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4-Bar Kit Instructions.

Please read completely before attempting this job. Occasionally there will be a photo taken of a step, noted by (pictured). Simply notice the # of the step and check your provided disc of instructions for the file name corresponding with the step. Pieces of the kit will tagged be with letters, for example: Take the front cross member tube ends (C) and trim to fit snug... In your instruction disc is a folder named Kit Breakdown This will have all the parts and pictures to explain which parts are which if further clarification is needed. 1. Remove rear suspension, gas tank, exhaust, plumbing, wiring, and trunk contents as needed. Level frame with an angle finder to base component specs during the installation 2. Remove existing e-brake cable brackets on frame rails (pictured) 3. Clean and prep frame rails for installing front cross-member as needed for welding. 4. Take the front cross member tube ends (C) and trim to fit snug between frame rails directly behind the body mount nearest the e-brake cable bracket you just removed. (pictured) a. Brackets should butt up to the body mount and be ~1/8" below floorboard (pictured), if you want the lowest ride height setting. The lower 4-bar tube bar hole pattern centerline needs to be 90 degrees to the main frame rail section. Use an angle finder off the lower front leading edge of this 4-bar bracket to obtain this spec. The front cross member (C) can be moved lower to raise the overall ride height in the rear of the car. b. Be sure to take equal amounts off each end to keep it centered c. Measure the cross member (C) from one of the flat edges to the rear of the frame for squareness, do not trust the body mounts to be square. Custom note: You can locate the entire cross member (C) further back for a taller tire. Any tire over 28" tall may require to do so for adequate clearance, 1/4-3/4" at times. d. Tack the cross member (C) into place, do not final weld at this time 5. Install front cross member gusset tubes (D) after final check of the wheelbase location and that the cross member is square. (pictured) a. Place them where you can reach the top with your welder as much as possible, but not too low that mufflers would hit. Only tack weld at this time. 6. Side mount kit (G) only: Install upper frame support tube (I) by measuring 47 from the back of the rear channel to establish the centerline. The tube can be trimmed to fit between the rails, or use a 1 hole saw to fit inside the rails. Shock cross kit: Measure 29" from the back of the rear channel to establish the back tips of the mount. This is a rough measurement and will need to be adjusted accordingly depending on where you put the front cross member. Also note, on a 2 piece frame, youll need to trim the outboard leg of the mount to compensate for the step in the frame. 7. Mock up your rear end with the supplied parts (J)(O). Note: there are long and short tubes,

long tubes go on the bottom, shorter tubes on the top. Multiple holes are supplied for customization purposes, but for mock up, use the 2nd from the top & the very bottom hole in (C). The rod ends should be preadjusted with about 4 threads showing, but double check once installed. To adjust (J) simply back off the jam nuts and spin the bar by hand. The pinion angle can be changed by doing this once your final ride height is established. 8. With the rear end adjusted with the desired wheelbase and approximate pinion angle, adjust the level of the housing in the chassis where the lower 4 bars (J) are parallel to the frame (picture 8.1). Bolt up the shocks to the housing with supplied hardware (M)(picture 8.2) a. Side mount kit only: bolt up the upper shock hole to part (G) on each side. They should be pre-assembled for ease of use, but if not, check supplied picture. The passengers side shock will contact the floor board before its able to be put into place. The trunk needs to be notched for upper coil over clearance with the provided patch panel. Place the panel in the appropriate position on your trunk floor and trace around it. Cut inside this tracing for now. Set the panel aside for now, to be welded last. The shock should now fit properly on both sides. b. Shock cross kit only: The upper shock cross member sets atop the frame (picture 8b.1), and will require a supplied kick-up panel. (Picture 8b.2 shown with mini-tubs, not required) 9. Side mount kit only: Photo is for rough measurements. Mark these measurements on the frame rails and tack the bracket mounting plate to the frame when youre sure the shocks (A) with the coil springs (B) will clear the housing tubes. The nylock nuts dont need to be run into the nylon to save them for mockup (nylocks are two use only). Also, if provided, the 3/8"- 24 nuts can be used. The top of the bracket may extend above the top of the frame, this is normal. The brackets need to be aligned with the shocks by mocking everything up as accurately as possible before final welding. 10. Cut the Boomerang (E) roughly in half, and hold against the front cross member (C). Your goal is to connect the bottom front face of the cross member (C) to the frame as shown. This is a strictly trim to fit job, as every frame is different. This is why the tube we supply is so much longer than required. Measure twice, cut once as they say. (Picture 10.1 & 10.2) 11. The diagonal link, or track locator bar (Picture 11.1) runs drivers side front to passengers side rear, both using the lower bolt (Picture 11.2) and supplied hardware (L) that should be preassembled for simplicity. The link (P) can be adjusted the same way as the 4 bar tubes. 12. The QA-1 coil over shocks (A) have 12 settings with the thumb screws located at the bottom. For final assembly, be sure to lube the threads on the shocks generously with anti-seize compound or good bearing grease. You can adjust the ride height easier with these installed, and even more so if the car is on jack stands. 13. Now would be a good time to adjust your pinion angle, to roughly parallel with the frame at ride height. 14. When satisfied with the fit of all components, remove any rubber left on the car (the shocks and body mounts specifically) and finish welding. The rear end housing is available with all the brackets professionally welded in the correct position, including pinion angle. The completed housing can be supplied bare, or powder coated to match your frame, with a third member, air vent, drain plug, fill cap, brakes installed, brake lines installed, and many more options. Check out our website @ www.williamsclassicchassis.com for more information on this and anything else you could need for your tri-five chassis.

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