Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

KRAKÓW
October - November 2008

All Souls’ Day

We sort the cemeteries
and creep through the
crypts

Chthonian
Kraków
Reach for your
N°54 dictionary!
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 CONTENTS 7

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Arriving in Kraków 12

The Basics 13
Poland in a nutshell

Culture & Events 17

Local happenings

Where to stay 24 A debacle that has become epic in both its size and
Prices for all pockets scope, the much-maligned and highly-anticipated Kraków
Aquarium was set to open the weekend after we went to
Dining & Nightlife 47 press. Go fish, page 103.
The highs and lows
Sightseeing
Cafés 81 What to see 99
Watching the world go by Check out the highlights
Nightlife 84 Wawel 108
From dusk till dawn Poland’s pride
In Kazimierz 94 Kazimierz 110
Ancient Jewish district

Auschwitz 114

Nowa Huta 118

Ojców National Park 120

Salt Mines 121

Tarnów 122

Getting around 127

From A to B

Mail & Phones 132

Shopping 133
Directory 136

Maps & Index

City centre map 139
City map 140
Fun for the whole family, both dead and living, All Souls’ Country map 142
Day ceremonies will be going on across Poland the 1st and Street index 144
2nd of November. Don’t miss this unique cultural custom – Listings index 145
make a midnight sojourn to one of the cemeteries detailed Features index 146
on page 8.

October - November 2008

8 FOREWORD
With summer’s official flameout, nights growing long
in the tooth and a disposition towards dreary weather, Europe In Your Pocket
Kraków’s autumnal ambiance is in full swing. Gone
(gratefully) are the lion’s share of lads in their ludicrous
costumes, and just as the students they wanted to chat
up have returned from their summer nannying jobs in
the UK, no less. Bugger. Yes, autumn is a special time in
Kraków, as the camera-wielding crowds taper to a more
manageable size, the leaves perform that remarkable
chromatic manoeuvre of theirs and the days drape
themselves in an inextricable, yet strangely beguiling,
mist. If you’ve just arrived, you’ve done so at a time
when the city fails to resemble anything so well as its
true self. Make the most of it. Culturally, there’s no lull
in the calendar with the start of a new opera season (I
can tell you’re a fan) and two unmissable music festivals
in Unsound and Audio Arts (p. 20). In the Features
department this issue we’ve given the obligatory nod to
All Souls’ festivities (if you can call them that) with the
promise of coming up with something more creative and
compelling for next time. And as always, we’ve been to
all the new drinking holes, dram shops and danceclubs,
remembering just enough to give you an idea of their
virtue in our nightlife section, as well as toasting to the
new Kraków Aquarium (p. 103). It’s all there, so dig in,
dig deep and, please, dig responsibly.
Changes are indeed afoot here in the Krakowian
Pocket as yours truly is now charged with the With the launch of Moscow In Your Pocket now
unenviable task of taking over for the ineffable Mr. Alex imminent, check out what we have to offer in the Russian
Webber. I, for my part, will do my darndest to steer capital at www.inyourpocket.com: the full content of
this good ship of fools (crew of one) to a golden shore, Moscow IYP is now online. There are also online guides
with a running commentary all the way. Alex has left a to Sarajevo and Banja Luka, Bosnia to enjoy, ahead
stain upon this rag that will take months, maybe years, of print editions to both cities, to be launched in October
to rub out, but we thank him for his contributions and November. Elsewhere, Glasgow In Your Pocket is
to making this a better guide, knowing that though, in the final throes of preparation: expect the guide to hit
at times, his ability to walk a straight line may have newsstands before Christmas.
swerved, his service to KIYP never did. The biggest news of all though at In Your Pocket is
As ever, don’t hesitate to chime in and chat us up, our new, much improved website, coming soon to public
berate our blunders or express your profound regret beta. Check it out at beta.inyourpocket.com, and let
over this editorial shake-up via krakow@inyourpocket. us know what you think via email:editor@inyourpocket.
com. Now go enjoy Kraków. Garrett. com is our address.

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Kraków In Your Pocket

10 ALL SOULS’ DAY
Those of you expecting to have a wild weekend of kinky cos-
tume parties and rollicking Halloween revelry may be slightly
shocked to find a rather sobering, sombre scene the evenings
of November 1st and 2nd. Known nationally as All Saints’
and All Souls’ Day respectively (and respectfully, mind you),
these two days of the calendar year are dedicated to prayer
and paying tribute to the deceased by visiting their graves. In
accordance with tradition, families all over Poland will make
pilgrimages to the resting places of their relatives, tending
the gravesites with a care that is truly touching, before laying
wreaths and flowers and lighting candles that will be kept
lit throughout the length of the holiday and beyond. As night
descends, the country’s graveyards are aglow with the warm
light of literally thousands of flickering candles, creating an
eerie, incredibly evocative atmosphere that should not be
missed by anyone with a heart that still beats.
Like so many customs incorporated into Catholicism, this
tradition actually has pagan roots. After All Saints’ Day was
established as a holy day of obligation in 835, Saint Odilon
had the bright idea in 998 of designating November 2nd as All
Souls’ Day to replace the ancient Slavic tradition of ‘Dziady’.
During Dziady (literally, ‘Forefathers’), the living would prepare
an elaborate feast to host the souls of those who had passed,
believing that on this day they were able to leave the afterlife
and return to their families. Places were set at the table for the
ancestors and fires were often lit on the road showing them
the way to the house. A soul forgotten at Dziady would bring on
bad luck. [For this reason we challenge you to find an unloved
grave, however unlikely, and light a candle there.]
As it happens, Kraków is perhaps Poland’s most evocative,
‘necropolitan’ city in which to witness All Saints’/All Souls’.
While visitors to the city may not have forbearers interred
here, a trip to one of Kraków’s cemeteries during this unfor-
gettable ceremony is, indeed, requisite. While we could wax
poetic about the unearthly glow of the immense candlelight,
the murmur of prayer and psalms, the subtle smells of the
incense, fresh flowers and burning wax, the shades of ravens
in the trees, the wet grass and mists and the surreal duality
of the supernaturally charged, yet tranquil atmosphere – we’d
prefer you just experience it for yourself. (Take a candle.)
Cemeteries
Rakowicki Cemetery
The largest and most important of Krakow’s cemeteries,
Rakowicki was established as the city’s principal necropolis
in 1803 and is its most moving site during All Souls’. Within
the astounding candlelight you’ll find many fine examples of
sepulchral art on the tombs of artists, musicians, men of the
cloth and statesmen – notably Jan Matejko, former mayor Józef
Dietl and Poland’s first prime minister, Jan Ignacy. Impressive
memorials to Poland’s 20th century struggles are also located
here, making Rackowicki cemetery an outdoors history mu-
seum of sorts, and an important source of Polish patriotism.
Across the street is Kraków’s military cemetery, interring the
remains of Polish soldiers from both World Wars (the second
of which some would argue was actually lost by Poland), as
well as German and Red Army troops. A twenty minute walk
from the market square, simply follow the throng, or take tram
number 2 to the end of the line and throng it from there.
Salwator Cemetery
On the hillside beneath Kościuszko Mound, this cemetery lies
in one of Kraków’s most beautiful districts. A more intimate
affair than Rakowicki, souls that report here will enjoy spookier
surroundings with grand views of the city and valley below. The
most noteworthy resident corpse here belongs to popular
science-fiction writer Stanisław Lem. About a 25 minute walk
from the market square or take tram number 1 to Salwator and
enjoy the picturesque stroll up ul. Św. Broniswały.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Zakopane Cemetery
This amazingly unique cemetery makes a trip to Zakopane
during All Souls’ more than worthwhile. Here, more than
anywhere else in the commercialized centre, the spirit of
the old Zakopane still exists, embracing the landscape and
becoming an extension of it. Gone are the mournful, above-
ground granite slabs of Kraków’s cemeteries. Instead each
plot resembles a little garden, with flowers not placed, but
growing around the organic adornments of stones and
boulders, wooden crosses and whittled headstones – each
one an original example of highlander folk art. Incredibly
intimate and peaceful, the effect of this very green graveyard
is positively uplifting. The Old Cemetery is located behind St.
Clement’s church on ul. Kościeliska, or visit the larger New
Cemetery on ul. Nowotarska; both are within easy walking
distance of the centre.
Chthonian Kraków
If you simply can’t get enough necrophilia, there’s no short-
age of tombs in town to decrypt (so to speak), starting with
the vaults beneath Wawel Cathedral. While Poland’s early
medieval monarchs have handsome sarcophagi within the
cathedral chapel itself, the monarchs of the 16th, 17th and
18th centuries were laid to graze in the royal vault beneath
the chapel. If you enjoy a bit of grave-chasing, the Wawel
royal crypts are where you’ll find Poland’s heaviest hitters
put down; some of the country’s greatest national heroes
have been venerated with a resting place among the royals,
including Józef Piłsudskiego (the punchiest of them all), Tade-
usz Kościuszko (freedom-fighter extraordinaire), poets Adam
Mickiewicz and Juliusz Słowacki (strong with a sensitive side)
and others. While the royal tombs are not an All Souls’ desti-
nation for most, they’ll nonetheless give you goose-bumps by
virtue of being extremely cold, clammy and cloyingly creepy.
Open November 2nd 13:30 – 16:00, 10/5zł.
Few places in Kraków are as eerily atmospheric as the
grounds of the Skałka sanctuary in Kazimierz. Here, at dusk,
a daily mist shrouds the gothic surroundings as wraithlike
monks in white robes scurry through the fog. It was this an-
cient site that bore witness to one of Poland’s most infamous
and grisly crimes, and in keeping with the spirit of things,
we’ll recount the tale in brief. Critical of King Bołesław the
Bold’s harsh rule, Krakowian Bishop Stanisław Szczepański
excommunicated the king. Bołesław, so outraged by the
bishop’s insubordination, had Szczepański beheaded and
quartered upon the Skałka steps in 1079. A resultant
curse fell upon the royal family, symbolically effecting the
partitioning of Poland by other empires; however, the body
miraculously rejoined itself – thus foreshadowing Poland’s
reunification. Stanisław was hailed a martyr by the Catholic
church and canonized, becoming a patron saint of Poland.
Saint Stanisław’s spring still flows behind the chapel at
Skałka and is fabled for its healing properties. The saint’s
blood can be seen where it splattered upon a stone nearby,
and the sword that performed the act now rests beside
the church altar. The Skałka crypt has become a sacred
burial place for distinguished Poles, including the tombs of
Stanisław Wyspiański, composer Karol Szymanowski, and
most recently, Nobel prize-winning poet Czesław Miłosz. The
crypt will be open during All Souls’ from 10:00-18:00 and
shouldn’t be missed by anyone still reading this.
Which brings us, finally, to the mummified monks of the Re-
formed Franciscans’ Church at ul. Reformacka 4. Those with
a real fetish for the fetid can request special permission to
enter the church’s crypt on November 2nd or 3rd, wherein a
special microclimate has preserved the bodies of the monks
down to the hairs of their earlobes. Look, don’t touch, and
don’t tell them we sent you. Happy harrowing.
(+48 12) 37 41 352
12 QUICK PICKS
Kraków condensed
Eat
Local Plant yourself in front of one of the open windows
at Miód Malina (see page 76) and feast on a superb
line up of local delicacies. The tight little tables of
Bar Smak (see page 71) are full of locals munching
cheap local grub, while for a more upmarket Polish
food experience try Poezja Smaku (p 78), as did
Prince Edward when he was in town. Of the newbies,
none stand out more than the excellent Wesele in
the middle of town (p 78).
Cheap For a relatively cheap al fresco bite Bambus (see
page 81) serves just about the cheapest food on the
Rynek. For seriously good value however, nowhere
beats Bagelmama (see page 47), a pocket sized
venue where bagels come prepared by a chap who
cooks for McEnroe. The burritos aren’t bad either and
come priced at 15zl. For more of meal than a simple
feed try Bar Smak (see page 71) on Karmelicka.
Lads & Rooster (see page 47) remains the default choice
Stags for groups of lads, primarily because of the assets
the waitresses have on display 24/7. Food is good
though, uncomplicated and big burgers, pastas and
ribs. For a more local feed try Pod Wawelem (see
page 55) where huge portions of meat are served
up with side dishes of more meat, enough to make
the most Neanderthal of visitors consider a light
salad for his next meal.
Splurge We like the Surf & Turf buffet at the Radisson’s
Milk & Co (see page 53), and if that isn’t expensive
enough why not try the Pod Winogranami at the Pałac
Bonerowski hotel (see page 55). For upmarket and
expensive Polish food try Wierzynek (see page 78).
Families Take the nippers to Sioux (see page 47) where they
will fall in love with the wild west décor and friendly
staff in cowboy and Indian outfits. There is a chil-
dren’s menu too. Likewise at Rooster (see page 47)
where there are also toys for kids, a well segregated
non-smoking section and plenty of stunning wait-
resses for Dad to fall in love with.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Drink
Locals still swear by the fading charms of CK Browar
(see page 86), though we have long thought it past its
sell by date. It does have a big, busy terrace though.
Much more preferable is sitting on one of the better
terraces of the Rynek, such as Bar 13 (see page
81). Meet a richer class of local at Loza Klub Aktora,
further round the square (p 82). In Kazimierz head to
Propaganda to re-live the days of Socialist Paradise
(p 96), or mix with the theatre crowd in venues like
Singer (p 96) and Alchemia (p 94).
Everywhere on the Rynek has been hijacked by
venues with their gun barrels pointed at the tourist.
Everywhere that is except Vis-à-vis (see page 90) a
scummy venue where the air is filled with smoke and
curses. If you want something just a little less bottom-
of-the-market try the metallic charms of Mechanoff
in Kazimierz (see page 95).
The number of places putting up the ‘no stags’ signs
is growing by the day. In practice though we have never
seen anyone turned away, and the signs are more for
show than much else. Places which actively welcome
groups of lads include the Irish Mbassy (see page
90), where plasma screens show live sports and the
staff are used to boisterous behaviour, and Prozak
(see page 93), a supremely naff meat market popular
with local girls who like foreign boys.
Posh drinks can be taken in the lobby bar of the Hotel
Stary (see page 90), or on just about any terrace on
the Rynek: none of them – Vis-à-vis excepted - are
anything approaching cheap. Paparazzi is not the
den of stars the name suggests but serves some
reassuringly expensive cocktails, and champagne
(see page 87).
Though you are unlikely to want to take the kids to
the pub, older children might want to watch a match,
and you might want somewhere to relax while they
play. Fortunately, Kraków has plenty of options for
both. For live sports with kids, try Someplace Else
(see page 47), a decent, stag-party free environment,
or Nic Nowego (p 54) To chill out with a coffee while
the kids play head to the incomparable Café Bar
Lodziarnia, with its huge indoor playground and ice
cream parlour (p 81).
Sleep
Local Do it in style by booking into the an-
tique den that is Pod Rózą (see page
28), or keep costs down by bunking
down at the Kolory B&B (p 41), a
simple space where lodgings are
brightened with alarmingly cheesy
local handicrafts. You could also of
course live like a local and simple
book yourself an apartment for a
few days (there is a list of companies
renting apartments on page 40).
Cheap Nathan’s Villa (see page 44) is still
the best hostel in town, though it is
not the cheapest. That honour goes
to Oleandry YHA Hostel (see page
44), but comes with dreaded curfew
and more bunk beds per square
metre than can possible be spared
the description fire risk.
Lads & If you are touring in numbers and
Stags want to do it in style then go for the
Sheraton (see page 26), which has
the added benefit of hosting the
peerless Someplace Else (see page
47). A cheaper option would be the
Ibis (see page 33), or the more cen-
tral Campanile (see page 30).
Splurge The Sheraton (see page 26) and
the Grand (see page 25) both have
suites that top the €1000 per night
mark, with the Presidential suite at
the Hotel Stary (p 26) and apart-
ments at the Palac Bonerowski (p
25) also coming close.
Families Kraków hotels have a nasty habit of
charging extra for any kids over the
age of about three hours, a disgrace
in our book but a fact of life here.
Instead, avoid hotels altogether and
head for an apartment. There are
plenty on page 40 to choose from,
and besides allowing you to squeeze
as many offspring into the bed as you
can at no extra cost, they also have
kitchens etc., handy for warming up
milk or making early breakfasts.
QUICK PICKS
See
Poles come to Kraków for two things:
one is to follow the trail of John Paul II,
the other is to visit Wawel (see page
108). Wawel is the defining symbol of
Polish patriotism as well as home to
fire breathing beasts. Large numbers
of Polish Jews visit the city en route to
Auschwitz (see page 115).
If you hack it up to the top of every
tower and visit every museum then
sightseeing in Kraków can get expen-
sive very quickly. Do your homework
then and check when museums are
free (most have at least one free ses-
sion a week), which churches forego
admission charges for the faithful and
what sights are free all year round.
The joy of Kraków is often just walking
around, and that costs nowt.
Amble on up to Wawel Castle (see
page 108) to get rid of that hang-
over, before ambling down again
via the Dragon’s Den. Else take a
Trabant Tour of the city, a rollicking
and informative laugh (see www.
crazyguides.com).
If you want to part with your money
quickly jump in a horse drawn carriage
on Rynek and have yourself driven
all over town for the day. Is there any
other way to travel? Fans of opulence
should visit the Royal Private Apart-
ments up in Wawel (see page 109)
for an idea of how money was spent
centuries ago.
Take the kids to Wawel, where even if
the charms of the cathedral and Royal
Apartments might be lost on them,
the adventure that is the Dragon’s
Den will not. Kids usually like climb-
ing towers, and Kraków has two: in
St. Mary’s Cathedral (see page 106)
and the Town Hall Tower on the other
side of Sukiennice (see page 110).
Kraków’s zoo is good but difficult to
get to (it is in the middle of Las Wolski,
a small wood some distance from the
city centre. Take tram 15 to the stop
on the corner of Piłsudskiego and
Krasińskiego, then bus 134, which
stops close to the zoo entrance.
13
Do
Buy a bottle of cheap vodka
and get blind drunk is what we
suggest. Any bar will do, and
there’s plenty to choose from
in our By Night section.
Walk the full circumference of
Planty Park: it is free and a joy
any time of day or night. Don’t
forget your Kraków Tourist
Card either (see page 131):
for an outlay of 50-60zł you
get free admission to some
museums as well as free
travel on buses and trams.
Fire off dangerous weapons,
get chased though forests by
rabid dogs, watch your mate
get kidnapped by mafia nut-
cases. All these glorious ways
to kill time await if you get in
touch with the people at Crazy
Stag (www.crazystag.com).
Go shopping. A walk along
ulica Grodzka is enough to
reveal plenty of designer
stores, while Kazimierz hous-
es a number of fine art galler-
ies and antique shops. You
should also be able to spend
a fortune at the Galeria Kra-
kowska (see page 134).
Buy provisions in a super-
market (there is a Carrefour
in the Galeria Krakowska
if you can’t find one) and
head out to Jordan Park for
a picnic, before returning to
town to join one of the many
evening cycle tours of the
city. The day trip to Wieliczka
Salt Mine (see page 121)
is another family favourite,
while Kościuszko Mound (see
page 105) fascinates visitors
of all ages.
October - November 2008
14 ARRIVING BASICS 15

Arriving by bus Arriving by train Basic data City Card

International buses arrive and depart from the brand new
terminal (Dworzec autobusowy) at ul. Bosacka (E-1). There’s
a exchange bureau (kantor), open 08:30 - 17:30, as well as
an ATM (bankomat). Payphones can be found in the main
building, and you can buy phone cards from the newsagents.
Here you can also buy pre-paid cards and SIM cards for your
mobile. Lockers for left luggage cost 4-8zł depending on the
size for 24hrs, and there are also larger lockers available if
you’re lugging skiing gear or golf clubs. The bus station is
right next to the train station so exactly the same rules apply
for getting to town.
Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. 012 393 52 52. Q Ticket Office
Open 06:00-21:00.
Arriving by car
For the time being there’s only one major highway leading
into Krakow via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt
doesn’t come free. A 6,50zł toll is paid when you enter and
exit the motorway. The bottleneck doesn’t begin until you get
into Krakow. If heading to the centre, be aware that parking
is quite a chore.
Arriving by plane
John Paul II Kraków Balice Air-
port (Port lotniczy w Krakowie
Balicach imieniem Jana Pawła
II ) is modern and easy to
navigate, though not without
its pitfalls. On arrival you’ll find
a 24hrs currency exchange of-
fice as well as a clutch of ATMs
(bankomat), as well as a helpful if limited tourist information
point; you won’t be able to buy phone cards or train tickets,
though they will be able to provide you with the next best thing:
an In Your Pocket mini guide. There is no left luggage facility
at the airport, and note that while there are payphones you’ll
need to buy a chip card (karta telefoniczna) from one of the
newsagents to operate them.
The best way to get into town is to take the quick and frequent
shuttle train to Kraków Główny. A free blue bus directly outside
the terminal takes you to the airport’s new train station (you
can walk in five minutes). Tickets are purchased from the
conductor, and cost 6zł. The service runs every 30 minutes
throughout the day, and the shuttle bus service is timed to
coincide with departing trains.
For those who can’t be doing with public transport, honest
The main railway station (Dworzec Główny) is conveniently
situated at the northern tip of the Old Town, and is just a hop, Territory
skip and a jump from civilization. From the platform simply Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
follow the herd down the stairs and you’ll find yourself in the and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
main station building. A Euronet ATM (bankomat) lurks in the Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea
tunnel, and you’ll find a PKO ATM and ‘Cash For You’ ATM in the (528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km),
main hall. The tunnel also houses a Tourist Information point Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian
(open 06:00 - 22:00). These guys have the usual display of exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and,
pamphlets, can organize tours and stock In Your Pocket. Both Ukraine (529km).
sections of the station - the subterranean tunnel and the main
hall - have left luggage lockers. A large piece of luggage will cost Longest River
8zł for one day, and a small one 4zł. Make sure you have change. Kraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it
Payphones can be found dotted around, though you will need is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk
to find a phonecard from a newsagent to use them. (Zatoka Gdańska).
Taxis stand outside the main entrance, as well as on the top Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
floor car park. In spite of the proximity to the Old Town you’ll
still find yourself charged about 10zł to get to the centre. Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and
Buses and trams stop outside Galeria Krakowska, with tickets the city lies 219m above sea level.
priced at 2.50zł. Buy them from newsagents, kiosks or from
the self-service machines at the stop themselves. Population (2007)
Most people however (unless they are weighed down by lug- Poland 38,126,000
gage) choose to walk into the Old Town, where most of the Warsaw 1,702,139
city’s hotels and hostels are. Just follow the signs for ‘wyjście Kraków 756,267
do centrum,’ or to Galeria Krakowska. From there you’ll find Łódź 755,251
Wrocław 634,630
yourself deposited in a large granite floored plaza right in front
of the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska. Continue down Poznań 564,951
until you reach a subway which leads under ul. Basztowa/ul. Gdańsk 456,658
Westerplatte and you’ll find yourself in the Old Town. Katowice 314,500
Sopot 40,666
Main Railway Station (Dworzec Główny) E-2, Pl.
Jana Nowaka-Jeziorańskiego 3, tel. 012 393 15 80, Local time
www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 24hrs. Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo.
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the
Send a superb last Sundays of March and October.
memory of Kraków Twin Towns
Bordeaux, Bratislava, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes, Flor-
ence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck, Kyiv, La Serena,
- a postcard containing a CD with Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Nuremberg, Orléans, Pecs,
over 200 photos of the city. Rochester, NY, Seville, Solothurn, Vilnius, Zagreb
Booze
If you buy into urban my th Kraków has the highest con-
centration of pubs in the world (approximately 400 within
the confines of the old town). While Polish beer elicits
mixed reports from the foreign community, Polish vodka
stands alongside the best, and the country is rightfully
seen as the ancient home of the wicked sauce. The
The enterprising tourist
should consider picking
up the Kraków Card, a
superb piece of plastic
that allows you free trav-
el on trams and buses,
day and night. The best
bit though is free entry
to 30 Kraków museums, an impressive saving for the
serious tourist. Two and three day cards are available,
priced at 50 and 65 złoty respectively and they are valid
until midnight on the day indicated on the reverse. Every
venue listed in our guide which accepts the Kraków Card
has been marked with a symbol. For a full list of ven-
dors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
your cash expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and
the company of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Those resisting
arrest will find themselves strapped down to a bed, One Flew
Over The Cuckoo’s Nest-style. Refreshment comes in the
form of limitless coffee, though the mug it comes in will smell
of urine for a reason. Credit cards not accepted.
Climate
Poland has a temperate climate with hot summers and cold
winters. Seasons tend to be more pronounced than in the
west and temperatures can get down as low as -20 C in winter
and as high as +30 C in summer. The coldest weather tends
to hit around February although the last couple of winters
have been fairly mild.
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now
take 10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most
countries will not allow more than 200 cigarettes from
Poland. A work of art produced before 1945 is classified
as a ‘cultural good’ and must be authorised before it can
leave the country. If the gallery or shop can’t supply the
zaświadczenie (permission) when you buy the artwork,
check with the Wojewódzki Konserwator Zabytków (Re-
gional Curator’s Office). If a book was printed before 1945,
you’ll need permission from the National Library to take
it out of Poland.
Climate
80
Rainfall
20

MPT 9191 taxis stand outside the main entrance to the elite brands are commonly accepted as being Chopin 70
Temperature
18

airport and will charge you between 60-70zł to make the and Bel vedere, though those who fancy themsel ves 16

17km journey into the city. The price goes up by 50 per cent as connoisseurs of mixology should tr y swallowing a 60

between 22:00 - 06:00. Be wary of cowboy taxi operators tatanka - a sweet blend of Żubrówka vodka (produced 14

and only use cabs that have meters, signs on the roof and with a blade of bison grass in the bottle) and apple juice.

Temperature (°C)
50
12

Rainfall (mm)
their telephone number clearly on display. Drunks hankering for something a little more fiery should 40 10

look no further than ordering Mad Dog (Wściekły Pies) -

If arriving from another city in Poland, note that the domestic a mix of vodka, Tabasco and raspberry juice; it’ll leave
8
30

terminal is a ten minute walk from the main terminal building; you seeing stars. One more to look for, and a specialty 6

it is not all that well sign posted. While MPT 9191 taxis usu- hailing from Gdańsk is Goldwasser - a sweetish vodka
20

ally meet domestic flights, you will need to walk to the main sprinkled with goldleaf. 10
2
terminal for all other transport options. But stand warned: Polish beer and vodka are rocket fuel. If
you’re determined to make a prat of yourself then make sure 0 0

John Paul II Krakow Balice Airport (Port Lotniczy Available in souvenir stores and information it’s not in front of the law. A trip to Kraków’s premier drunk tank
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,

Kraków Balice im. Jana Pawła II) ul. Medweckiego points around the Market Square. (ul. Rozrywka 1 - which literally translates as Entertainment www.imgw.pl
1, tel. 012 295 58 00, www.krakowairport.pl. Street) will set you back 250zl for a 12 hour stay. In return for

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

16 BASICS BASICS 17

the natives will assume a stance as far as possible from the

Market values next man, often leading to confusion who is and who isn’t National holidays Language smarts
queuing in the first place. Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite January 1 New Year’s Day
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
increases over the last couple of years particularly in March 23, 2008 Easter Sunday
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday Religion March 24, 2008 Easter Monday
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
products and prices. For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of May 1 Labour Day the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
Market values as of 22nd September 2008 Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791) reasonable understanding.
May 11, 2008 Pentecost Sunday Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
based on €1 = 3.27zł and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and national result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many May 22, 2008 Corpus Christi
Product Price (zł) Price (€) flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
turned to the church for solace and during the communist era, August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary also your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
McDonald’s Big Mac 6.90zł €2.11 Polish Army Day
Snickers 1.40zł €0.43 underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously held in On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
churches. The deceased Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains November 1 All Saints’ Day help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 25.00zł €7.65 November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918) of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
0.5ltr local beer (shop) 3.00zł €0.92 a genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a
December 25 First Day of Christmas English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00zł €2.14 way more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may December 26 Second Day of Christmas Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
Loaf of white bread 1.50zł €0.46
20 Marlboros 7.95zł €2.43 find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, particularly ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
1 ltr of unleaded petro (98) 4.99zł €1.53 the solemn and opulent processions that occur from time to ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
time and the droves that flock to mass. being major investors in the economy. Those gunning for a ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.40zł €0.73 Basic pronunciation of consonants
lung-busting taste of a traditional local brand should keep
‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
Safety their eyes peeled for brands like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and ‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
Electricity In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and
Meski. Bear in mind that it is taken as bad luck to light your
snout off a candle, especially if you are close to the coast;
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
Electricity in Poland is 220V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are round visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does an action which apparently guarantees the death of a sailor. ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
with two round-pin sockets. Therefore if you are coming from exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets Unlike other EU countries Poland is yet to introduce a ban on ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
the UK or Ireland you are definitely going to need a plug con- working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re smoking in bars and restaurants, and so far no plans have ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
verter. The best place to pick these up is at home though if in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser been formally announced to do so. ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
you do arrive without a converter try your luck with your hotel pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
reception. Either that or head out to one of the big electrical
outlets such as Saturn.
brevity and dexterity of Kraków’s criminal community has
led to a spate of thefts from unattended coats and jackets. Toilets r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Generally speaking toilets in Poland come marked with a circle
Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
Money Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially
on the routes connecting Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book
for women, and a triangle for men. Although the habit is gradu-
ally dying some restaurants and bars still charge a nominal you started.
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by op- fee for use of their facilities - no matter how much cash you’ve Civilities
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, portunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something already spent in the establishment. This is a practice also cześć (cheshch) hi/bye
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar, to bear in mind around the train station and airport. used in train stations and most public conveniences. Keep dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/
will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying as coins small change handy. afternoon
dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
can be, do carry small change for such moments. Notes come
Smoking dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10 złotys, and there
are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty equals 100 groszy which Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be Visas tak
nie
(tahk)
(nyeh)
yes
no
come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 groszy coins. delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce Poland’s entrance into the EU has seen changes galore to visa proszę (prosheh) please
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number requirements. Members of the EU, and citizens of Australia, na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you of male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population New Zealand, Canada and the US can now enter Poland without przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using down to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco a visa and stay for a period of three months (British citizens kocham cię (koham tshe) I love you
your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than friendly country. Poland is fast becoming the major European can stay for six months). Visas are obligatory for citizens of any Mam ma imię (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
the banks in your home country or the ATM although for production centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip country which does not have an agreement with Poland - you’ll Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, Morris, Imperial Tobacco and British American Tobacco all find a relevant list available at www.msz.gov.pl. Visas are not Necessities
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around available at airports or land or sea borders and therefore must Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has be procured from a Polish consulate outside of Poland. Although
been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of Quick currency convertor there is no set price standard cost is 35Euro and waiting time
Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku? pan/panee po
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% is usually 14 days. Again, visas issued apply for 30 or 90 days. angyelskoo?)
PLN US$ Euro Pound Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish
less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years Since October 21, 2007 Poland has been a member of the polsku polskoo)
back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues 2.28zł = $1 3.27zł = €1 4.15zł = £1 Schengen agreement leading to the elimination of border posts Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh Please write it down
and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to 1 zł $0,44 € 0,31 £0,24 and between member countries. Currently this applies to land napeesatch)
Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely 2 zł $0,88 € 0,61 £0,48 crossings, with airports due to fall into line on March 31, 2008. Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here?
cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums 3 zł $1,32 € 0,92 £0,72 Those wishing to apply for residency are required to visit the paleech?)
costs around 5-10zł. 4 zł $1,75 € 1,22 £0,96 local Urzad Wojewódzki office no later that 45 days before your Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please
5 zł $2,19 € 1,53 £1,20 poproszę prosheh)
visa expires. A short term residency issue can then be issued.
6 zł $2,63 € 1,83 £1,45
Queuing 7 zł $3,07 € 2,14 £1,69
Those looking to work in Poland must apply for permission from
the Voivodeship Work Office. The process allegedly takes 14
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
Years of practice during the cold war era has meant that the 8 zł $3,51 € 2,45 £1,93 days though can take longer depending on the office. 2 dwa dva
Poles have truly mastered the art of the queue: more to the 9 zł $3,95 € 2,75 £2,17 3 trzy tshi
10 zł $4,39 € 3,06 £2,41 10 dziesięć jayshench
point, the art of queue barging. Whether you find yourself
at a ticket counter, or your nearest KFC, do not make the 20 zł $8,77 € 6,12 £4,82 Water General
mistake of being patient. ‘I’m late for something, can I go first’ 50 zł $21,93 € 15,29 £12,05 Not a problem in new buildings, but clapped out plumbing Airport lotnisko
100 zł $43,86 € 30,58 £24,10 Train station dworzec pkp
is a common ploy used to fool foreigners into giving up their in the older places mean that you shouldn’t be surprised if
150 zł $65,79 € 45,87 £36,14 Bus station dworzec pks
place in a line. Old people in particular seem to assume that orange gunk comes pouring out of the tap. In general Kraków Right/left prawo/lewo
200 zł $87,72 € 61,16 £48,19
they should by rights be able to take position at the head of water is safe to drink though it tastes nasty and occasion- One ticket to jeden bilet do
250 zł $109,65 € 76,45 £60,24
a line. The only time when the common rules of etiquette 1 000 zł $438,60 € 305,81 £240,96 ally looks worse. No problems are associated with using it First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
seem to apply are in banks or outside ATMs, at which point to brush your teeth.

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

18 HISTORY
Archaeological evidence shows that there were settlements
in the Kraków area as early as the Paleolithic period, making
it one of Poland‘s oldest cities. Evidence of a settlement on
Wawel Hill dates back to 50,000BC.
1st-4th century
Kraków settlers trade with the Roman Empire.
9th century
Pagan Vistulan settlers in Kraków are conquered by the Great
Moravian Empire.
11th century
Kraków becomes an important centre of the Polish state
following the establishment of a bishopric and completion of
the city‘s first cathedral. Casimir the Restorer makes Kraków
the capital of Poland.
12th century
Boleslaus the Wrymouth‘s testament divides the Polish state
into separate and sovereign principalities, granting Kraków
the status of suzerain province.
13th century
Starting in 1241 and spanning the next 40 years, the Tatars
invade Poland three times. Towards the end of the century
defensive walls are built around Kraków.
14th century
From 1333-70 Kazimierz III the Great (1310-70) reigns and
Wawel Castle is rebuilt in Gothic style. The University of
Kraków, later to become the Jagiellonian University, is founded
in 1364. The marriage of Queen Jadwiga and King Jagiello
starts off more than four centuries of a jointly governed Polish-
Lithuanian state.
15th century
Polish-Lithuanian forces defeat Teutonic Knights at the Battle
of Grunwald (Tannenberg) in 1410, thereby stopping the Ger-
man eastward expansion.
17th century
In 1596, King Sigismund Vasa moves the royal court from
Kraków to Warsaw.
18th century
Austria, Prussia and Russia impose the first par tition
of Poland in 1772-73. The constitution of May 3, 1791,
restores hereditary monarchy and reforms the political
system. The constitution is the second democratic con-
stitution in the world (after the USA‘s), but is shortlived.
Prussia and Russia carry out a second partition of Poland
in 1792-93. One year later, in 1795, Austria, Prussia and
Russia impose a third partition of Poland and Kraków
becomes part of Austria.
19th century
Bet ween 1807-15, Napoleon establish es th e semi-
independent Duchy of Warsaw which includes Kraków. After
Napoleon‘s defeat and the Congress of Vienna in 1815,
Poland is partitioned anew with a large part going to Russia.
The Republic of Kraków is established as an independent
entity for a short period between 1815-1846, but the city is
eventually absorbed into the Austrian partition.
20th century
After WWI, partitioned powers collapse and the independent
Second Polish Republic arises. In 1918, the Austrian army
in Kraków disarms and Poland regains independence on
November 11 after 146 years of foreign occupation. WWII
begins in 1939 with the September 1 invasion of Poland by
Nazi Germany and the September 17 invasion by the Soviet
Union. On September 6, 1939, the Nazis take over and begin
their occupation in Kraków. On November 6, Jagiellonian Uni-
versity professors and other Kraków intellectuals are arrested
and transported to the Sachsenhausen concentration camp.
In 1941, the Jewish ghetto in Kazimierz is established. From
1945, Kraków undergoes ‘Sovietisation‘. All property and
businesses are nationalised, organised religion comes under
attack and opposition leaders are imprisoned.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Rafał Drząszcz
Post-war Poland
The history of post-war Poland through 1989 consists of the
distribution of power by the USSR to chosen individuals and
the Soviets‘ attempt to maintain their hold. Poland, however,
did not take well to Soviet domination, as even Stalin said
that implementing communism in Poland was like trying to
put a saddle on a cow. The effect was a constant effort by
the Poles to claim and practice their independence. Poland,
for example, is the only formerly Communist-reigned country
whose religious practices and churches weren‘t severed,
restricted or all together destroyed. The beauty of Kraków is
tarnished by forced industrialization such as the monstrous
steelworks of Nowa Huta (New Factory) constructed in the
late 1940s. The factory and surrounding blocks of workers‘
residences, built on top of Kraków‘s best farming soil, is the
USSR‘s obvious attempt to undermine Kraków‘s cultural and
religious intelligence.
1981 General Wojciech Jaruzelski declares martial law
and carries out a military takeover in the name of the Com-
munist party.
1982 Solidarność is banned and its leadership imprisoned.
Other union activists are forced underground.
1983 Martial law is lifted and imprisoned Solidarność
leaders are released. Lech Wałęsa receives the Nobel
Peace Prize.
1989 Round Table talks produce a formula for power-
sharing between the communists and Solidarność. Partly
free elections result in sweeping Solidarność victories and
the communist regime crumbles, making Poland the first
country to leave the Soviet block. Lech Wałęsa becomes
the first popularly elected post-communist president of
Poland.
1991 The Warsaw Pact alliance is dissolved.
1999 Poland, Hungary and the Czech Republic join NATO. Prior
to the papal visit to Poland, the authorities forcibly remove
more than 300 Catholic crosses erected near Auschwitz
concentration camp. Thousands flock to see 79-year-old
Pope John Paul II who visits his homeland for the eighth time.
In Kraków, he pays a visit to his parents‘ grave and celebrates
mass under Wawel cathedral.
2000 Kraków‘s Andrzej Wajda wins an Oscar (displayed in
the University Museum) for lifetime achievement. Aleksander
Kwaśniewski is elected for his second term as president of
Poland.
2002 August 2.5 million people gather on Kraków‘s Błonie
field to witness a mass with Pope John Paul II.
2004 May 1 Poland joins the European Union
2005 April 2 Following a long battle with illness Pope John Paul
II passes away, plunging Poland into national mourning.
CULTURE & EVENTS
Poland is an increasingly important centre of culture,
and artisans, performers and musicians from all over the
world now regularly arrive here to showcase their various
talents. From art house sculptors to top-name bands, In
Your Pocket is dedicated to bringing news of these events
to as wide an audience as possible. Besides the listings
on the print guide, we also regularly update our website
with all the news and events as they reach us, sometimes
after our print guide has gone to press. For the latest
event information make www.inyourpocket.com the first
place you visit.
Cinemas
Polish cinemas show most of the big international
releases in the original language with Polish subtitles. Be
warned though that most kids’ films (and that includes
cartoons like South Park) are dubbed.
Cinema City L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. 012 290 90 90,
www.cinema-city.pl. New cinema complex with comfy seats
and lots of food. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.
Tickets 14-22zł.
Cinema under the Rams (Kino pod Baranami) C-3,
Rynek Główny 27, tel. 012 423 07 68, www.kinopod-
baranami.pl. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.
Tickets 10-18zł.
Kraków Cinema Centre ARS C-3, ul. Św. Jana 6, tel.
012 421 41 99, www.ars.pl. Q Box office open depending
on repertoire. Tickets 11-16zł.
Multikino L-1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel. 012 376
43 10, www.multikino.pl. Q Box office open depending
on repertoire. Tickets 14-22zł.
Orange IMAX L-2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. 012 290 90 90,
www.kinoimax.pl. A gigantic new screen showing IMAX
and 3D films. Q Box office open depending on repertoire.
Tickets 18-21zł.
Cultural centres
British Council C-3, ul. Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 428
59 30, www.britishcouncil.pl. Resources for English-
speakers in addition to an English language school. QOpen
08:30 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe Institute (Instytut Goethego) C-3, Rynek
Główny 20, tel. 012 422 69 02, www.goethe.de/
krakau. Host of language courses, classical music con-
certs, films and a German-language library. QOpen 10:00
- 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Library Open
Mon, Wed 11:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 13:00 - 18:00. Closed
Fri, Sat, Sun.
International Cultural Centre (Międzynarodowe
Centrum Kultury) C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. 012 424
28 00, www.mck.krakow.pl. Temporary art exhibitions
usually fill the gallery here. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. Admission free.
John Paul II Centre (Centrum Jana Pawła II) C-5,
ul. Kanonicza 18, tel. 012 429 64 71, www.janpawel2.
pl. Promoting Catholic culture… just in case you forgot about
it in Kraków. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Jordan Youth Centre (Centrum Młodzieży im.
H. Jordana) C-1, ul. Krowoderska 8, tel. 012 430 00
25, www.cmjordan.krakow.pl. Although the programs
generally cater to Polish youth, they do occasionally put on
interesting film festivals. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun.
Judaica Foundation E-7, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. 012 430
64 49, www.judaica.pl. A civic and cultural centre hosting
lectures and exhibits reflecting Jewish life past and present.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
19
Dworek Białoprądnicki
DworekBiałoprądnicki
Cultural Centre (Cen-
trum Kultury Dworek
Białoprądnicki) ul.
Papiernicza 2 (Kr o-
wodrza), tel. 012 415
02 00, w w w.dworek.
krakow.pl. A magnificent
piece of architecture just
outside Kraków’s Old Town, Dworek Białoprądnicki was
built in the 16th century as a summer residence for the
Bishop of Kraków. Resembling a Renaissance villa, the
palace and estate quickly became a lively meeting ground
of diplomats, poets and thinkers. Restored in the 70s, it
has since enjoyed a return to its role as cultural centre
and meeting place for over thirty years. Occupying sev-
eral buildings, Dworek Białoprądnicki offers a variety of
cultural and educational activities for children, teens and
adults, including regular theatre performances, chamber
music concerts, puppet shows, photography and journal-
ism workshops, music lessons, film clubs and more. In
addition to three galleries , a professional music studio
and restaurant, the manor grounds are also a regular
meeting place of many organizations and host an innu-
merable amount of events. Q Box office open 08:00 -
17:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
16 October Palabra De
Musica Fuerte-Con-
cert ul. Papiernicza 2
(Krowodrza), tel. 012
415 02 00, w w w.
dworek.krakow.pl. In-
spired by the music of Astor Piazzolli, this group turned
their passion for Argentinean tango into a career. With most
of the compositions written by the group’s Marianna
Dąbek, they will also be energetically performing works by
Piazzolli and Galliano. Grip a rose between your teeth and
enjoy. Q Concert starts at 18:00. Admission free.
04 November Paulina
Bisztyga-Concert ul.
Papiernicza 2 (Kr o-
wodrza), tel. 012 415 02
00, w w w.dworek.kra-
kow.pl. A singer, songwriter
and composer, Paulina Bisz-
tyga was the first recipient
of Marek (The Great One) Grechuta’s scholarship, going on
to take awards at the FAMA festival and the Student Song
Festival. She will be performing work from her recently
completed album, Easy is the Law of Love. (We would tend
to disagree.) Q Concert starts at 19:00. Admission free.
Information & Tickets
City Information Point (Punkt Informacji
Miejskiej) C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. 012 421 77 87,
www.karnet.krakow.pl. Helpful people who can tell you
what’s going on and who can sell you tickets as well. It
publishes Karnet (4zł), a comprehensive monthly listing
of cultural events in Polish and English, as well as the free
yearly Karnet with an overview of major events in English.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
October - November 2008
20 CULTURE & EVENTS
Kraków Opera
Kraków Opera (Op-
era Krakowska) E-2,
ul. Lubicz 48, tel. 012
421 16 30, www.opera.
krakow.pl. The history of
Polish opera can probably
b e traced back to th e
early 17th century when
Royal Prince Władysław Zygmunt Waza, the future King
Władysław IV of Poland, returned from Florence having
been enchanted by the opera La liberazione di Ruggiero.
Less than three years later, in 1628, the translation of
Saracinelli’s libretto was published by one of Kraków’s
printers. The Opera Krakowska has existed, albeit under
several guises and aliases, since the late 19th century.
This year’s opera season will be a special one as the Op-
era Krakowska takes up residence in its new home on ul.
Lubicz, opening September 26th with Mr. Marimba-a spec-
tacle for children. November will witness the presentation
of Verdi’s Rigoletto and Soldier’s History by Igor Strawinsky,
and audiences will get the chance to see Penderecki’s
Devils from Loudon in December. The Opera’s annual new
year’s concert will consist of arias performed by Aleksandra
Kurzak , Andrzej Dobber and Adam Zdunikowski, before the
season closes with Madame Butterfly. Q Box office Open
10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu 13:00 - 18:00,
Sun 12:00 - 19:00. Tickets 13-150zł.
12-13 October The
Queen of Spades-Op-
era Based on the classic
Pushkin stor y of greed,
gamblin g, gh os ts an d
madness this spectacle
by Piotr Czajkowski has
successfully remained on
the world’s opera stages due to its emotional tension and
the extreme skill and endurance required to perform the
male vocal part. Q Opera starts at 18:30. Tickets 29-
100zł. Available at Kraków Opera box office.
24-25 October Mr
Marimba An opera about
and performed by children.
Only two adults take part in
this stor y of Kasia and
Marek who go on a rip
around he world with the
wizard Mr. Marimba in sear-
chof an enchanted song that has been stolen by a black-
bird and which introduces the cultures of Japan, Africa and
Mexico amongst others. Q 24/10 spectacle starts at
12:00, 25/10 at 17:00. Tickets 15-25zł. Available at
Kraków Opera box office.
16-17 November Rigoletto-Opera One of the
world’s most performed opera’s, Rigoletto was com-
posed by Giuseppe Verdi, based on a play by Victor Hugo,
and is conducted here by Tomasz Tokarczyk. However,
differing here from the Italian classic is a change of lead
perspective from the handsome master of the house,
to that of his poor, ugly servant. When the master goes
for the servant’s daughter, it’s love versus loyalty, and
inevitably...revenge. Q Opera starts at 18:30. Tickets
36-100zł. Available at Kraków Opera box office.
Photos: Kraków Opera: J. Wrzesiński
Kraków In Your Pocket
Dance & Music
Kraków Chamber Opera (Krakowska Opera
Kameralna) E-5, ul. Miodowa 15, tel. 012 430 66 06,
www.kok.art.pl. The beginnings of the Kraków Chamber
Opera can be traced back to 1991 although it didn’t find a
permanent place it could call home until 2000 during which
time they appeared around Poland and the world as guest
performers. They have been described by critics as ‘prob-
ably the most aesthetic and sophisticated theatre team
in Poland which appreciates good tone of music, costume
and vividness.’
The aims of the Chamber Opera are to present Polish and
International masterpieces while respecting tradition and
maintaining high standards of artistry and precision and
nurturing the spoken and sung word. Check their website
for current schedule and other details.Q Box office Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets
15-80zł.
Opera Stage in Juliusz Słowacki Theatre (Teatr
im. Juliusza Słowackiego) D-2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1,
tel. 012 421 16 30, www.slowacki.krakow.pl. Q
Box office Open 09:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00, Mon 10:00
- 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00, Sun depending on reper toire.
Tickets 16-50zł.
Orfeusz Artistic Agency ul. Tysiąclecia 10/20,
tel. 662 007 255, www.orfeusz.eu. Formed in 2000,
the Orfeusz Artistic Agency aims to organise and promote
cultural events with particular emphasis on classical music
concerts in wonderful venues around Krakow. For their
upcoming events check out their English language web-
site. Q Box office open one hour before the spectacle.
Tickets 35-40zł.
Galleries
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery (Galeria Autorska
Andr zeja Mleczki) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 14, tel.
012 421 71 04, www.mleczko.pl. Anti-clerical, anti-
establishment and very funny cartoons by Mr. Mleczko.
Q Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Admission free.
Artemis Gallery E-5, ul. Poselska 15, tel. 012 422
03 94. Comtemporary art gallery with changing exhibitions.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission free.
Bunkier Sztuki B-3, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel. 012
422 10 52, w w w.bunkier.com.pl. One of th e few
ver y modern buildings in the Old Town dedicated to
the most challenging painting and sculpture for moody
contemplation. Changing exhibitions are held in the main
gallery on the ground floor and exhibition catalogues are
sold in the small bookshop on the mezzanine. Q Open
11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion 6/3zł.
Dominik Rostworowski Gallery C-3, ul. Św. Jana
20/11, tel. 012 423 21 51, www.rostworowski.art.pl.
Upmarket cellar gallery displaying contemporary paintings
and sculptures. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun. Admission free.
Gołogórski Gallery (Galeria Gołogórski) C-4, ul.
Grodzka 29, tel. 012 421 44 19, www.gologorski.dt.pl.
Contemporary art. Paintings by Witold Pałka, Lola Fischer,
Eugeniusz Mucha, Józef Czapski and sculptures by Marian
Gołogórski. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Jan Fejkiel Gallery C-4, ul. Grodzka 65, tel. 012 429
15 53, www.fejkielgallery.com. Contemporary graphics,
drawings. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
CULTURE & EVENTS 21
Labyrinth (Labir ynt) D-3, ul. Floriańska 36,
tel. 012 292 60 80, w w w.galerialabir ynt.and.
pl. Avan t-garde pain tin gs, sculptures, ph otograph s
and graphics in two locations. Also on ul. Józefa 15.
Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sun. Admission free.
Nova H-2, ul. Kochanowskiego 10 (entrance from the
courtyard), tel. 0 693 40 46 08, www.nova.art.pl. Art
gallery with changing shows of modern, mostly realist, Polish
artists. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission
free.
Pauza Gallery (Galeria Pauza) C-2, ul. Floriańska
18/5, tel. 0 602 60 06 79, www.galeriapauza.pl. Q delicious f
food
od
d - excellent cocktails - live music - professional
siona
si
iona service
Open 15:00-21:00, Mon closed. Admission free.
Poster Gallery (Galeria Plakatu) C-3, ul. Stolarska
8-10, tel. 012 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.
com. Very cool Polish art posters. Spend a little more for
older communist-era works. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Starmach Gallery J-4, ul. Węgierska 5, tel. 012 656
43 17, www.starmach.eu. Two exhibition halls dedicated
to Polish art. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Ad-
mission free.
The Peculiarity Gallery ESTE (Galeria Osobliwości
ESTE) C-2, ul. Sławkowska 16, tel. 012 429 19 84,
www.este.krakow.pl. Graphic art, sculptures, drawings
and paintings. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. breakfast: 07.30 - 12.00,
Closed Sun. Admission free. lunch & dinner: 12.00 - 24.00
Turlej Gallery C-3, ul. Św. Jana 2, tel. 012 422 10 live music & dinner
55. The Turlej Gallery is dedicated to the promotion of
contemporary art and in particular master artists who
special offer 100 PLN p.p.
have never been presented in Poland before. It presents
a wide range of art works including painting, photography, PLAC SZCZEPAŃSKI 2 tel. 012 422 13 33
sculpture and architecture. The gallary is located in a
430-meter exhibition hall is situated in the spectacular
interior of a modernist building on Kraków’s Old Town
Square Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Admission 8/5zł. Family
ticket 17zł.
Ukrainian Art Gallery C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. 012
421 92 94. Permanent 19th-century icon exhibition and
changing temporary paintings by Ukrainian artists. QOpen
12:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admis-
sion free.
Wspólnota Polska C-3, Rynek Główny 14, tel. 012
422 43 55, www.swp.krakow.pl. Works by contemporary
Polish artists living abroad. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.
Theatre
Bagatela Theatre B-2, ul. Karmelicka 6, tel. 012
422 26 44, www.bagatela.pl. Q Box office Open 10:00
- 19:15, Sun from 17:00 to the beginning of spectacle.
Tickets 28-40zł.
Groteska Theatre A-3, ul. Skarbowa 2, tel. 012 633 48
22, www.groteska.pl. Q Box office Open: 08:00 - 12:00, 15:00
- 17:00, Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Tickets 13-25zł.
Juliusz Słowacki Theatre (Teatr im. Juliusza
Słowackiego) D-2, Pl. Św. Ducha 1, tel. 012 422 40
22, www.slowacki.krakow.pl. Q Box office Open 09:00
- 14:00, 14:30 - 19:00, Mon 10:00 - 14:00, 14:30 - 18:00,
Sun depending on repertoire. Tickets 16-50zł.
Old Theatre (Stary Teatr) C-3, ul. Jagiellońska 5, tel.
012 422 85 66, www.stary-teatr.pl. Q Box office Open
Tue-Sat 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and two hours before
the spectacle. Closed Mon. Tickets 11-50zł. Y
The STU Theatre (Krakowski Teatr Scena STU)
H-3, Al. Krasińskiego 16-18, tel. 012 422 27 44, www.
scenastu.com.pl. Q Box office open: 09:00 - 17:00; Sat,
Sun 2 hrs before performance. Tickets 50-100zł.
October - November 2008
22 CULTURE & EVENTS
Unsound festival
18-25 October
Unsound Festival
www.unsound.pl. First
organized five years ago,
this international festival
of mu si cal inn ova ti on
and experimentation (‘in-
novexperimentation’ as
we call it in the biz) has increasingly become a major
event in Kraków’s cultural calendar, each year more
ambitious than the previous. This year should be no
different with the special ‘Warhol Series’ (see below)
and a wide range of foreign artists texturing their mu-
sic with technological and electronic (‘technotronic’)
devices to perform a variety of genres from classical
to club music (including the fusion of the two called
‘clubsical’). Featured innovexperimenters this year will
include Michael Nyman (known for his Peter Greenway
film soundtracks), Max Richter, Skream, Benga, Pan
American, The Necks and a final night concert by Fuck
Buttons and Xiu Xiu, two of the fest’s most widely
known performers. Venues and ticket prices vary so
check the website for full programme details. Q Full
schedule available at www.unsound.pl. Tickets for
the whole festival 140zł, from Friday to Sunday 120zł.
Available at www.eventim.pl.
18-24 October
Warhol Series
(Unsound Festival),
www.unsound.pl. Pre-
pared especially for this
edition of the Unsound
festival, the Warhol Se-
ries will give a new con-
text to pop art guru Andy
Warhol’s film material by
accompanying it with live
original music and veejay work by Unsound artists at
various venues throughout the week. Of particular note
is Amos Poe’s modern reinvention of Warhol’s 8-hour
epic Empire, and Lillevan’s Screen Tests Revisited,
where Unsound audiences will be filmed using similar
aesthetic criteria as in Warhol’s famous Screen Tests
from his New York Factory. Again, check the website
for full details. Q Tickets 15zł. Available at www.
eventim.pl.
Audio Art Festival
21 November - 06 December Audio Art Fes-
tival, tel. 0 501 04 20 52, www.audio.art.pl. One
of Kraków’s most unique and unpredictable festivals,
the Audio Arts festival embraces the creation of new
concepts of sound. Open to interpretation, acts in the
festival often include elements of performance and
sound installation, the application of new meaning to an
object as a source of sound, or the invention of a new in-
strument altogether. Whatever it is, you are guaranteed
to see something truly original and spellbinding - not to
be missed. Check the website for specific programme
information as it is released.Q Ticket prices were
undecided at press time, please check the website for
updates as they happen.
Kraków In Your Pocket
October
02-05 October OFF Camera Festival , tel. 012 394
65 05, www.offcamera.com.pl. Poland’s first large format
event devoted to Polish and international independent film,
OFF Camera will present 120 films with over 350 screenings
in small art cinemas around Kraków. In addition to contem-
porary independent films from around the world, there will
be the chance to view older works that for one reason or
another (cough-cough-communism-hrm, excuse us) didn’t
make it into Polish theatres. Twelve selected films will com-
pete for a 100,000 euro purse, in addition to other slightly
inane competitions such as best film made on a mobile
phone. One of the most intriguing prospects of the festival
is an inexplicable performance by Andy Warhol’s long-time
muse - the controversial drag queen, Holly Woodlawn. Q
Full schedule available at www.offcamera.com.pl. Tickets
10-14zł. Available at www.bileteria.pl and Festival Center
(Rynek Główny 27, C-3).
11 October Pendragon-
Concert H-3, ul. Oleandry
1 (Rotunda Cultural Cen-
ter), tel. 012 633 61 60,
www.rotunda.pl. Pendragon
celebrate their 30th birthday
this year with a massive tour
in support of their new album,
Pure, including seven - get this - seven gigs throughout
Poland. One of the ‘legends of prog rock’ (haven’t you
heard?), Pendragon sounds something akin to Genesis fused
with Marillion - yay gods. In addition to tracks from their new
album these lads will be giving an airing to such classics as
Fly High, Fly Far. Pendragon. Seven nights, seven shows. For
you, Poland. For you. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
75-85zł. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Rotunda box office
(Open 10:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00. Sat, Sun depending on
repertoire).
25 October Ania
Dąbrowska-Concert H-3,
ul. Oleandr y 1 (Rotunda
Cultural Center), tel. 012
633 61 60, www.rotunda.pl.
Former star of Polish Idol, Ania’s
first album, Samotność po
zmierzchu (Loneliness After
Dark), was released in 2004
and went gold the same year. Two albums later, including this
year’s W spodniach czy w sukience? (In trousers or in dress?
) and she’s popular as ever. Her music has been described as
romantic, hearkening back to the 60s and 70s. Performing at
the Rotunda, this is a relatively cheap concert for someone
whose face and music is ubiquitous around Poland. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 30-60zł. Available at Rotunda box
office (Open 10:00-13:00, 16:00-19:00. Sat, Sun depending
on repertoire).
26 October Tango Sed-
ducion A-1, ul. Krupnicza 35,
tel. 022 696 99 00, www.
makroconcert.pl. Hail, hail the
return of Argentinean hero
Gustavo Russo, back in Kraków
with a new programme and
ensemble of hot bodies to tantalise and tease us into submission
through the pulsating power of tango!Q Spectacle starts at
19:00. Tickets 90-160zł. Available at www.ticketonline.pl, Media
Markt (Al. Pokoju 67, K-2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 -
20:00), Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3. Open 09:00 - 22:00).
18-26 October 7x Gospel Festival , tel. 012 432 84
50, www.7x.gospel.com.pl. So great was the interest in
gospel music, this festival was created to host a mix of concerts,
workshops, happenings and even a jam session (heaven forbid!).
Q Programme and ticket prices were undecided at press time.
Please check the website for updates as they happen.
28 October - 27 January
2009 Dark Side of Imagina-
tion-Alfred Kubin Exhibition
C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. 012
42 42 866, www.mck.krakow.
pl. Presenting 72 works by the
brilliant Austrian Expressionist,
Alfred Kubin, known for his illus-
trations and lithographs of dark,
spectral and fantastic subject
matter, as well as his literary tal-
ent. Ghouls, demons and the
apo cal ypse - ch e ck i t ou t.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Until 30 November Con-
certs of Jewish Music E-6,
ul. Dajwór 18 (Kazimierz-Gali-
cia Jewish Museum,), tel. 0
662 00 72 55, www.orfeusz.
eu. Concerts of Jewish and Gypsy
music take place in the popular,
ancient Jewish Kazimierz district of Krakow. Held in the Galicia
Jewish Museum the concerts are performed by the ‘Nazzar’
group who perform traditional Klezmer music in their own ar-
rangements with elements of Jewish, Balkan and Galician
music. They also perform original Klezmer pieces, trying to join
traditional forms with elements of improvisation. Q Every Thu
and Sun at 19:00. Tickets 40zł and are available from Galicia
Jewish Museum (E-6, ul. Dajwór 18), Jordan Tourist Information
and Accommodation Centre (D-2, ul. Pawia 8).
Until 30 November Chopin
Concerts C-3, Rynek Główny
14 (Polonia House), tel. 0 662
00 72 55, www.orfeusz.eu. The
Piano Recitals in Kraków’s Polonia
House, which take place regularly
throughout the year, are mainly
aimed at foreign tourists who are frequent visitors to Kraków.
Eminent pianists from Poland and abroad, including Teresa
Janina Czekaj, Marek Szlezer, Paweł Kubica, Mariusz Adamczak
and Leopold Strauss, perform works by Chopin. Q Every Tue,
Fri, Sun at 19:00. In November every Fri and Sun at 19:00.
Tickets 40zł. Available at Polonia House and Jordan Tourist In-
formation and Accommodation Centre (D-2, ul. Pawia 8).
Until 31 October Polish
Folk Shows C-3, Polonia
House, Rynek Główny 14,
tel. 0 662 00 72 55, www.
orfeusz.eu. Folk Show is a cycle of musical events presenting
Polish folk music, particularly the unique folk music of the
Krakow region. The concerts are performed by soloists of folk
music and the dance ensemble ‘Zespół Pieśni i Tańca Akademii
Górniczo-Hutniczej „Krakus” im. Wiesława Białowąsa’ that
specializes in performances of original Polish folk art (including
dances such as cracoviennes, mazurkas, kujawiaks and
obereks) from different regions of Poland. Come and experience
the joy of Polish folk dance! Q Every Sun at 17:00. Tickets
35zł and available from Polonia House and Jordan Tourist In-
formation and Accommodation Centre (D-2, ul. Pawia 8).
CULTURE & EVENTS 23
Kraków Philharmonic
Kraków Philhar-
monic (Filharmonia
Krakowska) B-4, ul.
Zwierzyniecka 1, tel.
012 429 13 45, www.
filharmonia.krakow.pl.
A Symphony orchestra
can b e traced h ere to
1909 but the Krakow Philharmonic as it is today was
born in 1945. The building was completed in 1931 to
a design which borrowed ideas from the Maison du
Peuple in Brussels. The building has a neo-baroque
design and its concert hall is the largest in Krakow.
The concer t hall contains a magnificent organ by
Johannes Klais - Orgelbau Bonn which was installed
in 1996 to replace an older organ destroyed by a fire
in 1991. In addition to the concert hall the Philhar-
monic has also two rooms for chamber music - the
Golden Hall and the Blue Hall and it was in the Blue
Hall on the 15thof October 1938 that the young Karol
Wojtyła, who was later to become Pope John Paul II,
debuted as a poet.
During its life the Philharmonic has both performed
in many famous arenas around the world as well as
hosted many distinguished conductors, orchestras
and soloists, a tradition it maintains today. Today the
Philharmonic presents recitals, concerts and special
events and plays a major role in re-building the cul-
tural life of Krakow, a city with a rich cultural history.
Q Box office open 11:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun one hour before performance. Closed Mon.
Tickets 6-25zł.
08 October Artists For The Cracow Philhar-
monic This regular chamber concert series in the
Filharmonia’s Golden Hall presents various masterpieces
of classical music. This time around it’s Ravel: Five popu-
lar Greek Songs and Dvořak: Moravian songs Opus 20.
Q Concert starts at 19:00. Tickets 12zł. Available at
Philharmonic Hall box office.
23-25 October Organ Days The Filharmonia
cleans its pipes for three days with this annual organ
festival. Day one presents new compositions by An-
drzej Białko, day two features the choir and orchestra of
the Music Academy interpreting Puccini compositions
upon the 150th anniversary of his death, and on day
three the Kraków Filharmonik will present Maciejews-
ki’s famous Missa pro defunctis. Q Concerts start
at 19:00. Tickets 18-25zł. Available at Philharmonic
Hall box office.
21-22 November Symphonic Concert Conducted
by German composer, Kai Bumann, the works of Brahms,
Mozart and Strauss will be performed, including Don
Giovanni and Symphony no.2. Q Concer ts star t at
19:00. Tickets 18-25zł. Available at Philharmonic Hall
box office.
28-29 November Oratorio Concer ts This
series of concer ts presents vocalists and choirs.
Jan Krenz conducts performances of Brahms and
works of his own composition. Q Concer ts star t
at 19:00. Tickets 18-25zł. Available at Philharmonic
Hall box office.
October - November 2008
24 CULTURE & EVENTS PRESS & MAIL 25

While taking a trip to Łódź I picked up In Your Pocket for an

November
06 November Gaelforce
Dance G-2, ul. Reymonta
22, tel. 022 696 99 00,
www.makroconcert.pl. Via
Gael force Dance, 30 Irish
dan cers, a 10-p erson or-
chestra and an ar tiller y of
lights tell the story of two brothers in love with the same
woman (no!) through this unique mixture of ballet, modern
dance and other styles. Q Spectacle starts at 20:00.
Tickets 110-140zł. Available at w w w.ticketonline.pl,
Media Markt (Al. Pokoju 67, K-2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00), Empik (Rynek Główny 5, C-3. Open 09:00
- 22:00).
12 Novemb er Roisin
Murphy-Concer t I-2, ul.
Batorego 10 (Stodoła
Club), w w w.goodmusic.
com.pl. Achieving popular-
ity through her invol vement
in th e e cl e c ti c el e c troni c
p o p d u o M o l o ko , Ro i s i n
Murphy has enjoyed a successful solo career since,
peaking wi th the release of Overpowered (2007). After
her concer t here in Januar y sold ou t almost instanta-
neousl y, Murphy is back to gi ve you another chance to
see her ou trageous costumes li ve on stage. Q Con-
cer t star ts at 20:00. Gates open from 18:30. Tickets
110-130zł. Available at w w w.ticketpro.pl, Media Mark t
(Al. Pokoju 67, K-2. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 -
20:00), Empik (R ynek Główny 5, C-3. Open 09:00 -
22:00).
14-21 November
Etiuda&Anima Festival , tel.
012 633 35 38, www.etiudaan-
danima.com. Organised for the
promotion of student works from
around the globe, this film festival
now pits students against profes-
sionals as they compete for the
coveted gold, silver and bronze
dinosaurs, awarded for the best
achievements in cinematography.
A special golden jabberwocky is
given for the best animated film.
Yes, it’s all very serious Q Full
schedule available at www.etiudaandanima.com. Tickets
7-59zł. Available at Rotunda box office (ul. Oleandry 1, H-2.
Open 10:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun Closed), City
information Point (ul. Św. Jana 2, C-3. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun Closed).
23 November Tricky-Concert
G-2, ul. Budr yka 4 (Studio
Club), www.goodmusic.com.
pl. The king of trip-hop comes to
Studio Club. After a five-year hia-
tus, Tricky is touring in support of
his new album, Knowle West Boy,
which has been hailed as his best
record since his massively popular
debut, Maxinquaye. Q Concert
starts at 20:00. Tickets 95-120zł. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl, www.eventim.pl, Media Markt (Al. Pokoju 67, K-2. Open
09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00), Empik (Rynek Główny 5,
C-3. Open 09:00 - 22:00).
inkling of what might be useful to know about the city while
I was there for a brief trip. While perusing the magazine I
noticed an article on ‘Politics'. It seems to me that you would
not care at all about my political orientation. Why should
you since you don't even know me? Therefore, why do you
blatantly inform me as to your political inclinations in that
article? I assure you, I am not interested in your opinions...
In my view, your opinions, as regards the President of Poland,
were snotty, snide and rude. Overall, the writing in all the
articles was in my view, rather smarmy. However, I realize that
this e-mail will not change you. BDL's are incapable of honest,
rational, objective remarks. Thank you, Ronald Baker.
The Editor replies: Mr Baker, if we appear snotty, snide
and rude about the incumbent President it is for good reason,
that being we have little time for homophobic xenophobes
who stubbornly stand against tolerance and progress.
Recent opinion polls show we are not alone in this view.
Secondly, if you are not interested in our opinions, then we
suggest there is little point in carrying a guidebook in the
first place. We are not a marketing tool for the tourist office,
what sets In Your Pocket aside from other publications is our
readiness to voice our views rather than blithely pretend we
find ourselves in a country of unicorns and rainbows.
If we see faults or foibles we will point them out. If this is
done in a smarmy, arrogant or damning way then so be it,
let that be the price of honesty. We wish you luck in finding
a more comprehensive, candid and up-to-date set of guides
to the country.
Since you put out such a ‘super’, as the Polish people
say, book I was wondering if you have any influence with
the Polish Tourism Offices. The reason I ask is that the
Polish people who work in hotels, restaurants, shops
etc. have got to get their act together and be a little
more pleasant to strangers that they have contact
with. After all they leave an impression on people that
Poles are unpleasant, unsmiling people. Believe me
I have had my share of ‘pickle pusses’ wait on me.
Perhaps the tourism offices should hold conferences
for hotel managers etc and have them pass on the
word that they are to have employees put on a more
friendly attitude.
As more and more people from other parts of the world
come to Poland they should not go back home with a
negative feeling about Poles. A Disneyland attitude would
help. Keep up the great comments. Love them all.
Sincerely, Irene
Hi! My husband and I have just returned from a sweltering
Warsaw. We had a great time, narrowly missing the crazy
drivers… my they are mad! We stayed in The Westin, and
it’s certainly recommended; heavenly the beds definitely are!
Interestingly, I was in Warsaw 45 years ago as an innocent
teenager! All that could be seen then was the Palace of
Culture! Now it is dwarfed by high rise offices and banks.
It needs to be knocked down for being the most forbidding
building I have ever been near! It is crumbling and filthy. I don't
think the Poles know what to do with it frankly. The Old Town
is beautiful. We spent most of our weekend there, having tea
in the Hotel Bristol. That is where I stayed all those years ago.
There were no bathrooms then and a very stern old woman
would hand you two or three pieces of brown elastic toilet
paper outside the loo!!! Very different now. Serves the best
tea and cake in town. Marvelous to have gone back and seen
such obvious prosperity. Best wishes and thanks for a most
informative guide book. I particularly liked the bit about being
drunk and drinking urine-tasting coffee!
Chris McCarthy, Cardiff
Dear Editor, just returned from a Great Rail Journeys
tour of Poland. Your guides to Wroclaw, Krakow and
Warsaw were fantastically useful. I could hardly put them
down, as they are so entertainingly written. I much prefer
shoot-from-the-hip opinions to bland, safe, inoffensive
generalizations.
May I make just a few - hopefully constructive -
comments? As a classical musician and freelance
writer, I should have liked to find under Culture (or Poles
you should know) composers other than Chopin – for
example Szymanowski (dozens of CDs available now,
and his music is championed by Simon Rattle among
others) or Lutoslawski. Among a few small errors noticed,
it’s Primo Levi not Levy, while Chopin’s Revolution is
actually known as the Revolutionary Study, and there
are far greater works such as the Ballades, Scherzos,
Sonatas, etc. Anyway, just to repeat - your books are
brilliant. I could not stop reading out passages to other
group-members.
Best wishes, Philip Borg-Wheeler
Last year I tried to enter Enklawa club in Warsaw, and was
refused. Ok, maybe it was busy I thought. Another night I tried,
and the same goon on the door was very rude and refused
me again. Girl on the door spoke English, and she told me
about needing invitation from the owner, blah blah blah. I
gave her my business card and asked her for an invitation.
I have been in this city for fifteen years and never had this
attitude. Anyway, invitations came in form of e mails about
what’s on etc. So a third time I tried, with a Polish friend of
mine, and was still refused entry, even after taking the e-mail
inviting me. I was told this is just an advert. I took a photo of
the goon on the door, and of course he threatened me for
doing this – fortunately I am beyond such pigmy brains. I sent
the photo to the club through e-mail, I wrote to them, nothing
back. But I still get e mails once a week. So, if anyone out
there knows the owner, I would very much like to meet him,
and talk this through with him, politely of course, as I really
don’t understand what this attitude is all about, and in the
meantime I am telling everyone I know that as I see it this
club has NO PLACE in the Warsaw club scene. Go elsewhere
folks, you don’t need this rubbish.
Chris
We visited Warsaw and Krakow this month and, as
always, found the up-to-date In Your Pocket for each city
to be really useful!
However we were a little surprised to find that the
Smaki Warsawy restaurant in Warsaw is no longer listed.
We came upon that restaurant by chance on a previous
visit and much enjoyed it. We then found it listed in your
guide. It has now disappeared but on our recent visit we
felt it was just as good - very friendly service and good
food. Was there any particular reason why you removed
it? On your recommendation we visited the Lazienki Park
on a Sunday. We saw some of a live performance at the
Amphitheatre and enjoyed bursts of music elsewhere. A
thoroughly enjoyable day made even better by the antics
of the red squirrels.
Best wishes, Margaret Reynolds
www.inyourpocket.com

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

26 WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the crop
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. 012 429 60 70, fax
012 429 60 62, amadeus@janpol.com.pl, www.hotel-ama-
deus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the age of Mozart with antique
furnishings paired with state-of-the-art trimmings. Prince Charles
once bedded down here and this is one place which guarantees
the memorable stay that this historic city requires. Q22 rooms
(20 singles €135 - 190, 20 doubles €145 - 200, 2 apartments
€200 - 300). PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhh
Andel’s D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. 012 660 00 00, fax 012 660
00 01, info@andelscracow.com, www.andelscracow.com.
Just steps away from the train station the Andels looks set to
become one of Kraków’s success stories. This is an ultra mod-
ern hotel with a sharp design and rooms featuring CD and DVD
layers, in-house movies and light, bright colours. Q159 rooms
(153 singles €210 - 235, 153 doubles €235 - 265, 6 apartments
€330 - 520). PTYHARUFLGKDW hhhh
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. 012 424 34 00,
fax 012 424 34 05, copernicus@hotel.com.pl, www.hotel.
com.pl. You’ve chosen well. Few hotels in Central Europe can
match the standard set by Copernicus, and it’s a firm favourite
with visiting dignitaries, with guests including George W. Taste-
fully uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy woodwork,
marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some dating from the
14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views of Wawel, gourmet
food or the fitness centre and swimming pool housed in the
medieval cellars.Q29 rooms (4 singles 800zł, 17 doubles 900
- 980zł, 4 suites 1600 - 2000zł, 4 apartments 1200 - 1300zł).
PTJHARFLGKDCW hhhh
Dwór Kościuszko ul. Papiernicza 3 (Prądnik Biały), tel.
012 614 14 41, fax 012 378 99 31, kosciuszko@donimir-
Kraków In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
D Sauna W Wi-Fi
ski.com, www.donimirski.com. With hotels like the Gródek
and Pugetów to their name you can count the Donimirski group
to bring you quality every time, and so it is with their latest of-
fering. Get set for a memorable time in a hotel themed on the
life and times of the Polish patriotic hero Tadeusz Kośćiuszko.
Set inside gorgeous walled gardens this out-of-towner is just
the ticket if your looking to indulge the other half in your life,
and we’ll be back next issue with a full review. Q24 rooms
(23 singles 380 - 520zł, 22 doubles 420 - 560zł, 1 apartment
590 - 690zł). PTHARULGKDW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. 012 627 37 77, fax 012
627 37 00, rez.francuski@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. The
kind of place where doormen and porters wear gold braiding on
their uniforms. A grand effort, Francuski squeezes classic furni-
ture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large and all rooms
feature minibars, internet access and trouser press. Note that
not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (27 singles
€115 - 158, 23 doubles €115 - 158, 15 apartments €140 - 216).
Breakfast €15. PTJHARGKW hhhh
WHERE TO STAY 27
Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. 012 431 90 30, fax 012
378 93 15, grodek@donimirski.com, www.donimirski.
com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to you by the same
team behind the Pugetów and Maltański, so the quality comes
as no surprise. The interior, designed by Swiss studio IKRL, is
redolent of an aristocrat’s country retreat, and the individu-
ally designed rooms come with vases of flowers, bathrobes
and a homely look that reeks of romantic class. Adjacent
to a Dominican convent, Gródek offers an air of complete
serenity. Q23 rooms (21 singles 590 - 850zł, 18 doubles
630 - 890zł, 2 apartments 890 - 1030zł). PTHAR
ULGKDW hhhh
Grand C-2, ul. Sławkowska 5/7, tel. 012 421 72 55,
fax 012 421 83 60, hotel@grand.pl, www.grand.pl.
Grace and elegance in rooms dating from the 1860s. Original
wood beam ceilings, stained glass windows and ceremonious
service complete the imperial ambience. Q64 rooms (10
singles €250 - 260, 45 doubles €280, 9 apartments €350 -
1500). PTJHARUFGKDW hhhhh
Holiday Inn D-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. 012 619 00 00,
fax 012 619 00 05, smm@hik.krakow.pl, www.hik.
krakow.pl. Nothing short of top-level standards courtesy
of the Holiday Inn. Easy-on-the-eye navy blue colours, staff
who fuss over you and large rooms make this the reliable
choice one expects. For the best price check out their web
page which sports daily special offers. Q154 rooms (124
singles €189, 124 doubles €209, 30 suites €219 - 279).
PTJHARUFLGKW hhhhh
Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel.
012 299 29 00, fax 012 299 29 99, h3372@accor.
com, www.orbisonline.pl. Decorated with bright blue and
orange patterns the Novotel Centrum offers all the comforts
you’d associate with a big brand name. The hotel includes '$!¨3+

air-conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of Kraków’s
few hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards the disabled.
The upper floors feature views overlooking Wawel Castle.
Q198 rooms (192 singles €190 - 215, 192 doubles €190 '/2:ª77,+0
- 215, 6 apartments €310). Breakfast €17. PTHAR :)%,/.!'ª2!
UFGKDCW hhhh '{/'ª7
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Ostoya Palace A-4, ul. Piłsudskiego 24, tel. 012 430 7!{"2:9#(
',)7)#%
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90 00, fax 012 430 90 01, hotel@ostoyapalace.pl, www. +!4/7)#%
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ostoyapalace.pl. Occupying a palace dating from 1895 the
Ostoya is a decent addition to Kraków’s luxury bracket, and
rooms feature custom-made furniture, broadband internet
and the classical atmosphere of the Imperial Age. Adjoining
bathrooms come with heated towel racks and bathroom
floors, and some with jacuzzi tubs. Q24 rooms (4 singles
570 - 660zł, 19 doubles 640 - 730zł, 1 apartment 1050 -
1140zł). PTHAUGKDW hhhh
Pałac Bonerowski (Bonerowski Palace) C-3, ul.
SAVE&STAY RESERVATION
Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13 00, fax 012 374 13 05, re- GUARANTEES YOUR SMILE.
cepcja@palacbonerowski.pl, www.palacbonerowski.pl.
A masterpiece of a hotel occupying a historic property dating CHECK OUR WEBSITE TO FIND
from the early 16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these
THE BEST PRICES!
corridors back in the 17th century. Many of the original details
have been restored and retained, including gothic columns
and medieval masonry and rooms come beautifully appointed
with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of
note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above,
as well as the full range of top-class services. Best of all
rooms come with grandstand views facing the main square,
allowing you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of
your room. Q14 rooms (10 singles €195 - 225, 10 doubles WWWQUBUSHOTELCOM
€225 - 255, 4 apartments €345 - 580). PTHARF
LGKDW
October - November 2008
28 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 29

paintings from the Kraków Academy of Art decorate the

walls, while other trimmings include high-speed internet ac- Upmarket
cess, gym and ice-making machines on each floor. Choose Art Hotel Niebieski H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. 012 431
between rooms decorated in either ‘ocean’ (turquoise 18 58, fax 012 431 18 28, hotelniebieski@gmail.com,
shades, smooth lines) or ‘city-style’ (scarlet colours and www.niebieski.com.pl. One of the top hotels in town, and
edges). Regardless, both boast three telephone lines, the favoured stamping ground of best selling author/historian
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Room €167 - 227). PTJHARUFLGKDW rooms (12 singles 280 - 340zł, 12 doubles 320 - 380zł, 1
hhhhh suite 390 - 560zł). THAULGKW hhh

Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. 012 662 Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. 012 430 02 03, fax
10 00, fax 012 662 16 09, reservation.krakow@ 012 430 01 96, hotelatrium@hotelatrium.pl, www.
sheraton.com, w w w.sheraton.com/krakow. Th e hotelatrium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a
choice of the stars. This is where the Real Madrid football subtle, Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped conference
team stayed back in 2004, though usually it’s wealthy room can fit up to 70 people and suites are equipped with
tourists and corporate travellers who bustle through the kitchenettes, living room and two beds. Note that not all
glass-covered atrium in this sparkling five star venture. rooms have air-conditioning.Q52 rooms (42 singles €100
Rooms come decorated with chequered scarlet colour - 110, 39 doubles €120, 8 triples €135, 2 apartments €170).
schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q 232 rooms PTHARULGKW hhh
(221 singles €130 - 255, 221 doubles €150 - 275, 3
suites €205 - 335, 7 apartments €280 - 680, 1 Wawel Cracovia H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. 012 424 56 00, fax 012
Suite €680 - 1180). Tax 7%. PTHARUFLG 421 95 86, rez.cracovia@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl.
KDC hhhhh A massive concrete facade hides an interior that resembles
an Austin Powers set. Furnishings are average and the
Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 012 384 08 08, bathrooms can be cramped, though all the expectations of
fax 012 384 08 09, stary@hotel.com.pl, www.stary. international hotel service will be met. Its vast size makes
hotel.com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits inside what is it a popular choice for busloads of tourists. Note that not all
ul Ba
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07 1122 Gain entry via a huge hardwood door that automatically - 257zł, 191 doubles 233 - 379zł, 8 apartments 399 - 799zł).
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www w.ho
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pl tocratic residence many of the original details have been
retained, to go alongside chic touches such as a glass lift Crown Piast Hotel & Park ul. Radzikowskiego 109
that zips guests to their rooms. Accommodation comes (Bronowice), tel. 012 683 26 00, fax 012 683 26 65,
Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. 012 with bathrooms fitted with Italian marble, and sumptu- biuro@hotelpiast.pl, www.hotelpiast.pl. Pleasant accom-
374 51 00, fax 012 374 52 00, krakow@qubushotel. ous rooms filled with creature comforts. A subterranean modation with floral-patterned duvets, good bathrooms and
com, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design includes pool can be found in the cellars, while perched on top all the trifling extras like satellite TV. Outside enjoy landscaped
an eye-catching wall that juts out at an angle from the of the hotel is a rooftop bar with views staring onto the gardens complete with rare plants, the occasional peacock
hotel’s façade. Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to main square. Q 53 rooms (8 singles 800zł, 34 doubles and a tavern. Q 180 rooms (176 singles 260 - 520zł,
high standards and feature 26 inch televisions, broadband 900zł, 4 suites 1140zł, 6 apartments 1520 - 1900zł, 1 176 doubles 260 - 520zł, 4 apartments 650 - 1200zł).
internet as well as an ironing board to help with keeping Presidential Suite 2280zł). PTJHARFLG PTHARUFLGKDW hhhhh
up appearances. Unsurprisingly there’s a heavy business KDC hhhhh
slant to this hotel, with five conference rooms to pick from, Elektor D-2, ul. Szpitalna 28, tel. 012 423 23 17, fax
while for after-work moments take timeout in the fitness Wentzl C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. 012 430 26 012 423 23 27, elektor@hotelelektor.com.pl, www.ho-
centre - complete with top floor swimming pool with views 64, fax 012 430 26 65, hotel@went zl.pl, w w w. telelektor.com.pl. A guest list that is second to none. Both
stretching over central Kraków. Q194 rooms (98 singles went zl.pl. A world-class h otel wi th th e b est views the King of Norway and Emperor of Japan have used the hotel
€126 - 167, 85 doubles €143 - 184, 10 suites €177 - 234, in th e ci t y. Th e rooms come decked in rich fabrics, as their base, while the restaurant has cooked for Britain’s
1 apar tment €217 - 274). PTHARUFLG hand-woven rugs, beau tiful carpentr y work and original Queen Elizabeth II. Double rooms feature a separate lounge,
KDCW hhhh ar twork. The staff will do any thing, within the realms of while suites are equipped for the serious business traveller.
decency, to ensure a smooth stay: from booking opera Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q21 rooms
Radisson SAS B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. 012 tickets to reser ving flights. Q 18 rooms (18 singles (5 singles €69 - 119, 4 doubles €79 - 99, 12 apartments
618 88 88, fax 012 618 88 89, reservations.krakow@ €159 - 179, 18 doubles €179 - 199). PTJAR €109 - 189). PTJHALGKW hhh
radissonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Over 400 LGKW hhh
Ester E-6, ul. Szeroka 20, tel. 012 429 11 88, fax 012
429 12 33, biuro@hotel-ester.krakow.pl, www.hotel-ester.
krakow.pl. Rather overpriced, but the Kazimierz location keeps
business brisk in this unremarkable hotel. Double glazing, lots of
pink touches and a decent restaurant. Q32 rooms (8 singles
€70 - 149, 19 doubles €80 - 175, 5 triples €90 - 185, 1 apart-
ment €160 - 330). PTHARULGKDW hhh

Express by Holiday Inn ul. Opolska 14 (Krowodrza),

tel. 012 614 57 00, fax 012 614 57 01, recepcja@kra-
kowexpress.pl, www.krakowexpress.pl. Boasting some
of the most comfortable beds in the city, as well as what
surely rates as the longest corridor (105 metres), all rooms
are equipped with internet access, cheerful blue colours and
cable TV. Q181 rooms (52 singles 250 - 385zł, 129 doubles
300 - 395zł). PTHAULGKW hhh

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

30 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 31

Farmona Business Hotel & Spa ul. Jugowicka 10c
(Łagiewniki), tel. 012 252 70 70, fax 012 252 70 71,
recepcja@farmonahotel.com, www.farmonahotel.com.
Situated seven kilometres from the city centre this star is
hoping to lure both business and leisure travellers on account
of state-of-the-art conference facilities as well as some of
the best spa treatments in Southern Poland, including the
only specialist hair care program in the country. Set behind
a modern exterior rooms come with dark, soothing colours,
and include flatscreen TV and free wireless internet access.
Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q31 rooms
(28 singles 350 - 370zł, 27 doubles 400 - 430zł, 3 suites
650 - 750zł). PTHARUGKDW hhh
Matejko D-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. 012 422 47 37, fax 012
422 47 80, biuro@matejkohotel.pl, www.matejkohotel.
pl. A grand effort inside a fully restored tenement building.
Swish rooms come with rich colours and modern trappings,
offering a fine balance between past and present. Fully air-
conditioned throughout, and with the full set of business
facilities to boot. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.
Q48 rooms (45 singles 260zł, 42 doubles 320zł, 2 triples
400zł, 3 apartments 500zł). PTHARUGKDW
hhh
Monopol C/D-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 6, tel. 012 422 76 66,
fax 012 269 15 60, info@rthotels.com.pl, www.rthotels.
com.pl. If you visited Kraków approximately five years ago
you may remember the Monopol as a right house of horror.
Times have changed and the Monopol is now unrecognizable
from its former state. Soft coloured rooms come with flow-
ers, internet access and an airy aesthetic, bringing it in line
with the competition. Q75 rooms (58 singles €69 - 89, 49
doubles €97 - 119, 17 triples €124 - 156). TJHAR
ULG hhh
Pugetów D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 432 49 50,
fax 012 378 93 25, pugetow@donimirski.com, www.
donimirski.com. At last Kraków can boast the attractive,
boutique hotel that it deserves. No expense has been spared
creating this intimate spot and your accommodation comes
with embroidered bathrobes and some 200 television channels
to veg in front of. Rooms come with their own unique design,
and names like Conrad and Bonaparte. Our favourite, the
Kwiatkowski apartment, features oil paintings, bone china and
soft cream fabrics. Treat yourself. Q7 rooms (2 singles 350zł,
2 doubles 480 - 510zł, 1 triple 520 - 600zł, 1 suite 400 - 500zł,
2 apartments 590 - 790zł). PTHARLG hhh
Regent D-7, ul. Bożego Ciała 19, tel. 012 430 62 34, fax
012 430 59 77, info@rthotels.com.pl, www.rthotels.pl.
A perky yellow building with spacious rooms decked out with
wooden furniture, cobalt-blue bathrooms and friendly emergency
signs that reassuringly read ‘Don’t panic!’. Located in the heart
of Kazimierz. Q39 rooms (4 singles €59 - 73, 29 doubles €79
- 101, 6 triples €105 - 125). TARULGK hhh
Rezydent C-3, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. 012 429 54 10, fax 012
429 55 76, rezydent@rezydent.krakow.pl, www.rezydent.
krakow.pl. Outstanding quality found behind a medieval façade.
Suites are decorated in contemporary fashion, while the doubles
and singles come with vaulted ceilings and original stencil-work.
On the main strip, so expect noise. Q52 rooms (8 singles €71
- 109, 36 doubles €97 - 119, 7 triples €124 - 156, 8 apartments
€124 - 309). TJHARULGK hhh
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. 012 384 00 00, fax 012
384 00 01, recepcja@hotelrubinstein.com, www.hotelrubin-
stein.com. It’s no longer possible to refer to Kazimierz as Kraków’s
upcoming district. Kazimierz has well and truly arrived, and this
new star is the proof. In keeping with spirit of the area rooms in the
Rubinstein come with elegant carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs
and antique details. Some feature restored timber ceilings, and all
are treated to modern finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air
conditioning and satellite TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist
trail, so expect a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q27 rooms
(4 singles 640zł, 18 doubles 700zł, 5 apartments 1000 - 1400zł).
PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
Secesja C-7, ul. Paulińska 24, tel. 012 430 74 64, fax
012 430 74 05, hotel@hotelsecesja.krakow.pl, www.
hotelsecesja.krakow.pl. A modern structure with some
token Secessionist motifs in the lobby and restaurant. Rooms
boast bay windows with views of Kazimierz. Q28 rooms (5
singles €66 - 88, 21 doubles €78 - 109, 2 apartments €120
- 160). PTHAUFGKDW hhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. 012 422 76 86, fax
012 422 79 34, recepcja@senacki.krakow.pl, www.sen-
acki.krakow.pl. A beautifully renovated historic building is
the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed rooms
include easy colour schemes and great views of old Kraków.
Planted between Wawel and Old Town Square. Note that not
all rooms have air-conditioning.Q20 rooms (4 singles €80 -
105, 13 doubles €90 - 140, 1 triple €115 - 145, 2 apartments
€115 - 160). PTHARULGKW hhh
Sympozjum ul. Kobierzyńska 47, tel. 012 261 86 00,
fax 012 261 87 99, hotel@sympozjum.com.pl, www.
sympozjum.com.pl. A smart hotel with different colour
schemes on each floor. Polite service and soft rock music
greets you in the lobby, while the basement houses meeting
rooms and swimming pool. Bedrooms are large, quiet and
fitted with soft carpets and good minibars. Q80 rooms (75
singles 340 - 450zł, 75 doubles 420 - 550zł, 5 apartments
630 - 890zł). PTHARUGKDC hhhhh

Novotel Kraków Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11,

tel. 012 622 64 00, fax 012 622 64 05, nov.bronowice@
orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. With over 300 rooms under
their roof this is one of Kraków’s larger hotels, and as such
primed for large conferences and tour groups casting a glance
at the higher end of the hotel market. Accommodation touts
a clean and bright design, incorporating simple colours with
modern facilities. Start the day with a few lengths in the
swimming pool, and finish it with late night cocktails in their
bar. Q305 rooms (304 singles €55 - 119, 304 doubles
€55 - 119, 1 apartment €150 - 200). Breakfast €12. PO
THARUFLGKDCW hhhh

Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-3, ul. Floriańska 14, tel.
012 424 33 00, fax 012 424 33 51, pod-roza@hotel.com.
pl, www.hotel.com.pl. A beautifully restored historic hotel,
and formerly the stamping ground of Tsar Alekander I and
Franz Liszt. Recent renovations have done nothing to disturb
the character and rooms come with state-of-the-art facilities,
Persian rugs and important looking antiques. Q57 rooms (13
singles 650zł, 38 doubles 720 - 850zł, 7 apartments 1200 -
1600zł). PTJHARFGKD hhhh

Polski Pod Białym Orłem C-2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. 012
422 11 44, fax 012 422 14 26, hotel.polski@podorlem.
com.pl, www.podorlem.com.pl. A classical looking hotel
with corridors decorated in tapestries and reproductions
of famous Polish art. Furnished in a faux 19th century style,
the apartments are reasonably impressive. The singles
and doubles however are starting to look a little bleak and
gloomy, though most boast views of Floriańska Gate. Q57
rooms (28 singles 295 - 375zł, 21 doubles 355 - 525zł, 5
triples 430 - 610zł, 3 apartments 630 - 1040zł). PT
JARUG hhh

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

32 WHERE TO STAY
Mid-range
Abel E-6, ul. Józefa 30, tel. 012 411 87 36, fax 012 411 94
90, hotelabel@hotelabel.pl, www.hotelabel.pl. A charismatic
hotel with eccentric art and assorted bric-a-brac in a lobby that
also comes with piles of tourism pamphlets to peruse. The warm
welcome supplied by the receptionists is similar to the ones found
in family-run enterprises, and the set of wooden stairs leads guests
to rooms primly furnished with modern fittings and light colours.
One of the best deals in the area. Q14 rooms (3 singles 170 -
180zł, 8 doubles 200 - 250zł, 3 triples 220 - 270zł). AG
Alef C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 5, tel. 012 421 38 70, fax 012
424 31 32, alef@alef.pl, www.alef.pl. Immerse yourself in pre-
war Kazimierz. Decorated with restored antiques and wood floors
Alef is both eccentric and enchanting. No TVs, that would just ruin
the atmosphere. Q43 rooms (43 singles €51 - 110, 41 doubles
€67 - 110, 2 triples €84 - 95). PHARGKW hhh
Alexander B-2, ul. Garbarska 18, tel. 012 422 96 60,
fax 012 422 97 61, biuro@alexhotel.pl, www.alexhotel.
pl. Conventional three-star comfort on the edge of Old Town.
Identikit rooms come with blue and yellow colour schemes
and pristine bathrooms. If you find your mind wandering
during meetings, then the top floor conference room offers
scenic views of the city skyline. Q40 rooms (9 singles
230 - 280zł, 31 doubles 290 - 380zł, 14 triples 320 - 420zł).
PTJHARUGKW hhh
Amber B-2, ul. Garbarska 10, tel./fax 012 421 06 06, of-
fice@hotel-amber.pl, www.hotel-amber.pl. Set across two
floors and a loft the Amber combines pleasing cream and cara-
mel colours to compliment the light and modern interiors. Rooms
offer satellite TV and internet access, as well as generous duvets
in which to sink inside. Found down a quiet street just minutes
from all the action. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.
Q18 rooms (2 singles 250 - 350zł, 18 doubles 320 - 470zł, 6
triples 410 - 570zł). PTHARULGK
Aparthotel Mały Kraków D-1, ul. Kurniki 4, tel. 012 357
20 13, fax 012 619 43 60, info@maly-krakow.pl, www.
maly-krakow.pl. Staying in the old town no longer means
clanking around antique furnishings and tottering up creaky
stairs. The Aparthotel touts a sharp designer edge with light
woods, flower arrangements and internet access. Rooms
come with fully functioning kitchens, and are ideal for group or
family travel. Q16 rooms (4 singles 219 - 259zł, 11 doubles
259 - 299zł, 1 quad 379 - 419zł). THARGW
Aparthotel Spatz D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. 012 357
20 13, fax 012 619 43 60, info@hotelplus.pl, www.
spatz.pl. Though not in the best part of Kazimierz this classy
apartment-hotel is a great place to stay if you want to be in
the very heart of the action. Minutes from the nightlife of
Plac Nowy the rooms are bigger than average, and come
with some cracking extras like flat screen TVs and fresh
flowers. Note that the lack of air conditioning might stifle a
few wanting to stay here, but for the price - which includes a
wonderful buffet breakfast - you can’t go too far wrong. Q28
rooms (2 singles 249 - 289zł, 26 doubles 289 - 369zł, 1 suite
399 - 449zł). TARGK
Ascot E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. 012 384 06 06, fax
012 384 06 07, rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl, www.asco-
thotel.pl. A modern front shields a sharply designed hotel
that includes reprints of classic works by Tamara Lempicka in
the lobby, and free internet access inside each room. Smartly
appointed rooms come with reddish carpets and bouncy
beds, while the shining white bathrooms also include hairdry-
ers - not always a given in Poland. Q49 rooms (4 singles
Kraków In Your Pocket
€75 - 95, 36 doubles €90 - 120, 7 triples €105 - 135, 2 quads
€120 - 160). PTHAULGKW hhh
Astoria D-6, ul. Józefa 24, tel. 012 432 50 10, fax 012
432 50 20, biuro@astoriahotel.pl, www.astoriahotel.
pl. The large rooms are all air-conditioned, bright, and
painted fresh yellow. The hotel restaurant serves Polish
and international dishes and is open for passers-by too.
Our favourite detail: the huge buttons in the elevator. Q33
rooms (30 singles 240 - 340zł, 30 doubles 300 - 420zł, 1
triple 370 - 510zł, 2 apartments 340 - 500zł). PTHAR
UGKD hhh
B&B La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. 012 422
65 64, fax 012 431 09 55, biuro@bblafontaine.com,
www.bblafontaine.com. High standard apartments come
furnished in a chic, modern style decorated with relaxing
scarlet and white colourings. All have microwave ovens, air-
conditioning, hairdryers and high-speed internet connection.
Q13 rooms (1 single 189 - 269zł, 8 doubles 189 - 269zł,
3 triples 235 - 329zł, 3 quads 281 - 389zł, 5 apartments
365 - 727zł). PTHARK
Batory E-3, ul. Sołtyka 19, tel. 012 294 30 30, fax 012
294 30 33, batory@hotelbatory.pl, www.hotelbatory.pl.
You may be suspicious of staying in a former shoe factory,
but this family-run enterprise stands out on account of its
individuality and warm welcome. Attractive rooms come
brimming with pine fittings, paintings and flowers, while
smoking is banned throughout. Note that not all rooms
have air-conditioning. Q29 rooms (25 singles €65 - 120,
25 doubles €79 - 120, 4 triples €92 - 135). PTHAR
UGKW hhh
Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. 012 252 07 10, fax 012
252 07 12, benefis@hotelbenefis.pl, www.hotelbenefis.
pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny rooms that reflect the
andel’s Hotel **** Cracow
age of the hotel - brand new. Of note is the studio apartment, ul.Pawia 3, 31-547 Kraków
set at the top of the building complete with slanted skylight
and separate lounge area. Q20 rooms (12 singles 230zł, 12 Tel. +48 12 660 01 00, Fax +48 12 660 00 01
doubles 250zł, 8 suites 300zł). TRUGKW hhh
reservation@andelscracow.com, www.andelscracow.com
Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. 012 424 26
00, fax 012 424 26 01, krakow@campanile.com.pl,
www.campanile.com.pl. The bright rooms come decorated
in the Campanile flagship colours of cream and green, and
feature satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of the top-floor
quarters that overlook the surrounding Planty Park. Q106
rooms (105 singles 219 - 339zł, 105 doubles 248 - 339zł, 1
apartment 451 - 520zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTJHAR
UGKW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. 012 299
00 00, fax 012 299 00 01, info@chopinhotel.com, www.
chopinhotel.com. A modern building offering clean-cut,
functional accommodation and a western attitude to service.
Free wireless internet access for guests, as well as regular
promotions to keep an eye out for. Recent renovations have
seen all the rooms upgraded. Q220 rooms (219 singles ՔéâÝåéٔÙìäÙæÝÙâ×ٔãڔÞçêçäÛáçå’Ö×åÛÙà’Ûà’ÕäÓÕáé
€72 - 90, 219 doubles €82 - 102, 1 apartment €120 - 145).
O ho
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PTHARUFLGKW hhh
Accommodation Additional services
Classic D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 32, tel. 012 424 03 03, 1 e
fax 012 429 36 80, hotel@hotel-classic.pl, www.hotel- e
classic.pl. The work of a Danish architect, Classic combines a
clean lines and sleek furnishings with an exterior that slots in d
neatly with the surrounding Old Town. All rooms come with te
satellite TV, internet connection and air-conditioning. Q30
T
rooms (25 singles €75 - 110, 25 doubles €85 - 120, 5 apart-
ments €130 - 160). PTJARUG hhh h
will be reserved for non-smoking quests. •C
Cable and wireless high speed Internet
µ”çèÕèÙáÙâè”ãڔãçÓÞÛæë’Óà֒å×äèÛÕ×
34 WHERE TO STAY
Dom Casimi E-6, ul. Szeroka 7/8, tel. 012 426 11 93,
fax 012 426 11 94, casimi@casimi.pl, www.casimi.
pl. Light and bright lodgings overlooking scenic Szeroka.
Rooms are kept simple with wooden fittings and basics
like TV and internet connection provided. Bathrooms are
spic and span, straight out of a catalogue, and best of all
you find yourself sleeping right above an Indian restau-
rant. Q12 rooms (10 singles 150 - 230zł, 10 doubles
240 - 310zł, 1 triple 260 - 370zł, 1 quad 340 - 430zł).
THARLGK
Dom Polonii C-3, Rynek Główny 14, tel. 012 428 04
60, fax 012 422 43 55, biuro@swp.krakow.pl, www.
swp.krakow.pl. The best deal on the Old Town Square.
Rooms have high ceilings and large windows looking down
on the crowds milling down ul. Grodzka. It’s on the third floor
and there’s no lift - but you’re rewarded with quirky Japanese
ceiling decorations at the top of the stairs. Q3 rooms (2
singles 198zł, 2 doubles 236zł, 2 triples 268zł, 1 apartment
268 - 348zł). Breakfast 18zł. HARK
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. 012 430 65 65, fax 012
430 67 67, eden@hoteleden.pl, www.hoteleden.pl. A
modern Kazimierz hotel that caters to all, but keeps Jewish
guests in mind, with fragments of the Torah on the doors,
Kraków’s only truly kosher restaurant, original paintings
of Kazimierz life, and the only mikveh (Jewish ritual bath
house) in Poland. On top of that they also boast a salt cave
to regenerate your body and spirit. Q27 rooms (25 singles
190zł, 21 doubles 280zł, 5 triples 350zł, 2 apartments 400zł).
THAUGKDW hhh
Europejski E-2, ul. Lubicz 5, tel. 012 423 25 10, fax
012 423 25 29, he@he.pl, www.he.pl. When nationalised
in the 1960s the Europejski’s former owner was humiliatingly
made to work in another hotel. Now firmly back in the hands of
the Czepczyk family, renovated rooms have plush furnishings,
and the bathrooms have been fully updated. Q41 rooms (13
singles 195 - 299zł, 7 doubles 240 - 355zł, 16 triples 350 -
455zł, 4 apartments 450 - 589zł, 1 Presidential apartment
650 - 750zł). TJHAULGKDW hhh
Floryan C-2, ul. Floriańska 38, tel. 012 431 14 18, fax
012 431 23 85, floryan@floryan.com.pl, www.floryan.
com.pl. A very good choice. If you’re not travelling lightly
then the singles and doubles can appear cramped, but the
apartments are positively huge. ‘90s chic prevails with spot-
less parquet floors, lots of colour and IKEA-style vases and
lamps dotted around. Q21 rooms (21 singles 280 - 430zł,
21 doubles 320 - 470zł, 5 triples 500 - 580zł, 2 quads 560 -
640zł). PTHARGKW hhh
Fortuna A-3, ul. Czapskich 5, tel. 012 422 31 43, fax
012 411 08 06, info@hotel-fortuna.com.pl, www.hotel-
fortuna.com.pl. A pleasant hotel with beaming faces at
the reception desk and antique furniture in the restaurant.
Upstairs, rooms feature attractive green and yellow colours
and are well soundproofed from the trams that roll by out-
side. Q25 rooms (3 singles 240 - 300zł, 15 doubles 330
- 410zł, 5 triples 380 - 480zł, 2 apartments 400 - 490zł).
THARUKW hhh
Fortuna Bis A-3, ul. Piłsudskiego 25, tel. 012 430 10
25, fax 012 430 10 77, infobis@hotel-fortuna.com.pl,
www.hotel-fortuna.com.pl. Similar to its neighbouring
counterpart, Fortuna, this version features a wraparound
courtyard balcony festooned with flowerpots and shrubs.
Q23 rooms (8 singles 240 - 300zł, 10 doubles 330 -
410zł, 2 triples 380 - 480zł, 2 apartments 400 - 490zł).
THAUKW hhh
Kraków In Your Pocket
WHERE TO STAY 35
Ibis Kraków Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel.
012 299 33 00, fax 012 299 33 33, h3710@accor.
com, www.orbisonline.pl. You know what to expect
with the Ibis brand. While not an adventurous choice
the guys behind the French chain show an unflag ging
commitment to maintaining international standards and
high-grade ser vice. Spotless furnishings and a central
location add to the appeal and rooms have recently been
fully renovated. Q 175 rooms (175 singles 269zł, 175
doubles 299zł). Breakfast 29zł. PTJA6UL
GKW hh
Irbis G-4, ul. Ks. Józefa 24a, tel. 012 427 84 90, fax
012 427 10 18, recepcja@irbishotel.pl, www.irbishotel.
pl. Situated in a quiet suburb Irbis has rooms with riverside
views, bright colours and huge showers - a quiet tonic to
the madhouse that is the old town. Irbis organize boat trips
down the Wisła in season and also offer a beautifully quiet
terrace for you to relax. Q24 rooms (1 single 129 - 230zł, 15
doubles 209 - 300zł, 8 triples 250 - 350zł). THAGKW
hhh
Jan C-3/4, ul. Grodzka 11, tel. 012 430 19 69, fax
012 430 19 92, recepcja@hotel-jan.com.pl, www.
hotel-jan.com.pl. Slick, modern rooms in an excellent
position close to the market square. Recommended.
Q35 rooms (29 singles 230 - 320zł, 27 doubles 300 -
430zł, 5 triples 360 - 460zł, 2 apartments 400 - 550zł).
PTJHARUG hhh
Jordan C-1, ul. Długa 9, tel. 012 430 02 92, fax 012
422 82 26, nocleg@jordan.pl, www.jordan.pl. Rooms are
compact and straight-forward affairs and although not state-
of-the-art, facilities have a newish feel about them. The glass
elevator is a nice touch, and the hotel is walking distance from
the train station. Q19 rooms (15 singles 160 - 210zł, 15
doubles 250zł, 8 triples 330zł, 1 quad 400zł, 2 apartments
280 - 420zł). TJHARGK
Karmel E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. 012 430 67 00, fax 012
430 67 26, hotel@karmel.com.pl, www.karmel.com.pl.
Karmel occupies a faithfully restored townhouse in the heart
of Kazimierz. Stripped wood floors and a mix of cream and
earth colours promote an effortlessly hushed and comfortable
atmosphere. The Peppe Rosso restaurant downstairs rates
as one of the most enjoyable meals in the area. Note that
not all rooms have air-conditioning.Q11 rooms (4 singles
220 - 250zł, 6 doubles 260 - 398zł, 1 triple 360 - 520zł).
PTHARGK hhh
Kazimierz D-6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. 012 421 66 29,
fax 012 422 28 84, hotel@hk.com.pl, www.hk.com.pl.
Beautiful stained glass windows inside the restaurant fill this
hotel with an upscale ambience. Upstairs simple, modern
rooms meet three-star standards and come with a spongy
wallpaper that you can’t keep your fingers off. Note that not
all rooms have air-conditioning Q35 rooms (33 singles
185 - 260zł, 25 doubles 240 - 315zł, 2 triples 295 - 370zł).
PTHARUGW hhh
Kazimierz II E-5, ul. Starowiślna 60, tel. 012 426
80 70, fax 012 426 80 71, hotel2@hk.com.pl, www.
hk.com.pl. A well restored 19th century façade hides
rooms containing cream and scarlet flourishes and, in
some, occasionally grand extras such as period-style
wardrobes. A very good middle-of-the-road gig this, with
rooms armed with TV and internet access and a loca-
tion on the border of the hip Kazimierz district. Q 23
rooms (23 singles 185 - 260zł, 21 doubles 240 - 315zł).
THARLG hhh
October - November 2008
36 WHERE TO STAY
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel./fax 012 411
12 45, klezmer@klezmer.pl, www.klezmer.pl. A former
mikveh (Jewish ritual bath house) has been converted into
a spacious hotel with pleasant staff and sometimes very
large rooms. The bathhouse in the cellar is now a gallery.
Q10 rooms (7 singles 230 - 270zł, 7 doubles 290 - 330zł,
3 apartments 410 - 550zł). THAGK
Logos A-2, ul. Szujskiego 5, tel. 012 632 33 33, fax 012
632 42 10, logos-kr@hotel-logos.pl, www.hotel-logos.
pl. The chic and glossy lobby upstages the rather stagnant
rooms, but all the necessary amenities are present. If the
peace and quiet of the residential neighbourhood outside your
window isn’t soothing enough, spend some time in the hotel’s
centre of relaxation and beauty. Q49 rooms (9 singles 210 -
280zł, 36 doubles 290 - 380zł, 2 triples 330 - 420zł, 2 suites
390 - 480zł). THARLGKDW hhh
Maltański B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. 012 431
00 10, fax 012 378 93 12, maltanski@donimirski.
com, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete with
chequered tiles and fireplace, and you’ll get a preview of
the class that lies behind the façade. Rooms come with
fluffy robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic
furnishings. Business service on offer include conference
facilities, translation services and organizing temporary office
space. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning.Q16
rooms (16 singles 510 - 610zł, 14 doubles 540 - 640zł).
PTHARULG hhh
Mikołaj D-3, ul. Mikołajska 30, tel./fax 012 429 58 08,
recepcja@mikolaj.hg.pl, www.mikolaj.hg.pl. A renovated
townhouse with an old town location close to the Planty Park.
Hidden down a secluded side street, so your night’s rest is in
Kraków In Your Pocket
little danger of being disturbed by leery stag parties fighting
over kebabs. Rooms come with a simple, modern chic, with
suites containing a kitchenette and lounge room. The hotel
restaurant is set inside an atmospheric cellar. Note that
not all rooms have air-conditioning.Q11 rooms (11 singles
315 - 365zł, 3 doubles 330 - 380zł, 6 triples 360 - 420zł, 2
apartments 390 - 490zł). PTHAGKW hhh
Petrus G-4, ul. Pietrusińskiego 12, tel. 012 269 29
46, fax 012 269 29 37, hotel@petrus.net.pl, www.
petrus.net.pl. A mountain retreat within the city limits.
Tucked next to Twardowski Park, most rooms offer views
of the lakeside rock formations, and come appointed with
comfortable colour schemes, satellite TV and the odd piece
of abstract art. Sauna facilities and hiking trails make this a
great tonic to Kraków’s more sterile options. Q27 rooms (7
singles €52 - 68, 17 doubles €70 - 92, 3 triples €96 - 108).
THARUKDW hhh
Pod Wawelem B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. 012 426 26
25, fax 012 422 33 99, rezerwacja@hotelpodwawelem.
pl, www.hotelpodwawelem.pl. A small hotel with a futur-
istic look and a location that stands in the shadow of Wawel
Castle. Smart rooms come in pale lemon colours with internet
access and CNN available to veg in front of the television. Find
modern bathrooms attached to each room, and a sharply
designed restaurant on the ground floor. Q48 rooms (6
singles 285 - 420zł, 41 doubles 360 - 600zł, 1 apartment
530 - 700zł). PTHARUFGKD hhh
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. 012 422 10 44, fax 012
422 13 89, rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.
com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by Stanisław Wyspi-
anski over the staircase is the first thing to catch the eye. The
bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and the rooms
are otherwise fully equipped. You might not get all new ameni-
ties, you do get 150-year-old tradition. Note that not all rooms
have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (7 singles 280 - 380zł, 24
doubles 360 - 450zł, 7 triples 420 - 540zł, 2 quads 500 - 630zł,
2 apartments 495 - 640zł). PTJHAGKW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. 012 422 12 33, fax
012 422 16 21, rezerwacja@hotel-polonia.com.pl, www.
hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917 this grand
corner structure catches the eye the moment you leave the
train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual welcome
and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in a mock
19th century style that help evoke Kraków’s golden years.
Q62 rooms (10 singles 117 - 295zł, 50 doubles 155 - 360zł,
3 apartments 526zł). JHAKW hhh
PTTK Wyspiański D-3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. 012
422 95 66, fax 012 422 57 19, wyspianski@janpol.com.
pl, www.hotel-wyspianski.pl. While the blockish façade
doesn’t promise much, the Wyspiański is well worth every one
of its three stars. Rooms have been thoroughly modernised
and feature rather natty patterned duvets, private bathrooms
and televisions. The gleaming coaches regularly parked
outside testify to its popularity amongst tour groups. Q158
rooms (3 singles €55 - 120, 155 doubles €60 - 135, 82 triples
€84 - 175). OTYHARULGKW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. 012 421 35
00, fax 012 421 58 57, royal@holele21.pl, www.royal.
com.pl. A prime location in Planty Park is the setting for
this classic 19th century affair. Huge by Kraków standards,
this hotel has a basic one star section, as well as a fully
renovated two-star section featuring spotless bathrooms
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow just
5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and comfort to
our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves delicious Polish
and continental cuisine, while our guests also have the use of an
outdoor barbecue grill. We also offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Kraków
tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
WHERE TO STAY 37
and fittings. Q110 rooms (35 singles 200 - 300zł, 39
doubles 300 - 390zł, 12 triples 420 - 510zł, 13 quads 500
- 610zł, 4 suites 430 - 570zł, 12 apartments 620 - 650zł).
TJHARUGKW hh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. 012 269 10 00, fax 012
269 20 30, ruczaj@ruczajhotel.com.pl, www.ruczajhotel.
com.pl. Set in a new but classically stylish building in a resi-
dential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel for those willing to taxi
into town. All rooms boast unique balconies and furnishings
with an individual touch. Q45 rooms (8 singles 220zł, 17
doubles 300zł, 12 triples 380zł, 4 quads 460zł, 4 apartments
410zł). PTYHAUGKDW hhh
Saski C-2, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. 012 421 42 22, fax 012
421 48 30, info@hotelsaski.com.pl, www.hotelsaski.com.
pl. A classic hotel with big plant pots, tall windows and rococo-
style cabinets and sofas in each room. The hundred-year-old lift
which inches its way to the top can always be relied on for some
brief moments of entertainment. The Metropolitan restaurant,
right next door, cooks the best breakfast in Kraków. Q60 rooms
(9 singles 260 - 330zł, 33 doubles 310 - 410zł, 5 triples 420 -
460zł, 11 apartments 490 - 510zł). TJHAK hhh
System PREMIUM J-1, Al. 29 listopada 189, tel.
012 614 48 00, fax 012 634 05 08, premium.krk@
hotelsystem.pl, www.hotelsystem.pl. A high-standard
modern hotel featuring that great rarity in Kraków - a good
swimming pool. That aside, guests can expect comfortable
rooms fitted with neutral colour schemes, safe and cable
TV. In an added bonus, each room comes complete with its
own PC and free internet access. Q162 rooms (29 singles
229zł, 131 doubles 229zł, 2 apartments 329zł). Breakfast
33zł. THARUFGKDCW
October - November 2008
38 WHERE TO STAY
The Piano Guest House J-1, ul. Kątowa 4, tel./fax 012
632 13 71, tadeusz.platek@gk.pl, www.katowa4.com.
A charming guesthouse owned by a pianist and decorated
tastefully with antiques, wood floors, lacework and flowers.
An artsy option, and a warm welcome guaranteed. A garden
outback, and an atmosphere primed for those looking to enjoy
slow lane. Q10 rooms (10 singles €55, 8 doubles €65, 5
triples €75). TRGW
Trecius C-3, ul. Św.Tomasza 18, tel. 012 421 25 21, fax
012 426 87 30, hotel@trecius.krakow.pl, www.trecius.
krakow.pl. So central that you shouldn’t be surprised if you
are woken up by the old town bugle call. Each room comes
decorated in a simple, original style. Pick of the bunch is the
‘gothic double’, which includes stone columns and 13th cen-
tury brickwork - on which you can find the ‘devil’s paw print’.
Q8 rooms (8 singles 120 - 220zł, 8 doubles 150 - 300zł, 3
triples 250 - 285zł). Breakfast 8-16zł. TARG
U Pana Cogito H-4, ul. Bałuckiego 6, tel. 012 269 72
00, fax 012 269 72 02, recepcja@pcogito.pl, www.
pcogito.pl. Smart accommodation inside a super villa.
Decorated almost exclusively in crisp white colours U Pana
Cogito offers a high level of comfort at basement prices. One
of the rooms features its own private entrance. Q14 rooms
(14 singles 180 - 230zł, 9 doubles 220 - 280zł, 3 triples
250 - 330zł, 2 quads 290 - 380zł, 1 apartment 250 - 400zł).
PTHARUGK hhh
Warszawski D-1, ul. Pawia 4-6, tel. 012 424 21 00, fax
012 424 22 00, recepcja@hotelwarszawski.pl, www.
hotelwarszawski.pl. Warszawski’s rooms come decked out
with custom-made cabinets and floor-to-ceiling black marble
in the bathrooms. Every detail from memory locks to extra
Kraków In Your Pocket
quiet taps in the tubs has been considered. Q44 rooms (40
singles 250 - 350zł, 40 doubles 300 - 400zł, 4 apartments
350 - 450zł). TJHARULGW hhh
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. 012 424 13 00, fax
012 424 13 33, hotel@hotelwawel.pl, www.hotelwawel.
pl. Sweeping renovations have seen the Wawel transformed
into one of top mid-range options in the city. Set inside a
historic townhouse, the 19th century building still has several
secessionist touches, as well as a courtyard which will have
you wishing it was summer all year round. The huge rooms
come decorated with patterned duvets and beige and wood
finishes. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q39
rooms (36 singles 300 - 380zł, 27 doubles 410 - 460zł, 3
apartments 470 - 580zł). PJHALKDW hhh
Wielopole D-4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel./fax 012 422 14
75, office@wielopole.pl, www.wielopole.pl. An incredibly
good deal found three minutes from the Old Town. Simple,
spotless and recommended, this hotel features a matey
welcome in reception, and large rooms decked out in soft
browns.Q35 rooms (8 singles 210 - 250zł, 27 doubles
299 - 378zł). PTARULGK
Wit Stwosz D-3, ul. Mikołajska 28, tel. 012 429 60
26, fax 012 429 61 39, hotel@wit-stwosz.com.pl, www.
wit-stwosz.com.pl. A long-standing hotel with old but com-
fortable furnishings, wooden beams and bouquets of plastic
flowers. All rooms have crucifixes, bibles and religious paint-
ings - reminders that this hotel is the property of St. Mary’s
Basilica. Interestingly, the crib in the family room looks just
like the one in Polanski’s satanic classic, Rosemary’s Baby.
Q17 rooms (1 single €70, 10 doubles €85, 6 triples €99, 1
apartment €125). TJHAGK hhh
40 WHERE TO STAY
Budget
Aparthotel Sodispar I-1, ul. Lubelska 12, tel. 012
631 26 31, fax 012 631 26 34, info@sodispar.pl, www.
sodispar.pl. Comfortable flats and rooms with names like
Glasgow and Amsterdam rented out for both short and long
term stays (min two nights). All rooms boast internet access,
telephone and satellite TV, as well as modern bathrooms.
Apartments are in one building fifteen minutes walk from
the old town. Note that not all rooms have air conditioning.
Q13 rooms (5 singles €25 - 40, 5 doubles €30 - 50, 1
quad €37 - 75, 3 suites €60 - 100). No breakfast served.
PTHRLGW
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel./fax
012 431 00 26, info@apartmentskrakow.eu, www.
apartmentskrakow.eu. Several locations around the historic
centre with accommodation for upto six people. All apartments
come with fully fitted kitchens, cable TV and internet access.
Q18 rooms (18 apartments 180 - 440zł). Breakfast 20zł.
TJAULGW
Basztowa Guestrooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel.
012 429 51 81, fax 012 422 16 21, basztowa@room.
krakow.pl, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat rooms feature
parquet floors and a classic design accentuated by the use
of dark woods and oil paintings. Q24 rooms (22 singles
150 - 195zł, 22 doubles 150 - 195zł, 2 triples 240 - 260zł).
Breakfast 16-18zł. JA
Cracowdays A-1, ul. Grabowskiego 7/2, tel. 0 604 46
08 60, fax 012 633 84 10, reservation@cracowdays.
com, www.cracowdays.com. Another super deal with rooms
inspired by the owners passion for Italian. You’ll find four rooms
occupying the ground floor of a residential block, with many of
Kraków In Your Pocket
the furnishings imported direct from Italia. Some rooms feature
tiled ceramic heaters and hundred year old parquet floors,
while all have fully modernized bathrooms and access to a
well-kitted out kitchen and dining area. Q8 rooms (7 singles
€62 - 88, 7 doubles €67 - 88, 1 triple €90 - 98). Breakfest €8.
PTRGW
Cybulskiego Guest-rooms A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 6, tel.
012 423 05 32, recepcja@freerooms.pl, www.freerooms.
pl. Famous for once claiming to have ‘cattle’ in their rooms,
Cybulskiego have upgraded their accommodation and now
offer small, pleasant apartments armed with kitchenettes
(with kettle), bathrooms and parquet floors. Q16 rooms (16
singles 90 - 130zł, 16 doubles 120 - 160zł, 8 triples 150 -
180zł). THAGW
Etap Kraków Bronowice F-2, Al. Armii Krajowej 11a,
tel. 012 626 11 45, fax 012 626 20 60, h6605@accor.
com, www.orbisonline.pl. Some distance from the city
centre this place - like all Etap hotels - offers terrific value for
money. The tiny little rooms pack a powerful punch and have
comfy beds, televisions, enormous windows and impressive
bathrooms (with shower, no bath). For what you pay you get
a hell of a lot; recommended. Q120 rooms (120 singles
169zł, 120 doubles 179zł, 16 triples 179zł). Breakfast 18zł.
PAUG h
Home & Travel I-1, ul. Wrocławska 5a/1, tel. 012 633
80 80, fax 012 633 80 50, krakow@hometravel.pl, www.
hometravel.pl. Large, airy rooms complete with leather
couches, dataports and generously-sized bathrooms. There’s
plenty of attention to detail, including sweets and water coolers
in the hallway. Q15 rooms (10 singles 149 - 199zł, 6 doubles
199 - 219zł, 4 triples 278 - 298zł, 1 quad 357zł, 2 apartments
255 - 345zł). TJARW
Panorama I-5, ul. Lipińskiego 3/1, tel. 012 260 64 01,
fax 012 260 64 02, biuro@hotel-panorama.pl, www.hotel-
panorama.pl. Occupying the bottom floors of a high-apartment
block, the Panorama’s panorama may not be what you expect.
Rooms are stark and basic, but also clean and modern. The
curtains are ineffective against a bright dawn. Q19 rooms
(4 singles 140 - 170zł, 10 doubles 200 - 240zł, 5 triples 240 -
300zł, 1 suite 350 - 400zł). THAULGDW hh
Patria J-4, ul. Limanowskiego 1, tel. 012 656 22 60, fax 012
656 19 60, dom_wycieczkowy_patria@wp.pl, www.dom-
patria.com.pl. A great choice for those who want budget prices,
but no drunk backpackers throwing up in the sink. Dorm rooms are
totally new, and boast solid pine beds, skylights and TV. Shared
bathrooms are spotless, and there’s also several private rooms
that sport kitchenettes, showers and TV. Breakfast is served in
the adjoining fish restaurant. Q20 rooms (20 singles 90 - 140zł,
20 doubles 120 - 160zł, 20 triples 155 - 180zł, 20 quads 185 -
210zł.) 80 dorm beds 60 - 90zł per person. ARGK
Rubens J-4, ul. Rejtana 5, tel./fax 012 423 58 34, recep-
cja@hotel-rubens.pl, www.hotel-rubens.pl. You’ll find the
Rubens perched just across Most Pilsudskiego in a restored
property dating from 1910. Wood floored rooms have a touch
of the old world about them and include patterned rugs, paint-
ings and flowers, while at the same time touting modern day
necessities such as internet access and TV. Q13 rooms (1
single 99 - 130zł, 6 doubles 179 - 195zł, 5 triples 229 - 250zł,
1 quad 259 - 280zł). Breakfast 14zł. ARLGK
Start H-5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. 012 269 22 10, fax 012 269
04 05, rezerwacje@hotelstart.com.pl, www.hotelstart.com.
pl. A recent renovation to this 1980’s block has raised the star-
rating of this hotel to 2-stars and Start now offer clean, comfortable
and very affordable accommodation a 10-minute taxi ride away
WHERE TO STAY 41
from the city centre. TV and en-suite bathrooms throughout as
well as on-site conference facilities and restaurant are available.
Q66 rooms (42 singles 140 - 180zł, 42 doubles 160 - 200zł,
14 triples 220 - 270zł, 9 quads 260 - 320zł, 2 apartments 300 -
350zł). Breakfast 15zł. TYHAUK hh
System POP ul. Conrada 35 (Prądnik Biały), tel. 012 290
80 00, fax 012 290 80 01, pop.krk@hotelsystem.pl, www.
hotelsystem.pl. A stark modern exterior, not too different from
the structures found in retail parks, is the home of the best deal
in Kraków. You’ll probably find yourself taking a taxi to town, but
at these prices you’ll find plenty of loose change to play with. The
lobby comes in startling orange shades, with PC terminals allowing
guests free internet use, while rooms come with a few-frills design
that nonetheless looks modern and includes TV, telephone and
shower. Q106 rooms (103 singles 149zł, 101 doubles 169zł, 3
apartments 209zł). Breakfast 25zł. HARUGKW hh
Tournet D-6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. 012 292 00 88, fax 012
292 00 89, tournet@accommodation.krakow.pl, www.
accommodation.krakow.pl. Excellent pension-style accom-
modation in the heart of the Kazimierz quarter. Rooms come with
clean bathrooms, colourful duvets and effective heating. The more
expensive rooms have TVs and huge double beds, while all have
a kettle and alarm clock. Q17 rooms (17 singles 108 - 150zł, 16
doubles 128 - 200zł, 10 triples 220 - 250zł). TAW
Wrona J-4, ul. Piwna 7, tel. 012 656 32 92, fax 012 263
07 61, pensjonatwrona@wp.pl, www.noclegkrakow.pl.
Cheerful little guest house across the river from the old town.
Rooms are clean and have a distinctly Polish feel to them. Big
windows make the place bright but not stark. Easy tram con-
nections to the old town, or walk 20 minutes. Q14 rooms (2
singles 110 - 130zł, 8 doubles 140 - 160zł, 3 triples 180 - 200zł,
1 quad 200zł). Breakfast 15zł. ALG
October - November 2008
42 WHERE TO STAY
Apartments
AAA Kraków Apartments A-3, ul. Cybulskiego 2, tel. 012
426 51 21, fax 012 426 50 78, office@aaakrakow.com,
www.krakow-apartments.biz. All AAA properties are located in
superb Old Town buildings, and all are a triumph of interior design
over space. What were once clearly gloomy apartments have
been transformed into wonderful, bright living spaces that ooze
simple style. We especially like the Olive apartment on Mikołajska,
not least for the lift: try to work out how they fitted an elevator
into such a small space. An engineering marvel. Note that not all
apartments have air-conditioning. Q25 rooms (25 apartments
220 - 400zł). No breakfast served. PTJAGW
Affinity Flats B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012 428 72 00, fax
012 428 72 01, info@affinityflats.com, www.affinityflats.
com. Over 18 apartments to choose from across Kraków, includ-
ing a riverside location with views staring right onto Wawel Castle.
If you’re looking for something directly in town then they’ve got
flats right in the centre of old town, or our favourite, a series of
Italian-themed apartments on Karmelicka; situated inside a fully
restored 19th century townhouse, accommodation comes with
underfloor heating in the bathrooms, wifi access, air-conditioning
and 24hr security. A modern aesthetic prevails with the use of
clever colour coordination and top-of-the-range fittings. Some
great individual touches complement the rooms, including a bay
window in the Capri apartment, and an original aga dating from
1890 in the Roma suite. Airport pickup and other tourist services
also organized. Q18 rooms (18 apartments 200 - 400zł).
Breakfast 15zł. PTJHARGKW hhhh
Apartamenty na Kazimierzu E-6, ul. Izaaka 7, tel. 0 692
18 15 45, fax 012 423 00 12, info@apartamenty-kazimierz.
com, www.apartamenty-kazimierz.com. Found down a
Kazimierz side street this 19th century tenement features a
Affinity Flats, ul. Karmelicka 7, 31-133 Krakow, Tel/Fax +48 12 430 0818 www.affinityflats.com
Kraków In Your Pocket
range of apartments with names like Apartment Maman Lule
and Apartment Art Deco. The accommodation is not the artistic
hideaway such names suggest, but is modern and spotlessly
clean, with airy rooms and a quiet air. A good bargain, with a pretty
receptionist happy to indulge your conversation. Q5 rooms (5
apartments €60 - 100). No breakfast served. TAGW
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel./fax 012
431 00 26, info@apartmentskrakow.eu, www.apartmentsk-
rakow.eu. Several locations around the historic centre - including
Floriańska and Grodzka - with accommodation fitting upto six
people. All apartments come with fully fitted kitchens, cable TV
and internet access, and rooms come with a pleasant modern
aesthetic. Airport pick-up can also be arranged. Q18 rooms (18
apartments 180 - 440zł). Breakfast 20zł. TJALGW
Apar tment Marii Curie 5 E-3, ul. Marii Curie
Skłodowskiej 5/5, tel. 0 516 02 15 72, info@mariicu-
riestreet.com, www.5mariicuriestreet.com. A top-class
family-run venture with dressing gowns, DVD player and a
collection of books as part of the package, and rooms that
feature parquet floors and grand furnishings. Q3 rooms (3
apartments 460 - 550zł). Breakfast 25zł. THGW
Apartments Slawkowska 26 C-2, ul. Sławkowska
26, tel. 0 508 99 79 79, slawkowska@gmail.com, www.
apartments-cracow-oldtown.com. Two high class apart-
ments that are fitted with hand woven rugs over stripped
wood floors and luxurious wood carved beds that come with
deep pillows. Dark wood antiques and views of old Kraków
complete your immersion into this regal city. It should come
as no surprise the owners behind this operation are the
same team behind one of Kraków’s finest dining experi-
ences, Cyrano de Bergerac. Q (3 apartments €75 - 85).
No breakfast served. PRGK
Simply
the Best
WHERE TO STAY 43
Elegant D-5, ul. Dietla 81, tel. 012 421 18 94, fax 012 421 00 designers, will certainly give your stay in Kraków a bit more
99, elegant@interia.pl, www.elegant.krakow.pl. Great apart- flair than a conventionally classy hotel room - for about the
ments tucked off a beautifully renovated courtyard. All furnishings same money. Recommended by BBC Good Homes, these
and rooms carry the unmistakable flavour of recent refurbishment peerless apartments feature a plethora of plasma tvs and
- warm colours, new furniture and clean bathrooms. Q7 rooms (7 more aesthetic accoutrements such as a zen garden - em-
apartments 180 - 330zł). No breakfast served. RLG bedded in the actual floor of the flat. Combining simplicity,
style, elegance and attention to detail, finer flats are hard to
Golden Lion Apartments B-3, ul. Szewska 19, tel. 012 find. Q7 rooms (7 apartments €50 - 180). Breakfast €6-7.
422 93 23, fax 012 421 97 75, reservation@goldenlion. PTARLGDW
pl, www.goldenlion.pl. A set of attractively furnished rooms
catering for groups of upto five people. Rooms come in soft Old Town Apartments B-3, ul. Gołębia 2/3b, tel. 012
brown shades, some furnished with a couple of period flour- 421 42 01, fax 012 430 07 43, krakow@bookaa.net,
ishes and a kitchenette. A shared kitchen and dining room is www.warsawshotel.com. Warsaw-based agency renting
also available for the independent cook. Laundry service is fully equipped apartments in Cracow’s Old Town. Everything
available, and checkout times can be negotiated. Note that from efficient studios to 180m2 4-bedroom apartments
not all apartments have air-conditioning. Q12 rooms (12 convenient for 10 guests. Cheaper rates for longer stays.
apartments 350 - 540zł). PTALGW Q63 rooms (63 apartments €40 - 140). Breakfast €5.
TA6GW
Grodzka Apartments C-3, ul. Grodzka 4, tel./fax 012
421 48 35, info@krakowforyou.com, www.grodzka.net.
pl. Top-rate accommodation with facilities that include fridge,
LAN and cable TV. The interiors are a tasteful mix of old and
new: original brickwork and timber touches combined with
chic designer furnishings. Q11 rooms (11 apartments 180
- 400zł). Breakfast 15zł. THRFLGDW
Kolory Bed and Breakfast D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel./
fax 012 421 04 65, rezerwacja@kolory.com.pl, www.
kolory.com.pl. Ringside views of Kraków’s marvelously weird
pl. Nowy are part of the package in this B&B, where rooms
come simply furnished with springly beds, parquet floors
and a series of barmy ceramics that will present all manner
of temptation to your inner kleptomaniac. Pleasingly simple
with modern extras such as wifi internet access, ensuite bath-
rooms and satelite TV complimenting the array of local folk
art. Down below mix with the local academia over Kraków’s
best croissant inside the ground level Les Coleurs cafe/bar.
Q15 rooms (10 singles 140zł, 10 doubles 190zł, 2 triples
260zł, 1 suite 300zł, 2 apartments 300zł). PTAGW
Kraków City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel./
fax 012 431 00 41, info@krakowapartments.info, www.
krakowapartments.info. An old town location, though ac-
commodation comes overlooking a courtyard, guaranteeing a
good nights rest. Lift access means there’s no lugging bags
up stairs, and apartments come with modern furnishings,
living room and kitchen. Most can handle four guests, with
one apartment sleeping up to seven guests. Q8 rooms (8
apartments 170 - 640zł). Breakfast 20zł. TARLG
Kraków Homes J-3, ul. Odona Bujwida 1/1-3, tel. 0 509
82 82 22, info@krakowhomes.com, www.krakowhomes.
com. These six astonishing apartments, drafted by top
October - November 2008
44 WHERE TO STAY
APARTMENTS WITH A SOUL
IN THE HISTORICAL CENTER
ANTIQUE FURNITURE
COSY ATMOSPHERE
ul. Slawkowska 26, Cracow Old Town
Tel. : (0)508 99 79 79, (012) 429 54 45
www.apartments-cracow-oldtown.com
E-mail : slawkowska@gmail.com
TM
Office: 2 Gołębia Street 3b
Tel/fax: +48 (12) 421 42 01
www.warsawShotel.com • warsaw@bookaa.net
Kraków In Your Pocket
Old Town Studios B&B B-3, ul. Gołębia 2/3b, tel. 012
421 42 01, fax 012 430 07 43, krakow@bookaa.net,
hotels.krakow.pl. Comfortable fully equipped apartments
with breakfast all around the Main Square. Run by the same
team behind Old Town Apartments. This is a great choice for
the travellers with amenities featuring modern living rooms,
kitchen facilties and spanking clean bathrooms. Q14 rooms
(14 apartments €40 - 95). TAGW
Pod Krzyżykiem C-3, Rynek Główny 39/40, tel. 012
429 54 46, fax 012 421 59 97, biuro@podkrzyzykiem.
com, www.podkrzyzykiem.com. Two impressive apart-
ments overlooking the old town square, with features
including kitchen, bathroom, satellite television and an airy,
contemporary style inside a fully renovated townhouse. Con-
cierge service available, as well as discounts in their sister
restaurant (see Where to eat). Q2 rooms (2 apartments
390 - 790zł). Breakfast 25-50zł. TAKW
Redbrick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. 012 628 66 00, fax
012 430 19 19, redbrick@redbrick.pl, www.redbrick.
pl. Named after the renovated 19th century red brick build-
ing that houses this magnificent set of apartments. These
are superb lodgings and inspite of the historical surrounds
accommodation touts all the trappings of the modern world;
from 32 inch televisions to fully fitted modern kitchens. Those
looking to splash out should consider booking the two level
apartment, equipped to host as many as six people. The
customer is king here and Redbrick can provide transport to
and from the airport, as well as shopping services so all that
you need is already sitting on the shelves upon your arrival.
Q16 rooms (16 apartments 350 - 550zł). Breakfast 25zł.
THARLGK
Sekret Kazimierza E-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. 0 693 12
48 14, fax 012 429 67 83, contact@kazimierzs-secret.
com, www.kazimierzs-secret.com. Situated on the upper
floors of a 19th century Kazimierz tenement building, this
spot is set to become an open secret for all wishing to find
quality self-catering accommodation in the heart of Kraków’s
former Jewish quarter. There’s ten apartments to pick from,
all of which decorated in their own unique style. Choose from
the likes of the clean, light coloured loft apartment named
‘American Dream’ to the ‘Deutsch Apartment’ which sleeps
six and includes French windows looking onto a courtyard
and a scattering of traditional German keepsakes. Don’t let
the homely style fool you, all accommodation is equipped
with modern kitchens, high speed internet access and CD
players should you be travelling with your music collection.
Q10 rooms (10 apartments €88 - 140). No breakfast
served. TARG
Sleeping in Kraków C-2, ul. Sławkowska 4/9, tel. 0
601 292 292, fax 012 378 32 54, office@SleepingInK-
rakow.com, www.sleepingincracow.com. This might pos-
sibly be the best private apartment in the city. This enormous
two-bedroom property is right in the city centre and comes
with a great optional extra, what they call the full-fridge op-
tion. Yes, for an extra fee they will fill up the chiller with tons
of goodies. Brilliant. Q2 rooms (2 apartments 240 - 280zł).
No breakfast served. PTAGW
Sodispar Service Apartments I-1, ul. Lubelska 12,
tel. 012 631 26 31, fax 012 631 26 34, info@sodispar.pl,
www.sodispar.com. Serviced apartments in the centre of
old town, including locations on Floriańska and Szpitalna. The
accomodation, named after world cities, offers a modern style
and plenty of space for families and groups. Prices drop for
stays longer than a couple of nights. Q17 rooms (17 apart-
ments €30 - 139). No breakfast served. PTHRGW
WHERE TO STAY 45
Hostels & Dorms
City Hostel D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 21, tel. 012 426 18
15, fax 012 431 00 79, cityhostel@cityhostel.pl,
www.cityhostel.pl. The biggest hostel in Kraków, and
just minutes from both the Rynek and train station. Rooms
run from well-maintained private doubles to eleven bed
dorms, and each come with ensuite bathrooms; all still
in sparkling shape. This is one of the few hostels in town
equipped to handle disabled guests, and other bonuses We invite you to our apartments
include wifi access in the lobby, bicycle hire, free lockers
and free breakfast for early birds.Q18 rooms (6 singles in the center of Cracow’s old town
120 - 165zł, 6 doubles 160 - 195zł, 1 triple 210 - 285zł,
3 quads 240 - 325zł, 4 Five-person rooms 275 - 360zł, • 16 luxurious apartments with
2 Six-person rooms 310 - 400zł). 80 beds, 45-50zł per the glamour of a high-class hotel
person. ARUG
• fully equipped kitchens and bathrooms
Gardenhouse C-3, ul. Floriańska 5, tel./fax 012 • satellite TV, free Internet access
431 28 24, bo okings@gar denhouse.pl, w w w. • 24h reception desk
gardenhouse.pl. You’ll hear nothing but rave reviews
about Gardenhouse, and the praise is justified. Dorms
hold no more than six beds, making it a lot more private WELCOME!
than many of the hostels in town, while the team of
girls at reception match good looks with good ser vice.
Modern bathrooms, pine bunks, dar ts, table football
and an ‘express laundr y ser vice’ are a few of the perks
found inside the 15th centur y building. Q 14 rooms
(5 doubles 160zł). 32 dorm beds 60-65zł per person.
JARGW
Giraffe C-1, ul. Krowoderska 31, tel. 012 430 00 73,
fax 012 430 01 50, info@hostelgiraffe.com, www.
hostelgiraffe.com. Found directly north of the old city the
brand new Giraffe stakes a claim as one of the best hostels
to open for a long time, standing head and shoulders over
above the numerous new efforts which transpire to be little
more than a collection of bunks inside a scabby room. A
superbly minimalistic design is paired with spotless fittings
and a wooden giraffe guarding the reception. Well spaced
dorms contain solid wood bunks, while a tour of the hostel
reveals internet access, laundry and a bar area that is set
to become a legend. The sort of place where you book
for one night only to find yourself staying for ten more.
Q8 rooms (3 doubles 140zł). 46 dorm beds 35-60zł per
person. AGW
Good Bye Lenin J-3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel./fax
012 421 20 30, krakow@goodbyelenin.pl, w w w.
goodbyelenin.pl. Socialist realist posters hang from the
walls inside this commie-themed hostel, and the com-
mon room even touts a vintage TV from the 50s. Dorms
come with wooden bunk beds, and sleep no more than
ten maximum, and a bar was set to be unveiled at press
time. Separate room for internet, as well as free pick-
ups to and from the train station and the airport. Q 14
rooms (4 doubles 120 - 140zł). 70 dorm beds 35-60zł RED BRICK
per person. ALGW
is more than a hotel
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. 012 422 41
00, info@greg tomhostel.com, w w w.greg tomhos- ul. Kurniki 3, 31-156 Kraków
tel.com. A top hostel wi th a second location on ul. tel.:+ 48 12 628 66 00,
Warszawska 16/5. Both offer internet, DVD player and
bike rental, as well as hostel standards such as free + 48 12 628 66 20,
laundr y, ki tchen and linen. Aside from a guaranteed
warm welcome, the big gest boon here is a refusal to
fax :+48 12 430 19 19,
pack rooms out with as many beds as possible, making www.redbrick.pl
it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern furnish-
ings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Q 12 rooms (12 redbrick@redbick.pl
doubles 160zł, 3 quads 240zł). 23 dorm beds 50-60zł
per person. ALGW
October - November 2008
46 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 47

Kadetus A-4, ul. Zwierzyniecka 25, tel. 012 422 36 17,
fax 012 421 34 47, info@kadetus.com, www.kadetus.
com. A bijou 65 bed hostel offering brand new fixtures and
fittings and a slick design. Internet access, laundry and fully
stocked kitchen are all at your mercy and your host, Simon,
can organize everything from pub crawls to paintballing.
Q 20 rooms (15 singles 110 - 190zł, 15 doubles 130
- 210zł, 15 triples 180 - 240zł, 3 quads 200 - 280zł, 2 Five-
person rooms 300 - 325zł). 8 dorm beds 40zł per person.
TJALGW
Mama’s C-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel./fax 012 429 59 40,
hostel@mamashostel.com.pl, w w w.mamashostel.
com.pl. This 15th century building formerly housed a
cinema and a photo gallery and Ania, the propreitor, has
gone to pains to preserve this artsy legacy. Comfortable
furniture and sepia photographs decorate the common
room, and a small balcony looks out onto the courtyard.
Sunny dorms come with heavy pine beds cer tified to
hold individuals weighing up to 300 pounds. Q 7 rooms
(1 double 200zł). 54 dorm beds 45-100zł per person.
ARGW
Ҍ­Ç+‹;مČÀ‹;ÇÄ Momotown D-6, ul. Miodowa 28, tel./fax 012 429 69
Ë „áÅÅǽ;‹šÙ 29, info@momotownhostel.com, www.momotownhos-
tel.com. The outside wall of this budget (yes, even by hostel
standards budget) hostel is the first thing that will ctach your
¨‚™•fYÇ°xkÇ ÐÇxËáÇuxÇxu eye: weird graffiti such as ‘Jeanette, the best a man can get’
™I…ŒfYÇ°xkÇu uÇ –kÇuËk clearly aimed at the drunken Swedish student niche. Inside
expect standard dorm rooms, decent bathrooms and friendly,
ÙÙ٭ɂfÀfS½fÉz;½]f•­¨Œ multi-lingual staff who have clearly been trained to explain ev-
f„;…ŒYDž•s™GɂfÀfS½fÉz;½]f•­¨Œ ery rule and regulation to every customer. No lockout, curfew
or checkout.Q12 rooms (7 singles 90 - 140zł, 7 doubles
140 - 180zł, 4 triples 195zł, 4 quads 240zł). 52 dorm beds
45-55zł per person. AGW
than rows of bunk beds, more often than not occupied by
noisy Polish boy scouts. Showing an admirable disregard to
Kraków’s tourist status, most of the receptionists refuse to
speak English. Beware: curfew. Q 300 dorms beds 24-36zł
per person. Breakfast 8zł. G
Stranger H-2, ul. Dietla 97, tel./fax 012 432 09
09, krakow@strangerhostel.com, www.thestranger-
hostel.com. Good times aplenty in the backpacker-run
Stranger. The self-titled ‘Ju-Ju Lounge’ comes with DVD
library, broadband internet terminals and a ‘super-couch’
on which to veg out on and raise the idea of an orgy to
any Scandinavian lasses. Amenities include two kitchens,
laundry and dorms fitted with comfortable beds. Q 8
rooms (2 doubles 150zł, 1 triple 210zł). 62 dorm beds
25-40zł per person. AGW
The Secret Garden Hostel & Pension D-7, ul.
Skawińska 7, tel./fax 012 430 54 45, info@thesecret-
garden.pl, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Gone are the days
when budget lodgers would cramp into off-season student
dorms or take their chances in seedy hotels. The Secret
Garden is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s also
one of the best. Certainly the most colourful, quarters come
with names that leave no doubt over what colours to expect
on opening the door: from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky
via Mint Sorbet. Dorms come with comfortable pine bunks,
while private rooms are neat, simple efforts, with the addition
of wrough iron furnishings and colourful bed spreads. The
common room features low-slung sofas and a DVD library to
put to the test, while elsewhere this pension stroke hostel
boasts laundry services, free internet access and a garden
for barbecues if the season is right. Q18 rooms (11 singles
85 - 90zł, 11 doubles 130 - 140zł, 4 triples 165 - 180zł). 14
dorm beds 50-55zł per person. TAUGW
Airport hotels
Morawica Morawica 285, tel. 012 285 58 00, fax
012 285 58 80, rezerwacja.autostop.turystyka.pl,
www.motell.pl. Morawica is close to Balice Airport
and has easy access to Katowice and Kraków high-
ways. Clean, modern rooms and extras such as sauna,
restaurant, petrol station and car wash. Q32 rooms
(32 singles 135zł, 32 doubles 190zł). Breakfast 15zł.
PTHARUGKD hhh
Pod Kamykiem ul. Balicka 51, tel. 012 638 27 24,
fax 012 636 17 48, hotel@podkamykiem.pl, www.
podkamykiem.pl. If you’ve got an early morning flight
then a night at Pod Kamykiem is well worth considering.
Three kilometers from the airport, this is everything you’d
expect from a Krakowian pension: a huge suburban house
with clean rooms furnished in a plain, prim style. Q10
rooms (10 singles 170 - 200zł, 10 doubles 240zł, 10
triples 280zł). Breakfast 20zł. TARLGW hh
Trzy Kafki I-1, Al. Słowackiego 29, tel. 012 632
88 29, fax 012 631 76 35, info@trzykafki.pl, www.
trzykafki.pl. Plain and spar tan, but the fixtures and
fittings have been given a revamp, the staff are friendly,
and it’s no longer the shabby option of yesteryear. Per-
fectly acceptable, though it’s a ten minute walk from old
town and more suited to backpackers looking to explore
museums, as opposed to clubs. Q 31 rooms (4 singles
50 - 70zł, 17 doubles 70 - 90zł, 5 triples 90 - 110zł, 5
quads 110 - 130zł, 3 Five-person rooms 130 - 150zł,
2 Six-person rooms 150 - 170zł). Breakfast 12-16zł.
HARG

Further reading
Immerse yoursel f in the legends and folklore of
Kraków’s historic centre by picking up Maciej Miezian’s
excellent Kraków’s Old Town (Wydawnictwo Bezdroża,
2004). Packed with enter taining anecdotes this
paperback companion is a romp through the area’s
history, and Miezian leaves no stone unturned in this
meticulous work. Writing with colourful enthusiasm the
author’s style is breezy and infectious, far removed
from turgid ramblings of other historians who have
tried but failed to write about the city in the manner
it warrants. Traditionally the preserve of speccy,
reclusive professors, Miezian brings Kraków’s past
alive with his prose, and is not averse to cheeky ob-
servations. It’s in this work we learn that attendances
were boosted in the early years of the Słowacki the-
atre by the figures of topless women, and of the fiery
temperament of the local intelligentsia: ‘the students
often started brawls. And they were good fighters.
Once, when despairing town councillors sent canons
against the students, they took them over, aimed them
at the town hall and demanded various concessions’.
Other observations include the assertion that Veit
Stoss’ altar in St Mary’s was so well detailed that
scientists were able to conduct a study on medieval
skin conditions, concluding that syphilis was doing
a roaring business in Europe long before Columbus
had returned from the Americas. From cover to cover
this is a fascinating read, admirably translated, and a
superb tool for anyone yearning to explore the lesser
known side of Kraków’s rich history. Find it in all good
bookshops retailing at 35zł.
Nathan’s Villa Hostel C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1, tel./
fax 012 422 35 45, krakow@nathansvilla.com, www.
nathansvilla.com. Kraków’s original hostel. There’s been
a million copycats since, but none do it better. That’s partly
down to Nathan, a man who takes the happiness of his
guests seriously - even if it that means drinking till dawn
with them. There’s a bit of a reputation for revelry here,
and you’ll find the party in the basement where a network
of chambers house a bar, pool table and even a mini-cinema.
But this is more than just a hedonists hostel, as proved
by the top-notch conditions of dorms and bathrooms.
Capacity is constantly increasing here, and more ensuite
privates have been added to cater for the higher-class of
backpacker. And best of all, with summer in swing, there’s
barbecues each night, with the proceedings overseen by
none other than The Sausage Man. Q21 rooms (4 singles
160 - 180zł, 4 doubles 160 - 180zł). 118 dorm beds 50-65zł
per person. JAGW
Old Town B-2, Pl. Szczepański 6/5, tel. 012 429 59 64,
info@oldtownhostel.pl, www.oldtownhostel.pl. There’s
a wave of hostels opening in Kraków, and here’s one more
to join the club. Gone are the days of curfews and old hags
eyeing foreigners with suspicion; Old Town Hostel follows the
standads set by places like Nathan’s Villa: no curfew, laundry
and top staff. Clean, warm and central, they do the basics
well. Q4 rooms (1 single 75 - 85zł, 1 double 100 - 120zł).
14 dorm beds 45-55zł per person. TJLGW
Oleandry YHA H-3, ul. Oleandry 4, tel. 012 633 88 22,
fax 012 633 89 20, schronisko@smkrakow.pl, www.
smkrakow.pl. The fading socialist art inside this bleak block
remind you when it was built, while the stale rooms might give
you a hint when it was last renovated. Rooms are no more

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

48 WHERE TO STAY
Out of town
Dwór w Tomaszowicach ul. Krakowska 68, Tomaszo-
wice, tel. 012 419 20 00, fax 012 614 08 08, dwor@
dwor.pl, www.dwor.pl. A historic manor house, granary
and orangery set in well-tended parkland. You’re a twenty
minute taxi ride from the old town, so it’s more aimed at
company conferences, weekend getaways and weddings.
Hotel rooms are clean and crisp, while suites boast unique
lofted beds. The staff will help you arrange tours of Kraków
attractions or special banquets and theme events on the
premises.Q42 rooms (35 singles 290zł, 35 doubles 330zł,
3 triples 410zł, 3 suites 440zł). THARUGKDW
hhh
Orient ul. Sołtysowska 25a (Nowa Huta), tel. 012 646
91 00, fax 012 646 92 02, rezerwacja@hotelorient.pl,
www.hotelorient.pl. This brand new brick and aquamarine
hotel has managed, impressively, to meld top-notch business
facilities with unique style. All the amenities you could ask
for in addition to original artwork in all the rooms, and rooms
for the disabled. Travel to town with taxis from the stand
outside the hotel. Q58 rooms (56 singles 260 - 360zł, 56
doubles 320 - 420zł, 3 suites 450 - 550zł). PTHARU
FLKDC hhhh
Twardowski Głogoczów 661, tel. 012 273 77 95, fax
012 273 77 97, twardowski@hotel-twardowski.com,
www.hotel-twardowski.com. Eight kilometres from Kraków,
Twardowski is the perfect solution if you find yourself snared
in traffic on the way from Zakopane. The traditional restaurant
and bar feature a log fire, while rooms come replete with
neat, wooden furnishings. Q16 rooms (16 singles 150zł,
16 doubles 180zł). HAUKW hh
Kraków In Your Pocket
Twierdza (The Fortress) ul. Do Fortu 8, Zielonki, tel.
012 285 08 08, fax 012 285 00 08, hotel@twierdza.
com.pl, www.twierdza.com.pl. This upmarket hotel located
on the quiet fringes of a forest, is in fact a renovated 19th
century fortress. Down long, surreal corridors are spacious,
bright and comfortable rooms, all of which come with big
bathrooms and satellite TV. Q23 rooms (18 singles 175zł,
18 doubles 225zł, 3 suites 265zł, 2 apartments 315zł).
THARUK hhh
Villa Pacoldi Paczółtowice 328, tel. 012 258 85
00, fax 012 258 85 99, hotel@golf.krakow.pl, www.
krakow-valley.com. Part of the Kraków Valley Golf and
Country Club, so don’t be surprised to find blokes bowling
around in Lacoste trading golfing anecdotes. Clean-cut
accommodation inside a newly-built lodge offers cream
coloured rooms and smart wood finishes, while downstairs
find a medieval-style restaurant complete with pictures of
nobility and a stone fireplace. Golf, shooting, horse-riding
and conference facilities are there to abuse. Q16 rooms
(14 singles 270zł, 13 doubles 320zł, 2 apartments 400 -
500zł). PHARUGKW hhh
Zamek Korzkiew Korzkiew near Ojców, (Przybysławice),
tel. 012 419 55 90, fax 012 378 37 79, zamek@doni-
mirski.com, www.donimirski.com. Quite something. Four
apartment suites, each bearing their own coat-of-arms, inside
a castle dating from the 14th century. Each suite comes
with its own design, and luxurious fittings combine with
the modern trappings you’d associate with such a unique
venture. One in a million, and a great place to treat someone
special. Fifteen kilometres from Kraków. Q 4 rooms (4
singles 480zł, 4 doubles 520 - 590zł, 1 triple 555zł, 1 quad
660zł). THARG
With the development of the market in Krakow, the number
and choice of places to eat has become pretty wide. That
doesn’t mean to say that it is all good. Ethnic cuisines are
generally brutalised in an attempt to make them acceptable
to Polish palates. The figures we quote in brackets are the
cheapest and dearest main courses on the menu. The opening
hours we list are given to us by the restaurants but are rough
guidelines as to when you can expect the chef to be working.
American
Jeff’s J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. 012
433 03 30, www.jeffs.pl. You’ll find Jeff’s inside a shopping
mall but that does nothing to deter the American expats who
use this place as a comfort blanket. This is your classic TGI
rip off, only these guys do it better, with both the steak and
ribs regularly eliciting glowing reports from Yank exiles. Staff
with sugar smiles keep the drinks flowing while interiors are
your standard soup of road signs and number plates. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. (19-59zł). PTAEXSW
Rooster D-3, ul. Mikołajska 5, tel. 012 426 95 90, www.
rooster.pl. Of the two Rooster Cafes in Kraków we prefer this
one, as it has a sublime courtyard that serves as a cooling
oasis in the hot summer months. Otherwise it is much the
same as elsewhere: cracking girls in the tiniest uniforms serv-
ing superior burger bar food to a mix of leering Dads, elderly
couples who wandered in by accident and footie fans watching
the match on the big screens: this is one of the most reliable
places in town to find football on the box. QOpen 11:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (18-47zł). TAXS
Rooster B-2, ul. Szczepańska 4, tel. 012 411 36 72, www.
rooster.pl. Is Rooster on the fast track to respectibility? Who
knows, but given that the clientele is far less lerring lads than it
once was says a lot about this infamous chain. We have always
liked the place: the kids get a toy with their meal, they have a little
play area to amuse themselves in, there is a well segregated
no-smoking area. Dad of course can simply sit and admire the
scenery. The food is decent, excellent value upmarket burger fare,
with a small children’s menu (though note the children’s portions
are what would be standard portions in other places). QOpen
11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (18-47zł). TJAXS
Sioux Classic C-3, Rynek Główny 22, tel. 012 421 34 62,
www.sioux.krakow.pl. This franchise does cowboy and injun
kitsch at its finest. Beautiful squaws and amateur ranch-hands
in ten-gallon hats swagger about the cattle wrangling decor,
serving pseudo-Mexican and American chow to customers
inside stagecoachs. It’s all in good fun, with outrageous ambi-
ance and a hysterical English menu (featuring dishes like ‘Steak
a la Blunt Arrow in Bison’s Rump’) making up for the inevitable
kraut and pickles in your burrito. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (18-99zł). PTJAEXSW
RESTAURANTS 49
Symbol key
R Internet A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
6 Animal friendly J Old Town location
W Wi-Fi P Air conditioning
B Outside seating V Home delivery
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton
Kraków), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/
krakow. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as a
one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown of
Uncle Sam’s favourites with meals regularly concluding with
deft beneath-the-table manoeuvres to loosen the belt. As
the rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests, this place
doesn’t take itself as seriously as most hotel eateries, and
the results are evident in some seriously lively nights; plasma
screens relay all the big fixtures, while live bands frequently
encourage the visiting business droids to lose both ties and
inhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (28-80zł). PTAUXS
Bagels
Bagelmama D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 012 431 19
42, www.bagelmama.com. It’s hard to call Bagelmama a
restaurant, this is after all essentially no more than an open
kitchen with a couple of tables thrown in on the customer
side. Your reason for dropping in are the best bagels in Po-
land, served up by the American exile Nava, a man whose
fans include John McEnroe. Cinnamon, poppy seed and garlic
bagels come with toppings that range from tuna to curry, and
there’s also an expanded menu featuring extras like tortilla
wraps, salads and burritos. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. (6-15zł). GS
Brazilian
Ipanema D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 28, tel. 012 422 53 23,
www.ipanema.pl. A pleasant restaurant dolled up with
fishing nets, antique maps and bunches of bananas hanging
from branches. Start with the avocado soup before flipping a
coin to choose between either their South American or Afro-
Brazilian-inspired menu. Although the results won’t make your
earth move, it’s encouraging to see somewhere in Kraków
trying different things. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (19-115zł).
PTAUXSW
OPEN FROM 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. Closed Monday.
October - November 2008
50 RESTAURANTS
Chinese
Czer wony Smok J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria
Kazimierz), tel. 012 433 03 51. The setting may well
be inside a shopping mall and there’s certainly a large
coloured aeroplane hanging from the roof, but if you can
stomach these things then your stomach will be delighted
with you. Fine, mostly spicy Chinese food, served hot from
metal containers for practically giveaway prices. Unlike the
tampered-with Chinese food found for sale in the UK, this is
the real thing. Authentic, delicious, and highly recommended.
Q Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (15-25zł).
PTUGSW
French
Brasserie E-7, ul. Gazowa 4, tel. 012 292 19 98, www.
brasserie.krakow.pl. A delightfully quirky, red-brick, former
tram garage attracts a mixed crowd of diners from the kind
of people who ride on trams to the kind of people who own
the trams the former people ride on. The equally mixed
menu includes a good choice of vegetarian dishes, veal, and
frogs legs in breadcrumbs. Good news for les porcs is the
monster plate of seafood for two. A better than average wine
list rounds off the affair rather nicely. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(32-43zł). TAUXS
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. 012
411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl. No foolhardy
attempts at foreign cuisine here, just top class food in a top
class atmosphere. Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a
magnificent white tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and
famed throughout the city for scores of dishes including an
exceptional foie gras and the occasional experimental hit. Set
against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries and located
Kraków In Your Pocket
in a classic medieval cellar, if you’re going to push the boat
out while you’re in town, there are few better places to push
it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by none other than
the Michelin Guide. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (44-
80zł). TAREXS
Guliwer C-3, ul. Bracka 6, tel. 012 430 24 66, www.
guliwer.zaprasza.net. Strings of herbs and bunches of
flowers hang from the walls in this Provence-style locale. The
onion soup is good value, and this is a favourite stamping
ground for the older generation diners. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(33-56zł). AS
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. 012 422 65 64,
www.bblafontaine.com. The decent courtyard terrace is
the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, where good French
food is served by well-trained staff who actually appear to
enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns
out classics such as medallions of veal with chanterelle
mushrooms, or fresh foie gras with port and armagnac. The
set tasting menus are good value at 65zł. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (39-54zł). PTARUXS
Paese C-4, ul. Poselska 24, tel. 012 421 62 73, www.
paese.pl. A Corsican themed eatery with a design that fea-
tures a thatched ceiling and knotted ropes. Pleasant though
occasionally inconsistent offerings include feta-stuffed pork
fillets and salmon served on spinach leaves. Hit them on the
right day and you’ll find yourself returning a second time.
QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (19-41zł).
PTAXSW
Redolfi C-3, Rynek Główny 38, tel. 012 423 05 79,
www.redolfi.krakow.pl. An excellent location and a refresh-
ingly tatty interior greet a batallion of diners from dedicated
RESTAURANTS 51
locals to the occasional tourist in what’s by most accounts
a fairly decent restaurant. Skip the breakfast and lunch
menus (during which time Redolfi functions more as a café
than restaurant) and dine here in the evening on pricey but
good food including veal roulades and Provence-style lamb
chops. There’s a good wine list too, that can get expensive
if you’re not careful. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. (44-62zł).
JAXSW
Fusion
Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www.
karmelicka52.com. A completely un-Krakowian effort with
a futuristic design that relies on clever lighting, a spacious
set up and a slick atmosphere more commonly associated
with the lounge bars of the capital. By day the menu is as
adventurous as any you’ll come across in Kraków with asian
styled fusion offerings picked at by a chic crowd. The darker
it gets the more this place melts into a pre-club spot, with
Bambi girls sipping expert cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. (15-50zł). PTAUXSW
Georgian
Gruzińskie Chaczapuri C-2, ul. Floriańska 26, tel. 012
292 02 44, www.chaczapuri.pl. An unremarkable interior of
sturdy wooden furnishings and rough-hewn white walls comes
alive every evening as this place fills with noisy diners hoisting
pint glasses and tucking into plates cascading with crinkly
fries, cabbage and meaty dishes. Vegetarians haven’t been
overlooked and you’ll find a couple of decent veggie lawasz
options on the menu. Fine dining this is not, but definitely a
destination for a boozy dinner. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (14-
30zł). TAXS
Hungarian
Balaton C-4, ul. Grodzka 37, tel. 012 422 04 69, www.
Greek balaton.krakow.pl. A surprise result on the Kraków dining
Akropolis C-5, ul. Grodzka 9, tel. 012 421 77 25. scene. Sure it looks seedy but the good news is that the service
They do Greek food here, but it’s certainly not as the gods is excellent, you can smoke in the non-smoking section and the
intended. Sit inside amid a flimsy interior of Doric pillars and food represents one of the best deals you’ll find. The fish soup acts
wall frescoes or else form a line outside their kebab window as an excellent prelude to your steaming plate of goulash. Recom-
if you’re curious to learn what it feels like to have your guts mended. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (24-35zł). PTAXS
skewered by Satan’s trident. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 05:00. (15-25zł). XS Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. 012 430 64 04, www.
delibar.pl. A bright modern eatery whose orange walls come
Hellada H-1, ul.Królewska 55, tel. 012 637 20 86, www. decorated with blow-up photos of paprika and goulash. It
hellada.website.pl. Cheesy, tacky, tasteless and a complete doesn’t take a brainbox to work out what’s the order of the
caricature of itself, Hellada presents diners with more stone day here, this place is Hungarian through and through, and
cladding and plastic plants than you’d ever think you’d see. you’ll find a stack of red hot, spicy dishes on the list here.
Thank god the food is there to balance out the design over- And it’s not just the bloodthirsty who’re catered for here, non-
sights. Kraków doesn’t really do Greek, but this isn’t a bad carnivores get a fair choice of fish, salads and soups to test.
attempt, and if nothing else it’s a good laugh and a cheap Best of all, the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale.
night out. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (14-30zł). AXS QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (8-25zł). TUXS
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October - November 2008
52 RESTAURANTS
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori E-6, ul. Szeroka 7-8, tel. 012 422
37 97, www.restauracjabombaj.pl. The curries here just
smack of something tipped from a jar saying Uncle Ben’s,
while spice levels have clearly been adapted to pander to
conservative local tastes - ordering extra hot here won’t
leave your kids orphaned. For the prices you can’t expect
much more, and if nothing else it’s a decent diversion from
all the menorahs and prayer shawls on display in neighbour-
ing restaurants. Find a pleasant if slightly stark interior
gently splattered with some patterned tablecloths and pics
Himalayan mountain scenes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (16-40zł). PTAIES
Indus Tandoor C-2, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. 012 423
22 82. A long narrow space decorated with beads, patterned
fabrics and pictures of Maharajas posed atop of elephants.
There’s a near constant line of people filing in and out of this
restaurant, attracted no doubt by the best Indian food Kraków
has to offer. Spice levels rarely threaten to reach volcanic, but this
is nevertheless a vast improvement on the ethnic experience of
yesteryear. If you’re lucky you may find the waiter entertaining you
with stories of daring on the high seas, if not you’ll be served by a
waitress who looks like she’s just dealt with the bailiffs. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (16-45zł). PAXS
International
A1 B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6, tel. 012 421 01 44, www.a1r-
estauracja.com.pl. Situated within dancing distance of the
Rynek this newbie was literally just opening their doors as we hit
the printing press, and all we can say so far is they’ll be offering
up a mix of Mediterranean dishes and sushi. Full review on it’s
way.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (38-54zł). PTAEXS
Kraków In Your Pocket
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel),
tel. 012 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.pl.
Classy staff serve Polish classics taken to new heights in
sumptuous surroundings. In other words, a treat. Try the
classic żurek soup - we do not think we have ever tatsed
better - before moving on to the superb roast pork with
fried sauerkraut and potato puree: you will wonder how
such simple flavours can be so rich. But that is the whole
point of Amadeus: simplicity and class win over every time.
Recommended most heartedly. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(35-99zł). PTYAUEXW
Ancora C-4, ul. Dominikańska 3, tel. 012 357 33 55,
www.ancora-restaurant.com. A crisply designed restau-
rant with bedsheet white walls and carefully tended shrubs
guarding the doorway. Both restaurant and menu are modern
Mediterranean in style and Ancora looks set to establish
itself as the perfect alternative to the numerous Kraków
restaurants committed to serving little more than cows and
cabbage. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (41-59zł). PAXS
Avocado Resto Bar D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 1, tel. 012
422 04 86, www.restoavocado.pl. You will notice this place
immediately, as even in quirky Kazimierz it stands out: that
being they go the extra mile with the terrace furniture, comfy
chairs with big cushions as opposed to the usual IKEA job lot.
The food is good too, with a few treats such as chicken stuffed
with spinach and feta cheese once again showing a fair bit of
imagination: not always evident in these parts. The chocolate
mousse we had to round off our meal was a dream. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (19-59zł). PTAUIXSW
Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. An attractive modern
space that has created plenty of ripples with a drinks
menu that is second to none - 100 vodkas says it all. But
it’s not just about drinking, and there’s a menu to peruse
that includes a decent spread of salad, grilled salmon and
even fried ice cream. This place could well prove to be
the hit of the summer. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (17-38zł).
PAXSW
Bom Fogo D-4, ul. Wielopole 4 (Holiday Inn
Hotel), tel. 012 619 03 00, w w w.hik.krakow.pl.
An interesting restaurant inside the Holiday Inn wi th
swirl y patterned carpets and cur v y interior features.
The menu is Medi terranean in content, wi th a page
devoted to special ties of the local cuisine in case you
haven’t alread y had enough. A pri vate dining room is
available to special par ties or those who simpl y can’t
bear the si te of watching others eat. For after dinner
drinks retire wi th th e cock tail of your choice to th e
Refle ctions bar. Q Open 18:00 - 23:00. (41-85zł).
PTAUXW
Boogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. 012 429 43 06, www.
boogiecafe.pl. A shining black and white restobar with pics
of the jazz greats and a soundtrack that is strictly live jazz
on Thursday and Friday, and chillout all other times. On the
menu it’s light bites, baguettes, snacks and pasta. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (16-25zł). AUEXW
Cafe Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) C-3, Rynek Główny
1/3, tel. 012 422 24 68, www.cafe-sukiennice.krakow.
pl. Eating here, or drinking a coffee even, increasingly feels
like a bout of solitary confinement. It appears that even
first-time visitors have cottoned onto the fact that this is
first and foremost a tourist trap, and the ongoing renova-
tion of Cloth Hall above has not helped matters either. It is
a shame, for it is a glorious place, and the location is little
less than quintessential Kraków. What this place needs is
a new lease of life, else it will be lost in the Rynek limbo.
We will keep you posted. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (18-65zł).
AXSW
Coltrane Restaurant & Music Bar B-1, ul.
Biskupia 4, tel. 0 500 21 63 17, w w w.coltrane-
restaurant.pl. If you’re looking to bypass American frat
kids and British rugby teams then head to this secret
den, a sleek and shining jazz haunt situated in an area
completely off the Lonely Planet radar. The design throws
no surprises your way, with the standard collection of
black leather and pics of trumpeters, but the food is well
worth further investigation - some decent main courses,
including a tasty onion soup and duck ser ved up with
cranberr y sauce. The live music ain’t bad either, though
you’ll only get to listen to it on the weekend. Q Open
08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
(14-25zł). PAEXS
RESTAURANTS 53
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus
Hotel), tel. 012 424 34 21, w w w.hotel.com.pl.
The menu aims high, and gets resul ts wi th gourmet
choices like duck foie gras. You certainly get what you
pay for and the interior, modern Italian, wouldn’t be out
of place in Milan. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (69-129zł).
PTAUIEXSW
Cul-De-Sac D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4 (Gródek Hotel), tel.
012 431 20 41, www.donimirski.com. Occupying a
space inside the Hotel Gródek Cul de Sac is the definitive
dining experience. The menu is short and concise, and
features beautifully presented delicacies like veal cutlets
served with mint. A Kraków highlight and defnitely a place
for romancing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (56-80zł). PT
JAUGSW
The University
It might be hard to believe but the young reprobates you
see staggering out of Kraków’s student bars actually
represent Poland’s educational elite. Kraków’s Jagiellonian
is rated Poland’s best university, as well as one of the old-
est in Europe – in Central Europe only Prague’s Charles
University predates it. Its story begins in 1364, following
years of pleading King Kazimierz finally persuaded the
groovily titled Pope Urban V to grant permission to establish
a seat of higher learning. Three years later the school bell
was ringing in the lessons, namely in philosophy, law and
medicine. Originally named the Studium Generale the uni
started to flourish the following century when maths and
astrology were introduced, and it was around this time
when you’d have been able to spot Nicolas Copernicus –
founder of modern day astronomy – hurrying to lectures.
Renamed Jagiellonian in 1817 the university survived the
petitioning of Poland and continued to prosper; in 1883
professors Olszewski and Wróblewski became the first
to liquefy oxygen and nitrogen from air, while the brainbox
Cybulski got to the bottom of what adrenalin was all about.
The Nazi invasion heralded the end of Jagiellonian’s golden
age. On November 6, 1939 the Germans lured a over a 100
professors and lecturers to the campus, before arresting
and imprisoning them – many were to die in the death
camps. Following the war the college played its part in the
anti-totalitarian protests of the 60s and 80s, and nowadays
the university has recovered from the hardships of the last
century. Attended by over 44,000 students you’ll find the
bulk of the universities buildings occupying the south west
of the old town. To learn more about it don’t miss a visit to
the University Museum (see What to see).
October - November 2008
54 RESTAURANTS
Farinella B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. 012 422 21 21, www.
farinella.pl. Brilliant tapas bar where light, fresh meals are served
in a bright and breezy atmosphere by friendly staff. At lunch try one
of the tasty ciabattas (8-11zł), or something a little more adventur-
ous, such as the brilliantly dressed salad with oscypek (traditional
Polish smoked cheese) - a taste sensation at 19zł. There is a great
range of wine, and more types of bread than we knew existed.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (15-40zł). PTAXS
Floriańska C-2, ul. Floriańska 43, (first floor), tel. 012
421 08 70, www.restauracja-florianska.pl. A cracking
addition to Krakow’s old town. A nice design uses patterned
wallpaper and antiques, though the restaurant manages to
maintain a chic, modern aesthetic. The menu is European with
a slant towards the Italian end of things, and includes pork
sirloin marinated in pepper vodka and stuffed with cheese.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (23-57zł). PTAIEGS
Kuchnia i Wino (Cuisine and Wine) D-6, ul. Józefa 13,
tel. 012 430 67 10, www.kuchniaiwino.eu. An intimate
Kazimierz spot with floral tablecloths and a limited Mediterra-
nean menu. But what sounds like a run-of-the-mill local bistro
has gathered a reputation as one of the best meals in the
area. The chef is the owner, and so has a personal interest in
delivering outstanding quality to your table. Recommended.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-52zł). AIX
Lemonday B-5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. 012 423 18 43,
www.lemonday.pl. A modern aesthetic with floor-to-ceiling
windows allowing guests to make the most of the Wawel
views. Plenty of glass and shining surfaces inside this effort
found inside the Pod Wawelem hotel, with a far-reaching menu
that includes everything from burgers and local classics to
a couple of fusion offerings. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
06:30 - 23:00. (18-48zł). PTAUXSW
Magnifica ul. Jugowicka 10c, (Łagiewniki-Borek
Fałęcki), tel. 012 252 70 10, www.magnifica.pl. Hav-
ing cooked for the King of Belgium and Prince Rainier of
Monaco head chef Jean Bos is the closest Kraków comes to
a celebrity chef, and his modern European menu has already
seen Farmona vaunted as the most exciting dining develop-
ment Kraków has seen for years. Dishes come exquisitely
presented inside a sharp modern interior that features a
fireplace, leather seats and slick chocolate colours. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (25-64zł). PTAUIGSW
Mauretania E-7, Bulwar Kurlandzki, tel. 0 692 383 661,
www.mauretania.biz. Named after the historic Cunard liner
the Mauretania restaurant allows diners to eat on board an at-
mospheric boat moored on the banks of the Wisła. Cross the
gangplank before choosing either to dine outside on the top level,
or inside a narrow timber room fitted out with forest green carpets,
navigational dials and oil paintings of naval moments. The menu
is not as nautically inclined as you would imagine, with the chef
extending his repertoire to cover pastas, pancakes and green
pepper steak. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (18-33zł). PAW
Metropolitan C-3, ul. Sławkowska 3, tel. 012 421 98
03, www.metropolitan-krakow.com. Rumours of a decline
have been exaggerated, this is still Kraków’s best breakfast
with a choice of British fry-ups or American-style maple syrup
pancakes to help soak up the liquid indulgences of the night pre-
vious. Metropolitan’s breakfasts are the stuff of legend, though
this place is by no means a one trick pony. As the hours tick
by this cosmopolitan, wood-fitted spot fills up with an urbane
crowd taking their pick from a quasi-fusion menu. Best of all an
open kitchen means there’s no chance of some jester choosing
to do obscene things to your order. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,
Sun 07:00 - 22:00. (31-77zł). PTAXSW
Kraków In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS 55
Floriańska
No other street in Kraków has been awarded more
column inches than ulica Floriańska. Marking the start
of what was once referred too as The Royal Route it’s
down here that visiting monarchs would enter Kraków
before proceeding onwards to Wawel Castle. Today much
of Floriańska is in danger of disappearing under a sea of
neon signs advertising kebabs, and cheap outdoor stalls
selling essentials such as plastic assault rifles and furry
dragons. But scratch the surface and you’ll find another
side to Floriańska. But before you start your walk in the
footsteps of kings take time out to visit the Barbakan
just outside main gateway. Originally built in 1498 this
fortress is Arabesque in style, and features spiky turrets
and walls three metres thick. Constructed following a raid
on the city by King Jan Olbracht the bastion was never
taken by force. Who designed it remains a source of
contention with some historians even suggesting it to be
the work of Veit Stoss, the man more widely known for
creating the altarpiece in St Mary’s Basilica.
Standing behind the fortress lies Floriańska Gate,
the official gateway to Kraków’s old town. Completed in
1307 the gateway is one of the few surviving defensive
elements that once circled Kraków. The 33 metre tower
has changed little since its construction, with only a few
additions such as a baroque roof, a Piast eagle on one
of the walls, and the figure of St Florian looking down
on the street that bears his name. The patron saint of
Poland (and chimney sweeps and fire fighters), Florian
was drowned by Roman soldiers in the Danube after
refusing to make a sacrifice to the gods, and his remains
are apparently interred in the Church of St Florian (D-1,
ul. Warszawaska 1). A painstaking renovation has seen
the gate transformed from a soot eaten horror to the
gleaming structure it now is, and the walls that sprout
off it are today home to open air exhibits by aspiring
local artists. The walls themselves though came within
a whisker of being torn down, and only survived after the
plaintive pleadings of Feliks Radwański, a local gent who
argued that demolishing the fortifications would lead to
strong winds blowing ladies skirts up. Unfortunately for
the local lads the city council agreed and a plaque now
commemorates Radwański’s do-gooding.
If you’re looking for somewhere salubrious to stay
then make haste to the Pod Różą on Floriańska 15 (see
Where to stay). This is reputed to be the oldest hotel in
the city, and if the Latin inscription above the doorway
is to believed it will continue to do so marring some
very interesting global events: ‘May this building stand
until an ant drinks the ocean, and a tortoise circles the
earth’. The building actually originally served as the 16th
century HQ of Queen Bona’s courtier and postmaster,
Prospero Provano. His postal workers faced a messy
demise when they were all burnt alive on the queens
behest after a letter of hers found itself in the wrong
hands. Provano’s team of couriers were no more than
carrier pigeons, though one can’t help but speculate
that if such measures were still enforced Poland’s postal
system would be a little more dependable. In later years
the building evolved into the Hotel De Russie, with guests
including Tsar Alexander II, Franz Liszt and Napoleon’s
Persian envoy, Mohamed Riza. One name who never
lodged here however was Honore de Balzac, though the
plaque mounted on the wall outside claims different. This
was a cock-up on behalf of the craftsmen who sculpted
the sign, delivering it to Pod Różą instead of a place
called Pod Białą Różą.
October - November 2008
56 RESTAURANTS
Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson SAS
Hotel), tel. 012 618 88 55, www.radissonsas.com. Two
things bring us back to Milk & Co time and time again: the
first is the lunchtime buffet, a bargian at 72zł give that you get
to choose from some superb food and that you can always
bank on meeting a familiar face tucking inot his or her smoked
salmon. Secondly, the Surf & Turf extravaganza on Tuesday,
Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights is - at 120zł -
Krakow’s best kept secret. Enjoy giant praws alongside tender
juicy steaks and ribs and to hell with the calories. No wonder
reservations are essential. And no, the fish in the tanks are not
part of the buffet.Q Open 06:30 - 10:30, 11:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (23-88zł). PTAUGSW
Na Wawelu B-5, Wzgórze Wawelskie 9, tel. 012 421 19
15, www.nawawelu.pl. Kraków’s ultimate tourist trap, or just
a much under-rated café and restaurant in the best location
on earth? You decide as you see fit, but much will depend on
the service, which varies from very good to completely disin-
terested. The food is definitely overpriced for what is standard
international fare, but you can have a reasonable coffee, beer
or juice here, and let’s face it, for a location like this you will
hardly be expecting any bargains. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00.
(18-35zł). PTAXW
Nova Resto Bar
D-6, ul. Estery 18, tel. 012 421 40 11, www.nova-
restobar.pl. A vast canteen space that makes use of
wood petitions to separate tables and abstract ar t to
Restauracja
add to the visual diversions. They’re not fooling anyone,
this eyesore has the aesthetics of a school diner hall.
The foods not that much better either, the low prices
a direct reflection of the culinar y master y. On the plus
side Nova isn’t a bad shot if you want a cheap meal
that invol ves something oth er than eating a kebab
that tastes like a dead rodent. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00.
(21-51zł). TASW
Orient Ekspres C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. 012
422 66 72, w w w.orient-ekspres.krakow.pl. Love
it, just love it. The interior is a painstaking recreation
of a vintage steam train, and packed with travel trunks
and suitcases; a per fect background to practice your
Poirot poses. Th e menu bravel y at tempts to cover
ever y cuisine from Paris to Istanbul, and features some
surprises, such as fillet of duck with blackcurrant sauce,
as well as the killer desser t: Peg gy’s Cheesecake. The
garden out back is lovely. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (22-
42zł). TAEXS

Nic Nowego D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 15, tel. 012 421 61
88, www.nicnowego.com. Our bar of choice in central
Krakow, though there’s more to Nic Nowego than late
nights and blank memories. The owner Tom is a chef by
trade, and his menu goes above and beyond your usual
Padre B-3, ul. Wiślna 11, (entrance from ul. Olszewskiego),
tel. 012 422 08 66. With the coloured lamps and twinkling
treasures Padre has all the atmosphere of an underwater grotto,
only the golden oldies that get airplay detract from the mysticism.
In spite of a hidden off-Rynek location this place seems a bit of

Galicyjska
pub standards. The new menu still has Krakow’s best an open secret, its subterranean chambers packed throughout
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steaks on the list as well. The food comes complimented by for serving the best Indian food in town, a claim that falls a little
a slick, metallic interior that buzzes from dawn till closing. flat after sampling the limited dishes on offer; the curry comes
QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. (20-55zł). with lettuce here, and that should tell you all you need. QOpen
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Kraków In Your Pocket

58 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 59

Pod Gwiazdami (Under The Stars) C-3, ul. Grodzka

5, tel. 012 430 26 57, www.rthotels.com.pl. Walk down
a long corridor, past certificates and awards granted to the
head chef, before entering a smart room decorated with
cream colours and immaculate linen. The name, Under the
Stars, stems from the glass roof - a great touch if Kraków’s
smoky cellars have left you in need of a new set of lungs.
The menu is a creative blend of local and European dishes
with recommended options including the chicken breast with
mushroom sauce. The restaurant is affiliated to the Hotel
Rezydent, though the standards go way beyond the levels
expected of a mid-range hotel. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00. (15-
39zł). PTAUSW
Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14
(Pod Różą Hotel), tel. 012 424 33 81, www.hotel.com.pl.
Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under a glass-
covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits on a raised
platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with tables overlook-
ing the main floor. The menu features a veritable list of birds
and forest animals, including a rather tasty dead bambi. Prices
are high for Krakow, but then so are the standards. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (69-89zł). PTJAESW
Pod Wawelem C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29 (Royal Ho-
tel), tel. 012 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. A brilliant
addition to local dining this is just the place to visit if you’re
looking to hit your daily calorie quota in one meal. Hunks of
meat and cabbage cascade off the steel pans and wooden
boards they’re served on, while busty village wenches weave
between the bench seating serving frothing steins of lager.
There’s a real beer hall atmosphere here, topped off nicely
by a mega-decibel oompah band that do their best to turn
conversations into a shouting match. Q Open 06:30-11:00,
12:00-24:00. (15-49zł). PTAUEXS
Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13
10, www.podwinogronami.pl. There are fine restaurants
in Kraków, and then there is this place. Located in the gor-
geous Pałac Bonerowski hotel, this is a classy dining room
that makes the prefect location for romantic evenings out,
business lunches or sheer culinary pleasure-fests. October
features an exclusive and exquisite wild mushroom menu,
which like the standard menu - despite all apperances and
assumptions - is incredibly well priced. Sea bass with cour-
gettes is a cracking treat at 49zł. QOpen 17:00 - 23:00.
(29-100zł). PTAUXSW
Commie Krakow
While Kraków’s regal associations are common knowl-
edge, it’s easy to remain ignorant of Kraków’s role in
the history of communism. The most obvious point
of reference for fans of all things commie is the Nowa
Huta urban development in the outskirts (see What to
see). The city looks like a virus and is often a step too
far for all but the intrepid traveller. For those refusing to
leave the sanctity of the city centre there’s still plenty
to look for; for two years the city was home to Comrade
Lenin, and it’s still possible to sniff around a few of his
former haunts.
Lenin arrived in Kraków on June 22, 1912 on the over-
night train from Vienna, wife and mother-in-law in tow.
Working as a freelance journalist for Russian papers
like Pravda he took rented lodgings first on Krolowej
Jadwigi, behind the Salwator tram terminus, and then
on ul. Lubomirskiego 47. His favoured hangout was
Noworolski café (Rynek Główny 1), a spot he used to
entertain both wife and lover, and letters to his mother
also reveal him attending concerts at what is now the
Graffiti Centre on ul. Św. Jana. Aside from stirring trouble
and cultivating a pointy beard Lenin’s great passion was
ice skating, and he’d often be seen spinning deft moves
on an ice rink which once stood close to the Botanical
Gardens. In warmer months he’d pass time cycling in the
Wolski Forest as well as taking romantic walks through
Błonie Meadows.
Summers were spent in Poronin, just outside Zakopane,
where he would play chess and hang out with Polish
heavyweight writers like Witkiewicz and Żeromski. His
reputation as a good-for-nothing finally caught up with
him however, and on August 8th, 1914 he was arrested
as an enemy of the state and imprisoned in Nowy Targ.
Released days later he returned to Kraków to pack his
bags and fled to Switzerland. Within years the show-off
ice skater would become one of the most famous names
in world history.

Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12 (Rubinstein Hotel), tel.

012 384 00 07, www.hotelrubinstein.com. Another sign
that ulica Szeroka is breaking with its Klezmer obsessions is
the opening of the Rubinstein restaurant. Found on the ground
floor of the hotel of the same name this ultra posh effort
features boys dressed in penguin attire, stone surfaces and
immaculate cutlery arrangements that positively gleam under
the lighting. The menu is an interesting collection of European
dishes and includes some recommended slices of beef sirloin.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (18-82zł). PTAUXSW
San Sebastian Café D-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 25,
tel. 012 429 24 76, www.sansebastian.pl. Impresses
each time we visit, and definitely one of the best meals in
Kraków. A clean wooden décor and dusky lighting make it
a good venue to enjoy a glass of wine in their café section,
before moving onto their dining room to check out their
Mediterranean menu. The service is fun and flirty, and
though the portions can verge on scanty the meals are
generally highly commended - try the beef fillet in mushroom
sauce. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (21-70zł). Webber
PTAISW

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

60 RESTAURANTS
NEW
Scandale Royal B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. 012 422
13 33, www.scandale.pl. Scandale Royal successfully
skirts the line between lounge, cafe and bistro by being one
of the most stylish places to be all day and night. In more
shades of violet than we knew possible, it nonetheless
stays well-lit and inviting thanks to wall-length windows and
a massive chandelier bisecting the two floors like a fragile
firepole. Here, you can eat breakfast (and a proper one at
that!) at one end of the day and enjoy an after 22:00 menu
(featuring sushi) at the other, when everything inside from
the cushions to the clientele looks edible. In between you’ll
find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste, but don’t
miss the deliciously delicate (like Scandale itself) fish and
saffron soup - to die for! QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (19-56zł).
PTAUEXSW

Senacka C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, (Senacki Hotel), tel. 012

421 11 61, www.senacki.krakow.pl. Situated in the hotel
of the same name this restaurant comes complete with
chandeliers and timber-beamed ceilings, while the kitchen
staff demonstrate an unflagging commitment to excellence.
The menu alternates between Polish and international stan-
dards, and never fails. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-60zł).
PTAUSW

Sphinx C-3, Rynek Główny 26, tel. 012 423 11 40,

www.sphinx.pl. Two years after a half-witted chef set fire
to the kitchen - and indeed the rest of the building - Sphinx’s
original Kraków venture has finally re-opened. It’s exactly the
same as before with agreeably large portions of burgers and
kebabs served by boys dressed as penguins inside interiors
filled with glowing lamps and plastic trees. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00. (18-41zł). PTAXSW

Sphinx J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel.

012 433 03 54, www.sphinx.pl. The Sphinx chain have
proved bullet proof to change and have cornered the Polish
budget dinner experience since their early beginnings. This
is middle eastern food Polski style, with the chefs piece de
resistance being the pitchfork full of cabbage that accom-
panies each meal. The menu does little to challenge the
culinary imagination and is no more than a never ending list
of shoarmas, burgers and pizzas, but that does little to stop
the stampede of custom. A committed fan base consisting
of late teens and early twenties fight over seats inside dark
interiors that come illuminated with Arabic lanterns dangling
from artificial trees. If you’re running low on banknotes you
could do a lot worse than taking dinner here. QOpen 10:00 -
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. (19-48zł). PTAUGSW

Stary Hotel Restaurant C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary

Hotel), tel. 012 384 08 06, www.stary.hotel.com.pl.
Though they should replace the missing letter from the sign
outside, all sins are forgiven once you sit down to eat here.
Fine Modern European cuisine with a Polish twist is eaten by
high-flyers and top business people who have been regulars
for years. Try the revelation that is the rabbit saddle with fresh
spinach, or the unusual herbal ice creams. A gem. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (65-79zł). PTAUXW

Szara (Grey) C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 421 66

69, www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant which
seems to draw most tourists at least once during their stay.
Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere of complete
elegance make it a great venue for your special ‘last night
meal’, and the food rarely disappoints. Choose from dishes
like salmon in Dutch sauce in what has come to be known
as one of the hotspots of Kraków’s culinary scene. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (37-69zł). PTAUSW

Kraków In Your Pocket

62 RESTAURANTS
Jazzy Sunday Lunch at
Togetherness is invited. Brunch at
The Olive Restaurant gives you time
for the people that really matter.
And it starts every Sunday from
noon till five at 125 PLN per person
including beverage, so you can turn
a Sheraton brunch into a family
tradition. Because you don’t just stay
here. You belong.
For reservation and further
information, please call Sheraton
Krakow Hotel, ul. Powisle 7,
31-101 Kraków tel. 012 662 1000,
sheraton.com/krakow
Kraków In Your Pocket
Szara Kazimierz E-6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. 012 429 12
19, www.szarakazimierz.pl. Open a year or so now this
place is well on course for ‘Kraków legend’ status. What
makes it so special is not the location on Szeroka, nor the
swift and bubbly staff, but the food: nowhere in the city
can you eat so well for so little. This is top cuisine - try the
daily specials chalked up on the blackborad, such as lamb
with gratinated potatoes - yet it comes in at almost fast
food prices. Simple, cheap and very cheerful. All Krakow
should be like this. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (27-56zł).
PTASW
Szoberowska C-3, Mały Rynek 6, tel. 012 421 08 83,
www.szoberowska.pl. A pleasant ochre-coloured restau-
rant filled with rural touches, wooden decoys and cast-iron
extras, dining here isn’t unlike setting foot inside a Tuscan
farmhouse; however changes, apparently, are in the works.
During late October, this establishment will undergo major
renovations yet inexplicably stay open. The new name and
menu are not known yet; your guess is as good as ours, but
they invite you to give it a shot. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (18-
45zł). PTABXSW
Teresita ul. Schweitzera 3 (Podgórze), tel. 012 657
94 77 ext. 204, www.teresita.pl. Gaudy colours and
tacky extras like appalling artwork and a dusty mirror ball
decorate the interior of Kraków’s only gypsy restaurant.
Aesthetic shortcomings are glossed over by good cooking
and heaps of spicy grill food. Order a couple bottles of wine
and let the party begin. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (20-45zł).
PTAUEXS
The Olive A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel),
tel. 012 662 16 80, www.sheraton.com/krakow. Top
class Mediterranean dishes served inside the imperial en-
virons of the Sheraton. The glass roof makes it possible to
dine under the stars while the foliage dotted around adds to
the al fresco atmosphere. The best ingredients money can
buy are complemented by graceful service and some superb
live piano. Fine dining at its best. Q Open 06:30 -10:30,
12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 -
16:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00,
18:00 - 22:30. (47-89zł). PTAUEXW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. 012 431
03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A sensory delight with
crimson flourishes, feathery boas and gilt picture frames pro-
viding an air of Parisien decadence. A private members area
and a pair of black-suited door police add an air of exclusivity
while the live jazz music played in the background is worth the
visit alone. The menu is high-end European, and brought to
you by a busy team of waitresses dressing in evening wear.
QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (25-78zł). PAEX
Wentzl C-3, Rynek Główny 19 (Wentzl Hotel), tel. 012
429 57 12, www.wentzl.pl. A historic restaurant replete
with oil paintings and timber ceilings. Gourmet choices such
as foie gras are every bit the masterpiece you expect inside
this main square stalwart. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (57-66zł).
PTAXSW
The day’s not over yet -
Nightlife on
page 84
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. 012 430 04 18, www.
aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a cream and
modern look. This is where the local sophisticates have been
seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian cuisine prepared
by the imported chef. Authenticity is topped off by the ingredi-
ents, most of which come shipped direct from Italy. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł). PTAUBSW
Amarone C-2, ul. Floriańska 14 (Pod Różą Hotel), tel.
012 424 33 81, www.hotel.com.pl. This is upmarket Ital-
ian food served to an increasingly discerning audience, all of
whom appear to know exactly what they are ordering and how
it should be cooked. Pressure is on then, but the Amarone
boys come through every time. This is a superb restaurant,
with a setting to match - under a giant glass covered skylight.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-65zł). PTAESW
Antonio Caffé D-7, Pl. Wolnica 13, tel. 012 430 59
99, www.antoniocaffe.pl. A trendy café bar with Ferrari
red squeaky seats, glistening floor tiles and black plastic
tables. White walls feature black and white pics of femme
fatales caught mid-pout, and the menu has a decent rundown
of Italian snacks. This place is a delight, and evidence that
Kazimierz is fast leaving behind its reputation for grotty bars
filled with unemployed actors. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (16-
100zł). AUXS
Any Time Sandwich & Pizza Bar D-6, ul. Estery 16,
tel. 012 432 30 70, www.anytime.com.pl/restauracja.
The food here is cheap, and you get what you pay for; nothing
special budget priced pizzas, toasts and pork chops. The
interior is no more than a slap-dash room with a cramped
trattoria ambiance, views of Pl. Nowy and chatty, friendly
staff who will make you feel like a regular from the moment
you enter. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.
(14-35zł). ASW
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. 012 421 25
67, www.aquaevino.pl. The most exciting development
Kraków’s foodie scene has witnessed for quite some time.
Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes decorated in
a minimalist style with cream and black colour combina-
tions, and an atmosphere redolent of downtown Milan. Half
restaurant, half lounge bar, the beautifully presented dishes
come cooked up by house chef Francesco. Already earning
rave reviews from all corners, this merits a place on any
‘must visit’ list you may be keeping. QOpen 12:00 - 22:45.
(25-56zł). PTAXS
Avanti Orangery B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012
430 07 21, www.avanti.krakow.pl. It is the simple
dishes that make or break an Italian restaurant, such
RESTAURANTS 63
as the timeless classic that is spaghetti aglio e pep-
peroncino. This pass passes with flying colours, which
is probably why it gets so packed. Add in a desser t to
die for: the tor tino di cioccolata, the blissful absence
of pi z zas, an d you h ave a winn er. G et th ere n ow.
Q Open 13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. (22-53zł).
PTAUXSW
Avanti Ristorante B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012 430
07 70, www.avanti.krakow.pl. Gilt mirrors, linen table-
cloths, lots of cooling, off-white colours and a Romanesque
theme add bags of class to this underground Italian restaurant
just west of the old town. Highly recommended by those
reportedly in the know, the menu includes a handsome
range of pasta, fish and other classic Italian dishes. The
ground floor orangerie is also worth checking out. QOpen
15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (20-48zł).
PTABXSW
Hard Rock
Between Hard
Rock and a
Holy Place C-3,
Pl. Mariacki 9,
tel. 012 429
11 55, w w w.
hardrockcaf e.
c o m . O G l o r y,
th e Hard Ro ck
Ca fe h a s f inall y
re cognize d this
ci t y’s imp or tan t
con tribu ti ons to
rock music (as a
r e f u ge fo r c a s t
ou t expa t ro ck
a c ts) an d c om e
to Kraków. Af ter
snatching some hallowed ground on Pl. Mariacki,
the kitschy American franchise has opened directl y
across from one of the ci ty’s holiest si tes, as if to
prove without a doubt that indeed nothing is sacred
anymore (capi talism will see to that). Though the
restaurant isn’t qui te read y to rake in cash, man-
agement has made sure the merchandise shop is
open and exploi ting that prime R ynek retail space.
So while you can’t yet get your face around one
of their enormous burgers, you can add the HRC
Kraków t-shir t to your collection (it’s what you came
for any way, right). That’s one top business brain in
action. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00.
October - November 2008
64 RESTAURANTS
Carlito C-2, ul. Floriańska 28, tel. 012 429 19 12, www.
restauracjacarlito.pl. Even amongst all the neon kebab signs
and stalls selling Made in China fluffy dragons Carlito still manages
to stick out like a sore thumb. This space is positively huge, its
windows staring right onto the increasingly tacky Floriańska. Dolled
up to look like a traditional trattoria this tourist magnet serves the
full galaxy of Italian dishes, with particular attention paid to pizza.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16-57zł). PTAXSW
Cherubino C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 15, tel. 012 429 41 47,
www.cherubino.pl. Antique carriages and bluish lights fill this
large venue, while the chef cooks simple recipes well. Choose
between standard Polish and Tuscan dishes. QOpen 14:00 -
23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:30. (18-58zł). TJAIS
Corleone C-4, ul. Poselska 19, tel. 012 429 51 26,
www.corleone.krakow.pl. Yellowing vaulted walls cluttered
with pictures and wine bottles cast a warm glow on this effort,
making it a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of
the tourist nearby tourist trail. The menu waltzes through the
best of Italian cooking, with the lamb cutlets winning particular
praise from this reviewer. Italian cuisine has exported effort-
lessly to Kraków, and this is one of the highlights. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (20-58zł). TAEXSW
Da Pietro C-3, Rynek Główny 17, tel. 012 422 32 79,
www.dapietro.com.pl. A dark network of rooms decorated
with black and white pictures of Rome’s Colloseum, and
tables laid with candles and silverware await you inside this
cellar restaurant. Portions are enormous, and the spaghetti
comes heaped with garlic, capers, olives and anchovies,
and accompanied by a tray of bread and olive oil. QOpen
12:30 - 23:45. (16-67zł). PTAXSW
Del Papa C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 6, tel. 012 421 83 43, www.
delpapa.pl. A smart new effort that specializes in, but is not
limited, to pizza and pasta. It’s a young trendy venue and a great
environment for an informal meal. We can recommend the shrimps.
QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (30-59zł). PTAEBXS
Fabryka Pizzy (Pizza Factory) E-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel.
012 433 80 80, www.fabrykapizzy.pl. Allegedly ranked
as Kraków’s best pizzeria, though recent visits suggest it’s
trading on past reputation. The environment is pleasant
enough, with brick ceilings, wooden furnishings and design
touches like bottled herbs creating a warming glow, though
the pizza fails to live up to the snappy names found on the
menu; Hog on Holiday (ham and pineapple) and Hard Times
(no toppings). No better than the standard pizza offerings
found lining the streets of the city. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (14-30zł). TAXS
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 429 51
41, www.ilcalzone.pl. The cornerstones of Italian cooking
served inside an interior redolent of a basic neighbourhood
trattoria. The pizza is good, but if you want to go beyond that
then the grilled sirloin comes recommended, while the panna
cotta makes for a good conclusion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (19-42zł). PTAUXSW
La Famigilia C-3, ul. Bracka 6, tel. 012 433 97 70. The
sinking feeling starts the moment you enter. Tablecloths bare
the scars of previous diners while the rustic decorations look
like liable to fall apart at the slightest touch from a speculative
klepto. It’s a sloppy effort from start to finish with scant regard
for attention to detail; staff should only be allowed pierced
heads if they work in a hot dog van or hostel. The food rounds
off this disaster nicely; measly portions of gristly meat, which on
our visit came accompanied by an eyelash. Turkish prisons are
better. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-49zł). PTAXS
Kraków In Your Pocket
RESTAURANTS 65
La Strada C-6, ul. Stradomska 13, tel. 012 431 12 72,
www.lastrada.pl. Tiled floors and shelves crowded with
ceramics provide an informal, trattoria-style atmosphere
to this affordable restaurant. By no means a must visit, but
a decent enough option if you need to get out of the rain.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł).
PTAXSW
Leonardo D-3, ul. Szpitalna 20-22, tel. 012 429 68
50, www.leonardo.com.pl. A series of dining rooms,
including one filled with Da Vinchi’s scientific sketches, and
another crammed with hams hanging from the ceiling and
jars of pickles; evoking a provincial kitchen atmosphere. Us-
ing hand-picked ingredients the kitchen staff create some
of the best meals in the region, including a superb deer
served in juniper and gin. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (19-119zł).
PTAUXSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. 012 430
04 92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find Krakow’s best
pizza on a street that’s exploded into life of late. The
vast range of pizzas are dispatched from a traditional
wood fired oven and the choice of numerous other Italian
standards prove Mamma Mia is more than a one trick
pony. The interior - clever lighting and exposed bricks
- makes for a cool backdrop for casual dining, and their
growing army of regulars are testament to Mamma Mia’s
growing reputation. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (14-40zł).
PTAUGSW
Nuova Cosa Nostra E-6, ul. Dajwór 25, tel. 012
429 00 97, www.cosanostra.krakow.pl. Naming a
restaurant in honour of a crime syndicate responsible
for common terror seems a little odd. Still the mafia are
always a good gimmick, and it’s certainly a better idea than
launching a restaurant with an Idi Amin theme. Located on
a less travelled corner of Kazimierz this restaurant features
exposed brick walls, rough plastering and an informal trat-
toria ambience perfect for planning the messy demise of
sworn enemies. On the menu everything from simple pizzas
to more complicated main courses with wine suggestions
added thoughtfully below. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15-
150zł). TAUXSW
Pepe Rosso E-6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. 012 431 08 75, www.
peperosso.pl. Two floors to this restaurant - upstairs it’s a
crisp whitewashed dining room, and one closed to those with
a smoking habit. Instead smokers find themselves directed
downstairs, into a charming stone cellar that would be even
better if they switched some music on. Everything on the
menu looks good, and you won’t be disappointed by the beef
fillet; cooked exactly to your orders. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(18-44zł). PTAXSW
Picolo D-6, ul. Krakowska 7, tel. 012 292 00 76, www.
pizzeriapicolo.pl. A simple whitewashed room cheered up
by the addition of mandarin coloured blocks hanging from
walls and ceilings, as well as a smattering of artwork and
greenery. Diners don’t come here for the visuals, rather
excellent pizza that includes exotic options like the Ramzes
and the Babilon (which comes with the alarming addition of
eggs and gherkins on top). Stick to the Italian classics like the
Capriciossa and you can’t go wrong. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(15-25zł) XS
Pizzeria Banolli B-2, ul. Karmelicka 22, tel. 012 431
20 00, www.banolli.pl. Local takeaway junkies profess
Banolli to be the best dial-up pizza in town, and we’ve yet to
find a reason to disagree. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. (20-36zł). PTYABXSW
October - November 2008
66 RESTAURANTS
Piz zeria Tr zy Papr yczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17,
tel. 012 292 55 32, w w w.trzypapryczki.krakow.
pl. This new venture wins our gold gong for Kraków’s
best pizza, a sentiment shared by pretty much anyone
whose come into contact with this place. Either do your
dining in their knockout back garden, or take to a dusk y
lit dining room complete with log fire and wall frescoes.
Th e piz za h ere can get seriousl y experimental wi th
choices including roast turkey, almonds and avocado,
and the chef also extends his reper toire to cover nu-
SJTUPSBOUF
QJ[[FSJB
DBGGF merous other I talian dishes. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00.
(16-40zł). TAS

Pod Amorem (Under Cupid) C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 7,

tel. 012 802 94 76. Aside from the obscenely dangerous
step that leads to the toilet this is a delightful find special-
izing in pizza that comes cooked in front of your eyes. Timber
beams and candles recreate the atmosphere of a country
kitchen while budget prices keep it brimming with giggling
teenage girls and first daters. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-
23zł). S

Portofino E-6, ul. Wąska 2, tel. 012 431 05 37, www.

portofino.pl. Italian food at a decent price served (in
season) on a fine little terrace in Kazimierz. With no pizzas
clogging up the menu you can expect good pasta and some
wonderfully tossed salads: the caprese, made with good
quality mozzarella and freshly crushed basil was a delight.
Inside it’s all round tables and things get a bit more formal.
One gripe is the service, not always prompt when the place
is busy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00.
(28-60zł). TAS

Santo Stefano B-2, Pl. Szczepański 2, tel. 012 422

61 54, www.santostefano.pl. This spot has been kit-
ted out to look like an Italian piazza, and comes complete
with cobbled floors, fountain and moped propped up in
the middle; even the walls have been painted to resemble
Latin storefronts. The menu is full of surprises, not least
5 3" % * 5 * 0/ " - thanks to the inclusion of dishes - bigos and pierogi to name
a couple of the intruders. The Tuscan t-bone is particu-
* 5" - * " / larly good value at 59zl. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (17-59zł).
PTAEXSW
$6*4*/& Studnia Życzeń D-6, Pl. Nowy 6, tel. 012 429 53 37.
Superior Italian served in a rather bare setting, where creaking
wooden floors are the order of the day. The food is better
than the Kraków average Italian, with the gnocchi the pick
01&/
"*3 of the lunchtime menu. With good views of the busy if less
than salubrious square the tables by the open windows are
4 6 . . & 3
( " 3 %& / rarely free: reserve if you want one. QOpen 09.00 - 24.00.
(12-30zł). TAXS

Trattoria Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1

(Bonerowski Palace Hotel), tel. 012 374 13 10,
" *3  $ 0 / % * 5 *0/ * / ( www.podwinogronami.pl. Dine under scrubbed vaulted
ceilings in what is sure to become known as some of
the best Italian food in the city. Upmarket, without being
,SBLÌX
VM
4UBSPXJvMOB
" over-the-top in style and formality, this place is pleas-
1BΠBD
1V H FU ÌX ing enough on the eye. Head chef Lorenzo has been
U F M
  
  

 imported from Italy, and you can trust him to give you
your moneys worth. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. (16-49zł).
XXX JMD BM[ P O F QM PTAUEXSW

)0 6 3 4
0 '
0 1& 3 "5* 0/
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Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. Św. Anny 7, tel. 012 422
51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. Warm glowing colours
and a good clutter of plants and ceramics generate plenty
of atmosphere, while the chef does the rest. Pretty good,
both in quality and price. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (32-61zł).
PTAXS

Kraków In Your Pocket

68 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 69

Wooden architecture of Małopolska Quick Eats

Chimera Salad Bar B-3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. 012
423 21 78, www.chimera.com.pl. Tasty Polish salads
(a little heavier on the mayonnaise than in the west) in a
cavernous self-service bar. Also serves meaty snacks.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. (12-28zł).
TAIGSW

KFC D-2, ul. Pawia 5, (Galeria Krakowska), tel. 0

660 70 96 65, www.kfc.pl. Also at ul. Kalwaryjska
17 and ul. Podgórska 34. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (11-20zł). PAUGSW

Lanczowisko B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. 012 628

TThe wa w rm Meditterrraanneean an clilima
mate te 54 96. A few months ago this venue touted an interior
that looked like something out of Indian Jones: jeeps
of Itataly lyy aand
nd the com ompl
p ette ttaape
pl pest stry
ry Małopolska – the region in which Kraków finds itself – is
something of a tourist goldmine, and diligent tourists
stacked with crates of dynamite and heaps of adventur-
ers goodies. Its been all change and this new venture
andd va
an vari riet
etyy off tas
aste
tes of
of Itatali
alilian
aann find themselves faced with a stonking choice of eight
sites that make it onto the UNESCO World Heritage
comes decked out in a clean, simple style with a barrage
of salads, pancakes and pastas and all sorts served
ccuuiissine
inne cacaann bee fou
o ndd ins
nsiidde oouur List. Many won’t require an introduction – we’ve all
heard of Auschwitz and Wieliczka, after all. What you
from behind a canteen. This is a budget heaven, with
a staggering one hundred dishes to peruse. QOpen
Trattoria probably haven’t heard of is the wooden architecture
Małopolska was once famous for – there’s some 237
08:00 - 22:00. PXS

Soprano sites of interest and since 2003 four have made it

onto UNESCOs ‘must see’ list. Leading the charge is
McDonald’s D-2, ul. Pawia 5, (Galeria Krakowska),
tel. 012 628 74 10, www.mcdonalds.pl. Also on ul.
the Church of St. Michael the Archangel’s in Dębno, a Floriańska 55, C-2. QOpen 07:00 - 22:30. (12-17zł).
pointed little marvel that dates from the 15th century. PTAGSW
Built without the use of a single nail this beauty has
avoided destruction all this time proof, according to the Pigoniówka B-2, ul. Garbarska 7a (courtyard), tel.
locals, of God’s protection. The perfectly preserved in- 012 422 67 66. One of the cheapest restaurants in
teriors are entered from the west side, and visitors can Kraków with soups from 2-4zł and main courses pegged
admire polychrome wall paintings, wooden carvings and between 5-15zł. A decent spot if you’ve hit rock bottom.
a triptych dating from the 16th century. The easiest way QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UGS
to visit is by way of Nowy Targ. Next up there’s a church
of the same name, this one found in Binarowa. Dating Pod Osłoną Nieba (Under the cover of the
from around 1500 this is the second oldest church Heavens) C-4, ul. Grodzka 26, tel. 012 422 52 27,
in the region and points of interest include a Gothic www.kebabgrodzka.pl. Commonly known as the best
sculpture of the Virgin Mary, a 17th century Lent curtain kebab in Kraków and as such you’ll find an ever present
and a bell tower that is dated to 1522. Elsewhere hit line queuing by the outside hatch. Civilized sorts will
Lipnica Muranowa to visit the Church of St. Leonard. choose to do their dining inside, in which case there’s two
Local legend claims this steep-roofed structure was counters to choose from - one serving kebabs, the other
built in 1203, though this is a claim that’s discounted dishing out set meals that consist of a strip of meat and
by most historians who date its construction to the late a pile of cabbage. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
15th century. Notable for not having a tower this church 09:00 - 05:00. (16-42zł). TABXSW
features 16th century paintings adorning the ceiling,
and a relief of the Virgin Mary that was originally cast U Zalipianek B-3, ul. Szewska 24, tel. 012 422
in the 14th century. Finally there’s the church of Phillip 29 50. The bright, Polish floral patterns are juxtaposed
and Jacob in Sękowa. Built in 1520 using larch wood against the old-timers occupying the seats. More than
this house of worship is notable for its dogged survival. likely most of the conversations revolve around crappy
In 1915 it found itself right on the frontline and suffered pensions and the good ‘ol days when everybody had
horrendous damage both inside and out. The 1990s a job. Thus the clients cheerfully pay 1zł for the coat
saw a huge program of restoration undertaken, and check and another 1zł for the toilet. Menu consists of
today the church is back to its best, complete with a all the Polish faves. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (10-20zł).
17th century altar and a stone font used for baptisms PTAXS
that goes back to the 16th century. As you may have
aaiir-
r-cco
cond
cond
ndit
itiio
it ionneed
ed bbaaseeme
ment
entts guessed, the bad news is that all four aren’t the easiest
to incorporate on a flying visit from Kraków, and it’s
most certainly a trail that favours drivers with a good
Ul.. Św
Ul w. AnAnny
nnyy 7 map and a fearless attitude regarding the roads of
3311-0
-0008
08 Kra rakó
ków
w Poland. Those wishing to take the easy way out can Communist Poland - check out
view wooden architecture within Kraków’s city limits
Tel. 0012
Te 1122 4422
222 51 955 by paying a visit to St. Margaret’s Chapel in the Sal- the only state-planned city
wator district (G-3, ul. Świętej Bronisławy). Completed
www.trattoriasoprano.pl in 1690 this octagonal chapel is the best example of outside of the Soviet Union on
timber architecture to be found in the city, as well as a
Open:10:00-24:00 delightfully offbeat sight all too often ignored. page 122

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

70 RESTAURANTS
Japanese
Edo Sushi D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 3, tel. 012 422 24 24,
www.edosushi.pl. Kraków’s best sushi inside a calm envi-
ronment filled with taped bird songs and rice-paper panels.
The menu is huge, the raw fish excellent, and the prices a
fraction of what they should be. Check out the private room; a
traditional shoes off experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (29-54zł). PAUXSW
Horai D-7, Pl. Wolnica 9, tel. 012 430 03 58, www.
horairestaurant.pl. Plac Wolnica is a no-mans land in terms
of Kraków dining, but that stands to change with the unveiling
of Horai. Educating the natives in the art of Oriental cooking
expect a menu that covers the high points of Japanese, Thai
and Chinese cooking. Choose from Cantonese grill dishes, Thai
curries or their extensive choice of sushi sets. Inside you have
your typically attractive Asian interior, with rice-paper panels
and complicated origami arrangements hanging from the ceil-
ing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-140zł). PTAXSW
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. 012 267 27 03
ext.210, www.manggha.krakow.pl. A small Japanese
bubble inside the huge Manggha centre, what this place
lacks in atmosphere it makes up for with decent sushi, al-
beit served in schoolboy sizes. The menu is concise, to say
the least. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (26-40zł).
PAUSW
Miyako Sushi D-1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.
012 628 72 52, www.miyakosushi.pl. There’s something
very strange going on here. If you’ve eaten in Miyako’s flagship
location in the Rynek you’ll possibly still have trouble getting to
sleep at night. So it’s a bit of a surprise to find that their mall
venture is absolutely cracking. There is of course the standard
range of sushi to go for, but the real reason to visit are the sashimi
sets. An investment of 55 zloty buys you a bargain 25 cuts of raw
fish, though the pride of place comes reserved for the gyututaki
- strips of raw beef marinated in vinegar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. (30-55zł). PTAUXSW
Miyako Sushi C-3, Rynek Główny 19, tel. 012 429 52
99, www.miyakosushi.pl. A stark clinically appointed space
that uses the same black seats you had at school with a
smattering of bamboo plants and steel frame lamps. It looks
nasty, frankly, and the food isn’t much better with the use of
fish that is far from fresh out of the water. Not the cheapest
of mistakes you’ll ever make, either. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(20-71zł). TABSW
Sushi Bar Sakana C-2, ul. Świętego Jana 8, tel. 012
429 30 86, www.sakana.pl. Sushi authorities who’ve found
themselves journeying around Poland will already be familiar
with the Sakana brand. With outlets in Poznań, Wrocław and
Kraków In Your Pocket
Warsaw, opening in Kraków was always the next step, and
the team at Sakana have recreated exactly what you’ll find
in their sister restaurants; excellent fresh sushi served up in
a bamboo clad interior decorated sparingly with rice paper
panels and lanterns. Enjoy a cleansing miso soup, or opt
for expertly prepared sets of Californian maki made by staff
clearly schooled in the delicate art of Japanese culinary mas-
tery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł).
PTAUGSW
Youmiko Sushi Bar B-2, ul. Szczepańska 7, tel. 012
421 26 99, www.youmiko-sushi.pl. Kraków’s newest sushi
stop, and already punching for the title of Kraków’s best.
Ornamented with shining red discs on the pristine walls this
goes beyond the standard oriental décor, and there’s abso-
lutely no faulting the sushi - prepared in front of your eyes
by experts. Both venue and menu are tiny, serving to prove
that theory about small packages. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00.
(25-63zł). AGSW
Jewish
Alef C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 5 (Alef Hotel), tel. 012 424
31 31, www.alef.pl. The Alef restaurant have shifted
from their traditional Kazimierz base, opening instead on
the ground floor of their second venture on Agnieszki - not
necessarily a bad thing considering the knackered look the
old venue was starting to assume. This one is less claustro-
phobic, the greenish dining room decorated with the requisite
gramophones and heirlooms, as well as the usual klezmer
band stalking between tables. The food is standard, noth-
ing better than anything else you’d find in Kraków. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. (14-49zł). PASW
Ariel E-6, ul. Szeroka 17-18, tel. 012 421 79 20, www.
ariel-krakow.pl. You’ll hear mixed reports emanating from
Ariel, and while our turkey steak was little better than disap-
pointing we’ve met more than a number of people extolling
the virtues of Ariel’s varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding
to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live music is a popular
draw, though you may appreciate it less when you learn you
are being charged to listen to it. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
(14-48zł). PAEXSW
Arka Noego E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. 012 429 15 28,
www.arka-noego.pl. Big portions, good food and low
prices. Many mains are served family-style, and the drinks
list runs from Israeli wine to kosher beer and vodka. Intrigu-
ingly Noah’s Ark boasts that you can hear live music every
day from ‘almost at 20:30.’ Expect a compulsory surcharge
of 20zł for the pleasure of listening. QOpen 10:30 - 24:00.
(30-60zł). TAES
Dawno temu na Kazimierzu (Long ago in Kaz-
imierz) E-6, ul. Szeroka 1, tel. 012 421 21 17. From
the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row of
early century traders shops and is decorated with awnings
relating to the areas Jewish heritage. Things are no less
colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing machines
and carpenters work surfaces adorning the interiors. A great
attempt at capturing the Kazimierz spirit, and a must visit
for those tracing the districts past. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(18-34zł). AUES
Eden E-6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. 012 430 65 65, www.
hoteleden.pl. One of the few places to offer kosher food
in Krakow, though if you want to order anything other than
breakfast (07:00 - 10:00) diners are required to phone in
advance, select the meal of their choice and then pay with
either credit card or Euro. Q Open 07:00 - 10:00, 12:00
- 21:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 21:00. (15-30zł).
TAUGSW
Klezmer Hois E-6, ul. Szeroka 6, tel. 012 411 12 45,
www.klezmer.pl. Late 19th century décor and a jumble of
rugs and paintings; the interior of Klezmer Hois follows the
Kazimierz code for interior design but it’s the strong menu
that keeps the staff busy and the restaurant packed. We rec-
ommend the chicken in honey and ginger. Each night stirring
music recitals keep the crowds amused and the wine flowing.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (17-46zł). AEXS
Latin American
Buena Vista D/E-6, ul. Józefa 26, tel. 0 668 03 50
00, www.buenavista.krakow.pl. The Kazimierz district
has long been known for its spread of bars, but finding
a meal there has traditionally meant fitting yourself into
RESTAURANTS 71
an antique chair while fending off the attention of a loom-
ing kelzmer band. Here’s something different, a Cuban
eatery situated right in the heart of Kraków’s bar land.
The menu arrives presented in newspaper format with a
range of dishes previously unseen in the city; duck breast
in rum, tuna in criolla sauce. Checkered floor patterns,
Latin sounds and photos of battered Cadillac’s recall the
haunts of Hemingway, while the bar area to the right of
the entrance represents the perfect after-spot to retire
to, daquiri in hand. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (21-40zł).
PTAEBXSW
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. 012 422 22 77,
www.manzana.com.pl. The design here is brilliant, with
dark glossy colours and a chic Latin ambience. They’ve
clearly spent a lot of money on this place, and you can’t help
but think it was money squandered. The food here is hit and
very miss - our chili was great, but the burrito one of the worst
culinary experiences you’ll have. And it’s not really that sur-
prising; the open kitchen reveals a team of adolescent chefs
who look like they were recruited from the football terraces
of Cardiff. We’ve been promised that changes are afoot to
improve things, so we’ll be back soon to see if a leopard can
change its spots. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00.
(32-69zł). YAGSW
Pimiento E-6, ul. Józefa 26, tel. 012 421 25 02,
www.pimiento.pl. There’s no way to hide it, behind the
gloss and the sheen this place is little more than a rip-
off. That the waitresses can’t even be bothered to smile
says a lot, that a 75zł steak comes with no condiments
- not even a sauce - says even more. If you’re paying
premium prices, premium quality should be expected. No
chance of that here. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (35-75zł).
PTAXSW
Open: Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00
Sun: 13:00-22:00
Sushi Bar SAKANA
ul. Sławkowska 5-7, 31-016 Kraków
(entry from ul. Św. Jana)
tel. 012 429 30 86
www.sakana.pl
Catering: 012 422 21 23
012 422 21 24
October - November 2008
72 RESTAURANTS
Mediterranean
Bistro Marago B-3, ul. Podwale 2, tel. 012 429 40 06,
www.maragobistro.com. Bright and breezy hoch-basement
bistro on Podwale, across the road from Planty Park. The
menu is vaguely Mediterranean, though it has a few Polish
touches (such as six types of pierogi), and some of the wines
come from as far away as Chile. Good staff and a friendly vibe
is given off by the local after work crowd that seems to use
the place as a dining room. Well worth your time. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00. (10-23zł). EBXSW
Il Fresco H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Hotel), tel. 012
431 18 58, www.ilfresco.krakow.pl. The showpiece res-
taurant of the Hotel Niebieski, though worth exploration even
if you’re not lodging upstairs. Find inventive Mediterranean
dishes artistically presented, and served in a background
that frequently resounds to the sound of live music. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (25-59zł). PTAUGSW
Tesoro Del Mar D-6, ul Józefa 6, tel. 012 430 60 13, www.
restauracja.tesorodelmar.pl. A swanky Mediterranean effort
half-submerged below street level. Set inside a series of vaulted
rooms the design is simply but classy, with a look that limits itself
to framed pictures set on whitewashed walls. Wrapping it off is
a menu of Mediterranean options, including black tiger shrimps,
msselus, and steak served with caramelized carrots. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (30-86zł). AXSW
Mexican
Bagelmama D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 012 431 19 42,
www.bagelmama.com. Kazimierz’ link with the western
world comes in the form of Bagelmama. Poland’s best bagels
Kraków In Your Pocket
are one reason for visiting, the addition of a concise but
competent Tex Mex menu is another. Choose from burritos,
chili and soup of the day, while the proprietor Nava trades
stories with the customers from behind an open kitchen.
The chances are that the few tables will already be taken so
either exercise the patience that made you famous, or get
your goodies bagged up to take-away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. (12-15zł). GS
Taco Mexicano Cuatro Elementos C-3, Rynek
Główny 19, tel. 012 429 52 99, www.cuatroelementos.
pl. You put your life in your hands when eating ethnic food
in Kraków, but Taco Mexicano is certainly acceptable, if
not inspirational. The stone cellar interiors are neat and
tastefully decorated with cacti while sad Mexican ballads
generate an air of romance - we had our heart melted by
a Bambi-eyed waitress. We opted for the Taco Chiuhahua,
which came with the intriguing addition of the chefs ‘secret
sauce’. Alas, this proved to be a tame mushroom affair, while
the accompanying tortilla was clearly not fresh. Thank God
for the jalapeno sauce; it comes with the bite of a feral ani-
mal and leaves your guts shooting fireworks - exactly what
we like. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00.
(22-40zł). PTAXS
Taco Mexicano El Pueblo C-4, ul. Poselska 20, tel.
012 421 54 41, www.elpueblo.pl. Sub-standard Mexican
offerings that come buried under cabbage served by careless
staff clearly a long way from being at the top of their trade.
This place preys on unsuspecting tourists and you’ll find
the benches often heaving with customers who know no
better: ie locals and travellers reading inferior guidebooks.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (20-37zł).
PTAXS
RESTAURANTS 73
Polish
Awiw E-6, ul. Szeroka 13, tel. 0 508 11 95 74, www.
awiw.pl. Beetroot soup never tasted so good as it does at
Awiw, accompanied with tasty croquette potatoes. Twenty
different kinds of pierogi are also on hand for those tired of
potato and cheese standbys. Given Szeroka’s not unfounded
reputation as a growing tourist trap you could do worse than
at this place, where though overall the food does not win
prizes for originality it will not cost you a fortune either. Though
tables out front are permanently occupied, there are more
in the patio at the back. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (25-50zł).
TABXSW
Bar Grodzki C-4, ul. Grodzka 47, tel. 012 422 68 07,
www.grodzkibar.zaprasza.net. Experience the days of
commie Poland in this delicious blast from the past. Find
everyone from tramps to war veterans tucking into the
cheapest food you’re ever liable to stumble on. Dine on
boiling hot plates of traditional Polish goo and cabbage
amid an interior reminiscent of a young offenders unit.
Downstairs take your food in a typically atmospheric Kra-
kowian cellar. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
(8-15zł). GS
Bohema B-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. 012 430 26 83, www.
bohema.cracow.pl. Great pierogi are served in this bizarre
little Polish place, where two oversized paintings of medieval
knights greet you on entrance. Take the raised table and feat
on both the pierogi and the beetroot soup, and unexpected
delight served with great ravioli. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(12-40zł). PTAX
Brzozowy Gaj J-3, ul. Brzozowa 18, tel. 012 292 33 17,
www.brzozowygaj.pl. Decorated in the log-cutters style this nˆ‘˜Œ‘ˆê•˜–—Œ†êŒ‘—ˆ•Œ’•–ê
venue is a preview shot of Zakopane life - here it’s all chunky
tables and ceramic trinkets bought from the dodgy tourist ’‰ê†’˜‘—•œê†’——„Šˆ–­ê
stalls you’d usually avoid. The menu is meat heavy, and you
can expect anything that ever lived on a farm to be hacked up {•„‡Œ—Œ’‘„êê
and presented before you.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł).
PTAIEXS w’Œ–‹ê†˜Œ–Œ‘ˆ­
C.K. Browar (H.M. Brewery) B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7,
tel. 012 429 25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. A huge {„–—ˆê…„Žˆ‡ê…•ˆ„‡±ê“•ˆ“„•ˆ‡êê
and rowdy cellar complex with a restaurant, bar and disco in
three seperate sections. The food is pretty tasty, well priced …œê—•„‡Œ—Œ’‘„ê•˜•„ê•ˆ†Œ“ˆ–±êê
and Austrian-inspired. Their home-brewed beers come by the
glass or in tall pipes: a private tap on your table. QOpen ‹„‘‡¾„‡ˆê‡˜“Œ‘Š–êê
12:00 - 24:00. (14-36zł). PASW „‘‡ê˜Œ†œê•’„–—­
C.K. Dezerter (H.M. Deserters) C-3, ul. Bracka
6, tel. 012 422 79 31. Yellowing pictures of soldiers
posing in trenches and a collection of 19th century clocks }Œ–Œ—ê’‘ˆê’‰ê’˜•êyˆ–—„˜•„‘—–®
decorate this rustic-styled restaurant. Food has influ-
ences from around Central Europe with big helpings of ê iŒˆ–Ž’¾iŒ„ „±ê˜­ê~„•–„š–Ž„꣣ª±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê££ê¨¢¡ê¡©ê§¤
steaks, pork, chicken and other farm animals. The Slovak ê n‡„F–Ž±ê˜­êzˆ•’Ž„꣣½£¥±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¥¨ê£ª¡ê¤¦ê¥¤
cheese soup is a good starter, the pork in brown sauce ê n ’Š’†Išê¡©¦êŽ½r•„Ž’š„±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¡¢ê¢§£ê§£ê¤ª
a decent follow-up. While you won’t regret your visit you ê r•„ŽIš±ê˜­ên•’‡Ž„ꩱꗈ­êФ¨ê¡¢ê¤¢©ê¦¡ê¨§
probably won’t be making plans for a return. Q Open ê r•„ŽIš±ê˜­êš­êhŠ‘Œˆ–ŽŒê¡±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¡¢ê¤¢¡ê¨¥ê¢ª
09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. ê r•„ŽIš±ê˜­êš­êq„‘„꣱ꗈ­êФ¨ê¡¢ê¤¢©ê¥¡ê¥§
(14-35zł). PTAXS ê ƒI‡V±ê˜­ê{•„˜Š˜——„ꢱꗈ­êФ¨ê¤¢ê¦£¢ê¤£ê¢£
ê w’‘„F±ê˜­êr„‘—„Ž„꨽©±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¦¡ê¨¥£ê¥ªê§ª
Chłopskie Jadło C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3, tel. 012 429 51 57,
www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable romp through the glories ê w’‘„F±ê˜­êz—„•œêyœ‘ˆŽê§§±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¦¡ê¨¥£ê¦¦ê¦ª
of Polish country cooking. The menu is a labyrinth of peasant dishes, ê ~„•–„š„±ê“­êr’‘–—œ—˜†Œê¡±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¢¢ê££©ê¡§ê¡§
with a vast choice of what nomrally amounts to enormous helpings ê ~„•–„š„±ê˜­ê~Œˆ•…’š„ꩽ¡¡±ê—ˆ­êФ¨ê¢¢ê¨¢§êª£ê¥¡
of meat and potatoes, and complimentary lard to start your meal.
Bright blue interiors come decorated with jars and pickles and strings
of sausages, and staff are kitted out like saucy country wenches. ššš­†‹’“–ŽŒˆ„‡’­“
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (13-49zł). PTAXSW
October - November 2008
74 RESTAURANTS
Chimera B-3, ul. Św. Anny 3, tel. 012 423 21 78, www.
chimera.com.pl. A real old-timer this one, complete with the
expected cellar setting and a menu that doesn’t come cheap.
You’ll be parting with around 50 zlots for each main course, most
of which seem to revolve around ducks, pigs, cows and other
butchers specialties. For something cheaper hit there budget
salad bar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (30-66zł). TAXS

Debiut D-6, ul. Meiselsa 11, tel. 0 502 31 18 72, www.

cafedebiut.pl. Forgotten corners of Kazimierz do exist, and ul.
Meiselsa is the evidence. Throwing the spotlight on this street
of pet shops and hardware stores is Debiut, a super little newbie
with an artsy look, scandalously decent prices and a very good
chicken fillet served up with spinach. A cracking debut indeed,
and we expect them to continue strongly for the duration of the
season.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (14-28zł). IESW

Dynia Cafe Bar A-2, ul. Krupnicza 20, tel. 012 430
08 38. Ultra stylish, with a design that incorporates lots
of shining leather, bare bricks and circular patterns. But the
best bit of all is the garden, an absolutely ace spot festooned
with plant life. The menu features decent breakfast options,
spaghetti, soups and chicken and pork cooked up in a variety
of ways, as well as a range of low-cal meals for those who’ve
had enough of popping out of their buttons. This being Poland,
you can expect the staff to look rather nice as well.QOpen
08:30 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. (12-25zł). TAGS

Endzior D-6, Pl. Nowy 4b/14, tel. 012 429 37 54. Trust
the line of cheapskates, tramps and drunks that form a queue
outside this hole-in-the-wall budget experience. These sorts
know a bargain when they see one and Endzior can stake a
claim as a bona fide Kazimierz legend. Found in the central
market building invisible cooks serve up the best zapiekanka
in the district through a small hatchway, though it’s the chicken
cutlets that have got us making repeat visits. There is no
better place to line your stomach before hitting the bars of Pl.
Nowy. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (4-15zł). S

NEW
Galicyjska C-2, ul. Pijarska 9, tel. 012 430 07 62, www.
galicyjska.com. This cellar restaurant has all the trappings of
fine dining, from the cutlery to the candlelight and chandeliers,
but with a bill that won’t break your wallet. In fact the ambi-
ance is downright romantic, disturbed only by the Polish Sting
impersonator trying desperately to rock (but not too hard!)
on the radio in the background. You won’t do wrong with the
food here; the duck with forest mushrooms (tis the season)
didn’t disappoint, but we would have sprung for the four person
feast of meats if only we’d been as hungry as four hungry men.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (29-60zł). PTAXSW
Hawełka C-3, Rynek Główny 34 (ground floor), tel. 012 422
06 31, www.hawelka.pl. Kraków’s moved on, but Hawelka hasn’t.
Once considered the height of fine dining this spot is achingly formal,
with its staff dressed in tuxedoes and huge historical paintings hang-
ing off the wall. Former diners include Queen Elizabeth II and the King
of Greece, though there’s little to suggest they’ll be plotting a return.
The menu is an encyclopedic choice of traditional Polish game and
seafood dishes though sadly lacking in flair and invention. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (20-80zł). PTAXS

Jarema D-1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. 012 429 36 69, www.jar-

ema.pl. Classy Eastern Polish and other dishes from the region
in a slightly ostenatatious, 19th-century setting. Waitresses in
traditional costume serve from a large menu including steak
with quails eggs, a few vegetarian dishes, pheasant and wild
boar. Despite the harking back to the good old days, this is
not your classic tourist trap. Highly recommended. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (18-68zł). PTAUIEXSW

Kraków In Your Pocket

76 RESTAURANTS
Eating history
Undamaged by the nazi cyclone Kraków’s old town is one
of the few town centres in Poland which remains in its
original form, and as such represents a breathing history
lesson. With a past that stretches back several centuries
it’s not hard to unsuspectingly find yourself doing your
boozing and dining inside a part of history. Hands down
the most famous restaurant in town is Wierzynek (Rynek
Główny 15) whose opening in 1364 was attended by five
kings and nine princes. The premise of the gathering was
to stop Europe going to war, though by all accounts the
banquet turned into a 21 day feasting marathon, with
drinking playing a big part in proceedings. The restaurant
has been drawing big names ever since, with Spielberg,
Castro and Daddy Bush being a few of the names to have
crossed the threshold.
At the other end of the price scale is U Stasi (C-3, ul.
Mikołajska 16), a milk-bar with a cult local following which
has been churning out good but simple and cheap Polish
food since the Great Grandparents of the current owners
threw open the doors in 1925. Drink in more modern his-
tory in the Noworolski café (Rynek Główny 1). This is the
spot where Lenin would entertain both his wife and his
mistress, and the art nouveau paintings are the work of
Josef Mehoffer. Jama Michalika (ul. Floriańska 45) was
not only the favoured meeting point of all the artsy types
in the Młoda Polska art movement, but also the home of
Poland’s first cabaret, ‘The Green Balloon’. The opening
night was so nerve racking for the compere he got blind
drunk before swearing at the audience and falling off
the stage. That’s show business, and the success of
the cabaret was guaranteed from thereon.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Kawaleria Szarża Smaku (Cavaler y) B-3,
ul. Gołębia 4, tel. 012 430 24 32, w w w.kawal-
eria.com.pl. Thre e vaul te d rooms d e cora te d wi th
an equine motif - paintings of Cossacks and jockeys
hang alongside sabres and hunting trophies - as well
as an atmospheric whi tewashed cour tyard decorated
featuring a stone fireplace and potted shrubber y. The
menu is a strong review of upmarket Polish dishes with
wild boar and suchlike making appearances. Q Open
11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sa t 11:00 - 24:00. (27-69zł).
TYAUIXSW
Kolorowa B-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. 012 423 25 07,
w w w.bohema.cracow.pl. This place is a rari t y, in
that i t promises li ttle and deli vers plenty. The inte-
rior is glum, the tablecloths look third or four th hand
bu t boy do they take Polish classics to new heights.
Turkey breast baked in i ts own juices and ser ved wi th
corn? There’s tradi tional wi th a twist for you. Add in
three or four good veg gie choices, cheap prices and
you have a winner. Q Open 12:00 - 22:00. (12-40zł).
PTAUEX
Kuchnia Staropolska “U Babci Maliny” C-2, ul.
Sławkowska 17, tel. 012 422 76 01, www.kuchniaubab-
cimaliny.pl. Once a run-down milk bar Granny Malina has
enjoyed a makeover and gets better with age. Decked out
to resemble a country cottage you could be in one of any of
Kraków’s rustic themed eateries, were it not for the fearsome
fish tank that takes centre stage in this basement effort. It’s
as cheap as buttons, and the pierogi are a must if you haven’t
eaten for a few days. Definitely the better side of budget
Kraków. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
(12-25zł). PTAGS
78 RESTAURANTS
Podgórze
Visits to Podgórze should begin by crossing Most
Powstanców Słąskich, a 148 metre beast completed in
1978 to serve as a replacement for the Most Krakusa
that once stood in its place. The original, by all accounts,
was quite some effort. Constructed between 1903 and
1913 this iron monster was the work of Edward Zitter,
who apparently modeled his architectural marvel on the
bridges that span the Budapest stretch of the Danube. It
was in the middle that the respective mayors of Kraków
and Podgórze met on July 4, 1915 to cement Podgórze’s
incorporation into Kraków, and two years later it took
on a groovy modern look when a tramline was added.
However, the bridge is best known for its role in the
holocaust - this was the route the Nazis used to herd
Kraków’s Jews into their ready formed ghetto.
From there you’ll find yourself on plac Bohaterów Getta,
looking at 70 chairs scattered around what was the
northern edge of the ghetto. The monument provides
an interesting tribute to the day the former Ghetto was
liquidated. Some 329 houses were incorporated in the
ghetto, sealed off from the outside world by way of a three
metre high wall. Traces of it can still be found standing
on ul. Limanowskiego 62 (J-4) and ul. Lwowska 29 (K-4),
though the sight most people will be looking for is Oskar
Schindler’s Emalia factory on ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4) (see
Schindler’s Kraków).
Head back where you came from and make a beeline
for the ‘Kasa Oszczędności Miasta Podgórza’ on ul.
Józefińska 18 (J-4). Completed in 1910 the building
boasts an impressive secessionist façade, though like
so many places in Poland its interiors contain murky
secrets. During WWII the Jewish Self-Aid project was
housed here, and it was in these halls the dreaded
‘selections’ were made to decide which Jews would be
transferred to death camps. Today the building serves
as a bank and its possible to sneak in during working
hours posing as a customer.
Continue walking in a south westerly direction to reach
Rynek Podgórski, a former market square now dominated
by the intricate shape of the neo-gothic St Joseph’s
Church. Designed by Jan Sas-Zubrzycki and constructed
between 1905 and 1909 the 74 metre steeple was
inspired by St Mary’s in the Rynek. The church is no
less dramatic on the inside, and visitors should look for
polychromes crafted by Jan Bukowski in 1913.
Your tour takes an even more bizarre turn once you
penetrate the greenery standing behind the church. First
off there’s Park Bednarskiego, named after its founder
Wojciech Bednarski. Its opening in 1865 was greeted
with enormous fanfare, with newspapers as far afield
as St Petersburg hailing it as the most beautiful park
in Kraków. Many of Kraków’s Austrian-era forts were
demolished after WWII, apparently to make use of their
bricks, but cross ul. Parkowa and you’ll find (J-5) Fort Św
Benedykta still standing – albeit fenced off to keep away
junkies and vandals. Constructed between 1853-1856
the building housed a military garrison, while in later years
it was used to hold French prisoners during WWII.
Situated close by you’ll find one of the true treasures of
lost Podgórze, the old cemetery. Apparently it once held
the top bods of the district, from town mayors to industry
bigwigs, though ever since it was officially closed in 1900
it has faced a losing battle for survival. The Nazis flat-
tened about a third of it, and it saw further destruction
in the 1970s when vast swathes were cleared to make
way for Al. Powstanców Śląskich.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Miód i Wino (Honey and Wine) C-2, ul. Sławkowska
32, tel. 012 422 74 95, www.miodiwino.pl. Champion
dishes of traditional Polish fare in a setting piled high with
muskets, antlers and suits of armour. Again, all extras (veg-
etables, bread) cost extra, and you’ll need to explain clearly
how you expect your meat to be cooked. QOpen 11:00 -
23:00. (14-99zł). PTAUES
Miód Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka 40,
tel. 012 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consistently
excellent meals have seen Miod Malina establish themselves
as one of the top restaurants in town, so book ahead if you
fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded by the raised
window-side seating. This cheerful looking restaurant comes
with raspberries painted onto the walls and a pleasing glow
that illuminates the darker evenings. Floral touches aplenty
here, lending a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere to this
place, while the menu mixes up the best of Polish and Italian
cooking. The prices remain pegged generously low making
a visit here not just recommended but essential. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (17-56zł). PTAXS
Morskie Oko (Sea Eye) B-2, Pl. Szczepański 8, tel.
012 431 24 23, www.morskie_oko.zaprasza.net. Mor-
skie Oko aims to capture the mountain spirit of Zakopane
so there’s plenty of primitive looking furniture, waitresses
with bits bursting out of tradtional costume and regular
live bands making a racket. The food is caveman in style,
delicious hunks of grilled animals. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(10-50zł). AEBS
Nostalgia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 10, tel. 012 425 42 60,
www.nostalgia.krakow.pl. Smashing Polish cuisine served
inside an intriguing interior that features a fireplace, wood
beams and a galaxy of rural decorative touches. It’s a light
and warming design with plenty of glass bottles and rusty
trappings to act as visual diversions and the menu proves
equally well thought out. Choose from local classics like
the wonderfully fluffy pierogi or opt for the king-sized duck
served with baked apples. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (18-47zł).
PAXSW
Od zmierzchu do świtu D-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 33,
tel. 0 880 19 67 53. Permanently steamed up windows
hide this low-budget legend. The menu, typed out a single
piece of paper, features standards like ribs, pork chops and
bigos, all served with a dollop of mashed potatoes. Off-duty
taxi drivers and spaced out clubbers are happy to sacrifice
comforts like a toilet and a multi-lingual welcome in exchange
for filling meals served way into the bleary hours at weekends.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (8-10zł). GS
Ogniem i Mieczem (With Fire and Sword) J-5, Pl.
Serkowskiego 7, tel. 012 656 23 28, www.ogniemim-
ieczem.pl. Crowded with barrels of mead, bear skins and
even a winged Hussar, the timber interior is a masterpiece.
But the history isn’t confined to the décor - the recipes were
researched in the local Jagiellonian Library. Feast on platters
of roast pig, duck and boar. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Sun
12:00 - 21:30. (25-48zł). PAUIEXS
Pierożki u Vincenta D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 12, tel. 0
501 74 74 07. Feast on no less than 27 types of pierogi
(we counted) as well as the Lithuanian speciality zeppelini
(and with three of these enormous dumplings coming in at
15zł is the cheapest grub in town), as well the Russian ver-
sion of pierogi, pielmieni. Cheap and cheerful busy Kazimierz
sightseers love the place during the day, before giving way
to clubbers who pop in for a pre-dancefloor feed. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (7-32zł). PAUGSW
80 RESTAURANTS
Pod Aniołami (Under the Angel) C-4, ul. Grodzka
35, tel. 012 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl. Sit in
the cellar and you can watch your shashlyk and steak
grill right before your eyes. Filled wi th bench es and
casks, Under The Angels presents good food and an
engaging atmosphere. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-75zł).
PTAXSW
Pod Krzyżykiem (Under the Cross) C-3, Rynek
Główny 39, tel. 012 433 70 10, www.podkrzyzykiem.
com. Brimming with bizarre furnishings, including a section
of glass flooring, the overall effect isn’t unlike climbing inside
a giant Dali painting; the strange sculptures and stained
glass are a great conversation point if you’re on a tricky first
date. Service is young and flawless, while the revamped
menu offers top-calibre local and European dishes beautifully
presented. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
(42-59zł). TAXS
Pod Słońcem (Under the Sun) C-3, Rynek Główny
43, tel. 012 422 93 78 ext.16, www.podsloncem.
com. A typically beautiful Old Town cellar which includes
a stone carving of Mr Sun casting an eye over diners. The
pancakes are a substantial meal in themselves, and there’s
a heap of grilled and skewered animals to pick from as well.
Meals are delivered by an efficient team of scurrying wait-
ers and pretty blondes. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (14-48zł).
PTAIXS
Poezja Smaku (Poetry of taste) B-3, ul. Jagiellońska
5, tel. 012 431 03 67, www.poezjasmaku.pl. A beautiful
network of brick rooms packed with busts, paintings, mirrors
and curios. This treasure is where Britain’s Prince Edward
enjoyed dinner in November 2004. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(12-49zł). AEXS
Polakowski D-6, ul. Miodowa 39, tel. 012 421 07
76, www.polakowski.com.pl. The definitive local dining
experience. Join the queue and order big plates of piping
hot food dished up from metal containers, before leaving
your empty tray by the hatch at the back. Choose from the
likes of pork toast with gravy or beef tripe with mashed
potatoes. Far better than it sounds, and already an edito-
rial fave. Essentially an upmarket milk bar this place has
gone the extra yard (or justified the extra zloty) by adding a
toilet and English language menu. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
(10-20zł). AUXS
Polskie Jadło Compendium Culinarium C-2, ul.
Św. Jana 30, tel. 012 433 98 25, www.polskiejadlo.
com.pl. A hunters heaven wi th big slabs of animals
cooked to local recipes and served up in dinosaur-size
por tions by multi-lingual staff. This new chain of res-
taurants are fast establishing themselves as the place
to go for a first time test of Polish hospitality, and the
rough cut, faux peasant interiors really come alive when
the sound of live mountain bands swirl around. Expect
all the mainstays of Polish country cooking to make an
appearance on the menu. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (15-
80zł). PTAUXS
Polskie Jadło Folwark D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 13, tel. 012
433 97 85, www.polskiejadlo.com.pl. The brainchild of
the man who formerly owned the Chłopskie Jadło group,
so it’s no surprise the interiors are an exact replica of his
previous ventures; turquoise walls, rough cut timbers and
clanky farmyard tools. But this is no copycat, the menu is far
superior with some excellent wild boar perfectly prepared by
a chef who knows his job inside out. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(12-80zł). PTAXS
Kraków In Your Pocket
Polskie Jadło Klasyka Polska C-2, ul. Św.
Tomasza 8, tel. 012 428 00 22, www.klasykapolska.
pl. From the same group behind Polskie Jadło Folwark
this is a more upmarket venue, with flagstone flooring
and dark coloured walls that feature bookshel ves, a
rusty bell and even a smattering of religious icons. The
food is the primar y reason for your visit however and
the menu includes Lithuanian zeppelins and complimen-
tar y bread and lard to star t with. We sampled the duck
duet, which came in such a generous por tion we had
to be airlifted home. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. (7-80zł).
PTAUXS
Starka D-6, ul. Józefa 14, tel. 012 430 65 38,
www.starka.com.pl. The vodka concoctions here are
fabulous, but don’t dare get ruined on them before you
experience the restaurant out back - schoolboy error.
Scarlet walls choc-a-block with black and white etchings
provide a cool atmosphere to drop back into the leather
seating before diving into a menu filled with perfectly
prepared Polish dishes.Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (23-43zł).
PTASW
U Ziyada ul. Jodłowa 13, (Zwierzyniec), tel. 012
429 71 05, www.uziyada.krakow.pl. The menu is an
interesting mix of Polish and Kurdish cooking, and while it
alone doesn’t justify your taxi fare, the location does. Set
in a picturesque castle, once home to a detachment of
Luftwaffe officers, the panoramic views of the Wisła river
are outstanding. Definitely worth the trip. QOpen 12:00 -
21:00. (30-69zł). TAS
Wesele C-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. 012 422 74
60. If you’re a fan of Miod Malina, and let’s face it, who
isn’t, then we’ve got some good news for you. Namely
the opening of Wesele, a project brought to you by the
same gang behind MM. If your Polish is as good as your
Chinese then the first thing you’ll need to know is what the
name means - it’s ‘wedding’, and the interiors are a dead
giveaway, filled with ribbons, flowers and candles. It’s an
impressive venue alright, and with all the clinking glasses
and smiley people it doesn’t take much vision to imagine
you actually have gate crashed a wedding. It’s a super
venue, and the menu doesn’t come second fiddle. This is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(18-64zł). PTAUGSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. 012 424 96
00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was
attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s
been one esteemed guest after another, with former
diners including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods
who influence the way the globe spins. A set of wooden
stairs lead to a series of imposing rooms decked out with
tapestries and plantlife while a seriously high-end menu
includes sturgeon, deer and lamb. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00.
(30-125zł). PTAXSW
Zapiecek Polskie Pier ogarnie C-2, ul.
Sławkowska 32, tel. 012 422 74 95, w w w.za-
piecek.eu. Poland in a nutshell. Join legions of happy
locals tucking into the legendar y pierogi ser ved with
no fuss, no formality by an unsmiling lady from behind
a counter. I t is a long way from fine dining bu t for a
quintessential Kraków experience there are few better
places to come. The three tiny tables on the street
outside are permanently occupied. Q Open 24 hrs.
(8-17zł). TUGS
82 RESTAURANTS
Bloody Students
You could write a book on Kraków’s Jagiellonian Univer-
sity, and indeed a number of boffins have. But what’s a
university without its students, and Krakow’s job dodgers
deserve more attention than most. Of the alumni none
have achieved more than Nicolas Copernicus, a product
of the class of 1492. Lauded as the founder of modern
astronomy it was he who asserted the earth orbited the
sun. Fortunately for him it took the church over 100 years
to decide agreeing with him merited being burnt at a stake.
Other students of note include Jan Matejko, who would go
on to paint one of Poland’s most revered works of art: ‘The
Battle of Grunwald’. Karol Wojtyla, better known as Pope
John Paul II studied in the philology department, as did
the Nobel Laureates Wislawa Szymborska and Ivo Andrie.
Not that all students proved so diligent; Stanisław Lem,
who would go on to pen the classic Solaris, also studied
at Jagiellonian, but hated his medical studies so much he
flunked his exams on purpose. From its early beginnings the
Jagiellonian’s students proved a bit of a handful – exempt
from local justice and answerable only to the rector they fre-
quently ran wild, the Hungarian students particularly prone
to launching pogroms on the towns Jewish population. And
if they sound bad then they’re not a patch on Faust and
Twardowski, two weird sorcerers who allegedly studied at
Jagiellonian, before gaining notoriety having entered pacts
with the devil. It’s not hard to feel sorry for Nawojka, the first
female student to attend the uni. Some 300 years before
women were officially admitted she managed to bypass
discrimination by dressing as a lad.
Seafood
Farina C-2, ul. Św. Marka 16, tel. 012 422 16 80, www.
farina.krakow.pl. Good fish, and a range of traditional Pol-
ish and Italian recipes have won Farina a devoted following.
Quality food is matched by the setting; three rooms each
decorated in a homey, personal style. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(24-55zł). PTAXS
North Fish C-3, Rynek Główny 25, tel. 012 431 19 87,
www.northfish.pl. The closest thing to a fish and chips shop
on the Rynek. Actually, here you’ll find a Baltic bounty of grilled
tuna steaks, salmon and trout, plus the odd chicken breast or
rack of ribs - all accompanied with a choice of fresh salad in
a classy café ambience. The service could be better but the
price is right and they do have one or two quirky touches such
as portions of ketchup served in miniature ice cream cones and
a good choice of wine and beer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (15-30zł). TAGSW
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Kraków In Your Pocket
Spanish
Vinoteka La Bodega C-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. 012
425 49 81, www.bodega.pl. A sleek, cosmo wine bar with
tall stools and aproned staff to take your order. Enjoy a range
of tapas classics while jazz and flamenco sounds are piped in
the background. A wine list of some 400 world wines make
it an ideal venue to impress a good-looking date. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00. (14-40zł). PASW
Ukrainian
Smak Ukraiński C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. 012 421 92
94 ext.25, www.ukrainska.pl. This veteran restaurant has
survived the test of time and continues to serve up consis-
tently decent, warming stodgy food; shashlyks, steaks and
potato dishes, as well as Ukrainian signature dishes such as
borscht and pierogi. The courtyard garden closes the moment
the winter snap sets in so you’re likely to do your dining inside
their folksy cellar where staff dressed in Ukrainian peasant
cloth keep the bottles of Soviet champagne arriving to your
table. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (14-40zł). TAGS
Vegetarian
Green Way C-3, ul. Mikołajska 14, tel. 012 431 10 27,
www.greenway.pl. Excellent little vegetarian food bar in a
medieval setting, where like-minded veggie-heads don’t mind
sharing tables. Chalked up on the blackboard are the day’s
choices - we had a good enchillada. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (7-15zł). PGSW
Momo D-6, ul. Dietla 49, tel. 0 609 68 57 75. A cheap
and cheerful wholefood restaurant churning out plates
of brown rice, organic vegetable concoctions and a good
choice of salads. Popular with left-leaning schoolteachers,
the wacky backpacker set and other colourful individuals,
the portions may not be the largest in the land, but, unlike
anything of a similar ilk found in the West, Momo’s prices
remain ludicrously cheap and the food is both healthy and
worth coming back for. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. (9-15zł).
TUGS
Vega D-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 7, tel. 012 422 34 94, www.
vegarestauracja.com.pl. Immediately east of the old town
with a view of the Planty through the large windows, arguably
Kraków’s best strictly vegetarian restaurant is an exceedingly
feminine affair. A somewhat sombre atmosphere is lifted a
little with the addition of hundreds of dried flowers, and the
food, when it arrives, is actually rather good. If you’re not
a fan of what rabbits like to eat, check out the better than
average salad bar. Also at ul. Krupnicza 22 (A-2) QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. (8-15zł). TAIGS
CAFÉS 83
Albo Tak (Or Yes) C-3, Mały Rynek 4, tel. 012 421 11
05. A charismatic joint accessed by the esoteric bookshop
on the ground floor. A young crowd occupies the random fur-
niture morning, noon and night. Great music, cheap beer and
umbrellas dangling from the ceiling. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
Bambus (Bamboo) C-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. 012
421 97 25, www.cafebambus.pl. Cafe and restaurant
squeezed into a corner of Old Town Square that posesses
one of the most cramped terraces on the Rynek. The food
is by and large cheap and cheerful local fare, the exception
being the excellent and terrific value English breakfast. Not
quite the real deal but a worthy effort. We’re guessing on the
opening hours thanks to a distinct lack of communication from
the manager. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00,
Sun 09:00 - 24:00. TABXSW
Bar 13 C-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. 012 617 02 12,
www.vinoteka13.pl. Enjoy coffee, sandwiches and wine in
a chic basement cafe that acts as a decent place to regroup
following a day of battling the elements outside. Clean-cut
and upmarket, and a popular break spot in between shop-
ping and sightseeing missions. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. PAUBSW
Boogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. 012 429 43 06, www.
boogiecafe.pl. Boogie is whatever you want it to be -
restaurant, bar or café. A soothing chess coloured interior
provides pleasant respite from the sun, while Thursdays
and Fridays see jazz players jump into action for the ben-
efit of an appreciative audience. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00.
AUEBW
Cafe Art C-3, Rynek Główny 23, tel. 012 430 24 36.
Hidden at the back of a hallway and down some steps is one
of Kraków’s better kept Rynek secrets. The arched cellar Słowacki Theater
decorated with bits of dismantled church organ overhead is
good for a candle-lit coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. D-2, Pl. św. Ducha 1.
An architectural masterpiece. Designed by Jan Zawiejski,
Cafe Bar Lodziarnia C-4, ul. Grodzka 13, tel. 0 668 42 and completed in 1893, the Słowacki theatre came under
06 86, www.krainazabaw.com. Wonderful. What looks fierce criticism when plans for it were first unveiled - the
like your bog-standard ice cream parlour hides a huge secret medieval Church of the Holy Ghost was demolished to
upstairs. No, not the steady stream of pretty girls who eat make way for it, much to the disgust of cultural bigwigs like
their ice creams here, instead the children’s playground: it’s Jan Matejko. Modelled on the Paris Opera the Słowacki is
enormous. Heaven sent for parents tired of dragging the kids distinguised for its elaborate facade which is decorated
from museum to museum, you can sit and have a coffee, with allegorical figures. The interior is sadly usually off
cocktail or ice cream, while the young tykes play until their limits to the public unless there is a production on - a
heart’s content in a very safe environment. Don’t forego the pleading look and/or a small bribe are usually enough
great baguettes, a lunchtime treat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. to get past this ob-
TAXSW stacle. The foyer
and marble stair-
Cafe Botanica C-3, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 012 422 89 80, case are supreme
www.cafebotanica.pl. A vast menu of sandwiches, snacks examples of fin-de-
and what has apparently been voted the best quiche in siecle thinking, and
Kraków, all served inside a jungle of plants and trees. Strict the stage curtain is
veggies watch out, a few meat dishes are included on the in itself worth the
menu. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun James Bond devi-
10:00 - 23:00. PAXS ousness needed to
sneak in. Designed
Cafe Ross Amores C-3, Rynek Głowny 15, tel. 012 424 by Henryk Siemir-
96 36, www.rossamores.pl. Valentine’s Day never dies in adzki i t features
Ross Amores, a pinkish venue decorated with flower prints, b eau ti ful pain t-
chandeliers and parlour palms bursting from every corner. ings representing
Run by the Wierzynek clan this place is similarly high-end, drama, com e d y,
with floor space divided into separate chambers, including music and dance.
the cherub adorned fireplace room. On the menu a galaxy of Poland’s first cin-
treat both healthy and naughty, including what is enigmatically ema show was held
described as a spicy tomato and avocado mystery. QOpen here in 1896.
10:00 - 23:00. PTAUIBXSW
October - November 2008
84 CAFÉS
Camelot C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 17, tel. 012 421 01 23.
Let a blissful day unravel before you amid a collection of tiny
tables, squeaking floorboards and watercolors pinned to
white walls. Owlish academics mingle with local hotshots and
braying tourists inside what it no less than a city institution.
Leaf through the piles of press while waiting for their home-
made desserts to wing their way in front of you. Downstairs,
check out Loch Camelot for cabaret, readings and jazz perfor-
mances. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. TIEXSW
Camera Cafe B-3, ul. Wiślna 5, tel. 0 601 19 03 81,
www.camera-cafe.pl. For once a new cafe opens up in
Krakow that actually warrants your time. While the absence
of a terrace would usually see bankruptcy ensue before sum-
mer is out the cracking breakfast treat of scrambled eggs
with bacon should stave off such notions. We visited twice in
a day: first early in the morning, and after deciding it was far
too early for the apple pie with blackcurrant ice cream and
advocate we had to come back later in the day. We were not
disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
23:00. PAXSW
Coffeeheaven B-2, ul. Karmelicka 8, tel. 012 421 30
85, www.coffeeheaven.pl. Expect the mass-produced
charm of a Starbucks inside this chain venture, and while
the atmosphere is non-descript its success is a direct reflec-
tion of the quality found within these walls. Kraków has an
abundance of good cafes serving bad coffee, so it comes
as a relief to find a place that gets the latter right - accept
no imitation. Good range of made-on-the-day pre-packed
sandwiches and cookies, as well as highly recommended
smoothies. QOpen 07:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 21:30, Sun
09:00 - 21:00. PYAGSW
Coffee Republic C-3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. 012 430 24 14.
Placed strategically on one of the old town’s most happening
streets, Coffee Republic attracts a distictively arty crowd. The
décor is minimal and a trifle scruffy, with iconic photographs
on the walls adding a touch of class and internationalism. The
laid back atmosphere extends way into the capabilities of
the waitresses and the coffee is far from impressive, but the
added bonus of wireless internet gives this one a slight edge
over many similar places in the area. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00,
Sat 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. AUBXSW
Dym (Smoke) C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 13, tel. 012 429
66 61. A long, dark café that is famous on account of its
patrons as opposed any genius in the design department.
Appropriately named Smoke, this foggy haunt has a clientele
that wouldn’t be out of place in a Paris literary club. QOpen
10:00 - 24:00.
Europejska (European) C-3, Rynek Główny 35, tel.
012 429 34 93, www.europejska.pl. An elaborately
elegant atmosphere prevails inside this classically deco-
rated local legend. Gramophones, suitcases and even an
English telephone box fit inside the upscale venue. Flawless
bartenders are there to guide your way through the impres-
sive list of tortes and beverages. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PTAXS
Frania E-4, ul. Wrzesińska 6, tel. 0 783 94 50 21, www.
pralniasamoobslugowa.pl. This was part laundrette part
café, now it’s just part cafe. Painted in bright primary colours
and kitted out with the kind of furnishings you’d have seen on
Carnaby Street back in the swinging sixties. Custard yellow
walls come with some token pieces of pop art, and this is
a top spot to hang out in if a passing lorry has just sprayed
your trousers in gunk. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 18:00. RGSW
Kraków In Your Pocket
Gehanowska C-3, Rynek Główny 43, tel. 012 422
93 78 ext.17, www.podsloncem.com. A classy, au-
gust venue with plenty of wood panelling, oil paintings
and delicate crockery. Principally aimed at a pensioned
an d prosp erou s cro wd, G eh an o wska i s a Kraków
insti tu tion. E xcellent desser ts and a small selection
of neatly folded world press. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00.
PTARXSW
Huśtawka (The Swing) C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 9. If
adding the words art and student together tickles your
trumpet then get thee to Huśtawka. This legendary, dark
and moody café attracts almost as much woodworm as
it does wannabe Wyspiańskis, the latter of whom wishing
nothing more than to lounge about on damaged chairs
and read impor tant-looking books whilst tipping back
endless mugs of hot chocolate and the occasional bottle
of Franziskaner. As this is primarily a café, it only seems
fair to point out that the coffeee served here is about as
bad as it gets. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. W
Indalo Cafe B-4, ul. Tarłowska 15, tel. 012 431 00
91, www.cafeindalo.pl. A bright café decked out with
ceramics, glassware, figures of angels and tiny little trin-
kets. They’re all for sale, and best of all you can sit down
and tank back some caffeine while mulling over just what
picture will end up in your suitcase. Surprisingly, the choice
of beer here outdoes many of Kraków’s better known
bars, and features Cornona, Guinness and Staropramen,
as well as a range of local liquids that will leave you with
furry memories of Poland. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 22:00. TSW
Jama Michalika D-2, ul. Floriańska 45, tel. 012 422
15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Not so much a café as
a lesson in local history. Established 111 years ago it was
here that the Młoda Polska movement was founded, with
many of the leading artists of the day choosing to take their
refreshment inside this grand looking venue. Decorated with
stained glass and artwork from the fin-de-siecle era this café
serves as a favoured stamping ground for elder tourists in
colourful clothes, though the poker-faced nature of the staff
limits the appeal of return visits. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 23:00. PAUIXSW
Klimaty Południa Winiarnia (Climates of South
Wine-Bar) C-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 5, tel. 012 422 03
57, www.klimatypoludnia.pl. An utterly simple interior
designed to mimic a Mediterranean farmhouse comes with
all the requisite flagstones and timber beams, while the menu
races through numerous sweet and savoury French style
offerings. The food menu is small and concise, the wine list
is anything but, and definitely worth perusal. QOpen 13:00
- 23:00. TAUIXSW
Kolanko N°6 E-6, ul. Józefa 17, tel. 012 292 03 20. The
plumber who opened this place named it after his favourite
pipe, and there’s wacky touches galore in this spot, including
an antique dentists chair. Chilled grooves contribute to an
escapist atmosphere, and the pancake menu has found itself
entering local folklore. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. ASW
Loża Klub Aktora (Lodge) C-3, Rynek Główny 41, tel.
012 429 29 62, www.loza.zaprasza.net. Beige leather
sofas, skinny waitresses in 1920s flapper dressers and ceil-
ing lighting in the style of Frank Lloyd Wright accompany a
selection of café classics: sandwiches, pasta and ice cream
desserts. Slightly snooty, but worth looking good for. Very
un-Krakowian, very nice. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AW
Młyn (Mill) C-3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. 012 422 23 62. An In
Your Pocket favourite, not least because of the window-side
stools that allow for lengthy spells of judging the local look-
ers. It’s a largely unremarkable regulars hangout this, another
point that marks it out amid the mass of cafes colonized by
foreign screechings. Particularly recommended on a frosty
day is their grill food, served amid cottage decorations such
as baskets and veg hanging from the walls. QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. ASW
Massolit Books & Café A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4, tel. 012
432 41 50, www.massolit.com. A true labour of love, filled
with dusty shelves groaning under the weight of thousands
of broken-backed titles; you’ll find every book ever written
here, providing it was penned by someone with a complicated
name. This is not just the best English language bookshop
you may ever cross, but also an atmospheric café where
budding playwrights convene for muted whisperings and
American cookies. Outstanding. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 21:00. TAGS
Migrena (Migraine) B-3, ul. Gołębia 3, tel. 012 430
24 18. An unassuming backstreet café with a new age aura
and zen-like music. Not just frequented by dreadlocked ‘art-
ists,’ Migrena squeezes in a mixed crowd of people inside
its diminutive interior. A perfect spot to regroup after a night
of generous indulgence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00
- 23:00. SW
Noworolski C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3, tel. 012 422 47 71,
www.noworolski.com.pl. Take a seat in this local classic
and breathe the history. This is where Comrade Lenin would
come and read the papers before going on to achieve greater
things, while WWII occupation saw Noworolski become the
top haunt of Nazi nabobs. It’s hard to believe the over-the-top
interiors have been spruced up since the grand opening in
1910, and the decadent art nouveau finishes seem popular
with Kraków residents enjoying the autumn years of their
lives. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. AXSW
Pierwszy Lokal... C-3, ul. Stolarska 6/1, tel. 012 431
24 41. A large tiled stove, board games and local Dragon beer
seem to be the big draws here. A café that blends seemlessly
into a bar later in the evening, the clientele are a mostly
younger crowd, lured by the above-mentioned elements, all
of them held together by an interesting selection of music.
Highly recommended on a rainy day is a big pot of steam-
ing tea, poured slowly inside you as you relax on one of the
leather sofas in the room to the right of the main bar. QOpen
06:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. USW
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel.
012 429 40 85, www.wedelpijalnie.pl. A superb collection
of confectionary supplied courtesy of Wedel, Poland’s best
loved brand. Find chocolates, cakes and pralines of every
description, every bit as delightful as the aproned girls that
serve them. Interiors are worthy of this kingdom of tempta-
tion and include a vaulted glass ceiling and black and white
pictures of Wedel’s founding fathers. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
PTAGS
Ratuszowa C-3, Rynek Główny 1, tel. 012 421 13 26.
Go through the secret door in the Town Hall Tower on the
Rynek and descend into this nicely renovated cellar pub. One
disconcerting fact you can tell your friends is that it used to
be a prison, hence the heavy doors and dim atmosphere.
The food goes beyond institutional standards though the
limited clientele appear to consist of surprised tourists
who’ve wondered in by accident. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00.
PAXSW
CAFÉS 85
Słodki Wentzl C-3, Rynek Główny 19 (Wentzl Hotel),
tel. 012 429 57 12, www.slodkiwentzl.pl. Allegedly
the best ice cream in the city, and we’ve found no reason
to dispute this claim. A bland interior should not deter vis-
its, this café proves that the Rynek is far more than just
a case of dodging tourist traps. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
PTAXSW
Siesta C-3, ul. Stolarska 6, tel. 012 431 14 88. Mod-
erately decorated with framed pictures and adobe colours,
Siesta attracts groups of all ages. One of the few places in
town that isn’t shrouded in suffocating smoke. QOpen 09:00
- 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. GS
Tajemniczy Ogród (The Secret Garden) C-3, ul.
Bracka 3-5, tel. 012 429 38 14, www.tajemniczyogrod.
pl. As the name in translation suggests, the highlight here is
the secret garden; a beautiful courtyard stuffed with parasols,
plants and wicker chairs. Inside, this pub/café crossover
is terminally packed with Kraków’s arty element. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. AW
TriBeCa Coffee C-3, Rynek Główny 27, tel. 012 429
22 22. Krakow, summer morning, 11am. In Your Pocket’s
most junior member of staff (aged five) wants an ice cream.
Perusing Tribeca’s not unimpressive ice cream menu he
picks out the biggest. Dad orders, sultry waitress replies
‘we have no ice cream.’ Cue wobbly lower lip from Pocket
Junior. Friendly waitress gives Dad a very nice smile and of-
fers a milkshake instead. Major incident avoided. Customer
service like that is impossible to find in Poland. For that
reason alone you should get here immediately. QOpen
08:00 - 22:00, Fri 08:00 - 23:30, Sat 09:00 - 23:30, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. AXS
Smoking or non-smoking
...nowhere in your guide does it mention the huge quanti-
ties of awful tobacco smoke produced by even a handful
of customers in many establishments (in Kraków). There
were quite a few times when we visited highly rated places
in your guide and had to turn around and walk out again…
and I’m a smoker! - Richard Bowen, Scotland
Entering a bar or restaurant can be a risky business these
days for both smokers looking to enjoy their habit and for
non-smokers who wish to enjoy their meal, drink or coffee
and newspaper without having to breathe in someone
else’s fumes. This is particularly true of Poland where
you face a number of issues. Many places will claim to
have non-smoking sections but the size of many of these
places, notably in Kraków, the passion for nicotine which
still exists here and the plain poor segregation make these
completely useless. To confuse matters some businesses
are also adopting complete bans on smoking ahead of ex-
pected legislation already in place in other parts of the new
EU such as Latvia. In order to clarify this we have adopted
a new set of definitions and symbols,which are included
at the end of each review, as regards smoking
G This restaurant or bar has a complete ban on
smoking on the premises
X This restaurant or bar has a smoking section on
the premises
The use of neither symbol means that the old rules apply
in that smoking is permitted on the premises, and even if
there is a designated no smoking area we have deemed
it completely useless anyway.
October - November 2008
86 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 87

Symbol key
R Internet A Credit cards accepted
E Live music I Fireplace
6 Animal friendly U Facilities for the disabled
P Air conditioning J Old Town location
W Wi-Fi
If you believe urban legend Kraków has the highest density
of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be found
in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town
to Kazimierz. It’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your
turn. With more tourism, prices are climbing. Expect to
pay around 7zł for a large beer. The opening hours we list
are flexible, basically if people are drinking, the barman is
pouring.
Bars & Pubs
Af ter Work J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus Hotel),
tel. 012 374 51 00, w w w.af ter-work.pl. A h otel
bar that comes without the hotel prices inside a two
floored glass room attached to the Qubus hotel. The
design is stark, overpoweringly so, with nothing to look
at aside from shining steel and polished wood fittings.
The idea of top-to-bottom windows would work well if
there was something to look at, instead what would
be fantastic river views are blocked by the rest of the
hotel planted outside. Q Open 20:00 - 02:00. Closed
Mon. PAUEW
Black Galler y D-3, ul. Mikołajska 24, tel. 012
423 00 30. Peer through the Stygian gloom and you’ll
find a bar like no other. This cellar is a complete dive,
complete with squelchy floors, a scrum at the bar and
rude doodles in the grotty toilets. The crowd consists
of local nutcases, students, backpackers and Goths, a
bubbly mix that isn’t averse to tr ying to kill each other
at the end of a long night. Completely irresistible, with
the par ty often concluding at daybreak. Q Open 14:00
- 04:00. B
Boom Bar Rush B-3, ul. Gołębia 6, tel. 012 429
39 74, w w w.boombarrush.com. Sunglasses at night
and a spik y hairdo are usuall y enough to get par t the
fashion gestapo h overin g a t th e door. On ce inside
expect a taste of chic minimalism wi th scrubbed stone
walls and cream coloured seating, while a crowd of lo-
cal media twi ts show off well practiced dance moves
to R’n’B and disco backing sounds. Q Open 19:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon.
Budda Bar Drink & Garden C-3, Rynek Główny 6,
tel. 012 421 65 22, www.budda-drink.pl. To enjoy
Buddha to the max you need to visit in summer when the
courtyard garden transforms into an al fresco dance arena.
On those chillier evenings make for the warmly lit crimson
interior which comes illuminated by hundreds of flickering
candles, while drinkers down potent concoctions under the
conceited gaze of gold buddhas. Check out the mezzanine
level for something a little different, while couples suffering
a lull in their relationship should study the wall paintings;
randy Indian figures entwined in Kama Sutra embraces.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. P
Bull Pub D-3, ul. Mikołajska 2, tel. 012 423 11 68. What
the Great British Pub once looked like before the brewing
industry was mugged by alcopops, Wetherspoons and silly
smoking laws. Squint and you could be in the Rovers Return,
what with all the glass sconces, booth seating and pictures
of fox hunting toffs. The Brit associations mean there’s a
fair chance of running into groups of lads freshly dispatched
from an EasyJet, and solo drinkers would be advised to pick
their drinking partners carefully - stories of lone men being
slipped something nasty in their beer have recently emerged.
QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PABX
Bunkier Cafe (Bunker) B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3a, tel.
012 431 05 85, www.alchemia.com.pl. You could be
in Kazimierz - powder blue walls come lined with black and
white portraits of weird looking Addams Family look-alikes,
while furnishings are a jumble of theatre cast-offs and thrift
store surplus. A wrought iron staircase leads to a small mez-
zanine level and interiors come filled with empty birdcages,
flower pots and even a street lamp. The canopied terrace
is open all year round, protected by a layer of transparent
sheeting and outdoor heaters. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 09:00 - 02:00. AX
Café Zaćmienie C-3, ul. Szczepańska 3, tel. 012
431 08 64. Head straight past the sketchy club on the
right and advance over a wooden drawbridge to access
this inner-city oasis. Choose from sitting on a timber frame
mezzanine level, or on the wicker chairs concealed among
the jungle of parlour plants. It’s all completely cheesy, but
a decent distraction from the meat market lad clubs found
in the immediate vicinity. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 01:00. AI

Aloha Café D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. 012 421

25 89, w w w.alohacafe.pl. Kraków’s onl y Hawaiian
pub features a drinks list with David Hasselhoff on the
front, seashells under glass flooring and walls adorned
with photos of palm-lined beaches. Most fun are the
telephones installed at each table, enabling you to order
your next drink without getting up, or call the cutie at
the next table without having to do the hard work of
getting her number first. Check the website for beach
parties, when tonnes of sand is brought in to beckon
barefoot beauties in coconut bikinis. High five. Q Open
15:00 - 03:00. AW

Amphorum C-2, ul. Św. Jana 5, tel. 012 429 10

97, www.amphorum.pl. Half wine bar, half wine store,
with scrubbed brick walls and wine casks utilized as
furnishings. Hungarian wines only, but a superb selec-
tion to keep connoisseurs busy, and a muted ambiance
well matched for lovers tr ysts. A choice of cheeses if
you’re peckish, and online ordering available if you’re
spending the night in front of the TV. Q Open 14:00
- 24:00. PA

Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16, tel. 012 422 01 06.
Split into two rooms separated by heavy wooden doors
Baroque is a sharp and modern space that mixes in the
new with the old. It looks attractive enough, but there’s
one reason alone to be visiting this Godsend, and that’s
the presence of cocktails that rate as some of the best
in the city. Choose from knockout creations like the Polski
Spring Punch, or get your head down and do your best to
rip through their choice of 100 plus vodkas. Hair of the
dog will be in order the next day, and what better way to
dissolve the hangover than with a Bloody Mary. QOpen
11:00 - 03:00. PAXW

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

88 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 89

Carpe Diem Pub C-3, ul. Floriańska 33, tel. 012
431 22 67, www.carpediem.pl. Carpe Diem’s primary
feature is a ceiling which does its level best to decapi-
tate all those who visit. Survive this hazard and you’ll
find yourself drinking in a typical cellar venue, this one
with a half-hearted maritime theme that includes fishing
nets, lanterns and a model galleon hanging precariously
above. The bar staff appear grimly determined to keep
the fridge unplugged at all cost. Q Open 13:00 - 04:00,
Sun 17:00 - 03:00. P
C.K. Browar (H.M. Brewery) B-2, ul. Podwale 6-7,
tel. 012 429 25 05, www.ckbrowar.krakow.pl. Emperor
Franz stares defiantly from the top of the stairs here, possibly
wondering quite how he came to be in the midst of so many
drunken young men. This is definitely one for the lads, with
the raucous beer hall atmosphere accentuated by copper
brewing vats, wood carved furnishings and the dim glow of
tiffany lamps. There’s a few house brews to choose from and
they’re all available in ten litre pipes. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. PAW
Cztery Pokoje B-3, ul. Gołębia 6, tel. 012 421 10
14. Getting in here is harder than it looks. You’ll see it
from the outside easily enough, but the sign standing
outside takes you into a completely different space - either
the work of an English prankster, or a seriously confused
barman who can’t remember where he works. You’ll need
to be taking the courtyard leading to Boom Bar Rush, and
from there you’ll find a great pub that unfolds into four
separate rooms. Dimly lit, and with none of the ponces
found frequenting their neighbouring venue, this is already
proving a popular haunt, and though there’s little to dis-
tinguish it from Kraków’s raft of bars this is a welcome
addition to a street that has always been seen as a bit of
an afterthought. Best of all, there’s no chance of knocking
into an angry looking stag. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
Folia C-3, Rynek Główny 30, tel. 012 423 26 52, www.
foliaclub.pl. An audacious effort to do something different
with a cellar for once. Badly signposted, you need to walk to
the end of the courtyard corridor, down some stairs, round a
few corners and then bang, find yourself inside one of Kraków’s
best bars. The pseudo-industrial interiors hold a collection of
abstract oddities that include Cyrillic lettering, plastic sheeting,
vinyl seating and cocktail menus superimposed onto glass
candle guards. Run by a collection of local art figures Folia’s
walls also showcase weird poster prints such as the delightful
‘Man and Dog without right wing’. Expect the crowd to consist
exclusively of local sex sirens and effeminate celebs. QOpen
15:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. PAUEW
Irish Arms C-4, ul. Poselska 18, tel. 012 292 32 32. One
of Kraków’s liveliest bars, with expats, tourists and natives
contributing to a seriously boisterous atmosphere. This is a
typical export Irish bar with its Celtic memorabilia, Sky Sports
and heart testing fry ups, and with landlord Maurice manning
the bar visitors are guaranteed a warm welcome. The shadowy
wooden corners and stools are often permanently occupied,
not least so during the weekly English language quiz nights, and
this is an essential stop for any pub crawl. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00, Mon 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. PI
Krawat Klub (Tie Club) C-3, Rynek Główny 29, tel. 012
422 25 26. The line of snipped ties that hang above the bar
stand as warning to what happens to prats in cravats, and as
such they’re low on the ground here. It’s primarily a student
crowd that drinks in a large area decorated with vinyl records
and trumpets, which is just as exciting as it sounds. They do
have a pool table though, as well as an electronic dartboard
that bleeps and whistles during moments of particular drama.
QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00. P
Lizak Luzabar C-2, ul. Pijarska 11, tel. 0 515 09 89
74, www.lizakbar.com. A well-designed lounge bar with
Nic Nowego D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 15, tel. 012 421 61
88, www.nicnowego.com. Similar to a cosmopolitan Dublin
Bar the Irish-owned Nic Nowego continues to serve as the
expat communities primary source of hangovers. Black clad
candidates for Miss Polska serve up a wicked array of drinks
from behind a sleek metallic bar, including the best Guinness
in Poland, while Sky Sports keeps a largely foreign audience
captivated. Don’t let the ‘No Stags’ sign on the door fool you,
nights in Nic Nowego have been known to merge into daylight,
and propping up the bar you’ll find a range of characters from
loyal customers who’ve been rewarded with their own fridge,
to bleary eyed lads who’ve just missed their plane. QOpen
07:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 03:00. PAB
Oldsmobil Pub D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 31, tel. 012 425
40 00. Two sections; a traditional wooden bar area in the first
section, complete with a small screen to watch any sports
action, and booth seating in the side room. A car theme
prevails throughout with sepia pictures of vintage cars filling
the ochre coloured walls. Prop up the bar with the locals while
staff fix cocktails like ‘Sex in a car’. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 03:00. PX
Old St. Nick’s Pub C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 (Nathan’s
Villa Hostel), tel. 012 422 35 45, www.nathansvilla.
com. The flagship bar of Nathan’s Villa Hostel, so expect
crowds of backpackers drinking with debauched abandon
and the raucous atmosphere you’d expect when people
don’t have to work the next day. Lucky buggers. Split into
four rooms including a billiard room, separate smoking lounge
and a main bar area, which frequently hosts live music and
impromptu acts of depravity. No problem mingling, and the
quiz nights on Monday and Thursday attract a number of lo-
cal expats taking advantage of the cut-price beer. QOpen
12:00 - 03:00. PX
Mind the Stag
Page 91
Panorama A-5, Al. Krasińskiego 1/3, tel. 012 422 28
14, www.panoramaklub.eu. Home to many things includ-
ing a mediocre disco and an even less exciting restaurant,
Panorama’s genius comes in the guise of offering perhaps
the best view in Kraków. Assuming that the weather is being
kind, the terrace perched up on top of the Jubilat shopping
centre provides a wonderful place to down for a few beers
and gape in wonder at the spectacular view of Wawel and
the Wisła tapering away to nothing in the distance. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. PAW
Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikołajska 9, tel. 012 429 45 97,
www.paparazzi.com.pl. Kraków cocktail culture started
here. This long, narrow space opens up at the back with
a decent room featuring whirring fans and pics of celebs
practicing their pout. The cocktail list is second to none and
this remains first choice for anyone looking to clinch deals
over invigorating concoctions fixed by a team of specialists.
QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PAW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18/3, www.pauza.pl. For
the thinking drinker, Pauza is home to exhibitions, cinema
screenings and an army of failed playwrights discussing their
masterpiece that never was. Permanently cloaked in a hazy
half-light this first floor drinking den stands there alongside
the best, with a floor plan divided into different rooms. A
basement club/bar is now also in operation, with the party
usually concluding at four in the morning. QOpen 10:00 -
24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

10:00 - 04:00. AIXW
DeCafencja C-2, ul. Sławkowska 4. Temperatures reach
microwave levels in this one room affair, but that does nothing
to deter people squeezing in between the odds and ends the
owners have accrued in the cause of decoration. It’s junk shop
heaven here, with paintings and instruments hanging from
walls and weird operatic noises sounding from the speakers.
QOpen 12:00 - 04:00.
English Football Club D-3, ul. Mikołajska 5, tel. 012
421 01 49, www.efckrakow.pl. Apparently the number
of punters coming to town demanded it. Quite literally
wall-to-wall football with team shirts hanging off every
available space, three lions on the floor and Sky Sports
beaming down their banal brand of hype and hyperbole.
This is nothing less than stag heaven, and as such expect
weekends to be awash with Brit lads bowling around
bragging about last night’s prostitute. Real men will take
advantage of the tables out back that come fitted with
their own private beer taps, though they sadly ruined one of
the centre’s best courtyards, formerly of Klub Re.QOpen
13:00 - 01:00. PB
Faust C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 423 83 00, www.
faust.com.pl. A typical Krakowian dungeon space with a set
of perilous stairs leading to a network of rooms that reveal
a Babylonian mixture of languages and vices. The central
location means a quiet night is never on the cards, and lo-
cal DJs spin everything from mainstream MTV hits to more
specialized sounds like klemzer or drum’n’bass - check before
hand to know what to expect. QOpen 12:00 - 03:00, Thu
12:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 07:00. PAEW
Irish Pub
deep leather seats and stark photo images hanging off blank
coloured walls. Soft lighting and spaced out tunes complete
the valium trip, though the planned introduction of big-screen
sports and karaoke may well disrupt those glazed daydream
moments.QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. PE
Certified quality Guinness, a wide range of whiskey, live Irish
Manzana D-6, ul. Miodowa 11, tel. 012 422 22 77, www. music and live sports on a big screen in a great atmosphere
manzana.com.pl. Here’s the deal, on the right side there’s in one of Krakow’s oldest and biggest pubs.
the restaurant, on the left the bar. Both look superb, making
use of black shiny surfaces, huge plants and dimmed lighting.
You find yourself seconds away from plac Nowy, though the • Two bars • Pool • Darts
chances are you’ll be the one customer in here. The reason
soon becomes clear; the cocktails just aren’t very good, and • SKY – TV (All matches
hes shown)
that’s a bit of a problem if you’re touting yourself as a cocktail
bar. The margarita we ordered came served in a whisky glass,
the rim topped off by all the salt in the Dead Sea - lesser men
may go into spasms. They’re open early for breakfast, including
that of the British variety, but you may not want to take the risk.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAUBXW
ul. Św. Jana
M Club C-2, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a, tel. 012 431 00 49, Tel. 012 42
18
www.mclub.pl. Guests get buzzed through a glass door be- 2 61 01
012 422 82
fore being led down the stairs by a tall hostess who would be www.podp 99
apugami.k
equally at home on the centerfold of a magazine. Supremely rakow. pl
classy M Bar is a great detour from Kraków’s student infested Open: Mon
– Sun
cellar drinking pits, and the perfect escape from the stags that 12.00 – Till
the last gu
vomit on the streets outside. Find stick thin girls dressed to est
kill in the latest labels reclining on leather seating, checking
their lippy in the mirrors on the walls, while adept bar staff bring
the cocktail of their choice to the glass topped tables. Enjoy
whispered conversation in the red lit corners while sex music
purrs in the background. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Wed, Thu
12:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEBW

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

90 NIGHTLIFE
Pergamin (The Parchment) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. 0
600 39 55 41, www.pergamin.pl. Take a seat at the bar to
allow the staff their moment of glory as they spin bottles in a
bid to create the perfect cocktail. Elsewhere find secluded cor-
ners aplenty, scarlet colours and clubbish background sounds
stoking the temperature. The perfect pre-party spot on a
street that has emerged as many peoples abiding memory of
club Kraków. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00. PAUXW
Philo D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 30/2, tel. 0 513 06 79 96. Pol-
ished woods, beige leather seating and top-mark house tunes,
played at chillout volume attract a crowd of students with furrowed
brows taking part in intense discussions, poetry readings and
other poncey activities. Night owls should note the opening hours
are no longer round-the-clock. Q Open 24hrs. PEW
Piękny Pies C-2, ul. Sławkowska 6a, www.piekny-pies.
pl. Enter their new locale via a courtyard, which on our visit was
being used as a makeshift toilet by a particularly brazen lady.
Power to you, girl. Spread over two floors find a furnace hot
basement downstairs and two rooms on the ground floor. What
you’ll be lucky to find is a seat. In fact this space packs out so
much it’s hard to determine what it actually looks like. Music
ranges from reggae to disco, while the staff appear powerless
to clear the half-empty glasses that gather on the sticky tables.
Some claim this place has lost the spirit of old, but it remains
your best choice if you want a late night but not a nightclub.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. PEB
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel.
012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. You may
remember Pod Papugami as an underground labyrinth filled
with foggy alcoves and dark tunnels. Well they’ve now ex-
panded, taking control of the ground floor space and doubling
their capacity. They’ve done a good job on the refurb, with all
the requisite carved wood, blackened pots and even a set of
19th century golf clubs and this is nothing less than the full
diddly-di experience - right down to those posters of a toucan
with a pint of black stuff balanced on his beak. The Guinness
here stands alongside the best, while a healthy smattering
of plasma screens mean there’s no chance of putting your
neck out while craning over a tall bloke for a view of the game.
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUE
Przychodnia Towarzyska C-2, ul. Floriańska 53, tel.
012 421 84 65, www.przychodnia-towarzyska.pl. A neon
blue cross marks the entrance to the Emergency Friendship bar.
Regularly packed to the rafters, this is where groups of dressed
up students descend to neck vodka shots and swap phone
numbers. Dancing on the tables is rife and encouraged, so watch
your drink. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. PA
QUBE A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel.
012 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow. Beautiful
waitresses glide around delivering cocktails fixed by expert
bar staff. Found inside the Sheraton’s showpiece atrium,
QUBE’s claim to fame is over 200 brands of vodka, as well
as a genius resident pianist. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PAUEW
Salt & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson SAS Ho-
tel), tel. 012 618 88 88, www.radissonsas.com. Drinking
in the Radisson is as therapeutic as a shot of valium. Pleas-
antly protected from the elements outisde Salt & Co comes
with a bright interior complimented by seats in dark violet.
Modern art hangs from the walls, some of which were made
using salt directly from the Wieliczka Mine. Polite staff serve
a choice of Cohiba cigars while fixing complicated cocktails,
and soft jazz and suchlike slides from the speakers. QOpen
08:30 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PTAUEXW
Kraków In Your Pocket
NIGHTLIFE 91
Shisha Club C-3, Mały Rynek 2, tel. 012 421 64 98,
www.shisha.pl. A wacky bar seemingly plucked from
the pages of an Arabian Nights fantasy. Lose yourself in
a maze of chambers, each boasting names such as The
Sultan’s Room and Shisha Bazaar. There is a menu - pizza,
pasta etc - but the real reason for visiting is the selection
of water pipes. Order one to your table and let the day
slip away. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.
PJAXW
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków
Hotel), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/krakow.
Gaining in popularity, SPE have generated a name for live
sport, live bands and a quality menu that steers towards the
Tex-Mex end of the spectrum. The list of world beers goes
above and beyond the usual choice of local liquids, and the
interior is a combo of Yank road signs and pics of rock’n’roll
heroes. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 01:00. PAUBX
Spokój C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. 012 430 07 28, www.
spokoj.pl. Play out scenes from ‘The Spy Who Shagged Me’
inside this trip back to the 60s. Brown and orange colours
permeate throughout, and authentic touches come in the
way of vintage radios rescued from the attic, furry disco balls
and a zany choice of colours. But this place is no junk store
throwback, the interior looks sharp and snappy, complimented
by a choice of music that runs from disco to jazz. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun
12:00 - 02:00. EW
Sport Bar J-2, ul. Rakowicka 17, tel. 012 623 77 69,
www.sportbar.krakow.pl. Vaulted brick rooms, wooden
benches and a darts machine making bleepy noises indicate
Sport Bar is every bit as original as its name. Salvation
comes in the form of Sky Sports, the apparent absence of
Brit stags menacing the locals and a collection of black and
white pictures showing podgy looking amateur sport sides
in action. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
13:00 - 24:00. W
Stary Port (The Old Port) B-3, ul. Straszewskiego
27 (entrance from ul. Jabłonowskich), tel. 012 430 09
62, www.staryport.krakow.pl. Krakow’s only sailor bar
could be best described in three words only: Never-ending
drunken singalong. This smoky, candlelit ship-in-a-bottle
is packed full of students and seamen on permanent
shore-leave and the selkies, sirens and sea-wenches that
love them. Surrounded by nautical knick-knacks, salty,
sea-creased musicians sing shanties into the wee hours
(particularly on Thursday nights) and fellowship is found
at the bottom of every bottle. Our favourite pub/plank to
walk. Fetch aft the rum, Marcin!QOpen 09:00 - 01:00,
Thu, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 17:00 -
01:00. AUEXW
NEW
Tabu D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. 012 430 01 47, w w w.
pubtabu.pl. This relati vel y new cellar bar near Galeria
Krakowska hasn’t quite found it’s crowd, judging by how
star tled they were when we walked in. Covered wall
to wall in African masks and icons, Saharan stencils
and an telope hides, i t’s a muddled marketin g plan
that actuall y aims for stag groups and al ways has the
game on (even when there is no game). All this inside
a slightl y tack y, subterranean mud hu t, mind you. Wi th
a friendl y English-speaking staff, Guinness on tap and
occasional li ve music, i t’s still a decent, if strange,
spot for a drink (just one of them). Q Open 17:00 -
01:00. PAEW
October - November 2008
92 NIGHTLIFE
The Irish Mbassy C-3, ul. Stolarska 3, tel. 012 431 02
21, www.irishmbassy.com. Poland’s first Irish mega Pub has
opened its doors and taken the unsuspecting city of Kraków
by storm. There’s three floors to choose from, with a fourth
VIP level due to open in the imminent future, though don’t
necessarily bet on finding a seat, especially weekends when
this becomes the first port of call of legions of weekend break-
ers. Numerous TV screens beam down live sport, while other
diversions include curry nights and Playstation competitions.
Shirt and tie staff do well at keeping track of the orders that
come fired at them, while a decent line in pub grub - burgers
and baguettes - makes this a one stop solution for a long night.
Many of the original Gothic details have been preserved in this
vaulted venue, though our favourite touch can be found in the
gents; images of Anna Kournikova doing things to her bottom.
QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. PUW
The Med. Bar B-3, ul. Szewska 18, tel. 012 430 08 01, www.
medbar.org. As the name hints, it’s chiefly medical students who
do their drinking here, something that’s a plus for some and a minus
for others. On the downside many of the boozers and loud and rude.
On the positive end an equal number appear to be female and Nor-
wegian, a combination that we enjoy. Clientele aside there’s little to
separate the Med Bar from others in the vicinity; this is the standard
cellar with murky toilets, exposed walls and a treacherous staircase.
QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 05:00. PA
Tram Bar C-3, ul. Stolarska 11, tel. 012 423 22 55,
www.trambar.pl. You will love the menu, a faithful reproduc-
tion of the Kraków transport map with station names replaced
by drinks. Next stop, Herb and Honey Coffee? Located next to
the US Consulate it is alternative without going over the top:
you can escape the standard Kraków crowd here but avoid
the more artsy types who make so many places in the city
unbearable. Decent music gets played on Friday and Saturday
nights when it becomes one of ‘Off Rynek’s’ top venues.
QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. AW
Trzy Rybki (Three Fish) C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5 (Stary
Hotel), tel. 012 384 08 08, www.stary.hotel.com.pl.
Two choices: drink on the ground floor surrounded by huge
armchairs, vaulted ceilings and scrubbed stonework, or take
the lift to the top floor where a narrow glass room offers
grandstand views of the town square. Found in Kraków’s best
hotel, so expect to see plenty of champagne corks being
popped. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. PARUBW
U Kacpra C-3, ul. Sławkowska 2, tel. 012 421 88 26. A basic
cellar decorated with tatty brewery bumph and a giant Black Death
Vodka pennant. The staff should be tarred and feathered: it’s the
customers who should be immersed in conversation, not the bar-
man. Kraków has better bars. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00.
U Louisa C-3, Rynek Główny 13, tel. 012 617 02 22,
www.ulouisa.com. Combining the comforts of an expat-
friendly watering hole and a decent place to watch sport on
a big screen, this superbly located bar tucked away in the
bowels of a fancy shopping centre has gone for a combination
medieval-industrial look complimented with some of the finest
looking barmaids in Poland. A good choice of bottled German
beer finishes things off nicely, making this a superb venue for
getting away from both the hot and the cold weather. QOpen
11:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. PAUEXW
Vis a Vis C-3, Rynek Główny 29, tel. 012 422 69 61. One
of the scummiest bars in town, and one of the few places where
the locals outnumber the tourists. Watching the local barflies
getting pissed on vodka makes for an intriguing social study, and
no matter how unappealing it sounds this is a great place for a
taste of the real Kraków. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. BW
Kraków In Your Pocket
There’s nothing quite so quintessentially
British than grown men setting off for
foreign climes dressed as women or
Flintstones before subjecting the local
population to a barrage of colourful
songs, vomit and innuendo. Better
known as the Stag Night, Poland, and
in particular Kraków, has become big
news for groups of lads looking to give
an unwitting groom his ‘last night of
freedom’. While the 90s saw Dublin and Amsterdam – then
later Prague – as the destination of choice, the boom of the
budget flight has brought the rest of Europe within reach of
these marauding stags. With the rise and rise of the budget
airlines continuing unabated, Kraków has never been so
accessible, though that’s just part of the reason for its
burgeoning popularity. Without doubt, and much to the delight
of local cash tills, the city meets all the criteria for pre-marital
horseplay; cheap beer – check, locals that speak English –
check, lots of connections to English airports – check, and last
but definitely not least, centrefold women – most definitely.
But while landlords are laughing all the way to the bank the
rest of the populace isn’t. A backlash of sorts has begun with
some pubs banning stags, and the local MPs declaring their
determination to see them banned altogether from setting
foot in Kraków.
Need to Know
For the stags who find themselves wandering Kraków it’d
be useful to reiterate a few points raised elsewhere in the
guide. Polish booze is dynamite. While excessive drinking
might be a national sport, the local robocops do not take
kindly to displays of overt public drunkenness – least of all if
it emanates from some bright spark dressed as Chewbacca.
A trip to the drunk tank will set you back 250zł, and more
importantly will see a good chunk of your weekend spent
locked in a cell with members of the great unwashed. While
Kraków cannot be classed as a dangerous city, the local
football thugs and other assorted pondlife will not necessarily
be impressed by loud English groups. Common sense is
enough to avoid clashing with the native headcases. Finally,
do check beforehand if your travel plans match the Pope’s;
the pontiff’s visit in May was celebrated with a blanket alcohol
prohibition throughout Kraków, leaving several bemused
stags casting dark glances at the best man.
What to do
Beer and women will usually top most stag agendas, and you’ll
find plenty of both within the confines of old town. The Irish pubs
are the natural gravitational point, with Nic Nowego (D-3 ul. Św.
Krzyża 15) being the editorial pick of the bunch – officially stags
are banned but providing you don’t step out of line you shouldn’t
find a problem getting served. Find round-the-clock fry-ups,
Premiership football, a vast music list and a patient team of pretty
bar girls professional enough to humour your slurred marriage
proposals; but be warned rowdy behaviour will not be tolerated.
Close by the Bull Pub (C-3 ul. Mikołajska 2) lures the Brits in with
its pronounced English air, before losing its customers to the night
on account of a seriously sensible atmosphere – don’t expect to
find Kraków’s party animals taking their drinks inside this Rovers
Return look-alike. For something more boisterous hit the Irish
Arms (C-4 ul. Poselska 9) for a hazy slice of all hours Kraków.
Sky Sports are part of their repertoire, a claim also shared by U
Louisa (C-3 Rynek Główny 13) – a cavernous cellar ideal for group
drinking. You’ll find the most popular stag destination on (C-3) ul.
Stolarska 3. The Irish Mbassy is stag heaven with three levels
rammed with screens, fit birds manning the bar and soakage like
burgers and roasts. For more Sky Sports check the decidedly
STAGS 93
upmarket environs of Someplace Else
(A-5 ul. Powiśle 7) in the Sheraton. While
drinking in a hotel bar may not sound a
vote winner SPE has plenty of stand-alone
appeal – frequent live bands, sports, some
seriously competent bartenders and a
highly recommended Tex-Mex menu.
On the subject of food, be warned
when considering Kraków’s ethnic
options, most of which will be far inferior
to what you may be used to. Finding spicy food is as elusive
as a pot of gold. If you want to play safe then opt for one of
the Polish choices. You’ll find a good range of restaurants well
suited and well used to rowdy mobs of which the most popular
choice is probably the chain of Chłopskie Jadło restaurants
(D-6 ul. Św. Jana 3, C-6 ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 and C-4 ul. Grodzka
9). They’ll be quite familiar to serving foreign groups, and the
food, while way short of prize-winning standards will do the
job of lining your innards for the night ahead. For burgers
and ribs fare then get a one way ticket to Rooster (B-2/3 ul.
Szczepańska 4), where food arrives courtesy of Baywatch
blonds wearing skimpy shorts and fixed smiles.
For nightclubs Prozak (C-4 pl. Dominikańska 6) is the first
choice for the stags, with a red-blooded atmosphere that has
started to resemble the meat market clubs found on home
shores. And if ever you needed a sign from the heavens,
Kraków’s best kebab can be found directly outside. Do be
warned, Kraków’s premier league clubs such as Cień and
Midgard will not entertain the thought of letting in drunk
oafs through the doors unless they are kitted out in their
best wardrobe.
Disregarding a miracle, the likelihood of Poland’s females
being impressed by your drunken antics are highly minimal, in
which case there’s a chance you’ll be ending up in one of the
few strip clubs in the city. Nightclub 66 (J-1 Al. 29 Listopada
165) claim to be the stag specialists, with private dances going
from 120zł. You will be travelling by cab, but the good news
is that the ladies will at least have the decency to pretend to
enjoy your company. Best of the lot is Gold Club (ul. Księcia
Józefa 71, www.goldclub.com.pl, open 21:00-04:00). The girls
here are knockout, with enough skin on show to have your
eyes pinballing round their sockets. Lap dances start at 50zł
per dance with admission weighing in at 30zł. While Kraków
does not have a specific red light district there are a number
of houses of ill repute that will cater to more hardcore urges.
For the pick of the bunch request your cab driver to make the
20zł journey to Pussy Cat (ul. Otwinowskiego 6), where one
hour with the lady of your choice starts at 150zł. Alternatively
hit the creatively named Topolowa 22 (ul. Topolowa 22), or
Nightclub 37 (ul. Mogilska 37), both of which have small bar
areas and prices starting from 150zł per hour.
Trust others
When it comes to organizing a stag night the chances are
that the best man will be the biggest half-wit in the pack, in
which it’s always best to put your faith in the professionals.
Of all the stag organizers, possibly the most interesting
package you’ll find will be from the team at Crazy Stag (www.
crazystag.com). Aside from paintball and go-karting the team
here specialize in the unexpected. A sum of 1,200 złoty will be
enough to organize a mafia style kidnapping, or alternatively
why not take a tour of Kraków in a limo complete filled with
strippers, or celebrate the event in Communist style.
Brit based ‘Last Night of Freedom’ (www.lastnightoffreedom.
co.uk) can organize tank driving, Kalashnikov’s, football
matches and other Alpha Male activities, while Polventure
(www.polventure.co.uk) are the people to get in touch with
if you want to get the groom ‘zorbed’ (put inside a giant ball
before being despatched down a steep hill).\
October - November 2008
94 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 95

Clubs
Krakow has a healthy number of clubs dotted around the
city with parties going on pretty much most evenings. For
the latest in what’s on check out the English-language
where2b.org website.
Afera (Affair) C-3, ul. Sławkowska 13-15, tel. 012 421 17
71, www.klubafera.pl. Another place with death trap stairs,
and if they don’t get you then the girls will. This is the kind of meat
market where the percentage game works, and decorations are
limited to squelchy floors and scummy walls. If nothing else it’s a
good laugh on a late night, with the occasional squealings from
the toilet adding to the laddish comedy. QOpen 17:00 - 04:00,
Tue 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 1. Closed Mon, Sun. PA
Art Club Błędne Koło (Vicious Circle Art Club)
C-3, ul. Bracka 4 (first floor), tel. 012 431 20 52, www.
bledne-kolo.krakow.pl. Through the courtyard and up the
stairs to your left. Another Bracka hit filled with students
and metrosexuals enjoying a wide variety of club sounds in
an eclectic maze of rooms filled with wooden chests, sofas
and bookshelves. At the weekends the parties have been
known to stretch long into the next day. Subject to a summer
renovation the Art Club is now back up and running, and better
than ever before. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Thu 17:00 - 05:00,
Fri, Sat 19:00 - 06:00. PEXW
Boro C-3, Rynek Główny 27 (Courtyard), tel. 0 693
92 20 10, www.boro-club.pl. This venue has changed
named from Pod Baranami to Boro, but they’re not fooling
anyone. This dinosaur smells like the institution that it is.
Half a century of hard parties and spilt beer give it the unique
odour associated with only the most legendary of bars. Es-
sentially a circus of plastered middle-aged locals, so a quick
visit is required entertainment. QOpen 17:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 04:00.
Kijów Klub H-3, Al. Krasińskiego 34, tel. 012 433 00 33,
www.kijowklub.pl. Gone are the days when clubbing in Kraków
meant turning up in a hoodie before squelching across sticky
floors. Kijów is the new face of clubbing, Kraków-style, with a
design that’s seen every spare shekel spent on turning it into
a bit of a masterpiece. Filled with shiny surfaces, backlit glass
blocks and vomit-green leather armchairs this place certainly
looks the business, and unlike other Kraków clubs they’ve not
overlooked the music. Booked up are some of the best DJs in
town, with the vinyl selection erring towards electro house. It’s
free to get in, but you’re expected to look the part. QOpen
19:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 03:00. Closed Tue. PAEW
Loch Ness Rock Pub D-1, ul. Warszawska 15, tel. 012
423 30 32, www.lochness.pl. Another typical Kraków drinkery
this, with lots of bare bricks, and table football and pool to keep
the student gangs who roam here out of the lecture hall they’re
meant to be in. Absolutely huge, and popular with wannabe pop
stars singing into the karaoke microphone every Friday.QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 03:00. EW
Łubu-Dubu D-4, ul. Wielopole 15, tel. 0 694 46 14
02, www.lubu-dubu.prv.pl. A mangy first floor apartment
doubles as one of the best addresses in town. Different rooms
accommodate boozing and dancing, and pink lamps and
Bruce Lee posters generate a quirky 70s ambience. Music is
a jumble of genres, from disco to new romantic, and a shabby
projection screen often plays cult arthouse productions.
Fantastic. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Wed 18:00 - 03:00, Thu
18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. PAEW
Music Bar 9 B-3, ul. Szewska 9, tel. 012 422 25 46. For those
who don’t take their clubbing seriously. The best part of Music Bar 9
is the summer courtyard, which means that you have few reasons
to visit in winter unless you enjoy standing shoulder to shoulder with
people spilling lager on each other. The music is crass, commercial
tat, and the sticky maze of cellar rooms becomes a good hunting
ground if you’re looking for a short term partner to enjoy the night
with. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. PXW
NEW
Pauza C-2, ul. Floriańska 18/3, www.pauza.pl. For the
thinking drinker, Pauza is home to exhibitions, cinema screenings
and an army of failed playwrights discussing their masterpiece
that never was. Permanently cloaked in a hazy half-light this first
floor drinking den stands there alongside the best, with a floor
plan divided into different rooms. A basement club/bar is now
also in operation, with the party usually concluding at four in the
morning. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
Playground D-4, ul. Wielopole 15, tel. 0 600 31 16 59. The
house on Wielopole 15 is the closest Kraków comes to having
one big squatters party. You’ve got four dark and divey clubs to
choose from with Paradox being the latest addition. Found in the
lower reaches of the building this is a bare bones club, scummy
some would say, which stands out on account of messy nights
that would make Caligula blush. Depending on the night you’ll hear
everything from techno to reggae, enjoyed by a crowd that shuns
the laser lights of mainstream Kraków nightlife for a dose of sweaty
club carnage. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. PAUW
Pod Jaszczurami (Under the Lizard) C-3, Rynek Główny 8,
tel. 012 292 22 02, www.podjaszczurami.pl. Pod Jasczurami
continues to do a roaring trade with Kraków’s students and pass-
ing tourists. Beer stained posters promote upcoming gigs, and
the stage often finds itself turned into an impromptu dance arena.
Effectively a smoky extension of the university common room
Under The Lizard is more of a drunk tank than a think tank, and an
uncomplicated spot for a good night. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. PAEW

Cień (The Shadow) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15 (Courtyard), tel.

012 422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. Do expect to queue
at weekends, and wear your best wardrobe if you want the
chance to party alongside platinum waifs and other beautiful
creatures. A welcome break from Kraków’s more mainstream
spaces expect to find top house sounds being played to a
chemical crowd inside a cavernous set of medieval vaults.
QOpen 21:00 - 06:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00. PAE
NEW
Circus ul. Starowislna 16. The same merry pranksters that
gave us Kitsch have now taken the seats out of this former cin-
ema, turning it into their latest, most massive meat-market, and
boy is it...kitschy. Covered in fur and rainbows, cows and tigers,
Circus is over the big-top in every way, like a Reno casino without
the slots. The balcony hosts a tame VIP section overlooking
the gigantic dancefloor, which is dark enough to be shamelessly
shitfaced on, replete with a pole (for some Pole-on-pole action!)
and stickier than a peepshow window. We definitely foresee
fun times here in our future, but we’ll bring a flask because
it takes an hour to get a damn drink at the tiny bar.QOpen
08:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.

Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www.
ensoclub.com. Open Friday’s and Saturday’s only, but well
worth saving yourself for. This place has made a hot start,
attracting a young, well groomed crowd of beautiful things.
A lot of effort has been paid to the design, which can best be
described as futuristic, and the sound system is top notch.
Clearly it’s cocktails that are the order of the day here, and the
bar staff aren’t afraid to experiment. QOpen 20:00 - 03:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAW

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

96 NIGHTLIFE
Prozak (Prozac) C-4, Pl. Dominikański 6, tel. 012 429
11 28, www.prozak.pl. Once ‘A-list’ now ‘A miss’ Prozak may
no longer be fashionable but that hasn’t dented its popularity.
Formerly the domain of Kraków’s saucy lookers the clientele
on the male side has now nearly entirely been replaced by
foreigners, usually British, always utterly trousered. On the
female side its essentially bottle blondes, the majority of
which seem happy to accept drinks from foreign sponsors.
The interior and music are nothing special, but that doesn’t
stop the door ape from guarding his patch with grunting
ferocity. If nothing else it’s good to see so many obnoxious
people siphoned off the streets and securely hidden away
in this basement offering. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat
19:00 - 06:00. AEW
Rdza (Rust) C-3, ul. Bracka 3-5, tel. 0 600 39 55 41,
www.rdza.pl. This cave-like basement with a door queue
rates as one of the best clubs on call in Krakow. Look your
best to make it past face control then take your place on
the dance floor alongside delicious looking party creatures.
Imported DJs and the cream of Polish house music keep the
party rocking into silly o’clock. QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. Closed
Mon, Tue, Sun. PAE
Roentgen C-3, Pl. Szczepański 3, tel. 012 431 11 77,
www.roentgenklub.pl. Pitch black, with head mashing
techno noise guaranteeing a trip back to the early 90s. Find
sofas with springs sticking out of them, and a commited
crowd letting loose inside a murky basement. QOpen 20:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 07:00. Closed Sun. PE
NEW
Stara Piekarnia (The Old Bakery) ul. Dwernickiego 5
(Grzegórzki), tel. 0 513 06 79 96, www.clubstarapieka-
rnia.pl. Hidden in an obscure and generally lifeless part of
town, this surprising new club keeps going and going. Liter-
ally. A long hallway leads you through a jigsaw of well-loved
leather sofas swathed with shisha-smoking sixteen year
olds, past amateur murals and two bars to a dark dancefloor
where diligent djs keep the young things throbbing late into
the night. Beware the bathrooms, but the beer is cheap,
the music bass-heavy and the girls beguiling. Feels a bit
like a frisky after-school program, but fair play. [Wednesday
nights the Old Bakery hosts a weekly meeting of members
of couchsurfer.com; we can conclude not due to convenience,
but the number of couches. 20:00.] QOpen 12:00 - 02:00.
PAIXW
Gay & Lesbian
NEW
LaF D-7, Pl. Wolnica 7, tel. 012 422 00 46. Occupying the
former cellar of Podczerwień (entrance through Cafe Młynek),
LaF has opened its gay-friendly doors and arms on Kazimierz’s
Plac Wolnica, receiving a warm, sweaty embrace and sly hand
on the tush. That is to say, it’s a welcome addition and all in
good fun no matter what your inclination. Rainbow free, favor-
ing clean curves over exposed bricks, the most flamboyance
you’ll find here is on the damp, intimate dancefloor which heats
up early and goes the distance to 4:00, with a large coatcheck
encouraging you to go experiment. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. PAEW
In Kazimierz
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. 012 421 22 00, www.
alchemia.com.pl. Beret-clad theatre queers sit alongside
students studying by candlelight inside this piece of Kraków
folklore. The daylight that peers through the shutters reveals
signs of serious neglect, but that becomes forgotten as
Kraków In Your Pocket
blackness descends, hiding the scabby rugs and fading
photos from view. Mind the steps and wobbles that hijack your
attempts at effortless cool, and note that the bar is strictly
self-service. Completely weird, and highly recommended.
QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00. AIE
B-Side D-6, ul. Estery 16, tel. 0 694 46 14 03. The
music lovers choice. Low-white leather ottomans and steel
gray walls lined with clippings from the music press; the best
thing about drinking on the ground floor are the views directly
onto a public toilet. Make your way downstairs to find why
this place has become big news in Student Land. Bare bulbs
light up a plain space where people with bushy sideburns
and retro tops dance like there’s no tomorrow to rare find
indie tracks. QOpen 16:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 04:00.
PAREW
Baraka D-6, ul. Warszauera 1, tel. 0 504 22 84 28,
www.baraka.pl. Similar to the bar of a nightclub Baraka
play loud hip hop noise to a backdrop of exposed pipes,
spongy synthetic seating and dizzy blue circles painted on
every surface. The crowning glory is a huge window filled
with thousands of copper coins. Crass and loud, that doesn’t
stop the fake tan and black dress crowd from flocking. Up-
stairs, something completely different: a sprawling lounge
space decorated with pastel tones, low seating and local
artwork. QOpen 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00.
PUEXW
Buena Vista D/E-6, ul. Józefa 26, tel. 0 668 02 48 19,
www.buenavista.krakow.pl. A great place with montages
of Cuban street life, hip-wiggling Latin rhythms and service
with cherry pie smiles. The obligatory mural of Che stares
down at the patrons while staff fix a range of knockout
mojitos from behind a gleaming bar area. This spot recalls
the age of Hemingway with its whirring fans, newspaper
menus and waving palms, with the party finally dying in the
early hours. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PAEBW
Club Clu E-6, ul. Szeroka 10, tel. 012 429 26 09, www.
clubclu.pl. Half lounge, half club, and proof that there’s
more to ulica Szeroka than klezmer music and second hand
furniture. The red-lit lounge room is the perfect space for
after-party moments, with its choice of white sofas and
understated interior of gas lighters, sculptures and exposed
brick walls. The dance floor is more futuristic and fills with
sweaty clubbers shaking their hips to house, r’n’b and latin
sounds. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00.
Closed Sun. PAW
Enzo D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 14, tel. 0 696 51 05 54,
www.enzo-club.pl. If you’re looking for a Kazimierz outlet to
show-off your crocodile loafers and platinum blond supergirl
then look no further. This place has clearly crawled from the
pages of Wallpaper magazine, with stark black and white
chessboard colours illuminated by soft blue lighting, and a
design that screams at anyone whose not rich to get out,
fast. Ultra minimalist, with space age toilets, womblike ambi-
ent grooves and weird curving angles this place looks set to
become HQ for Kraków’s growing tribe of fashionista. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. PW
Królicze Oczy (Rabbit eyes) D-6, ul. Estery 14, tel.
012 431 10 31. Zero ventilation and crowds of smokers
conspire to make this spot hotter than the sun. Strings of
glass beads hang over each doorway, broken-spined books
lie on a trolley and, for good measure, a comedy wig and a
pair of pantomime rabbit ears dangle next to the bar. QOpen
10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AW
La Habana D-6, ul. Miodowa 22, tel. 0 602 19 25 82. Firts
the lecture in politics: Castro is not cool. He is a murdering bas-
tard who imposed 50 years of poverty on his own people. Now
that’s done, the place itself... La Habana is starting to look dark
and seedy, which is by no means a bad thing. Behind the cracked
glass door find some token palm leaves, pictures of Cuban life
and more surprisingly, a mysterious corner set aside for Tarot
readings. Salsa and rumba sounds, as well as potent mojitos.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. UE
Le Scandale D-6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. 012 430 68 55, www.
lescandale.pl. Some of the best cocktails - test the Bahama
Mama - in Kraków served inside a series of rooms that throng
with Bond girls and people who look like they may well be minor
celebs. Canvas sheets cover the ceilings, and the curtained off
rooms are home to low-level sofas and the occasional Persian rug.
This is modern Kraków at its strongest. You may not want to leave.
QOpen 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. PAUW
Les Couleurs D-6, ul. Estery 10, tel. 012 429 42 70, www.
kolory.com.pl. Thinking man’s café by day, glorious place to
drink in at night, Les Couleurs offers a ringside seat overlooking
the fishy goings on in Plac Nowy and a distinctly Gaulesque ambi-
ence to boot. A curious fusion of spit and sawdust with a twist
of sophistication, expect to rub shoulders with the cream of the
city’s creativity, hell-bent on turning blood into beer amidst a sea
of classic French posters. One more reason why Kazimierz’s night
life knocks the socks off its more conservative counterparts in
the old town. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat
08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. UXW
NEW
Masada D-7, ul. Krakowska 41 (entrance from ul.
Skawinska 2), tel. 0 662 345 060, www.masadaklub.
pl. If you’ve had enough of smokey, claustrophic cellar clubs,
then get thee to this absolutely massive new venue on the
other side of Kazimierz. Ignore the superfluous number of side
rooms, Masada’s showpiece is its open, incredibly spacious
and versatile main hall with a balcony bar, a stage in the corner
for live bands or dj sets, and tons of seating and space to
dance. In fact, Masada’s biggest shortcoming may be the
inability of its grandeur to create a party atmosphere. That
and the 8zł beers and mindboggling revelation that there’s
only one toilet. Still, this place is classy and refreshing in
every other way, so mingle in the queue we shall. QOpen
16:00 - 02:00. AEXW
Mechanoff D-6, ul. Estery 8, tel. 012 422 70 98. Our
favourite place in Kraków? We think so. Behind the copper
plated bar are any number of once cutting-edge, wierd and
wonderful contraptions which you will have you guessing long
into the night as to their original purpose. Not that you will mind
spending time here: the music is the right side of left field -
think Bregovic and Tiersen - the staff ace and the crowd real.
Poseurs steer clear. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 - 02:00,
Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. BW
Miejsce (The Place) D-6, ul. Estery 1, tel. 0 783 09 60
16, www.miejsce.com.pl. Unmissable, providing that is you
do miss it. With no sign above the door it’s easy to overlook
this place; don’t make such a mistake. Decorated with hastily
painted white walls, rainbow coloured seats and hardwood
floors this is one of the best additions Kazimierz has seen for a
while, and that’s the reason you’ll find so many student types
showing off the latest retro-nerd fashions here. There’s clever
lighting courtesy of a galaxy of weird lamps, and a selection
of chillout grooves to complement the post-industrial artsy
atmosphere. An oasis of originality in an area that is in danger
of becoming a parody of itself. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. AUBW
NIGHTLIFE 97
The law
Visitors to Poland should bear in mind one thing: chalking
off the days sat in a Polish prison cell is no way to spend
your holiday. For this reason you’re going to be wanting
to stay on the right side of the law. It’s no surprise
that most scrapes with the system are attributed to
alcohol, or more to the point, a persons inability to
handle it. Those caught in a state of intoxication face
a sobering up period in the local drunk tank, as well as
a 250złoty fine at the end of their incarceration. Police
are obliged to call on your behalf to someone to let them
know where you are.
Possession, sale and production of all narcotics is illegal
in Poland and those caught with a bit of weed or a bag of
beak can be held for 48 hours without charge. Foreigners
are entitled to a certified translator as well as a phone
call, with potential prison sentences ranging from one
to eight years.
Prostitution is not illegal in Poland, so both cat and
customer are safe from arrest. Pimping however is, so
forget that get rich quick scheme you had hatched earlier.
The police keep a relatively high profile on the streets,
and these guys are not to be messed with. If stopped a
smile and an apology will always be more effective than
a ‘f**k off, we’re English’. And do note that the police will
use any excuse to stop people.
Jaywalking is a particular favourite and you won’t be
the first to fall foul of Poland’s draconian laws. Those
spotted walking through a red light, or preferring to use
the street as opposed to the closest pedestrian crossing
face a 50-250zł fine.
Mleczarnia D-6, ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. 012 421 85
32, www.mle.pl. This might just about be the best
place to drink a coffe, juice or somethin g stron ger
in Kazimierz. Wi th i ts full-open windows, ricket y old
furniture, family por traits (Whose? No idea) and dusty
wooden floors, it is what the whole of Kazimierz was
once about: taking things as they come. Plonk yourself
down at a table with a good book and settle in for the
afternoon. Just fabulous. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 10:00 - 04:00. AW
Moment E-6, ul. Józefa 34, tel. 0 668 03 40 00, www.
momentcafe.pl. Clocks of every bent and persuasion line
the walls here, from vintage antique efforts to digital relics
from the 80s Casio age. Best of all, they’re all incorrectly
synchronised, meaning you’ve got the perfect excuse to be
late for that girl you vaguely remember arranging to meet
the night before. This place is well worth hanging around,
with a crew of metrosexual sorts sitting around a metallic
wraparound bar, and a slanted glass roof covering a dim-lit
lounge room outback. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
- 01:00. PAEW
Omerta D-6, ul. Warszauera 3 (entrance from ul.
Kupa), tel. 0 501 64 84 78, www.omerta.com.pl.
A standard modern looking bar, this one with a Mafia
twist; wall space comes adorned with pics and quotes
from The Godfather, and there’s a super little armchair
positioned on a raised bit of staging for any visiting
dons. The selection of locall y brewed Polish bottled
beers is second-to-none, and their alcoholic content
sometimes hi ts double figures. Interestingl y there’s
a Guinness ashtray, but no Guinness, which asks the
question from which Irish pub did the owners steal it?
Q Open 16:00 - 24:00. U
October - November 2008
98 NIGHTLIFE
Czesław Miłosz
Czesław Miłosz (1911-2004) has come to be regarded
as the finest Polish writer of the 20th century, his work
influencing generations of natives and foreigners alike.
Born in what is now Lithuania Milosz opted to study law
at uni, though the course was to prove a bit of a thorn in
his backside – a fear of statistics saw him flunk numerous
exams, before finally graduating in 1934. He published
his first collection of poetry that same year, and in 1937
took a position at a Vilnius radio station. It was to prove
a disastrous union and he was fired for his lefty views. He
took another job in radio in Warsaw, though was out of town
on holiday when the outbreak of WWII was announced. The
next few years saw him lead a transient existence – from
escaping the clutches of the Red Army in Lithuania, to seek-
ing refuge in Romania, to working as a janitor in wartime
Warsaw. With the war over Milosz moved to Krakow, taking
up digs on (A-2) ul. Krupnicza 22. After that his story takes
on a bit of a murky look. Depending on which source you
believe he either relocated to Paris as a cultural attaché,
or was sent to Washington, in a similar role. Either way by
1970 he was a US citizen as well as a lecturer at Berkeley,
and in 1978 he received the Neustadt International Prize for
Literature. More success followed and two years later he
was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. Milosz returned
to Poland after the fall of the Iron Curtain, splitting his time
between Krakow and the US. He died in 2004 and is buried
in Krakow’s Skalka Church. His best known work remains
his 1953 masterpiece The Captive Mind, a challenging
tome which investigates the intellectual psyche.
Pozytywka (The Musical Box) D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 12,
tel. 012 430 64 82, www.pozytywka.pl. A stark, industrial
motif comes paired with classic dance music and red, blue and
green disco lights. It’s completely un-Kazimierz in design, but not in
atmosphere. A popular pre-club spot with projections, exhibitions
and even strawberries laid on at the bar. QOpen 08:30 - 01:30, Fri
08:30 - 04:00, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:30. PAW
Propaganda E-6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. 012 292 04 02.
The interior is an amazing museum of communist scrap:
from scruffy posters of Lenin to medals, mannequins and
chunky radios. Mad dog (Wściekły pies) - a lethal combination
of vodka, Tabasco and sweet syrup - is there to help your
foggy journey into socialist paradise. A must see. QOpen
11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. E
Ptasiek (Birdy) E-6, ul. Dajwór 3, tel. 012 431 03 41, www.
ptasiek.eu. It’s quite easy to overlook Ptasiek. Located in a part
of Kazimierz that no-one visits unless they’ve got their map upside
down, this is not the most high profile of venues. That doesn’t
mean you should overlook this new bar. Atmospheric no matter
what hour or how many people are present this is a modern effort
painted in dark plum and steel gray colours, with dim lighting kept
at power saving levels. Black and white pics line the walls, and a
series of green leather sofas act as comfortable perches for the
local arts crowd. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AIEW
Pub Wrega E-6, ul. Józefa 17, tel. 012 430 66 98, www.
wrega.pl. This place - often with all the atmosphere of a wake
- becomes boisterous and loud when there is live music on
(quite often), when local belt-em-out acts of varying quality get
the crowd going. At other times it can feel a bit lonely here, the
only facts worthy of note being the half-decent food on offer,
including four types of pierogi and an acceptable golonka for
20zł. Best place to sit is the garden if you can blag a table.
QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. AEBXSW
Kraków In Your Pocket
Singer Café D-6, ul. Estery 20, tel. 012 292 06 22. Once
representative of everything good about Kazimierz, Singer has
now been stagged, it’s late opening hours drawing in heavy
numbers of excited British gentlemen at weekends. It’s not
all bad news. At other times Singer still has much of the artsy
charisma exclusive to the district. Replete with tables fashioned
from antique Singer sewing machines, dusty windows and
frayed rugs this is an established roost of local intellectuals,
with the chipped wooden tables and clouds of smoke disap-
pearing from view the moment darkness descends. QOpen
09:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 05:00. AIW
Stajnia (The Stable) D-6, ul. Józefa 12, tel. 012 423 72
02, www.pubstajnia.pl. Stajnia is a large and unspectacular
bar occupying a corner of Kazimierz’ prettiest courtyard. At
night the music is deafening, and the staff appear to prefer to
sit and chat with their friends rather than penetrate the crowd
of middle-aged drinkers. Of note is a weird skeleton type thing
dressed in fighter pilot uniform, and left suspended from a
dark corner. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Thu 11:00 - 02:00, Fri,
Sat 11:00 - 04:00. PEBW
Szynk (The Tap Room) D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 0
695 41 50 66, www.szynk.pl. You may remember this
place as being a tiny one room affair with three tables to pick
from. The good news is they’ve moved next door to a larger
premises, while maintaining all that was great about their
previous operation: namely the best beer in Kazimierz. Amber
Ale from Browar Stary Kraków comes guaranteed to illuminate
your evening, while big plates of simple Polish grub act as a
prime mid-drink filler. Find the owners pottering around and
gossiping with customers amid interiors filled with village
detritus that ranges from trunks and wheels, to rusty keys
and brown bottles. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. X
Tajemniczy Ogród (The Secret Garden) D-6, Pl.
Nowy 9, tel. 012 430 67 76, www.tajemniczyogrod.pl.
Packed at nights, it appears the Secret Garden isn’t such a
big secret to Kraków’s night-owls. Wicker furniture, warm
earth tones and bits of trees pack the interior, adding a Blair
Witch vibe. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00.
PAIW
Warsztat (The Workshop) E-6, ul. Izaaka 3, tel.
012 430 14 51, www.warsztat.krakow.pl. A jumbled
crowd of students with sideburns and the new rich throng
this outstanding spot. The bar is constructed out of an old
piano, accordions and trumpets hang from the ceiling, and
every lampshade is plastered with sheets of music. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00. ABXW
W Rytmie D-6, ul. Józefa 2, tel. 0 512 48 32 27. Tiny little
place great for couples who want to sit in darkened corners
and schmooze the night away over cocktails. There are more
than 40 to choose from, and the staff appear to know their
stuff when it comes to shaking them. We like the basement
best, and think the unisex loos are worthy of a design award.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AX
Ye Olde Goat Pub E-6, ul. Ciemna 15 (Eden Hotel), tel.
012 430 65 65, www.hoteleden.pl. A labarynth of stone-
walled rooms decorated with 12-inch vinyl and a collection
of old sofas lends a nice and relaxed atmosphere to this
Eden Hotel-located bar. Aimed at a distinctly younger crowd,
this is a fairly decent place to knock back beer at any time,
especially during the weekend when live bands colour the
place with lots of healthy noise. All in all a smashing place to
turn the blood to alcohol, but do make sure you don’t bang
your head on the way out. QOpen 14:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AUBXW
Zbliżenia (The Close Relations) D-6, Pl. Nowy 7, tel.
012 430 01 38. Don’t touch anything, this place is falling
apart. Reopened after a refit Zblizenia are clearly the victims
of rogue builders, with one metal railing breaking off in our
hands. Decorated in caramel colours this place is a fashion-
ably kitsch drinking den, with low-slung sofas permanently
occupied by pin-up blondes. The music is rubbish, the food
looks better on the menu than on the plate, and the staff
vanish at critical drinking moments - nonetheless, this is one
of the better bars in Kazimierz, and remains fiercely popular.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAW
Jazz clubs
Boogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. 012 429 43 06,
www.boogiecafe.pl. Cream and black colour schemes,
lacquered surfaces and pictures of jazz legends combine
to create a seductive atmosphere in this, one of Kraków’s
top jazz bars. They’ve reopened following a brief refit,
though you’d never know any thing has changed. The
concer ts can be top-notch. Q Open 10:00 - 02:00.
PAUEXW
Drukarnia (The Printing House) J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska
1, tel. 012 656 65 60, www.drukarnia-podgorze.pl. Not
to be confused with the dull Drukarnia that was once found in
Kazimierz. This place is a stonking jazz den, and proof that
Podgórze is emerging as Kraków’s artistic heart. Complete
with printing paraphernalia and an artsy vibe this place
makes the trip over the river worth the journey in itself,
especially once the live acts take to the stage to entertain
the wannabe play wrights huddled over their crumpled
scripts. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00.
PAUIEXW
Harris Piano Jazz Bar C-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel.
012 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. Pass the giant
jazz musician, descend and emerge through the smoke into
what continues to serve as a stellar drinking den. The stout
wooden benches are packed most evenings giving Harris an
appealing glow. Serves as a great winter bolthole, though
in summer it takes on the dripping atmosphere of a sauna.
QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PEBW
Mile Stone Jazz Club J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6 (Qubus
Hotel Kraków), tel. 012 374 51 86, www.mile-stone.
pl. A large hotel bar sparingly decorated with wood floors
and large sofas. While it might have all the appeal of an
airport waiting room this place comes alive each weekend
when local musicians take to the stage to regale onlook-
ers with ever y thing from classic jazz to modern rock.
QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PAUEW
Od Nowa C-4, ul. Grodzka 50, tel. 0 666 37 39 38. The
tout themselves as a jazz bar, though were it not for the oc-
casional music night you’d struggle to distinguish this place
from the two hundred other cellar pubs knocking around. The
stairs are a serious menace if you’ve been tonking back the
lager all day. Q Open 10:00-02:00, From November Open
16:00-02:00. E
Piec’Ar t C-3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. 012 429 64 25,
w w w.piecar t.pl. The most of attracti ve of Kraków’s
ja z z d ens, an d as su ch a h on eyp ot for p omp ous,
preened jazz know i t alls. The vaul ted interiors make
for great acoustics and frequen tl y at tract th e big-
gest names in the ci ty, bu t stand warned abou t rife
snobbism of punters and staff alike. Q Open 13:00
- 02:00. PEX
NIGHTLIFE 99
Legends of Kraków
Obviously without the token Brit lad taking a leak
against a baroque church. Postcard perfect Kraków can
at times look like a fairytale town melded out of marzipan.
It’s only right therefore that the city has a fair few legends
attached to its ancient streets.
The pesky Tatars creep up regularly in local folklore,
and one thing that may have confused you in June would
have been the sight of a man sat on a wooden horse
dressed in the sort of apparel Santa might wear if he was
into his bling. The story behind this is straight forward.
Back in the 13th century the nearby town of Zwierzyniec
came under attack from the Tatar hordes. Having noticed
the gates to the town were open the Tatars charged along
the river bank looking forward to the prospect of rape
and pillage. In their way stood a small settlement for local
fishermen. But rather than scattering out of the way and
allowing the Tatars a clean run into Zwierzyniec the hardy
mariners stood their ground and drove the invaders away.
In the ensuing battle the Tatar leader was killed, and to
celebrate their unlikely victory the fishermen dressed one
of their lads in this Tatars finery and set off to Kraków
on his horse where they were rewarded with feasts and
money. Now each Corpus Christi it is traditional in Kraków
for a local from Zwierzyniec to make his way to Kraków
on top of a wooden horse surrounded by a mob waving
banners and blowing horns.
Kraków was once something of a hotbed of alchemy
and sorcery, the latter of which was even taught as part
of the syllabus at the Academy of Kraków. Possibly the
most famous of these sorcerers was Pan Twardowski,
a 16th century nobleman who entered a pact with Satan
in exchange for greater powers. Twardowski attempted
to outfox the devil by adding small print to his contract;
according to popular legend our protagonist made the
devil agree he could only take his soul to hell if he visited
Rome. Over the next few years Twardowski rose through
the ranks of the royal court, becoming a favourite of
King Zygmunt Augustus in the process. When the King’s
wife, Barbara Radziwiłłówna, died – some say murdered,
others say syphilis – the King sought spiritual help from
Twardowski, who allegedly summoned her spirit using
a magic mirror. To this day her shimmery apparition
is said to stalk the corridors and courtyards of Wawel.
But what of Twardowski. A keen intellectual he is said
to have written two books (an encyclopedia and a book
on the black arts), both of which were dictated by the
devil. Safe in the knowledge that he would never visit
the Italian capital Twardowski was confident he had
managed to outsmart the devil. More fool him. Taking
liquid refreshment in a local bar he suddenly found
himself swept away by the devil, realizing only too late
his hostelry of choice was named Rome. Falling back
on Plan B the quick thinking Twardowski started praying
to the Virgin Mary, causing Satan to drop him halfway
between the intended destination.
Nowadays Twardowski is said to be sentenced to an
eternity spent living on the moon, his only company being
a colleague he once charitably turned into a spider. It’s
one of Poland’s most enduring legends, and though we
can safely assume that some artistic license has been
used in shaping the story historical records suggest that
Twardowski was a real character, most likely a German
aristocrat who chose to settle in Kraków.
October - November 2008
100 NIGHTLIFE
Showtime C-3, Rynek Główny 28, tel. 012 421 47 14.
Tread along a red-carpeted stairwell under a row of illuminated
zebra heads before entering live music heaven. Jazz age nudes
painted by Lempicka line the walls, and the interiors are a
beginners guide to decadence: gilt frames, crimson seats and
wood beamed ceilings dating from centuries past. Concerts
take place each night, while an over 21 door policy discourages
Kraków’s tracksuit teens from setting their trainers inside.
QOpen 19:30 - 02:30, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 04:00. PEW
Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. Św.
Jana 15, tel. 012 422 84 72, www.stalowemagnolie.
com. Not dissimilar to a Parisien brother the interior is an
appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with
strings of red fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures.
Instruments cling to the walls and a team of waitresses in
evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The
live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced chan-
teuses crooning into the night to the appreciative applause
of sharply attired couples. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00. PAUE
Swing Resto & Club D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 9, tel. 0 510
86 13 41. Enter via a narrow bar area which then unfolds
into a large room decorated with huge prints of jazz heroes
tooting into trumpets. The clean polished design is pleas-
ingly different from Kraków’s other jazz offerings, while music
comes played at precisely the right volume to actually allow
conversation. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
PRUIEW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel. 012 431
03 33, www.thepianorouge.com. A pet project from the
same team behind Stalowe Magnolie, so expect much of the
same. The interior is a sensory delight, with exotic lamps
combinging with scatter cushions and velvet dashes. The
Parisian decadence is matched perfectly with live piano and
jazz performances. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 -
02:00. PAEBX
U Muniaka C-3, ul. Floriańska 3, tel. 012 423 12 05.
One of Kraków’s most talked-about jazz clubs can be found
at the bottom of a flight of stairs in a 14th-century cellar
just seconds away from St. Mary’s. A collection of intimate
rooms and genuinely charming staff await those looking to
either drink the night away in a pleasant atmosphere or to
have their eardrums rearranged courtesy of some of the best
live jazz in Poland. Concerts nightly from 21:30. QOpen
19:00 - 02:00. E
Wine
Vinoteka La Bodega C-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. 012
425 49 81, www.bodega.pl. A suitably sleek, cosmopolitan
wine bar with glossy fittings and tall stools. A wide range of
tapas is served to the backdrop of jazz and flamenco sounds.
The wine list is huge; if you find choosing wine a game of Rus-
sian roulette then the crisp-shirted staff know enough to point
you in the right direction. A shop and wine-tasting classes are
also available. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PABW
Casinos
Casinos Poland F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej 11 (Novotel
Kraków Bronowice Hotel), tel. 012 636 08 07, www.
casinospoland.pl. THE casino in Krakow can be found in
the Novotel Bronowice and features 7 American Roulette,
3 Black Jack and 3 Casino Poland Poker tables for you to
make or lose your fortune on. A bar and 30 slots also feature.
QOpen 11:00 - 08:00.
Kraków In Your Pocket
WHAT TO SEE 101
Essential Kraków
Untouched by the fier y fate shared by most Polish
Send a superb
cities at the end of WWII Kraków’s historic centre
has largely sur vived in its original form, and today
memory of Kraków
ranks as one of Europe’s great unspoiled cities. If
you are shor t on time here are the essential sites - a postcard containing a CD with
you really ought not to leave Kraków without seeing. over 200 photos of the city.
Each essential point has been bolded with a map
reference and more info on each can be found in our
what to see section. The places themselves can be
found by referring to our handy index in the rear of
our print guide.
Most essential sites can be seen while taking a walk
on what is known as the Royal Road which starts at
(D-2) Floriańska Gate and leads into the Market
Square (C-3 Rynek). Take a small diversion at the
star t to the Czar toryski Museum (C-2, ul. Św.
Jana 19) where you will find one of only five Da Vinci
paintings on display in the world - the Lady with
an Ermine. Getting back onto the Royal Route, the
Market Square (C-3 Rynek) was originally designed
in 1257, the year Kraków was awarded its charter
and the gridlike layout of the old town and its central
square has changed little in the years that have fol-
lowed. Measuring 200 x 200m, the Rynek ranks as
one of the largest medieval squares in Europe. It is
here that you will find two of Krakow’s defining build-
ings - The Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) and St. Mary’s
Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka). Available in souvenir stores and information
points around the Market Square.
Continuing down the Royal Route takes you along
(C-4) ul. Grodzka where you pass the church of
(C-4) St. Peter and Paul. Moving off to your right,
fans of the late Pope John Paul II should take a walk
around his former residence nowadays housing the
Archdiocesan Museum (C-5, ul. Kanonicza 19-21
). The walk concludes at (B/C-5) Wawel Castle,
the defining landmark of the city, and itself worthy of
several hours of exploration. For Poles this castle and
cathedral complex is a symbol of national strength
and patriotism; the ancient home of kings, and the
material embodiment of Polish resistance and culture.
Perched on top of a 50m-high rock on the edge of old
town, it is today remarkably intact and accessible to
visitors, though in an effort to preserve the exhibits
only a limited number of visitors are allowed to enter
each day.
Further on is (D/E-6) Kazimierz, the district that
housed Kraków’s Jews for some 500 years. In the last
decade it has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out
Jewish culture gradually reintroduced. Peeling façades
and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes,
each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness.
This is an area of Krakow that cannot be missed.
Crossing the river will take you to the (J-5) Podgórze
district, the site of the former Jewish Ghetto. Today
fragments of the Ghetto wall can be viewed, as can
the sight of Oskar Schindler’s factory (K-4, ul.
Lipowa 4).
If you can afford a little more time in the area make
sure to check out the incredible sights to be found
in the Wieliczka salt mines and take a tour in a
socialist-era Trabant of the only centrally-planned new
city outside of the Soviet Union - Nowa Huta.
October - November 2008
102 WHAT TO SEE
Churches
Holy Cross (Św. Krzyża) D-2, Pl. Św. Ducha. You may
think this church looks bland on the outside, but the fact that
the entrance is far below modern-day street level gives a
hint that it’s older than it looks: 14th century, to be precise.
Inside, the unusual and amazing central pillar resembles a
palm tree, with gothic ribs spreading across the vaults from
the top. The late medieval frescos in the choir were restored
by Wyspiański at the turn of the last century.
Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) C-4, ul. Sto-
larska 12. Built in 1250 by Dominican friars from Bologna, the
church lost many of its treasures when it was gutted by fire back
in 1850. Rebuilt in 1872 this huge structure is now an important
evangelical centre. The image of Our Lady of the Rosary, found
inside the Rosary chapel, is said to have healing powers.
Pauline Church (Kościół Paulinów) C-7, West end of
ul. Skałeczna, tel. 012 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl.
In 1079, King Bolesław the Bold accused the bishop of Kraków,
Stanisław Szczepański, of treason. According to legend, the
bishop was beheaded with the sword seen next to the altar and
then his body was chopped into pieces on a tree stump. After
the murder, the royal family fell under a curse. To appease the
spirit of the wronged bishop, the family built the Pauline Church
and made regular pilgrimages there to atone for the murder.
Szczepański was canonised in 1253. The crypt is packed tight
with important Poles including composer Karol Szymanowski and
painters Stanisław Wyspiański and Jacek Malczewski. Q Open
07:00 - 12:00, 14:00 - 19:00. No visiting during Mass please.
Reformed Franciscans’ B-2, ul. Reformacka 4, tel.
012 422 29 66, www.ofm.krakow.pl. This church was built
between 1666 and 1672 and reflects the modest furnishings
Kraków In Your Pocket
and architectures of this strict order. A specific microclimate
in the church’s vaults naturally mummifies the bodies in the
crypt. If you’d like to see the mummified bodies, hair and all,
you must ask for permission. Across the street are outdoor
Stations of the Cross. Q Open during mass only.
SS Peter & Paul’s C-4, ul. Grodzka, tel. 012 422 65
73, www.apostolowie.pl. Kraków’s premier Jesuit Church
was built in the early 1600s. The twelve disciples standing on
the gates outside are its most striking feature, although the
interior has been extensively renovated and the airy, austere
grandeur of this late Renaissance building is now evident.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sun 13:30 - 18:00.
St. Adalbert’s (Kościół Św. Wojciecha) C-3, Rynek
Główny, tel. 012 422 83 52. Kraków’s oldest church sits
not unlike a lost orphan at the southeast corner of the Cloth
Hall, a mad mix of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance
and Baroque architecture, all crammed together in a higgledy-
piggledy jumble of religious styles. The earliest parts of the
building date from at least the 11th century, pre-dating the
Rynek and explaining its seemingly random position within
it. St. Adalbert had his own cult following at the time, which
explains how it managed to survive. A look inside is well worth
it, not least because the floor sits some two metres below
the surface of the main square. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sun
14:00 - 18:00, Tue, Sat Open during mass only. No visiting
during mass please.
St. Andrew’s (Kościół Św. Andrzeja) C-4, ul. Grodzka
54, tel. 012 422 16 12. St. Andrew’s offers the finest ex-
amples of Romanesque architecture in Kraków. It was built
between 1079 and 1098 and has been a place of worship
for 900 years. The church was used as a refuge and fortress
during the first raid of Kraków by the Tartars. Walking inside
is therefore disappointing since most of the relics have been
looted. Baldassare Fontana remodelled the interior during
the mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century. Note the pulpit
which resembles a boat, typical of the Baroque style. Q
Open 09:00-12:00, 12:30-16:00.
St. Anne’s (Kościół Św. Anny) B-3, ul. Św. Anny 11, tel.
012 422 53 18. A leading example of Baroque ecclesiastical
architecture in Poland inspired by Italian architect Baldassare
Fontana and assisted by painters Carlo and Innocente Monti
and Karl Dankwart. Airy dome frescoes and soft angels every-
where offer a sense of light and redemption in comparison to
the dark Gothic style. Q Open 09:00-12:00, 16:00-19:00.
St. Barbara’s (Kościół Św. Barbary) C-3, Mały Rynek
8. While St. Mary’s traditionally served Kraków’s wealthy
German community during the middle ages, the more low-
key St. Barbara’s attracted the local Polish population. The
highlight is a Gothic 15th century sculpture found just inside
the entrance, and a neo-Gothic sculpture depicting the garden
of Gethsemane.
St. Bernard’s (Kościół Św. Bernardyna) C-5, ul.
Bernardyńska 2, tel. 012 422 16 50, www.bernar-
dyni.com.pl. With most eyes and cameras pointing towards
Wawel it’s easy to miss St Bernard’s, a church and monastery
founded St John of Capistrano, a nasty zealot with a particular
penchant for encouraging anti-Jewish pogroms. Constructed
in the mid-to-late 15th century St Bernard’s was meant as
a refuge for those wishing to atone for their sins and live in
accordance to the teachings of St Francis of Assisi. Fearing it
would be commandeered as a strategic base by the invading
Swedish troops the Poles burnt the church to the ground in
1655, later rebuilding it in its current baroque style. QOpen
06:00 - 19:00.
WHAT TO SEE 103
© solentgreen23
St. Catherine’s (Kościół Św. Katarzyny) D-7, ul.
Augustiańska 7, tel. 012 430 62 42, www.parafia.
augustianie.pl. Respected as one of the most beautiful
Gothic churches in Kraków. Most of its furnishings were lost in
the 19th century although the Baroque high altar from 1634
survives. The cloister built in the time of Kazimierz the Great
and decorated with Gothic murals and 17th century paintings
is worth seeing. Don’t miss the south porch decorated with
stonework and tracery. Q Open 10:00-15:00, Sat 10:00-
14:00, Sun 13:30-17:00, Closed From November.
St. Francis’ Basilica (Bazylika Św. Franciszka)
C-4, Pl. Wszystkich Świętych 5, tel. 012 422 53 76. Burnt
down numerous times, this 13th century basilica was the first
brick building in town and is now adorned with amazing Art
Nouveau windows and decorations. Krakowian Stanisław
Wyspiański made the eight stained-glass windows around
1895, including the controversial God the Father in the Act of
Creation. He covered the walls with colourful hippie-type pat-
terns and motifs inspired by nature, including huge dandelions.
QOpen 06:00 - 20:00. No visiting during Mass please.
October - November 2008
104 WHAT TO SEE
Tourist Information
City Tourist Information D-2, ul. Szpitalna 25,
tel. 012 432 01 10, www.biurofestiwalowe.pl. The
helpful official city tourist office, plonked in the Planty
near the station can help with accomodation, guided
tours and cultural information. Also at ul. Józefa 7 and
ul. Św. Jana 2. Q Open 09:00-18:00, From November
Open 09:00-17:00.
Jordan Tourist Information and Accommoda-
tion Centre D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. 012 422 60
91, www.it.jordan.pl. Located by the train and bus
stations. Jordan organize tours of Kraków and can book
accommodation. Full range of In Your Pocket titles also
on sale. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
Closed Sun.
Krakow Tourist Information Point C-3, ul.
Floriańska 6, tel. 012 378 94 48, www.seekrakow.
com.QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Małopolska Tourist Information C-3, Rynek
Główny 1/3 (Sukiennice), tel. 012 421 77 06,
www.mcit.pl. The regional tourist office, informa-
tion on the city and its surroundings. QOpen 09:00
- 19:00.
Tourist Information Office C-3, Pl. Mariacki 3, tel.
012 431 16 78, www.krakow-travel.com. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00.
Kraków In Your Pocket
WHAT TO SEE 105
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal Kar-
Monuments Museums o l Wo j t y ł a ( M u z e u m A r c h i d i e c e z j a l n e
Adam Mickiewicz C-3, Kraków is host to a plethora of museums. Opening hours Kardynała Karola Wojtyły) C-5, ul. Kanonicza
Rynek Główny. One of the and exhibitions that are continually closing for restoration 19-21, tel. 012 421 89 63, w w w.muzeumkra.
most impor tant statues in can strike visitors as wilfully eccentric, until one stops diecezja.pl. John Paul II li ved h ere - t wice. Once as
Poland, the large likeness of to consider how much patience and care - and how little Karol Woj tyla, the young priest wi th a penchant for ski-
the romantic poet and na- capital - is invested to maintain such high standards. It is in g (his Head skis are on sh ow) and later as a bish op,
tional hero Adam Mickiewicz for this reason that philanthropic visitors may even see in grander, adjacent rooms. The Archdiocesan doubles
(1798-1855) was originally fit to throw an extra złoty into the collection box. as a small bu t well-presen ted sh owcase of b eau ti ful
unveiled in 1898 to celebrate sacral ar t, som e da tin g back to th e 13 th cen tur y.
the centenar y of the great NEW Amon g th e i tems on display, you will find presen ts to
man’s birth, and, like so many Aquarium - Natural History Museum D-5, ul. Św. Se- His Holiness from h eads-of-state. All ver y nice, bu t
oth er symb ols of national bastiana 9, tel. 012 429 10 49, www.aquariumkrakow. th e exhibi tion will onl y hold th e attention of true papal
pride was destroyed by the oc- com. The man who brought us Kraków’s first hostel (Nathan, en thusiasts, and visi tors can expect to b e tailed by
cupying Germans during WWII. believe his name was) now brings us the city’s first aquarium. over-zealous curators. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat,
The statue that stands in the Sound like a crazy idea? Well, after a series of horrific bureau- Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Close d Mon. Admission 5/3zł.
Rynek today is a 1955 copy cratic holdups, the naysayers have finally been silenced with Guided tours 60zł.
of Teodor Rygier’s original, the opening of this 2000 square metre marvel occupying the
and is a popular and easily Rafal Dubiel lower two levels of the Natural History Museum. Visitors can Archeolog y Museum (Muzeum Archeolog-
recognisable meeting place. gaze over, or at eye-level with, a pool of black reef tip sharks, iczne) B-4, ul. Poselska 3, tel. 012 422 71 00,
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (who’s most famous work, Pan see the world’s longest (Papuan Monitor) and largest (komodo w w w.ma.krakow.pl. Fresh from a recen t b oost of
Tadeusz begins with the words ‘Lithuania, my country!’ dragon) lizards, as well as caimans, jellyfish, stingrays, even cash, Kraków’s one-time lacklustre Archaeolog y Mu-
and who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas monkeys, and the largest display of venomous reptiles in seum has been transformed into something actuall y
Mickevičius) never visited Kraków until 35 years after his Poland, for starters. The state-of-the-art attraction is geared wor th going to have a look at. As well as some fine
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down towards children and includes live presentations, educational examples of life from Małopolska during the Stone A ge
the road at Wawel. touch-point info screens and a Discovery Room with touch and a brilliant room dedicated to local clothing from
tanks. Unfortunately, the only room that is still mired in 70,000 BC to the 14th centur y, the museum houses
Dżok B-6, Bulwar Czerwieński. Dżok (Jock) was by all red-and-white tape is one of its most impressive featuring a p erman en t c oll e c ti on of ar tefa c ts from an ci en t
accounts a happy and no doubt philosophical little Polish the largest single aquarium in Poland - a 135,000 litre tank Eg ypt including some beau tiful shrouds, a number of
dog who was left tragically orphaned when his owner South American fish. Hang on to your original ticket which is intricatel y decorated sarcophagi and some mummified
had a hear t attack in his car in 1990 on the city’s busy valid for a discount at the reopening. Still think it’s crazy? If cats. The latter exhibi tion is best enjoyed wi th the aid
Grunwald Roundabout (Rondo Grunwaldzkie). Left behind history holds, in five years there’ll be 70 similar aquariums of an audio guide, available when you bu y your ticket.
when his master was taken away in an ambulance, Dżok in Kraków.Q From September 27 Open 09:00-20:00, Sat, Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, Thu 14:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun
waited patiently for his friend to return for a year before Sun 09:00-21:00 Admission for children ages 3 to 16 - 10zł, 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 7/5zł, Sun free
finally going to live with a lady who used to come and adults 22zł, students 17zł. PTAUG for permanent exhibi tions.
feed him. After the lady died in 1998 poor Dżok was
taken to a local dog hostel from where he escaped on
his second day of captivity and was swiftly run over by a
train. In 2001 a sculpture of Dżok was unveiled at Bulwar
Czer wieński close to where his original master passed
away. Th e work of local sculptor Bronisław Chromy
(1925-), a collection box in the back is for helping fellow
orphaned animals.
Grunwald Monument (Pomnik Grunwaldu) D-1, Pl.
Matejki. The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint
armies of Poland and Lithuania against the Teutonic Knights
on July 15, 1410, is considered to be one of the greatest
battles ever to take place in medieval Europe. A defining
moment in Polish history, the battle was immortalised in
Kraków with the unveiling of this weighty monument in front
of an estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary
of the event in 1910. Antoni Wiwulski’s (1877-1919) original
masterpiece was, not surprisingly, destroyed by the occupy-
ing Nazis during WWII and the copy that now stands in its
place dates from 1976, having been faithfully reproduced
using sketches and models of the original. At the top on his
horse is the Lithuanian king of Poland Władysław Jagiełło,
his sword pointing downwards in his right hand. At the front
is his cousin the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is
flanked on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint
army. The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen,
the Teutonic Order’s Grand Master, who lost his life during
the battle.
John Paul II C-7, West end of ul. Skałeczna, www.ska-
lka.paulini.pl. Designed by Czesław Dźwigaj, this outstand-
inding piece of sculpture was unveiled in November 2007, and
was raised in memory of the Polish Pope John Paul II, and in
particular of his groundbreaking visit to Skałka in 1979.
October - November 2008
106 WHAT TO SEE
Guided tours
Agnieszka Sababady , tel. 0 600 21 24 98, www.
krakowguide.pl. The history, culture and legends of
Kraków and the area with an English- and German-
speaking licenced guide and interpreter. Personal recom-
mendations available. Q Prices negotiable.
Antiquitatis Memoria Travel ul. Grota Roweck-
iego 27/43 (Łagiewniki), tel. 0 660 72 47 29, www.
memoria.travel.pl. If you’re seeking an unforgettable day
in Kraków, look no further than Antiquitatis Memoria. We
offer the best tours throughout this beautiful city and its
surrounding areas. When you use our service we guar-
antee that sightseeing will be an adventure.
Cool Tour Company C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. 012
430 20 34, www.cooltourcompany.com. Major
sights, history of Poland and a lot of fun - included in an
entertaining walk with professional guides. EXCLUDED:
boredom, yawning and staying on the beaten path. Meet
at Św. Wojciecha Church at 10:00 and 14:00. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Cracow City Tours D-1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. 012 421
13 33, www.cracowcitytours.com. The best value trip
to Auschwitz on offer. QOpen 07:15 - 20:15.
Cracow Tours C-3, Rynek Głowny 41, tel. 012 619 24
47, www.orbis.krakow.pl. Variety of tour packages includ-
ing city centre tours, Auschwitz, the salt mines and Zakopane.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Crazy Guides K-1, ul. Lublańska 22/9, tel. 0 500 09
12 00, www.crazyguides.com. COMMUNISM TOURS
OF NOWA HUTA DISTRICT & STEELWORKS. Experience
Stalin’s gift to Krakow! Witness one of the world’s only
centrally planned cities in a genuine Eastern Bloc Trabant
601. Call to book: +48(0) 500 09 12 00 or check www.
crazyguides.com.
Cruising Krakow Bike Tours C-2, ul. Basztowa
17, tel. 0 514 55 60 17, www.cruisingkrakow.com.
Bike tours around Kraków led by experienced native
English-speaking guides. No reservations required: tours
depart from the Mickiewicz monument on the Rynek at
11:00 everyday in September, and 12:00 noon from
October 1st until the end of the month, after which tours
are only by special arrangement. Cost 69zł. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00.
Eccentric Traveller Point C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel.
012 430 20 34, www.eccentric.pl. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00. Bike rental 8zł/hr, 35zł/5hrs, 45zł/day, 55zł/24hrs.
Out of town bike tours 99/89zł.
Madkraków C-3, ul. Grodzka 2, tel. 0 509 03 18 98,
www.madkrakow.com. Stag night professionals. Best
selection of 19 activities to choose from. Paintball, para-
chuting or vodka chess - you name it they’ve got it. Make
your choice and just go MAD. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
The Tourist Guide Association (Stowarzysze-
nie Przewodników Turystycznych - Kraków)
C-3, ul. Sienna 5, tel. 0 602 44 28 06, www.przewod-
nik-krakow.pl. They can help you find and book tours of
Kraków in English, Czech, French, Spanish, Portuguese,
Swedish, German, Polish, Russian, Slovak and Italian.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Bur gher House (Hippolit Museum) (Dom
Mieszczański (Kamienica Hipolitów)) C-3, Pl. Ma-
riacki 3, tel. 012 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. The Hippolit’s
were a merchant family who lived in this fine building around the
end of the 16th and beginning of the 17th centuries, although
the building dates back considerably further than that. The
inside has been transformed into a series of recreations of
typical Polish bourgeois houses from the 17th to the early 20th
century, and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture. Highly recommended. Q Open 10:00 -
17:30, Closed Mon, Tue, From November Open 09:00 - 16:00,
Thu 12:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 6/4zł, Wed free.
Celestat E-2, ul. Lubicz 16, tel. 012 429 37 91, www.mhk.
pl. About as odd as it gets, the History of the Fowler Brotherhood
celebrates what is essentially a male-only cult of hunters who
wear strange hats, worship a silver chicken and have their very
own king. In existence since 1565, the history of the Brotherhood
is laid out courtesy of a series of oil paintings, guns, teapots,
photographs and, inside the Sharpshooters’ Hall, a glass case
containing the mystical chicken that appears to be the focus of
all the fuss. Top marks for wackiness, it’s unlikely you’ll leave any
more enlightened as you were when you went in. Precisely what
rain was invented for. Q Open 09:30-17:00, Closed Mon, Sun,
From November Open 09:00-16:00, Thu 11:00-18:00, Closed
Mon, Sun. Admission 6/4zł, Wed free.
City Engineering Museum (Muzeum Inżynierii
Miejskiej) E-7, ul. Św. Wawrzyńca 15, tel. 012 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Signs that Polish museums
are finally catching up with the modern world, this charming
museum inside an old tram depot features three separate
exhibitions. The first two deal with the history of public
transport in Kraków and the development of the Polish
automotive industry in the form of a large collection of truly
wonderful vehicles, and the third is what’s called the Fun &
Science exhibition. Aimed primarily at young people, the latter
is a bizarre assortment of hands-on displays giving visitors
the opportunity to interact and learn about such things as
electricity and hydrostatics. Of particular note is a small
cucumber in a jar with lots of wires sticking out of it and at-
tached to a voltmeter. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6,50/4,50zł.
Czartoryski Museum (Muzeum Książąt Czartorys-
kich) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 19, tel. 012 422 55 66, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Its principle claim to fame is the pos-
session of Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine, one of
only three existant Da Vinci oil paintings and a sentimental
favourite for Poles, reproduced and hung in many a living
room. The museum also houses an impressive collection
of Etruscan, Greek, Roman and Egyptian relics, such as
falcon sarcophagi. Museum enthusiasts could spend many
happy hours here; only the paucity of English explanations
might frustrate. Q Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-16:00,
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. From
November opening hours are subject to change. Admission
10/5zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Ethnographical Museum (Muzeum Etnografic-
zne) D-7, Pl. Wolnica 1, tel. 012 430 55 63, www.
mek.krakow.pl. The permanent exhibit of this wonderful
museum will gratefully reopen November 1st. Founded
in 1911 by the teacher and folklore enthusiast Seweryn
Udziela (1857-1937) and located inside Kazimierz’s former
Town Hall, this cultural highlight usually gets overlooked by
tourists - wrongfully so. There’s not enough space here
to wax lyrical about the delights inside, including beautiful
recreations of 19th-century peasant houses, folk costumes,
some extraordinary examples of the so-called Nativity Cribs,
the breathtaking top floor collection of folk art and a rather
peculiar wooden bicycle. With many of the exhibits explained in
good English, all we need say is it does a highly commendable
job of promoting and explaining Polish folk culture, and can’t
come recommended enough. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission
8/4zł, Sun free.
Friends of the Fine Arts Society Gallery (To-
warzystwo Przyjaciół Sztuk Pięknych) B-2, Pl.
Szczepański 4, tel. 012 422 66 16, www.palac-sztuki.
krakow.pl. This gorgeous Art Nouveau building’s exterior
depicts the highs and lows of the creative process. The
interior is a setting for a regularly changing selection of
contemporary Polish art. QOpen 08:15 - 18:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00. Last entrance 15 minutes before closing.
Admission 7/4zł.
Geology Museum (Muzeum Geologiczne) C-4, ul.
Senacka 1-3, tel. 012 422 19 10, www.ing.pan.pl. One
tiny room given over to the provision of information about the
rocks and geological structures in the Kraków region. Featur-
ing a few glass cases full of rocks and crystals with Polish
explanations, it’s not exactly going to blow you away, but it’s
a nicest enough brief interlude all the same, and they’ve also
thoughtfully provided a brochure in English to help demystify
what is a specialist subject to say the least. QOpen 10:00
- 15:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun.
Admission 4/3zł. Groups by prior arrangement.
History Museum (Muzeum Historyczne) C-3, Rynek
Główny 35, tel. 012 619 23 00, www.mhk.pl. Established
in 1899, Kraków’s superb History Museum charts the trade,
culture, politics and daily life of the city from 1257 until the
end of the Second Republic in 1939. Unfortunately it’s time
for the 17th-century Pod Krzysztoforami (Under St. Christo-
pher) building it’s housed in to get a bit of a facelift. As such,
the permanent exhibition is now closed, however there is a
temporary exhibit that will remain open during the renovation.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission 8/6zł.
History of Photography Museum (Muzeum Historii
Fotografii im. Walerego Rzewuskiego) H-1, ul.
Józefitów 16, tel. 012 634 59 32, www.mhf.krakow.
pl. Allegedly Poland’s only museum dedicated exclusively
to photography, this tiny museum is a real gem for fans of
the art form and features some really interesting exhibits.
Laid out in several cupboard-size rooms that also play host
to a series of changing photographic exhibitions, find some
wonderful early stereoscopic photographs commemorating
the 1871 siege of Paris, an old darkroom, heaps of ancient
cameras and a nice collection of historical images of Kraków.
QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:30. Closed Mon,
Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission
5/3zł, Sun free.
Home Army Museum (Muzeum Armii Krajowej)
J-1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. 012 430 33 63, www.
muzeum-ak.krakow.pl. Documents Poland’s military resis-
tance towards foreign invaders over the last century, with a
particular focus on WWII. Uniforms, weapons, photographs
and maps are all presented, and there is a section devoted
to Poland’s most famous resistance heroes. A fascinating
collection, though sadly lacking in coherent English transla-
tions. Q Open 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sat, Sun. Sat,
Sun Open by prior arrangement. Admission 5zł. Groups over
10 people 3zł.
WHAT TO SEE 107
Pl. Szczepański
Spare a thought for Plac Szczepański (B-2), seen by
many as an irrelevant blip on the Kraków tourist radar.
Lined with townhouses it might be, but first impres-
sions aren’t kind. Having a name that sounds like a
mouthful of food doesn’t help. Neither does a car park
plonked in the middle, nor the garish plastic bins that
surround it. Recycling is a fine and noble thing, it’s just
a shame that city authorities have chosen to be so
indiscreet in their bin strategy.
So there you have Plac Szczepański, an ugly stain
on Kraków’s cloth. Think again. Dig deep and you’ll
find a square with a history as rich as any of its more
celebrated rivals. Quite literally. Centuries before any
concrete was laid down the square was actually a
cemetery, used to serve Kraków’s Jesuit community
who made use of two churches surrounding it. When
the order was disbanded their church buildings were
flattened. The gravestones too were ripped out,
but the bodies remained where they were. To this
day visitors unwittingly walk on top of the graves of
thousands, including the final resting place of Samuel
Łaszcz - a possible candidate for Poland’s naughtiest
man. A nobleman of Polish and Lithuanian descent
Łaszcz was sentenced to exile 236 times during his
life, as well as being the recipient of 37 sentences of
infamy. According to common legend the bad boy of
Polish aristocracy carried these sentences pinned to
his coat right up until his death in 1649.
The arrival of Napoleon’s army to Kraków in the
early 19th century lit a brief flicker of life into Plac
Szczepański. Turned into a parade ground plans were
mooted for a military monument glorifying the achieve-
ments of the generals troops. Those plans went out
the window the moment the Frenchman’s campaign hit
the skids on the plains of Russia and Plac Szczepański
soon reverted to functioning as a vegetable market.
Finally in the 1960s it took its present form, the local
authorities opting to plant a car park on the space.
No love has since been lost in the battle to return
the square to its former glory, but so far the drivers
remain victorious.
Thankfully if you face anyway but looking at the car
park you’ll find Kraków in her commonly known dazzling
form. Occupying the corner of the square and ul. Św.
Tomasza is possibly the area’s finest piece of archi-
tecture. As beautiful as it is it’s not half as historical
as the building it replaced; that was the home of not
only Jan Skrzynecki, one of the leaders of Poland’s
November Uprising (1830- 1831), but also the fabled
16th century alchemist Michał Sędziwój. In fact this
whole swathe of Kraków was known for its alchemy,
sorcery and weird goings on. In his superb tome on
the old town, historian Maciej Miezian attributes this
phenomena to the presence of not just the cemetery,
but also the town’s hangman. With all the corpses and
decapitated criminals in the vicinity it was no surprise
that so many weirdoes chose to settle here, includ-
ing, the history books claim, notorious practitioners
of the black arts such as the Englishmen John Kelley
and Edward Dee.
October - November 2008
108 WHAT TO SEE
St. Mary’s Basilica
St. Mary’s Basilica (Bazylika Mariacka) C-3,
Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. 012 422 05 21, www.bazylika-
mariacka.krakow.pl. Tartar invasions of the 13th century
left the original church in a heap of ruins and construction
began on St. Mary’s using the existing foundations. It
doesn’t matter how many times you see it, the altar-
piece, stained glass windows of the nave, and the blue,
starred ceiling will take your breath away. The magnificent
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work
of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit
Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the
apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings
by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Several local legends
are attached to St. Mary’s. The architect of the smaller
tower murdered his brother (thw architect of the taller),
apparently jealous that his structure was shorter and less
elaborate. Racked with guilt he then committed suicide by
throwing himself off the roof of the cathedral. Nowadays
the taller tower is home to one of Kraków’s most enduring
traditions. The bugle call played on the turn of every hour
apparently takes its origins from an event in 1241. Having
spotted invading Tartar forces on the horizon, a lone fire-
man started playing his trumpet to alert the habitants of
Kraków. He was shot with an arrow in his neck, abruptly
cutting off the tune mid-melody, but the town was roused
from its sleep and defended itself. In honour of this event,
seven local firemen now have task of tooting the tune
every hour. The first written mention of the tradition dates
back to 1392, though a local magazine recently claimed
the whole custom was invented by an American in 1929.
QOpen 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Józef Mehoffer House (Dom Józefa Mehoffera) A-2, ul.
Krupnicza 26, tel. 012 421 11 43, www.muzeum.krakow.pl.
Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 19th century’s artistic elite.
This, his house, was where the artists of the Młoda Polska (Young
Poland) movement often met - specifically in the drawing room of
this elegant home, which is filled with Art Deco to impressionist-era
art. Q November opening hours not known at the press time.
Admission 4-6/2-4zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Jagiellonian University Museum (Muzeum Uniwer-
sytetu Jagiellońskiego) B-3, ul. Jagiellońska 15, tel.
012 422 05 49, www.uj.edu.pl/muzeum. The Jagiellonian
University is the third oldest university in Europe, founded by King
Kazimierz the Great in 1364. Its picturesque courtyard ranks as
one of the most beautiful of the city. An amiable English-speaking
guide will take you on a 45-minute tour of the Treasury, Assembly
Hall, Library and Common Room. Along the way, you will see the
oldest surviving globe to depict the Americas. It was in 1492
that astronomer Nicolas Copernicus began his studies at the
Jagiellonian, developing his own theories about which way the
world spins. You need to call or visit in advance to book a place
on the tour. Q Open 10:00-15:00, Tue, Thu 10:00-18:00, Sat
10:00-14:00, Closed Sun. From November Open 10:00-15:00,
Thu 10:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun. Last entrance
40 minutes before closing. Admission 12-16/6-12zł.
Manggha B-6, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. 012 267 27 03,
www.manggha.krakow.pl. The Museum of Japanese Art &
Technology houses the National Museum’s Japanese artefacts,
consisting mostly of the fabulous 6,500-item collection of local
legend Feliks Jasieński (1861-1929). Exhibits include battlesuits
adorned with face masks (with suspiciously Polish-looking
moustaches), antiques, delicate porcelain, incredibly beautiful
waterpaints and comic-like woodcut prints. In the centre there’s
Kraków In Your Pocket
a collection of sometimes hilariously translated Japanese comics
(which must be read right to left). The building was commenced
by film director Andrzej Wajda who saw the Jasieński collection
exhibited during WWII. Upon winning the Kyoto city prize in 1987,
he donated the US$340,000 grant to the construction of the
museum. The café terrace has a great view over to Wawel Castle.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 15/10zł, family ticket 25zł, group ticket
60zł, Tue free. Guided tours 100zł.
Pharmacy Museum (Muzeum Farmacji) C-2, ul.
Floriańska 25, tel. 012 421 92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.
pl. Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Kraków’s
brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out on several floors and
includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions
of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars
and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional herbal
medicines. Also of interest is the small exhibit dedicated to the
extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz. QOpen
10:00 - 14:30, Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance
45 minutes before closing. Admission 7/4zł.
Polish Aviation Museum (Muzeum Lotnictwa Pol-
skiego) Al. Jana Pawła II 39 (Prądnik Czerwony), tel. 012
642 87 00, www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Near a training area
for would-be tractor drivers (make sure you look both ways
before leaving), this museum boasts pre-war and modern Polish
aeroplanes and helicopters. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Mon 09:00-
15:30, Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00, From November Open 09:00-
16:00, Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 7/5zł, Mon free.
Silesian House (Dom Śląski) H-1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel.
012 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Officially called the Museum
of the Struggle and Martyrdom of the Polish nation, this building
was turned into the Gestapo headquarters during WWII. Originally
it was used for cold storage. Chillingly, there are still inscriptions
written by the prisoners on the cellar walls. Q Open 10:00-
17:30, Closed Mon, Sun, From November Open 09:00-16:00,
Wed 10:00-17:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission free. Guided tours 100zł.
The National Museum in Kraków (Muzeum Narodowe
w Krakowie) H-3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. 012 295 55 00, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. Far from being the shoeless peasants many
cynical historians would have us believe, previous generations of
Poles have in actual fact excelled in the arts. The superb National
Museum of Art in Kraków showcases many such examples of their
work. As well as a number of world-class temporary shows, the
museum also houses fine collections of Polish fine and applied
arts, and gives its entire top floor over to the permanent 20th-
century Polish Art exhibition, a truly awesome collection that any
gallery would be more than proud of owning. The museum also
houses a good bookshop and a small café. Q Open 10:00-18:00,
Sun 10:00-16:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. From November opening hours are subject to change.
Admission 6-20/3-10zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
Wyspiański Museum (Muzeum Wyspiańskiego)
B-2, ul. Szczepańska 11, tel. 012 422 70 21, www.
muzeum.krakow.pl. After a year of renovations the
Wyspiański museum has unbolted their doors and re-opened
for business. Dedicated to the beautiful works of Stanislaw
Wyspiański (1869-1907), Kraków’s foremost Art Nouveau art-
ist. Of particular interest are the sketches and paintings of his
children, the designs for the stained glass windows of the St.
Francis Basilica and the model of Wawel Hill transformed into
a Polish Acropolis. Q Open 10:00-18:00, Sun 10:00-16:00,
Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
From November opening hours are subject to change. Admis-
sion 6-8/3-4zł, Sun free for permanent exhibitions.
WHAT TO SEE 109
Tyskie brewery tour
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Książęce)
ul. Mikołowska 5, Tychy, tel. 032 327 84 30, www.
tyskiemuzeumpiwowarstwa.pl. The originally German-
owned brewery, now known as Tyskie Browary Książęce,
in the small town of Tychy some 10km south of Katowice
has been brewing beer continuously for over 375 years.
The makers of Tyskie Gronie, Poland’s best selling beer,
Tyskie Browary Książęce’s (or just Tyskie) impressive
ensemble of buildings that also includes a superb little
museum is open to the public for tours. Taking about
2.5 hours and led by a friendly and informative, English-
speaking guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through
the entire brewing process. Starting in the immaculately
preserved Old Brewery, a masterpiece of original decora-
tive tiles and old copper vats installed during WWI that
have had modern brewing equipment cleverly put inside
them, the tour follows the brewing process from start
to finish and also offers a fascinating insight into the
history of the factory. Highlights include the so-called
Bachelors’ Quarters and the saucy tales that go with
them, a glimpse of the brewery’s own railway station
and, across the road, a look inside the fabulous-smelling
bottling plant. Now producing over 5,000,000 hectolitres
of booze annually (or to put it another way, if you put all
that beer into half litre bottles and laid them end to end
you’d have a line of beer 50,000km long), the rise of the
brewery is recorded inside the superb Brewery Museum,
complete with interactive displays in English and housed
inside an old red brick Protestant, neo-Gothic church built
in 1902. Tours are free, must be booked in advance, and
yes, there’s a tasting session at the end. The museum
building also houses the local City Museum, which is also
well worth having a look inside if you’ve got the time. To
get there from Katowice by public transport, take a local
train to Tychy. The brewery is a short walk southeast
from the train station. QOpen , Mon 14:00 - 18:00, Tue
10:00 - 14:00, Wed 12:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Visitors
must be over 18 and should call in advance to book a
place on the tour. Admission free.
Sco
October - November 2008
110 WAWEL
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top of
the hill of the same name immediately south of the old
town, is by far the most important collection of buildings in
Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope, self-rule and not
least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers a uniquely Polish
version of Buckingham Palace and Westminster Abbey
rolled into one. A gorgeous assortment of predominantly
Romanesque, Renaissance and Gothic architecture dating
from around the 14th century onwards, visiting Kraków
and not seeing Wawel is like playing tennis without a ball.
Even for those who know or care little about the country’s
past, Poland’s ancient seat of royalty contains a vast
wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified walls
that can’t fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle and the
Cathedral, of which the former contains most, but by no
means all of the exhibitions, Wawel’s must-see highlights
include the Cathedral’s mind-boggling interior, a tantalis-
ing glimpse of Poland’s very own Crown Jewels inside
the Crown Treasury &amp; Armoury and, on a fine day, a
leisurely stroll around its courtyards and gardens. A full
tour of Wawel, which is hard work but comes with its own
rewards, can take an entire day.
Royal Castle (Zamek Królewski) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel.
012 422 51 55 ext. 219, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Wawel’s
prominence as a centre of political power predates the building
of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence shows
that Wawel Hill was being used a fortified castle before Poland’s
first ruler, Miesco I (circa 965-992) chose Wawel as one of his
official residences. The first Polish king, the teenage Władysław
the Short (1306-1333), was crowned in Wawel Cathedral
on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would see a
further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th century.
All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all of
them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Poland’s
subsequent decline saw the Castle fall into a state of disrepair.
The occupying Austrians used it as a military hospital and
even went so far as to demolish several buildings including
a number of churches on the site. The 20th century saw the
Castle change hands on a number of occasions, with the huge
ongoing renovation works that continue to this day being halted
for a number of reasons, most famously when the Castle was
used as the headquarters of the Nazi Governor General, Hans
Frank during the German occupation of the city during WWII.
Today’s Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles including
Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance and Baroque. The inner
courtyard with its delightful colonnades is a true architectural
masterpiece, and the treasures it contains within do much to
contribute to Kraków’s rightful status as a truly world-class
city. Q Open 09:30-17:00, Mon 09:00-13:00, Sat, Sun
11:00-18:00, From November Open 09:30-16:00, Closed Mon,
Sun. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 8-20zł.
From November free.
Good to know
Not surprisingly, visitor numbers are restricted, and even
with this precaution in place Wawel can still feel horribly
overcrowded. To guarantee entry as well as avoiding the
need to stand in long queues, call the box office on tel.
012 422 16 97 to reserve tickets for the exhibitions you
want to see at least one day before you visit. Tickets
must be collected from the Tourist Service Office (Biuro
Obsługi Turystów) in the southwestern corner of the com-
plex at least 30 minutes before your reserved tour time.
Foreign language guides are available on request.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Cathedral (Katedra) B-5, Wawel 3, tel. 012 429 33
27, www.wawel.krakow.pl. The scene of the crowning of
almost every Polish king and queen throughout history, the
current Wawel Cathedral is the third to be built on the site.
The first cathedral was built of wood, probably around 1020,
but certainly after the founding of the Bishopric of Kraków
in 1000AD. Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second
cathedral that subsequently burnt down again. The current
building was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of
Poland’s first king to be crowned at Wawel, Władysław the
Short (aka. Władysław the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who
was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor
in 1319. Considered the most important single building in
Poland, Wawel’s extraordinary Cathedral contains much
that is original, although many glorious additions have been
made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning as that
of its cousin St. Mary’s in the Rynek, the interior of Wawel
Cathedral more than makes up for its visual shortcomings
thanks to the sheer amount of history packed inside. At its
centre is the imposing tomb of the former Bishop of Kraków,
St. Stanisław (1030-1079), a suitably grand monument dedi-
cated to the controversial cleric after whom the Cathedral
is dedicated. Boasting 18 chapels, all of them about as
ostentatious as you’re ever likely to see, of particular inter-
est is the 15th-century Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to
the right as you enter and featuring some wonderful Russian
murals as well as Veit Stoss’ 1492 marble sarcophagus to
Kazimierz IV. The Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric
downstairs diversion. This is the final resting place of many
great Poles, including ten of the county’s former kings and
their wives as well as other civic and military heroes such
as the poet Adam Mickiewicz and Poland’s military strong-
man Józef Piłsudki. At the top of a gruelling wooden series
of staircases is the vast, 11 tonne St. Zygmunt Bell. Cast
in 1520, the bell can supposedly be heard 50km away.
QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:30 - 16:00. Cathedral Mu-
seum Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission free. Entrance to The Royal Tombs, the Zygmunt
Bell and Cathedral Museum 10/5zł.
Tickets & Tourist Information
B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. 012 422 51 55, www.wawel.
krakow.pl. Located in the far southwestern part of the
Wawel Complex, this should be your first stop when tour-
ing Wawel. As well as selling tickets, the Tourist Service
Office gives away useful free Wawel maps. There’s also
small post office, gift shop and a decent café inside the
same building. Q Open 09:00-17:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-
18:00, From November Open 09:00-16:00.
Eat in Wawel
Na Wawelu B-5, Wzgórze Wawelskie 9, tel. 012 421
19 15, www.nawawelu.pl. Kraków‘s ultimate tourist
trap, or just a much under-rated café and restaurant in the
best location on earth? You decide as you see fit, but much
will depend on the service, which varies from very good to
completely disinterested. The food is definitely overpriced
for what is standard international fare, but you can have a
reasonable coffee, beer or juice here, and let‘s face it, for a
location like this you will hardly be expecting any bargains.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. (18-75zł). PTAUBXW
Cathedral Museum (Muzeum Katerdralne) B-5, Wawel
2, tel. 012 429 33 27, www.wawel.krakow.pl. Opened in 1978
by Karol Wojtyła just before he became Pope John Paul II, the fabu-
lous Cathedral Museum features a wealth of religious and secular
items dating from the 13th century onwards, all related to the ups
and downs of the Cathedral next door. Among its most valuable pos-
sessions is the sword deliberately snapped into three pieces at the
funeral of the Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) the last of
the Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes
and royal insignias too boot. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Admission to The Royal
Tombs, the Zygmunt Bell and Cathedral Museum 10/5zł.
Crown Treasury & Armoury (Skarbiec Koronny i Zbro-
jownia) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. 012 422 51 55, www.wawel.
krakow.pl. Containing among many splendid treats Poland’s very
own equivalent of the Crown Jewels, the Crown Treasury & Armoury
provides a delightful excursion into the world of the sumptuous,
extravagant and the just plain violent. To the left, the Crown Treasury
features several glass cases of golden and bejewelled goblets, plat-
ters, coins and other wonders, of which the Szczerbiec, the country’s
original coronation sword, is the ultimate highlight. To the right the
Armoury contains a frightening array of spiky pikes, wonderment
of weapons including some exceedingly swanky crossbows, and
in the cellar a collection of cannons and replicas of the banners
captured at the Battle of Grunwald. Q Open 09:30-17:00, Sat, Sun
11:00-18:00, Closed Mon, From November Open 09:30-16:00, Sun
10:00-16:00, Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing.
Admission 15/8zł. From November free.
Dragon’s Den (Smok) B-5, Western, low end of Wawel Hill,
www.wawel.krakow.pl. The spectacular limestone formation
that is Wawel Hill is believed to have been formed about 25 million
years ago. Not the solid piece of rock it appears to be, the inside
is full of eerie caves of which one gave birth to a legend. This par-
ticular cave was home to a dragon, Smok Wawelski, or the Wawel
Dragon, a particularly nasty creature who liked nothing more than
to spend his leisure time feasting on local sheep and having his
way with the local young ladies. Sent to dispatch the beast was,
so at least one of the stories goes, none other than Krak, the
legendary founder of the city. The story goes that by exploiting
the dragon’s penchant for farm animals Krak fooled Smok into
eating a sheep laced with tar and sulphur, causing the poor thing
to explode. Smok Wawelski’s cave later became a famous tavern
and brothel during medieval times and is now open for the benefit
of terrifying local school children. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. From
November Closed. Admission 3zł. Tickets from the machine by
the entrance, make sure you have change.
State Rooms & Royal Private Apartments (Repr-
ezentacyjne Komnaty & Prywatne Apartamenty
Królewskie) B-5, Wawel Hill, tel. 012 422 51 55, www.
wawel.krakow.pl. Two collections in one, of which the latter is
only accessible on a specially conducted guided tour, these are
the rooms in which the royals once lived and did their entertaining.
WAWEL 111
The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on forever, and are full
of luscious oil paintings, intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries,
some truly extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking Bird
Room. Highlights include the eerie Royal Audience Hall, complete
with 30 wooden representations of former Kraków residents’
heads on the coffered ceiling and the Hall of Deputies, still with
an original throne that really brings the majesty of Poland’s past
to life. The Royal Private Apartments are, as one would expect,
stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and Renaissance details,
rooms include the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with
original Renaissance larch wood ceiling and the 15th-century tap-
estry, Story of the Knight with the Swan, Wawel’s oldest surviving
example of the art form, and the charmingly named Hen’s Foot,
two small rooms inside the 14th-century Belvedere Tower. What
these rooms were originally used for is anyone’s guess, but the
view from the windows is well worth the visit. Q Open 09:30-
17:00, Mon 09:30-13:00, Sat, Sun 11:00-18:00, Royal Private
Apartments Closed Mon. From November Open 09:30-16:00,
Sun 10:00-16:00, Closed Mon. Royal Private Apartments Closed
Mon, Sun. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission to
State Rooms 15/8zł, Mon free, Royal Private Apartments 20/15zł
(guide included). From November free.
Wyspiański’s Wawel
It’s already a century since
Kraków’s crea ti ve genius
Stanisław Wyspiański passed
away, yet his presence remains
almost everywhere you look in
the city. As well as his tireless
efforts for the city and Poland
in general as a painter, play-
wright, poet and more besides,
Stanisław Wyspiański also
found time to apply his talents
to the field of architecture. Fas-
cinated with Wawel since child-
hood, Wyspiański took advan- Sco
tage of the occupying Austrian army’s plans to move their
barracks out of Wawel to completely redesign the complex.
His so-called Wawel-Akropolis, designed over the winter of
1904-1905 with the help of the Polish architect Władysław
Ekielski (1855-1927), sought to radically alter Wawel with
the addition of scores of new buildings, towers, chapels
and even an amphitheatre, the finished effect somehow
managing to recreate a vision of a once mighty Poland.
Wyspiański’s failing health and subsequent death two
years later meant that his greatest project unfortunately
never left the drawing board. Using the original designs, a
fabulous model of Wawel-Akropolis was made in the early
1980s and is on permanent display in the Wawel Room
inside the city’s superb Wyspiański Museum.
October - November 2008
112 KAZIMIERZ
Made in Poland
Like the Czech Skoda and the East German Trabant the Pol-
ish ‘Maluch’ has served several purposes during its lifetime;
a Godsend for families behind the iron curtain, source of
merriment for smirking foreigners and now, as a cult icon for
commie nostalgists. Through the years Polish exports have
won world acclaim, from expertly cut glass to dangerously
delicious vodka, so this flimsy tin deathtrap on wheels is
something of an unlikely hero of Polish engineering.
Manufactured between 1973 and 2000 in factories in
Bielsko-Biała and Tychy the car was produced under the
Italian Fiat license, with its official title being the Polish
Fiat 126p. Its diminutive size saw it awarded the common
moniker of Maluch (little one), a name that was so widely
used that the manufacturers officially re-christened the
brand in 1997. When the first one rolled off the production
belt in June 1973 it was priced at 69,000 (approximately
three times the average annual wage), and became the first
popular family car in Poland. Throughout communist times
the car could only be purchased through joining a waiting
list, which at times ran to a couple of years, though diligent
workers would often be rewarded with special vouchers
allowing them to jump the queue.
By the time production came to a halt in 2000 over 3.2 mil-
lion had seen action on the roads of Poland. The conveyor
belts may have ground to a halt but the car still boasts a
remarkable staying power, and you’ll still find many zipping
and weaving between traffic, usually driven by fearless
pizza delivery boys showing an alarming commitment to
delivering their goods in record time.
Kraków In Your Pocket
KAZIMIERZ 113
Kazimierz is the district that housed Kraków’s Jews for over
500 years. In the last decade it has been rediscovered,
and its hollowed-out Jewish culture gradually reintroduced.
Famous for its associations with Schindler and Spielberg,
there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries
and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and
spanners, you’ll find the heart of Krakow’s artsy character.
Peeling façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky
cafes, each one effecting an air of pre-war timelessness.
Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities this is an essential
point of interest to any visitor.
Hungarian restaurant
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335 when
it was officially founded as an island town by King Kazimierz
the Great. Unlike Kraków, which was largely populated by
Germans, Kazimierz was dominated by Poles. It was not
until 1495 when Jews were expelled from Kraków that
they started to arrive to Kazimierz in force. Awarded its
Magdeburg Rights, which allowed markets to held in what
is now Pl. Wolnica, Kazimierz prospered and it is recorded
as being one of the most influential Polish towns during the
middle ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was flourishing
and numerous synagogues had been constructed. Alas,
Kazimierz was about to run out of luck. In 1651 the area was
hit by the plague, then four years later ransacked and ruined
by the Swedish invaders. Famine, floods and anti-Jewish
riots followed in quick succession, and it wasn’t long till a
mass migration to Warsaw began, leaving the once vibrant
Kazimerz a broken shell. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Breakfast from 10:00 - 12:00
Lunch Time Special 12:00 - 16:00
In 1796 Kraków came under Austrian control, and four years
later Kazimierz was incorporated into Kraków. It was to
Kraków, ul. Meiselsa 5
signal the areas rebirth. The governing Austrians ordered tel. 12 430 64 04, www.delibar.pl
Kraków’s Jews to resettle in Kazimierz, and the area was
slowly redeveloped; timber houses were banned, streets
were cobbled and walls that once ringed Kazimierz demol- areas first Jewish bookstore, or take a look at Szeroka spotted him loitering around one of the soldiers challenged
ished. Kazimierz was finally going places; in 1857 the first 6 (now Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant). The building Isaac as to his intentions. Isaac came clean, only for the
gas lamps lit up the streets, a tram depot added in 1888 formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse that soldier to scoff words to the effect of ‘You’re an idiot! I’ve
and in 1905 a power station. By 1910 the Jewish population gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor collapsed been having dreams all my life about a Kraków Jew called
stood at 32,000, a figure that was to nearly double during and ten women drowned. Modern day Szeroka has a raft of Isaac who has treasure hidden under his stove. But I’m not
the inter-war years, and a rich cultural life arose around them. restaurants to pick from, though you can’t do much better stupid enough to go to Kraków, especially seeing that every
But this was to change with the outbreak of WWII, and the than visting Rubinstein at number 12. It’s named so for a second Jew is called Isaac’. You can guess the rest. The
Nazis monstrous ideas of racial superiority. Approximately reason. ‘Queen of Cosmetics’ Helena Rubinstein was born moment Isaac returned home he pulled the stove down
three to five thousand of Kraków’s Jews survived the horror next door at number 14. and discovered a wealth of riches, making him the richest
of the Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar man in Kazimierz.
Schindler. Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in Take time out to explore the synagogues and bars before veer-
Kraków in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon van- ing to the right and onto ulica Józefa. The street actually takes But Kazimierz is not Jewish exclusive. Take for example
ished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war communist its name not after Joseph of Bible fame, but the Habsburg the stunning Corpus Christi Church on ul. Bożego Ciała.
authorities sparked waves of emigration to Israel, and by Emperor Joseph II who stayed on this street while touring Completed in 1405 the 70 metre tower dominates the
the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all but disappeared. The his nearly conquered territories. Find the High Synagogue at horizon, and work through the ages has seen a slew of
fall of communism in 1989 sparked new hope. Kazimierz number 38, so called because the prayer room was located intricate details added to both the exteriors and interiors.
by this time had become a bandit suburb, the sort of place on the first floor. Looted during WWII the synagogue housed Try and track down the tiny church prison in which sinners
you’d only visit with military backup. But investment began the Historic Monuments Preservation Studio in the post-war who had broken the sixth commandment would be held
trickling in and the areas decline was reversed; 1988 saw years, only returning to its intented function in the 1990s. It’s and subjected to public ridicule. Also of note is a 15th
the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years later the also on Józefa you’ll find what many regard to be Kraków’s centur y painting, the Madonna Terribilis Daemonibus.
Judaica Foundation was opened. That was also the year most picturesque courtyard. Accessed via an archway the Used in exorcisms for the last five centuries the canvas is
Spielberg arrived to film Schindler’s List, a film that would cobbled courtyard at number 12 is instantly recognizable reputed to have warded off a hundred thousand demons.
put Kazimierz on the world map and irrevocably change from Spielberg’s Schindler’s List. Sticking to the ecclesiastical theme pop by the church of
its fortunes. Today a visit to Kazimierz ranks just as high St. Michael the Archangel and St. Stanislaus the Bishop
on itineraries as a trip to Wawel, illustrating the historical While on your Kazimierz safari do put aside time to visit Martyr. It’s right by the altar that Stanislaus, the Bishop
importance and public regard the area has. the Isaac Synagogue, whose restored interiors now house of of Szczepanów was murdered and then quartered at the
a permanent exhibition titled ‘In memory of Polish Jews’. whim of King Bolesław the Bold. Stansilaus was later beati-
To get a feel for the area start your tour of Kazimerz at the In 1939 a member of the synagogue committee was ex- fied, becoming the patron saint of Poland, and it became
top of Szeroka, coming from ulica Miodowa. Here you’ll find ecuted inside these halls after refusing to set fire to it. The a tradition for Polish Kings to make the pilgrimage from
the restaurant Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Long ago in synagogue is also the source of an enchanting legend. It Wawel to this church in a bid to compensate for the sins
Kazimierz). Disguised to look like a row of shop fronts the relates to the founder, Isaac, a devout but impoverished Jew of Bolesław. A stone allegedly splattered with the blood
doorways come adorned with traders names splashed on who once had a dream telling him if he went to Prague he of the saint can be viewed close by. Ghouls will also to be
them: Holzer, Weinberg, Nowak. It’s not hard to feel the would discover great treasures buried by a bridge. Following delighted to learn of the crypt, one of the most high profile
ghosts of the past as you walk down the Austrian cobbles. his instincts he set off to Prague, only to find the bridge he in Kraków. It’s here you’ll find the bodies of local heroes
Next door swat up on your literature by visiting Jarden, the had dreamt of surrounded by garrison of soldiers. Having Czesław Miłosz and Stanisław Wyspiański.
October - November 2008
114 KAZIMIERZ
Plac Nowy
D-6. While Kraków’s main square, Rynek Główny, makes
all the postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kaz-
imierz that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Kraków
sub-culture. Lacking the glory of the old town Plac Nowy
is, if anything, something of an eyesore - a collection of
unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled
with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons
flapping in the skies. If you want something completely
different from old town, here it is.
Plac Nowy started assuming its shape in 1808 having
been incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, and its Jewish connections are highlighted by local
insistence on often referring to it as Plac Żydowski (Jewish
Square). For over 200 hundred years it has served as a
market place with its central landmark, the round market
building, being added in 1900. The rotunda was leased to
the Jewish community in 1927 from whereon it served as
ritual slaughterhouse for poultry right up until Nazi occupa-
tion. Following the war it resumed its role as the centre of
the market around it, a function it still carries today.
Apparently it’s the only place in Kraków where you can pur-
chase horsemeat, though savages without a taste for the
refined will instead be found lining up outside the dozen or so
hole-in-the-wall fast food hatches that operate from the ro-
tunda. Most legendary of these is Endzior, a rite-of-passage for
any first time visitors to Kazimierz. Placing their order through
the slit-like window you’ll find everyone from police blokes
ignoring emergency calls on their walkie-talkies, to stick-thin
party girls getting their weeks worth of calories; Kazimierz
without Endzior is like Rome without a coliseum.
The gourmet feasting doesn’t stop there: each May the
square hosts the annual Soup Festival, a culinary stand-off
between the local restaurants. Granted, it’s not a patch on
Kraków’s annual Sausage Dog Parade, but it’s still novel
enough for our appreciation. Details about this years soup
extravaganza were sketchy at press time, so for more info
get in touch with teatrkto@wp.pl in the coming weeks.
Surrounding the Okrąglak (rotunda) are some 310 trad-
ing stalls (with 33 more in the smaller square around
the corner), and you’ll find something going on daily from
05:30 till early afternoon. Although the only things we’ve
ever seen on sale are rusting bits of junk, plastic shoes
and bottles of aftershave hidden away in suitcases, we
are assured there is more to this market than useless
rubbish. Saturday morning sees an antique flea market
spring to action, and if you’ve come to Kraków with the
intention of buying a rabbit then head down on Tuesday to
browse a collection of small domestic creatures.
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new
guise: Kraków’s premier pub crawl circuit. Find the aca-
demics with beads, dreadlocks and second hand books
in places like Singer, Alchemia and Królicze Oczy, while
the similarly dark and arty Mleczarnia down the road (ul.
Meiselsa) can boast a superb toilet that doubles as a
time portal to the 1920s. For all its shambolic charm it
comes as a relief that drinking in Plac Nowy is no longer
the one-dimensional experience it once was; there’s only
so many misanthropic actors you can deal with. Adding an
edge of urban glam to the night, Zbliżenia and Le Scandale
lure a crowd of sex sirens and pre-clubbers, adding to
the unpredictable fizz that is a day spent in this part of
town. Don’t miss it.
Kraków In Your Pocket
KAZIMIERZ 115
New Cemetery E-6, ul. Miodowa 55. This cemetery Pharmacy Under the Eagle (Apteka Pod Orłem)
Galleries was established in 1800 and was the burial ground for J-4, Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18, tel. 012 656 56 25, www.
Centre for Jewish Culture (Centrum Kultury many of Kraków’s distinguished Jews in the 19th and mhk.pl. Podgórze disctrict became the new Jewish ghetto
Żydowskiej) D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. 012 430 64 52, early 20th centuries. Its story takes on a darker aspect under the Nazi occupation. The pharmacy’s owner, Tadeusz
www.judaica.pl. Changing exhibitions of contemporary Jewish art. with the decimation of the Jewish population between Pankiewicz, decided to stay on in Podgórze and do all he
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Admission free. 1939 and 1945. Many of the tombstones are actually no could for the thousands of not yet captured Jews living at
more than memorials to entire families that were killed in this last stop on the genocide route. The pharmacy is now
Olympia Galeria D-6, ul. Józefa 18, tel. 0 603 22 30 08, the Holocaust. They now lie surrounded by weeds. The open as a museum, which heartrenderingly portrays life in the
www.olympiagaleria.pl. Brimming with interesting contemporary rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not yet penetrated the ghetto. To get there, cross the Powstańców Śląskich bridge.
art. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. New Cemetery’s walls, but there are newly-lit candles Q Open 09:30-17:00, Mon 10:00-14:00, Closed Sun, From
burning over the headstones. Q Open 09:00-16:00, November Open 09:00-16:00, Mon 10:00-14:00, Fri 10:00-
Museums & Synagogues Closed Sat. 17:00, Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 5/4zł, Mon free.
Galicia Jewish Museum (Żydowskie Muzeum Old Synagogue (Stara Synagoga) E-6, ul. Szeroka
Galicja) E-6, ul. Dajwór 18, tel. 012 421 68 42, www. 24, tel. 012 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Built on the Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery (Synagoga Re-
galiciajewishmuseum.org. The brainchild of award-winning cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old Synagogue muh z Cmentarzem) E-6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. 012 429
photo-journalist Chris Schwarz, The Galicia Jewish Museum is serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish religious 57 35. The smallest but most active synagogue in Kazimi-
comprised of some 135 photographs aimed at keeping alive the architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series of ex- erz, dating from 1553. If you enter quietly, you may even be
memory of Jewish life in the south of Poland in the aftermath of hibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish afforded a glimpse of a service. You can stroll through the
the Holocaust. Schwarz’ images of forgotten cemeteries, derelict Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The English cemetery which was in use until 1800. This holy burial ground
synagogues and death camps prove haunting and sober viewing, explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis because many
and deserve to be an essential part of any Kazimierz tour. Though the reader’s part and are therefore a perfect primer on of the gravestones had been buried to avoid desecration
his exhibition serves as the focal point, the converted warehouse the subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the during the 19th century occupation of Kraków by Austrian
also houses a café, information point and a bookstore selling a bimah enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th century Rabbi
range of titles of Jewish interest. Q Open 09:00-19:00, From Upstairs, a rather shoddy room displays the irrevocable Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh. Beside that
November Open 10:00-18:00. Admission 12/6zł. tragedy of this district. Posters and signs advertise the lies the oldest tomb in the cemetery commemorating his
restoration of the old German town of Krakau and the wife, Golda Auerbuch. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Isaac’s Synagogue (Synagoga Izaaka) E-6, ul. Kupa segregation of city trams, followed by deportation instruc- Admission 5/2zł.
18, tel. 012 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Isaac’s tions and posters with names of excecuted civilians. The
Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque style, was bookshop sells a fine selection of works realted to Jewish Temple Synagogue (Synagoga Tempel) D-6, ul. Mi-
opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from a wealthy Jew, Krakow, in a number of languages. Q Open 09:00-17:00, odowa 24, tel. 012 429 57 35. Gorgeous synagogue with
Izaak Jakubowicz. It is perhaps the most strikingly beautiful of Mon 10:00-14:00, From November Open 09:00-16:00, Mon a beautifully renovated interior. The gold-trimmed woodwork
the Kazimierz synagogues, all arabesques and squiggles yet 10:00-14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. within plays host to many concerts. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
rataining a sober linearity, especially within. Renovation is not Admission 8/6zł, Mon free. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
yet complete, but much survives and there is much to admire,
not least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurany runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to allcomers. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Fri
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 5/2zł.
Useful contacts
Jarden E-6, ul. Szeroka 2, tel. 012 429 13 74, www.
jarden.pl. Jewish bookshop that also arranges guided
Schindler’s List tours and trips to Auschwitz-Birkenau.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Jewish Community (Żydowska Gmina Wyznan-
iowa) D-7, ul. Skawińska 2, tel. 012 429 57 35, www.
krakow.jewish.org.pl. It has around 160 members and
organises events and gatherings for the Jewish community
in Kraków. QOpen 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Judaica Foundation D-6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. 012
430 64 49, www.judaica.pl. A civic and cultural centre
hosting lectures and exhibits reflecting Jewish life past and
present. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Mr Henryk Halkowski , tel. 0 501 41 09 93. Mr
Halkowski is the author of The Legends from the Jewish
Town and can tell you (in Polish and English) just about
everything there is to know about Kazimierz. Bookings
at Klezmer Hois.
Tourist Information D-6, ul. Józefa 7, tel. 012 422
04 71, www.biurofestiwalowe.pl. Information on
what to see and what’s going on in Kazimierz. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
October - November 2008
116 SCHINDLER‘S KRAKÓW
Oskar Schindler
Immortalized by Thomas Keneally’s book Schindler’s Ark,
and then later in the Spielberg epic Schindler’s List, Oskar
Schindler is a name synonymous with Kraków. A hard-drinking,
profiteering playboy, Schindler does not fit the standard mould
for a hero, though neither was he the typical Nazi. Credited
with saving 1,200 Jews his actions continue to serve as an
example and inspiration.
Born on April 28th, 1908 in what is now Svitavy, Czech
Republic, Schindler enjoyed a privileged upbringing and was
childhood friends with the Jewish family residing next door.
The 1930s economic crisis saw his family firm slide into
bankruptcy, and like so many disaffected German’s he signed
up to the Nazi party.
Hot on the heels of the invading German army Schindler
found himself arriving in Kraków in 1939, where he took
charge of a formerly Jewish owned enamel factory. Moti-
vated by greed he principally employed cut-price Jewish
labour, and involved himself in the thriving black market.
Living a careless, lavish lifestyle his world and motives
appear to have changed after witnessing the emptying
of the Podgórze ghetto.Both Keneally and Spielberg pay
particular importance to his fascination with the plight of a
small girl dressed in a red cape and Schindler would later
claim, ‘beyond this day, no thinking person could fail to see
what would happen. I was now resolved to do everything in
my power to defeat the system.’
He arranged for workers housed in the notorious Płaszów
camp to be moved to his factory, shielding them time and
time again from deportation and death through bribery
and cunning. With the war coming to a close, and ‘his Jews’
facing the prospect of death marches and gas chambers,
he miraculously managed to persuade Nazi authorities to
relocate his factory and his workers to Brunlitz.Estimates
suggest he spent four million marks during the war on protect-
ing his workers, with his wife even selling her jewelry so as to
provide funds for medicines and food. Moreover in the seven
months he spent as director of a shell factory in Brunlitz, not
one usuable shell left the production line.
Following the war he emigrated to Argentina with his wife to
settle as a farmer, though by 1957 he was declared bankrupt
and returned to Germany alone.Financial woes were to blight
him for the rest of his life. Regarded as a traitor to the father-
land he was cold shouldered by Germans, and more business
ventures fell by the wayside. By the time of his death in 1974
he was fully dependent on the charity of those he had saved.
Buried in Jerusalem, his acts of courage have been honored by
Yad Vashem as one of the Righteous Amongst Nations.
Płaszów memorial Sco
Kraków In Your Pocket
What to see
Kazimierz, and the courtyard on Józefa 12 (D-6) should be the
start of any Schindler/Keneally/Spielberg inspired tour, and this
is where numerous scenes in Spielberg’s film were shot. On
March 21st the 1941 the Jewish community was shifted across
Powstańców Śląskich bridge (J-4) into the cluster of buildings that
stood in the Podgórze ghetto. It’s on Pl. Bohaterów Getta 18
(J-4) where you will find the Pharmacy under the Eagles, a focal
point of ghetto life, and today a museum dedicated to portraying
Jewish life under occupation. Traces of the ghetto wall still exist
as well, with pieces to be found both at Lwowska 25-29 (K-4)
and ul. Limanowskiego 62 (J-4).On his arrival to Kraków Schindler
lived at ul. Starszewskiego 7 (B-5), before moving permanently
into his factory on Lipowa 4 (K-4). The factory is supposed to
open as a museum with reconstruction of Schindler’s office in
2009 but this is to be confirmed and previous planned opening
dates have come and gone. Płaszów camp can be found in the
south east of Kraków. Few traces remain of the camp, aside from
some rusting fences and mineshafts nowadays filled with litter
and the occasional rambling vagrant. The lonely dipping grass
plains are well worth a visit and dominated by a huge monument
raised in 1964. Goeth’s crumbling villa still stands and can be
viewed at ul. Heltmana 22 while down the road the grey house
on ul. Jerozolimska 3 was once home to a detachment of SS
officers as well as a basement torture chamber.
Amon Goeth
So what of the monster of the story, Amon Goeth. Born in
Vienna, 1908, our arch-villain joined the Nazi party in 1932,
before progressing to the ranks of the Gestapo in 1940.
Originally sent to German-occupied Lublin, east Poland,
Goeth found a liking for slaughter during the liquidation of
the Lublin Ghetto, and so impressed his seniors with his
methods that he was promoted to camp commandant of
the Płaszów camp in Kraków in 1943. In the same year
he supervised the brutal clearing of the Kraków ghetto in
Podgórze, as well as the ghetto found in Tarnów. Having
found a fondness for accepting bribes during his stint in
Lublin he used his position in charge of liquidizing ghettos to
steal property and valuables confiscated from Jews. Often
found parading around on a white charger he was notorious
for his corrupt nature, heavy drinking and bouts of extreme
violence. Several scenes in Spielberg’s masterpiece never
actually occurred however - he never murdered his stable
boy (who survived the war), nor was he able to take pot
shots at prisoners from his balcony, seeing that his house
backed directly onto a hill. However this should not be
taken as a sign of a benign human being. In the words of
Poldek Pfefferberg, ‘when you saw Goeth, you saw death’.
Unable to shoot at prisoners from his balcony, he saved
that dubious pleasure to taking crack shots from high on
a hill. In 1944 he was relieved of his position and charged
with theft of Reich property, though Germany’s looming
military collapse meant he was never brought to tribunal.
Diagnosed with diabetes and mental illness by SS doc-
tors he spent the remainder of the war in a sanatorium
and was arrested by American troops in 1945. Charged
with the murder of 2,000 Jews during the evacuation of
the Podgórze ghetto, and 8,000 deaths during his time in
Plaszów he was sentenced to death and hanged in Kraków
in 1946. Goeth’s mistress, Ruth-Irene Kalder remained
loyal to him in death, keeping a photograph of him by her
bedside until she died. Giving an interview in 1983 she
declared him a charming man before choosing to commit
suicide the following day. Goeth’s villa still stands and can
be viewed at ul. Heltmana 22.
For centuries the town of Oświęcim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That
changed with WWII when, under its German name of
Auschwitz, it became the site of the largest death camp
in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5 million
people, mainly Jews, were exterminated here, etching the
name of Auschwitz into the history books.
Getting there
Oświęcim is 75km west of Kraków and is served by frequent
buses (1.5hrs, 10zł) which leave from the station at ul. Bo-
sacka (E-1) and two early trains (1,5hrs, 11zł) daily. Some
buses drop you off at Auschwitz Museum, others will leave
you at Oświęcim train station from where local buses N°2, 3,
4, 5, 6, 9, 16, 17 and 23 (tickets at the kiosk, 2.20zł) go to
the museum. The two camps are 3km apart. Buses leave
for Auschwitz II - Birkenau every hour from the car park of
Auschwitz I from May 1st to November 1st. Alternatively,
take a taxi between the two for 15zł. Waiting minibus taxis
run by Malarek Tour can take you back to Kraków - a group
of eight would pay 25-35zł/person.
Important Information
Open 08:00 - 17:00. From November Open 08:00 -
16:00. Admission free. Guided tours 30/20zł per person,
225zł for up to 10 people. For larger groups 255zł plus
headphones costing 4zł per person must be hired. Film
(in English) 3.50zł. Children under 14 should not visit the
museum or see the film.
Auschwitz I
ul. Więźniów Oświęcimia 20, Oświęcim, tel. 033 844 80
00, dyspozytornia@pro.onet.pl, www.auschwitz.org.pl.
Words do no justice to the horror of Auschwitz. Pass through
the main gate of the concentration camp Auschwitz I - with
the immortal inscription Arbeit Macht Frei (work makes you
free) - and you become a witness to one of the most horrific
crimes ever perpetrated. But not before you pass several hot
dog huts first - including one with a sensitive Coca Cola poster
declaring in Polish: ‘want to live!’ Surely a matter of time till one
vile human opens a theme pub called Bar Mitzvah. Prisoners
passing through Auschwitz had no such luxuries, as the grue-
some film shown in the reception area illustrates. The English
language version is held at 10:00, 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00
and is a suitably sober prelude to what lies ahead.
After this disturbing introduction make sure to pick up the
official guidebook (priced 3zł), whose map of the camp is
crucial so as not to miss out on the key sites. The prescribed
route runs past the gateway and kitchens, where the camp
orchestra once played as prisoners marched to work, before
starting in earnest inside Block 4. It’s here you’ll find a good
overview of the creation and reality behind the world’s most
notorious concentration camp. Exhibits include original
architect’s sketches for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used
for extermination and mugshots of inmates.
It’s the final rooms that make for the most disturbing viewing,
however. On liberating the camp Red Army forces found over
seven tonnes of human hair destined for German factories.
Now on display in a room shielded from natural light the
endless piles of hair do much to demonst rate the scale and
depravity of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks newly arrived pris-
oners were stripped of their personal property, and it’s these
you’ll find on display in Block 5. Huge glass display units are
home to mountains of artificial limbs, glasses, suitcases and
AUSCHWITZ 117
A brief history
1940
April
In spite of the marshy terrain a Nazi commission decides
to open a concentration camp in Oświęcim, primarily
because of the excellent transport links it enjoys.
May 20
Using existing Polish army barracks as a foundation the
construction of Auschwitz I is completed.
June 14
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnów become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I. They are soon followed by
12,000 Soviet POWs.
1941
September 3
First experiments with Zyklon B poison gas are conducted
on 600 Soviet POWs
1942
Auschwitz II - Birkenau and Auschwitz III - Monowitz are
established.
1944
October 7
Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an armed
uprising, blowing up Crematorium IV. Hundreds escape
but all are soon captured and put to death.
1945
January
Liquidation of Birkenau with documents burnt and gas
chambers, crematoria and barracks destroyed. All
prisoners who can walk, approximately 58,000, are
sent on arduous ‘death marches’. Around 15,000 die
during this ‘evacuation’. On January 27 the Red Army
liberates Oświęcim, where around 7,000 prisoners too
weak to move have been abandoned to their fate. In the
months after the war the Auschwitz barracks are used
as an NKVD prison.
Post-war
The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is established.
In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and II on its list
of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is visited by
Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope Benedict
XVI visits in 2006.
June 28, 2007
UNESCO World Hertiage Committee approves Poland’s
request to change the name Auschwitz Concentration
Camp to Auschwitz Birkenau. German Nazi Concentration
and Extermination Camp (1940-1945). The request is a
reaction to the tendency of the site being referred to as
a Polish death camp.
shaving brushes, though the most touching sight is without
doubt the collection of children’s shoes. Block 6 examines the
daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs, artists
drawings and tools used for hard labour while the next set of
barracks recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners:
bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows
of communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Your visit takes a stomach churning turn at Block 11, oth-
erwise known as ‘The Death Block’. Outside, the Wall of
Death - against which thousands of prisoners were shot by
the SS - has been turned into a memorial festooned with
flowers, while inside the horrors of this Nazi death factory
have been faithfully preserved: whipping posts, manacles
and gallows included. It was at the Wall of Death that Pope
Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-breaking visit in 2007.
The cellars are terrifying. It’s here the Nazi’s conducted their
October - November 2008
118 AUSCHWITZ
first experiments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prison-
ers. Other cells include the death place of Father Maximilian
Kolbe, a Polish priest sentenced to death by starvation after
offering his life to save another inmate, and tiny ‘standing cells’
measuring 90 x 90 cm where up to four prisoners were held
for indefinite amounts of time.
After this the remaining barracks are specifically dedicated to
the suffering of individual nations. Some are in better condition
than others. The display simply titled ‘The Jews’ is showing
signs of decay with its flickery TV screenings and ageing pho-
tographs. The new Italian display is, frankly, largely pointless,
and no more than a circular walk on a raised wooden platform.
Not so of the Dutch exhibition, a white hall with touching back-
ground melodies, well labelled photo exhibits and even a bank
of computers to trace family who perished in the Holocaust.
The Hungarian barrack is particularly unsettling, the sound
of a beating heart thumping in the background, and graphic
pictures of murdered Jews. Also added, a block dedicated in
memory of the Roma people who perished, including several
family photographs of Roma who served in the German army
prior to Hitler’s rise to power.
The tour concludes with the gas chamber and crematoria,
whose two furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses
daily. The gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf
Hoss in 1947 stands outside.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau
Having explored the Auschwitz I complex many visitors decline
the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Don’ t dare
make the same mistake. There’s less to see, but the sheer
size and solitude of Birkenau leaves a far greater impact.
Added in 1942 Birkenau contained 300 barracks and build-
ings on a vast site that covered 175 hectares. Soon after the
Wannsee conference on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and
his henchmen rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination
of European Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most
savage of all the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000
prisoners held there in 1944.
The train tracks leading directly into the camp still remain. It
was here that Jews faced a grim selection process. Around
70 per cent of those deported were immediately chosen to
die and herded into gas chambers. Those selected as fit
for slave labour lived in squalid, unheated barracks, overrun
with vermin and lice. Starvation, disease and exhaustion
accounted for countless lives. With the Soviets advancing,
the Nazis attempted to hide all traces of their crimes. Gas
chambers were dynamited and living quarters levelled.
Today only a scattering of buildings remain, including the main
gate whose tower affords sweeping views of the complex.
Directly to the right lie wooden barracks used as quarantine
area, while across on the left hand side lie numerous brick
barracks which were home to the penal colony and also the
women’s camp. Some have been closed off for preservation
work, though it’s still possible to wander inside many. Sadly
many of the gloomy interiors have been idiotically covered with
modern generation graffiti, though original murals have also
survived; particularly touching are the wall paintings inside the
block used to house women and their children.
At the top of the camp lie the mangled remains of the crema-
toria, as well as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. Make the
walk to the top right of the camp to visit the permanent exhibit
in the ‘sauna’ - the area where new arrivals were registered,
tattooed and deloused before being sent off for slave labour.
The exhibit contains personal photographs recovered from
baggage, as well as other personal items that survived the
Nazi retreat. Q Open 08:00 - 17:00. From November Open
08:00 - 16:00. Admission free. Guided tours 30/20zł per
person, 225zł for up to 10 people. For larger groups 255zł
plus headphones costing 4zł per person must be hired. Film
Kraków In Your Pocket
A. Webber
(in English) 3.50zł. Children under 14 should not visit the
museum or see the film.
Auschwitz Jewish Centre & Chevra Lomdei
Mishnayot Synagogue (Centrum Żydowskie) Pl.
Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Oświęcim, tel. 033 844 70 02,
www.ajcf.org. This centre located 3km from the Auschwitz
museum maintains the town’s restored synagogue, shows
a film with testimonies of Holocaust survivors and offers
specially tailored programs for those who call ahead. It also
features a permanent exhibition on Jewish life in the town of
Oświęcim before World War II. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 5zł.
I n t e r n a t i o n a l Yo u t h M e e t i n g C e n t r e
(Międzynarodowy Dom Spotkań Młodzieży) ul.
Legionów 11, Oświęcim, tel. 033 843 21 07, www.
mdsm.pl. Education centre planning international seminars
on anti-Semitism, racism, nationalism, international relation-
ships, processes of democratisation and contemporary
Poland. International youth exchange programs, conferences
and lectures are also available. Additionally, they offer 100
beds, camping ground, seminar rooms and library.
The Nazis
Under occupation efforts were made to turn the town into
a model Nazi settlement with plans for wide green spaces
and modern estates. Aside from normal German settlers
the town saw 7,000 SS serve here and they enjoyed a good
community life complete with coffee house, swimming pool,
kindergarten and a profusion of cultural events; at one stage
the Dresden State Theatre performed here. The SS pub was
housed in a building across from Oświęcim train station, and
its top floor was turned into a flat to serve Himmler during
his visits. After the war the hunt was on to find the people
who perpetrated the Holocaust. Camp Commandant Rudolf
Hoss was captured in 1946, while posing as a farm hand.
Sentenced to death he was hanged next to the gas chamber
of Auschwitz I on April 16, 1947. Others who faced the hang-
man’s noose included the head of the women’s camp, Maria
Mandel, as well as her 22 year old sidekick Irma Grese, aka
the Beautiful Beast. Adolf Eichmann was the mastermind
behind mass Jewish deportations in the Eastern territories.
Having fled to Argentina after the war he was kidnapped
by Mossad agents, before facing the trial of the century in
Israel in which he was sentenced to hang. Josef Mengele, the
Angel of Death, served as the camp doctor in Birkenau and
supervised selections for the gas chambers as well as brutal
medical experiments on children. He evaded justice and died
in a swimming accident in Brazil in the seventies.
120 NOWA HUTA
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the huge
Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct antithesis of
everything cuddly Kraków is. Gargoyles and tourists? Not here.
The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta was one of only two
entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities ever built (the other
being Magnitogorsk in Russia’s Ural Mountains), and one of the
finest examples of deliberate social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed up a huge
swathe of agricultural land, and the ancient village of Kościelniki in an
attempt to create an in-yer-face proletarian opponent to intellectual,
fairytale Kraków. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on
May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of a model
city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck speed. Built to
impress Nowa Huta featured wide, tree-lined avenues, parks, lakes
and the officially sanctioned architectural style of the time - Socialist
Realist. Nowa Huta’s architects strove to construct the ideal city, with
inspiration coming from the neighbourhood blocks built in 1920s
New York. Careful planning was key, and the suburb was designed
with ‘efficient mutual control’ in mind - Wide streets would prevent
the spread of fire, the profusion of trees would soak up a nuclear
blast, while the layout was such that the city could easily be turned
into a fortress town if it came under attack.
It was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking from
across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of personal
sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man, Piotr Ożański,
credited with laying 33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers
life was tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first winter
arrived, and crime was rampant. Legends abounded of bodies
being buried in foundations, and night was positively dangerous
in this country still reeling from the chaos of world war. Finally, on
June 23, 1949, work on the first block of flats began - today a
plaque found on ul. Mierzwy 14 commemorates this.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was Nowa
Huta was never fully realized. A fearsome town hall in the style of
the renaissance halls found across Poland was never built, and
the pompous decorations planned for the central buildings were
never added. However what was completed is very much worth
the trip. Taking centre stage is the Central Square, once named
in Stalin’s honour. Dating from 1949 it’s a masterpiece of Soviet
social planning, and the brainchild of architect Tadeusz Ptaszycki.
In an ultimate twist of irony, this Soviet landmark was officially
renamed Ronald Reagan Square in 2004, though speak to any
local and you’ll still find in referred to as Pl. Centralny.
But while this ‘square’ serves as the focal point for visitors, it’s
the steelworks that Nowa Huta is known for. Poland was in the
process of rebuilding itself from near complete destruction in WWII,
and steel was vital to this progress. Work began in April, 1950,
and by 1954 the first blast furnace was in operation. Employing
some 40,000 people in its heyday the steelworks - named for a
time after Lenin - were capable of producing seven million tonnes
of steel annually, and at one time boasted the largest blast furnace
in Europe. Such was its reputation that Fidel Castro chose to visit
the Steelworks rather than Kraków’s Rynek on one state visit to
Poland. Found on the end of al. Solidarności the entrance to what
is known as the Sendzimir Steelworks has been given the full
socialist makeover, with two concrete monstrosities built to echo
the fine old buildings of Poland. You’ll hear the natives referring to
this architectural masterstroke as the Doge, after the grand palace
in Venice which they are supposed to resemble.
Nowa Huta may have been designed to be a socialist show-
case city, but the reality was far different. It became a hotbed
of anticommunist activity, with early displays of dissent traced
back to the twenty year struggle for permission to build the Arka
Pana church. Not surprisingly many of these protestors could be
found during the day on the factory floor, and the steelworks were
to play a huge part in the Solidarity strikes of the early 1980s.
Identified as an anti-establishment stronghold, the steelworks
were placed under military control during the period of Martial
law, and today a remembrance room inside the factory honours
those workers who put their lives on the line.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Memories of Lenin
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible Lenin visited
what is now Nowa Huta during his two year sojourn in
Kraków. He made a high-profile comeback in1954 when
the steelworks were named after him, and a year later a
statue of him was unveiled in Strzelecki Park. The figure
was moved to the Lenin Museum soon after, and there-
after mysteriously disappeared. In 1970 the decision
was taken to construct a new one on Al. Róż, with Marian
Konieczny winning the commission.
Strangely the artist, the man behind the Nike statue in
Warsaw, was at the time living in Lenin’s former flat. Weird.
Perhaps inspired by this freaky turn of fate Konieczny
took three years to create a cracker of a statue, with the
seven tonne Lenin seen striding purposefully foreward
with raincoat open and furrowed brow. The people of
Nowa Huta however were left unimpressed, and the
statue soon became the focus of creative vandals. In
1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though the only
casualty proved to be a local man who died of shock
after woken by the blast. During the Martial Law era
more attempts to destroy him were thwarted, and he
doggedly survived an effort to pull him down, as well as
an arson attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin
was picked up by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot
in a disused fort. But his story doesn’t end there. Years
later a Swedish philanthropist bought him for 100,000
Swedish crowns, and had him shipped out to a museum
outside of Stockholm. Today Nowa Huta’s pet Lenin has
been given a more youthful look by Swedish artists, and
is now seen touting a pierced ear and a ciggie.
Similar to certain parts of Warsaw as well as many urban
areas in the former Soviet Union Nowa Huta offers a surreal look
inside the false dawn that was communism. Nowhere is this
flawed grandeur more apparent than in the Teatr Ludowy (os.
Teatralne 34), its interiors filled with absurd chandeliers. Built
in 1955 the exterior was apparently inspired by ancient Egypt,
though anyone who visits is likely to disagree. Equally fearsome
is the Kino Świt, its facade supported by twelve pillars.
Yet while Socialist Realism is the defining style, it’s not the
only one. By the 1960s, and with the supply of bricks from the
flattened Wroclaw drying up, it was the turn of the high-rises
to come to the fore. The horizon was transformed within a
decade, with easy to build faceless towers mushrooming up
in the suburbs. However, while Nowa Huta is the product of
the last half century, it is still possible to find places of older
value. First off there’s Mogila (see below), and nearby is a WWI
cemetery containing the bodies of 71 soldiers felled in battle.
Artist Jan Matejko frequently escaped Kraków to this region,
and his manor house on ul. Wańkowicza 25 is today a mu-
seum, its rooms perfectly preserved from the times he would
take solace from the flap and flutter of urban Kraków.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre os. Słoneczne 16,
tel. 012 643 03 03, www.biurofestiwalowe.pl. The
nerve centre of Nowa Huta’s new persona, there’s not
a lot available in English here yet, but one or two of the
people working in the building speak good English. This
is currently the only place to pick up a (free) map of
Nowa Huta, which also doubles as a walking tour of the
district’s most interesting sights. QOpen 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
NOWA HUTA 121
Norwid Cultural Centre (Ośrodek Kultury im. C.
Further reading K. Norwida) os. Górali 5, tel. 012 644 27 65, www.
okn.edu.pl. Of the kind once found lurking behind every fold
Nowa Huta resident and self-confessed Nowa Huta fa- in the Iron Curtain, this focal point for Nowa Huta’s creative
natic Maciej Miezian’s superb little paperback, Kraków’s community would be of little interest to the outsider if it wasn’t
Nowa Huta (Wydawnictwo Bezdroża, 2004) offers a fas- for the superb collection of orginal paintings and sculptures on
cinating and often amusing delve inside its people and display up the stairs, all of them the work of the now infamous
architecture, and remains by far the most comprehensive Kraków Group. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 21:00,
resource on the suburb written in English. Covering ev- Sun 16:00 - 21:00.
erything from accounts of its heroic construction through
to its current incarnation as a leisure destination, at just Nowa Huta Museum os. Słoneczne 16, tel. 012 425
35zł it can be picked up in bookshops throughout Kraków. 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Inside the Tourist Information Centre
Highly recommended this small museum features a series of changing exhibitions
relating to the life and culture of Nowa Huta, and is well worth
dropping by to see what’s on. Q Open 09:30-17:00, Closed
Main sights Mon, Sun, From November Open 09:00-16:00, Wed 10:00-
17:00, Closed Mon, Sun. Last ticket sold 30 minutes before
Arka Pana Church (Kościół Arka Pana) ul. Obrońców closing. Admission 4/3zł. Wed free.
Krzyża 1, tel. 012 644 54 34, www.arkapana.pl. Built
between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Huta’s first house of worship
was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was pieced together Mogiła
brick by brick by volunteer workers with no assistance from Incorporated inside Nowa Huta’s borders in 1973, the small
the communist authorities. The complete opposite of what village of Mogiła is everything you think Nowa Huta isn’t.
Nowa Huta was meant to stand for, Arka Panna is a remarkable A sleepy collection of wooden houses and not much else,
building, and a true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism. Mogiła does however claim two superb architectural gems.
With no outside help it was down to the locals mix cement with The vast and splendid St. Wenceslas’ Church dates from
spades, and find the two million stones needed for the church’s 1266, and was founded by bishop John Prandota. The huge
facade. The first corner stone was laid in 1969 by Cardinal Karol interior features many fine examples of Renaissance painting
Wojtyla, who would later assume fame as Pope John Paul II. and is generally considered to be one of the most important
But the discovery of a WWII ammunition dump delayed work, religious buildings in the Małopolska region. Across the street
and the precarious removal of some 5,000 mines and shells is the diminutive St. Bartholomew’s Church, a 15th-century
had to be completed before work was resumed. Finally, on May wooden treasure, Kraków’s only wooden church and remark-
15, 1977, the church was finally consecrated. Built to resemble able for little else except for its rare cross shape. To get to
Noah’s Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped crucifix rising from the Mogiła, take tram N°15 or 20 east from Pl. Centralny, get off
middle, the church houses a mind-boggling array of treasures, at the Klasztorna stop and walk south a couple of hundred
including a stone from the tomb of St Peter in the Vatican, a metres down ul. Klasztorna. You can’t miss them.
tabernacle containing a fragment of rutile brought back from
the moon by the crew of Apollo 11 and a controversial statue
of Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about to fly to the
heavens. No surprises that it’s the work of Bronislaw Chromy,
the same lunatic behind the Wawel Dragon statue and Dzok the
Dog. And if you thought it couldn’t get weirder then you hadn’t
gambled on the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured -
get this, the half metre sculpture is made from ten kilograms of
shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the Battle
of Monte Cassino. The church became a focal point during the
anti-communist protests of the early 1980s, not least for the
shelter it afforded the locals from the militia. Protesting during
the period of Martial Law was dangerous business, and that’s
proved by the monument dedicated to Bogdan Wlosik more or
less opposite the church. Wlosik was shot in the chest by security
services, and later died of his injuries. His death outraged the
people, and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The
monument commemorating the site of his death was erected in
1992 and is a tribute to all those who died during this period.Q
Lower level Open 06:00 - 17:00. Upper level Open during mass
and on request. No visiting during mass please.
Museum of the Armed Act (Muzeum Czynu Zbroj-
nego) os. Górali 23, tel. 012 644 35 17, members.
chello.pl/s.pietrzyk. An astonishing museum that doesn’t
translate into English very well, find inside a series of dusty
rooms several touching exhibits dedicated to those who
fought and died for their nation and who were born in the
Nowa Huta area. In Polish only, most things on display might
not mean much to those lacking a healthy interest in the
detritus and paraphernalia of war, but it’s well worth popping
in if only for a look at the intriguing and grotesque models
of life under the Nazis during WWII. QOpen 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
October - November 2008
122 OJCÓW NATIONAL PARK
Located only 35km from Krakow, Ojców National Park of-
fers the outdoor type a wealth of activities away from the
hustle and bustle of city life.
Ojców National Park (Ojcowski Park Narodowy) ,
tel. 012 648 99 77, www.ojcow.pl. Situated 35km from
Kraków is yet another wonder of the region - Ojców National
Park (Ojcowski Park Narodowy). Although one of the small-
est in Poland the park is one of the most interesting and is
well worth a day-trip particularly if you want to escape the
hustle and bustle of Kraków. Encompassing the valleys of
the rivers Pradnik and Saspówka, the underlying rock is
Jurassic Limestone and the effect of underground water on
the soluble limestone has resulted in an incredible landscape
with some amazing rock formations and deep, steep-sided
ravines. Amongst the most notable are the Cudgel of Her-
cules, the Stone Wanderer, Diotima’s Needle, the 15m tall
Kraków Gate and the Spring of Love, a heart shaped stone
from which water flows.
There are also a few castles which are worth visiting as well
as a small wooden chuch in Ojców which dates to 1901. The
biggest pull of the park though are its bat caves with their 15
species of bat living in a series of underground caves.
And it is not just things to see. Ojców National Park offers
a number of ways to enjoy what the park has to offer on
foot, on horseback or by bicycle. And the rock-climbing op-
portunities are huge making this an oasis of pleasure for
the outdoor type.
Pieskowa Rock
( P i e s ko w a S k a ł a )
Pieskowa Skała-Zamek,
Sułoszowa, tel. 012 389 60
04, www.pieskowaskala.
eu. Located on the park’s
borber is the beautiful Renais-
sance Pieskowa Skała castle.
The castle was once part of a
fortification system that stretched from Kraków to Częstochowa
and was built by King Casimir the Great. It was turned into a
Reniassance residence in the 16th century and today houses
part of the Wawel National Art Collection. Close by you’ll find
beautiful gardens and the famous Maczuga Herkulesa (Cudgel
of Hercules or Hercules’ club) a natural rock formation which has
a bit of a legend attached to it. Eagle eyed readers will have seen
information about the famous Kraków wizard Twardowski who is
reputed to have sold his soul to the devil. He was granted wishes
in return and apparently he used one of these getting the devil to
carry this rock here and to deposit it upside down. We could think of
a number of better things to ask
the devil to do if we’d just sold
our soul but each to his own
we suppose. Q Open 09:00-
15:00, Fri 09:00-12:00, Closed
Mon. From November Open
10:00-15:00, Closed Mon, Tue,
Wed, Thu, Fri. Admission 10/7zł,
family ticket 32zł.
Casimir’s Castle (Zamek Kazimierzowski) Near the
main car park in Ojców, tel. 012 648 99 77, www.ojcow.
pl. Another castle in this defence system was Casimir’s Castle
(Zamek Kazimierzowski), once home to a garrison of hundred
soldiers. Its Gothic tower, built by master stonemasons, has
survived to this day along with the gate tower, fragments of
the fortified walls and a well carved from limestone. Q Open
10:00 - 16:45, Sun 10:00 - 17:45. From November Closed.
Admission 2.50/1.50zł.
Kraków In Your Pocket
WIELICZKA 123
For centuries, salt was mined near Kraków and
Bat caves brought wealth to the region. Two mines can be visited, www.inyourpocket.com
of which the one in Wieliczka is the most spectacular.
While you are in the region you shouldn’t miss the oppor- About 20 million years ago, this area was covered
tunity to visit one of the bat caves - and we’re not talking by a shallow, salty sea. Unfortunately for Kraków the Get there by train from Kraków (1-3 trains per hour, 30-60
about the kind inhabited by groovy heroes dressed in beaches have gone, but left behind were some huge minutes) and walk 10 minutes uphill from the station to the
tights and y-fronts. Located either in or around the Ojców salt deposits that ended up 10-200m underground Rynek (main square) from where you see the shaft lifts. Q
National Park, which is 35km from Kraków, there are over due to tectonic movements. Ever since the Stone Age, Admission 30/21zł. Tours at 09:30, 11:30, 15:30, Sat, Sun
400 caves the most famous of which we list here. locals have been boiling brine to extract salt from at 10:15 and hourly between 11:00 & 16:00. Phone ahead
To reach the Ojców National Park from Kraków you should the easily reachable layers; from the 13th century for an English-speaking guide 10zł.
take the private Unibus line from (I-1) ul. Helclów. Tickets people started to dig for rock-salt. The mines gradually
can be purchased from the driver and this bus will take developed from small shafts used by local farmers Wieliczka Mine ul. Daniłowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel. 012
you to all of the caves mentioned. For the most up to and operating only in wintertime, to complexes of 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. A listed UNESCO monument
date bus schedules check www.ojcow.pl or at the bus tunnels with horse-powered winches until finally into since 1978, the Wieliczka mine is thought to have been
stops at ul. Helclów and Ojców. the modern mines that were eventually closed in the created by the forces of nature around 15 million years ago.
1990s. Both the Bochnia and Wieliczka mines can be The mine features nine floors, ranging from 64 metres to
Wierzchowska Górna Cave (Jaskinia Wier- visited on tours that last about two hours, with witty 327 metres in depth, with one shaft dating from medievel
zchowska Górna) Wierzchowie, tel. 012 411 07 guides who give insight into ancient and modern salt times. The tour takes in a series of chambers full of carvings
21, www.gacek.pl. Leave the bus at Biały Kościół which mining techniques and the artworks, chapels, lakes, and statues, the late 17th century St. Anthony’s chapel and
is a 3zł and 30 minute ride from Kraków. On leaving sports facilities and sanatoriums you now find under- the huge 22,000m3 Chapel of St. Kinga, which is completely
the bus, cross the street and follow the signs to Jaski- ground. The temperature in both mines is a constant decorated with salt. The bas-relief wall carvings, made by
nia Wierzchowska Górna. Covering approximately 1,000 15°C. If you want to impress the guide, memorise the talented miners, depict scenes from the New Testament
metes of underground labyrinths, evidence of Neolithic wonderful words Szczęść Boże (stench-tsh boh-zhe); and display amazing dimension and realism. After passing a
life was found here including tools and the skeleton of this essential, unpronouncable bit of salt miners’ lingo salt lake that holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a
a cave bear. This was one of the first caves in Europe means as much as ‘may God protect you.’ hall big enough to fly a hot-air balloon in, the tour ends at the
to open to the public and today the biggest attractions underground restaurant and souvenir shop. A rattling high-
are the community of bats (mainly Horseshoe species) Bochnia Mine (Kopalnia Soli Bochnia) ul. Solna 2, speed mining lift brings you back up to the surface. Travel
and the Cave Spiders which although venomous are not Bochnia, tel. 014 615 36 36, www.kopalniasoli.pl. This the 15km to Wieliczka by frequent train (4zł) or by minibus
dangerous. Q Open 9:00-16:00. From November Open salt mine was the oldest production company in Poland - it (every 20 minutes from the train station, 2,50zł). QOpen
9:00-15:00. Admission 13/11zł. recently closed after more than 750 years of operation. The 07:30 - 19:30. Open 07:30-19:30, From November Open
tour takes in the largest chambers, that hold a sports centre, 08:00-17:00. Admission 64/49zł. Tours begin every half an
Bat Cave In Będkowska Valley (Jaskinia cafeteria, disco and sanatorium before heading off to the hour from 08:30 - 18:00. From September tours at 09:00,
Nietoperzowa) Jerzmanowice 79, tel. 012 389 chapel and some twisty old shafts. While less spectacular 10:00, 11:00, 11:30, 12:30, 13:45, 15:00, 17:00. Groups
53 95, www.nietoperzowa.ojcow.pl. To reach this than Wieliczka, Bochnia is a less commercial and hurried up to 35 people 40/25zł per person by prior arrangement,
cave you will need to leave the bus at Czajowice which experience. obligatory guide 265zł. Camera use 10zł.
is a 3zł and 40 minute ride from Kraków. The caves
were discovered in 1841 but have only been open to
the public since 1994 and are currently home to 124
winged mammals hailing from eight different species.
Research carried out in the 1950’s found traces of
human life dating back 40,000 years as well as around
4,000 tusks thought to belong to cave bears. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Admission 6/5zł.
King Łokietek Cave (Grota Łokietka) Ojców
National Park, tel. 012 419 08 01, www.grotaloki-
etka.pl. To reach the King Łokietek cave you will need
to travel onto Ojców, a 4zł and 50 minute journey from
Kraków. On leaving the bus look for signs for the black
route (Czarny Szlak). This is the largest cave in the Ojców
National Park at 320m long and is visited by over 100,000
people annually. This subterranean delight houses 37
bats consisting of seven breeds with the oldest cave
dating back to 1691. The name honours King Łokietek,
who apparently evaded capture by the Czech army by
sheltering here. According to legend a spider weaved
a web over the entrance, thereby throwing the pesky
invaders off the trail. Q Open 09:00 - 17:30. Closed
From November. Admission 7/5zł.
EcoTravel os. Niepodległosci 3a/5a (Nowa Huta),
tel. 012 648 99 77, www.ojcow.pl. Krakow-based
tour company specialising in and cooperating with the
Ojcow National Park. They can organise a guide for you if
you call them in advance and English-speaking guides will
cost you 350zł plus the entrance fees regardless if you
visit one cave or all of them. They recommend that you
leave 4 - 5 hours to visit the caves listed here. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
October - November 2008
124 TARNÓW
Eighty kilometres east
of Kraków near the
crossroads of two
ancient trade routes
lies the charming city of
Tarnów. First mentioned
in a document dated
1124, the so-called
Pearl of the Renais-
sance offers visitors to
southeastern Poland a
superb base to discover
the wealth of sights
in the region from the
comfort of a small
town with a big history.
Brimming with wonderfully preserved Gothic, Baroque
and Renaissance architecture, Tarnów boasts a rich,
colourful and often disturbing past, from the Scottish
settlers who arrived in the 16th century to set up the first
banks to the large Jewish population who contributed
so much to the life and culture of the city and who were
wiped out in the flicker of an eye a mere two generations
ago. The once privately owned city and home to the
illustrious, avant-garde nobleman Jan Tarnowski, Tarnów
was the first Polish city to free itself from 146 years of
captivity in October 1918. Rapidly gaining a reputation as
a noteworthy tourist destination, today’s Tarnów strikes
the perfect balance between history and modernity,
offering a less hectic and more intimate alternative to its
large and noisy neighbour to the west.
Arriving
At the crossroads of two ancient trade routes between
Germany and Ukraine as well as Hungary and the Baltic
Sea, Tarnów is easily reached by road. A good network of
train and bus services running in and out of the city centre
also link Tarnów with many major destinations throughout
Poland.
By bus
A very local affair, everything you need on arrival, with the
exception of anyone who speaks English, can be found
inside the main bus station building. Find toilets (2.00zł)
downstairs, a number of kiosks selling snacks and mobile
top-up vouchers and a Tourist Centre (Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun) for onward travel on the
ground floor, and a snack bar upstairs. There are no money
changing facilities or ATMs, so if you need cash you’ll need
to go to the train station next door. To get into town, find
taxis parked outside, who will take you to the Rynek for
8-10zł. Bus N°9 can be caught on Krakowska (buy a 2zł
ticket from one of the nearby kiosks), and heads east along
the same street before peeling right and skirting around
the southern edge of the Old Town. A walk into the centre
takes about 15 minutes.
By car
Tarnów is close to a number of major road routes in all
directions and is worth considering as a place to stop
off for a few hours or even for the night if you’re on a long
journey. If you’re driving from Kraków, be warned that the
main road is currently subject to major delays, making the
80km journey a potentially long and tiring trip. The main
road from Kraków filters right into the city centre, and
parking is relatively easy to find, although finding guarded
parking is advisable.
Kraków In Your Pocket
By train
Tarnów is served by some 40 or so trains every day from Kraków,
with a journey time of between 60 and 90 minutes depending on
whether you take a local or express train. The once grand train
station is looking a bit tatty these days but features good facilities
including shops and restaurants, kiosks for snacks and mobile
top-up cards and a decent internet café (Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 21:00). There’s an ATM inside the main building, and
onward express train (ICC) tickets can be bought from windows
N°1 and N°2. Left luggage is also available but was locked when
we tried to get in. Toilets (1zł/1.50zł), that also offer the chance
of taking a shower for 7zł can be found at the far end of platform
N°1. Getting into town is the same as By bus.
Where to stay
For a city the size of Tarnów there are a surprisingly diverse
number of places to stay to suit just about all tastes and bud-
gets. The other great thing about Tarnów is that almost all of
the accommodation is within easy reach of the city centre.
Hotels
Bristol ul. Krakowska 9, tel./fax 014 621 22 79, bristol.
tn@poczta.fm, www.bristol.tarnow.com.pl. A sumptuous,
inter-war feeling of grandeur inside Tarnów’s classy, four-star
hotel, the immaculate rooms come with minibars, cable televi-
sion, arty-looking beds and a choice of en suite facilities with
either a shower or bath. Extras include solarium, gym and
a wonderful honeymoon apartment featuring a large Jacuzzi
and a bright pink bed. Q15 rooms (15 singles 190 - 350zł,
14 doubles 320 - 450zł, 2 triples 400zł, 6 apartments 270 -
450zł). PTHAFLGKW hhhh
Cristal Park ul. Traugutta 5, tel. 014 633 12 25, fax
014 633 12 27, hotel@cristalpark.pl, www.cristalpark.
pl. A good 20 minutes west of the centre on the N°9 bus, the
Cristal Park is your classic, partially renovated communist-era
behemoth. Avoid the rooms that still await new furniture and
you’ll be just fine. Features include a lush red Presidential Suite
complete with Jacuzzi, and a range of good doubles and singles,
some with small balconies overlooking the local speedway
track. Add-ons include a sauna and, strangely, a rather fabulous
salt room for some serious therapy. A taxi into the centre will
set you back around 15zł. Q93 rooms (39 singles 149 - 189zł,
45 doubles 219 - 280zł, 5 triples 279zł, 11 apartments 349 -
500zł). PTHARULGKDW hhh
Tarnovia ul. Kościuszki 10, tel. 014 630 03 50, fax 014
621 27 44, recepcja@hotel.tarnovia.pl, www.hotel.tar-
novia.pl. One of two communist-era landmark hotels in the city,
the Tarnovia is both the nearest to the city centre and the most
charming of the two. Built in the 1970s, the hotel is now owned
by the staff themselves, giving the whole place a strange aura
of pride that is lacking in many hotels of a much better standard.
Rooms come in a variety of choices from some startling unreno-
vated monstrosities to a range of lovely rooms with cable televi-
sion, internet access and great views of the city. Q135 rooms
(115 singles 135 - 220zł, 81 doubles 150 - 290zł, 3 apartments
400 - 480zł). PTHARUFLGKDW hhh
U Jana Rynek 14, tel./fax 014 626 05 64, recepcja@
hotelujana.pl, www.hotelujana.pl. A barrage of oil paintings
and a laid-back attitude on the Rynek, featuring a range of good
value suites priced according to the view. Room facilities include
huge beds, limited cable television, nice wooden floors and er-
ratic showers. An unbeatable location and a good price, but the
service could do with one or two major improvements. Q11
rooms (11 apartments 165 - 720zł). HAKW hhhh
Willa Krzyska ul. Krzyska 52b, tel. 014 620 11 34, fax
014 620 11 34 ext 30, recepcja@willakrzyska.pl, www.
willakrzyska.pl. A choice of seven bright and modern rooms
and apartments with a distinctly business-class hotel feel to
them inside a villa-like building 15 minutes north of the city
centre, facilities include card-operated security, broadband
internet, cable television, a splendid apartment with a big
bath and kitchen, guarded parking and a relaxing garden.
Popular with business travellers during the week, booking
in advance is highly recommended. Taxis in and out of the
centre cost about 10zł. Alternatively, the N°6 and N°15
buses go right past the front door. Q7 rooms (6 singles
200 - 240zł, 6 doubles 240 - 280zł, 1 apartment 270 - 300zł).
HARLGKW hhh
Restaurants & Cafés
Bombaymusic ul. Krakowska 11a, tel. 014 627 07 60,
www.bombay.rix.pl. The true test of an Indian restaurant
is what greets the olfactory nerves on entering. At Bombay
it’s, unfortunately, a little lacking in spiciness. Decorated
with pictures of jazz musicians on the walls and featuring a
diverse menu of not just Chicken Tikka (there’s Polish and
Chinese food if you want it as well), they do at least offer
some Indian food, which is a pleasant surprise indeed, even
if the food isn’t quite up to the standard you’d expect from
your usual Indian restaurant. Find it tucked away in the
basement of the Dom Handlowy Krakus shopping centre.
Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (14-60zł).
PTAUEXSW
Forum ul. Wekslarska 9, tel. 014 620 11 11, www.
pizzaforum.pl. One of Tarnów’s better pizza restaurants
just off the Rynek, the somewhat dark and slightly feminine
interior betrays a wide range of good pizzas plus a small
selection of other dishes including steak and pierogi. Good,
friendly, English-speaking waitresses finish the whole affair
off rather nicely. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (14-28zł). PUXS
Pasaż Pl. Kazimierza Wlk. 2, tel. 014 627 82 78, www.
pasaz.tarnow.pl. Hidden, as the name implies, inside a
passage between the Rynek and the street of the address,
the very swanky Pasaż is a much talked-about local favourite
serving a whole host of hearty food including tenderloin in
spicy cheese sauce au gratin with spinach ravioli - or - trout
with zucchini, pepper sauce and wild rice in curlpaper. As
mouth-watering as it sounds, the international dishes
don’t quite hit the mark as hard as the Polish fare, which re-
ally is very good indeed. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (15-32zł).
PAUXSW
Tarnovia ul. Kościuszki 10, tel. 014 630 03 50, www.
hotel.tarnovia.pl. A glorious blast to the past experience, the
Tarnovia hotel’s ground floor in-house restaurant offers a lim-
ited menu of classic Polish dishes and the opportunity to get
sloshed at the bar in the type of surroundings that will soon
be a thing of the past. Be sure to check out the superb glass
wall in the dining area at the back. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 07:00 - 23:00. (18-40zł). PTAUXSW
Tatrzańska ul. Krakowska 1, tel. 014 622 46 36,
www.kudelski.pl. A very friendly and relaxed affair, featur-
ing English-speaking waiters in bow ties and a classy menu.
Among the extravagant-sounding dishes on offer are duck
breast salad, Polish mountain cheese and scampi in brandy
sauce. There’s a fine dessert menu too, all wrapped up
in a fine ambience of potted palms and paintings of the
nearby Tartra Mountains. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (18-45zł).
PTAEXSW
TARNÓW 125
What to see
Tarnów boasts an extraordinarily well-preserved Old Town,
has one of the finest market squares in southern Poland,
and hides a wealth of unique buildings and places of
interest. With its rich Jewish history, superb churches and
outstanding museums, there’s enough to see and do to
justify spending at least one night in the city. A longer stay
would also allow you to fully explore a city that features
many other remarkable sights, from traditional wooden-
roofed houses to a diverse selection of attention-grabbing
monuments and statues. Tarnów’s geographical position
also makes it an attractive base for exploring the many
impressive sights within an hour or two’s drive. A trip to the
city’s Tourist Information Centre also comes highly recom-
mended. As well as being able to keep you informed of the
latest events in Tarnów and the surrounding region, they
can also provide supplementary, and often more in-depth
information to what’s available here.
Churches
Tarnów’s Catholic history is celebrated with one or two
outstanding churches and a number of other religious build-
ings and sights of particular note. As well as its awesome
Cathedral and two lovely small wooden churches, other
highlights around the city include the Former Bernardine
Church, built in 1468 and still retaining some of its original
Gothic features, its 18th-century contemporary Baroque
counterpart, and the Gothic Bernadine Monastery, no longer
in active use and dating from the late 15th century. Also
well worth having a look around, and located between the
two wooden churches in the southern part of the city, lies
the Old Catholic Cemetery. A haunting yet strangely serene
testament to Tarnów’s rich cultural past, it dates from 1790
and features over 4,000 graves as well as monuments to
the 1831 and 1863 insurgencies and the victims of the
1846 peasant riot. Also worth looking at are the two mod-
ern monuments to the right of the entrance. Closest to the
main gates is a suitably austere commemoration to those
who lost their lives between 1939 and 1945, complete with
two huge swords and a small girl weeping against a wall.
A little further on is an unknown piece of concrete, almost
certainly from communist times, and featuring three slightly
abstract figures striking the most extraordinary pose.
Cathedral Pl. Katedralny, tel. 014 621 45 01, www.
katedra.tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Dating from the 14th century
with major additions and rebuilds in the 15th and 19th cen-
turies, the Neo-Gothic Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin
Mary, just northwest of the Rynek, one of the oldest brick
buildings in the city, must rate as one of the most impressive
parish churches in Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal,
six 16th-century Renaissance monuments to the Tarnowski
family, a number of extraordinary paintings and the impres-
sive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference when getting
lost in one of Tarnów’s many rambling back streets. Some
nice recent additions are also evident, including the fabulously
ornate sculpted metal doors on the southern side of the build-
ing. QOpen 06:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:00 - 21:00.
Holy Trinity Church (Kościół Św. Trójcy) ul. Tu-
chowska 5, tel. 014 626 88 85. Of the 50 or so wooden
churches in the Tarnów region, two can be found inside the
city. This little Gothic marvel was built between 1595 and
1597. Of particular interest inside is the extraordinary paint-
ing above the main altar, the Throne of Grace, which depicts
God as having six fingers on his left hand, representing the
number of days it took Him to create the Earth. Q Open by
prior arrangement.
October - November 2008
126 TARNÓW
Local heroes
Józef Bem
Tarnów’s greatest son was without doubt the swash-
buckling Polish and Hungarian hero Józef Bem, who
was born in the city on March 14, 1794 in what was
then part of Hungarian Galicia. After receiving a first
class military education in nearby Kraków, the young,
diminutive and famously courageous Bem fought in
many notable battles including the Russian campaign
of 1812 and, a year later, earning the Cross of the
Legion of Honour during the bloody defence of Danzig
(Gdańsk). As a teacher at a Russian military college he
spent a short while testing rocket-type missiles before
getting himself thoroughly mixed up in a conspiracy to
restore Polish independence, an act that almost cost
him a year in jail. After resigning his commission in his
late 20s, Bem, who is widely acclaimed as one of the
greatest Polish and Hungarian generals of all time, lived
a progressively eccentric and romantic life, earning his
Polish credentials from the part he played in the failed
1830-1831 Polish uprisings against tsarist rule and,
after a failed assassination attempt by the Russians in
Portugal, acquiring the status of Hungarian national hero
after fighting heroically in the 1848 uprising in Vienna.
Via skirmishes in Transylvania and a victory over the
Austrian general Anton Freiherr von Puchner in 1849,
Bem was seriously wounded at the Battle of Segesvár, a
crushing defeat that forced him into exile in the Ottoman
Empire. To facilitate a career in the Turkish army, Bem
converted to Islam, changed his name to Yusuf Pasha
and served as the governor of the city of Aleppo in what’s
now Syria. In his final act of bravery, Bem helped save
Aleppo’s Christian population from being massacred by
the Muslims before succumbing to a fever which took
his life on December 10, 1850.
In 1929, Bem’s remains were brought back to Tarnów,
and the city has since become a place of pilgrimage for
both Poles and Hungarians. Józef Bem’s ashes lie in a
grand Mausoleum in the middle of a lake at the far north-
ern end of the city’s main park, and features inscriptions
in Polish, Hungarian and Ottoman Turkish. A special Józef
Bem trail can be followed in Tarnów, which takes in the
Mausoleum as well as the house he was allegedly born
in that stands at number 8 in the square named in his
honour just southwest of the Rynek. A statue of Bem,
unveiled on May 11, 1985 can be found at ul. Walowa
at the eastern edge of the Old Town.
© Urząd Miasta Tarnów
Kraków In Your Pocket
St. Mary’s Church (Kościół Św. Marii) ul. Panny Marii
1, tel. 014 621 31 75. A beautiful little Gothic larch wood church
consecrated in 1462, the first thing you notice is the extraor-
dinary smell of, not surprisingly, wood. The tiny inside hides a
feast of delights, including a 16th-century painting of Our Lady
of the Scapular above the altar, painted flowers on the ceiling,
a miniature organ and a few remaining touches of the original
hand-painted wall paintings. Q Open during mass only.
Further afield
Once upon a time the people of the small village of Zalipie
some 30km or so north of Tarnów had no chimneys in their
cottages. The smoke from the cottage fires, with no chimneys
to leave by, would slowly blacken the internal cottage walls.
Before important religious holidays the ladies of Zalipie would
paint lime over the blackened walls, but when progress gave
the good folk of Zalipie chimneys the necessity to paint the
walls died out. By this time the lime painting had developed
into a village tradition, and with the aid of coloured paint and
the borrowing of local folk art motifs it evolved into a unique
art form that saw both the insides and outsides of many of
the cottages in the village ablaze with extraordinary floral
patterns. During the 1930s the fame of the village spread,
and in 1948 the first competition to choose the best-painted
cottage began. An annual event since 1965, the weekend
following Corpus Christi sees the village’s best 20 or so paint-
ers (still almost exclusively women) applying new designs to
their cottages, wells, and even dog kennels in an attempt to
create the most original and creative designs. An otherwise
ordinary, rather sleepy village, Zalipie has become a popular
destination for tourists visiting the region throughout the year,
and is well worth a visit.
The oldest salt mine in Europe and Poland’s most ancient in-
dustrial site, Bochnia, some 45km southwest of Tarnów, has
been in continuous operation since 1248. Less well known
than the region’s Wieliczka mine, Bochnia is no less impres-
sive, and unlike Wieliczka offers visitors the chance to see a
working mine as well as enjoy its many tourist attractions. A
visit to Bochnia involves a hair-raising, ear-popping subter-
ranean adventure 200 metres below the ground, where you
can explore its winding maze of chambers, visit the mine’s
museum, spend the night in its very own hotel and even
celebrate New Year there. The recognised healing qualities
of salt also offers visitors the chance to extend their stay and
take in the mine’s so-called Inhalation Holiday.
More information about both of the out of town destinations
mentioned here, as well as hundreds of other fascinating
sights including the region’s 50 or so wooden churches, the
nearby castle and the many rural breaks on offer can be
obtained from the nice people at Tarnów’s Tourist Informa-
tion Centre.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centre Rynek 7, tel. 014 688
90 90, www.go-tarnow.com. Friendly, knowledgeable
English-speaking staff, a wide range of free information
on Tarnów and the surrounding region, free internet, a few
souvenirs and bicycle rental. Also available are nine audio
guides to the main sights which can be downloaded from
the website or hired along with a smal MP3 player. The
nice people here also have good value accommodation
in the same building and can give you information and
advice on the million other good things to do. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
TARNÓW 127
Jewish Tarnów
The first mention of Jews in Tarnów dates to 1445 with the
mentioning of a certain Kalef, a silk merchant from Lwów
(now the city of L’viv in western Ukraine). The first written
record of a synagogue can be traced to the 16th century,
and in 1667, Stanisław Koniecpolski, who then owned what
was still a private city, granted Tarnów’s Jewish population
the rights to a place of worship and their own cemetery.
Tarnów’s vibrant Jewish community included large numbers
of both Orthodox and Hasidic Jews, and the city remains a
site of pilgrimage for many modern Hasidic Jews. Tarnów’s
Jews formed a large part of the city’s intellectual and
cultural elite, among them several of the most prominent
lawyers, doctors, musicians, teachers and entrepreneurs,
although the vast majority were generally poor. On the day
WWII broke out in Europe there were about 25,000 Jews
living in Tarnów, making up over 40% of the city’s popula-
tion. The Ghetto was located in the area directly east of
the Rynek, where the majority of the Jewish population
already lived. Between June 1942 and September 1944
virtually the entire Jewish population of Tarnów were either
shot or deported, almost certainly to their deaths, ending
almost exactly 500 years of Jewish cultural life in the city.
A sinister footnote in the history of the Holocaust relates
to Tarnów; as early as October 20, 1939, Tarnów’s Jews
were forced to wear Star of David armbands, making this
the first town in Poland to do so.
The Nazi occupation of Tarnów during WWII ensured that
not only were the Jewish people obliterated, but that
their cultural monuments were also destroyed wherever
possible. Thanks in part to a rather uncharacteristic
sloppiness on the part of the Germans and the fact that
the city’s architecture came out of the war relatively
unscathed, a few traces of Tarnów’s Jewish past are still
visible, particularly in the area around the former Ghetto
immediately east of the Rynek between the two streets
Żydowska and Wekslarska. Żydowska (Jewish Street) is
the more interesting of the two, and features a few Jewish
remnants, most noticeably about half way down on the
left where a large open space marks the spot where the
former 17th-century synagogue stood. Burnt to the ground
by the Germans on the night of November 9, 1939, all that
remains are the four large columns and dome that made
up its bimah. The former Ghetto is worth a look around in
general, and still features one or two remains of mezuzah
boxes in the occasional doorway.
Nearby, just to the northeast at Pl. Bohaterów Getta
is the former Jewish Bath House where the first Jews
were transpor ted to Auschwitz in June 1940. Built
in a fanci ful Moorish style between 1900 and 1904,
the building still shows evidence of its former beauty,
but has been sadly ruined by th e creepy claws o f
Capitalism and is now home to a motley collection
of assorted businesses who prof fer their wares with
the help of several vulgar signs screwed onto every
available space on the building’s exterior. Close by is
the often overlooked memorial to the first 728 Jews
to be transported to Auschwitz.
The largest surviving relic of Tarnów’s living Jewish past
lies, literally and somewhat ironically, inside the four walls
that surround the city’s Jewish Cemetery. A 10-minute
walk north of the Old Town, just east of the junction of ul.
Słoneczna and ul. Matki Bożej Fatimskiej, the cemetery
was established in the early 1580s and is one of the oldest
and largest in Poland. With several thousand gravestones,
almost all of them untouched by the hands of both the Nazis
October - November 2008
128 TARNÓW GETTING AROUND 129

and Mother Nature, the Jewish Cemetery is a haunting albeit

necessary part of any visit to Tarnów. Seriously overgrown Train schedule Car rental Hertz, Balice Airport,
tel. 012 285 50 84,
in places, some areas near the main entrance can still be w w w.her tz.com.pl
easily reached, and the addition of several signs in English From Tarnów To Tarnów Avis J-2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel.
0 601 20 07 02, www.avis. also in Cracovia Hotel
marking a few of the graveyard’s more eminent souls is a Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.
pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat al. Focha 1.
welcome addition. Near the entrance is a large memorial 03:40 05:08 KRAKÓW 05:10 06:39
04:36 06:05 KRAKÓW 06:45 07:47 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30.
to the Jews of Tarnów, built from one of the columns of the
city’s destroyed New Synagogue. The cemetery’s original 05:46 07:15 KRAKÓW 07:36 09:00 Sun Open on request.
gates are now in Washington’s Holocaust Museum, and 06:57 08:25 KRAKÓW(1) 09:04 10:16
07:39 08:42 KRAKÓW 10:34 11:58 Joka D-4, ul.
their replacements are kept firmly locked. A key is kept Starowiślna 13, tel.
inside the Tarnów District Museum, and while this currently 08:38 09:48 KRAKÓW 11:08 12:15 Dragon- VIP rent a car, ul. Re- 0 601 54 53 68,
closed for renovation, it is possible to borrow a key to the 10:25 11:36 KRAKÓW 12:10 13:09 jtana 7, tel. 012 259 70 53, 509
11:36 12:45 KRAKÓW 13:19 14:25 www.joka.com.pl.
cemetary from the security guard at Rynek 20-21 by leav- 588 860. A wide choice of vehicles A wide range of cars from the baby Citroen C1 to the
ing a 25zł deposit. 13:37 15:01 KRAKÓW 14:20 15:47 from small cars like the Peugeot 207,
14:22 15:44 KRAKÓW 15:00 16:07 spacious Mercedes E220 CDi station wagon. All cars
through mid-size like the Peugeot are equipped with power assisted steering. Satellite
With what amounts to no Jews at all living in contempo- 15:40 17:05 KRAKÓW 15:45 17:14 308 to exclusive vehicles like the
16:33 17:41 KRAKÓW 16:40 18:08 navgation systems are also available. Special rates
rary Tarnów, very little work is being done to maintain Mercedes S320 and Audi A8. It is offered to those who order through the Joka website.
what Jewish heritage is left in the city. The efforts of a 17:31 18:56 KRAKÓW 17:45 19:08 also possible to hire a car with a driver. Delivery and
18:20 19:32 KRAKÓW 18:39 20:03 QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.
handful of heroic individuals and the support of organi- collection of cars in Kraków is free. GPS is also free of Sun Open on request.
sations like the Tourist Information Centre ensure that 19:39 20:40 KRAKÓW 20:11 21:16 charge.QOpen: 9:00- 18:00, sat 09:00- 14:00
Tarnów’s remaining Jewish history is kept very much 21:06 22:33 KRAKÓW 21:35 23:03
alive. For more information, visit the city’s Tourist In- 00:26 01:48 KRAKÓW 23:05 00:33
(1) - Mon - Fri National Car G-1, ul. Głowackiego 22 (Demel Hotel),
formation Centre, who publish a small, free booklet on
Trains are subject to change on public holidays.
Europcar I-1, ul. Szlak 2,
the subject, and have more comprehensive information tel. 012 633 77 73, www. tel. 012 636 86 30, www.nationalcar.com.pl. QOpen
on Tarnów’s remaining Jewish sights and their histories Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoing works 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Sun Open
europcar.pl. Europcar is
than is covered here. (track improvements). on request.
one of the biggest car rental companies offering many
For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl Sixt ul. Kapitana Medweckiego 1 (Balice Airport), tel.
rental options (both short and long term) that will suit all
012 639 32 16, www.sixt.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.
Museums other delights a celebration of local hero Józef Bem, glass,
needs (8 different categories of cars are available; Europcar
is present at all Polish airports and many other convenient
Diocesan Museum (Muzeum Diecezjalne) Pl. porcelain and silver, and the most extensive collection locations). Europcar creates flexible driving solutions to
Katedralny 6, tel. 014 621 99 93, www.muzeum. of 18th-century Samartian portraits in the country. Sar- meet your individual mobility needs. In doing so we deliver Trefl ul. Jasnogórska 11, tel. 012 626
diecezja.tarnow.pl. To paraphrase the late John Paul II, matism was a beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and excellence in services and benefits that are tailored to fulfil 04 86, www.trefl.pl. Q Open 24hrs.
the Church needs art to better understand what lies inside ideology that predominated the Polish nobility from the your specific requirements QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed
the soul of man, and Tarnów’s superb Diocesan Museum, 16th to the 19th century. Based on the mistaken and Sat, Sun. Also at Balice Airport, tel. 012 257 79 00.
established in 1888, does a very good job at doing just rather entertaining belief that Poles were descended from
that. An astonishing collection of religious art from the the Sarmatians, a loose confederation of ancient Iranian
15th century onwards housed inside an equally wonderful tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the centuries from
ensemble of 16th-century houses, highlights include some a set of values based on pacifism into a full-blown warrior
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from philosophy that endorsed horseback riding, outrageous
Małopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental clothing and
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art, of huge, handlebar moustaches. Q Closed until at least June
which the latter collection is often closed for reasons un- 2009 for renovation work
known. A marvellous and highly recommended experience.
Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00,
13:00-14:00. Closed Mon. Admission free. Rynek & The Old Town
Retaining its original layout of a raised central area
Ethnographic Museum (Muzeum Etnograficzne) of latticed streets and central market square (Rynek)
ul. Krakowska 10, tel. 014 622 06 25, www.muzeum. reached by stairways from a lower, oval-shaped en-
tarnow.pl. As well as highlighting local ethnographic tradi- compassing loop that was once the original city walls
tions this better than average collection includes a large and defensive towers, Tarnów’s exemplary Old Town
celebration of Roma (Gypsy) culture, which is allegedly the began li fe in the 14th century, although most of what
only such collection in Europe. A really remarkable exhibi- now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
tion tracing Roma culture in Tarnów since its beginnings the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
in around the 15th century via their fate at the hands of sizes by some fine Renaissance merchant houses dat-
the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up ing from the 16th to the 18th century. At the centre of
the exhibition include some excellent models, costumes the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a lovely 15th-century
and photographs, all of which are best seen with the aid building originally constructed in the Gothic style and
of a small and very good booklet, The Gypsies, written remodelled at the end of the 16th century in a classic
by the museum’s curator Adam Bartosz and available in Renaissance manner, and topped of f with an idiosyn-
English for just 3zł. There are still about 350 Roma living cratic, 30-metre pointed tower. Small compared to
in Tarnów, and their culture is still very much alive. In the its vast cousin 80km to the west, the Old Town is still
museum’s back garden find several traditional painted interesting enough to warrant a good investigation, and
Roma caravans. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 10:00 includes a fairly well preserved Jewish section to the
- 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sat. Admission east, one remaining defensive tower and a pleasant
4/2zł. Sun free. pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and fea-
turing several interesting buildings as well as a number
Tarnów District Museum (Ratusz) Rynek 20/21, of appealing statues. Complete with a multitude of
tel. 014 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Worth a good bars and restaurants, the Old Town is the main
visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this extraordi- social nucleus of the city, and has a really warm and
nary collection of exhibits on two floors includes among welcoming appeal.

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

130 GETTING AROUND
By car
Poland is one of Europe’s leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic
and, most of all, drivers who have no consideration for any-
body else result in the common sight of mangled wreckages
of cars around the country. Yes, the crosses you see beside
roadsides are there to mark fatal crashes. Police seem unwill-
ing to control irresponsible driving, and don’t be surprised to
see cars shooting through red lights, cutting each other up
and staking a claim for the Formula 1 championship. While we
do not advise against driving in Poland, we do wish to make
a number of points clear to the foreign driver.
The road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives
and funding but the size of the country’s road network as well
as its condition means that it’ll be years till improvements will
take effect. In fact the issue of the condition of the road and rail
networks are being cited by many experts as being a serious
handicap to the development of the Polish economy.
For someone taking to the road today the following warnings
should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of
built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single
lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an
old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge
fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly
find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said
lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient
drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking
sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe
distance between you and the vehicle in front.
Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the
vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used
as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette
Kraków In Your Pocket
by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add
in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become
a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing
down on your vehicle.
For those brave enough to venture out the following informa-
tion should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws:
0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about
having even a single beer - this did nothing to deter the prat
who was arrested outside Warsaw in September with a blood/
alcohol level of 9.5‰ (approximately 24 pints). You can use
your home driving license or an international driving permit for
six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your
license and passport at all times if you’re driving.
The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00
and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 110km/hr on
dual carriageways and 130km/hr on motorways. All cars are
required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid kit, replacement
bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new law was introduced
in April 2007 making it compulsory to have headlights switched
on at all times. Car related crime is high and drivers should make
use of guarded car parks where possible.
Ask a Krakowian about driving in the city these days and you
are likely to be buried in an avalanche of frustration. Thanks
in large to the major road improvement projects going on at
various key junctions around the city, driving is an increas-
ingly torturous pastime. That, the sheer volume of traffic
and the number of no-turn signs make getting from A to B
more complicated than it would appear and use of the tram
system is highly recommended. Parking is available under
large P parking signs with tickets available from the wardens
patrolling the streets.
Guarded Parking D-3, ul Westerplatte 18 (entrance
from ul. Zyblikiewicza 1), tel. 012 421 25 60.
Guarded Parking J-1, ul. Kamienna 2 (entrance from
Al. Słowackiego), tel. 012 633 69 81.
By train
Kraków’s main railway station (Dworzec Główny) is conve-
niently situated at the northern tip of the Old Town. To get to
it walk through the subway which leads under ul. Basztowa/ul.
Westerplatte and you’ll find yourself on a large granite floored
plaza right in front of the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska.
The train station building is to your right.
Trains from here run to most major cities in Poland with trains
to Warsaw leaving hourly for most of the day between 04:55
and 19:55. Journey time to Warsaw is three hours on an
express train. Tickets for internal trips can be purchased at
any counter, and can even be bought in advance. Indeed, if
you want a seat on a particular train it is best to book ahead.
Tickets for the shuttle service to Kraków Balice airport are
purchased on-board the train direct from the conductor.
International tickets are bought at the kasa zagraniczna
(windows N°9 and 10), open 05:00-23:00 in the main station
building, or from the Orbis travel agency at Rynek Główny
41. Information about ticket prices and general information
is available at windows N°9 and 10, or take the plunge and
check the Polish railways website at www.pkp.pl. Note that
the homepage is only in Polish at present but ‘z’ means
‘from’ and ‘do’ means ‘to’ making it reasonably simple to
use the search function in the top right hand corner. Once
you receive results there is functionality to allow you to
change languages.
Departures boards (odjazdy) are indicated by their yellow
timetables, arrivals boards (przyjazdy) are the white ones.
InterCity (IC), EuroCity (EC) and express trains are quicker
and more expensive than normal trains, and warrant a
GETTING AROUND 131
reservation. If you have an InterRail Pass, you still must pay
for seat reservations and sleeper cars where necessary. If
you’re in a hurry, you can pay for your ticket on the train if you
announce this to the conductor before boarding and pay a
small extra charge.
There are Currency Exchange booths (kantor) in the subway
beneath the platforms and in the main hall, though opening
hours were subject to change at press time. A Euronet ATM
(bankomat) lurks in the tunnel, and you’ll find a PKO ATM and
‘Cash For You’ ATM in the main hall. The tunnel also houses a
Tourist Info point (open 06:00 - 22:00). These guys have the
usual display of pamphlets, can organize tours and stock In
Your Pocket. Both sections of the station - the subterranean
tunnel and the main hall - have left luggage lockers. A large
piece of luggage will cost 8zł for one day, and a small one 4zł.
Make sure you have change.
Main Railway Station (Dworzec główny) E-2, Pl.
Jana Nowaka- Jeziorańskiego, tel. 012 393 15 80, www.
rozklad.pkp.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 24hrs.
October - November 2008
132 GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND 133

Train smarts Train schedule Public transport By bus

Both International buses and local mini-buses arrive and
The Polish rail network is generally in decent shape even if From Kraków To Kraków While Krakow has no metro sys- depart from the brand new terminal on ul. Bosacka 18 (E-1).
the rolling stock is by and large something you may have Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr. tem it does have an integrated It’s right behind the train station and can be accessed by the
travelled on in Italy some years ago. Certainly better than 07:31 17:39 BERLIN Hbf 09:40 19:44 bus and tram system which runs same tunnels that give you access to the platforms. Follow
Britain’s railways; you’ll find most trains run on time, are 20:07 08:05 BERLIN-Lichtenberg 21:31 09:20 from 05:00 - 23:00, with some signs for Dworzec Autobusowy and you’ll find yourself in a
cheap, and don’t crash. Travelling times are generally pretty 12:10 21:27 BUDAPEST 08:35 17:45 night buses continuing after that. two-story building on the opposite side of the train station
slow even on express and Intercity trains with limited high- 22:25 08:32 BUDAPEST 20:00 06:22 To buy tickets, look for the sign from the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska. If you’re head-
speed sections of track throughout the country. That is 05:55 14:00 GDYNIA(2) 05:05 13:00 sprzedaż biletów MPK in kiosks ing to Zakopane then your best option will be to get a bus,
being remedied but in turn this is causing increased travelling 09:55 18:04 GDYNIA 06:53 15:00 or pay an additional 0.50zł and as opposed to a train, and you’ll find buses departing more
times on many lines. Tickets are by western standards very 11:55 20:04 GDYNIA 08:52 17:00 bu y a ticket from the dri ver. or less hourly, with journey time taking around two hours.
cheap with a first -class ticket to Kraków from Warsaw for 13:55 21:44 (3)GDYNIA 12:52 21:00 One-trip tickets (one trip being These are proper coaches and leave from the upper level
instance setting you back about 130zł (about €35). 15:55 23:52 GDYNIA 14:52 23:06 one journey on a tram or bus not a point to point journey with tickets available from the ticket office in the station. For
18:12 05:24 GDYNIA 18:56 06:05 using different trams and buses) cost 2.50zł, one-hour Zakopane bus times you can check www.rda.krakow.pl which
The state-owned Polish rail network PKP run several types 22:53 10:20 GDYNIA 23:25 10:45 tickets 3.10zł, 24-hour tickets 10.40zł, 48-hour tickets at present is only in Polish. Click on odjazdy and then type
of train. Intercity (also known as Eurocity or just IC) trains 01:53 03:29 KATOWICE 01:21 03:02 18.80zł, 72-hour tickets 25zł, 7-day tickets 38zł and in the town you wish to travel to. Remember ‘do’ is ‘to’ and
are the fastest, newest and most expensive of the lot, 06:53 08:29 KATOWICE 06:39 08:22 monthly passes 67.80zł for two lines. ‘od’ is ‘from’ in Polish.
with first and second class compartments holding up to 11:53 13:29 KATOWICE 10:54 12:26 For buses to places like Wieliczka and Auschwitz you are likely
six people. New rolling stock is appearing with open car- 15:17 16:51 KATOWICE 13:15 14:55 Of particular interest to families is the family ticket avail- to be travelling by mini-bus. These leave from the ground
riages and 220v AV sockets. Ekspress are supposed to 19:45 21:53 KATOWICE 15:39 17:21 able for travel on Saturdays and Sundays. For a price of floor and generally independent small businesses. Tickets
be older and slower and pack more people into less space 21:53 23:29 KATOWICE 20:25 22:03 10.40zł a family of up to 5 people (2 adults, 3 children for these are avaiable directly from the driver.
than the former, but this distinction is slowly disappearing 13:19 10:21 KYIV Pass 20:42 15.44 under the age of 16) can enjoy unlimited travel on all Jordan D-2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. 012 422 60 91, www.
as both tracks and rolling stock get older. Use either of 21:28 14:28 (4)KYIV Pass day-routes in Krakow. One adult should write their details jordan.pl. English-speaking tour company with buses avail-
the above for long-distance journeys. Both come with 04:25 06:15 OŚWIĘCIM 08:08 09:50 on the space provided on the reverse of the ticket and able for hire which also acts as a vendor for other company’s
dining carriages, though be warned, anyone falling asleep 06:40 08:05 OŚWIĘCIM 11:20 13:03 stamp it when they get on board the first bus or tram. ID scheduled bus services. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
will incur the full wrath of the steward. Smokers should 07:00 08:17 OŚWIĘCIM 15:39 17:31 should also be carried.
09:15 10:42 OŚWIĘCIM 17:39 19:37 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
not make the mistake of booking a seat in a smoking Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
compartment - you will die within minutes. Cheapskates 11:05 12:30 OŚWIĘCIM 19:49 21:19 Rucksacks, boxes or bags larger than 20x40x60cm no
14:40 16:06 OŚWIĘCIM 20:27 22:10 ul. Bosacka 18, tel. 012 393 52 52, www.rda.krakow.
looking to cut costs should opt for the markedly cheaper longer require a seperate ticket. Note that ISIC or other pl. Q Ticket Office Open 06:00-21:00.
Tanie Linie Kolejowe (TLK), Pospieszny (posp) or Osobowy 07:00 13:59 PRAHA HL.N. 14:06 21:19 foreign student cards are valid for significant discounts.
(os.) trains; you will pay buttons for the privilege, but your PRAHA HL.N. 21:24 06:22 Most importantly, simply having a ticket does not give
journey is guaranteed to try your good humour. 22:25 06:48
05:55 08:50
PRAHA-Smichov
WARSAW 00:19 06:05
you the right to travel. You MUST stamp your ticket Minibuses
immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small Krakow Shuttle I-1, ul. Szlak 26/23, tel. 012 633 01
With the exception of pociąg osobowy trains, ticket 06:10 11:06 WARSAW(1) 06:05 09:00 machines on-board. Beware that inspectors regularly
06:55 09:50 WARSAW(2) 07:05 10:00 25, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Kraków and
prices include a seperate seat reservation charge. More travel on the lines handing out fines to those without Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to reach
information on train times and prices check the very 07:55 10:50 WARSAW(1) 08:05 10:59 valid or proper tickets. They are obliged to carry ID and
08:12 13:15 WARSAW 09:05 11:58 sights in and around the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). QOpen
useful www.pkp.pl which has an English option. There to show it upon request. 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
09:55 12:50 WARSAW(2) 10:05 13:00
is the functionality to book tickets online once you have
10:12 15:05 WARSAW 10:50 16:10
registered (https://bilet.intercity.pl/irez/index.jsp) but An option worth noting is
you will need the help of a Polish speaker present. This
11:55 14:50
12:12 17:23
WARSAW(1)
WARSAW
11:05 14:00
12:05 15:00 that the Krakow Tourist Taxis
option allows you to book a ticket and seat in one without 13:55 16:50 (3)WARSAW 14:05 17:00 Card (see what to see Most taxis are reliable and use their metres without fiddling
the hassle of queuing at the station. 14:55 17:50 (1)WARSAW 14:50 20:11 section) includes unlim- around, but beware of the cowboys waiting outside the train
15:55 18:50 WARSAW(1) 15:05 18:00 ited travel in the price. station and certain hotels. Make sure your cab has a large sign
If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train 16:55 19:50 (3)WARSAW 16:05 19:00 It can be picked up at all on the roof with phone number and company name, make sure
station then you’ll be pleased to hear you can hop on the 18:00 20:49 WARSAW 16:50 22:11 the main tourist informa- the driver turns on the meter and you’ll be fine. If you need a
desired train and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. 18:55 21:50 WARSAW 17:05 20:01 tion points and selected taxi from the station, walk up the stairs from the platforms
You’ll pay a small surcharge for this (approx 8zł), and 19:55 22:50 (1)WARSAW 18:05 21:00 hotels, hostels and travel agencies. If you plan to spend to find reliable Radio Taxi 9191 on the rooftop parking lot.
credit cards are now accepted. Travellers are expected 22:53 04:50 WARSAW 20:05 23:00 time sightseeing and travelling further than the old town Expect to pay 7zł plus about 2.30zł per kilometre.
to greet others in their compartment with a curt ‘dzien 06:53 11:25 WROCŁAW 06:15 10:56 square it definitely saves a lot of hassle with having to
dobry’, and it is taken as given that a male passenger 09:53 14:25 WROCŁAW 10:15 14:55 deal with kiosk owners and trying to figure out which Barbakan Taxi tel. 012 96 61
will help females or the elderly with any heavy baggage. 12:53 17:25 WROCŁAW 13:15 17:55 ticket to buy. Euro Taxi tel. 012 96 64
15:17 19:50 WROCŁAW 17:15 22:03 City Taxi tel. 012 96 21
Travelling by train should hold no fear, though you may have 17:53 22:24 WROCŁAW 18:20 22:48 Mega Taxi tel. 012 96 25
the misfortune of sharing a compartment with a woman 21:53 03:00 WROCŁAW 22:15 03:02 Radio Taxi tel. 012 91 91
who has no qualms with silencing errant children with a 05:06 08:55 ZAKOPANE 05:30 08:46
thump to the head. Or even worse, sharing a compartment 06:15 10:15 ZAKOPANE 12:30 16:15
with perky army discharges. Upgrading to first class for a 07:48 11:17 ZAKOPANE 14:25 17:57 Travel agents
cursory fee is usually enough to avoid these pitfalls. 11:23 15:05 ZAKOPANE 17:17 20:51 Jan Pol ul. Misiołka 8 (Grzegórzki), tel. 0 602 51 58
14:44 18:18 ZAKOPANE 19:00 22:38 64, www.janpol.com. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00
Finally most stations throughout the country are ap- 18:30 21:54 ZAKOPANE - 15:00. Closed Sun.
palling lacking in signs denoting the station name and Jordan C-1, ul. Długa 9, tel. 012 421 21 25, www.
(1) mon-fri (2) mon-sat (3) mon-fri, sun
it’s surprisingly easy to miss your stop. Communicating jordan.pl. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.
(4) Runs Wed, Fri, Sun.
with your fellow passengers can save a lot of time and Closed Sun.
Most trains running to and from Gdynia (Berlin apart)
frustration. Marco der Pole C-5, ul. Kanonicza 15, tel. 012 430 21
stop at Gdańsk and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes
to Gdańsk and 10 to Sopot. Trains are subject to change 31, www.marcoderpole.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Arrivals Przyjazdy Closed Sat, Sun.
on public holidays. Train schedule is subject to change
Departures Odjazdy Orbis Travel C-3, Rynek Główny 41, tel. 012 619 24
due to ongoing works (track improvements).
Platform Peron 59, www.orbis.krakow.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
For a full schedule check www.pkp.pl
09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

134 MAIL & PHONES SHOPPING 135

Express mail Wi-fi access While Kraków cannot be considered a shoppers paradise in
the traditional sense of the word, its artsy reputation make it
Multi Media interguide Guide to Kraków
(English, German and Polish versions) includes
The fastest way to get mail from city to city within Poland is a great place to pick up antiques, artwork, jewellery. Areas of 2,700 pictures of Kraków and surroundings
the Polish railway mail service. Bring your labelled parcel If you’re travelling with the laptop then you’ll find a growing number note include Kazimerz, as well as the streets of old town. For along with detailed descriptions of all sights.
and the 25zł fee to the conductor’s compartment (signposted, of internet hotspots in and around central Kraków. All three of typical Kraków-style souvenirs head to the Cloth Hall in the Get acquainted with Kraków’s sights and
Poland’s mobile networks offer Wi-Fi connection, and you will be
usually next to the restaurant car). Let the recipient know when centre of the main square: find all manner of glasswork, lace, monuments, both the world-famous and
able to go online in most of their major retail outlets.
the train arrives so he can meet the it at the station; the pack- amber, wood carvings, local sweets and stuffed dragons. For the locally treasured. A per fect present
age is handed over after mentioning the adressee. W Throughout our guide we have highlighted those the generic western experience hit one of the shopping malls and a fantastic souvenir. Find the Guide in
establishments (hotels, cafés, restaurants and bars) which we list. Most shops operate from 11:00-19:00. EMPiK and other major
offer wireless free internet connection. This covers both
TNT I-1, ul. Władysława Łokietka 79, tel. 012 614 46 46, free access, where you are likely to need a network key and
bookstores.
www.tnt.com.pl. QOpen 08:00 - 16:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
UPS B-2, ul. Karmelicka 55, tel. 012 631 20 66, www.
password from the bar/reception, and paid access where you
will have to buy a card. Most places will have cards available
24h shops
mbe.com.pl. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. for sale. A typical choice is the cards necessary for Orange Handlowa Spódzielnia Jubilat H-3, Al. Krasińskiego Closed Sun.
hotspots. You can buy a card for a straight 2 hours connection 1-3, tel. 012 422 80 40, www.jubilat.com.pl. Art De&Co C-4, Pl. Dominikański 4/1st floor, tel. 012
Kefirek C-4, ul. Grodzka 46, tel. 012 433 75 20, www. 423 22 46, www.antyki.krakow.pl. Q Open 10:00 -
Internet or you can pay 19zł for a card which allows you 2 hours
connection over a period of 2 months. Useful if you don’t want kefirek.pl. 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
If you have a normal PC with a modem you can log-on to the to use up 2 hours wi-fi time in one go. In both cases you will Oczko C-6, ul. Stradomska 23, tel. 012 421 71 41. Salon Antyków i Galeria Connaisseur C-3, Rynek
internet via Telekomunikacja Polska and pay only the cost be given a scratch card which carries a number. Główny 11, tel. 012 421 02 34, w w w.koneser.
Poproszę kartę vifi – please can I have a wifi card. krakow.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.
of a local call. (0.35zl/3min, after 18:00 0.35zl/6min) Dial tel.
(+48-12) 020 21 22, username: ppp, password: ppp. Alcohol Closed Sun.
You’ll find internet cafés on practically every street in the R7 Shop C-3, Rynek Główny 7, tel. 012 422 99 81.
city centre. Expect to pay anything from 2-6zł per hour. Con-
nection speeds can be erratic.
Country codes QOpen 09:00 - 23:45, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
Szambelan C-3, ul. Gołębia 2, tel. 012 628 70 93, www. Books & Paper
Internet providers abound who can set you surfing the Albania 355 Germany 49 Portugal 351 szambelan.com.pl. Huge selection of vodkas including pep- Empik Megastore C-3, Rynek Główny 5, tel. 012 429
internet. Keep in mind that prices can vary greatly, so it’s Australia 61 Greece 30 Romania 40 per vodka, mountain ash vodka, mead and Polish absynth. 67 23, www.empik.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
best to shop around before choosing one. Austria 43 Hungary 36 Russia 7 The exotic bottles make for ideal last minute gifts. QOpen Księgarnia Hetmańska C-3, Rynek Główny 17, tel.
Belarus 375 Ireland 353 Slovakia 421 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Y 012 430 24 53, www.hetmanska.pl. QOpen 09:00 -
Vinoteca La Bodega C-2, ul. Sławkowska 12, tel. 012
Internet cafes Belgium 32
Bulgaria 359
Israel
Italy
972
39
Slovenia
Spain
386
34 425 49 81, www.bodega.pl. Over 400 wines from across
21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
Massolit Books & Cafe A-4, ul. Felicjanek 4/2, tel.
Garinet C-2, ul. Floriańska 18, tel. 012 423 22 33 ext. Canada 1 Japan 81 Sweden 46 the world. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 012 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. QOpen 10:00 -
23, www.garinet.pl. 4zł/hour, printing and cd-burning avail- Croatia 385 Latvia 371 Switzerland 41 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
able. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Czech Rep. 420 Lithuania 370 Turkey 90 Matras C-3, Rynek Główny 23, tel. 012 422 56 98,
PcNet H-3, ul. Kościuszki 82, tel. 012 411 26 88, Denmark 45 Moldova 373 UK 44 Antiques www.matras.pl/krakow. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat
www.pcnet.biz. 3zł/hour. Printing and cd-burning available. Estonia 372 Netherlands 31 Ukraine 380 Antyki. Maciej Widurski D-4, ul. Starowiślna 10, tel. 10.00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Finland 358 Norway 47 USA 1 012 431 00 56. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00.
Po Schodkach A-1, ul. Batorego 25, tel. 012 632 France 33 Poland 48 Yugoslavia 381
70 99, www.poschodkach.com. 3zł/hour. Printing and
cd-burning available. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. Telephone Changes
TPSA, Poland’s telephone provider, started 2006 by
Mobile phones changing the way numbers are dialled. In brief: If you’re
Era GSM H-1, ul. Królewska 67, tel. 012 623 18 00, www. phoning from land line to land line it is now necessary
era.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. to include the local area code, even if you are phoning
Orange A-3, ul. Piłsudskiego 22, tel. 012 421 65 76, www.or- from within the city. Therefore the prefix 012 must be
ange.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. used for all Kraków numbers. This also applies to four
digit call centre numbers.
Plus GSM H-1, ul. Królewska 57, tel. 012 396 21 50,
www.plusgsm.pl. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun. Nothing has changed when phoning from mobile phones
to land lines (Era and Orange networks still use the prefix
12, while Plus use 012). We use local numbers in all list-
Post ings hence the appearance of 10-digit numbers. In the
case of our advertisers you will find one of two forms
Post Office D-4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. 012 421 44 being used. Either the local 10-digit number or the inter-
89, www.poczta-polska.pl. One of the better post offices national dialling form of the number. Please note that it is
in Poland, the Poczta Główna is on the corner of ul. Wester- not possible to use the international form of the number
platte, on the eastern rim of the Planty. Collect poste restante when phoning from a land line, though it is possible to use
letters from window (okienko) N°1. You do not need to take that form when calling from a mobile telephone.
a queue ticket if you want to send parcels (windows N°1-4)
or buy stamps (windows N°2-14). Window N°14 is designed
for wheelchair access. QOpen 07:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 -
14:00. Closed Sun.
Polish city codes
Use one of the prefixes when calling inter-city in Poland.
Bielsko-Biała 033 Opole 077
Postal rates Gdańsk 058 Poznań 061
Cracow, 25 Grodzka Street, phone: + 48 (12) 421 11 34
Warsaw, CH Arkadia, 82 Al. Jana Pawła II, phone: + 48 (22) 331 34 34
Katowice 032 Szczecin 097
The going price for a non-priority letter under 50g: Koszalin 094 Tarnów 014 Warsaw, Galeria Mokotów, 12 Wołoska Street, phone: + 48 (22) 541 32 71
Poland 1.35zł Kraków 012 Warsaw 022
Europe 2.40zł Łódż 042 Wrocław 071
The rest of the world 2.50zł Lublin 081 Zakopane 018

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

136 SHOPPING
Galeria Krakowska
Galeria Krakowska D-1, ul. Pawia 5, tel. 012 428
99 00, www.galeria-krakowska.pl. Covering 60,000
square metres over three floors, the Galeria Krakowska
has brought big time shopping to Krakow in a big way. If
you arrived by train (or came in by train from the airport)
it is unlikely you missed this place: a huge glass and steel
shopping Mecca opposite the old station building, which
as malls go makes it one of the most centrally located in
Europe. The Centre has made a huge contribution to the
regeneration of an area that once was home to all manner
of shacks and huts and the development includes a new
square as well as access to the train platforms next door.
Stores housed here include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg,
electronics giant Saturn, children’s emporium SMYK and
an enormous Carrefour supermarket as well as over 260
other retail units, 1400 car parking spaces and an enter-
tainment centre and restaurants. Right outside, sitting
on the newly built square you will find the Andel’s Hotel,
complete with on-site bars and restaurants. QOpen
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
Kraków In Your Pocket
Gifts & Souvenirs
Cloth Hall (Sukiennice) C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3. Prob-
ably your best option for Krakow gifts with many stalls selling
lace, cloth, carvings and all sorts of souvenirs of Poland.
Galeria Bukowski C-3, ul. Sienna 1, tel. 012 433 88
55, www.galeriabukowski.pl. Specializes in teddy bears.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Osobliwości Este (The Peculiarity Gallery
ESTE) C-2, ul. Sławkowska 16, tel. 012 429 19 84,
www.este.krakow.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11.00
- 15.00. Closed Sun.
Gzik-Art ul. Balicka 56, pavilion 22, tel. 012 267 36
28, www.gzikart.com.pl. QOpen 06:00 - 12:00, Sat
06:00 - 10:00. Closed Sun.
Jewellery
Boruni Amber Inspirations C-3, Rynek Główny 1/3
(Cloth Hall), tel. 012 430 24 01, www.boruni.pl. Also at
ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5), ul. Floriańska 42 (C-2), ul. Kanonicza 22
(C-5) and ul. Straszewskiego 17 (I-3, Radisson SAS Hotel).
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Red Rubin (Red Ruby) C-4, ul. Grodzka 25, tel. 012
421 11 34, www.redrubin.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Perfume & Beauty
L’Occitane C-3, Rynek
Główny 13 (Pasaż 13),
tel. 012 617 02 05,
www.loccitane.pl. Drawing inspiration from Mediter-
ranean art de vivre, L’occitane creates beauty products
devoted to your well-being and that of the environment,
rich in active natural ingredients and oils and dermatolo-
gist-tested - not animal-tested. Also at ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, Open 09:00-22:00, Sun 10:00-21:00).
QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Sephora C-3, ul. Floriańska 19, tel. 012 421 24 24,
www.sephora.pl. Also on Rynek Główny 5 (C-3), Al. Pokoju
44 (L-2), Al. Pokoju 67 (Czyżyny), Al. Bora-Komorowskiego
37 (L-1), ul. Pawia 5 (D-1), ul. Podgórska 34 (J-3). QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Yves Rocher C-4, ul. Grodzka 16, tel. 012 430 19 96,
www.yves-rocher.com.pl. Also on Al. Bora-Komorowskiego
37 (L-1), ul. Zakopiańska 62 (Łagiewniki), ul. Podgórska 34
(K-3), ul. Pawia 5 (D-1), Al. Pokoju 44 (L-2). QOpen 10:00 -
19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 16:00.
Speciality shops
Calik Gallery C-3, Rynek Główny 7/5, tel. 012 421
77 60, www.calik.pl. A wide selection of hand-decorated
traditional Polish Christmas baubles. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Krakowski Kredens C-3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel. 012 423 81 59.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Pożegnanie z Afryką C-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 21, tel. 012
644 47 45, www.pozegnanie.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Watches & Jewellery
Apart J-3, ul. Podgórska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz), tel. 012
433 11 41, www.apart.pl. Also on Al. Pokoju 67 (Czyżyny).
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
SHOPPING 137
Galeria Kazimierz
Galeria Kazimierz E-7, ul. Podgórska 34, tel. 012
433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl. Opened in 2005
the success of Galeria Kazimierz has marked another
step in Kraków’s economic renaissance and the mall
rates as the most prestigious in the region. Boasting
over 130 retail units fashion stores include Morgan, H&M,
Zara and New Yorker, as well as cosmetic specialists such
as Sephora, Marrionaud and Superpharm. Also on-site
are an EMPiK megastore, Sony Centrum, Euro RTV AGD,
and revered jewelers W. Kruk, Svarowski, Zibi and Swiss.
The Alma supermarket offers Kraków’s premier selec-
tion of food and beverages, while those preferring a sit
down meal can choose from the American themed Jeff’s
restaurant or Pizza Hut. For recreational needs Galeria
Kazimierz also touts a ten screen Cinema City complex,
while a currency exchange office and information desk
cement its status as visitor friendly.
Situated next to the Kazimierz district the mall is easily
accessed on foot, though you can also take the free
Galeria bus from a list of locations around town (for info
see web page). Those arriving by car have 1,800 car
parking spaces to pick from. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
Shop outside the Box
Seriously, skip the Sukiennice for souvenirs and get
yourself a genuine Krakowian keepsake this time. All
manner of strange Soviet relics and Catholic reliquaries,
unpredictable antiques and mysterious ephemera can
be found at Hala Targowa’s unmissable Sunday morning
flea market (E-4, ul. Grzegórzecka)—but you’ll have to
get there before 14:00. If that fails, investigate Poland’s
proud graphic art tradition at the fine Galeria Plakaty
poster gallery (C-3, Stolarska 8-10), which also stands
as one of the best places to pick up unique postcards.
Alternatively, gentlemen can outfit themselves with a
surprisingly stylish assortment of very Polish hats at
the genuine hatmakers’ shop hidden in Kazimierz (D-7, ul.
Krakowska) across from Plac Wolnica (look for the blue
sign marked ‘Czapki’)—an old-world leftover that’s very
worth the visit. Finally, if you still need something stellar
to send the home team (or covet for yourself), you can’t
fail with booze. Visit Szambelan (C-3, ul. Gołębia 2) for an
amazing selection of specialty vodkas and oils decanted
from enormous shapely flasks. Various fruit, herb, honey
and pepper vodkas are available, as well as Polish absin-
thes, all packed and wrapped beautifully in sexy bottles.
Or go ghetto-fab and fill your own recycled water bottle
(lighter to ship or stroll around town). Remember: best to
sample before you select!
October - November 2008
138 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 139

Russia B-1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. 012 422 26 47, www.

24-hour pharmacies
Apteka I-5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. 012 656 18 50.
Apteka Flos J-4, ul. Bocheńska 1, tel. 012 281 19 03.
Apteka Vena-Vita ul. Wolska 1 (Podgórze Duchackie),
tel. 012 265 29 70, www.vena-vita.pl.
Computer repair
poland.mid.ru.
UK B-3, ul. Św. Anny 9, tel. 012 421 70 30, www.
britishembassy.pl.
Ukraine K-2, Al. Beliny-Prażmowskiego 4, tel. 012
429 60 66.
USA C-3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. 012 424 51 00.
International schools
British International School of Cracow A-4, ul.
Smoleńsk 25, tel. 012 292 64 78, www.bisc.krakow.
pl.
International School of Kraków ul. Św. Floriana 57
(Swoszowice), tel. 012 270 14 09, www.iskonline.org.
Children from 3 to 16 years.

Bit Computer D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 5-7, tel. 012 422 86 Dentists
36, www.bitcomputer.pl. Denta-Med J-4, ul. Na Zjeździe 13, tel. 012 259 80 00,
PcNet H-3, ul. Kościuszki 82, tel. 012 411 26 88, www.denta-med.com.pl.
www.pcnet.biz. Dent America B-2, Pl. Szczepański 3, tel. 012 421 89
48, www.dentamerica.pl.
Studio Stomatologii Estetycznej B-1, ul. Batorego
Conference organisers 6/2, tel. 012 633 20 38, www.studiose.med.pl.
Language schools
International Language Centers B-4, ul. Zwier-
zyniecka 15/9a, tel. 012 429 67 88, www.ibes.pl.
The Centre for Polish Studies os. Oświecenia 6/2,
tel. 0 601 59 32 17, www.learnpolish.edu.pl.

Krakowskie Centrum Konferencyjne Dwór w

Tomaszowicach (Tomaszowice Manor) ul. Krakowska
68, Tomaszowice, tel. 012 419 20 00, www.dwor.pl.
Consulates & embassies
Austria H-2, ul. Krupnicza 42, tel. 012 424 99 30, www.
aussenministerium.at/krakaugk. Visas, ul. Cybulskiego 9
(A-9), tel. 012 424 99 40.
Denmark B-3, ul. Św. Anny 5, tel. 012 421 73 80, www.
nordichouse.pl.
Germany C-3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. 012 424 30 00, www.
krakau.diplo.de.
Hungary C-2, ul. Św. Marka 9, tel. 012 422 56 79.
Instytut Francuski C-4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel. 012 424
53 00, www.cracovie.org.pl.
Mexico ul. Wiedeńska 72, tel. 012 636 52 59.
Norway H-1, ul. Mazowiecka 25, tel. 012 633 03 76,
www.amb-norwegia.pl.
Genealogy Spa, Hair & Beauty
Registry Office (Urząd Stanu Cywilnego) I-1, ul.
Lubelska 27, tel. 012 616 55 15, www.bip.krakow.pl.
CHAIYO Thai Massage Centre
E-4, ul. Dietla 103/2, tel. 012
Hairdressers & barbers 422 65 49, 0 607 505 549,
Jean Louis David B-3, ul. Szewska 22, tel. 012 421 73 w w w.tajskimasa z.pl. Au th en ti c
61, www.jld.com.pl. Also on ul. Bracka 13 (C-3). Thai massage improves blood and DHARM
DHARMA
AR MATA
A ASSIIAN
N MAS
ASSSA
SSA
AG
GEEC
CEN
NTR
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Salon Camille Albane A-2, ul. Karmelicka 28, tel. 012 lymphatic circulation, releases physical
633 58 45, www.camillealbane.pl. and psychological tension, strengthens the immune
Salon Fryzjerski Dziedzic A-3, ul. Garncarska 8, tel. system, improves flexibility of the joints, removes toxins. Open: Mon-Sun 10:00 - 22.00
012 423 16 55, www.dziedzic.krakow.pl. Massages are performed by Thai masseurs trained at the
Wat Po Temple in Bangkok. Q Massages 100-300zł. ul. Garbarska 5/5, 31-131 Kraków
Trendy F-3, ul. Piastowska 8, tel. 012 625 42 04, www.
hairsalongalaxy.com. tel: 012/423 00 58, gsm: +48/669 689 886
VIP Studio Pięknej Urody E-2, ul. Lubicz 5, tel. 012 Ambra D-3, ul. Św. Krzyża 11, tel. 012 431 12 88, dharmata@home.pl, www.dharmata.home.pl
422 23 57. www.ambra.net.pl. Beauty salon offering standard
range of consultations, manicures and pedicures, as well
as chocolate therapy...
Ambra Day Spa B-2, Pl. Szczepański 6/8, tel. 012 Opticians
421 66 66, www.ambraspa.pl. Pamper yourself to high Vision Express I-1, Al. Słowackiego 64, tel. 012 632 32
heaven in this wonderful new little day spa. A wide range of 29, www.visionexpress.pl. Also on ul. Zakopiańska 62.
treatments on offer to make any lady feel rather special. Voigt - Optyk C-2, ul. Floriańska 47, tel. 012 422 34
62, www.voigt-optyk.pl.
Hair Salons in Krakow Dharmata Massage
Center B-2, ul. Garbarska
5/5, tel. 012 423 00 58, 0
Private clinics
669 68 98 86. We provide Ars Medica D-1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. 012 423 38
professional massage ser- 34, www.ars-medica.com.pl.
Galeria Krakowska vices by registered therapists from Bali and the islands of Lux-Med I-5, ul. Wadowicka 6, tel. 0 801 80 08 08,
Indonesia, incorporating elements of yoga, acupuncture www.luxmed.pl.
ul. Pawia 5 and reflexology. Applying natural oils, deep movements of Medicina A-6, ul. Barska 12, tel. 012 266 96 65, www.
tel. +48 12 628 7327 the therapist loosen and free tensions, correct blood cir- medicina.pl.
culation and metabolism, improve the physical and mental Medicover J-2, ul. Rakowicka 7, tel. 0 804 22 95 96,
open: state, quiet the mind, reduce anxiety and streamline the www.medicover.pl. Also at Al. Jana Pawła II 190 (Czyżyny),
Mon. - Sat. 9 am - 10 pm immunological and nervous arrangement. Massages: ul. Bobrzyńskiego 37 (Dębniki)
100 -300zł. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Royal Medical A-5, ul. Zwierzyniecka 29, tel. 012 431
Sun. 10 am - 9 pm 15 85, www.royalmedical.pl.
Offer: Balinese classic Massage, Aromatherapy Javanese
massage, Thai classic massage, Warm Stone Massage,

ul. Szewska 22
Reflexology, Shiatsu massage and Hawaiian lomi lomi
massage made by two therapists.
Relocation companies
tel. +48 12 621 7361 Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara
Farmona Wellness & SPA ul. Jugowicka 10c Iwniczna-Piaseczno, tel. 022 737 72 00, www.corstjens.com.
ul. Bracka 13 (Łagiewniki), tel. 012 252 70 20, www.spakrakow.pl. Worldwide removal services, excellent storage facilities and reloca-
Laime Centrum Kosmetyki Estetycznej A-4, ul. tions to and within Europe. Office and local moves also handled.
tel. +48 12 423 0025 Retoryka 17/1, tel. 012 431 01 66, www.laime.pl.
open: Rid yourself of wrinkles and other imprefections courtesy
of these friendly experts. Translators & interpreters
Mon. - Fri. 9 am - 8 pm Metamorfoza C-3, ul. Stolarska 13, tel. 012 421 Eurokrak C-5, ul. Stradomska 16/1, tel. 0 601 867
Sat. 9 am - 4 pm 91 48, www.metamorfoza.eu. 508, www.eurokrak.pl.
Relax Care I-5, ul. Rydlówka 8, tel. 012 263 23 90, Lingua Expert C-3, ul. Mikołajska 5/9, tel. 012 421 06
www.dayspa.com.pl. 63, www.linguaexpert.pl. Sworn translators who provide
services in all languages.

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

146 STREET REGISTER LISTINGS INDEX 147

29 Listopada, Al. J-1 Focha, Al. marsz. G/H-3 Kwartowa L-1 Pod Kopcem, Al. K-5 Symfoniczna H-2 A1 50 Basztowa Guestrooms Cracow Tours 104 Galicyjska 72 Kolorowa 74
3 Maja, Al. G/H-2/3 Franciszkańska B/C-4 Lanckorońska K-5 Podbrzezie J-3 Syrokomli H-3
Akacjowa L-1 Friedleina I-1 Lea F/H-1/2 Podbrzezie D-5/6 Szablowskiego F-1 AAA Kraków 38 Crazy Guides 104 Gardenhouse 43 Kolory Bed and
Akademicka H-2 Galla G/H-1 Legionów Piłsudskiego J-4/5 Podgórska E-7 Szafera K-2/3 Apartments 40 Bat Cave In Będkowska Cristal Park 122 Gehanowska 82 Breakfast 41
Aliny L-1 Garbarska B-2 Lenartowicza H/I-1/2 Podchorążych G-1 Szczepańska B/C-2/3 Abel 30 Valley 120 Crown Piast Hotel & Geology Museum 105 Kraków City
Altanowa G-1 Garczyńskiego K-2 Leszczynowa F-3 Podskale I/J-5 Szenwalda L-1/2 Adam Mickiewicz 102 Batory 30 Park 27 Getting there 115 Apartments 41
Ariańska J-2 Garncarska H-2/3 Lewkowa E-6 Podwale B-2/3 Szeroka E-6
Armii Krajowej, Al. F/G-1 Gazowa E-7 Limanowskiego J/K-4 Podzamcze B/C-5 Szewska B-2/3 Afera 92 B&B La Fontaine 30 Crown Treasury & Giraffe 43 Kraków Homes 41
Asnyka B-1/2 Gęsia K-3 Lipowa K-4 Pokoju, Al. K/L-2/3 Szklarska L-4 Affinity Flats 40 Benefis 30 Armoury 109 Golden Lion Apartments Krakow Tourist
Augustiańska D-6-7 Głowackiego G-1 Litewska H-1 Półkole L-3 Szlachtowskiego G-1 After Work 84 Between Hard Rock and Cruising Krakow Bike 41 Information Point 102
Bajeczna L-3 Goetla G-2 Loretańska A-2/3 Pomorska H-1 Szlak I/J-1
Bałuckiego A-6 Gołębia B-3 Lubelska I-1 Portowa K/L-4 Szpitalna C/D-2/3
Agnieszka Sababady a Holy Place 61 Tours 104 Good Bye Lenin 43 Krawat Klub 86
Bandtkiego F-1 Gontyna G-3 Lubicz D/E-2 Poselska B/C-4 Szwedzka H-4 104 Bistro Marago 70 Cul-De-Sac 51 Grand 25 Królicze Oczy 94
Bandurskiego K-1/2 Grabowskiego A-1 Lublańska K-1 Powiśle A/B-5 Szymanowskiego H-2 Akropolis 49 Black Gallery 85 Cybulskiego Guest- Green Way 80 Kuchnia i Wino 52
Barska A/B-6/7 Gramatyka G-1 Lubomirskiego J/K-2 Powroźnicza A-6 Śląska I-1 Albo Tak 81 Bochnia Mine 121 rooms 38 Greg & Tom 43 Kuchnia Staropolska "U
Bartosza E-6 Grodzka C-3/5 Ludowa K-5 Powstańców Śląskich, Al. Śliska I-5
Basztowa C/D-2 Gromadzka L-4/5 Ludwinowska I-4/5 J/K-5 Ślusarska K-4
Alchemia 94 Bohema 71 Cyrano de Bergerac 48 Gródek 25 Babci Maliny" 74
Batorego I-2 Grottgera H/I-1 Lwowska J-K/4 Powstańców Wielkopolskich, Śniadeckiego J-3/4 Al Dente 61 Bombaj Tandoori 50 Czartoryski Museum 104 Grodzka Apartments 41 LaF 94
Beliny-Prażmowskiego, Al. Grunwaldzka K-1/2 Łobzowska B-1/2 Al. K/L-4/5 Św. Agnieszki C-6 Alef 30, 68 Bombaymusic 123 Czerwony Smok 48 Grunwald Monument La Famigilia 62
K-1/2 Gryfity G-3 Madalińskiego A-6 Powstania Warszaw. Al. K-2/3 Św. Anny B-3 Alexander 30 Bom Fogo 51 Cztery Pokoje 86 102 La Fontaine 48
Berka Joselewicza E-5 Grzegórzecka E-4 Mała A-4 Prądnicka I-1 Św. Bronisławy G-3
Bernardyńska B/C-5/6 Gzymsików I-1 Malczewskiego F/G-3-4 Prandoty J/K-1 Św. Filipa C/D-1 Aloha Café 84 Boogie 51, 81, 97 Da Pietro 62 Gruzińskie Chaczapuri49 La Habana 95
Biała Droga H-4 Halicka J-3/4 Mały Rynek C-3 Praska G/H-4 Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5 Amadeus 24, 50 Boom Bar Rush 85 Dawno temu na Guliwer 48 Lanczowisko 67
Biernackiego H-1 Helclów I-1 Masarska K-3 Prusa H-3 Św. Idziego C-5 Amarone 61 Boro 92 Kazimierzu 69 Harris Piano Jazz Bar 97 La Strada 63
Biskupia B-1 Herlinga-Grudzińskiego K-4 Matejki, Pl. I/J-2 Przedwiośnie I-4/5 Św. Jacka H-5 Amber 30 Brasserie 48 Debiut 72 Hawełka 72 Lemonday 52
Blachnickiego, ks. J-3 Heweliusza L-5 Mazowiecka H/I-1 Przemysłowa K-4 Św. Jana C-2/3
Blich J-3 Hofmana F-3 Meiselsa D-6 Przybyszewskiego F-1 Św. Katarzyny D-6/7 Amphorum 84 Bristol 122 DeCafencja 86 Hellada 49 Leonardo 63
Bobrowskiego K-3 Humberta H-3 Metalowców E-3/4 Pułaskiego A-6/7 Św. Krzyża D-3 Ancora 50 Brzozowy Gaj 71 Deli Bar 49 History Museum 105 Le Scandale 95
Boczna H-4 Igrców G-2 Mickiewicza, Al. H-2 Racławicka H-1 Św. Łazarza J-3 Andel's 24 B-Side 94 Del Papa 62 History of Photography Les Couleurs 95
Bohomolca L-1 Ingardena H-3 Michałowskiego A-1/2 Radziwiłłowska E-2/3 Św. Marka C/D-2/3 Antiquitatis Memoria Budda Bar Drink & Diocesan Museum 126 Museum 105 Lizak Luzabar 86
Bocheńska J-4 Izaaka D/E-6 Michałowskiego H/I-2 Rajska A-2 Św. Sebastiana C/E-5
Bonerowska E-4 Jabłonowskich H/I-3 Mikołajska C/D-3 Rakowicka J/K-1/2 Św. Stanisława C-7 Travel 104 Garden 85 Dom Casimi 32 Holiday Inn 25 Loch Ness Rock Pub 93
Bonifraterska D-7 Jadwigi z Łobzowa F/G-1 Miodowa D/E-5/6 Reformacka A/B-2 Św. Teresy I-1 Antonio Caffé 61 Buena Vista 69, 94 Dom Polonii 32 Holy Cross 100 Logos 34
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. Jagiellońska B-2/3 Mitery I-5 Rękawka J/K-4 Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3 Any Time Sandwich & Bull Pub 85 Dragon's Den 109 Holy Trinity Church Loża Klub Aktora 82
K/L-1 Jachowicza L-2 Mlaskotów H-3 Retoryka A-4 Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7 Pizza Bar 61 Bunkier Cafe 85 Drukarnia 97 100, 123 Łubu-Dubu 93
Borowego F-2 Jakuba E-6 Młyńska K-1 Reymana G-2 Świętokrzyska I-1
Bosacka E-1/2 Jaskółcza H-3 Mogilska K/L-1/2 Reymonta G/H-2 Tenczyńska B-4 Apartamenty na Burgher House (Hippolit Dwór Kościuszko 24 Home Army Museum Madkraków 104
Bożego Ciała D-6/7 Joselewicza J-3 Moniuszki K-2 Rodackiego J/K-5 Tkacka H-2 Kazimierzu 40 Museum) 104 Dwór w Tomaszowicach 105 Magnifica 52
Boznańskiej K-1 Józefa D/E-6 Monte Cassino A-7 Różana A-6 Toruńska G-2 Aparthotel Mały Kraków Cafe Art 81 46 Home & Travel 38 Małopolska Tourist
Bracka C-3/4 Józefitów H-1 Montelupich I-1 Ruczaj F/G-5 Traugutta K-4
Brązownicza F-2 Kadecka G-1 Mosiężnicza K-2 Rybaki I/J-4 Trynitarska D/E-7
30 Cafe Bar Lodziarnia 81 Dym 82 Horai 68 Information 102
Brodowicza K-1/2 Kalwaryjska I/J-5 Mostowa D/E-7 Rybna L-4/5 Twardowskiego H-5 Aparthotel Sodispar 38 Cafe Botanica 81 Dynia Cafe Bar 72 Huśtawka 82 Maltański 34
Bronowicka F/G-1 Kamienna I/J-1 Na Gródku D-3 Rynek Dębnicki A-6 Tyniecka F/H-4/5 Aparthotel Spatz 30 Cafe Ross Amores 81 Dżok 102 Ibis Kraków Centrum 33 Mama's 44
Brzozowa D-5 Kamieńskiego I/J-5 Na Przejściu E-6 Rynek Główny C-3 Urzędnicza H-1/2 Apartment Cracow Cafe Sukiennice 51 Eccentric Traveller Point Il Calzone 62 Mamma Mia 63
Bułhaka A-7 Kanonicza C-4/5 Na Szaniec L-3 Rynek Kleparski C/D-1 Wadowicka I-5
Buszka F/G-2 Kapelanka H-4/5 Na Ustroniu I-4 Rynek Podgórski J-4 Wałowa K-4
38, 40 Café Zaćmienie 85 104 Il Fresco 70 Manggha 68, 106
Bydgoska G-1/2 Kapucyńska A/B-3 Na Zjeździe J-4 Rzeszowska E-6 Wandy K-3 Apartment Marii Curie 5 Camelot 82 EcoTravel 120 Indalo Cafe 82 Manzana 69, 86
Bytomska H-1 Karłowicza H-2 Nadwislanska J-4 Rzeźnicza K-3 Warmijska G-1 40 Camera Cafe 82 Eden 32, 69 Indus Tandoor 50 Masada 95
Ceglarska H-5 Karmelicka A/B-1/2 Nawojki G-2 Sądowa K-2 Warszauera D/E-6 Apartments Campanile 30 Edo Sushi 68 International Youth Massolit Books & Café
Celna J-4 Kasztelańska G/H-3 Oboźna H-1 Salezjańska G/H-5 Warszawska D-1
Chmielowskiego I/J-4 Kazimierza Odnowiciela K-1 Odlewnicza F-1/2 Salwatorska H-3 Wasilewskiego A-7 Slawkowska 26 40 Carlito 62 Elegant 41 Meeting Centre 116 83
Chocimska H-1/2 Kazimierza Wielkiego G/H-1 Odrowąża I-1 Sandomierska A/B-6 Wąska E-6 Aqua e Vino 61 Carpe Diem Pub 86 Elektor 27 Ipanema 47 Matejko 28
Chodkiewicza J-3 Kielecka K-1/2 Ofiar Dąbia L-3 Sarego C/D-4/5 Waszyngtona G-3 Aquarium - Natural Casimir's Castle 120 Endzior 72 Irbis 33 Mauretania 52
Chodowieckiego G-2 Kiełkowskiego K/L-4 Ogrodowa D-1 Saska L-4/5 Węglowa D-7 History Museum 103 Casinos Poland 98 English Football Club 86 Irish Arms 86 McDonald's 67
Chopina H-2 Kijowska, Al. G/H-1/2 Oleandry H-2/3 Senacka C-4 Wenecja A-3
Ciemna E-6 Kilińskiego A-7 Olszańska K-1 Senatorska H-3 Westerplatte D-2/3 Archdiocesan Museum Cathedral 108, 123 Enso 49, 92 Isaac's Synagogue 112 M Club 86
Cieszyńska I-1 Klimeckiego K/L-4 Orawska I-5 Siedleckiego E-4/5 Widok L-3 of Cardinal Karol Wojtyła Cathedral Museum 109 Enzo 94 Jagiellonian University Mechanoff 95
Cicha F-1 Kmieca H-1 Orzeszkowej C-6/7 Siemieńskiego G/H-1 Wielopole J-3 103 Celestat 104 Ester 27 Museum 106 Metropolitan 52
Ćwiklowa F-5 Kobierzyńska H-5 Owcy-Orwicza F-3 Siemiradzkiego A-1 Wierzbowa I-4 Archeology Museum Centre for Jewish Etap Kraków Bronowice Jama Michalika 82 Miejsce 95
Cybulskiego A-3 Kochanowskiego A-1/2 Paderewskiego C/D-1 Sienkiewicza H-1 Wietora I-4
Cystersów L-2/3 Koletek C-6 Paproci L-4 Sienna C-3/4 Wioślarska G-4 103 Culture 112 38 Jan 33 Migrena 83
Czapskich A-3 Kołłątaja E-3 Parkowa J-5 Skałeczna C/D-7 Wiślna B-3 Ariel 68 Cherubino 62 Ethnographical Museum Jarden 112 Mikołaj 34
Czarnieckiego J-4 Komandosów I-4/5 Patynów G-4 Skalica F-5 Władysława Łokietka I-1 Arka Noego 68 Chimera 72 104 Jarema 72 Mile Stone Jazz Club 97
Czarnowiejska H-2 Konarskiego H-2 Paulińska C-6/7 Skarbińskiego G-1 Włościańska F-1
Arka Pana Church 119 Chimera Salad Bar 67 Ethnographic Museum Jeff's 47 Milk & Co 54
Czarodziejska G/H-4 Konfederacka A-7 Pawia D-1/2 Skawińska C/D-7 Wodna L-5
Czysta A-2 Konopnickiej A/B-5/7 Pawlickiego, ks. H-4/5 Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3 Wodociągowa F-4 Art Club Błędne Koło 92 Chłopskie Jadło 71 126 Jewish Community 112 Miód i Wino 76
Czyżówka J-5 Konwisarzy F-1/2 Pędzichów I-1/2 Skwerowa A-7 Wójtowska H-1 Art Hotel Niebieski 27 Chopin Cracow 30 Europejska 82 John Paul II 102 Miód Malina 76
Dąbrowskiego, gen. K-4 Kopernika D/E-3 Piastowska F/G-1/3 Sławkowska C-2/3 Wolnica, Pl. J-4 Ascot 30 Cień 92 Europejski 32 Jordan 33 Miyako Sushi 68
Dąbska L-2 Kordylewskiego K-2/3 Piekarska C/D-7 Słomiana H-4/5 Worcela D-2
Dajwór E-6 Kościuszki H-3 Pietrusińskiego G-4/5 Słoneckiego K-1 Wróblewskiego I-1/2
Astoria 30 Circus 92 Express by Holiday Inn Jordan Tourist Mleczarnia 95
Daszyńskiego J-3/4 Kosynierów L-2 Pijarów K/L-1 Słonecznikowa F-3 Wrocławska H/I-1 Atrium 27 City Engineering 27 Information and Młyn 83
Dębnicka H-4 Kotlarska K-3 Pijarska C/D-2 Słowackiego, Al. H/I-1 Wrzesińska E-4 Auschwitz I 115 Museum 104 Fabryka Pizzy 62 Accommodation Centre Moment 95
Dębowa A-7 Koźlarska L-5 Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4 Smocza B-6 Wyczółkowskiego G/H-3 Auschwitz II - Birkenau City Hostel 43 Farina 80 102 Momo 80
Dekerta K-4 Krakowska D-6/7 Piwna J-4 Smoleńsk A/B-4 Wygoda A-4
Dembowskiego J/K-5 Krasickiego I-5 Pl. Bawół E-6 Smolki I/J-5 Wyspiańskiego H-1
116 City Tourist Information Farinella 52 Józef Mehoffer House Momotown 44
Dietla C/E-4/6 Krasińskiego, Al. H-3 Pl. Bernardyński C-5 Sobieskiego I-2 Zacisze D-1/2 Auschwitz Jewish 102 Farmona Business Hotel 106 Monopol 28
Długa C-1 Kraszewskiego H-3 Pl. Biskupi B/C-1 Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1 Zakątek H-1 Centre & Chevra Lomdei C.K. Browar 71, 86 & Spa 28 Judaica Foundation 112 Morawica 45
Długosza J-5 Kredowa F-5 Pl. Bohaterów Getta J-4 Sołtyka E-3/4 Zamenhofa D/E-2 Mishnayot Synagogue C.K. Dezerter 71 Faust 86 Kadetus 44 Morskie Oko 76
Dobrego Pasterza K/L-1 Kremerowska A-1 Pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3 Spasowskiego A/B-1 Zamkowa A-6
Dolnych Młynów A-2 Królewska H-1 Pl. Inwalidów H-2 Spiżowa F-1/2 Zarzecze F-1 116 Classic 30 Floriańska 52 Karmel 33 Mr Henryk Halkowski
Dominikańska C-4 Królowej Jadwigi F/G-2/3 Pl. Kossaka A-5 Starowiślna D/E-4/6 Zatorska I-4/5 Avanti Orangery 61 Club Clu 94 Floryan 32 Kawaleria Szarża 112
Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6 Krótka C-1 Pl. Mariacki C-3 Staszica I-1 Zaułek K-4 Avanti Ristorante 61 Coffeeheaven 82 Folia 86 Smaku 74 Museum of the Armed
Dunajewskiego B/C-2 Krowoderska C-1 Pl. Matejki D-1/2 Stawarza J-5 Zegadłowicza A-4 Avocado Resto Bar 50 Coffee Republic 82 Fortuna 32 Kazimierz 33 Act 119
Dworska H-4 Krupnicza A/B-2/3 Pl. Na Groblach B-4/5 Stefana Batorego A/B-1 Zielińskiego, gen. G/H-4
Dzielskiego K/L-1 Krzemionki J-5 Pl. Nowy D-6 Stoczniowców L-4 Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5 Awiw 71 Coltrane Restaurant & Fortuna Bis 32 Kazimierz II 33 Music Bar 9 93
Estery D-6 Krzesławicka L-1 Pl. Słowiański C-1 Stolarska C-3/4 Zwycięstwa L-2/3 Bagelmama 47, 70 Music Bar 51 Forum 123 KFC 67 Nathan's Villa Hostel 44
Fabryczna L-2/3 Krzywa C-1 Pl. Serkowskiego J-4/5 Stradomska C/D-5/6 Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4 Balaton 49 Cool Tour Company 104 Francuski 24 Kijów Klub 93 Na Wawelu 54, 109
Fałata H-3 Krzywda L-4/5 Pl. Szczepański B-2 Straszewskiego I-3 Zygmunta Augusta J-2 Bambus 81 Copernicus 24, 51 Frania 82 King Łokietek Cave 120 New Cemetery 113
Feldmana A-1 ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7 Pl. Św. Ducha D-2 Strzelców K-1 Żelazna J-1
Felicjanek A-4 Księcia Józefa F/G-4 Pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4 Strzelecka E-2 Żółkiewskiego K-3 Bar 13 81 Corleone 62 Friends of the Fine Arts Klezmer Hois 34, 69 Nic Nowego 54, 87
Fenn’a Sereno I-2 Kujawska H-1 Pl. Wolnica D-7 Studencka A/B-3 Baraka 94 Cracovia 27 Society Gallery 105 Klimaty Południa North Fish 80
Filarecka H-3 Kupa E-6 Pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4 Sukiennicza C-6 Bar Grodzki 71 Cracow City Tours 104 Galicia Jewish Museum Winiarnia 82 Norwid Cultural Centre
Flisacka H-3/4 Kurkowa J-2 Płaszowska L-4 Supniewskiego K-1/2
Floriańska C/D-2/3 Kurniki D-1 Pod Kopcem F-3 Swoszowicka J-5
Baroque 50, 84 Cracowdays 38 112 Kolanko N°6 82 119

Kraków In Your Pocket October - November 2008

148 LISTINGS INDEX
Nostalgia 76 Pod Papugami Irish Pub Sioux Classic 47 Hostel & Pension 45 80, 98
Nova Resto Bar 54 88 Sleeping in Kraków 42 The Tourist Guide Vis a Vis 90
Novotel Kraków Pod Różą 28, 56 Słodki Wentzl 83 Association 104 Warszawski 36
Bronowice 28 Pod Słońcem 78 Słowacki Theater 81 Tourist Information 112 Warsztat 96
Novotel Kraków Pod Wawelem 34, 56 Smak Ukraiński 80 Tourist Information Wawel 36
Centrum 25 Pod Winogronami 56 Sodispar Service Centre 118, 124 Wentzl 26, 60
Nowa Huta Museum 119 Poezja Smaku 78 Apartments 42 Tourist Information Wesele 78
Noworolski 83 Polakowski 78 SomePlace Else 47, 89 Office 102 What to see 114
Nuova Cosa Nostra 63 Polish Aviation Museum Sphinx 58 Tournet 39 Wieliczka Mine 121
Od Nowa 97 106 Spokój 89 Tram Bar 90 Wielopole 36
Od zmierzchu do świtu Pollera 34 Sport Bar 89 Trattoria Pod Wierzchowska Górna
76 Polonia 35 SS Peter & Paul's 100 Winogronami 64 Cave 120
Ogniem i Mieczem 76 Polskie Jadło St. Adalbert's 100 Trattoria Soprano 64 Wierzynek 78
Ojców National Park 120 Compendium Culinarium Stajnia 96 Trecius 36 Willa Krzyska 123
Oldsmobil Pub 87 78 Stalowe Magnolie 98 TriBeCa Coffee 83 Wit Stwosz 36
Old St. Nick's Pub 87 Polskie Jadło Folwark 78 St. Andrew's 100 Trzy Kafki 45 Wrona 39
Old Synagogue 113 Polskie Jadło Klasyka St. Anne's 101 Twardowski 46 W Rytmie 96
Old Town 44 Polska 78 Stara Piekarnia 94 Twierdza 46 Wyspiański Museum
Old Town Apartments 41 Polski Pod Białym Orłem Starka 78 Tyskie Brewery 107 106
Old Town Studios B&B 28 Start 39 U Jana 122 Ye Olde Goat Pub 96
42 Portofino 64 Stary 26 U Kacpra 90 Youmiko Sushi Bar 68
Oleandry YHA 44 Pozytywka 96 Stary Hotel Restaurant U Louisa 90 Zamek Korzkiew 46
Olympia Galeria 112 Propaganda 96 58, 90 U Muniaka 98 Zapiecek Polskie
Omerta 95 Prozak 94 Stary Port 89 U Pana Cogito 36 Pierogarnie 78
Orient 46 Przychodnia Towarzyska State Rooms & Royal U Zalipianek 67 Zbliżenia 97
Orient Ekspres 54 88 Private Apartments 109 U Ziyada 78
Oskar Schindler 114 Ptasiek 96 St. Barbara's 101 Vega 80
Ostoya Palace 25 PTTK Wyspiański 35 St. Bernard's 101 Villa Pacoldi 46
Padre 54 Pub Wrega 96 St. Catherine's 101 Vinoteka La Bodega
Paese 48 Pugetów 29 St. Francis' Basilica 101
Pałac Bonerowski 25 QUBE 88 St. Mary's Basilica 106
Panorama 39, 87 Qubus Hotel Kraków 26 St. Mary's Church 124 Features index
Paparazzi 87 Radisson SAS 26 Stranger 45
All Saint's Day 8
Pasaż 123 Ratuszowa 83 Studnia Życzeń 64
Basic Data 13
Patria 39 Rdza 94 Sushi Bar Sakana 68
Between a Rock and a Hard Place 61
Pauline Church 100 Redbrick 42 Swing Resto & Club 98
Climate 13
Pauza 87, 93 Redolfi 48 Sympozjum 29 Commie Krakow 57
Pepe Rosso 63 Reformed Franciscans' System POP 39 Eating History 74
Pergamin 88 100 System PREMIUM 35 Essential Krakow 99
Petrus 34 Regent 29 Szara 58 Florianska 53
Pharmacy Museum 106 Remuh Synagogue & Szara Kazimierz 60 Further reading (Krakow Old Town) 44
Pharmacy Under the Cemetery 113 Szoberowska 60 Guided Tours 104
Eagle 113 Rezydent 29 Szynk 96 History 16
Philo 88 Roentgen 94 Tabu 89 Jagiellonian University 51
Picolo 63 Rooster 47 Taco Mexicano Cuatro Krakow Card 13
Piec'Art 97 Royal 35 Elementos 70 Language Smarts 15
Piękny Pies 88 Royal Castle 108 Taco Mexicano El Legends of Krakow 97
Pierożki u Vincenta 76 Rubens 39 Pueblo 70 Market Values 14
Pierwszy Lokal... 83 Rubinstein 29, 56 Tajemniczy Ogród 83, 96 National Holidays 15
Pieskowa Rock 120 Ruczaj 35 Tarnovia 122, 123 Pl. Szczepanski 105
Pigoniówka 67 Salt & Co 88 Tarnów District Museum Podgroze 76
Poles you should know (Czeslaw Milosz) 96
Pijalnia Czekolady Wedla San Sebastian Café 56 126
Poles you should know (Jozef Bem) 124
83 Santo Stefano 64 Tatrzańska 123
Press & Mail 22
Pimiento 69 Saski 35 Temple Synagogue 113
Public Transport 131
Pizzeria Banolli 63 Scandale Royal 58 Teresita 60
Quick Currency Convertor 14
Pizzeria Trzy Papryczki Secesja 29 Tesoro Del Mar 70 Quick Picks 10
64 Sekret Kazimierza 42 The Irish Mbassy 90 Slowacki Theatre 81
Playground 93 Senacka 58 The Med. Bar 90 St. Mary's Basilica 106
Pod Amorem 64 Senacki 29 The National Museum in Stags 91
Pod Aniołami 78 Sheraton Kraków 26 Kraków 106 Students 80
Pod Gwiazdami 56 Shisha Club 89 The Olive 60 The Law 95
Pod Jaszczurami 93 Showtime 98 The Piano Guest House Tourist Information 102
Pod Kamykiem 45 Siesta 83 36 Train Smarts 130
Pod Krzyżykiem 42, 78 Silesian House 106 The Piano Rouge 60, 98 Tyskie Brewery Tour 107
Pod Osłoną Nieba 67 Singer Café 96 The Secret Garden Wooden architecture of Malopolska 66

Kraków In Your Pocket