muir heritAge LAnd trust

Fernandez Ranch Adventure

By Sherida Bush
In the early morning, the land lies under an umbrella of coastal fog. Gray sky outlines the deep green of oak-laden hills, and the damp coolness brings out the aroma of grass, water and earth. The setting evokes the past and future, marking a place beyond the ordinary. The land has not changed much since Bernardo Fernandez purchased it in the early 1860s. It still provides a taste of 19th century life and raw landscapes. Fernandez left his native Portugal at the age of 13 in 1843, sailed the world and finally landed in what is now Pinole to begin a new life. Although he was primarily a shipping merchant, he also raised cattle on his huge ranch. Fernandez descendants wanted to preserve the land as a natural legacy from Bernardo. The Muir Heritage Land Trust tect Fernandez Ranch, and the Land Trust completed the purchase of the property in July. This success brings something invaluable: a walk on Fernandez Ranch today is not only an excursion into the past, it is also a glimpse into the lands secure future. Now begins the Fernandez Ranch Adventurean ambitious set of plans to bring this intriguing land to you and realize its potential as premier habitat. This entails much more than unlocking the barbed-wire gate. It involves restoration, providing public access, tapping volunteers and much more. It will be an adventure in every sense of the word, said Land Trust Executive Director, Tina Batt. Its an exciting project but will also require a lot of planning and hard work. The Adventure begins at a wide, flat meadow that abruptly gives way to the deeply banked crevasse of Rodeo Creek. This stream is fed in part by springs on the propertys hills. Water appears and disappears on this land, burbling up in springs to feed the creeks, and vanishing as seasons change. While Rodeo Creek in winter flows with sometimes-violent authority, in summer much of it is dry. To escape the heat and the lack of water, creek-dwelling frogs find daytime refuge in small mammal burrows or other cool hideaways. A walk along Rodeo Creeka riparian corridor reveals dense stands of trees on the banks of loose, sandy soil. Oaks, California bay, willow, buckeye and elderberry are among them. Bay trees can live two hundred years or more, and some of these same trees may have set down roots here long before Bernardo
Stephen JoSeph

u t u m n

2005

Inside
Executive Directors Report Fresh Aire Affaire Revisited Access Adventure Dr. Mary Leolin Bowerman Remembered Stewardship Update New Website Fall Hiking Schedule Become a Volunteer Planned Giving Annual Meeting

But in every walk with Nature one receives far more than he seeks.
John
muir

Fernandez Ranch Hillock was eager to protect the remaining 702 acres of the spectacular open space, and embarked on the largest fundraising effort it had ever attempted. From that beginning, many forces joined to pro-

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I n P raise of Par tner ship

Executive Directors Report
The following remarks were made at the annual Fresh Aire Affaire on August 20, 2005
Many of you are aware of the fact that we raised the money for the Fernandez Ranch acquisition in less than a year with help from everyone here tonight. We havent yet reached our full budget amount of $4,500,000 because we have yet to raise the $500,000 endowment to pay for future management of the property. In the meantime, were planning and fundraising for the creek restoration, trail and public access improvements including construction of a bridge to cross the creek and a staging area. The Fernandez Ranch has doubled our land holdings and more than doubled our land management responsibilities. How will we meet this challenge? Partnerships. We could not survive without our partnerships. Our corporate, media, and union sponsors help support events like the Fresh Aire Affaire. Private donors and foundations support the Land Trust so we can undertake acquisitions and restoration projects like the Fernandez Ranch. Student and Community volunteers are valuable partners because they donate their time to help with land stewardship activities. Developers partner with us when they help to fund part of an acquisition or creek restoration as mitigation for their development. Our public agency partners help fund the capital costs of the acquisitions and creek restoration. Our Elected officials make sure theres state and federal money for the public agencies to give to projects like the Fernandez Ranch. The only partner missing in this big picture of cooperative land conservation and stewardship is the general public. Unless we get the majority of the countys residents to support our work, we will not survive the population and development pressures of the next few years. People like Ed Downer, President of Mechanics Bank understand that. Thats why he and Chris Truebridge of Shapell Industries, Hermann Welm, Ron Brown of Save Mount Diablo, Bob Doyle and Ted Radke of East Bay Regional Park District, and many others spent four years on the Contra Costa County Open Space Measure that would have cost the average resident $25/year to buy, restore and steward most of the critical lands left in this County. In case you didnt know, the State Appeals Court upheld the lower courts decision and affirmed that the Benefit Assessment mechanism is appropriate for open space acquisitions and that there is a direct benefit to property owners. Ed Downer was willing to go before the Board of Supervisors and tell them why he as a businessman supported a funding measure that would help to preserve the foundation for our quality of life here in Contra Costa County-the land that surrounds and supports our communities and homes-the familiar landscapes, the neighborhood parks, open spaces and creeks, the environmental education and land stewardship programs that engage our children and community volunteers. Last year, we suffered a narrow defeat, but with the close of the Fernandez acquisition, and ongoing projects, we should declare a victory and move on to greater land conservation challenges. Thank you all very much.

MHLT Executive Director

STEPHEN JOSEPH

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Fernandez Ranch Adventure

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m u i r h e r i tAg e L A n d t ru s t
P.O. Box 2452 Martinez, CA 94553 925-228-5460 925-372-5460 fax info@muirheritagelandtrust.org www.muirheritagelandtrust.org

Staff
Tina Batt Executive Director Linus Eukel Development & Communications Director Mary Alice Stadum Executive Associate Beth Pardieck Stewardship Associate

Board of Directors
Mark Wilson Chair Ken Fischer Vice Chair Sheila Grilli Secretary Louis E. Stoddard Treasurer Dick Awenius Peter Colby Steve Pardieck June Rogers Marj Ross Donn Walklet Bill Weiner

Emeritus Board Members

Mary Ann Gaebe Hulet Hornbeck Hal Olson Nancy Schaefer Jack Telfer Everett Turner

Honorary Board Member

Jim Cutler

Editor
Linus Eukel

Newsletter Contributors
Tina Batt Sherida Bush Beth Pardieck

Fernandez did. The size of the resident elderberry trees suggests that they, too, are extremely old. The shady stream banks display a variety of native ferns, such as maidenhair and wood ferns. Restoration of a portion of Rodeo Creek is a vital step in the Adventure. This waterway has carved banks in the sandy soil that tower up to 40 feet in some areas. Seasonal fast-flowing water continues to erode the unstable creek corridor, and study is needed to identify the causes of the dramatic erosion. The Coastal Conservancy and other sources contributed funds to help re-establish stream stability, restore native plants in the riparian area, and enhance and protect the habitat. Restoration of the Rodeo Creek corridor also includes removing debris, such as illegally dumped trash, rusted vehicles and appliances. Once the debris is removed, immediate fencing is needed to deter future dumping. The debris is more than unsightly, it is probably contributing to the creek erosion. The removal may be a project for the East Bay Conservation Corps (EBCC), whose executives recently visited the debris site. EBCC Field Program Manager Cesar Avila and Senior Program Manager Audrey Russano determined that removing the refuse from the difficult terrain would be a great educational project for their crewmembers. EBCC is a nonprofit youth development organization, and crewmembers are working toward a high school diploma or GED. The Rodeo Creek work offers unique opportunities for the student workers to learn about the history of the area, geomorphology (creek behavior), plant identification, invasive species, grazing, and creek restoration. The Land Trust has relied on the organizations expertise for past restoration projects. While sensitive species most likely live in the Rodeo Creek corridor now, improved habitat will allow a greater chance for them to thrive and expand their range. Threatened species, such as the California red-legged frog (Rana aurora draytonii), the Alameda whipsnake

and the western pond turtle, could be among them. The red-legged frog has a unique place in California history. It is not only famous, it was a popular food for pioneers and settlers. This once-abundant animal is the title character of Mark Twains 1865 story, The Celebrated Jumping Frog of Calaveras County, but its populations have been decimated since Twains day. Rodeo Creek is a key to the Adventure in another way. The steep banks of this stream are also a barrier to public access and to safety vehicles, such as fire trucks. The Fernandez Ranch Adventure public access plan includes a bridge across the creek, an essential element for opening the area to public use. To accommodate visitors, a small staging area, parking and restrooms are also planned. Trails are a large part of the Adventures public access plan. Other than wildlife and cattle pathways, no trails exist to explore the meadows, hills and ravines. Two trail projects are proposed a trail connecting with the 500-mile Bay Area Ridge Trail and a loop trail within the propertys boundaries. Much work goes into planning, permitting and environmental review before creation of a new trail, and a welcome partner in the project is the Bay Area Ridge Trail Council. The trails will bring discovery, such as experiencing a typical summer day on the ranch. The sun emerges from the morning clouds and drenches the oak-covered hills in golden light, leaving the cooler valleys in shadow. The chirp of cricketsprobably tree cricketsadds a cheerful daytime sound. Approaching a tree-lined ravine, you may spook a red-tailed hawk from a perch 20 feet ahead, its wingspan seeming massive as it takes off with a clatter. Many species of raptors call the ranch home, though for more than a century few humans have been around to see them. Special-status raptors have been seen on nearby properties, and the plentiful trees and varied chaparral on Fernandez Ranch comprise good habitat for them. Among the raptors to look forall California species of special concern are the golden eagle, Coopers hawk,
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Fernandez Ranch Adventure

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ferruginous hawk, northern harrier and white-tailed kite. Climbing toward the hills, you will find the chaparral and scrub areas where the Diablo sunflower grows. This native plant stands out in more ways than one. It is the only known special-status species of vegetation on the property, and its large, bright yellow flowers are easy to spot among surrounding shrubs. As the slopes grow steeper, you will find thick woodlands forming a canopy of mostly coast live oaks. Meadows on the property are grasslands dominated by non-native grasses and invasive plants. Nevertheless, stalwart beauty often prevails. One of the vast meadows in summer is covered with white daisylike flowers waving above the brown-gold grasses. The flower is the Hayfield tarweed, a fragrant native plant much lovelier than its name implies. Nearby, a wooden corral of indeterminate age slowly disintegrates as lizards lounge on its fallen boards. One little western fence lizard has lost its tail to a would-be predator. A glance at the ground may catch amazing creatures of the miniature kind, such as a red-haired velvet ant. This insectactually a waspis covered with a golden, red or orange coat of hairs, giving it a velvety, fur-covered appearance (dont touchfemales dont fly but can give a painful sting). The unusual creature commands attention as it rambles over dirt and grasses. If a sharp sticker penetrates thin socks, it is painfully obvious the meadows are blanketed with the pervasive yellow starthistle. This pesky, invasive plant and other non-natives will require control and removal where possible. The Fernandez Ranch Adventure management plan addresses controlling such non-native species, as well as grazing management, maintenance of multi-use public access, and ongoing monitoring of special-status species, restored areas, and sensitive habitat. Management goals also include suggestions for future habitat restoration and improvement projects. One such project may entail restoring the stock (cattle) ponds to enhance the habitat for special-status aquatic plants and animals.
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Aquatic critters such as frogs and turtles arent the only living things that need water. Water and watersheds are the lifeblood of healthy wildlife, vegetation and people. Community volunteers will be an integral part of the Fernandez Ranch Adventure by helping with the Rodeo Creek watershed plan. Volunteers will scour creeks and surrounding areas collecting the data needed to develop a watershed plan. The plan will serve as a longterm guide for protecting and improving water quality, said Land Trust Stewardship Associate Beth Pardieck. Fernandez Ranch has a lot of acres to oversee. In fact, the purchase of the ranch has more than doubled the amount of property the Land Trust actively manages. An essential part of the Fernandez Ranch Adventure is securing the funds needed for long-term management and improvement goals. The Adventures stewardship endowment will ensure this resourcerich open space is forever the best it can be for people, plant communities, and wildlife. The Fernandez Ranch Adventure restoration, education, public access, management, watershed study and stewardship endowmentis estimated to require about $2.6 million.Various agencies and foundations have committed approximately $441,000 of the needed funds. More than $2 million still needs to be raised. Augusts Fresh Aire Affaire honored guest speaker Edward Downer III, the grandson of one of Pinoles founders, Edward M. Downer. The Fernandez and Downer families were both integral to establishing West Contra Costa County. At the Affaire, Mr. Downer III spoke from experience when he said, Great things accomplished on a local level have a way of expanding and creating a strong sense of community spirit that gains momentum over time. The Fernandez Ranch Adventure depends on community spirit and momentum to do even greater things. The heart of the Adventure is to bring you to this land as a visitor, participant, partnerand for you to know a place that captures the senses and strengthens the richness of being alive.

Fall Hiking Schedule

Join us and explore your local wilderness.
Fernandez Ranch Hikes led by Tina Batt September 24 October 29 November 19 pacheco Marsh and Waterbird Regional preserve Hike led by Nancy Wenninger November 5 Please call the office to reserve your spot now 925-228-5460. For further information:
www.muirheritagelandtrust.org

W I L L I A M F L A x I N G TO N

TO M G R E E R

The author thanks botanist Christopher Thayer of Sycamore Associates for lending his expertise and Contra Costa Times columnist Gary Bogue for naming the Fernandez Ranch Adventure during a recent visit to the new acquisition.

C A L I F O R N I A N AT I V E P L A N T S O C I E T y

White-tailed kites, western fence lizards and Hayfield tarweed are among the rich variety of wildlife to be found on Fernandez Ranch.

Muir Heritage Land Trust Launches New Website

ere pleased to announce the launch of our new website. Created entirely in-house, the site includes a new look and feel that represents a way to keep in contact and up to date about Land Trust news and information. The site also features helpful ideas about planned giving and sponsorship along with online giving and E-news bulletin options. Well be updating the website frequently so please visit often at: www.muirheritagelandtrust.org.

Fresh Aire Affaire Raises $80,000

Thank you to the Outreach Committee, June Rogers, Chair and all of our Fresh Aire Affaire sponsors, donors, volunteers and members for their magnificent support in raising funds and awareness for the Muir Heritage Land Trust. Our annual event was a great success because of you!
The Mechanics Bank Overaa Construction ConocoPhillips Tesoro Corporation East Bay Regional Park District National Park Service NECA-IBEW Shapell Homes Parsons Corporation Shell Oil Products US Telfer Oil Chevron Edwards & McCaslin Plumbers & Steamfitters Local Union No. 159 Union Bank of California Blanding Boyer & Rockwell, LLP Contra Costa Times Diablo Magazine East Bay Business Times Chappellet Daily Graphics Holland America, Inc. Juanita Hagberg For a complete listing of Fresh Aire Affaire sponsors, including a listing of silent auction donors and helpful business links, please visit our website.

Fresh Aire Affaire speakers, Edward M. Downer III (left), Mark Wilson, Board Chair (center), and Assemblyman Joseph Camciamilla (right).

Revelers at the Fresh Aire Affaire

M u i r H e r i tag e L a n d Tr u s t Hor izons

DENIS SHEA

S t ewa rd s hip Update

By Beth Pardieck, Stewardship Associate As the Land Trust works to purchase and preserve open space, responsible stewardship of properties we already own and manage is equally important.The goals of the MHLT Stewardship Program are to protect, restore and enhance each propertys natural ecosystem and resource values, and preserve, in perpetuity, each propertys open space values, scenic beauty and diverse habitats.
z High school students learn about habitat restoration from Steve Andrews, UC Berkeley Environmental Sciences Teaching Program Coordinator. On July, 20 students participated in construction of brush and rock piles to create habitat on Sky Ranch for birds, snakes and lizards. This field day is part of a larger habitat restoration project in which students will continue to be involved. It was organized with the help of Carla Koop of the Contra Costa Resource Conservation District. z Boy Scout Troop #165 poses in front of their newly installed bench on the Gustin Ranch. Jacob Miller designed and built a beautiful bench for his Eagle Scout project. It overlooks stunning views of the Carquinez Strait, Fernandez Ranch and, on a clear day, the Sierras. This hardworking troop also helped us with a cleanup project on Dutra Ranch. Our thanks to Jacob and all those from Troop #165!

JAMES MILLER

z The entrances to Sky Ranch and Dutra Ranch are looking good thanks to improved signs, a kiosk and the help of some great Stewardship volunteers. Linda and Wes Rippee built and installed frames for our existing entrance signs, which make them look like new. Bob Aston refurbished and improved the original Sky Ranch kiosk to better display our maps and brochures. Its a nice improvement. Thanks very much to Linda, Wes and Bob! z Sky Ranch will soon have a new trail thanks to Stewardship Volunteer Joe Stadum. Joe is organizing the East Bay Trail Dogs, a local Girl Scout Troop and several other volunteers to design and build a new loop trail that winds through several different habitats and unexplored parts of Sky Ranch. To help with this trail project, please call Beth Pardieck, 925-228-5460. z Now that we have closed escrow on Fernandez Ranch, the task of stewardship begins. This property is not yet open for public access because we have fencing, cleanup and restoration work to complete in order to make the area safe. In the meantime, the Land Trust will be offering docent led hikes for those who are interested in exploring. Please join us on October 29th or November 19th to see this beautiful property. For information and sign-up please call the office at 925-228-5460.

M u i r H e r i tag e L a n d Tr u s t H o r i zo n s

C A R L A KO O P

Access Adventure

he Muir Heritage Land Trust and John Muirs great grandson Michael Muir have teamed-up to provide overland wilderness access to people with disabilities. Access Adventure participants have the unique opportunity to enjoy stunning views of scenic natural areas while traveling on wheelchair accessible, horse drawn carriages. Our first event on Dutra Ranch was a wonderful success. To participate, volunteer or learn more about Access Adventure please contact the office or visit our website at: www.muirheritagelandtrust.org Michael Muir (above) Carriage drive on Dutra Ranch (right).

PAU L G A R B E R

In Memory: Dr. Mary Leolin Bowerman

P ROV I D E D B y B O B D Oy L E A N D S AV E M T. D I A B L O

r. Mary Leolin Bowerman (Born 1/25/1908 Toronto, Canada Died 8/21/2005 Lafayette, California). Dr. Bowerman was a resident of Pasadena as a teenager, of Berkeley and the Bay Area beginning in 1928 and of Lafayette since 1954. A botanist for seventy-five years, she received her Ph.D. from U.C. Berkeley. Her doctoral advisor was famed California botanist Willis Linn Jepson; she was his last surviving student. Beginning in 1930, her botanical research pre-dated the creation of Mt. Diablo State Park and became a basis for preservation there. She expanded her 1936 doctorate into The Flowering Plants and Ferns of Mount Diablo, California; Their Distribution and Association into Plant Communities, The Gillick Press, 1944. In 2002 the book was updated and republished by Bowerman and Barbara Ertter, Curator of Western North American Flora at the U.C. Berkeleys Jepson Herbarium. Her other area of expertise was the flora of southern British Columbia. She received many awards for her preservation efforts including a State of California Golden Bear Award, John Muir Memorial Associations John Muir Conservation Award (1980), the Chevron

Become a Volunteer
Volunteers provide a tremendous benefit to the Muir Heritage Land Trust. You can contribute to the preservation of our communitys natural heritage by lending a helping hand in one or more of the following areas: Outdoor and Stewardship Projects Indoor and Office Projects Communications and Development Projects Outreach Event Projects To learn more about how you can volunteer, call us at 925-228-5460.

Times Mirror Magazine National Conservation Award (1996), Contra Costa County Women of Achievement Hall of Fame Award (1998), Diablo Magazines Threads of Hope Volunteer Award for Lifetime Achievement (2000), and the Daughters of the American Revolutions National Conservation Medal. She was the subject of interviews, news articles, and editorials including in photographer Galen Rowells book Bay Area Wild, 1997. She was recognized in the Sept. 9, 1998 Congressional Record. Miss Bowerman was a major donor to the Audubon Canyon Ranch, California Native Plant Society, Jepson Herbarium, Muir Heritage Land Trust, Nature Conservancy, Save Mount Diablo, Sierra Club, University of California and many other environmental and botanical organizations.

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S C OT T H E I N

Save the Date

MHLT 2005 Annual Meeting
The Muir Heritage Land Trust is pleased to announce that its 2005 Annual Meeting will be held: Thursday, November 10 7:30-9:00 pm Orinda Community Center, 26 Orinda Way Speakers will include: Naturalist Gary Bogue, Horseman Michael Muir, and MHLT Executive Director Tina Batt Everyone is welcome and encouraged to attend. Please call the Land Trust office at 925-228-5460, to reserve a space by November 4. For further information and directions visit us online at: www.muirheritagelandtrust.org.

Planned Giving
With your support, the Muir Heritage Land Trust has been fulfilling its promise to preserve our communitys natural heritage since 1988. One important way you can continue to help provide a solid foundation for our sustained conservation efforts is through the donation of a planned gift. Giving to the Muir Heritage Land Trust in any way has an enormously positive impact on the life of our community. As the Muir Heritage Land Trust continues to reach out to the future we hope you will consider the benfits of planned giving. Contact our Development Director, Linus Eukel at: 925-228-5460 for more information.

We look forward to seeing you there.

ADDRESS SERVICE REQUESTED

P.O. Box 2452, Martinez CA 94553
Nonprofit Org U.S. Postage PAID Martinez, CA Permit No. 189