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Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper.
Feature
A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted.
The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacement
at the end of sewing comes off.
Application
Basting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S),
blind stitch, And closing of bag opening.
Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch
Stitch formation:
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B: Needle comes off the cloth and the
cloth is fed. Looper rotates and removes
the thread which the looper caught
before while pulling in the needle
thread. Needle bar continues going up
and needle thread take-up lever lifts the
thread.
We get class 100 stitches from SNCS, blind stitch machine etc.
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Class 101 One Thread Basting, or light construction
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A: Needle is fixed to upper needle bar, and
left-hand and right-hand loopers draw and
retain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needle
comes down.
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E: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth.
Lower looper further pulls in the thread
downward.
Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbin hook thread.
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Feature
Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Every
stitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrong
sides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins plural
pieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained by
rotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case.
Application
General sewing (DDL-5550N, DDL-5700-7, DLU-5490N-7, DLN-5410N-7), Shirring (DLU-5494N-7),
2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative stitch,
Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25),
Pockect sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D)
Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch
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C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling in
upper thread, around the periphery of
bobbin case containing lower thread set
in inner hook. Thread take-up lever
supplies upper thread which is
necessary to rotate around inner hook.
(Suppose that inner hook is a human
being, and it looks like doing rope-
skipping.)
2 Semi-rotary hook
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A: Blade point of semi-rotary hook
catches loop-shaped upper thread.
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D: Stitch is formed when the upper
thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is
fed at the end. To be continued to a : .
Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread
Two
Class 301 Seaming Multiple Plies
Threads
Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooper
threads.
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Feature
Upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other like
a chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those of
lockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously for a
long time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are full
of elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Defect,
when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed.
Application
General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc.
Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600)
Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch
Stitch formation
A: Needle thread comes off looper and
is tightened. Then, looper scoops
needle thread at the position where
needle slightly goes up from its lowest
position.
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C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highest D: Needle comes down and the needle tip
dead point and looper is in the most advanced scoops looper thread. Looper performs elliptic
state, and the final tightening of needle motion. Then, stitch formation is continued to
thread is performed.
Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread
Multi-thread over Edge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads.
Feature
In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looper
thread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, and
the stitches look like knitted.
This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can expand following the
expansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely expanded
(knit or the like).
Application
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Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-
397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO-
3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914)
Extra: Compound stitching
Feature
This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chain
stitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine".
(MO-3916)
Application
General run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc.
Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock
Stitch formation
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C: Cloth is fed.
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F: Needle thread which is before one
stitch is tightened at the lower dead
point of needle.
Stitch formation is continued to A.
Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread
Class Two
One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging
502 Thread
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Class Four True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good
515 Thread Stretch for Woven and Knits
600Class Stitches
Stitch formation
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A: Lower looper scoops needle thread
loop,
and simultaneously upper decorative
looper scoops upper decorative thread.
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C: Needles further come down and
scoop lower looper thread. And, two
right-hand
needles enter in between the respective
needle threads as shown in the
illustration.
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Class 607 Six Thread Wide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams
SEAM:
Superimposed Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Each Other.
Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
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CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
1 or 2
d or Class 400
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CLASS-1 Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300
1
l , or Class 400
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CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
1 or 2
s or Class 400
Page 21 of 58
CLASS-1 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
2
y 300 , or Class 400
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Seaming two plies with using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-1
2 300 , or Class 400
ae
known as "French Seam"
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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
2
al 300 , or Class 400
Page 24 of 58
CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
3
ar 300 , or Class 400
Page 25 of 58
CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
2
ax 300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
bd 300 , or Class 400
Lapped Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are SuperimpClass-5 ed and/or Folded on Each Other
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Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
Page 28 of 58
Seaming Three plies with finished edges
CLASS-2 where two plies lay in one direction (Yoke
1 or 2
e stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
400
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Seaming two plies with finished edges and
CLASS-2
2 interfacing (simple Shirt Placket) using
m
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-2 t 2
300 , or Class 400
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Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-2 z 3
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
af 300 , or Class 400
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Seaming three plies as a placket with
CLASS-2
2 interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
am
Class 400
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Seaming two plies with seam tape using
CLASS-2
2 Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and
at
two rows of ribbon or tape
Page 35 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
4
bb 300 , or Class 400
>
Page 36 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
bh 300 , or Class 400
Page 37 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
3
bo 300 , or Class 400
Page 38 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
2
bt 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape
Page 39 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
by 300 , or Class 400
Page 40 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
3
cd 300 , or Class 400
Page 41 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
3
cj 300 , or Class 400
Page 42 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
4
co 300 , or Class 400
Page 43 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
ct 300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 Seaming seven plies using Class 100 , Class
2
cz 300 , or Class 400
Bound Seams
Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of Fabric
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Right Classick and select
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram
Page 46 of 58
CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class
2
e 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
CLASS-3 l 4
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
BClass-1 2
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
Flat Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Edges
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CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
2
b 602Class, or 603Class
Ornamental/Decorative Seam
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Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
Page 51 of 58
CLASS-5 Side Tuck Stitching using 101Class,
1
e 301Class, or 401Class stitch
Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
Page 52 of 58
CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
a 300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
2
g 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
2 Finishing one ply using Class 400
h
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Finishing two plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
n
Example; Belt Make
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Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
u
"Spagetti Strap"
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CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
aa 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
2 Finishing one ply using 602Class
ab
CLASS-6
1 Finishing one ply using Class 500
ae
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CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then
3
ag 602Class
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