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Integrated Term Project

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Embroidery

Acknowledgment
This project was a collaborative approach to the vast field of EMBROIDERY and all the knowledge it provided. This project would have been incomplete without the proper guidance and support of our mentor Sir Anant Phani. He had been a complete pool of knowledge and information regarding the processing of this project. We would also like to thank Mr. Chaudhary Embroidery works, Alkapuri for their great support in letting us visit their industry and providing a solid background to the methods of how the industry utilizes the advents of a machine to provide detailed and quantitative embroideries.

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1. Introduction
Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. It is an art form that uses close or overlapping stitches to form intricate, three dimensional, surface designs to embellish piece goods, trims or garments. Embroidery has evolved from hundreds of years of handwork by dozens of cultures to an established art form. Today the embroidery process uses advanced technology to embellish styles and mass produce trims for the garment industry. Embroidery is a flat trim that adds interest and differentiation to a product. Embroidery has evolved from a customized hand sewing process to computer controlled stitching for mass production. Some of the first embroidery machines made it possible to apply names on individual garments, such as hats and shirts. This required a great deal of operator skill to manipulate the garment and form the lettering. Modern embroidery machine require the operator to only hoop the fabric to the machine under the head and the embroidery designs are applied directly to piece goods, garments, or as emblems. Types of embroidery include every sort of ornamental work done with a sewing needle of any kind. Embroidery may be done on any number of fabrics from satin to
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canvas. Embroiderers, known for their resourcefulness, experiment and learn from others which kind of stitch and thread works best and proceed to produce wonderful works of art, many times mixing types of embroidery. Often embroidery types were named after the predominate stitch that was used, such as cross-stitch. Others were named after the place they were first introduced, such as Berlin Wool Work or Mountmellicks embroidery. What can make finding a "type" of embroidery confusing is that many times there are more than one name for a particular kind of embroidery. For example, pulled thread, drawn thread and Hardanger are often classified as the same embroidery style. Embroidery techniques can produce a wide range of effects. Some produce a flat surface while others produce a relief effect. Almost any effect wanted can be produced in embroidery - from simple line to fancy stitches with beads, baubles and anything else attached. Embroidery is definitely one of the most versatile crafts ever created. Embroidery machines for home sewing may feature builtin designs, a slot for an embroidery card, or even a built-in disk drive through which embroidery designs can be uploaded. Commercial embroidery machines feature multiple needles, stitch a wider variety of fabrics and designs, and stitch multiple colors without stopping to change the thread colors.

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1.1 History of Embroidery

The History of Embroidery dates back some 3000 years ago. It started with Ancient Egypt, Babylonians, Phoenicians and the Hebrews, who used it for decorating their robes. The Moors also decorated much of their clothing with embroidery. They had a style of their own which spread to other countries like Spain and Sicily. Moorish embroidery greatly influenced many European countries. Embroidery in the middle Ages was very prolific. Rich traders and merchants were willing to pay a large sum of money for the luxury of embroidered clothing. It wasnt until the Renaissance Period that new applications for embroidery came about such as tapestries, laces, curtains, and bed covers. In America, the first commercial embroidery manufacturing establishment was started in 1848 in New York by Jacob Schiess. He came from Switzerland and within a year had his own embroidery plant in operation. All the stitching was done by hand by fifteen woman stitching exquisite designs by hand. The development of machine embroidery did not take place until the 1800s. Joshua Heilmann from Mulhouse worked on the design of a hand embroidery machine. Though he did not sell many, it revolutionized the embroidery industry. Heilmanns invention was quickly followed by
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the "shuttle embroidery" and the "chain stitch embroidery" methods. The beginning of shuttle embroidery dates back to the 1860s when Isaac Groebli, from St. Gallen, Switzerland, was inspired by the work produced on the sewing machine. Around the 1870s there were fourteen companies manufacturing embroidery machines in Switzerland manufacturing hand loom embroidery machines. In 1873, Alphonse Kursheedt imported twelve of the then new embroidery hand looms from St. Gallen, making him the first American to use a mechanized embroidery process. The looms used multiple needles and were an unbelievable improvement over the age-old process of stitching by hand. They were, however, powered manually. Immediately afterwards, Issac Groebli of Switzerland invented the first practical Schiffli Embroidery machine. This machine was based on the principals introduced by the newly invented sewing machine. Groeblis machine utilized the combination of a continuously threaded needle and shuttle containing a bobbin of thread. The shuttle itself looked similar to the hull of a sailboat. His machine came to be known as a schiffli machine. "Schiffli" in the Swiss dialect of the German language , means "little boat". In 1876, Kursheedt also imported a number of schiffli machines, thereby making him the real founder of the schiffli embroidery industry in the United States. Dr. Robert Reiner, founder of Robert Reiner, Inc., of Weehawken, came to this country in 1903 in his early
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twenties. Realizing the potential of the embroidery industry, he persuaded the Vogtlandishe Machine Works of Plauen, Germany, to appoint him its American Agent. Then began the mass importation of embroidery machines into northern New Jerseys Hudson County. The banks arranged long term credit to purchasers. Dr. Reiner made it possible for hundreds of Austrian, German, and Swiss immigrants in New Jersey to become manufacturers of embroidery. The industry grew until 1938, when suddenly the two sources for the manufacture of machines in Plauen, Germany, and Arbon, Switzerland, ceased operation because of World War 2. No additional machines were produced until 1953, when Robert Reiner Inc. introduced the first American made schiffli machine. Before computers were affordable, most embroidery was completed by punching designs on paper tape that then ran through an embroidery machine. One error could ruin an entire design, forcing the creator to start over. In 1980, Wilcom introduced the first computer graphics embroidery design system to run on a minicomputer. Melco, an international distribution network formed by Randal Melton and Bill Childs, created the first embroidery sample head for use with large Schiffli looms. These looms spanned several feet across and produced lace patches and large embroidery patterns. The sample head allowed embroiderers to avoid manually sewing the design sample and saved production time.
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Subsequently, it became the first computerized embroidery machine marketed to home sewers. The economic conditions of the Reagan Years, coupled with tax incentives for home businesses, helped propel Melco to the top of the market. At the Show of the Americas in 1980, Melco unveiled the Digitrac, a digitizing system for embroidery machines. The digitized design was composed at six times the size of the embroidered final product. The Digitrac consisted of a small computer, similar in size to a BlackBerry, mounted on an X and Y axis on a large white board. It sold for $30,000. The original single-needle sample head sold for $10,000 and included a 1" paper-tape reader and 2 fonts. The digitizer marked common points in the design to create elaborate fill and satin stitch combinations. Melco patented the ability to sew circles with a satin stitch, as well as arched lettering generated from a keyboard. An operator digitized the design using similar techniques to punching, transferring the results to a 1" paper tape or later to a floppy disk. This design would then be run on the embroidery machine, which stitched out the pattern. Wilcom enhanced this technology in 1982 with the introduction of the first multi-user system, which allowed more than one person to work on the embroidery process, streamlining production times. Brother Industries entered the embroidery industry after several computerized embroidery companies
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contracted it to provide sewing heads. Later, the Japanese company Tajima provided sewing heads that were capable of using multiple threads. Singer failed to remain competitive during this time. Melco was acquired by Saurer in 1989. The major embroidery machine companies eventually adapted their commercial systems and marketed them to companies such as Janome for home use. Since the late 1990s, computerized machine embroidery has grown in popularity as costs have fallen for computers, software, and embroidery machines. Many machine manufacturers sell their own lines of embroidery patterns. In addition, many individuals and independent companies also sell embroidery designs, and there are free designs available on the internet.

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2. Embroidery
Embroidery is an art form that uses close or overlapping stitches to form intricate ,three dimensional ,surface designs to embellish piece goods , trims or garments. Embroidery has evolved from hundreds of years of handwork by dozens of culture an established art form. Today , the embroidery process uses advanced technology to embellish styles and mass-produce trims for the garment industry. Embroidery is a flat trim that adds interest and differentiation to a product. Embroidery has evolved from a customized handsewing process to computer controlled stitching for mass production. Some of the first embroidery machine made it possible to apply names on individual garments ,such as hats and shirts. This required a great deal of operator skill to manipulate garments and form the lettering. Modern embroidery machines only require the operator to hoop and place the garment or fabric to be embroidered under the needles. Embroidered designs may be applied directly to piece goods .garment components .finished garments ,or an individual emblem that are an add on type of trim.

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2.1 MATERIAL REQUIRED

Material used in embroidery
The fabrics and yarns used in traditional embroidery vary from place to place. Wool, linen, and silk have been in use for thousands of years for both fabric and yarn. Today, embroidery thread is manufactured in cotton, rayon, and novelty yarns as well as in traditional wool, linen, and silk. Ribbon embroidery uses narrow ribbon in silk or silk/organza blend ribbon, most commonly to create floral motifs. Surface embroidery techniques such as chain stitch and couching or laid-work are the most economical of expensive yarns; couching is generally used for gold work. Canvas work techniques, in which large amounts of yarn are buried on the back of the work, use more materials but provide a sturdier and more substantial finished textile. In both canvas work and surface embroidery an embroidery hoop or frame can be used to stretch the material and ensure even stitching tension that prevents pattern distortion. Modern canvas work tends to follow very symmetrical counted stitching patterns with designs developing from repetition of one or only a few similar stitches in a variety of thread hues. Many forms of surface embroidery, by contrast, are distinguished by a wide range
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of different stitching patterns used in a single piece of work.

2.2 TYPES AND CLASSIFICATION OF EMBROIDERY

2.2.1 Embroidery can be classified according to whether the design is stitched On top Through The foundation fabric, and by the relationship of stitch placement to the fabric. 2.2.1.1 Free embroidery Designs are applied without regard to the weave of the underlying fabric. Examples include crewel and traditional Chinese and Japanese embroidery.
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2.2.1.2 Counted-thread embroidery Patterns are created by making stitches over a predetermined number of threads in the foundation fabric. Counted-thread embroidery is more easily worked on an even-weave foundation fabric such as embroidery canvas, aid a cloth, or specially woven cotton and linen fabrics although non-even weave linen is used as well. Examples include needlepoint and some forms of black work embroidery 2.2.1.3 Canvas work In canvas work threads are stitched through a fabric mesh to create a dense pattern that completely covers the foundation fabric. Traditional canvas work such as bargello is a counted-thread technique.Since the 19th century, printed and hand painted canvases where the painted or printed image serves as color-guide have eliminated the need for counting threads. These are particularly suited to pictorial rather than geometric
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designs deriving from the Berlin wool work craze of the early 19th century. 2.2.1.4 Drawn thread work and cutwork The foundation fabric is deformed or cut away to create holes that are then embellished with embroidery, often with thread in the same color as the foundation fabric. These techniques are the progenitors of needlelace. When created in white thread on white linen or cotton, this work is collectively referred to as whitework. 2.2.1.5Alphabet Design Embroidery Was originally used to mark household linens and then used to personalize handmade gifts. This technique uses padding stitches under an even layer of even stitches to produce a raised embroidery effect. 2.2.1.6 Applique Is the technique of taking a pattern of one material, laid on another which forms the ground. The edges of the cut-out design are either sewed over, ornamented with
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fancy cord, braid, gold thread, or any other appropriate material. 2.2.1.7 Arrasene Embroidery Is an embroidery material that was very popular during Victorian times. It was introduced for artistic embroidery around 1883 and was thought to likely supersede other kinds of embroidery materials used in bold designs in decorative needlework. It is a kind of fine chenille and came in both silk and wool.

2.2.1.8 Back Stitch Embroidery Back Stitch Embroidery is one of the simplest kinds of embroidery. The Back Stitch is the only stitch used with this type of embroidery. 2.2.1.9 Bead Embroidery (beading) Berlin embroidery Is a style of canvas work embroidery. In the 1830's, a new processes of dyeing wools made this type of embroidery possible. The resulting embroidery produced very durable and long lasting pieces. Berlin work was used to create cushions, bags and furniture covers.
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2.2.1.10 Black work Broderie Anglaise Broderie Anglaise is also known as English Embroidery. It is kind of White Embroidery. 2.2.1.11 Bulgarian Embroidery Bulgarian embroidery is used almost exclusively upon heavy linens and canvas. It is entirely conventional in design and also in manner of working. 2.2.1.12 Canvas Work Is stitched onto coarse or tight-textured canvas and also referred to as needlepoint, a term borrowed from lacemaking. See Needlepoint. 2.2.1.13 Chenille Chip Embroidery Embroidery on Chip was embroidery on material made either of fine plaited chips or wood shavings. The designs used for this type of work were very simple. 2.2.1.14 Coral work Crazy Work Crazy work is made by attaching random size and shape pieces of material together to form a larger piece of
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material. This material then can be used in making a quilt or other projects, such as table cover, cushions, etc. Many different projects described on this page. Cretonne Applique This type of applique was very popular with Victorian women. Cretonne fabric made it very easy to make wonderful and unique applique linens quickly. 2.2.1.15 Crewel embroidery This type of embroidery gets its name from the fine wool yarn that is used. The designs are generally bold, since it is difficult to create small intricate designs in wool. 2.2.1.16 Cross-Stitch Embroidery Is probably the most common types of embroidery. It is composed of floss stitched in an X like manner on canvas or a canvas like material. Aida cloth is the choice of most Embroiderers today. Java canvas was typically used by Victorian ladies. 2.2.1.17 Cut-Work Cut Work, also called Venetian embroidery and Roman embroidery, all of which are but the same style of work under different names. Small shapes are cut out of the ground material, the cut edges are embroidered, and the
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vacant space is often filled in with decorative stitches. Hardanger and Hedebo can be classified as cut work.

2.2.1.18 Delft Embroidery This style of work gains its name from the Delft ware. Quaint Holland scenes, done entirely in one color, make this type of embroidery easily recognized. 2.2.1.19 Drawn thread Certain threads of the warp or weft (or both) are removed from the ground, and the remaining threads are embroidered. 2.2.1.20 Dresden Embroidery Dresden Embroidery is named from the ware of the same name. Linens embroidered in this type of embroidery will add a beautiful sophistication to any Victorian table

2.2.1.21 English Embroidery English Embroidery is also known as Broderie Anglaise . It is kind of White Embroidery.

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2.2.1.22 English Eyelet Embroidery Was a popular means of decorating shirtwaists, collars and other apparel in the late 1800s.

2.2.1.23 Etching Embroidery Etching embroidery, also known as Print Work, is used to reproduce line engravings with embroidery and paint.

2.2.1.24 Filet Embroidery Is done on a net-like fabric. 2.2.1.25 Florentine Embroidery Is also known as Bargello Embroidery. Traditionally designs are very colorful. By using many different hues of the same color, very intricate shading effects were produced. 2.2.1.26 French Laid Embroidery French Laid Embroidery, also known as White Work, is known and appreciated the world over. It is a raised embroidery. The stitches are close and firm.

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2.2.1.27 Gretchen Embroidery Gretchen embroidery is an unusual embroidery technique not often found.

2.2.1.28 Huckaback Embroidery Huckaback Embroidery is embroidered on Huckaback fabric. It is fast and easy. The most characteristic feature of this style of work consists in the treatment of the background.

2.2.1.29 Indian Floss Silk Embroidery Indian Floss Silk Embroidery is work executed upon black or white net with white or colored floss silks, and is an imitation of the Floss Silk Embroidery made by the natives of India.

2.2.1.30 Irridescent Embroidery Irridescent Embroidery is sometimes called opalescent embroidery and either term indicates the distinctive feature of the work. It is always worked in Kensington Stitch and in the palest of colors
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2.2.1.31 Jewel Jewel Embroidery is the introduction of dots in a design which are worked in imitation of jewels

2.2.1.31 Linen Embroidery Linen Embroidery was used to decorate borders of towels, tablecloths, and other items because it looked well on both sides. It can be described as a combination of Drawn Work and Embroidery.

2.2.1.32 Mediaeval Embroidery Is also known as "Point Venice", "Italian Relief Embroidery", as well as other names. It is basically an adaption of the Buttonhole stitch.

2.2.1.33 Mexican Embroidery Mexican Embroidery is suitable for ornamenting washable materials such as linens, muslins, and cambrics. It uses the buttonhole stitch and other simple stitches.

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2.2.1.34 Mexican Square Embroidery Is unusual, it may be the perfect addition to your embroidery fancy work.

2.2.1.35 Mexican Wheel Embroidery Is similar to Mexican Square Embroidery but has its own unique appearance. 2.2.1.36 Mountmellick Embroidery Is also called Mountmellick Work or Fine White Work. 2.2.1.37 Needlepoint is embroidery done on canvas. Traditionally Needlepoint was completed on a linen canvas with wool thread. Although different stitches were used, depending upon locations, the tent stitch was used most often. Today embroiderers, when needlepointing, use a much wider range of stitches than ever used before. 2.2.1.38 Net Embroidery Net Embroidery is an effective way of ornamenting White or Black Net for dress trimmings, caps, and other
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small articles of dress. It is also used for home decorative items that do not get a lot of wear. 2.2.1.39 Netting Silk in Embroidery The most delicate kinds of embroidery are worked with fine netting silk, one strand of which is drawn out.

2.2.1.40 Oriental Embroidery Oriental Embroidery is actually a class of embroidery. It includes Chinese, Indian, Japanese, Persian, Bulgarian, and Turkish embroideries. They are celebrated for a number of reasons.

2.2.1.41 Persian Embroidery Persian Embroidery has changed over the course of history. It receives its name based upon the designs and colors used. 2.2.1.42 Punched Work Punched Work is another type of embroidery that has been used to describe different types of embroidery. Most people today, when thinking of Punch or Punched
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Embroidery automatically think of the type that has the loops of top of the fabric (similar to a hooked rug). This type of embroidery has been around for centuries. The other Punched Work, as described and illustrated here, is more of a drawn work

2.2.1.43 Raised Embroidery There a number of different Raised Embroideries. One kind is when stitches are taken over a wadding of cotton. Another is when the design is formed with loops of Plush Stitch, which are afterward fluffed up and cut. And yet a third kind is when a stiffening material, such as wire mesh, is used, then covered with cloth and then embroidered. 2.2.1.44 Red work Red work is a form of needlework that uses red cotton embroidery floss on a white background. The patterns are usually very simple line drawings. 2.2.1.45 Ribbon Embroidery The earlier ribbon embroidery designs were worked out with a narrow China ribbon about one-half inch in width. The designs were chiefly floral in nature. Usually
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only the wealthy could afford to do this type of embroidery 2.2.1.46 Ribbon Work In Ribbon Work, flowers and buds only are made of ribbon, i. e., the petals only; the foliage are embroidered in arrasene, chenille, filoselle or embroidery silk. 2.2.1.47 Rice Embroidery Rice Embroidery is a type of White Embroidery. The Rice Stitch is used extensively in this type of embroidery, hence the name. 2.2.1.48 Seed Embroidery Is an German Victorian era embroidery using a variety of seeds and chenilles to produce a very unique type of embroidery.

2.2.1.49 Smocking Is decorative stitches that secure gathers or folds, which have been previously formed in the foundation material.

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2.2.1.50 Straw Embroidery Straw Embroidery is virtually unheard of now but it was a type of embroidery Victorians were interested in using. 2.2.1.51 Swiss Embroidery Swiss Embroidery Swiss embroidery is known by many different names such as Broderie Anglaise, Irish Work, and Madeira Work.

2.2.1.52 Towelling (Toweling) Embroidery Towelling (Toweling) Embroidery was very popular in the 1880's. It is a mix of easy embroidery stitches and drawn work. The results are remarkable. 2.2.1.53 Tulle Embroidery Tulle Embroidery is a true Victorian style embroidery. Simple to do using just Tulle, floss, and a simple pattern

2.2.1.54 Venetian Embroidery Venetian Embroidery takes its name from Venetian lace, owing to a certain similarity in its general
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appearance. It resembles Roman Work and Strasbourg Embroidery, but is lighter than either in effect.

2.2.1.55 Venetian Long Stitch Embroidery Venetian Long Stitch Embroidery is the old-fashioned description of Worsted Work worked on open canvas.

2.2.1.56 Wallachian Embroidery The present adaptations of this work show it in any material that can be embroidered, and, of course, the thread employed must correspond with the material on which the embroidery is done. Often the work is padded and raised. 2.2.1.57 White Embroidery Is also known as White Work.

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2.3 EMROIDERY CLASSIFICATION

Hand embroidery Machine embroidery

2.3.1 Hand embroidery

Embroidery is needlework done for decorative purposes on items such as clothing, accessories, household linens, bed sheets, towels and so forth. It is an ancient art of threadwork which creates designs and pictures by sewing strands of material on to another layer of fabric. While most embroidery is done using thread or wool sewn onto a woven fabric, it can also be done by working with non-traditional materials such as wire, leather or metallic strands. Today with the advances in science and technology embroidery can also be done on traditional as well as non-traditional fabrics such as leather, plastic and felt as well.

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Some of the types include:

2.3.1.1 Assisi Embroidery: Assisi embroidery is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on an ancient Italian tradition where the background is filled with embroidery stitches and the main motifs are left void i.e. unstitched. The name is derived from the Italian town of Assisi where the modern form of the craft originated. 2.3.1.2 Bargello Embroidery: Bargello is a type of needlepoint embroidery consisting of upright flat stitches laid in a mathematical pattern to create motifs. The name originates from a series of chairs found in the Bargello palace in
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Florence, which have a "flame stitch" pattern. 2.3.1.3 Black work Embroidery: Black work Embroidery is a form embroidery using black thread. Sometimes it is counted-thread embroidery which is usually stitched on even-weave fabric. Any black thread can be used, but firmly twisted threads give a better look than embroidery floss. Traditionally black work is stitched in silk thread on white or off-white linen or cotton fabric. Sometimes metallic threads or colored threads are used for accents.

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2.3.1.4 Bunka shishu:

In English often shortened to bunka, is a form of Japanese embroidery originating around the turn of the 20th century. Bunka artists use a specialized embroidery needle and rayon threads to create very detailed pictures that some liken to oil paintings. Typical subjects include people, living things (traditionally fish), and traditional Japanese scenes. Unlike some other forms of embroidery, bunka is fragile and is usually presented as artwork rather than as clothing adornment. Bunka has gained in popularity since the advent of numbered kits, which provide a step-by-step guide to producing artwork. Crewel Embroidery 2.3.1.5 Crewel Embroidery:

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Crewelwork, is a decorative form of surface embroidery using wool and a variety of different embroidery stitches to follow a design outline applied to the fabric. The technique is at least a thousand years old. It was used in the Bayeux Tapestry in Jacobean embroidery and in the Quaker tapestry. 2.3.1.6 Cross-stitch: Cross-stitch is a popular form of counted-thread embroidery in which X-shaped stitches in a tiled, rasterlike pattern are used to form a picture. Cross-stitch is usually executed on easily countable even weave fabric called aida cloth. The stitcher counts the threads in each

direction so that the stitches are of uniform size and appearance. This form of cross-stitch is also called counted cross-stitch in order to distinguish it from other
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forms of cross-stitch. Sometimes cross-stitch is done on designs printed on the fabric (stamped cross-stitch); the stitcher simply stitches over the printed pattern. 2.3.1.7 Drawn thread work Drawn thread work is a form of counted-thread embroidery based on removing threads from the warp and/or the weft of a piece of even-weave fabric. The remaining threads are grouped or bundled together into a variety of patterns. The more elaborate styles of drawn thread work use in fact a variety of other stitches and techniques, but the drawn thread parts are their most distinctive element. It is also grouped as whitework embroidery because it was traditionally done in white thread on white fabric and is often combined with other whitework techniques.

2.3.1.8 Hardanger embroidery Hardanger embroidery or "Hardangersm" is a form of embroidery traditionally worked with white thread on white even-weave cloth, using counted thread and drawn thread work techniques. It is sometimes called whitework embroidery.

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2.3.1.9 Ribbon Embroidery Ribbon embroidery is not as exact as other forms of needlework. There are as many variations to these stitches as there are designers who use them. The size of the stitch and how they are used (singly, in a row, or in a mass) and the size of the ribbon will all have an effect. Always read the designer's notes for best result

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2.3.2 Machine Embroidery

Machine embroidery is a process whereby a sewing machine or embroidery machine is used to create patterns on textiles. It is used commercially in product branding, corporate advertising, and uniform adornment. Hobbyists also machine embroider for personal sewing and craft projects. There are two main types of machine embroidery. The first, free-motion sewing machine embroidery, uses a basic zigzag sewing machine. The second, computerized machine embroidery, uses an embroidery machine or sewing/embroidery machine.

Machine embroidery is of two types:2.3.2.1 Free-motion machine embroidery In free-motion machine embroidery, embroidered designs are created by using a basic zigzag sewing machine. As it is used primarily for tailoring, this type of machine lacks the automated features of a specialized machine. To create free-motion machine embroidery, the embroiderer runs the machine and skillfully moves tightly hooped fabric under the needle to create a design. The operator lowers or covers the "feed dogs" or machine teeth
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and moves the fabric manually. The operator develops the embroidery manually, using the machine's settings for running stitch and fancier built-in stitches. In this way, the stitches form an image onto a piece of fabric. An embroiderer can produce a filled-in effect by sewing many parallel rows of straight stitching. A machine's zigzag stitch can create thicker lines within a design or be used to create a border. Many quilters and fabric artists use a process called thread drawing (or thread painting) to create embellishments on their projects or to create textile art. Free-motion machine embroidery can be timeconsuming. Since a standard sewing machine only has one needle, the operator must stop and re-thread the machine manually for each subsequent color in a multi-color design. He or she must also manually trim and clean up loose or connecting threads after the design is completed. As this is a manual process rather than an digital reproduction, any pattern created using free-motion machine embroidery is unique and cannot be exactly reproduced, unlike with computerized embroidery. With the advent of computerized machine embroidery, the main use of manual machine embroidery is in fiber art and quilting projects. Though some manufacturers still use manual embroidery to embellish garments, many prefer computerized embroidery's ease and reduced costs.

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2.3.2.2 Computerized machine embroidery Most modern embroidery machines are computer controlled and specifically engineered for embroidery. Industrial and commercial embroidery machines and combination sewing-embroidery machines have a hooping or framing system that holds the framed area of fabric taut under the sewing needle and moves it automatically to create a design from a pre-programmed digital embroidery pattern. Depending on its capabilities, the machine will require varying degrees of user input to read and sew embroidery designs. Sewing-embroidery machines generally have only one needle and require the user to change thread colors during the embroidery process. Multi-needle industrial machines are generally threaded prior to running the design and do not require rethreading. These machines require the user to input the correct color change sequence before beginning to embroider. Some can trim and change colors automatically. A multi-needle machine may consist of multiple sewing heads, each of which can sew the same design onto a separate garment concurrently. Such a machine might have 20 or more heads, each consisting of 15 or more needles. A head is usually capable of producing many special fabric effects, including satin stitch embroidery, chain stitch embroidery, sequins, appliqu, and cutwork.
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2.3.2.3 Schiffli machine embroidery Schiffli Embroidery is manufactured by applying machine embroidering with front yarn and back yarn on base cloth using the Schiffli Embroidery machine, which is 18 meters in length and equipped with 1,000 needles. The features that differentiate embroidery from other kinds of lace are its freedom of design and ability to create luxurious three dimensional effects.

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2.4 Variation in the embroidery

Embroidery is classified into several variations depending on production methods and materials used. Common varieties are:

Allovers Guipires Chemical Automatic Color Change Embroidery on Net

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Allovers Embroidery

Embroidery on Net

The water-soluble fabric is lapped over the net, on which the stitching is performed. The stitching is performed Later the water-soluble fabric on the fabric. The fabric is dissolved allowing the embroidered stitching and the remains on the final net to remain. product.
Guipires Embroidery Bored Embroidery

The stitching is performed on waterThe fabric is perforated by a soluble fabric which is dissolved special device called borers on afterward, allowing only the the machine in addition to being embroidered yarn to remain on the stitched by needles. final product, thus laces of many styles can be duplicated on the
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embroidery machine. Color Change Embroidery

Multi-color embroidery produced by a special type of machine called color Change Machine, which enables the needles for different colors to work in turn.

Embroidery production process

Punching and Sampling The sketch created by an embroidery designer is first enlarged by 6 times and traced manually, and the resulting drawing is posted on the digitizer of a special CAD system called computer punching system. When the outlines of the shapes on the drawing are digitized by the use of a mouse, the system determines the locations of the stitching point by referring to pre-specified parameters such as stitch width, then translate them into machine interpretative pattern data which is output on to a floppy disk. This process is called punching which is an important element to determine the quality of embroidery. The data on the floppy is loaded into a sampling machine whose length
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ranges from 1 meter to 4 meters. The manufactured sample piece is shown to the customers for order.

Machine Embroidering (Production) Once the order is placed, embroidering begins on a 15-yard production machine. The machine is a large one with 18 meter length, 4.5 meter height ,and more than 1000 needles. Two pieces of base fabric are set vertically, one piece on the upper stage, the other on the lower. Thus two pieces of fabric, each with 13.7 meters length and 1.1 meter width can be embroidered at once. Since the introduction of computer numerical control, the positioning of the machine frame can be performed with higher speed and more accuracy.

Inspection, Mending, Shearing, Finishing The defects found upon close inspection will be mended by sewing machine. The floating thread is clipped by the
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shearing machine and sent to a dying factory to be finished.

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How Schiffli Machine Works

Front thread and bobbin thread form stitches

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Combination of needle and shuttle form lock of the switch

Frame Movement

For each working needle one spool or cone has to be set. The thread starts from the spool and is winded around the thread roller 2-3 times (thread should not slip). From there it passes the thread watcher, one hook and the big thread
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guide until the thread finally goes through the eye of the needle. The Schiffli machine is a variation on the sewing machine. It embroiders with a front thread and bobbin thread (yarn at the back of the cloth) which from together a lock stitch, similar to that of a sewing machine. The front yearn is treated in a needle which passes through the goods to a predetermined point. It is then retracted slightly, and the friction of the goods holds the thread, forcing a loop to be formed. A shuttle containing the yarn which is attached to the previous stitch in the back of the goods is driven through this loop, and the needle is driven again slightly further into the fabric, to allow enough thread for the shuttle to pass through the loop. The needle is retracted while the shuttle is at its highest point and the shuttle returns to the bottom of the box. As the needle retracts, tension is applied as the big thread guide tightens the stitch thus formed. The loop is closed with the bobbin thread locked inside. Each stitch forms in the same manner. Between each of these stitches the frame is moved, stopped for the stitch and moved again, thus forming the embroidery design. In Austria each revolution or movement is counted as a half stitch, while most of the world counts each movement as one full stitch.
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The spool used for a Schiffli machine is mounted on a shaft to hold a large quantity of yarn. It is placed on an angular spindle; the yarn is drawn off its right side. This way yarn can be prevented from being stuck. The winding off the yarn from full and heavy spools can be facilitated by using metal attachments which are placed in the middle of the tubes of the spools in order to allow a constant front yarn tension. Sometimes cones are used for big order of one design, when the spool would not hold enough yarn for a long run without constant changing. In such cases the yarn is drawn from the top end through the middle of the cone, which might be placed on the floor or might be fixed on the cone holder device. Unlike spools, cones are fixed on the cone holder device and can therefore not be turned.

Application of Embroidery

Party Dress

Formal Dress
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Lingerie and

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Foundation

home furnishing fabric

automobile furnishing fabric

SINGLE HEAD EMBROIDERY MACHINE Single head embroidery machines are similar to basic lockstitch sewing machine. They were developed for producing small orders and are used for customizing garments. Single head machines are most often used for customizing garments. Single head machines are most often used for custom work and monoprogramming. They may be manually operated or computer controlled. Manually operated machines depend on skilled operator to position and manipulate materials under the needles. Computerized embroidery machines are programmed to stitch the selected design and all the operator must do is place the garment.
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Technology has expanded the use of single-head embroidery machines. A computer network can interface and control multiple single-head machines so that same time. This allows manufacturer to customize their service and produce very small orders as needed by their customers. For example, to stitch a small order of three on a large multi head machines wastes capacity that could better be used for large multi head machines wastes capacity that could better be used for large orders.

Multi head embroidery machine Multi head embroidery machines are similar in operation to single-head machines except they contain two or more heads that stitch the same pattern simultaneously. Smaller areas are best embroidered with more close-set heads; larger patterns require wider needle range and fewer heads. Border machines provide the most flexibility ,because close-set heads
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can be spaced close together and alternate heads can be uncoupled to allow stitching of a wider pattern. With multi head machines, garments are individually hooped and inserted under each head. Each head utilizes 1 to 6 needles and up to 6 colors in stitching a design. Machines are purchased with a specific number of heads. The optimal number of heads is generally dependent on the firms average order size, average number of stitches per design, and size of the area to be stitched. Higher stitch counts are more produced on machine with more heads. Loading time, which entails inserting the fabric or garment component under the machine head , should be less than stitching time if the operation is to be productive , more heads require lore loading time, and for designs with a lower stitch count , there is more idle time during loading process.

Primary data collection method FIELD VISIT: The industry we worked upon was named Chaudharys Computer Embroidery Works, located in the growing urbans of Hyderabad at Dilsukh Nagar in the Alkapuri
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Colony. The industry was a home scale computer embroidery setup, where the work was done by all the females of the house. The work process involved collecting all the Location of the industry: About the industry: Time taken to reach the industry Raw material used in the industry Manufacturing process Machines in the industry Types of goods produced Cost analysis Conclusion

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