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Stitch:

Kind of the stitch


Classification of stitch as BSI:

Class Name of Stitch Available subclass Created Machine


Class100 Chain stitch 7 and each class is SNCS, Blind Stitch
subdivided Machine.
Class200 Hand stitch 13 Number of
subdivided classes is
88.
Class 300 Lockstitch 27 in total. SNLS, 2NLS, Bar
tuck machine.
Class 400 Multi needle chain stitch 17 in total. Kansai Machine,
2NCS
Class 500 Over-edge chain stitch 15 in total. 3T, 4T, 5T over lock
machine.
Class 600 Covering chain 9 in total. Flat lock machine.

Class 100 Stitches

Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper.
 Feature
A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted.
The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacement
at the end of sewing comes off.

 Application
Basting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S),
blind stitch, And closing of bag opening.

 Example of Stitch formation

Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch

 Stitch formation:

A: Needle thread slacks at the position


where needle slightly goes up from its
lowest position, and looper catches the
needle thread which has become like a Needle
loop.
Also, the needle enters the circle of
needle thread which is widened by the
looper. Looper

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B: Needle comes off the cloth and the
cloth is fed. Looper rotates and removes
the thread which the looper caught
before while pulling in the needle
thread. Needle bar continues going up
and needle thread take-up lever lifts the
thread.

C: Looper continues rotating and pulls


in the thread in the center of the looper
and thread take-up lever tightens the
thread which the looper removed
before.

D: Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is


formed. Needle penetrates the cloth to
continue to next stitch, A.

We get class 100 stitches from SNCS, blind stitch machine etc.

 Sub Classes of Class 100 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

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Class 101 One Thread Basting, or light construction

Class 103 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 104 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming

Class 200 Stitches

Single thread hand sewed stitches using one needle thread.


 Feature
Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitch
or every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the same
position of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in thread
breakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looks
broken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited.
 Application
Decorative stitch of suits or like, kimono (Japanese national dress), Button sewing of coats, suits,
etc.
 Example of stitch formation

Class 200 Hand Stitch


 Stitch Formation:

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A: Needle is fixed to upper needle bar, and
left-hand and right-hand loopers draw and
retain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needle
comes down.

B: Needle penetrates the cloth and is


delivered to the lower needle bar. The right-
hand looper returns to its home place.

C: Lower looper catches the thread loop at


the position where the lower needle bar
slightly goes up from its lowest position.

D: Lower looper draws out thread which


enters under the cloth one stitch before from
the above left-hand looper. Simultaneously
the cloth is fed.

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E: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth.
Lower looper further pulls in the thread
downward.

F: Needle penetrates the cloth, and is


delivered to the upper needle bar and goes
up. Thread is wiped out by the lower looper.
Next, the above left-hand and right-hand
loopers catch the thread to continue to A.

 Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs

Class 205 One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching

Class 300 Stitches

Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbin hook thread.

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 Feature
Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Every
stitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrong
sides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins plural
pieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained by
rotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case.
 Application
General sewing (DDL-5550N, DDL-5700-7, DLU-5490N-7, DLN-5410N-7), Shirring (DLU-5494N-7),
2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative stitch,
Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25),
Pockect sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D)
 Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch

1-needle lockstitch 1-needle lockstitch zigzag


stitch

A: Upper thread slacks at the position


where the needle slightly goes up from
its lowest position, and blade point of
outer hook catches the loop-shaped
upper thread and pulls in the upper
thread.

B: Upper thread which is pulled in by


the blade point of outer hook is
separated at the inner hook thread
separating portion so that the upper
thread on the needle side is separated
to the rear side of inner hook and the
upper thread on cloth side is separated
to the right side of inner hook.

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C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling in
upper thread, around the periphery of
bobbin case containing lower thread set
in inner hook. Thread take-up lever
supplies upper thread which is
necessary to rotate around inner hook.
(Suppose that inner hook is a human
being, and it looks like doing rope-
skipping.)

D: Immediately after upper thread has


rotated around inner hook, thread
take-up lever lifts upper thread and the
upper thread is interlaced with the lower

E: Stitch is formed when the upper


thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is
fed at the end. Next, needle comes
down and penetrates cloth to continue
to A: .

2 Semi-rotary hook

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A: Blade point of semi-rotary hook
catches loop-shaped upper thread.

D: Upper thread rotates around the


periphery of bobbin case by rotation of
the hook.

C: After 1/2 rotation of the hook, upper


thread is lifted by thread take-up lever
and is interlaced with lower thread.

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D: Stitch is formed when the upper
thread lifts the lower thread and cloth is
fed at the end. To be continued to a : .

 Sub Classes of Class 300 Stitch are given below:

Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread

Two
Class 301 Seaming Multiple Plies
Threads

Class 304 Two Thread Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch

Class 306 Two Thread Blind Stitch

Two "Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitch


Class 315
Threads with more stretch

Class 400 Stitches

Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooper
threads.

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 Feature
Upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other like
a chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those of
lockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously for a
long time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are full
of elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Defect,
when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed.
 Application
General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc.
Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600)
 Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch

 Stitch formation
A: Needle thread comes off looper and
is tightened. Then, looper scoops
needle thread at the position where
needle slightly goes up from its lowest
position.

B: Needle continues to go up and


looper thread comes off needle. Looper
advances in the state that it has
scooped needle thread.

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C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highest D: Needle comes down and the needle tip
dead point and looper is in the most advanced scoops looper thread. Looper performs elliptic
state, and the final tightening of needle motion. Then, stitch formation is continued to
thread is performed.

 Sub Classes of Class 400 Stitch are given below:

Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread

Seaming Multiple Plies with moderate


Class 401 Two Threads
stretch

Three "Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater)


Class 406
Threads stretch chain stitch

Class 500 Stitches

Multi-thread over Edge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads.
 Feature
In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looper
thread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, and
the stitches look like knitted.
This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can expand following the
expansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely expanded
(knit or the like).
 Application

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Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-
397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO-
3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914)
 Extra: Compound stitching
 Feature
This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chain
stitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine".
(MO-3916)
 Application
General run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc.
 Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock

 Stitch formation

A: Lower looper scoops needle thread


loop.

B: Upper looper thread comes off needle


and upper looper scoops lower looper
thread.

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C: Cloth is fed.

D: Needle tip scoops upper looper


thread.

E: Lower looper thread which is caught


on upper looper comes off. Then, needle
thread which is caught on lower looper
comes off.

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F: Needle thread which is before one
stitch is tightened at the lower dead
point of needle.
Stitch formation is continued to A.

 Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Stitch No. of
Diagram Typical Uses
Class Thread

Class Two
One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging
502 Thread

Class Two Over edge stitch for Serging with Class-1


503 Thread over on Edge of Fabric

Class Three Over edge stitch for Serging and Light


504 Thread Seaming

Class Four Make Safety Stitch for Seaming with wide


512 Thread bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

Class Four Over edge Stitch for Seaming with wide


514 Thread bite and Greater Stretch for Knits

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Class Four True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good
515 Thread Stretch for Woven and Knits

Class Five True Safety Stitch for Seaming with Good


516 Thread Stretch for Woven and Knits

600Class Stitches

Multi-Thread Covering stitches.


 Feature
There are two or more needle threads and decorative threads on both the right and wrong sides of
cloth (generally, upper decorative thread is attached to 2-needle or 3-needle double chain stitch).
The stitch is full of elasticity and looks nice.
 Application
Hemming (MFC-7605/AH-1) Decorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc.
 Example of stitch formation
JIS mark 605 ... 3-needle covering chainstitch JIS mark 602 ... 2-needle covering chain stitch

 Stitch formation

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A: Lower looper scoops needle thread
loop,
and simultaneously upper decorative
looper scoops upper decorative thread.

B: Cloth is fed and only right-hand


needle is positioned in the outside of
decorative thread.
Two left-hand needles come down and
scoop upper decorative thread.

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C: Needles further come down and
scoop lower looper thread. And, two
right-hand
needles enter in between the respective
needle threads as shown in the
illustration.

D: Needle thread comes off lower looper


and needle comes down in its lowest
position. Lower looper and upper
decorative looper are in the most
retracted positions. Stitch formation is
continued to A .

 Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:

Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses

Class 602 Four Thread Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits

Class 605 Five Thread Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

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Class 607 Six Thread Wide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams

SEAM:

Seam: Seam is a group of stitch.

Superimposed Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Each Other.

Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,


1 or 2
a Class 400 , or Class 500

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies with one edge folded using


1 or 2
b Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies with a finished edge Class


1 or 2
c 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
1 or 2
d or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies with finished edge in two


2
e steps using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies


3
f using Class 400 , Class 500 , or Class 500

Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies


CLASS-1
2 Class 100 , Class 300 ,or Class 400 AND
h
103Class

Seaming three plies Raw edge finish where


CLASS-1
1 or 2 center ply may be ribbon using Class 100 , Class
j
300 , or Class 400

Seaming three plies where center ply may be


CLASS-1
1 folded edge finish using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
k
or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class 300
1
l , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Joining two Plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or


2
m Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming of two plies folded to one face using


1 or 2
n Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,


1 or 2
p or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
q 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,


1
r or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
1 or 2
s or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,


2
t or Class 400

CLASS-1 Edge Seam with Third ply as tape using Class


2
u 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Internal Seaming of two plies using Class 100 ,


1 or 2
v Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies with edges folded using Class


2
w 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
x 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
2
y 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Butt Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


3
z 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,


1 or 2
aa or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ab 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ac 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ad 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming two plies with using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-1
2 300 , or Class 400
ae
known as "French Seam"

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
af 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ag 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ah 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
aj 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ak 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
2
al 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
am 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
an 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ao 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ap 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
aq 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
3
ar 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


4
as 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
at 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
au 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
av 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
aw 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
2
ax 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ay 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
az 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ba 300 , or Class 400 AND 2xClass 500

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bb 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
bc 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
bd 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


2
be 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bf 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bg 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-1 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bh 300 , or Class 400

Lapped Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are SuperimpClass-5 ed and/or Folded on Each Other

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Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count

CLASS-2 Overlap seam of two plies at edges using


1 or 2
a Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Overlap seam of two plies with one edge


CLASS-2
1 or 2 folded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
b
400

Flat Felled Seam using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-2 c 1, 2 or 3 300 , or Class 400

Seaming of two plies where one ply is folded


CLASS-2
1 or 2 and set in the middle of the other using
d
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming Three plies with finished edges
CLASS-2 where two plies lay in one direction (Yoke
1 or 2
e stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
400

Seaming Three plies with finished edges


where two plies lay in one direction (Yoke
CLASS-2 f 1
stitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
400

Seaming three plies with finished edges


CLASS-2
2 (Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300 ,or
g
Class 400

Seaming three plies with finished edges and


CLASS-2 j 2 interfacing (Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class
300 ,or Class 400

Seaming two plies with finished edges


CLASS-2
2 (simple Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class
k
300 ,or Class 400

Seaming three plies with finished edges


CLASS-2 l 2
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming two plies with finished edges and
CLASS-2
2 interfacing (simple Shirt Placket) using
m
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Two plies folded and bound using Class


1 or 2
n 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
p 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
q 300 , or Class 400

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-2 r 2
300 , or Class 400

Seaming two plies in two steps using Class


CLASS-1 2
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-2 t 2
300 , or Class 400

Seaming three plies where one binds the


CLASS-2
2 other two behind the face Class 100 , Class
u
300 , or Class 400

Seaming two plies where face binds the


CLASS-2
1 or 2 second ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
v
Class 400

Seaming four plies where one ply wraps


CLASS-2 around two facing plies, bound to another
4
w ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies with raw edges using


2
x Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies with edges using Class


2
y 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-2 z 3
300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies with raw edges using


3
aa Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies with using Class 100 ,


3
ab Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies bound with raw edges


2
ac using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies bound with raw edges


2+
ad using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-2
2 300 , or Class 400
ae
"Stitched Pleat"

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CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
af 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ag 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ah 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
aj 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ak 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies as a placket using Class


2
al 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming three plies as a placket with
CLASS-2
2 interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
am
Class 400

Seaming two plies as a placket with


CLASS-2
2 interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
an
Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ap 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
aq 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ar 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
as 300 , or Class 400

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Seaming two plies with seam tape using
CLASS-2
2 Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 and
at
two rows of ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
au 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


4
av 300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


3
aw 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


4
ay 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies with raw edges using


4
az Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
4
bb 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bc 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bd 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class


2
be 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bf 300 , or Class 400

>

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
bg 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
bh 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
bj 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bk 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bl 300 , or Class 400

Seaming two plies using two of Class 100 ,


CLASS-2 Class 300 ,
3
bm or Class 400 and one Class 500 stitch
Sometimes known as "Make felling"

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bn 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
3
bo 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bp 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bq 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
br 300 , or Class 400

Seaming four plies with raw edges using


CLASS-2
1 or 2 Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
Class-3
w/ribbon or tape

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CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
2
bt 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
bu 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bv 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bw 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bx 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
by 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


3
bz 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ca 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming five plies using Class 100 , Class


2
cb 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
cc 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
3
cd 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ce 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
cf 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies in using Class 100 ,


2
cg Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
ch 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
3
cj 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
ck 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
cm 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies 1using Class 100 ,


3
cn Class 300 , or Class 400

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CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
4
co 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


4
cp 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


4
cq 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


4
cr 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
cs 300 , or Class 400

Page 43 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
2
ct 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
cu 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


3
cw 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
cx 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


3
cy 300 , or Class 400 with ribbon

Page 44 of 58
CLASS-2 Seaming seven plies using Class 100 , Class
2
cz 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
da 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


2
db 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class


2
dd 300 , or Class 400 with interlining

CLASS-2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class


3
do 300 , or Class 400

Bound Seams

Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of Fabric

Page 45 of 58
Right Classick and select
Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


1 or 2
a 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


1 or 2
b 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


1 or 2
c 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class


2
d 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 46 of 58
CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class
2
e 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


CLASS-3 f 2
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


2
g 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class


3
h 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


CLASS-3 j 2
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


1 or 2
k 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 47 of 58
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
CLASS-3 l 4
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


3
m 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


4
n 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


2
p 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of two plies using Class


3
q 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class


3
r 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Page 48 of 58
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
BClass-1 2
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400

Flat Seams

Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Edges

Right Classick &


Seam Needle
Save to Download Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count
the Diagram

CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using


4
a 606Class, or 607Class

Page 49 of 58
CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
2
b 602Class, or 603Class

CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using


2
c 602Class, or 603Class

Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class,


CLASS-4
4 then Class 300 , or Class 400 to join ribbon or
d
tape

CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using


2
e 602Class, or 603Class with ribbon or tape

CLASS-4 Covering stitch Seaming two plies using


2
f 602Class, or 603Class

Ornamental/Decorative Seam

Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of Fabric

Page 50 of 58
Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count

CLASS-5 Decorative Stitching using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
a 300 , Class 400 or 600Class

Decorative Stitching using cording


CLASS-5
1 or 2 Sometimes called "Pin-tuck" with Cording
b
Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch

Decorative Stitching sometimes called "Pin-


CLASS-5
1 or 2 tuck"
c
Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch

Tuck stitching with Cording and Backer


CLASS-5
2 using dual 101Class, 301Class, or 401Class
d
stitch

Page 51 of 58
CLASS-5 Side Tuck Stitching using 101Class,
1
e 301Class, or 401Class stitch

"Stitch-Crease" stitching using 301Class


CLASS-5
1 stitch - AClass-2 o called "Pin-Tuck"
f
may be repeated

CLASS-5 Self-Stripe Trim using Class 100 , Class 300


3
g , or Class 400 stitch

CLASS-5 Piping Trim using Class 100 , Class 300 , or


1
h Class 400 stitch

Edge Netening /Edge Finish Seam

Fabric Edge is finished with Stitching

Seam Needle
Seam Diagram Typical Uses and Stitch Types
Class Count

Page 52 of 58
CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
a 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
b 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1
c 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 500


1 or 2
d "Serging"

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 500


1 or 2
e "Serging" Variation

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6 f 1 or 2
300 ,Class 400 or 600Class

Page 53 of 58
CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
2
g 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6
2 Finishing one ply using Class 400
h

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6 j 1 or 2
300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 ,Class


2
k 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 l 2 Finishing one ply using Class 400

Finishing one ply using 103Class or


CLASS-6
1 306Class
m
Blind stitch Hem

Page 54 of 58
Finishing two plies using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
n
Example; Belt Make

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6
1 or 2 300 , or Class 400
p
Example; Belt Make

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
q
Reinforced Hem with Interlining

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
r
Reinforced Hem with Interlining

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
s
Example; Belt Make

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


2
t 300 , or Class 400

Page 55 of 58
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
CLASS-6
2 300 , or Class 400
u
"Spagetti Strap"

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


2
v 300 , or Class 400 and interlining

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
w 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
x 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
y 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
z 300 , or Class 400

Page 56 of 58
CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
1 or 2
aa 300 , or Class 400

CLASS-6
2 Finishing one ply using 602Class
ab

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6 300 , or Class 400
2
ac with interlining
Make Belt

Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


CLASS-6 300 , or Class 400
2
ad with interlining
Make Belt

CLASS-6
1 Finishing one ply using Class 500
ae

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then


3
af 602Class

Page 57 of 58
CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then
3
ag 602Class

CLASS-6 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class


1 or 2
ah 300 , or Class 400

Page 58 of 58

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