04-06 T1 VW Touareg Aftermarket HID Headlight (Bulb, Igniter, Ballast)

Install over Current HID System

Tools Required: Ballast/Ingiter/Bulb Kit, Adapter Cable, Wire Splice, Wrench
Time Required: 1-2 Hours
Bulb and Ballast Temperatures are only recommended. Use whatever you prefer.

1. Make sure the lights are not on and the key is out of the ignition.

2. Remove headlight assembly from vehicle. Use hex tool from trunk kit to lower the locking
bar. See removal instructions below. To ensure locking you will hear an audible snap
during the reinstall.

3. (OPTIONAL) Verify the condition of the insulation for the internal wiring. Take a look very
closely at those wires; most of them have brown, white or black insulation. If you see them
peeling off then that is causing the short/burn out of the lights. The insulation in the internal
wiring can be found peeling off from all the assembly wires (inside).

4. (OPTIONAL) Remove the internal wiring harness (some difficulty). Re-insulated the wiring
harness with electrical tape one wire at a time.

5. (OPTIONAL) Re-install the wiring harness. Leave the original ballast to control the leveling
feature and the bi-xenon flapper. Leave the three pin silver wire.

6. Buy an after market HID kit: 2-D2S bulbs (D2S not D1S), 2 ballast, 2 igniters and
associated wiring from DDM tuning. Along with D2S adaptor cables.
http://www.ddmtuning.com/
7. Install the new bulbs into the adapter cable. Seat the bulb into the OEM housing

New Bulb and Adapter Fit into OEM Housing

8. Run the adapter cable 2-wires out from the assembly out from the top rubber disk. Cut a
small channel for the wires to sit in, also cut a small slit in the rubber cap. Connect these
two wires to the igniter assembly.

Run Wires to Igniter out of Wires with Cap on Headlight Assembly

Circular Opening

9. Splice the power to the ballast from pin #2 harness behind the assembly bucket. Crimp a
terminal on the end of the ground wire and attach to the bolt located inboard of the assembly
bucket. Pin #2, #3 and #5 all have constant power. Pin #2 has the heaviest gage and is the
same wire powers the OEM ballast. Place electrical tape around the splice to prevent
corrosion.

New Wiring Diagram Underside of Modified Headlight Assembly

10. Placed the slim ballast on top of the air cleaner(s) housing with a ziptie and connected the 2
wires. Slip the headlight and the igniter through the hex bolt side of the housing.

FAQ:

1) Ballast/bulb kit used in the above install?

55W ballast (35W is fine too),
6000K, D2S bulbs with D2S adapter Cables (pair) Choose your preferred bulb temperature.

2) When you spliced into wire #2, did you disconnect the battery?
No because I used a Crimp style splicer. Also, if you check for current to the #2 wire it's only
hot when the ignition is ON. If the Ignition is OFF there is no current. I also recommend
removing the key and making sure the light switch is completely OFF.

3) The D2S bulb fits into the current housing?

Yes, but the D2S adapter Cables make the overall bulb housing just a little bigger than the
D1S (OEM)...you can still use the same spring wire retainer but it is best only to loop one of
the spring wires over the back of the D2S bulb instead of the two spring wires...you can see a
picture of this in my set up.

4) The silver harness that plugged into the old bulb is still live....You covered the end with
electrical tape?
Correct, the reason for doing this is because the leveling feature still works. I notice that if I
remove that silver harness the leveling feature does not work. For safety, I put black
electrical tape on the end. Even without the tape it would be difficult to short out since the hot
leads are covered within the housing. Leave the OEM ballast installed for sealing purposes
and for the leveling feature.

5) When you reinsulated the wiring, was this the main wire from the ballast to the bulb, or
was it any wires inside of the housing?
My internal wiring was peeling off inside the entire housing. The main wire harness that
contains the twelve (12 pins) was peeling inside the headlight unit/housing. The silver wire
that goes from the bulb to the ballast (3 wires only) was fine.

6) What about bulb warning?

You will have a bulb warning icon on your cockpit display but that you can cancel (turn off)
with vag-com just like you would cancel (turn off) an engine light or any other warning display
7) How did you setup the HID fog lights?
Simple plug and play kit from DDM. Only use a 35W due to heat. I got the 4500K H11 bulbs
and love them.

How do I remove the fog bulbs?

Simple, pull off the plastic cover around the fog lights with your hand/hook and also pull the
plastic cover for the tow hocks. Then simply remove the Phillips screws (maybe 2 or 3 don't
remember, do not remove the single hex screw as that is for adjusting and aiming the fog
lights) ... remove and replace the bulb and secure the slim ballast behind the fog light. I just
placed the ballast behind the fog lamps housings and they are fine there. They are zip tie in
place. NOTE: make sure the rubber O-ring around the bulbs is located in the correct slot
around the bulbs. My bulbs had that O-ring located incorrectly and the bulbs were very
difficult to twist in place until I realized the O-rings were in the wrong position. I simply moved
the O-ring to the correct position and the bulbs twisted nicely into place.