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KRAKÓW
August - September 2008
Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Introducing Kraków
KRAKÓW For a foreigner Kraków can be carved in two segments: the old town and
Kazimierz. Wedged between these two districts lies Wawel. For Poles
this castle and cathedral complex is a defining icon of national pride
August - September 2008 and patriotism. For the tourist Wawel means queues, Kodak, dragons
and an unforgettable journey through the heritage and legends of this
country. Forget any guidebooks you may have swallowed on the way, a
walk through the courtyards and corridors of Wawel is an A-Z through this
nation’s history and tradition. Put it on the top of any itinerary you have.
Back to the city centre, and the beauty of Kraków’s old town cannot
be ignored. Stuffed with museums, galleries and gargoyles, the
gridlike street plan is powdered with chapels, churches and a blend
of architectural styles. Both postcard perfect and cliché, the old town
is a battleground of souvenir stores and mime artists. Accordion
players ply trade next to old trout’s selling bobble hats and bagels.
It is an area of cellar bars and jazz clubs, of world-class restaurants
and hole-in-the-wall kebab stands. Amazing.
And so to Kazimierz. Famous for its associations with Schindler and
Hit the hills
Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish quarter than cemeteries
Zakopane explored and synagogues. Lying between shops selling buttons and spanners,
Out of town
you’ll find the heart of Kraków’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling
N°53
Poland - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)
from bat caves to salt façades and wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafés, each one
mines
UK - £5
EU (excl. Poland & UK) - €3 effecting an air of pre-war timelessness.
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1508-2334
Between Kazimerz, Wawel and the old town you’ll find approximately
2.5 million registered works of art, and nowhere near enough days
to visit them all. As the museums and churches bolt their doors you’ll
see Kraków emerge in another guise entirely - as one of Europe’s premier party towns. Nowhere in the world boasts a higher
concentration of bars than Kraków’s historic quarter; it’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your turn. Enjoy.
This mini-guide is designed to highlight the very best Kraków has to offer, with map references included where applicable.
This is by no means a definitive guide to the city, but a scaled down version of our print publication - pick up a copy of our
156-page guidebook to the city from points listed on the panel next to the map overleaf. All map references used in our
guidebook are the same as those used on this mini-guide to give you the most complete package of information to Krakow.
Full contents of all our guides can also be found online at www.inyourpocket.com.
Restaurants
Bars
Clubs
Sights
Hotels
Transport
Map
and a whole host of other useful information
ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT
Arriving by bus
International buses arrive and depart from the brand new
terminal (Dworzec autobusowy) at ul. Bosacka (E-1). There’s
a exchange bureau (kantor), open 08:30 - 17:30, as well as
an ATM (bankomat). Payphones can be found in the main
building, and you can buy phone cards from the newsagents.
Here you can also buy pre-paid cards and SIM cards for your
mobile. Lockers for left luggage cost 4-8zł depending on the
size for 24hrs, and there are also larger lockers available if
you’re lugging skiing gear or golf clubs. The bus station is
right next to the train station so exactly the same rules apply
for getting to town.
Kraków Bus Station (Dworzec autobusowy) E-1,
ul. Bosacka 18, tel. 012 393 52 52.
Arriving by car
For the time being there’s only one major highway leading
into Krakow via Katowice, the A4, and its smooth asphalt
doesn’t come free. A 6,50zł toll is paid when you enter and
exit the motorway. The bottleneck doesn’t begin until you get
into Krakow. If heading to the centre, be aware that parking
is quite a chore.
Arriving by plane
John Paul II Kraków Balice Airport (Port lotniczy w Krakowie
Balicach imieniem Jana Pawła II ) is modern and easy to
navigate, though not without its pitfalls. On arrival you’ll find
a 24hrs currency exchange office as well as a clutch of ATMs
(bankomat), as well as a helpful if limited tourist information
point; you won’t be able to buy phone cards or train tickets,
though they will be able to provide you with the next best thing:
an In Your Pocket mini guide. There is no left luggage facility
at the airport, and note that while there are payphones you’ll
need to buy a chip card (karta telefoniczna) from one of the
newsagents to operate them.
The best way to get into town is to take the quick and frequent
shuttle train to Kraków Główny. A free blue bus directly outside
the terminal takes you to the airport’s new train station (you
can walk in five minutes). Tickets are purchased from the
conductor, and cost 6zł. The service runs every 20 minutes
throughout the day, and the shuttle bus service is timed to
coincide with departing trains.
For those who can’t be doing with public transport, honest
MPT 9191 taxis stand outside the main entrance to the
airport and will charge you between 60-70zł to make the
11km journey into the city. The price goes up by 50 per cent
between 22:00 - 06:00. Be wary of cowboy taxi operators
and only use cabs that have meters, signs on the roof and
their telephone number clearly on display.
If arriving from another city in Poland, note that the domestic
terminal is a ten minute walk from the main terminal building;
it is not all that well sign posted. While MPT 9191 taxis usu-
ally meet domestic flights, you will need to walk to the main
terminal for all other transport options.
John Paul II Krakow Balice Airport (Port Lotniczy
Kraków Balice im. Jana Pawła II) ul. Medweckiego
1, tel. 012 295 58 00, www.lotnisko-balice.pl.
Arriving by train
The main railway station (Dworzec Główny) is conveniently
situated at the northern tip of the Old Town, and is just a hop,
skip and a jump from civilization. From the platform simply fol-
low the herd towards down the stairs and you’ll find yourself
in the main station building. A Euronet ATM (bankomat) lurks
in the tunnel, and you’ll find a PKO ATM in the main hall. The
tunnel also houses a Tourist Information point (open 06:00
2
- 22:00). These guys have the usual display of pamphlets,
can organize tours and stock In Your Pocket. Both sections of
the station - the subterranean tunnel and the main hall - have
left luggage lockers. A large piece of luggage will cost 8zł for
one day, and a small one 4zł. Make sure you have change.
Payphones can be found dotted around, though you will need
to find a phonecard from a newsagent to use them.
Taxis stand outside the main entrance, as well as on the top
floor car park. In spite of the proximity to old town you’ll still
find yourself charged about 10zł to get to the centre. Buses
and trams stop outside Galeria Krakowska, with tickets priced
at 2.50zł. Buy them from newsagents kiosks or from the self-
service machines at the stop themselves.
Most people however (unless they are weighed down by lug-
gage) choose to walk into the Old Town, where most of the
city’s hotels and hostels are. Just follow the signs for wyjście
do centrum, or to Galeria Krakowska. From there you’ll find
yourself deposited in a large granite floored plaza right in front
of the Andels Hotel and Galeria Krakowska. Continue down
until you reach a subway which leads under ul. Basztowa/ul.
Westerplatte and you’ll find yourself in the old town.
Main Railway Station (Dworzec Główny) E-2, Pl.
Jana Nowaka-Jeziorańskiego 3, tel. 012 393 15 80,
www.rozklad.pkp.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 24hrs.
Minibuses
Krakow Shuttle I-1, ul. Szlak 26/23, tel. 012 633 01
25, www.krakowshuttle.com. Good value Kraków and
Katowice airport transfers, as well as tours of hard to reach
sights in and around the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Public transport
While Krakow has no metro system it does have an integrated
bus and tram system which runs from 05:00 - 23:00, with some
night buses continuing after that. To buy tickets, look for the
sign sprzedaż biletów MPK in kiosks or pay an additional 0.50zł
and buy a ticket from the driver. One-trip tickets (one trip being
one journey on a tram or bus not a point to point journey using
different trams and buses) cost 2.50zł (1.25zł for concessions
including children between 4 and 16 years of age), one-hour
tickets 3.10zł (1.55zł), 24-hour tickets 10.40zł (5.20zł), 48-hour
tickets 18.80zł (9.40zł), 72-hour tickets 25zł (12.50zł), 7-day
tickets 38zł (19zł) and monthly passes 67.80zł for two lines.
Of particular interest to families is the family ticket available
for travel on Saturdays and Sundays. For a price of 16zł a
family of up to 4 people (2 adults, 2 children under the age
of 16) can enjoy unlimited travel on all day -routes in Krakow.
One adult should write their details on the space provided on
the reverse of the ticket and stamp it when they get on board
the first bus or tram. ID should also be carried.
Rucksacks, boxes or bags larger than 20x40x60cm no lon-
ger require a seperate ticket. Note that ISIC or other foreign
student cards are valid. It is very important to note that
simply having a ticket does not give you the right to travel.
You MUST stamp your ticket immediately on boarding the
tram or bus in the small machines on-board. Beware that
inspectors regularly travel on the lines handing out fines to
those without valid tickets. They are obliged to carry ID and
to show it upon request.
An option worth noting is that the Krakow Tourist Card (see
what to see section) includes unlimited travel in the price. It
can be picked up at all the main tourist information points and
selected hotels, hostels and travel agencies. If you plan to
spend time sightseeing and travelling further than the old town
square it definitely saves a lot of hassle with having to deal with
kiosk owners and trying to figure out which ticket to buy.
August - September 2008
3 BASICS BASICS 4

Facts & Figures Market values Tipping Language smarts

Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
Territory Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite in- foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers creases over the last couple of years particularly in the to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll be other European languages with German being the most commonly
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word ‘dziękuje’ spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have ‘forgotten’
Baltic Sea and seven countries, namely the Baltic Sea products and prices. (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the sign that the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
(528km), Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Market values as of 23rd July 2008 based on you won’t be wanting any change back. This cultural slip- reasonable understanding.
Germany (467km), Lithuania (103km), the Russian €1 = 3.21zł Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
up can get very expensive. We have heard instances of result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
exclave of Kaliningrad (210km),Slovakia (539km) and, Product Price (zł) Price (€) a customer leaving a 200zł note for an 80zł meal and flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
Ukraine (529km). MacDonald’s Big Mac 6,90 zł € 2,15 then having to chase down the cheeky waitress to ask your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
Snickers 1,40 zł € 0,44 for the change. And while this is an extreme case, this On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
Longest River 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 25,00 zł € 7,79 happens far more often that you’d expect. To put things help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
Kraków is split by the river Vistula (Wisła). At 1,047km it 0.5ltr beer (shop) 3,00 zł € 0,93 into context, even though salaries have risen for wait of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
is Poland’s longest river and flows into the Bay of Gdańsk 0.5ltr beer (bar) 10,00 zł € 3,12 English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
staff in the last couple of years thanks to a severe lack
(Zatoka Gdańska). Loaf of white bread 1,50 zł € 0,47 of supply, a typical waiter/waitress would be receiving Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
20 Marlboros 7,95 zł € 2,48 around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress above assumed ‘ą’ sounds like ‘on’ in the French ‘bon’
Highest Point 1 ltr of unleaded petro (98) 4,99 zł € 1,55 that the client wanted to leave a whole day’s salary. Nice ‘ę’ sounds like ‘en’ as in the French ‘bien’
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2,40 zł € 0,75 work if you can get it. ‘ó’ is an open ‘o’ sound like ‘oo’ in ‘boot’
Mountains. In comparison Kraków’s landscape is flat and Basic pronunciation of consonants
the city lies 219m above sea level. ‘c’ like the ‘ts’ in ‘bits’
Religion What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a)
make you feel deepl y embarrassed if you tr y to get
‘j’ like the ‘y’ in ‘yeah’
‘w’ is pronounced like the English ‘v’
Population (2007) For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholi- any thing back b) conveniently disappear having pock- ‘ł’ like the ‘w’ in ‘win’
Poland 38,126,000 Warsaw 1,702,139 cism, fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking to eted your change or c) play the fool and sug gest that ‘ń’ like the ‘ny’ in ‘canyon’
Kraków 756,267 Łódź 755,251 Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity. When Poland it is your fault. We sug gest that you only say thank you ‘cz’ and ‘ć’ like the ‘ch’ in ‘beach’
Wrocław 634,630 Poznań 564,951 was partitioned in the 19th century, many turned to the church if you are happy for the wait staff to keep the change. ‘dz’ like the ‘ds’ in ‘beds’
Gdańsk 456,658 Katowice 314,500 ‘rz’ and ‘ż’ like the ‘su’ in ‘treasure’
for solace and during the communist era, underground resistance Other wise we advise you to use the word ‘proszę’ only ‘sz’ and ‘ś’ like the ‘sh’ in ‘ship’
Sopot 40,666 meetings were surreptitiously held in churches. The deceased when handing back the bill and the payment. One final ‘drz’ like the ‘g’ in ‘George’
Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of pride for tip and this is to demonstrate we are not completely anti r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
Local time all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound than cynics in the wait staff. If you add a tip to your credit card payment one syllable.
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone West can understand. Those used to the more easy-going habits the wait-staff have to pay tax on it. Any thing that you
(GMT+1hr). When it’s 12:00 in Warsaw it’s 11:00 in of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit unnerving at first, give in cash probably isn’t declared. So if you do receive Think you’ve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. you started.
particularly the solemn and opulent processions that occur from good ser vice we urge you to reward it and to make a tip
Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the time to time and the droves that flock to mass. in the form of cash. Civilities
last Sundays of March and October. cześć (cheshch) hi/bye
dzień dobry (jen do-bri) good morning/
Twin Towns Safety Toilets afternoon
Bordeaux, Bratislava, Curitiba, Cuzco, Edinburgh, Fes, Flor- dobry wieczór (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
In general Kraków is far safer than most Western cities, and Generall y speaking toilets in Poland come marked wi th dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
ence, Frankfurt, Gothenburg, Innsbruck, Kyiv, La Serena, visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime does a circle for women, and a triangle for men. Al though tak (tahk) yes
Leipzig, Leuven, Lviv, Milan, Nuremberg, Orléans, Pecs, exist, and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets the habit is graduall y d ying some restaurants and bars nie (nyeh) no
Rochester, NY, Seville, Solothurn, Vilnius, Zagreb working tram and bus routes by the train station. If you’re still charge a nominal fee for use of their facili ties - no proszę (prosheh) please
in a bar or a restaurant keep your wallet inside your trouser mat ter h ow much cash you’ve alread y spent in th e na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dziękuje (jen-koo-yeh) thank you
pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around. The establishment. This is a practice also used in train przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
Money brevity and dexterity of Kraków’s criminal community has
led to a spate of thefts from unattended coats and jackets.
stations and most public conveniences. Keep small
change hand y.
kocham cię
Mam ma imię
(koham tshe) I love you
(mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100zł Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded car park. Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents, Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of, especially Necessities
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and on the routes connecting Kraków with Prague and Berlin; book Gdzie są toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
bar, will refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying a couchette or a sleeper cabin. Avoid being ripped off by op-
as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments. portunistic taxi gits by using clearly marked cabs, something Quick currency convertor Czy mówi pan/pani (che moovee
po angielsku? pan/panee po
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Notes come in denominations of 200, 100, 50, 20 and to bear in mind around the train station and airport. angyelskoo?)
PLN US$ Euro Pound Nie mówię po (nyeh moovyeh po I don’t speak Polish
10 złotys, and there are 1, 2 and 5 złoty coins. One złoty polsku polskoo)
2.02zł = $1 3.21zł = €1 4.04zł = £1
equals 100 groszy which come in 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
groszy coins. Smoking 1 zł $0,50 € 0,31 £0,25
Proszę to napisać (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down

Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and Smokers tired of relentless persecution in the west will be 2 zł $0,99 € 0,62 £0,49 Czy można tu palić (che mohzhnah too Can I smoke here?
anywhere with a sign proclaiming it to be a Kantor and you delighted to know that few countries can boast such a fierce 3 zł $1,49 € 0,93 £0,74 paleech?)
will also be able to withdraw currency at a bankomat using commitment to the habit as Poland. Although the number of 4 zł $1,98 € 1,25 £0,99 Jedno piwo (yedno peevo poh- One beer please
5 zł $2,48 € 1,56 £1,23 poproszę prosheh)
your ATM card. A Kantor will often provide better value than male smokers has plunged from 70% of the population down
the banks in your home country or the ATM although for to 38% in recent years, this is still very much a tobacco friendly 6 zł $2,97 € 1,87 £1,48
Numbers
obvious reasons be very wary of Kantors in the airports, country. Poland is fast becoming the major European production 7 zł $3,47 € 2,18 £1,73 1 jeden yehden
bus stations and close to tourist sights. Shopping around centre for leading cigarette brands, with Phillip Morris, Imperial 8 zł $3,96 € 2,49 £1,98 2 dwa dva
will reward you with the best rate. The Polish currency has Tobacco and British American Tobacco all being major investors 9 zł $4,46 € 2,80 £2,22 3 trzy tshi
10 zł $4,95 € 3,12 £2,47 10 dziesięć jayshench
been exceedingly strong in recent years and the value of in the economy. Those gunning for a lung-busting taste of a
the dollar has nearly halved while you will be getting 25-40% traditional local brand should keep their eyes peeled for brands 20 zł $9,90 € 6,23 £4,94
General
less złoty for your euros and sterling than a couple of years like Sobieski, Extra Mocne and Meski. Bear in mind that it is 50 zł $24,75 € 15,58 £12,35 Airport lotnisko
100 zł $49,50 € 31,15 £24,69 Train station dworzec pkp
back. Having said that prices for food, drink, cultural venues taken as bad luck to light your snout off a candle, especially if you
150 zł $74,26 € 46,73 £37,04 Bus station dworzec pks
and transport still remain comparatively cheap in contrast to are close to the coast; an action which apparently guarantees Right/left prawo/lewo
200 zł $99,01 € 62,31 £49,38
Western Europe. A ticket to the theatre or cinema will rarely the death of a sailor. Unlike other EU countries Poland is yet to One ticket to jeden bilet do
250 zł $123,76 € 77,88 £61,73
cost more than 20zł while admission to most museums introduce a ban on smoking in bars and restaurants, and so far 1 000 zł $495,05 € 311,53 £246,91 First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
costs around 5-10zł. no plans have been formally announced to do so.

Instant Kraków August - September 2008

5 WHERE TO STAY
Cream of the crop
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20, tel. 012 429 60 70,
fax 012 429 60 62, amadeus@janpol.com.pl, www.hotel-
amadeus.pl. A posh effort inspired by the age of Mozart with
antique furnishings paired with state-of-the-art trimmings.
Prince Charles once bedded down here and this is one place
which guarantees the memorable stay that this historic city
requires. Q22 rooms (20 singles €160 - 190, 20 doubles
€170 - 200, 2 apartments €250 - 300). PTJHARU
FLGKDW hhhh
Andel’s D-2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. 012 660 00 00, fax 012
660 00 01, info@andelscracow.com, www.andelscra-
cow.com. Just steps away from the train station the Andels
looks set to become one of Kraków’s success stories. This
is an ultra modern hotel with a sharp design and rooms fea-
turing CD and DVD layers, in-house movies and light, bright
colours. Q159 rooms (153 singles €210 - 240, 153 doubles
€235 - 265, 6 apartments €330 - 520). PTHARUF
GKDW hhhh
Copernicus C-5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. 012 424 34 00,
fax 012 424 34 05, copernicus@hotel.com.pl, www.ho-
tel.com.pl. You’ve chosen well. Few hotels in Central Europe
can match the standard set by Copernicus, and it’s a firm
favourite with visiting dignitaries, with guests including George
W. Tastefully uncluttered the hotel is decorated with heavy
woodwork, marble, rich fabrics and wall frescoes - some
dating from the 14th century. Enjoy rooftop terrace views
of Wawel, gourmet food or the fitness centre and swimming
pool housed in the medieval cellars.Q29 rooms (4 singles
800zł, 17 doubles 900 - 980zł, 4 suites 1600 - 2000zł,
4 apartments 1200 - 1300zł). PTJHARFG
KDCW hhhh
Francuski C-2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. 012 627 37 77,
fax 012 627 37 00, rez.francuski@orbis.pl, www.orbis.
pl. The kind of place where doormen and porters wear gold
braiding on their uniforms. A grand effort, Francuski squeezes
classic furniture into the rather tight quarters. Beds are large
and all rooms feature minibars, internet access and trouser
press. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42
rooms (27 singles €158, 23 doubles €158, 15 apartments
€190 - 216). Breakfast €15. PTJHARGKW
hhhh
Gródek D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4, tel. 012 431 90 30, fax 012
378 93 15, grodek@donimirski.com, www.donimirski.
com. The honeymoon choice. Brought to you by the same
team behind the Pugetów and Maltański, so the quality comes
as no surprise. The interior, designed by Swiss studio IKRL, is
redolent of an aristocrat’s country retreat, and the individually
designed rooms come with vases of flowers, bathrobes and
a homely look that reeks of romantic class. Adjacent to a
Dominican convent, Gródek offers an air of complete serenity.
Q23 rooms (21 singles 560 - 760zł, 18 doubles 590 - 800zł,
2 apartments 890 - 930zł). PTHARULGKDW
hhhh
Holiday Inn D-4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. 012 619 00
00, fax 012 619 00 05, smm@hik.krakow.pl, www.
hik.krakow.pl. Nothing shor t of top-level standards
cour tesy of the Holiday Inn. Easy-on-the-eye navy blue
colours, staff who fuss over you and large rooms make
this the reliable choice one expects. For the best price
check ou t their web page which spor ts dail y special
offers. Q 154 rooms (124 singles €189, 124 doubles
€209, 30 suites €219 - 279). PTJHARUF
GK hhhhh
Instant Kraków
Novotel Kraków Centrum H-3, ul. Kościuszki 5, tel.
012 299 29 00, fax 012 299 29 99, h3372@accor.
com, www.orbisonline.pl. Decorated with bright blue
and orange patterns the Novotel Centrum offers all the
comforts you’d associate with a big brand name. The hotel
includes air-conditioning from top-to-bottom, sauna, one of
Kraków’s few hotel pools and facilities fully geared towards
the disabled. The upper floors feature views overlooking
Wawel Castle. Q198 rooms (192 singles €175 - 215, 192
doubles €175 - 215, 6 apartments €295 - 310). Breakfast
€17. PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
Pałac Bonerowski (Bonerowski Palace) C-3, ul.
Św. Jana 1, tel. 012 374 13 00, fax 012 374 13 05, re-
cepcja@palacbonerowski.pl, www.palacbonerowski.pl.
A masterpiece of a hotel occupying a historic property dating
from the early 16th century - King Jan Sobieski walked these
corridors back in the 17th century. Many of the original details
have been restored and retained, including gothic columns
and medieval masonry and rooms come beautifully appointed
with voluptuous drapes and elegant furnishings. Features of
note include a sweeping stairwell, chandelier hovering above,
as well as the full range of top-class services. Best of all rooms
come with grandstand views facing the main square, allowing
you to do all your holiday snaps from the warmth of your room.
Q14 rooms (10 singles 800zł, 10 doubles 950zł, 4 apart-
ments 1250 - 1900zł). PTHARGKDW
Pugetów D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 432 49 50,
fax 012 378 93 25, pugetow@donimirski.com, www.
donimirski.com. At last Kraków can boast the attractive,
boutique hotel that it deserves. No expense has been spared
creating this intimate spot and your accommodation comes
with embroidered bathrobes and some 200 television chan-
nels to veg in front of. Rooms come with their own unique
design, and names like Conrad and Bonaparte. Our favourite,
the Kwiatkowski apartment, features oil paintings, bone china
and soft cream fabrics. Treat yourself. Q7 rooms (3 singles
300 - 350zł, 2 doubles 410 - 460zł, 1 triple 510 - 540zł, 3
apartments 590 - 710zł). PTHARLG hhh
Qubus Hotel Kraków J-4, ul. Nadwiślańska 6, tel. 012
374 51 00, fax 012 374 52 00, krakow@qubushotel.
com, www.qubushotel.com. A cool design includes an eye-
catching wall that juts out at an angle from the hotel’s façade.
Air-conditioned rooms come furnished to high standards and
feature 26 inch televisions, broadband internet as well as an
ironing board to help with keeping up appearances. Unsurpris-
ingly there’s a heavy business slant to this hotel, with five
conference rooms to pick from, while for after-work moments
take timeout in the fitness centre - complete with top floor
swimming pool with views stretching over central Kraków.
Q194 rooms (98 singles €165, 85 doubles €180, 10 suites
€215 - 230, 1 apartment €255 - 270). PTHARU
FLGKDCW hhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant C Swimming pool
D Sauna W Wi-Fi
Radisson SAS B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. 012 618
88 88, fax 012 618 88 89, reservations.krakow@radis-
sonsas.com, www.radissonsas.com. Over 400 paintings
from the Kraków Academy of Art decorate the walls, while
other trimmings include high-speed internet access, gym and
ice-making machines on each floor. Choose between rooms
decorated in either ‘ocean’ (turquoise shades, smooth lines)
or ‘city-style’ (scarlet colours and edges). Regardless, both
boast three telephone lines, heated bathroom floors and
the best TV units you’ll find in Poland. Q196 rooms (196
singles €144 - 197, 196 doubles €144 - 197, 19 suites €270
- 360, 49 Business Class Room €240 - 300). Breakfast €20.
PTJHARUFLGKDW hhhhh
Sheraton Kraków A-5, ul. Powiśle 7, tel. 012 662 10 00,
fax 012 662 11 00, reservation.krakow@sheraton.com,
www.sheraton.com/krakow. The choice of the stars. This
is where the Real Madrid football team stayed back in 2004,
though usually it’s wealthy tourists and corporate travellers
who bustle through the glass-covered atrium in this sparkling
five star venture. Rooms come decorated with chequered
scarlet colour schemes and state-of-the-art amenities. Q232
rooms (221 singles €240 - 255, 221 doubles €260 - 275, 3
suites €315 - 335, 7 apartments €440 - 680, 1 Wawel Suite
€1180). PTHARUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Stary C-2, ul. Szczepańska 5, tel. 012 384 08 08, fax
012 384 08 09, stary@hotel.com.pl, www.stary.hotel.
com.pl. A feast of opulence awaits inside what is sure to
become regarded as one of Poland’s top hotels. Gain entry via
a huge hardwood door that automatically swings open, James
Bond-style. Occupying a former aristocratic residence many
of the original details have been retained, to go alongside chic
touches such as a glass lift that zips guests to their rooms.
Accommodation comes with bathrooms fitted with Italian
marble, and sumptuous rooms filled with creature comforts.
A subterranean pool can be found in the cellars, while perched
on top of the hotel is a rooftop bar with views staring onto
the main square. Q53 rooms (8 singles 800zł, 34 doubles
900zł, 4 suites 1140zł, 6 apartments 1520 - 1900zł, 1 Presi-
dential Suite 2280zł). PTJHARFGKDCW
hhhhh
Upmarket
Art Hotel Niebieski H-3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. 012 431
18 58, fax 012 431 18 28, hotelniebieski@gmail.com,
www.niebieski.com.pl. One of the top hotels in town, and
the favoured stamping ground of best selling author/historian
Norman Davies. Small details count, and there’s plenty at
the ‘Blue Hotel’: from heated bathroom floors to high-speed
internet. Riverside location in a quiet corner of Kraków.
Q13 rooms (12 singles 340zł, 12 doubles 380zł, 1 suite
470 - 560zł). THAULGKW hhh
Atrium C-1, ul. Krzywa 7, tel. 012 430 02 03, fax 012
430 01 96, hotelatrium@hotelatrium.pl, www.hotela-
trium.com.pl. Clean, spacious rooms furnished in a subtle,
Scandinavian fashion. The well-equipped conference room
can fit up to 70 people and suites are equipped with kitch-
enettes, living room and two beds. Q52 rooms (42 singles
€100 - 110, 39 doubles €120, 8 triples €135, 2 apartments
€170). PTHAULGKW hhh
Cracovia H-3, Al. Focha 1, tel. 012 424 56 00, fax
012 421 95 86, rez.cracovia@orbis.pl, www.orbis.pl.
A massive concrete facade hides an interior that resembles
an Austin Powers set. Furnishings are average and the
bathrooms can be cramped, though all the expectations of
international hotel service will be met. Its vast size makes
WHERE TO STAY 6
it a popular choice for busloads of tourists. Q314 rooms
(115 singles 257zł, 191 doubles 329 - 379zł, 8 apartments
499 - 799zł). OTHARUGKW hhh
Crown Piast Hotel & Park ul. Radzikowskiego 109
(Bronowice), tel. 012 683 26 00, fax 012 683 26 65,
biuro@hotelpiast.pl, www.hotelpiast.pl. Pleasant ac-
commodation with floral-patterned duvets, good bathrooms
and all the trifling extras like satellite TV. Outside enjoy land-
scaped gardens complete with rare plants, the occasional
peacock and a tavern. Q180 rooms (176 singles €70 -
180, 176 doubles €70 - 180, 4 apartments €160 - 360).
PTHARUFGKD hhhhh
Matejko I-1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. 012 422 47 37, fax 012
422 47 80, biuro@matejkohotel.pl, www.matejkohotel.pl. A
grand effort inside a fully restored tenement building. Swish rooms
come with rich colours and modern trappings, offering a fine bal-
ance between past and present. Fully air-conditioned throughout,
and with the full set of business facilities to boot. Q48 rooms (45
singles 360 - 400zł, 42 doubles 420zł, 2 triples 500zł, 3 apart-
ments 600zł). PTHARULGKD hhh
Novotel Kraków Bronowice F-2, ul. Armii Krajowej
11, tel. 012 622 64 00, fax 012 622 64 05, nov.
bronowice@orbis.pl, www.orbisonline.pl. With over 300
rooms under their roof this is one of Kraków’s larger hotels,
and as such primed for large conferences and tour groups
casting a glance at the higher end of the hotel market. Ac-
commodation touts a clean and bright design, incorporating
simple colours with modern facilities. Start the day with a
few lengths in the swimming pool, and finish it with late night
cocktails in their bar. Q305 rooms (304 singles €81 - 119,
304 doubles €81 - 119, 1 apartment €200). Breakfast €12.
POTHARUFLGKDCW hhhh
Rubinstein E-6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. 012 384 00 00, fax
012 384 00 01, recepcja@hotelrubinstein.com, www.
hotelrubinstein.com. It’s no longer possible to refer to Kaz-
imierz as Kraków’s upcoming district. Kazimierz has well and
truly arrived, and this new star is the proof. In keeping with
spirit of the area rooms in the Rubinstein come with elegant
carved wood finishes, luxurious rugs and antique details. Some
feature restored timber ceilings, and all are treated to modern
finishes that include gleaming bathrooms, air conditioning and
satellite TV. Situated right in the thick of the tourist trail, so
expect a host of sights right on your doorstep. Q27 rooms (4
singles 640zł, 18 doubles 700zł, 5 apartments 1000 - 1400zł).
PTHARUFGKDW hhhh
Senacki C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, tel. 012 422 76 86, fax
012 422 79 34, recepcja@senacki.krakow.pl, www.sen-
acki.krakow.pl. A beautifully renovated historic building is
the setting for this high-standard hotel. Well-appointed rooms
include easy colour schemes and great views of old Kraków.
Planted between Wawel and Old Town Square. Q20 rooms (4
singles €95 - 105, 13 doubles €130 - 140, 1 triple €135 - 145,
2 apartments €150 - 160). PTHAUGKW hhh
Mid-range
Abel E-6, ul. Józefa 30, tel. 012 411 87 36, fax 012 411
94 90, hotelabel@hotelabel.pl, www.hotelabel.pl. A charis-
matic hotel with eccentric art and assorted bric-a-brac in a lobby
that also comes with piles of tourism pamphlets to peruse. The
warm welcome supplied by the receptionists is similar to the
ones found in family-run enterprises, and the set of wooden stairs
leads guests to rooms primly furnished with modern fittings and
light colours. One of the best deals in the area. Q14 rooms (3
singles 180zł, 8 doubles 250zł, 3 triples 270zł). AG
August - September 2008
7 WHERE TO STAY
Ascot E-3, ul. Radziwiłłowska 3, tel. 012 384 06
06, fax 012 384 06 07, rezerwacja@hotelascot.pl,
www.ascothotel.pl. A modern front shields a sharply
designed hotel that includes reprints of classic works by
Tamara Lempicka in the lobby, and free internet access
inside each room. Smartly appointed rooms come with
reddish carpets and bouncy beds, while the shining white
bathrooms also include hairdryers - not always a given in
Poland. Q 49 rooms (4 singles €95, 36 doubles €120, 7
triples €135, 2 quads €160). PTHAULGKW
hhh
Astoria E-6, ul. Józefa 24, tel. 012 432 50 10, fax 012
432 50 20, biuro@astoriahotel.pl, www.astoriahotel.pl.
The large rooms are all air-conditioned, bright, and painted
fresh yellow. The hotel restaurant serves Polish and interna-
tional dishes and is open for passers-by too. Our favourite
detail: the huge buttons in the elevator. Q33 rooms (30
singles 340zł, 30 doubles 420zł, 1 triple 510zł, 2 apartments
500zł). PTHARUGKD hhh
Benefis A-6, ul. Barska 2, tel. 012 252 07 10, fax
012 252 07 12, benef is@hotelbenef is.pl, w w w.
hotelbenefis.pl. A decent deal with bright, sunny rooms
that reflect the age of the hotel - brand new. Of note is the
studio apartment, set at the top of the building complete
with slanted sk ylight and separate lounge area. Q 15
rooms (9 singles 280zł, 9 doubles 300zł, 6 suites 350zł).
RUG hhh
Campanile D-3, ul. Św. Tomasza 34, tel. 012 424 26 00,
fax 012 424 26 01, krakow@campanile.com.pl, www.
campanile.com.pl. The bright rooms come decorated in the
Campanile flagship colours of cream and green, and feature
satellite TV and bathtubs. Ask for one of the top-floor quarters
that overlook the surrounding Planty Park. Q106 rooms
(105 singles 339zł, 105 doubles 339zł, 1 apartment 520zł).
Breakfast 29zł. PTJHARUGKW hh
Chopin Cracow K-2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. 012 299
00 00, fax 012 299 00 01, info@chopinhotel.pl, www.
chopinhotel.com. A modern building offering clean-cut,
functional accommodation and a western attitude to service.
Free wireless internet access for guests, as well as regular
promotions to keep an eye out for. Recent renovations have
seen all the rooms upgraded. Q220 rooms (119 singles
€90 - 102, 119 doubles €102 - 112, 1 apartment €145).
PTHARUFLGKW hhh
Ibis Kraków Centrum A-5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. 012
299 33 00, fax 012 299 33 33, h3710@accor.com,
www.ibishotel.com. You know what to expect with the Ibis
brand. While not an adventurous choice the guys behind the
French chain show an unflagging commitment to maintaining
international standards and high-grade service. Spotless
furnishings and a central location add to the appeal and
rooms have recently been fully renovated. Q175 rooms
(175 singles 269 - 299zł, 175 doubles 269 - 299zł). Breakfast
29zł. PTJA6ULGKW hh
Maltański B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. 012 431
00 10, fax 012 378 93 12, maltanski@donimirski.
com, www.donimirski.com. Enter the lobby, replete with
chequered tiles and fireplace, and you’ll get a preview of the
class that lies behind the façade. Rooms come with fluffy
robes on the beds, cream colour schemes and classic furnish-
ings. Business service on offer include conference facilities,
translation services and organizing temporary office space.
Q16 rooms (16 singles 390 - 480zł, 14 doubles 420 - 510zł).
THARULGK hhh
Instant Kraków
Pollera D-3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. 012 422 10 44, fax 012
422 13 89, rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.
com.pl. A beautiful stained-glass window by Stanisław
Wyspianski over the staircase is the first thing to catch the
eye. The bathrooms and furnishings are old but functional and
the rooms are otherwise fully equipped. You might not get all
new amenities, you do get 150-year-old tradition. Note that
not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q42 rooms (7 singles
380zł, 24 doubles 450zł, 7 triples 540zł, 2 quads 630zł, 2
apartments 640zł). PTJHAKW hhh
Polonia D-2, ul. Basztowa 25, tel. 012 422 12 33, fax
012 422 16 21, rezerwacja@hotel-polonia.com.pl, www.
hotel-polonia.com.pl. Operating since 1917 this grand
corner structure catches the eye the moment you leave the
train station. Guests are greeted with a multi-lingual welcome
and awesome lobby, while suites come decorated in a mock
19th century style that help evoke Kraków’s golden years.
Q62 rooms (10 singles 117 - 295zł, 50 doubles 155 - 360zł,
3 apartments 526zł). JHAKW hhh
Royal C-5, ul. Św. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. 012 421 35 00,
fax 012 421 58 57, royal@holele21.pl, www.royal.com.
pl. A prime location in Planty Park is the setting for this classic
19th century affair. Huge by Kraków standards, this hotel has
a basic one star section, as well as a fully renovated two-star
section featuring spotless bathrooms and fittings. Q110
rooms (35 singles 250 - 300zł, 39 doubles 330 - 390zł, 12
triples 450 - 510zł, 13 quads 570 - 630zł, 4 suites 460 - 570zł,
12 apartments 650zł). TJHARUK hh
Ruczaj G-5, ul. Ruczaj 44, tel. 012 269 10 00, fax 012
269 20 30, ruczaj@ruczajhotel.com.pl, www.ruczajhotel.
com.pl. Set in a new but classically stylish building in a resi-
dential area, the Ruczaj is a lovely hotel for those willing to taxi
into town. All rooms boast unique balconies and furnishings
with an individual touch. Q45 rooms (8 singles 220zł, 17
doubles 300zł, 12 triples 380zł, 4 quads 460zł, 4 apartments
410zł). PTYHAUGKDW hhh
System PREMIUM J-1, Al. 29 listopada 189, tel. 012 614
48 00, fax 012 634 05 08, premium.krk@hotelsystem.pl,
www.hotelsystem.pl. A high-standard modern hotel featuring
that great rarity in Kraków - a good swimming pool. That aside,
guests can expect comfortable rooms fitted with neutral colour
schemes, safe and cable TV. In an added bonus, each room
comes complete with its own PC and free internet access. Q162
rooms (29 singles 229zł, 131 doubles 229zł, 2 apartments 329zł).
Breakfast 33zł. THARUFGKDCW
Wawel C-4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. 012 424 13 00, fax
012 424 13 33, hotel@hotelwawel.pl, www.hotelwawel.
pl. Sweeping renovations have seen the Wawel transformed
into one of top mid-range options in the city. Set inside a
historic townhouse, the 19th century building still has several
secessionist touches, as well as a courtyard which will have
you wishing it was summer all year round. The huge rooms
come decorated with patterned duvets and beige and wood
finishes. Note that not all rooms have air-conditioning. Q39
rooms (36 singles 330 - 380zł, 27 doubles 460zł, 3 apart-
ments 520 - 580zł). PJHALKDW hhh
Budget
Basztowa Guestrooms D-2, ul. Basztowa 24, tel. 012
429 51 81, fax 012 422 16 21, basztowa@room.krakow.
pl, www.hotelsinkrakow.pl. Neat rooms feature parquet
floors and a classic design accentuated by the use of dark
woods and oil paintings. Q24 rooms (22 singles 195zł, 22
doubles 195zł, 2 triples 260zł). Breakfast 18zł. JA
Start H-5, ul. Kapelanka 60, tel. 012 269 22 10, fax
012 269 04 05, rezerwacje@hotelstart.com.pl, www.
hotelstart.com.pl. A recent renovation to this 1980’s
block has raised the star-rating of this hotel to 2-stars
and Start now offer clean, comfortable and very affordable
accommodation a 10-minute taxi ride away from the city
centre. TV and en-suite bathrooms throughout as well as
on-site conference facilities and restaurant are available.
Q66 rooms (42 singles 180zł, 42 doubles 200zł, 14 triples
270zł, 9 quads 320zł, 2 apartments 350zł). Breakfast 15zł.
THAUK hh
Apartments
Affinity Flats B-2, ul. Karmelicka 7, tel. 012 428
72 00, fax 012 428 72 01, info@affinityflats.com,
www.affinityflats.com. Over 18 apartments to choose
from across Kraków, including a riverside location with
views staring right onto Wawel Castle. If you’re looking for
something directly in town then they’ve got flats right in
the centre of old town, or our favourite, a series of Italian-
themed apartments on Karmelicka; situated inside a fully
restored 19th century townhouse, accommodation comes
with underfloor heating in the bathrooms, wifi access, air-
conditioning and 24hr security. A modern aesthetic prevails
with the use of clever colour coordination and top-of-the-
range fittings. Some great individual touches complement
the rooms, including a bay window in the Capri apartment,
and an original aga dating from 1890 in the Roma suite.
Airport pickup and other tourist services also organized.
Q18 rooms (18 apartments €75 - 200). Breakfast €6.
PTJHARGKW hhhh
Apartment Cracow C-2, ul. Floriańska 39, tel./fax
012 431 00 26, info@apartmentskrakow.eu, www.
apartmentskrakow.eu. Several locations around the historic
centre - including Floriańska and Grodzka - with accommoda-
tion fitting upto six people. All apartments come with fully
fitted kitchens, cable TV and internet access, and rooms
come with a pleasant modern aesthetic. Airport pick-up can
also be arranged. Q18 rooms (18 apartments 220 - 440zł).
Breakfast 20zł. TJALGW
Kraków City Apartments D-2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel./
fax 012 431 00 41, info@krakowapartments.info, www.
krakowapartments.info. An old town location, though ac-
commodation comes overlooking a courtyard, guaranteeing a
good nights rest. Lift access means there’s no lugging bags
up stairs, and apartments come with modern furnishings,
living room and kitchen. Most can handle four guests, with
one apartment sleeping up to seven guests. Q8 rooms (8
apartments 200 - 640zł). Breakfast 20zł. TARLG
Old Town Apartments B-3, ul. Gołębia 2/3b, tel. 012
421 42 01, fax 012 430 07 43, krakow@bookaa.net,
www.warsawshotel.com. Warsaw-based agency renting
fully equipped apartments in Cracow’s Old Town. Everything
from efficient studios to 180m2 4-bedroom apartments
convenient for 10 guests. Cheaper rates for longer stays.
Q63 rooms (63 apartments €50 - 200). Breakfast €5.
TA6GW
Redbrick D-1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. 012 628 66 00, fax 012
430 19 19, rezerwacja@redbrick.pl, www.redbrick.pl.
Named after the renovated 19th century red brick building
that houses this magnificent set of apartments. These are
superb lodgings and inspite of the historical surrounds ac-
commodation touts all the trappings of the modern world;
from 32 inch televisions to fully fitted modern kitchens. Those
looking to splash out should consider booking the two level
WHERE TO STAY 8
apartment, equipped to host as many as six people. The
customer is king here and Redbrick can provide transport to
and from the airport, as well as shopping services so all that
you need is already sitting on the shelves upon your arrival.
Q16 rooms (16 apartments 350 - 550zł). Breakfast 25zł.
THARGK
Hostels & Dorms
Greg & Tom D-2, ul. Pawia 12/7, tel. 012 422 41 00,
info@gregtomhostel.com, www.gregtomhostel.com. A
top hostel with a second location on ul. Warszawska 16/5.
Both offer internet, DVD player and bike rental, as well as
hostel standards such as free laundry, kitchen and linen.
Aside from a guaranteed warm welcome, the biggest boon
here is a refusal to pack rooms out with as many beds as
possible, making it ideal for travelling couples. Clean, modern
furnishings, this is as chic as hostelling gets. Q11 rooms (6
doubles 160zł, 3 quads 240zł). 29 dorm beds 50-60zł per
person. AGW
Nathan’s Villa Hostel C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1, tel./
fax 012 422 35 45, krakow@nathansvilla.com, www.
nathansvilla.com. Kraków’s original hostel. There’s been
a million copycats since, but none do it better. That’s partly
down to Nathan, a man who takes the happiness of his guests
seriously - even if it that means drinking till dawn with them.
There’s a bit of a reputation for revelry here, and you’ll find
the party in the basement where a network of chambers
house a bar, pool table and even a mini-cinema. But this is
more than just a hedonists hostel, as proved by the top-notch
conditions of dorms and bathrooms. Capacity is constantly
increasing here, and more ensuite privates have been added
to cater for the higher-class of backpacker. And best of all,
with summer in swing, there’s barbecues each night, with the
proceedings overseen by none other than The Sausage Man.
Q21 rooms (4 singles 160 - 180zł, 4 doubles 160 - 180zł).
118 dorm beds 50-65zł per person. JAGW
The Secret Garden Hostel & Pension D-7, ul.
Skawińska 7, tel./fax 012 430 54 45, info@thesecret-
garden.pl, www.thesecretgarden.pl. Gone are the days
when budget lodgers would cramp into off-season student
dorms or take their chances in seedy hotels. The Secret
Garden is part of a new wave of low-cost options, and it’s
also one of the best. Certainly it’s colourful, first impressions
will leave you asking just how many tins of paint were used in
creating this project. Quarters come with names that leave
you in no doubt what colours to expect on opening the door:
from Clockwork Orange to Vanilla Sky via Mint Sorbet. Dorms
come with comfortable pine bunks, while private rooms are
neat, simple efforts, with the addition of wrough iron furnish-
ings and coluorful bed spreads. The common room is blissful
violet with low-slung sofas and a DVD library to put to the test,
while elsewhere this pension stroke hostel boasts laundry
services, free internet access and a garden for barbecues.
Q18 rooms (11 singles 90zł, 11 doubles 140zł, 4 triples
180zł). 14 dorm beds 50-55zł per person. TAUGW
Out of town
Orient ul. Sołtysowska 25a (Czyżyny), tel. 012 646
91 00, fax 012 646 92 02, rezerwacja@hotelorient.pl,
www.hotelorient.pl. This brand new brick and aquamarine
hotel has managed, impressively, to meld top-notch business
facilities with unique style. All the amenities you could ask for
in addition to original artwork in all the rooms, and rooms for
the disabled. Travel to town with taxis from the stand outside
the hotel. Q58 rooms (56 singles 360zł, 56 doubles 420zł, 3
suites 550zł). PTHARUFLKDC hhhh
August - September 2008
9 RESTAURANTS
With the development of the market in Krakow, the
number and choice of places to eat has become pretty
wide. That doesn’t mean to say that it is all good. Ethnic
cuisines are generalised brutalised in an attempt to make
them acceptable to Polish palates. The figures we quote in
brackets are the cheapest and dearest main courses on
the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by the
restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working.
American
SomePlace Else A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton
Kraków), tel. 012 662 10 00, www.sheraton.com/
krakow. Attached to the Sheraton Hotel SPE is more than
a hotel restaurant, for expats this is every bit as good as
a one-way ticket home. The menu is a classic countdown
of Uncle Sam’s favourites with meals regularly concluding
with deft beneath-the-table manoeuvres to loosen the
belt. As the rock memorabilia and diner décor suggests,
this place doesn’t take itself as seriously as most hotel
eateries, and the results are evident in some seriously lively
nights; plasma screens relay all the big fixtures, while live
bands frequently encourage the visiting business droids
to lose both ties and inhibitions. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Mon, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. (28-80zł).
PTAUBXS
Bagels
Bagelmama D-6, ul. Podbrzezie 2, tel. 012 431 19
42, www.bagelmama.com. It’s hard to call Bagelmama a
restaurant, this is after all essentially no more than an open
kitchen with a couple of tables thrown in on the customer
side. Your reason for dropping in are the best bagels in Po-
land, served up by the American exile Nava, a man whose
fans include John McEnroe. Cinnamon, poppy seed and garlic
bagels come with toppings that range from tuna to curry, and
there’s also an expanded menu featuring extras like tortilla
wraps, salads and burritos. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. (6-15zł). GS
French
Cyrano de Bergerac C-2, ul. Sławkowska 26, tel. 012
411 72 88, www.cyranodebergerac.pl. No foolhardy
attempts at foreign cuisine here, just top class food in a top
class atmosphere. Kraków’s finest French restaurant is a
magnificent white tablecloth affair, steeped in tradition and
famed throughout the city for scores of dishes including an
exceptional foie gras and the occasional experimental hit. Set
against a backdrop of antiques and tapestries and located
in a classic medieval cellar, if you’re going to push the boat
out while you’re in town, there are few better places to push
it than here, and that’s a fact recognized by none other than
the Michelin Guide. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (44-
80zł). TAREBXS
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
J Old Town location 6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi
Instant Kraków
La Fontaine C-3, ul. Sławkowska 1, tel. 012 422 65 64,
www.bblafontaine.com. The decent courtyard terrace is
the pick of places to eat at La Fontaine, where good French
food is served by well-trained staff who actually appear to
enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly, as he turns
out classics such as medallions of veal with chanterelle
mushrooms, or fresh foie gras with port and armagnac. The
set tasting menus are good value at 65zł. QOpen 12:00 -
23:00. (39-54zł). PTAUBX
Fusion
Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www.
karmelicka52.com. A completely un-Krakowian effort with a
futuristic design that relies on clever lighting, a spacious set up and
a slick atmosphere more commonly associated with the lounge
bars of the capital. By day the menu is as adventurous as any you’ll
come across in Kraków with asian styled fusion offerings picked at
by a chic crowd. The darker it gets the more this place melts into a
pre-club spot, with Bambi girls sipping expert cocktails. QOpen
11:00 - 22:00. (18-50zł). PTAUBXSW
Hungarian
Deli Bar D-6, ul. Meiselsa 5, tel. 012 430 64 04, www.
delibar.pl. A bright modern eatery whose orange walls come
decorated with blow-up photos of paprika and goulash. It
doesn’t take a brainbox to work out what’s the order of the
day here, this place is Hungarian through and through, and
you’ll find a stack of red hot, spicy dishes on the list here.
And it’s not just the bloodthirsty who’re catered for here, non-
carnivores get a fair choice of fish, salads and soups to test.
Best of all, the price to quality ratio is positively off-the-scale.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (8-25zł). TGBS
International
A1 B-3, ul. Św. Anny 6, tel. 012 421 01 44. Situated within
dancing distance of the Rynek this newbie was literally just
opening their doors as we hit the printing press, and all we
can say so far is they’ll be offering up a mix of Mediterranean
dishes and sushi. Full review on it’s way.QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (25-89zł). PTAEBXSW
Amadeus D-3, ul. Mikołajska 20 (Amadeus Hotel), tel.
012 423 03 40, www.restauracja-amadeus.pl. Classy
staff serve Polish classics taken to new heights in sumptuous
surroundings. In other words, a treat. Try the classic żurek
soup - we do not think we have ever tatsed better - before
moving on to the superb roast pork with fried sauerkraut and
potato puree: you will wonder how such simple flavours can
be so rich. But that is the whole point of Amadeus: simplicity
and class win over every time. Recommended most heartedly.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-99zł). PTYAUEX
Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. An attractive modern space
that has created plenty of ripples with a drinks menu that is
second to none - 100 vodkas says it all. But it’s not just about
drinking, and there’s a menu to peruse that includes a decent
spread of salad, grilled salmon and even fried ice cream. This
place could well prove to be the hit of the summer. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (17-38zł). PAXSW
Cul-De-Sac D-3, ul. Na Gródku 4 (Gródek Hotel), tel.
012 431 20 41, www.donimirski.com. Occupying a space
inside the Hotel Gródek Cul de Sac is the definitive dining ex-
perience. The menu is short and concise, and features beauti-
fully presented delicacies like veal cutlets served with mint. A
Kraków highlight and defnitely a place for romancing.QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (56-79zł). PTJAUGBSW
Milk & Co B-4, ul. Straszewskiego 17 (Radisson SAS
Hotel), tel. 012 618 88 55, www.radissonsas.com.
Two things bring us back to Milk & Co time and time again:
the first is the lunchtime buffet, a bargian at 69zł give that
you get to choose from some superb food and that you can
always bank on meeting a familiar face tucking inot his or her
smoked salmon. Secondly, the Surf & Turf extravaganza on
Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights
is - at 120zł - Krakow’s best kept secret. Enjoy giant praws
alongside tender juicy steaks and ribs and to hell with the
calories. No wonder reservations are essential. And no, the
fish in the tanks are not part of the buffet.Q Open 06:30
- 10:30, 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:30 - 23:00. (23-88zł).
PTAUEGSW
Pod Różą (Under the Rose) C-2, ul. Floriańska 14
(Pod Różą Hotel), tel. 012 424 33 81, www.hotel.com.
pl. Excellent Polish and European cuisine served under a
glass-covered atrium in the Pod Różą hotel. A piano sits
on a raised platform, and higher up there’s a balcony with
tables overlooking the main floor. The menu features a
veritable list of birds and forest animals, including a rather
tasty dead bambi. Prices are high for Krakow, but then
so are the standards. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (69-89zł).
PTJAESW
Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1, tel. 012
374 13 10, www.podwinogronami.pl. There are fine
restaurants in Kraków, and then there is this place.
Located in the gorgeous Pałac Bonerowski hotel, this
is a classy dining room that makes the prefect location
for romantic evenings out, business lunches or sheer
culinary pleasure-fests. Try to get here at the weekend:
from Thursday to Sunday there is a special fish menu,
which - despite all apperances and assumptions - is
incredibly well priced. Sea bass with artichokes a crack-
ing treat at 49zł. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. (29-89zł).
PTAUBXSW
San Sebastian Café D-5, ul. Św. Sebastiana 25,
tel. 012 429 24 76, www.sansebastian.pl. Impresses
each time we visit, and definitely one of the best meals in
Kraków. A clean wooden décor and dusky lighting make it
a good venue to enjoy a glass of wine in their café section,
before moving onto their dining room to check out their
Mediterranean menu. The service is fun and flirty, and
though the portions can verge on scanty the meals are
generally highly commended - try the beef fillet in mushroom
sauce. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (21-70zł).
PTABSW
Senacka C-4, ul. Grodzka 51, (Senacki Hotel), tel. 012
421 11 61, www.senacki.krakow.pl. Situated in the hotel
of the same name this restaurant comes complete with
chandeliers and timber-beamed ceilings, while the kitchen
staff demonstrate an unflagging commitment to excellence.
The menu alternates between Polish and international stan-
dards, and never fails. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (35-60zł).
PTAUBSW
Szara (Grey) C-3, Rynek Główny 6, tel. 012 421
66 69, www.szara.pl. An important looking restaurant
which seems to draw most tourists at least once during
their stay. Vaulted ceilings, crisp linen and an atmosphere
of complete elegance make it a great venue for your
special ‘last night meal’, and the food rarel y disap-
points. Choose from dishes like salmon in teriyaki sauce
in what has come to be known as one of the hotspots
of Kraków’s culinary stage. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (37-
79zł). PTAUBSW
RESTAURANTS 10
No thank you
Polish restaurant tipping etiquette can be confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilised countries it’s normal
to say thanks when a waiter collects the money, you’ll
be horrified to learn that in Poland uttering the word
‘dziękuje’ (thank you), or even thank you in English, is the
sign that you won’t be wanting any change back. This
cultural slip-up can get very expensive. We have heard
instances of a customer leaving a 200zł note for an 80zł
meal and then having to chase down the cheeky wait-
ress to ask for the change. And while this is an extreme
case, this happens far more often that you’d expect.
To put things into context, even though salaries have
risen for wait staff in the last couple of years thanks to
a severe lack of supply, a typical waiter/waitress would
be receiving around 10-15zł per hour. The waitress above
assumed that the client wanted to leave a whole day’s
salary. Nice work if you can get it.
What’s more, the waiter will do his or her best to a) make
you feel deeply embarrassed if you try to get anything
back b) conveniently disappear having pocketed your
change or c) play the fool and suggest that it is your
fault. We suggest that you only say thank you if you are
happy for the wait staff to keep the change. Otherwise
we advise you to use the word ‘proszę’ only when handing
back the bill and the payment. One final tip and this is to
demonstrate we are not completely anti wait staff. If you
add a tip to your credit card payment the wait-staff have
to pay tax on it. Anything that you give in cash probably
isn’t declared. So if you do receive good service we urge
you to reward it and to make a tip in the form of cash.
The Olive A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków
Hotel), tel. 012 662 16 80, w w w.sheraton.com/
krakow. Top class Mediterranean dishes served inside
the imperial environs of the Sheraton. The glass roof
makes it possible to dine under the stars while the foliage
dotted around adds to the al fresco atmosphere. The
best ingredients money can buy are complemented by
graceful service and some superb live piano. Fine dining
at its best. Q Open 06:30 -10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00
- 22:30, Sat 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30,
Sun 07:00 - 10:30, 12:00 - 17:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (47-
89zł). PTAUEXW
The Piano Rouge C-3, Rynek Główny 46, tel.
012 431 03 33, w w w.thepianorouge.com. A sen-
sor y deligh t wi th crimson flourish es, feath er y b oas
and gil t picture frames providin g an air of Parisien
de caden ce. A pri vate memb ers area and a pair of
black-sui ted door police add an air of exclusi vi t y while
th e li ve jaz z music played in th e back ground is wor th
th e visi t alone. Th e menu is high-end European, and
brough t to you by a busy team of wai tresses dressing
in evenin g wear. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. (25-78zł).
PAEBXW
Italian
Al Dente E-6, ul. Kupa 12, tel. 012 430 04 18, www.
aldente-krakow.com. A light and airy room with a cream
and modern look. This is where the local sophisticates
have been seen heading, drawn no doubt by Sardinian
cuisine prepared by the imported chef. Authenticity is
topped off by the ingredients, most of which come shipped
direct from I tal y. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (18-46zł).
PTAUBSW
August - September 2008
11 RESTAURANTS
Aqua e Vino B-3, ul. Wiślna 5/10, tel. 012 421 25
67, w w w.aquaevino.pl. The most exciting develop-
ment Kraków’s foodie scene has witnessed for quite
some time. Italian owned, this chic cellar space comes
decorated in a minimalist style with cream and black
colour combinations, and an atmosphere redolent of
downtown Milan. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the
beautifully presented dishes come cooked up by house
chef Francesco. Already earning rave reviews from all
corners, this merits a place on any ‘must visit’ list you
may be keeping. Q Open 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00. (25-56zł). PTAXS
Corleone C-4, ul. Poselska 19, tel. 012 429 51 26,
www.corleone.krakow.pl. Yellowing vaulted walls cluttered
with pictures and wine bottles cast a warm glow on this effort,
making it a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of
the tourist nearby tourist trail. The menu waltzes through the
best of Italian cooking, with the lamb cutlets winning particular
praise from this reviewer. Italian cuisine has exported effort-
lessly to Kraków, and this is one of the highlights. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (20-58zł). TAEBXSW
Il Calzone D-4, ul. Starowiślna 15a, tel. 012 429 51
41, www.ilcalzone.pl. The cornerstones of Italian cooking
served inside an interior redolent of a basic neighbourhood
trattoria. The pizza is good, but if you want to go beyond that
then the grilled sirloin comes recommended, while the panna
cotta makes for a good conclusion. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-38zł). PTAUBXSW
Mamma Mia B-2, ul. Karmelicka 14, tel. 012 430 04
92, www.mammamia.net.pl. Find Krakow’s best pizza on
a street that’s exploded into life of late. The vast range of
pizzas are dispatched from a traditional wood fired oven and
the choice of numerous other Italian standards prove Mamma
Mia is more than a one trick pony. The interior - clever lighting
and exposed bricks - makes for a cool backdrop for casual
dining, and their growing army of regulars are testament to
Mamma Mia’s growing reputation. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(14-40zł). PTAUGBS
Pizzeria Trzy Papryczki C-4, ul. Poselska 17, tel.
012 292 55 32, www.trzypapryczki.krakow.pl. This
new venture wins our gold gong for Kraków’s best pizza, a
sentiment shared by pretty much anyone whose come into
contact with this place. Either do your dining in their knockout
back garden, or take to a dusky lit dining room complete with
log fire and wall frescoes. The pizza here can get seriously
experimental with choices including roast turkey, almonds
and avocado, and the chef also extends his repertoire to
cover numerous other Italian dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
(16-40zł). TABS
Trattoria Pod Winogronami C-3, ul. Św. Jana 1
(Bonerowski Palace Hotel), tel. 012 374 13 10, www.
podwinogronami.pl. Dine under scrubbed vaulted ceilings
in what is sure to become known as some of the best Italian
food in the city. Upmarket, without being over-the-top in style
and formality, this place is pleasing enough on the eye. Head
chef Lorenzo has been imported from Italy, and you can trust
him to give you your moneys worth. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(16-49zł). PTAUBXSW
Trattoria Soprano B-3, ul. Św. Anny 7, tel. 012 422
51 95, www.trattoriasoprano.pl. Warm glowing colours
and a good clutter of plants and ceramics generate plenty
of atmosphere, while the chef does the rest. Pretty good,
both in quality and price. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (32-61zł).
PTAXS
Instant Kraków
Japanese
Edo Sushi D-6, ul. Bożego Ciała 3, tel. 012 422 24 24,
www.edosushi.pl. Kraków’s best sushi inside a calm envi-
ronment filled with taped bird songs and rice-paper panels.
The menu is huge, the raw fish excellent, and the prices a
fraction of what they should be. Check out the private room; a
traditional shoes off experience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (39-99zł). PAUBXSW
Sushi Bar Sakana C-2, ul. Sławkowska 5-7, tel. 012
429 30 86, www.sakana.pl. Sushi authorities who’ve found
themselves journeying around Poland will already be familiar
with the Sakana brand. With outlets in Poznań, Wrocław and
Warsaw, opening in Kraków was always the next step, and
the team at Sakana have recreated exactly what you’ll find
in their sister restaurants; excellent fresh sushi served up in
a bamboo clad interior decorated sparingly with rice paper
panels and lanterns. Enjoy a cleansing miso soup, or opt
for expertly prepared sets of Californian maki made by staff
clearly schooled in the delicate art of Japanese culinary mas-
tery. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (30-80zł).
PTAUGSW
Mediterranean
Il Fresco H-4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Niebieski Hotel), tel. 012
431 18 58, www.ilfresco.krakow.pl. The showpiece res-
taurant of the Hotel Niebieski, though worth exploration even
if you’re not lodging upstairs. Find inventive Mediterranean
dishes artistically presented, and served in a background
that frequently resounds to the sound of live music. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00. (25-59zł). PTAUGBSW
Polish
Brzozowy Gaj J-3, ul. Brzozowa 18, tel. 012 292 33
17, www.brzozowygaj.pl. Decorated in the log-cutters
style this venue is a preview shot of Zakopane life - here it’s
all chunky tables and ceramic trinkets bought from the dodgy
tourist stalls you’d usually avoid. The menu is meat heavy,
and you can expect anything that ever lived on a farm to be
hacked up and presented before you. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(30-80zł). PTAIXS
Chłopskie Jadło C-3, ul. Św. Jana 3, tel. 012 429 51 57,
www.chlopskiejadlo.pl. A usually reliable romp through the
glories of Polish country cooking. The menu is a labyrinth of
peasant dishes, with a vast choice of what nomrally amounts
to enormous helpings of meat and potatoes, and compli-
mentary lard to start your meal. Bright blue interiors come
decorated with jars and pickles and strings of sausages, and
staff are kitted out like saucy country wenches. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (13-38zł). PTAXS
Kawaleria Szarża Smaku (Cavalery) B-3, ul. Gołębia
4, tel. 012 430 24 32, www.kawaleria.com.pl. Three
vaulted rooms decorated with an equine motif - paint-
ings of Cossacks and jockeys hang alongside sabres and
hunting trophies - as well as an atmospheric whitewashed
courtyard decorated featuring a stone fireplace and potted
shrubbery. The menu is a strong review of upmarket Polish
dishes with wild boar and suchlike making appearances.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (27-69zł).
TYAUBXSW
Miód Malina (Honey Raspberry) C-4, ul. Grodzka
40, tel. 012 430 04 11, www.miodmalina.pl. Consis-
tently excellent meals have seen Miod Malina establish
themselves as one of the top restaurants in town, so book
ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka views afforded
by the raised window-side seating. This cheerful looking
restaurant comes with raspberries painted onto the walls
and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker evenings.
Floral touches aplenty here, lending a storybook, candy
cottage atmosphere to this place, while the menu mixes
up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices remain
pegged generously low making a visit here not just recom-
mended but essential. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (17-56zł).
PTABXS
Pod Krzyżykiem (Under the Cross) C-3, Rynek
Główny 39, tel. 012 433 70 10, www.podkrzyzykiem.
com. Brimming with bizarre furnishings, including a section of
glass flooring, the overall effect isn’t unlike climbing inside a
giant Dali painting; the strange sculptures and stained glass
are a great conversation point if you’re on a tricky first date.
Service is young and flawless, while the revamped menu offers
top-calibre local and European dishes beautifully presented.
QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (42-59zł).
PTABXS
Starka D-6, ul. Józefa 14, tel. 012 430 65 38,
www.starka.com.pl. The vodka concoctions here are
fabulous, but don’t dare get ruined on them before you
experience the restaurant out back - schoolboy error.
Scarlet walls choc-a-block with black and white etchings
provide a cool atmosphere to drop back into the leather
seating before diving into a menu filled with perfectly
prepared Polish dishes.Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. (23-43zł).
PTAXSW
Wesele C-3, Rynek Główny 10, tel. 012 422 74
60. If you’re a fan of Miod Malina, and let’s face it, who
isn’t, then we’ve got some good news for you. Namely
the opening of Wesele, a project brought to you by the
CAR HIRE & TRANSPORT SERVICES IN KRAKÓW
We can help you to arrange all kinds of transport in Kraków and
within the whole of Poland and Europe, starting with a wide range
of 40 car models. Flexibility, competitive prices and simple
rental conditions are combined with professional and helpful
assistance to guarantee that we fully fulfill your needs.
Our vast car rental database in Kraków enables you to hire
the perfect car for your stay in Poland. We are able to offer a
number of different cars at optimal rates. Even if your chosen
model is unavailable, we will find you a similar option at a com-
parable price. What’s more, the offer covers both automatic
and manual transmission models. Your car can be delivered
to the airport, your hotel or to any other place in Kraków
which is extremely convenient, especially if you are visiting
the city for the first time. We are also flexible with regards
to the drop-off point once you are finished with the vehicle.
To ensure peace of mind, we provide you with transparent
rental conditions and co-operate only with trustworthy car
rental suppliers in Kraków and other Polish towns.
TYPICAL CAR RENTAL PRICES/ DAY:
Mitsubishi Mirage 1.5L: 33 – 43 EUR
Opel Astra Classic III 1.6L: 51 – 83 EUR
Chrysler Voyager 3.3L: 83 – 139 EUR
If you do not wish to be a driver of your rented car, you could
consider the offer of transfers and chauffeured limousines
at a range of prices. These offer particular comfort and con-
venience if you need transportation to and from the airport to
RESTAURANTS 12
same gang behind MM. If your Polish is as good as your
Chinese then the first thing you’ll need to know is what the
name means - it’s ‘wedding’, and the interiors are a dead
giveaway, filled with ribbons, flowers and candles. It’s an
impressive venue alright, and with all the clinking glasses
and smiley people it doesn’t take much vision to imagine
you actually have gate crashed a wedding. It’s a super
venue, and the menu doesn’t come second fiddle. This is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant,
and the goose breast is fabulous.QOpen 09:00 - 23:00.
(18-64zł). PTAUGBSW
Wierzynek C-3, Rynek Główny 15, tel. 012 424 96
00, www.wierzynek.pl. Quite a launch party this place:
according to legend the opening night back in 1364 was
attended by five kings and nine princes. Since then it’s
been one esteemed guest after another, with former diners
including De Gaulle, Bush, Castro and other bods who influ-
ence the way the globe spins. A set of wooden stairs lead
to a series of imposing rooms decked out with tapestries
and plantlife while a seriously high-end menu includes stur-
geon, deer and lamb. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. (30-125zł).
PTABXSW
Vegetarian
Vega D-4, ul. Św. Gertrudy 7, tel. 012 422 34 94, www.
vegarestauracja.com.pl. Immediately east of the old town
with a view of the Planty through the large windows, arguably
Kraków’s best strictly vegetarian restaurant is an exceedingly
feminine affair. A somewhat sombre atmosphere is lifted a
little with the addition of hundreds of dried flowers, and the
food, when it arrives, is actually rather good. If you’re not
a fan of what rabbits like to eat, check out the better than
average salad bar. Also at ul. Krupnicza 22 (A-2) QOpen
09:00 - 21:00. (8-12zł). TAGS
the hotel or any other destination
in Kraków, Poland or abroad.
Among the models offered are
economy and business options
as well as beautiful, classic cars.
English-speaking drivers are
available to add to the comfort of
service and we also can accommodate special requests.
Cars are a convenient form of transport, but we know
that sometimes other forms are more appropriate. If you
need to travel with a larger group, you can take coaches
and mini-buses into consideration. We provide luxury, air-
conditioned models and safe budget options if you want
to find the lowest possible cost.
If you need really fast travel in Poland or Europe, we have
a very special offer where we can organise private air taxi
flights tailored to your needs.
Feel free to contact us and we will be happy to help you
with any of your transportation arrangements in Kraków or
throughout. Don’t hesitate to ask about particular details
and requirements – we are here to find the best offer for
you. To contact us email us at iyp@staypoland.com or call
our reservation centre on +48 - 22 351 22 35.
August - September 2008
13 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 14

Old St. Nick’s Pub C-6, ul. Św. Agnieszki 1 (Nathan’s

If you believe urban legend Kraków has the highest density
of bars in the world. Simply hundreds of bars can be found
in cellars and courtyards stretching from the Old Town
to Kazimierz. It’s been fun testing them out, now it’s your
turn. In spite of high tourism, prices remain low. Expect to
pay around 5zł for a large beer. The opening hours we list
are flexible, basically if people are drinking, the barman is
pouring.
Bars & Pubs
Villa Hostel), tel. 012 422 35 45, www.nathansvilla.
com. The flagship bar of Nathan’s Villa Hostel, so expect
crowds of backpackers drinking with debauched abandon
and the raucous atmosphere you’d expect when people
don’t have to work the next day. Lucky buggers. Split into
four rooms including a billiard room, separate smoking lounge
and a main bar area, which frequently hosts live music and
impromptu acts of depravity. No problem mingling, and the
quiz nights on Monday and Thursday attract a number of lo-
cal expats taking advantage of the cut-price beer. QOpen
12:00 - 01:00. PUBX
Paparazzi D-3, ul. Mikołajska 9, tel. 012 429 45 97,
www.paparazzi.com.pl. Kraków cocktail culture started
here. This long, narrow space opens up at the back with
a decent room featuring whirring fans and pics of celebs
practicing their pout. The cocktail list is second to none and
this remains first choice for anyone looking to clinch deals
over invigorating concoctions fixed by a team of specialists.
QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. From September Open 11:00 - 01:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. PAW
Pod Papugami Irish Pub C-2, ul. Św. Jana 18, tel.
012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. You may
remember Pod Papugami as an underground labyrinth filled
with foggy alcoves and dark tunnels. Well they’ve now ex-
panded, taking control of the ground floor space and doubling
their capacity. They’ve done a good job on the refurb, with all
the requisite carved wood, blackened pots and even a set of
19th century golf clubs and this is nothing less than the full
diddly-di experience - right down to those posters of a toucan
with a pint of black stuff balanced on his beak. The Guinness
here stands alongside the best, while a healthy smattering
of plasma screens mean there’s no chance of putting your
neck out while craning over a tall bloke for a view of the game.
Clubs blackness descends, hiding the scabby rugs and fading
photos from view. Mind the steps and wobbles that hijack your
Krakow has a healthy number of clubs dotted around the attempts at effortless cool, and note that the bar is strictly
city with parties going on pretty much most evenings. For self-service. Completely weird, and highly recommended.
the latest in what’s on check out the English-language QOpen 09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00. PAEB
where2b.org website.
Propaganda E-6, ul. Miodowa 20, tel. 012 292 04 02.
Cień (The Shadow) C-2, ul. Św. Jana 15 (Courtyard), The interior is an amazing museum of communist scrap:
tel. 012 422 21 77, www.cienklub.com. Do expect to from scruffy posters of Lenin to medals, mannequins and
queue at weekends, and wear your best wardrobe if you chunky radios. Mad dog (Wściekły pies) - a lethal combination
want the chance to party alongside platinum waifs and of vodka, Tabasco and sweet syrup - is there to help your
other beautiful creatures. A welcome break from Kraków’s foggy journey into socialist paradise. A must see. QOpen
more mainstream spaces expect to find top house sounds 11:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 05:00. B
being played to a chemical crowd inside a cavernous set of
medieval vaults. QOpen 21:00 - 06:00, Sun 21:00 - 03:00.
PABW Jazz clubs
Boogie D-3, ul. Szpitalna 9, tel. 012 429 43 06, www.
Enso A-1, ul. Karmelicka 52, tel. 012 633 65 20, www. boogiecafe.pl. Cream and black colour schemes, lacquered
ensoclub.com. Open Friday’s and Saturday’s only, but well surfaces and pictures of jazz legends combine to create a
worth saving yourself for. This place has made a hot start, seductive atmosphere in this, one of Kraków’s top jazz bars.
attracting a young, well groomed crowd of beautiful things. They’ve reopened following a brief refit, though you’d never
A lot of effort has been paid to the design, which can best know anything has changed. The concerts can be top-notch.
be described as futuristic, and the sound system is top QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PAUEBXW
notch. Clearly it’s cocktails that are the order of the day
here, and the bar staff aren’t afraid to experiment. QOpen Stalowe Magnolie (Steel Magnolias) C-2, ul. Św.
, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Jana 15, tel. 012 422 84 72, www.stalowemagnolie.
PABW com. Not dissimilar to a Parisien brother the interior is an
appealing blend of scarlet fabrics and deep sofas, with
In Kazimierz strings of red fairy lights hanging from wrought iron fixtures.
Instruments cling to the walls and a team of waitresses in
Alchemia E-6, ul. Estery 5, tel. 012 421 22 00, www. evening dress bring premium-priced drinks to your table. The
alchemia.com.pl. Beret-clad theatre queers sit alongside live music is frequently outstanding, with velvet-voiced chan-
students studying by candlelight inside this piece of Kraków teuses crooning into the night to the appreciative applause
folklore. The daylight that peers through the shutters reveals of sharply attired couples. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
signs of serious neglect, but that becomes forgotten as 18:00 - 04:00. PAUE

Aloha Café D-6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel. 012 421 25 89,
www.alohacafe.pl. Kraków’s only Hawaiian pub features a
drinks list with David Hasselhoff on the front, seashells under
glass flooring and walls adorned with photos of palm lined
beaches. This is as wacky as drinking in Kraków gets, and
best of all they plan on installing telephones on each table -
meaning you get the chance to call that tasty girl winking at
you. QOpen 15:00 - 03:00. AW
Baroque C-2, ul. Św. Jana 16. Split into two rooms sepa-
rated by heavy wooden doors Baroque is a sharp and modern
space that mixes in the new with the old. It looks attractive
enough, but there’s one reason alone to be visiting this
Godsend, and that’s the presence of cocktails that rate as
QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAUE
QUBE A-5, ul. Powiśle 7 (Sheraton Kraków Hotel), tel.
012 662 16 74, www.sheraton.com.pl/krakow. Beautiful
waitresses glide around delivering cocktails fixed by expert
bar staff. Found inside the Sheraton’s showpiece atrium,
QUBE’s claim to fame is over 200 brands of vodka, as well
as a genius resident pianist. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
08:00 - 02:00. PAUEW
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Instant Kraków August - September 2008

15 WHAT TO SEE STREET REGISTER 16

of the 15th century German artist Veit Stoss (aka Wit al. Krasińskiego A-4/5 Gołębia B-3 Michałowskiego A-1/2 Powroźnicza A-6 Św. Filipa C/D-1
Stwosz), and depicts the Virgin Mary’s Quietus among the Asnyka B-1/2 Grabowskiego A-1 Mikołajska C/D-3 Pułaskiego A-6/7 Św. Gertrudy C/D-4/5
Augustiańska D-6-7 Grodzka C-3/5 Miodowa D/E-5/6 Radziwiłłowska E-2/3 Św. Idziego C-5
apostles. Surrounding the altar are polychrome paintings
Bałuckiego A-6 Grzegórzecka E-4 Monte Cassino A-7 Rajska A-2 Św. Jana C-2/3
by Matejko, Mehoffer and Wyspiański. Elsewhere around
Barska A/B-6/7 Izaaka D/E-6 Mostowa D/E-7 Reformacka A/B-2 Św. Katarzyny D-6/7
the old town don’t miss the opportunity one of only five Da
Bartosza E-6 Jagiellońska B-2/3 Na Gródku D-3 Retoryka A-4 Św. Krzyża D-3
Vinci paintings on display in the world – find his Lady with
Basztowa C/D-2 Jakuba E-6 Na Przejściu E-6 Różana A-6 Św. Marka C/D-2/3
an Ermine on display at the Czartoryski Museum (D-2,
Berka Joselewicza E-5 Józefa D/E-6 Ogrodowa D-1 Rynek Dębnicki A-6 Św. Sebastiana C/E-5
ul. Św. Jana 19). Bernardyńska B/C-5/6 Kanonicza C-4/5 Orzeszkowej C-6/7 Rynek Główny C-3 Św. Stanisława C-7
Biskupia B-1 Kapucyńska A/B-3 Paderewskiego C/D-1 Rynek Kleparski C/D-1 Św. Tomasza B/D-2/3
Be sure to walk what is known as the Royal Road: starting Bonerowska E-4 Karmelicka A/B-1/2 Paulińska C-6/7 Rzeszowska E-6 Św. Wawrzyńca D/E-6/7
at (D-2) Floriańska Gate make your way past the Sukiennice Bonifraterska D-7 Kilińskiego A-7 Pawia D-1/2 Sandomierska A/B-6 Szczepańska B/C-2/3
and St Mary’s Cathedral in the town square, and down (C-4) Bosacka E-1/2 Kochanowskiego A-1/2 Piekarska C/D-7 Sarego C/D-4/5 Szeroka E-6
ul. Grodzka where you will pass the church of (C-4) St Peter Bożego Ciała D-6/7 Koletek C-6 Pijarska C/D-2 Senacka C-4 Szewska B-2/3
and Paul. The walk concludes at (B/C-5) Wawel Castle: the Bracka C-3/4 Kołłątaja E-3 Piłsudskiego A/B-3/4 Siedleckiego E-4/5 Szpitalna C/D-2/3
defining landmark of the city, and in itself worthy of several Brzozowa D-5 Konfederacka A-7 pl. Bawół E-6 Siemiradzkiego A-1 Tenczyńska B-4
hours of exploration. For Poles this castle and cathedral Bułhaka A-7 Konopnickiej A/B-5/7 pl. Bernardyński C-5 Sienna C-3/4 Trynitarska D/E-7
complex is a symbol of national strength and patriotism; Ciemna E-6 Kopernika D/E-3 pl. Biskupi B/C-1 Skałeczna C/D-7 Warszauera D/E-6
the ancient home of kings, and the material embodiment of Cybulskiego A-3 Krakowska D-6/7 pl. gen. Sikorskiego A-3 Skawińska C/D-7 Warszawska D-1
Polish resistance and culture. It has certainly survived the Czapskich A-3 Kremerowska A-1 pl. Kossaka A-5 Skłodowskiej-Curie D/E-3 Wasilewskiego A-7
vicissitudes of time - for instance, the castle came within Czysta A-2 Krótka C-1 pl. Mariacki C-3 Skwerowa A-7 Wąska E-6
a whisker of being flattened by the retreating Nazi’s. For Dajwór E-6 Krowoderska C-1 pl. Matejki D-1/2 Sławkowska C-2/3 Węglowa D-7
foreign visitors Wawel is an unforgettable journey through Dębowa A-7 Krupnicza A/B-2/3 pl. Na Groblach B-4/5 Smocza B-6 Wenecja A-3
the history of Poland. Perched on top of a 50m-high rock Dietla C/E-4/6 Krzywa C-1 pl. Nowy D-6 Smoleńsk A/B-4 Westerplatte D-2/3
on the edge of old town, it is today remarkably intact and Długa C-1 ks. Kordeckiego C-6/7 pl. Słowiański C-1 Sobieskiego Jana III A/B-1 Wiślna B-3
accessible to visitors, though in an effort to preserve the Dolnych Młynów A-2 Kupa E-6 pl. Św. Ducha D-2 Sołtyka E-3/4 Worcela D-2
exhibits only a limited number of visitors are allowed to Dominikańska C-4 Kurniki D-1 pl. Św. Marii Magdaleny C-4 Spasowskiego A/B-1 Wrzesińska E-4
enter each day. Droga do Zamku B/C-5-6 Lewkowa E-6 pl. Szczepański B-2 Starowiślna D/E-4/6 Wygoda A-4
Untouched by the fiery fate shared by most Polish cities at Dunajewskiego B/C-2 Łobzowska B-1/2 pl. Wolnica D-7 Stefana Batorego A/B-1 Zacisze D-1/2
the end of WWII Kraków’s historic centre has largely survived Further on is (D/E-6) Kazimierz, the district that housed Estery D-6 Loretańska A-2/3 pl. Wszytkich Świętych C-4 Stolarska C-3/4 Zamenhofa D/E-2
in its original form, and today ranks as one of Europe’s great Krakow’s Jews for some 500 years. In the last decade it Feldmana A-1 Lubicz D/E-2 Podbrzezie D-5/6 Stradomska C/D-5/6 Zamkowa A-6
unspoiled cities. The old town has done well to survive the has been rediscovered, and its hollowed-out Jewish culture Felicjanek A-4 Madalińskiego A-6 Podgórska E-7 Strzelecka E-2 Zegadłowicza A-4
Floriańska C/D-2/3 Mała A-4 Podwale B-2/3 Studencka A/B-3 Zwierzyniecka A/B-4/5
vicissitudes of time, from great fires to Tartar invasions. Most gradually reintroduced. Famous for its associations with
Franciszkańska B/C-4 Mały Rynek C-3 Podzamcze B/C-5 Sukiennicza C-6 Zyblikiewicza D/E-3/4
recently the post-war construction of Nowa Huta threatened Schindler and Spielberg, there’s more to the historic Jewish
Garbarska B-2 Meiselsa D-6 Poselska B/C-4 Św. Agnieszki C-6
to cast a polluted shroud over the old town, with drifting quarter than cemeteries and synagogues. Lying between
Gazowa E-7 Metalowców E-3/4 Powiśle A/B-5 Św. Anny B-3
industrial winds blackening the buildings of the old town and shops selling buttons and spanners, you’ll find the heart
destroying the gold covered dome of Wawel’s St Sigismund’s of Krakow’s edgy, artistic character. Peeling façades and
Chapel. The decline of Nowa Huta’s economic importance, wooden shutters hide dozens of smoky cafes, each one
and over two decades of meticulous restoration work, has effecting an air of pre-war timelessness. This is an area of City Tours
seen Kraków return to its full splendor and its chocolate Krakow that cannot be missed. Crossing the river will take
box old town is a must on any international itinerary. Today you across to the Podgórze district, the site of the former Kraków is a city that needs little promotion. Millions of a trip to the Auschwitz-
Krakow’s dusty courtyards and web of streets are home to Jewish Ghetto. Today fragments of the Ghetto wall can be visitors have discovered that it is a wonderful place Birkenau Museum and
some 2.3 million registered artworks, and some of the most viewed, as can the sight of Oskar Schindler’s factory (K-4, to visit, no matter if you are looking to sightsee, take a memorial site starts
significant historical sites in the country. ul. Lipowa 4). Penetrate Kraków’s suburbs even deeper and romantic break or have a party weekend. from €34. You can also
you’ll discover the disused quarry that was formerly home visit both these places
The main market square (C-3 Rynek) serves as Kraków’s to the Nazi Plaszów Labour Camp, and the fearsome Nowa If you are interested in sightseeing in Kraków, check our during the Oświęcim &
gravitational centre, and is the natural start and finish point Huta conurbation – one of only two Socialist Realist cities wide range of guided tours (including walking, coach or Wieliczka tour (from €53).
for any tour of the city. Originally designed in 1257 - the year to be built. limousine tours), all lead by a local expert. Kraków City Częstochowa is a bit
Kraków was awarded its charter - the gridlike layout of the Walk is a perfect introduction to explore the old town further, but certainly worth
old town and its central square has changed little in the years You’ll find more about Krakow’s sights, fully up to date prices with its famous Market Square and Wawel Hill for prices a visit to see its imposing monastery with the miraculous
that have followed. Measuring 200 x 200m, the Rynek ranks and opening hours in the full print edition of Krakow In Your starting from €8 per person. A longer alternative with a icon of the Black Madonna. The price of this tour starts
as one of the largest medieval squares in Europe, and comes Pocket as well as detailed information about Auschwitz, wider programme is Kraków Coach Tour, taking 3 hours from €49. We offer also a wide range of other tours such
suitably stuffed with sites, stories and curiosities. Through Nowa Huta, Wieliczka Salt Mines and Zakopane. Guides can for €32-34 when you will visit all the major attractions of as Warsaw Excursion tour, Wooden Churches of
the centuries it was in the square that homages to the king be picked up by asking your concierge. Kraków, such as St Mary’s Church, the Cloth Hall, Royal southern Poland tour, John Paul II tour, Into the Gypsy
were sworn and public executions held. Most famously it was Residence and Wawel Cathedral as well as Kazimierz, World tour, Jewish Galicia tour, Zakopane & Tatra tour,
here that Tadeusz Kościuszko roused the locals to revolt the former Jewish district. For those interested in Jewish and tours of the Tatra Mountains (Romantic Mountains
against foreign rule in 1794. Taking centre stage in the Rynek culture there is The Traces of Jewish Culture tour which tour) and Dunajec River Gorge (Dunajec River Raft Trip).
is the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice). Built in the 14th century this includes Kazimierz, Płaszów, the former Nazi Concentration Prices are available on request for all of these tours.
huge hall was effectively the first shopping mall in the world Camp, and also the places Steven Spielberg used during
- to this day it is still crammed with hawkers and stalls selling filming for “Schindler’s List”. The price starts from €22. Kraków is included in our all-inclusive escorted tours
amber, lace, woodwork and assorted tourist tat. Destroyed We offer also themed tours: Legendary Kraków, a such as the 7-day Poland in One Go tour, the 12-day
by fire in the 16th century it was rebuilt in 1555 using the programme designed especially for children (prices from Grand Tour of Poland or the Jewish Heritage Tour.
renaissance signature of Italian architect Giovanni il Mosca. €8), and Crazy Communism Tour, a trip that focuses on Also note that we offer 3 Central European Tours, namely
Alterations have continued ever since, including the addition the traces of Communist heritage in Kraków (prices on Western Miracles, Eastern Miracles and Magic Triangle.
of neo-Gothic arcades in the 19th century. request).
If you have any individual enquiries or specific interests
Soaring into the sky is the majestic St Mary’s Basilica. It There are also several interesting places in the surrounding concerning your visit please ask our staff which is
doesn’t matter how many times you see it, the altarpiece, region. Firstly there is Wieliczka with its incredible, ancient experienced in creating customised travel arrangements
stained glass windows of the nave, and blue, starred ceiling salt mine and a UNESCO Heritage Site with tours starting in Kraków and other Polish cities.
of this cathedral will take your breath away. The magnificent from €32. Many visitors are interested in Auschwitz and Contact us at iyp@staypoland.com.
altarpiece was for 12 painstaking years the principal work

Instant Kraków August - September 2008