Open Dialogue on Fashion Retail

Philips Lighting Workbook

Content
3 The dialogue is now Key notes by Filip jan Depauw 4 he bright future of retail shopping T New trends will determine the shopping experience by Marian Salzman 10 nspiring concepts create consumer desire I uccessful lighting and interior designs contribute S to increased sales 14 isionary proposals: V The enormous potential of lighting moods and displays 4 he story continues once the store closes 2 T An interview with Herman Konings about the new challenges in the retail area by Anneke Bokern 8 How to achieve operational efficiency 2 esign and lighting solutions need to be adaptable and D flexible. A commitment to further sustainability 32 isionary proposals: V New form-factors and control tools for customized lighting solutions 8 ashion People Light 3 F ignificant energy savings, intelligent control options and S spectacular colour plays open up new worlds in the fashion retail sector. LEDs drive inspirational store designs 4 uture scenarios: 4 F When light and material become one New technologies and ideas for future lighting 0 mpressions from the workshops 5 I napshots, trends and inspirations from the workshops S held in Hong Kong, New York and London 53 Participants 4 Imprint 5

Content

The dialogue is now

Philips Lighting
As a global company, Philips has taken on the task of improving peoples health and lives with meaningful innovations. Our aim is to develop, in collaboration with retail experts, the right solutions for people and brands.
We believe retail lighting is a source of empowerment; when used to its fullest potential, it makes merchandise, brands and business shine. Flexible, efficient, high-quality light, powered by enabling technologies, helps retailers communicate their identities in a way that is healthy for their business, relevant to their consumers and it maximizes the shopping experience. Lighting illuminates and shows the way. It is a true sales tool that makes the merchandise stand out and shine. And it can do so much more. We believe lighting can enhance form and function and improve safety and security while creating flexible spaces that adapt to the task at hand. And it helps companies to achieve sustainability goals that communicate underpin their corporate responsibility.

The retail lighting industry is undergoing a remarkable transformation in which Philips plays an active and leading role.
To detect, understand and act upon regional and global retail trends Philips is in a constant dialogue with experts around the globe. Revenue enhancement, a greater shopping experience, a higher operational efficiency or just simplification are some of the high-level themes covered. Together with architects, lighting designers and retail specialists, we develop a basis for discussion and new approaches. Our fascinating technology development will enable some of these routes and bring them to life. This workbook captures ideas and results from three workshops held in London, Hong Kong and New York. We want to share them with you and so trigger new open dialogues that will drive relevant and innovative retail lighting solutions.

The time is now, let us redefine retail lighting together

Filip jan Depauw Global Sr Director Retail

The dialogue is now

The bright future of retail shopping

Marian Salzman
Global and local structures, smartphone-facilities and augmented-reality-tools: According to Marian Salzman, trend scout and social media expert, new technologies will create new retail narratives. Taking advantage of the hybrid of virtual and real-world elements, stores need an intelligent, progressive approach to design that enables future strategies and changes.
As the economic clouds clear, we can see a bit of retails future. Social media and a return to local community are putting retail stores in a strange but exciting place. Whats needed now is an intelligent approach to retail that is supremely mindful of the customer, maybe even to a greater extent than a stores product. The rise of consumer social consciousness, the increasing importance of real-time communications, the blurring of public spaces and the spread of social media into all aspects of life are wrenching much-needed change and innovation into retail. Here are some trends defining retails bright future. Staying ahead of them will increase profits and strengthen brand equity. Retail operators should look to a store design (and operation) built on modular building blocks. The worlds most advanced and complex kind of design high-tech navy ship construction has already reaped the benefits of modular design and is able to update complex space without wholesale renovation. Stores will move in the same direction. Based on blocks that can be moved and built with changeable LED panels that allow for instant redesign, a stores concept will shift from permanent glass and drywall to a collection of movable brand features.

The corner store

Retail stores have long offered a theorized version of the average persons desired shopping experience. But in a consumer world that rejects the notion of human median, and is seeing the rise of hyperlocalization, this doesnt fly anymore. Different people dont just buy different things; they see differently, smell differently and generally perceive differently. Designing a store as well as a product, a campaign and customer service protocols for a particular group is no longer a choice but a necessity. Lighting is one key to highlighting a stores visual cues created for its customers. The aesthetic flexibility of LED will help modulate a stores signage and interior once executives target an audience for each outlets unique shopping experience.

Retail is on the move

Pop-up is a recent trend thats considered a tactic for beating a sour economy. But even that idea has been getting a new twist: Stores can be physically moving. Theres an aesthetic and values-based shift that demands flexibility in stores. As crossover marketing between sectors becomes more necessity than option, and as social values are paramount in all parts of public life, stores must be prepared to transform themselves at a moments notice. They have to be prepared to morph and to facilitate new campaigns, rather than being impediments to them.

The bright future of retail shopping

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Augmented reality
At one time, we were all wondering if life would be conducted through virtual reality goggles (in virtual worlds such as Second Life, it sometimes is). But the trend is pointing to a hybrid of virtual and real-world elements. Augmented reality is a twoway street; shopping online is more store-like, but shopping in-store must be more Web-like. Among the changes it will bring to stores: access points to online information and products that can communicate interactively. To take advantage, stores need an intelligent, progressive approach to design, much in the same way that the Web 2.0 site must be flexible enough to adopt evolving media types and features. Clothing retailer Zara is well known for its fast production cycle, its eschewing of fashions traditional seasons and its scarcity-creating strategies. Zaras approach is bold, especially in fashion. But as retailers in all sectors are catering to various demographics simultaneously, as well as keeping current with trends and new technologies, the Zara Effect is taking hold across retail. The Bright Future: At bazaar-type markets, long ago and now, prices change throughout the day. Prices go up. Prices go down. In the near future, the pace of retail, as in the Zara Effect, coupled with the power of augmented reality will let individual stores float their prices. Prices could change daily, with micro-sales, even by the hour. A product skyrocketing in popularity could be instantly featured in all stores digital marketing displays, making sure each store can ride the wave before the product loses its luster with consumers. In short, a stores prices, offerings and marketing materials will change minute by minute, in response to real-time information and with the power of LED display, digital technology and augmented reality innovation.
The Corner Store Different areas and concepts for different customers. The Corner Store is the answer to differing customer needs, with lighting being one way of highlighting a stores visual cues to consumers.

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Exclusive

The Zara Effect Shoppers cannot be sure that something that has caught their eye will appear in the store again or can be found at another Zara store, even in the same city. On the other hand, they also know that everyone they meet will not be wearing it.
The Economist

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Glamour

Corner Store

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Sector blurring
What would a supermarket today be if it were devoid of a bank branch, Starbucks kiosk or iPoddispensing machine? It would be last year. Today, sector blurring is bringing everything together. This has been enabled by other trends such as augmented reality and assessment of what a local consumer wants not just what a store offers. A balance between the local and foreign consumer will be achieved by store format. Products in stores must satisfy the needs of local customers, but the shopping experience must be novel enough to make a tourist want to participate (by buying).

Social media takes it all

Social media is the new face of retail. As brands become adept at using it, the mores imparted online must be matched and upheld in-store, reflecting the transparency and responsiveness of a brands Twitter stream and Facebook page. In practice, that means more people than in-store customers will see stores. Customers with cameras will be snapping shots and taking video. Stores must be prepared smartly organized and properly lit for these kinds of social media events. Nothing could be worse for a retail stores image than a dim, grainy user video that makes the store interior look like anything but a well-appointed shop.

Marian Salzman
is an American advertising and public relations executive. She is currently president of Euro RSCG Worldwide PR North America as well as a member of the holding company and Euro RSCG Worldwides Executive Committee, with brand reputation oversight for the company and key executives globally. Born in New York City, she studied sociology at Brown University and the Harvard Graduate School of Arts and Science. Salzmans early career focused on the development of new research methodologies, from slumber parties for tweenagers to the creation of Cyberdialogue, to leveraging instant messaging and chat rooms for social research. Salzman was the first advertising professional to use online focus groups and is known as a social media expert today. She is the recipient of numerous international awards and the author of several books on future trends.

The total tie-in: Its not new technology. Its a new narrative.
None of these trends can be taken out of the context. As customers connect in stores, theyll create micro-trends as they announce their purchase in real time through their social networks, providing image-rich displays of their purchases by using augmented-reality kiosks in the store. Their socially networked friends like what they see and buy it. The item becomes more popular and within a day the store (even if its just that particular branch) receives a refresh of the item, a real-time adjustment in price based on intelligent analysis (not local guesswork) and a digital update of marketing materials to generate more sales.

The new retail narrative continues.

The bright future of retail shopping

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

For fashion retailers a constant dialogue with their consumers is fundamental for enhancing sales revenue. Clever lighting and interior design concepts can guide both this dialogue and the attention of the target audience. The design challenge of the future will be to create a changeable, multi-functional cosmos that transforms the store interior into a unique stage for encountering and experiencing the brand.

Online and offline virtual and real worlds: In times of increasing overlap between these areas, the creators of store interiors need to realign themselves, redefine their objectives, and identify clear strategies for the future. The added value of the real shopping world compared to virtual spaces remains: in the store the brand becomes a multi-layered world of experience that customers assimilate sensually and directly, whether they are in the changing room, drinking coffee, in the VIP room or looking at the store window. The impact of individual fashion items can be enhanced by skilfully designing the store interior as a multi-layered brand universe that asks to be touched and tried on, encourages consumers to spend time inside and arouses their curiosity. Shoppers immerse themselves in this way in a

glittering world of brand identity. Inside the store they experience moods and surprises that make their encounter with the brand unique and win them over. Consumers attention and well-being, i.e. their actual experiences inside the store, are therefore key design aspects for fashion retail stores. If the architecture and lighting design flexibly react to these challenges, they lay the basis for a constant dialogue with the target audience and contribute significantly to an increase in revenue. The trend of the past few years has shown how the shopping world can become an experience cosmos: pop-up or flagship stores transform sales areas into stages for encounters. They serve as ideal settings for individual items and the brand language, and react flexibly to the wishes and needs of customers. Twinkling ceiling lights and changing light moods lend an atmosphere to rooms and make entire collections sparkle in the best possible light. They generate radiant surprises and create a feel-good ambience that can be precisely controlled to attract shoppers. Flexible, software-controlled, LED-based lighting solutions transform fashion worlds into

seasonal worlds of experience and make use of a carefully targeted surprise factor that can react to marketing strategies. The possibilities of light-emitting diodes are far from being exhausted, however. They leave a great deal of scope for the future: How can lighting atmospheres be employed to increase consumers well-being to an even higher level? Which specific lighting solutions optimize the changing seasonal design scenarios determined by weather conditions and cultural factors? Which are the right tools for transporting the brand image from the inside to the street outside? How can the online shopping world be interwoven with the real world to form a single entity? Which lighting effects can be used to bridge stores closing times?

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

AIK, Yann Kersal

The future is now

Galeries Lafayette in Paris welcomes consumers to a serene and harmonious atmosphere that emphasises luxury. In cooperation with interior designer Bruno Moinard, French lighting designer Yann Kersal has created an undulating luminous sky of white clouds in which light and shade interplay with each other. The porcelain conch shells contain two eW Powercone light fittings in warm or cool white. Each conch shell consumes just 9W when generating the stunning lighting effect.

Abercrombie & Fitch is all about the atmosphere and the story, it is more like a club design, loud music, all the shoppers dancing. Its really about the brand, the story.
Ed Ng, ABConcept, Hong Kong

Creating confidence
A consumers decision to buy a product often depends on a preceding self-assuring look in the mirror. For this reason, Este Lauder and Philips Lighting have developed a vanity mirror for fitting rooms that generates surprising and inspiring lighting effects. Using a portable controller, customers can adjust the integrated diffuse front-lighting of the mirror. Creating different ambiances and simulating various moods, the lighting enables shoppers to properly see how a product looks on them. By selecting a preset lighting scene, the lights can be both natural and flattering. The vanity mirror therefore gives customers the opportunity to check future appearances and to imagine how they would look on different occasions.

The shopping experience needs to become more interactive and personalized. You need to surprise and engage the shopper.
Volker Katschinski, Dan Pearlman Markenarchitektur, Berlin

Inspiring moods
The Asia Paints flagship store in Mumbai invites consumers to use colour confidently, with hundreds of lights suspended in an arch on a series of pedestals, each reacting to their individual colour choice. Motion sensors hidden within each pedestal send a pulse of the selected colour up through the archway lights and across the faade. Together with architects Fitch from Singapore, Mumbai-based lighting designers Dolly & Anil Valia have created an entire interactive universe of stunning colour effects. IColor Flex SLX are embedded in the suspended disks at the entrance. Using red, blue and green LEDs, the motion sensors and the Light System Manager create constant colour shifts.

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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Visionary proposals
Controlled and adjustable mood lighting and displays hold enormous potential for the shopping world of tomorrow. Interactive tools, the possibilities of augmented reality, and social media will similarly provide important signals when it comes to the meaning and scope of these future lighting solutions.

Seasonal concepts
To create the right context for fashion, the store interior reflects different seasonal atmospheres. To present the summer collections, dynamic lighting projections on the walls and ceiling simulate beach life with brilliant sunshine, for example, whereas for the winter collections the system creates a cool ambience that includes wind and snow. There is no need to change the whole interior when seasonal projections can be used to merely change the atmosphere, creating a unique shopping experience.

Time of the day

The wellbeing of consumers depends on many factors that change according to the time of the day. With dynamic lighting moods, the store interior can stimulate natural biorhythms. The adaptable colours of LED panels in the lighting ceiling and walls are controlled by software that creates different moods for different times of the day. In order to create healthy ambiences, the colours and atmosphere change from morning to afternoon and in the evening hours.

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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Reinvention of the space

Lighting ceilings, walls and floors create specific pre-programmed moods for different occasions. Consumers will re-experience the store and be attracted by new colour ambiences that coincide with the different cultural settings or special occasions such as the winter or summer sale. The fully controlled lighting system creates a tailor-made environment that can be easily adjusted.

Simulating the weather

Imagine a thunderstorm or a sunny day each kind of weather corresponds to a different fashion collection. A computer-aided lighting system simulates those meteorological conditions, so that the ceiling and the walls of the store change accordingly. The interior reinforces the effect of a particular fashion collection with matching weather simulations.

The challenge in retail is to engage with the customer in a different way. You need to create an exclusive community that represents the lifestyle of the target group and therefore create a desire to belong.
Volker Katschinski, Dan Pearlman Markenarchitektur, Berlin

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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Augmented reality shopwindow

What about awakening consumers curiosity when the store is closed? When they stand outside at the window, an integrated touch screen enables them to highlight individual areas of the interior in combination with a virtual store experience. The augmented reality shopwindow expands the consumers brand experience during night hours.

Lighting that tells a story

Fashion items are more than products. They awaken dreams, drive the consumers imagination and tell stories according to the entire brand universe. The lighting atmosphere becomes the key design for those stories: different moods and colours tell the consumer more about the showcased fashion collection and set up a personal relationship with the brand. Lighting walls and spots on single items create a storytelling performance.

Discovery lighting
Temporary special lighting for single shelves can arouse consumers curiosity. If the shopper is standing next to a rack, the lighting effects put the spotlight on single fashion items in order to enhance the shopping adventure. Such lighting control turns the store interior into a place of adventure and discovery.

Rating display
Computer-aided LED displays offer real-time feedback on the popularity of individual fashion items to consumers, revealing the number sold. Displayed alongside temporary special offers, this can make the customers choice easier: Do I buy the less popular or more popular shirt, or the one being sold at the special offer price?

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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Individual retail store guidance

Online and real stores combine to provide coherent individual experiences: a smartphone app guides consumers through the store. They can easily find the items chosen online by following the guiding LED lines, which are integrated into the floor and activated individually. The system sets up a continuously updated dialogue that merges online and real-time by means of smart technologies and LEDs.

Providing a stage for consumers and fashion items They have this VIP Room, so they have a totally different atmosphere compared with the store area.
Andy Leung, Work Techt Corporation, Hong Kong Sensing tools can control the spotlighting on single fashion items and follow the customer around the store. Lighting bridges controlled by the sensors guide consumers in specific directions and to specially highlighted areas. They experience the brand universe as an individual journey of discovery that assigns them VIP status.

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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Magnetic light spots

Attached to the underside of a shelf, magnetic LED spots provide flexible highlighting. The adjustable spots illuminate the individual showcased accessories according to their number and individual location on the rack. Creating a brilliant effect on different fashion items with different colours, the magnetic spots illuminate the value and quality of the products.

The Retail space becomes multi-funtional. Lighting in combination with the interior can give different functions to the space. In the morning it is a coffee shop, during the day it is a store and in the evening in becomes a bar. Lighting can put people into the mood.
Lennart Wiechell, Schmidbuber + Partner Architektur und Corporate Design, Mchen/Berlin

Make me a star
When trying a new look, consumers get immediate feedback through social media. When they wear favourite fashion items on a special platform in the store, their appearance is rated and commented on by a wider community. Floodlights and spots create a catwalk effect. The store itself turns into a stage that transforms both consumers and individual fashion items into stars on a virtual global platform.

Lighting sensors
Imagine a shelf with an integrated sensor that reacts when merchandise is positioned in a certain location: LED spots that always display objects in optimal lighting, even if you change their position or insert new items.

Optical diffuser
With an optical diffuser that spreads the LED lighting source, the whole board of a shelf can be bathed in bright lighting instead of having light targeted on it. The beam shines in all directions, and the hidden light source showcases each item in a luminous surrounding.

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Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

Inspiring concepts create consumer desire

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The story continues once the store closes

Intail, pretail and storytailing are the retail trends of the future, says Herman Konings, owner of Antwerp-based trendwatching agency Pocket Marketing/nXt. While the members of the babyboomer generation seek experiences, their successors, the babybusters, are short on time and money. Augmented Reality can help retailers reach them.
Which current development do you think will have the biggest influence on retail design in the near future? Decreasing spare time. And Im not talking about the time you spend taking your kids to the dentist or painting the garden fence, but real time for yourself. In fact, compared to 25 years ago, the working population has seven hours less spare time per week. And what exactly do you mean by the new normal? First of all simple communication. Do you know umbrellatoday.com? Normally, if you want to know what the weather will be like in a particular city, you have to read a forecast and never get a straight answer. At umbrellatoday.com you type in Maastricht and get yes or no as reply. Thats why I call this the age of 0-1-2-3. 0 is the number of manuals a product should need, 1 is the number of buttons, 2 is the number of options at a time. Never offer 17 options at once to the consumer! There has to be a choice architecture, made up of decisions between two options at a time: left or right, up or down. 3 is the number of seconds it should take until a problem is solved. Which consequences does the new normal have for retail interiors? Retail interiors should also have a clear design. Choice architecture is important, and a clear structure. There also seems to be a trend towards less glossy aesthetics. Is that also the new normal? Yes, no frills. Lean, simple. In the 80s and 90s we had blingbling, everything was pimped and shiny and a bit over the top. Now theres a new sobriety. Its better to evoke a feeling of scarcity than abundance, because it suggests classiness. And the shopholder has to show respect for the customer whos pressed for time.

How have we ended up with less time? Today, 60% of the workforce are employed in the knowledge and service sectors. They attend training classes after work, take their computers home, check emails at the breakfast table and often live far away from their workplaces. Work-related time has increased considerably. But at the same time, retail surroundings confront us with four times more product references than in 1985. A yoghurt brand, for instance, can include plain yoghurt as well as cherry, strawberry and forest fruit flavours. That makes four product references on the yoghurt shelf.

So how can this concept be transferred to the retail world? Well, over the past few years all the best-selling and most-appreciated products in Western Europe have been 0-1-2-3-products. In 2003 there was the iPod, in 2004 Senseo, in 2005 Google, in 2006 TomTom, in 2007 the iPhone, in 2008 Barack Obama.

So we have more options because there are more product variations? Yes, exactly. And the funny thing is that the surface area of retail spaces has increased very little at the same time. Within the same field of vision, were presented with four times as many options as before, but have less time to choose. The result is choice paralysis, the inability to make a choice. Another new syndrome, closely related to choice paralysis, is continuous partial attention. People arent able to focus on anything anymore, because they dont have time. They have a constant splitscreen perspective. All this results in a need for what I call the new normal.

Barack Obama? Yes, because of his clear communication style and his approachability.

Which consumer groups are we talking about here? The new normal probably appeals to younger people, but possibly not so much to the babyboomers. Thats right, but do you know what the funny thing is? At the moment, the babyboomers are the ones with the money. Compared to someone born before 1945, they have 2.5 times more spending power per capita. Thats because they earned more, but also because they were the first generation with double incomes. Now theyre all retiring 50 million in Europe alone in the next ten years. They have 45 hours of spare time per week, theyre mobile and they dont want to be old. After all, they grew up with sex, drugs and rockn roll. So they go on holiday, but also to restaurants and shops, because they like to spend their money. Theyre the SKIgeneration: Spending their Kids Inheritance.

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digital aboriginals

flexistantialists

mediors

seniors

What does that mean for the following generation? Well, its not good news for the babybusters. They suffer from choice paralysis and have neither time nor money. Babybusters might have a better education, but not necessarily more spending power. For retailers that means theyre difficult to reach. They have no time and no money for funshopping. The babyboomers, in contrast, have lots of time and are looking for an experience. The retail sector could, for instance, react to this with mood lighting: psychedelic colours on weekdays for the babyboomers, and softer colours at the weekend, when the rest-seeking babybusters go shopping.

What role can new technologies such as Augmented Reality play in this context? Augmented Reality is going to be big. According to latest predictions, 80% of Western European adults will own a smartphone or tablet computer by 2015. Thats very important for the retail sector. With Augmented Reality, you can point your phone camera at an object and get information from the internet about it. This is where intail and pretail come into play. Pretail is when consumers can check at home what the new Ikea-sideboard would look like in their living room. In Sweden thats already possible. You put a webcam on the spot where the sideboard will stand, and the image appears on your computer.

Herman Konings
born 1964, is a professional trendwatcher and owner of Belgian trend and future research agency Pocket Marketing/nXT. He has a PhD degree in Theoretical Psychology from the Catholic University of Louvain (Belgium). In 1991 he founded Pocket Marketing and started focusing on social trends in presentations and seminars. After a few years it resulted in nXT, a think tank and guess imitating house for trends and forecasts. Apart from his own research and work, Herman Konings has reported to many international research agencies on trends and socio-cultural change.

millennium kids

generation slash-slash generation Gap

front-end boomers

protoboomers

silent generation

stoc generation

Babyboomers versus Babybusters While the members of the babyboomer generation seek experiences, the babybusters are short of time and money, says Herman Konings. He thinks the decrease of spare time

babyboomers

will be the main current development which will have the biggest influence on retail design in the near future. Work-related time has increased considerably, but at the same time, consumers are confronted with four times more product references than in 1985. Augmented Reality can help retailers to reach consumers.

Doesnt that make life even more complicated? Technology is getting more intuitive all the time, more 0-1-2-3. Intail also offers lots of possibilities. If retailers have limited display space, but many product references, they can present only a few basic references for the consumer to touch and feel, and leave the rest to the internet or Augmented Reality. Another important concept is storytailing. No matter how static a product is, customers want an experience. Shops have to come alive, offer workshops or performances. Retailers have to mobilize people via social networks, but once theyre in they should create an atmosphere with human warmth as its focus. A log-off feeling. Storytelling helps achieve this. As Marshall McLuhan said: The story continues once the book closes. You might also say: once the store closes. Interview: Anneke Bokern

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How to achieve operational efficiency

Stores must be flexible in order to be able to respond to trends, incorporate customers growing social awareness, and implement variable communication goals. LED technology not only saves energy but also provides clear benefits through its operational efficiency (e.g. maintenance and longevity).

Retail stores can change their appearance and the impact they have on customers by using modular elements and customizable lighting solutions. LED technology not only saves energy but also provides clear benefits through its operational efficiency. Pre-programmed light and colour scenarios can be easily controlled without prior knowledge, and programmed individually or in set sequences. The flexibility and durability of LEDs allows for a wide range of optional future usage possibilities. Spotlights or panels can be easily integrated into different spatial situations so that the light can be adapted in line with changing individual needs. In the event of renovations, alterations or relocations, new lighting systems are unnecessary, as the LED lighting elements can be transferred and adapted to the new store concepts. Straightforward installation also facilitates the conversion of conventional systems to the technology.

The use of LEDs can reduce energy consumption dramatically in day-to-day business. CO2 certificates and the cradle-to-cradle principle mean that light is becoming a symbol of a universal commitment to sustainability, something that is becoming increasingly important to customers. In recent years, green showing off has also become an increasingly visible trend in the fashion retail area. Lighting solutions can therefore serve to enhance the environmental credentials of a responsible fashion brand and provide evidence of its commitment in this respect. Sustainability is shown to mean more than just energy efficiency, drawing its relevance from the triad people, planet, profit, and linking these three categories with a key value that shapes the brand image.

The various aspects of operational efficiency interlock in the case of LED solutions: Lower energy consumption makes LEDs commercially profitable. They create optimal conditions for changing needs, and transform a store into a sustainable, responsible environment. The future of LED technology lies in developing further the range and versatility of its applications. Modules and plug-in systems enable tailor-made individual lighting solutions to be flexibly adapted and constantly reconfigured. Disposable luminaires enable a range of different applications which can be altered or extended on a modular basis in line with new spatial settings. New form factors and control mechanisms too enable complex perspectives that Philips Lighting has discussed together with lighting designers and architects at three international workshops. Far from being exhausted, the innovative potential of LEDs in relation to their operational efficiency is only now starting to be exploited.

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How to achieve operational efficiency

How to achieve operational efficiency

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Lighting example
With a dynamic lighting facade that dazzles in different colours, the Romantic Life-store in Hanghzhou sets clear standards in fashion retail design. The concept of Sako Design Studio includes different tools for attracting customers and keeping them inside the store as long as possible lighting leads the way to the design of the brand. Whereas the outside of the store is illuminated with AmbiScene, iColor Cove QLX and iplayer3 give the interior its characteristic fashionable atmosphere.

Variety and choice these are key things that relate not only to lighting but also to the fashion industry
Terry Waterhouse
Mauritz Design

Energy reduction
The lighting scheme in Dunnes department store in Ireland delivers high energy savings. Moreover, the installation includes a flexible dimming and switching control option that enables customers to have a completely new shopping experience. The SceneOn System offers a large variety of tones and colours, with its modular set-up allowing many different types of light sources to be integrated in a general or specific way. If Rotaris instead of conventional downlighters are used, the Light Master system can create individual scenarios, with the lighting effects in each case altered to suit the time of day and season or even the numbers of shoppers in the store.

How lighting can generate profits

Fashion designer Philipp Plein is known for his extraordinary luxury creations. Munich-based architects Mauritz Design have reinforced this image with a minimalist interior for his Vienna flagship store. It gives customers a clear idea of the brand and simultaneously sets the benchmark in terms of sustainability. In line with the concept of disclaiming ornaments, the atmosphere of the retail store is created by the lightings impact on the space. Becoming part of this cool ambience, customers are induced into concentrating fully on the fashion items. In the cool white setting, individual valuable fashion items are highlighted using LED spotlights with a service life of 50,000 hours. Integrated into the shelves, eW Profile Powercores spread smooth white light onto the showcased accessories and also save energy.

Good lighting contributes significantly to the atmosphere I want to create. I expect LED technology to offer me more options

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Visionary proposals
Future lighting will give retailers more options and increase operational efficiency. New shape factors and control tools will enable the creation of customized and truly sustainable lighting systems.

Saving energy
Lighting systems that react to customer frequency can save energy in an intelligent manner. With integrated motion sensors, the LED-panels turn on in full when a customer enters the shopping space, providing them with the sensation of brightness. At night in contrast, when the retail store is closed, the lighting system automatically shuts down to its minimum level.

Daylight integration
The lighting system makes use of daylight: The rays of sunlight are collected and directed as natural radiators into the store interior. Used alongside artificial lighting, daylight integration not only saves energy, it also surprises customers with natural lighting and true sustainability.

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How to achieve operational efficiency

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Flexible light lines

A modular system of luminous LED-lines on walls and ceilings provides a wide range of options. Easily compounded into lighting structures, the individual modules enable different shapes to be realized and individual needs to be met. Such flexibility is ideal from a marketing strategy point of view, with the modular flexible lines allowing users to create new shapes for each new strategy.

Global light control

Imagine a tailor-made lighting system that can be controlled using a centralized control platform and which is able to respond to local demands. The lighting atmospheres in all the different stores and cities can be adapted by remote control to reflect common marketing strategies. Pre-programmed colours and lighting ambiances are altered centrally via the Internet, regardless of the stores location, enabling easy management of lighting atmospheres anywhere in the world.

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How to achieve operational efficiency

How to achieve operational efficiency

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Magnetic ceiling
LED spots are fixed to the magnetic ceiling in drag-and-drop fashion with no exterior aids. The positions of the spots can be altered for each fashion collection and light objective, thereby enabling different zones and individual items to be highlighted. A magnetic ceiling therefore provides a whole new range of options for future lighting solutions.

Lighting-module system
Like Lego bricks, the suspended LED lights can be flexibly slotted together according to lighting need. The expandable system allows for tailor-made lighting by altering the number of radiators to match the number of highlighted zones. When moving or changing the architectural design, the lighting system can be easily converted or reinstalled to meet any new challenges.

Cut, plug and play

Imagine a tailor-made light that can be adjusted to individual needs: The cut, plug and play light enhances the formfactors of LED-lighting and provides a wide range of options for future needs. Easy to use, the form is cut individually so that the light meets individual requirements. Its flexible form-factor means that the light will fit precisely into any individually-defined setting.

Disposable fixture system

This lighting system has a range of different add-on types, and accordingly changes its appearance according to the spatial challenge involved. Curved and rectangular add-ons can easily be attached in drag-and-drop fashion. With the disposable fixture system, the lighting system changes its body structure in line with the interior and changing needs.

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How to achieve operational efficiency

How to achieve operational efficiency

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Fashion People Light

Advantages and applications of Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs)
LEDs can be used to realize inspiring and effective design concepts in fashion retail stores. Intelligent control capabilities, light colours and sequences and high sustainability mean that the technology offers operational and strategic marketing advantages, especially in fashion retail. Philips believes that the development potential of LEDs, far from being exhausted, is currently only in its early stages. They can be loaded with intelligence and allow unconventional new form factors enabling real creative freedom.
The LED revolution has started: As of last year, LED solutions are able to replace 35 W CDM solutions. Also available now are LED luminaires that can replace traditional compact fluorescent and TL solutions. And this year, Philips will launch a solution for the replacement of the 70 Watt CDM. The company will soon therefore offer fashion retailers a complete portfolio that covers all application areas. LED general, accent and shelf lighting is variable and easily controlled. Philips lighting solutions for fashion stores, including fitting rooms, provide retailers with many options and advantages: LEDs can be switched on instantly, they do not contain harmful mercury, are not sensitive to vibration, and are much more energy efficient than conventional lights, as well as being more affordable and more sustainable in the long term not least because their service life has increased several fold. Thanks to their ease of use and straightforward installation, LEDs can be used to create individual and flexible lighting solutions.
Creative freedom LEDs open up new opportunities and possibilities. Energy-

Experience light
Light awakens emotions. Different atmospheres and effects influence the well-being of customers, and the experience factor whilst shopping provides stores with a changing face in which entire fashion collections can be shown off to best effect. The small size and minimal depth of LEDs mean that they can be easily integrated into ceilings, floors, and walls and even into furniture items to achieve these aims. They do not need additional reflectors to direct light or to protect the lighting element.

saving lamps can not only generate fascinating luminous fluxes and colour spectra, they can also be used to create vivid scenarios and colours using sensors or motion control.

Fashion People Light

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Light itself becomes an illuminant LEDs can be used in any lighting fixtures, with virtually no limits on their flexibility or the range of possibilities. Through the integration of LEDs, walls and glass surfaces become fully usable. In the case of organic LEDs (OLEDs), light is emitted by entire surfaces rather than by large numbers of

The dome breathes An elegantly-lit dome is the focal point of Swedens oldest department store, PUB in Stockholm. 500 RGB LED lights hidden in the structure transform the dome into a living component that seems to breathe light. Different lighting scenarios convey different impressions: The morning, for example, starts with a 15-minute sunrise, with the colours becoming more intense in the afternoon and the pace increasing. Light in this way becomes a dynamic part of the architecture.

They also emit no infrared or ultraviolet radiation, so neither the illuminated surfaces nor the lighting elements themselves heat up. Using LEDs light and spatial impressions combine to form a uniform, homogenous experience. LEDs can also be installed in any luminous elements, as recessed lighting or spotlights the flexibility of their uses and applications is virtually limitless. Even when arranged in different ways, the light quality of LEDs remains constant and precisely defined in each colour temperature area (warm, neutral or cool white). In addition it can be smoothly dimmed. By mixing red, green and blue light points according to the RGB principle, colour arrangements can be created to support a wide range of communication aims. Adjusting the proportions of the individual light colours enables up to 16 million colours to be mixed. Completely new approaches for dynamic lighting concepts and sequences up to and including the presentation of moving images on large LED video screens create unusual experiential spaces that stimulate customers senses.

small point-like light sources. Light itself becomes an illuminant.

Unlimited possibilities LEDs are based on semiconductor technology and are software-controlled. Light intensity, colour, and temperature can all be adjusted and programmed according to individual needs. Special lighting effects for seasonal collections are just as feasible as highlights for temporary promotions.

Intelligent control and programming

Unlike traditional light bulbs and energy saving lamps, LEDs are based on semiconductor technology. They therefore form a natural part of todays digital world and can be controlled using software. Light colour, temperature and intensity can accordingly be programmed in such a way as to meet the exact needs of each user. Special lighting effects for seasonal collections are just as feasible as highlights for temporary promotions. Smooth transitions

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Fashion People Light

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between different lighting situations can also create feel-good scenarios for customers. Light intensity and colour temperature are adjusted in real time in response to changing daylight conditions. Day and night scenarios are also possible: Individual programming means that areas can be automatically lit less intensively when unused, and light intensity increased in the case of strong customer traffic. Online control of entire lighting systems also results in efficiency through versatility, as well as in additional energy advantages.

thus be optimally presented as retail spaces during the day, and transformed into atmospheric bars at night. Rapid and inconspicuous reprogramming consequently takes the place of time-consuming and costly structural alterations to new store designs. Moreover some LED lights can now be upgraded, with control units able to be replaced in a few easy steps and the appearance of luminaires altered.

The innovative potential of LEDs

LEDs offer a high degree of creative freedom. Although the technology is still in its infancy, it is already characterized by its enormous potential for innovation and growth. When LEDs are integrated into materials such as wood, concrete, or plastic, these surfaces can be illuminated from the inside. The integration of the technology into wall and glass surfaces in fashion retail stores means that these surfaces then become fully usable. Ongoing energy and efficiency improvements and the boundless creativity of lighting designers mean that more new LED solutions can be expected in the future not least in the area of organic LEDs (OLEDs). Instead of a large number of small point-like sources of light, the light in this case is emitted via entire surfaces. And because these areas are very flat and freely mouldable, it is likely that one day completely homogeneous and flexible illumination surfaces will be possible maybe in the form of luminous clothes or rollable computer monitors.

Conversion is worthwhile
After just a few years, investment in LED lighting solutions will have paid off due to their more efficient light generation and longer service life. Besides high efficiency and low operating costs, a uniformly controlled LED lighting system means that there is no need for the costly deployment and complex maintenance of different lighting systems. Long-term, flexible and highly creative store concepts can be implemented with standardized lighting solutions and used according to need. Stores can

Now is the time to consider lighting solutions that can enhance your retail spaces and bring your brand alive. Philips can help you meet your lighting ambitions and create flexible, energyefficient and dynamic fashion lighting solutions. Designed to make your customer experience unforgettable.

Colour plays Unlimited freedom in the choice of colours, patterns, surfaces and assemblies make LEDs the perfect choice for skilful product showcasing. By mixing red, green and blue light points according to the RGB principle, they can be used to create colour arrangements, and by adjusting the proportions of the individual light colours, up to 16 million different colours can be mixed.

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Future scenarios
When light and material become one
The small size and easy installation method of LEDs mean that they can currently be attached to walls, ceilings or shelves. In future, however, an even more efficient solution looks set to emerge: LEDs will be integrated into translucent materials, allowing plastics, wood, concrete and porcelain to glow from within. Instead of directing light into the room, space-defining elements will themselves start to give off light. The technical requirements for the integration of LEDs into components and furniture have already been met. Their development and refinement will open up a wide range of relevant future scenarios, with considerable innovative potential for fashion retail stores in particular.

Flying light points

A ceiling construction with a magnetic field in which LEDs appear as flying points of light can provide a store with a lively lighting-system highlight. The light spot pattern is triggered by customer interaction. The light points can also react to the number of customers underneath. The impression given by this futuristic system is of a flexible illuminated ceiling lit up as if by magic.

Inside out
In large malls and busy shopping streets, retailers often find it difficult to gain the undivided attention of passers-by. If light lines are integrated into the walls and ceilings of a store, and these are extended to the area in front of the shop window, the brand image can also be experienced there. The uniform lines blur the boundaries between inside and outside. Customers experience both areas as a single unit, and in this way are guided into the store.

Glowing information screen

Partitions, walls and other surfaces, when fitted with integrated LEDs, can be transformed into flexible information screens. The panels can, according to need, then be used to announce special offers or draw attention to new collections. Additional displays, banners and billboards are rendered superfluous. If the LED screens are switched off, the wall surface remains intact.

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Future scenarios

Future scenarios

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Lighting Furniture Displays

Display panels and other types of displays are unnecessary in this vision. Integrated into the stores furniture, table and shelf areas become multifunctional screens instead. Besides price information, they can display various other details about the products. They are individually controllable and therefore permit a wide range of options.

Lighting furniture and walls

With integrated LEDs the material that forms a room can itself become a source of light. Coloured illuminated walls and ceilings conjure up a versatile and flexible environment. LEDs integrated into individual furniture items, benches, shelves and cabinets transform the store interior into a multifunctional glowing stage that can highlight different areas in order to catch customers attention.

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Future scenarios

Future scenarios

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Lighting Shelf
Modular shelving systems with integrated LED solutions are versatile and can be used in new and different ways on an ongoing basis. Wherever light is needed, they provide precise highlights. During conversion work, no wires or cables need to be laid down for them.

Multifunctional lighting wall

Integrated LEDs bestow multifunctional walls with a sculptural effect. The glowing edges emphasize their space-forming character and ensure that individual items are placed in the correct light. Instead of directing individual ceiling light spots at various points, integrated LEDs create a multi-functional lighting atmosphere that glows from the inside out.

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Future scenarios

Future scenarios

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Impressions from the workshops

Hong Kong
In which direction is the fashion retail sector heading? Which design ideas have potential for the future? Which lighting solutions are relevant? These and other questions were asked and answered by the participants at the first Fashion People Light workshop, held in December 2009 in Hong Kong, where Philips launched its series of dialogues with international architects and designers.

New York
Which creative solutions can fashion retail designers use to incorporate the possibilities of augmented reality? Which tools allow interaction with customers, and to what extent is social media relevant for lighting systems in store designs? At the Fashion People Light workshop in New York, Philips presented for discussion lighting inspirations for the retail world of tomorrow.

Expanding the line of vision

For Philips, the workshop in Asia represented the start of a regular exchange with international experts. Their experiences in dealing with light are set to form the creative basis for new developments.

The throbbing metropolis of New York provided the perfect setting for Philips North American workshop.

Extending knowledge A lively exchange

A total of 11 architects and designers took part in the workshop in Hong Kong. Their creative experiences and insights were incorporated into an inspiring dialogue and illustrated in the form of numerous sketches. A total of 9 participants with international experience came together in May 2010 in New York to exchange their thoughts and ideas on the lighting world of tomorrow.

Experiencing light
What can LEDs do? And in which direction are the trends in retail lighting heading? Using concrete study objects, architects and designers at the workshop increased their knowledge of the technical aspects of LEDs.

Creative ideas
In small groups, they developed clear future visions for lighting scenarios for the retail world. What challenges need to be overcome if the fashion retail sector is to succeed in drawing consumers full attention to its brands and products?

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Impressions from the workshops

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London
Can light be a creative construction material? Architects and designers from eight different countries attended the Fashion People Light workshop in London in July 2010 to get to grips with this question. Together with Philips, the European experts discussed the trends and challenges of store design. Their visionary sketches on lighting design depict inspiring ideas for the shopping world of tomorrow.

Participants
Hong Kong New York
Bill Armstrong WILLIAM ARMSTRONG LIGHTING DESIGN, New York, NY www.wald-studio.com Mario Echeverria Echeverria Design Group, Coral Gables, FL www.echeverriadesign.com Don Hasulek Managing Director Fitch Arizona, Scottsdale, AZ www.fitch.com Amy Laughead Amy Lighting Design, Cincinnati, OH alaughead@hotmail.com Fred Margulies, Architect LEED AP Director of Marketing, Herschman Architects, Cleveland, OH www.herschmanarchitects.com Aaron M. Ruef Senior graphic designer FRCH, Cincinnati, OH www.frch.com Michael Stiller Lighting Designer, New York, NY www.michaelstiller.com Ian Tornquist Echeverria Design Group, Coral Gables, FL www.echeverriadesign.com Rob Weber Echeverria Design Group, Coral Gables, FL www.echeverriadesign.com

London
Maurizio Favetta King Size architects by King Size sas, Milano, Italy www.kingsizearchitects.com Volker Katschinski dan pearlman, Berlin, Germany www.danpearlman.com Claudia Kleine Jrg Krschner Formstelle, Munich, Germany www.formstelle.de Juliette Nielsen ATELIER LEK, 3021 EE Rotterdam, The Netherlands www.atelierlek.nl Anna Pedziwiatr Riegler Riewe Architekten ZT Ges.m.b.H, Graz, Austria www.rieglerriewe.co.at Heiner Probst LIGANOVA GmbH, Stuttgart, Germany www.liganova.de Prof. Hartmut Raiser Raiser Lopes Architekten/-innen, Stuttgart, Germany www.raiserlopes.com Andreas Ramseier RAMSEIER & ASSOCIATES LTD., Zurich, Switzerland www.ramseier-assoc.com Joo Costa Ribeiro EXTRASTUDIO, Lisbon, Portugal www.extrastudio.pt Gunnar Seel Seel Bobsin Partner Design-Konzeptionen, Hamburg, Germany www.sbpdesign.de Lennart Wiechell Schmidhuber + Partner GbR, Munich, Germany www.schmidhuber.de

The English brick tradition

The Wapping Project, a converted water power station in Londons East End, provided an inspirational architectural setting for the workshop in London.

Europe assembled
A total of 12 architects and designers from all over Europe came to the workshop in London. They combined their expertise and wide-ranging experiences from different countries to form an international network.

A dialogue between experts

In stimulating discussions, the participants developed visions for dealing with light and space. Interesting dialogues and unusual ideas inspired them to come up with unusual solutions.

Creative vibrations
The group work took place in a relaxed and constructive atmosphere, with the ideas and sketches for specific lighting solutions being discussed by all the members together.

Rohini Bhardwaj Reliance Group, Navi Mumbai www.ril.com Cosmo Chan Metersbonwe (M&B), Shanghai www.metersbonwe.com Gao Chao IAD (Interior Architecture Design), Shanghai www.iad.com Tomoe Chou Work Tech Corporation, Tokyo www.worktech.com Nilesh Joshi Lifestyle Group, Bangalore nilesh.joshi@maxretailstores.com Andy Leung Work Tech Corporation, Hong Kong www.worktech.com Yilian Ng WGSN, Hong Kong www.wgsn.com Ed Ng ABConcept, Hong Kong www.abconcept.net Warinya Pintongkam(Jui) The Light Box, Singapore www.lightboxlighting.com Cheung Wai Yan, Queenie Metersbonwe (M&B), Shanghai www.metersbonwe.com Terry Waterhouse RedGOODSS, Hong Kong www.redgoodss.com

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Impressions from the workshops

Impressions from the workshops

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Notes

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Notes

Notes

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Imprint
Publisher Philips Lighting B.V. Mathildelaan 1 5611 BD Eindhoven The Netherlands +31 40 27 55099 www.philips.com info@philips.com Responsible for content Fabia Tetteroo-Bueno Lisette Ditters Nina Rosenthal Luc Vinkenvleugel Filip jan Depauw Philips Lighting Editorial team Zorica Funk Sandra Hofmeister Hildegard Wnger Institut fr internationale Architektur-Dokumentation GmbH & Co. KG Hackerbrcke 6 80335 Munich/Germany Design concept, layout and illustration bia graphic design Birgit Grabner Vienna/Austria Printing Universal, Munich/Germany 2011 The magazine and all articles contained therein are protected by copyright. They may not be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. Editorial contributions and comments do not necessarily reflect the publishers opinion. If some authors of photographs were not determined despite careful research, copyrights are nevertheless protected. Please notify the publisher if applicable.

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Imprint