Bass Fishing Wexford - On The Lure

Bass Fishing Wexford - On the lure
from www.probassfisher.com
To Bass fishers everywhere
Contents
Saltwater Lure Fishing P10 of 21 - Catch & Release Salt Water Lure Fishing - Part 1 of 21 - Surface Lure Fishing I Salt Water Lure Fishing - P2 of 21 - Retrieves for early spring and... Salt Water Lure Fishing - P3 of 21 - Fishing Ultralight Lures Saltwater Lure Fishing Fundamentals for beginners Salt Water Lure Fishing - P4 of 21 Surface lure fishing II Salt Water Lure Fishing - P5 of 21 - Micro lures for sea trout Saltwater Lure Fishing - P6 of 21 - Surface lure fishing III Saltwater Lure Fishing - P9 of 21 - Surface lure fishing IV Saltwater Lure Fishing - P8 of 21 - Timings Saltwater Lure Fishing Fundamentals for beginners Saltwater Lure Fishing Fundamentals for beginners Saltwater Lure fishing Tips - Part 12 of 21 - splash, bubble and PO... the best Saltwater Lure Fishing - Part 13 of 21 My Spring setup Rigging Soft Baits for Bass Saltwater lure fishing - Part 14.1 of 21 - Rigging Softies Saltwater lure fishing - Part 14.2 of 21 - Rigging Softies - Wacky ... Imafraidnot ! Saltwater Lure Fishing - Part 14.3 of 21 - Rigging softies Weight... NEVER judge a book by its cover Saltwater Fly and Lure - choices and decisions for bass fishing 5 7 8 9 10 13 14 15 16 17 19 22 25 26 26 27 28 28 29 29 30 31
A perspective - the 'value' of locations im a frayed knot........ An early birthday present
32 33 33
Saltwater Lure Fishing P10 of 21 - Catch & Release

Tuesday, January 01, 2008
Catch and Respect There is skill in a proper release. Please limit your kill rather than killing your limit. Catching a fish is a skilful process, releasing one successfully back to the sea alive and healthy also requires skill and good techniques. Before you start fishing look closely at the area where you are angling and search for lies that you suspect a fish may run to for cover and use to his advantage for escape or possible hang up. Plan regularly as you move and consider how you will play land and return your fish under the circumstances you are in. Check for your safety and a path to bring the fish through. Some helpful tips for successful catch and release Handle the fish as little as possible and try to keep the fish in the water when removing hooks. Avoid lifting or touching the fish if you can. If you do need to touch the fish make sure your hands are wet. If you do need to lift the fish make sure he is supported evenly. Avoid lifting the fish out of the water unsupported. If you are using lures and are nervous of hooks consider using a boga grip. It is often not necessary to use a boga grip when fishing single or barbless hooks, cut down or eliminate its use as you grow in confidence. Have a plan for releasing a fish before landing it Because time is crucial in keeping a released fish alive, work quickly and eliminate any over exposure to air. Avoid using landing nets. Do not drag fish over dry sand which clings to its slime.
Handling the fish with wet hands helps to avoid removing the beneficial fish slime. Remove treble hooks carefully and quickly using pliers and try to avoid lip or flesh ripping, also avoid any contact to the red gill plate area. When taking photographs make it very quick and always plan ahead. Revive an exhausted fish in the water by pointing the fish into any available current until the fish recovers. Try not to recover the fish where water is muddy or sandy. Points to Consider
Cut down on the number of hooks on your lures De-barb your treble hooks De-barb your single hooks Try to land fish as quickly as possible to avoid over stressing them Overplayed and overexposed fish die after release A quickly landed bass will still have a lot of energy and is very inclined to shake his head from side to side a dangerous time for both fish and angler for potential damage especially with multi hooked lures Longer lures with multiple treble hooks cause greater damage to fish than shorter ones If you intend to kill and keep a fish from time to time then carry the proper tool do the job. Dont leave fish gasping and flapping on the shoreline but use a salmon priest to dispatch him quickly. If keeping a fish consider keeping one that has spawned a number of times > 45 cms. Try not to kill the fish that everyone wants to catch i.e. return bigger fish.
A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Salt Water Lure Fishing - Part 1 of 21 - Surface Lure Fishing I

Monday, March 31, 2008
Of all the types of fishing an angler can experience in Ireland surface lure or topwater lure fishing is without a doubt one of the most exciting, enjoyable, addictive and may I say simple techniques for catching predatory fish and especially bass. It is certain that if you are seeking the ultimate bass fishing experience, then surface lure (or fly)fishing is the way to go - the awesome visual action of fish strikes and attacks that happen very regularly are unforgettable. The added visual appeal and response that comes with surface lure fishing is very powerful in terms of angling pleasure. Its very often that the result of a missed strike when a bass swims away unhooked after that mighty attack and hit is enough to produce a satisfactory experience for the angler its an adrenaline rush and very addictive so be warned!
Using lures that float on top of the water is what makes surface fishing more of an exciting angling experience than any other style of fishing. Lures that are primarily used are specifically known as topwater or surface lures. These types of lures are quite simple looking; many are produced in realistic, baitfish type patterns with lifelike appearances and colouring to appeal to fishs sensory receptors. Most surface lures are hollow-bodied and made from hard durable plastic or wood with a standard tail treble hook, and in some cases, two other treble hooks. Debarbing and reducing the number of hooks will help your fishing and protect the fish and YOU from unnecessary damage. So what are the tactics for surface lure fishing? Any angler despite their angling experience can attempt and even master the basics of surface lure fishing quite easily. Its a little bit of work at the beginning, but its really worth the effort. The concept is simple, and basically involves being able to fish on the surface of the water. The trick though, is being able to manipulate the way ones lure acts, floats, swims and reacts on the waters surface. What you need to have is a decent ability to coordinate your rod, line retrieve, and the timing of each with specifically hand eye coordination. Surface lure fishing starts with your eyes and ends with your wrists and hands. You must watch the lure (particularly the way it reacts) as your retrieve and fish it. Secondly, using your wrists and retrieving line hand on your reel to control line pull, tug and twitch, and thus create lure action or animation. When the lure is swimming successfully on the waters surface it is this enticing element that the fish beneath the water is fully drawn to. Techniques for fishing in a surface manner can vary from popping the lure to walking it or twitching it in a lifelike manner across the surface. All the above cannot be done with out proper line tension and control Without doing this, the way the lure reacts will not appear natural or act in the correct manner for which it was designed. Thus slack line in your cast and retrieve will yield sloppy and non-realistic
fishing action. Keeping a realistic fishing action as much as possible with your surface lure presentations is crucial, especially since bass react very positively to lifelike lure movement. Next month () - retrieves for early season lure fishing. A little bit of fishing in your day Jim
Salt Water Lure Fishing - P2 of 21 - Retrieves for early spring and...

Tuesday, April 15, 2008
Since I've posted on SWFF tactics for cold spring water I would like to mention today some ideas for SWLF at this time of year. I have already mentioned 'weather windows' and this post is not specifically about watching weather patterns and then meeting with success (i'll do that later) but its more about a few ideas as to how. One thing is definite however and that is the amount of effort you will need to make at this time of year is considerably greater than the easy fishing of summer and early autumn when fish are more aggressive. At the time of writing sea water surface temperatures are roughly between 9 and 11 degrees at the moment and this is just over the effective operating temperature for bass fishing. In other words fish should be somewhat active. Again i can only speak out of experiences here at Wexford for the following water temp ranges as described to me some time back by a fisheries biologist as best as i can remember At 5 degrees its the minimum acceptable temp for their existence or range Below 8/9 degrees they seem to enter a state of suspension - slower metabolism (soft lures, suspended lures) Between 10-12 degrees you can catch them on DR diving lures and sinking fly lines Between 12-15 degrees you can catch them on surface lures and flies and most other lures Above 16 degrees oxygen starts to becomes an issue and they are not present/ or feed in cooler waters However winds have been predominantly Northerly and North easterly over the last few weeks and surface temperatures of the sea are a little down. I have a few notes from the archives that indicate my first surface bass fishing wouldnt generally begin with confidence in numbers until early May, and then its time to stop as the season is closed! Traditional methods of fishing at this time of year involve casting and retrieving - casting and retrieving with lots of different types of lures - tobies, krills, rapalas etc. But what if we were to cast and not retrieve or at least retrieve much more slowly and EFFECTIVELY - it could take us three minutes or more to retrieve our lure. So what are we doing? We are presenting the opportunity to the fish to strike the lure for much longer periods of time. Rather than casting and pulling lures at speed past slow and often sluggish fish we are giving them the opportunity to take at their operating factors and not ours. In order to achieve this we can fish with suspending jerk baits. These lures do not float or sink but rather suspend at the depth to which we fish them. We make our cast, tighten into our main line and feel the lure engage - a few deliberately slow turns of the handle
will get the lure to swim and dive - and then we stop and wait and.........wait, but maintaining contact with the lure - gently we fish it home. Adding a little speed will drive the lure deeper and as we make the stop again and again the 'active roll' of the lure when suspended is enough to entice a cold water take. Then of course theres always soft plastics...coming soon Next month (May) - fishing ultralight A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Salt Water Lure Fishing - P3 of 21 - Fishing Ultralight Lures

Friday, May 30, 2008
Fishing ultra light lure gear doesnt mean ultra weak - dispense with that other theory too big fish big lure - yes its true on occasions but big fish also eat little fish if given the opportunity. Heres another one - light/small lures restrict my fishing - take that one with a big pinch of salt too! The biggest opportunity for the saltwater lure fisherman who chooses to fish ultralight is that it creates access to many more species. Seatrout, wrasse, bass, mackerel, pollack, garfish, even mullet can all be taken on ultralight tackle by confining your fishing to larger heavier lures and gear you may be limiting your experiences and opportunities for enjoying these other species.
Ultralight lures also transfer to fresh water for perch, pike, brown trout and salmon
How many quality seatrout have you caught on saltwater lures intended for bass - some perhaps, but by scaling down and adjusting your lures and lure tackle not only can you continue to target bass but you can also put seatrout positively in the frame! And so many other species too. By opening the box of micro lures your fishing becomes instantly more creative more active and more involved. So what is ultralight? To me ultralight fishing is done with lures less than 10 grammes in weight - rods are often shorter than eight feet - reels are small in the 2500 or less style of things and braids are kept light too , less than 5kgs. My current ultralight set up is of the following Rod -Smith Bayliner boron - casting 2 - 10 grammes - length 6'-6" Reel - Shimano stradic 2500 Line - Powerpro Tippet - Varivas fluorocarbon No swivel or clips are used. With this setup its possible to cast a 6 gramme lure 50 metres and more. Light lure fishing does not restrict your fishing, with the correct setup it enhances it. Nor does a balanced and light setup mean excessive 'playing' of fish. The technology invloved in modern ultralight lure rods allow you to/or
1. cast sufficient distances with micro lures 2. work the lure properly 3. work across a range of different lure types 4. land fish quickly and efficiently 5. fish comfortably for long periods 6. provides access to many different species Next Month (June) - Choosing ultra light lures for differnt species A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater Lure Fishing Fundamentals for beginners

Sunday, October 12, 2008
Saltwater Lure Fishing Series - First published Irish Angler 2004 1. Improve your saltwater lure fishing introduction. 2. Lure and tackle choices. 3. On the big blue. Part One There is no escaping them these days. Just about every fishing shop you go to has stocks and a vast array of fishing lures. As you walk down the aisles they regard you with large holographic eyes and strange tight smiles. When you are at home turning the pages of your favourite angling magazine they jump off the page - the latest and greatest, the softest and the hardest, the fastest and the slowest, the brightest the dullest, the ones designed by scientists, oh and in case I forget the ones that catch the angler as well! How does any angler have a chance indeed how does any fish refuse such a plethora of foodlike metal jigs, plastic and colourful jelly? As a full time saltwater guide I am not afraid to admit it. My name is Jim Hendrick and I too have a large lure collection, including ones that taste like Pernod! Over the next few months or so I hope to be able to help you in many aspects of your saltwater lure fishing. We will look at your lure choices and decision making, tackle and equipment that will help you achieve the maximum enjoyment from your fishing, and discuss many angling tactics to improve your catch rate. One of the key factors in successful lure fishing is understanding your target species, where they are and what their regular feeding, breeding and moving patterns are. With this knowledge and the information you can garner from these few articles you can successfully apply competent and efficient lure fishing techniques to your fishing. There are a few things I would like to mention at this early stage regarding protection of the fish and indeed the angler when lure fishing. Most modern lures carry at least two and more often than not three treble hooks. These hooks are incredibly sharp and penetrate very easily. One lure can effectively be armed with nine hooks. When a predatory fish strikes or hits these lures its often with a lot of force. As a result of this attack hooks can become embedded in other areas of the fish other than the mouth region. This often causes unnecessary damage and death to the fish because of the following 1. Two or more barbed treble hooks are stuck in the fishs body.
10
2. There is a protracted period of hook extraction from the fish 3. There is excessive and uncertain handling of the fish out of the water. If you are considering lure fishing please also consider the following in order to nurture the saltwater sportfishing ethos. Remove all barbs from your treble hooks by flattening them with a pair of pliers. This will allow a very fast hook extraction with no pulling or ripping. Time spent extracting the hook from the fish is reduced to almost zero. Get into the habit of always carrying long nosed pliers. When you land a strong swimming species like a sea bass they will often thrash and splash around. Do not use a landing net there are too many places for hooks to get tangled and you guessed it - stuck back in the fish while you try to get the lure free. Unsuitable landing nets remove slime and often damage fish. Uncertain and nervous reaching for the fish to control him will often lead to hooks been stuck in an anglers hand as the fish shakes his head to free himself of the lure. De barbing the hooks will help you in this instance. Be confident in your control of the fish by thumbing him or by use of a boga grip. This is an invaluable tool that will allow you to quickly get the fish under control, weigh him, remove hooks etc and return him to the sea in less than 10 seconds. Always try and remove the hooks from the fish while he remains in or at least partly submerged by water. The use of the boga-grip here is invaluable. Place you light spinning rod under your armpit in a tight grip, hold the boga in the same hand as you have the rod under, reach for the fish, grip and control him and remove the hooks using your pliers with the other free hand, release the boga trigger fish drops into the water and swims away. Twelve seconds a little room for improvement I think. When you capture a fish that you consider is worth photographing a little planning often helps the fish the photographer and the angler. I find that I carry a small digital camera inside my shirt pocket all of the time when fishing. The camera is inside my chest waders and often inside my jacket, very safe. The strap of the camera is attached to a neck lanyard (like at pop concerts etc). The lanyard is always around my neck and is long enough to allow freedom of movement with the camera. I can simply pull the camera out of my shirt pocket by the lanyard, it slides out easily and I am then ready to take my photo. I can simply drop the camera back inside my waders after the shot and then return the fish. If you are fishing with a friend alert him before you land the fish that you want a photograph taken so he can be ready and in position to help. It does no harm to discuss and practice fish holding positions etc. Positioning, and remembering important factors like the angle of the sun before you go fishing will prove invaluable a photograph in the fishes natural environment always looks great. Do not labour over your photographs and time should be kept to minimum. One portrait, one landscape and one change of position should be enough. Remember too that your trophy photograph will last forever and can be shown to hundreds of people, dead fish only last a few hours. If you are fortunate enough to have found what looks like good lure fishing areas you should think carefully before telling too many people. There are a few points to bear in mind here as to why you should do this: Firstly some species are localised and very slow growing in their habitats. Bass for example take a long time to mature and are often subject to over exploitation. Always take care not to fish some special venues too often. Try to practice good catch and release policies and try to minimise unnecessary stress to fish. Bass, although they are very tough, you dont want them to endure too many
11
captures. You also dont want to over lure or spook the fish. The fewer lures they see the more likely they are to take yours. Make your own decisions about your sportfishing and exercise practical and thoughtful considerations. Travelling light is one of the key benefits of lure fishing, little more than a small rucksack, two lure boxes, a bottle of water, suntan lotion and your rod and reel what more do you need, some spares perhaps? Because you can often travel further and into places you wouldnt normally venture when angling make sure you always tell someone where you are going and at what time you expect to return. Bring a mobile phone too in a sealed waterproof bag. A slip or fall in a remote area could prove fatal so always fish safely. Be aware of the state and heights of the tides, have an accurate idea of the weather forecast and never take chances on cliffs or rocky promontories. Always try and fish with a friend if you can. So back to the lures youre walking down the angling shop aisle when you spot something that looks like a cast off from the latest Star Wars film. Its long, has flashy yellow spots over a light purple body and has two propellers back and front. You wonder does it take batteries and how hungry does a fish have to be to eat it? As it turns out, hunger is only one of the huge numbers of factors that drive a fish to attack a lure. Research into fish behaviour has been revealing other triggers that fish find hard to resist, triggers that lure designers might and often must use to blind a fish to the sharp truth about what really awaits it on the end of an anglers line. With huge amounts of money been generated in the recreational angling arena, some lure manufacturing companies rely on science and computer design, rather than a simple lets make one and see what happens approach. In their quest to develop the most alluring of lures many companies will go to the far extremes of Computer aided design, colour physcology and visual spatial analysis. Many of the industry researchers' investigations focus on fish behaviour to guide the development of lures and their behaviour in or on water. Many other companies focus on the angler and force him subliminally to purchase lures based on whats appealing to him or her. And as for trying to understand what goes on in anglers' minds when they're choosing and purchasing lures . . .. Well that discussion is probably more suited to a different type of publication! To determine what turns fish on companies develop prototype baits in a variety of sizes, shapes, materials, and colour schemes, these prototypes are often given to trusted guides to test in various fishing situations. But before looking for live reports from the field, however, the designers put each lure through an assortment of lab tests. First, they examine its motion in a tank of flowing water, a fluid-filled version of the wind tunnels that aeronautical engineers use to test aircraft and automobile components. Slow-motion video recordings taken from several angles reveal a lure's movements in three dimensions and show, for example, how much a lure wobbles, or doesnt, how it twists, stops hovers, sinks and how fast it swims back and forth, up and down Often after tank trials come tests with live fish. Sometimes the artificial baits are towed past fish in a long, straight tank. In other tests, they're hauled around in circuits for a specified period of time at different times of the day. The researchers then compile statistics on how well a lure grabs a fishs attention, or how a fish reacts to different lure travelling speeds and swimming behaviour, colour and appearance. Finally, in the most enjoyable part of the research-and-development process, for those designers and researchers interested in fishing, the baits are put to the test on lakes, 12
streams and in the sea. Its possible that amongst the best and most imitated lure manufacturers, for a lure to spend several years on the journey from conception through to final production. This factor should be one of the strongest points in assisting your decision-making regarding lure choice and purchase. Reputable companies make reputable lures. With so much information and choices decisions are difficult to make. In the next article we will discuss lure types, which ones you should use and how to use them correctly. A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Salt Water Lure Fishing - P4 of 21 Surface lure fishing II

Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Often imitated, impossible to duplicate, the Super Spook is just as deadly as the original Zara Spook introduced decades ago. Oversized eyes and the trademark walk-the-dog action make everything from bass to redfish attack with a vengeance. Fish don't simply bite a Super Spook, they attack it. HERE
Thats some of the blurb on one of the most successful lures of all time. When you consider that the lure was first created back in 1939 by the Heddon company and called the zaragossa 6500 it was made from wood. Following the development of the plastic version Heddon changed its name to the zara spook 9260. It has continued to evolve for nearly sixty years with a 4 inch three hook version released in the mid nineties - its still marketed by the Heddon brand after all this time. Available for less than 10 dollars it has proved time and again an indispensable lure for my cutomers and I. Due to its long existence its often overlooked in favour of more 'advanced' lure types and is often considered 'obsolete' or 'forgotten'. The biggest mistake you can make is to forget to add it to your collection. The lure has occupied a place in my top 10 for many years now. Its unique 'clunk clunk' sound and wide walk the dog action creates a target that many bass simply cant refuse. The lure is not the worlds greatest caster but it more than makes up for this with its own unique credentials. When water is colder and a little 'off' and fish are not responding on the surface - then reach for the spook - it can often be the one that gets you the adrenaline rush of a surface hit that you might hve missed. Remember your fishing with a lure that started life 60 years ago and has remained very
13
little changed since then. Some things dont need fixin'. A little bit of fishing in your day Jim
Salt Water Lure Fishing - P5 of 21 - Micro lures for sea trout

Wednesday, January 21, 2009
Before you begin fishing for seatrout with these lures I would ask you to consider replacing the treble hooks on these lures with single barbless hooks. A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
14
Saltwater Lure Fishing - P6 of 21 - Surface lure fishing III

Cutting up the surface clock. There is a technique used in fly fishing called fan casting. Imagine you are standing at the waters edge and rather than making your first casts straight out in front of you and then retrieving back, you make a short cast almost parallel to the shore line to your right hand side and then retrieve. Lets call this the three o clock position, you then cast again to your right to the same distance but at an earlier position on the clock face - some what before the imaginary little hand is on three. You continue in this fashion from right to left past two o clock, past one and twelve which is straight in front of you and continue across to your left, past eleven and ten to nine o clock, always at the same distance. Where there is no current running you could begin to cast again at nine and at a slightly greater distance and work your way back to three and then back again to nine, again at an increased distance - slowly working you casting from right to left and left to right further out to sea with each pass. If there is current on your location lets say flowing from right to left I find that generally fish point into the current if holding, so casting from nine back to three is often less effective. This technique allows you to cover all of your fishing ground in front without going into the water, to a range of say 30 metres. The next phase involves you stepping into the water away from the shore line for about two metres and beginning to fan cast again, right to left, wade a little, then fan cast right to left and continue until you reach a safe wading limit. If you have done this slowly and carefully a cast behind you is often worth a try. Return to shore, have a sit down and then move down the location a little and begin again. So how do I apply this to my lure fishing? Of course casting with a lure is considerably easier but that doesnt mean you should be less patient or less careful. Simply flipping your first casts to thirty metres along the shore and working out and around in the fan cast fashion works equally as well from a lure perspective. In fact you may be suprised to learn where fish lie, and covering them like this gives you the opportunity to find them without spooking them off. NEXT - Tidal timings and our presentations A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
15
Saltwater Lure Fishing - P9 of 21 - Surface lure fishing IV

What time are the fish? In the diagram to the right the anglers cast is made perpendicular to the beach. There is a current flowing from right to left and in the next three diagrams lets assume the current flow and speed remains constant. The anglers lure is represented by the small black oblong shape and the path of the lure is indicated by the large blue arrow. This is the path the lure will take with a constant normal retrieve. The important thing to remember in this situation is the diection and motion the head of the lure is taking - take a look at the red arrow. This is CAST A. In the next Diagram or CAST C all things remain the same except the speed of retrieve the angler imparts on his lure. In this instance the speed of retrieve is slowed down and the path that the lure takes is much wider. Take a look at the red arrow in this instance and the difference is clear. The head of the lure is travelling in a different and wider presentation. This is CAST C. In this last diagram again the current remains constant, but this time the angler increases the speed of his retrieve - the presentation is different as the head of the lure travels differently and the path taken is much tighter to the perpendicular. This is CAST B. Simply by varying the speed of the retrieve you can make three simple but very different presentations. Not only is your lure swimming differently but its sound will also be different. In this simple situation all things remain constant but in reality its not that simple. As tides rise and fall so the speed at which they run and flow increases and decreases, the direction in which they flow changes over many hours, the type of surface wave activity changes constantly as it interacts with local wind speed, direction, barometic pressure and even the type of ground which the water is running over. If we were to take CAST A over a normal tide rise and fall where the angler doesn't vary his retrieve but we applied local tide flow, the path of the lure would be different at different times during the tide. The following rule may help you determine maximum flow of water over any time of tide at a location during that tide. Fish activity and especially that of bass will coincide with this water flow at different intervals . In the first hour of the tide 1/12th of the total tide or water would move. In the second hour 2/12ths of the water moves.
16
In the third hour 3/12ths have moved. So after the first three hours a total of 6/12ths of the tide has moved. For the remaining half of the tide the system works in reverse during the fourth hour another 3/12th of the water moves in the fifth hour 2/12ths and in the last hour 1/12th moves. During Spring and Neap tides this volume can be greater or smaller, speeds are reduced or increased, and ranges are wider or narrower. It is interesting to note that at the end of the fourth hour 3/4s of the TOTAL tide has pushed through. How does this affect our virtual angler who hasnt changed his speed of retrieve? For the first and early second hours of the tide the lure would travel in a path resembing CAST C for the later part of the second hour and early part of the third it might look like CAST A. As the tide moved into the late third and fourth hours it would look like CAST B, and for the remainder of the tide it would begin to resort to CAST C. So not only is this tidal flow timing affecting our presentations it also affects the timing and the behaviour of the fish WE want to catch and also the behaviour of the fish THEY want to catch too! Understanding how our target species behaves in this sequence is a vital part of your success and this is based around how their prey behaves, swims, hides, feeds, moves around and generally behaves in the tidal sequences, flow and movement of water. Vary your retrieves and presentations to match that of prey rather than simply pulling lures through or across the water. In other words small fish like gobies in some locations might be active in the first two hours and the last two hours of tide - during the rush hour they seek cover from strong currents. Thats two different presentations you will need to make. NEXT - Which of the twelfths is the best for fishing? A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater Lure Fishing - P8 of 21 - Timings

Saturday, January 24, 2009
Two weeks goooood - two weeks baaaaaaad This is not a miss-quote from some talking farm animal but it is a very accurate indicator you can use for bass fishing in Ireland. In fact you dont really need to know much more than the following short list 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Spring tides fish better than neap tides The new moon often produces more fish than the full moon Good weather conditions means good bass fishing Fishing is better when the water is clear or clearing Fish early in the morning or late in the evening Fishing will deteriorate over time if the wind blows from the east
17
What this doesnt mean 1. You cant catch fish on neap tides 2. You cant catch a lot of fish when the moon is full or at any other stage 3. Bad weather produces no fish 4. You wont catch fish in dirty water 5. You cant catch fish at 15:30 on a hot bright summers day 6. All easterly breezes are bad Below is a chart of the tidal instances between the 4th and 11th of July 2009. Saturday the 4th of July to the 11th of July is currently reserved here at SEAi by a group of three Dutch flyfishers. They expect 5 days of good bass fishing with a seven night 6 day stay in Ireland. Arriving late on saturday we will begin fishing on Monday which is period 7 on the x-axis. This plan has already been discussed with the group in detail several times. In other words these customers are here at a very good time to fish for bass (point one above). During this period there is a full moon (tues 7th) (point two above). July is the middle of summer (point three above) so conditions are normally good (point four above). Clients are more than willing to experience a work free environment that allows them have wonderful encounter that often go beyond fishing. (point five above). I cant influence the weather (point six and three above). During the five days of guided fishing, plans will be made initially for the week, and then often re-made as weather and conditions dictate. Discussions and decisions are made after and during each guided session. What I like to do during a five day period like this is to introduce people to venues early in the week when we are not fishing - I walk them through locations creating 'visibility' and discussing location 'development' over tides. As the week progresses we return to these locations ready to fish - flies, lures, presentations, locations, timing of effort, safety concerns, positions have already been discussed and clients are ready and eager to fish. I try to emphasise advice afterall is only advice and people are free to take or leave it - the only time I am particularly 'tough' is when safety is an issue. Each day that I guide I am attempting to place people into safe locations where they have the maximum opportunity to catch fish! This is done in respect of weather, tidal conditions, equipment and experience. In other words I dont simply bring people fishing every day, I hope to guide them into situations where they can learn and achieve something from their angling experiences in Wexford i.e. They successfully catch and return a number of bass! I cant make them catch the fish but I can assist and demonstrate and facilitate but ultimately its down to the angler to take full advantage of the situation.
If as an angler you are continuously adding more variables into the equation that only serve to restrict your fishing and fishing times rather than enhancing them then you are learning nothing. There is one only one-way to boost your chances and thats to do it and learn the craft for yourself. Bass fishing is not about an ever-increasing number of exacting situations that prevent you from going fishing. Its not about counting fish; its not about catching the biggest fish, and I hope it never becomes competitively fished for in
18
this country. Yes there are many, many factors involved that influence the fish but on any given day, on any twenty different locations, during a spring tide in summer with reasonable conditions you can expect to catch bass! A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim

Wednesday, March 11, 2009
Saltwater Lure Fishing Series - first published Irish Angler 2004 1. Improve your saltwater lure fishing introduction. 2. Lure and tackle choices. 3. On the big blue. Part Two I am often asked the question Which lure is the best Jim? I always answer The one which you think is the best. This is not Jim trying to be smart or quipping but it is often the case that an angler will feel more confident with one type or make of lure than another. He will often feel that it is the best lure available and will go to extremes to hide it from other anglers. He sometimes catches fish on this lure but there are times when he doesnt. When he goes fishing again he fishes with the same lure, often in the same place and with the same method. He may or may not catch fish. Lets look at the range of lures available to the modern saltwater angler and why some are more popular than others. Metal spinners or jigs like the famous Kilty lure are now famous in Ireland. Other lures in this range are the ABU krill and Toby. The renowned German bait is still often indispensable and the simple but deadly Dexter wedge is a good fish catcher. This is the range and type of lure that most saltwater anglers are familiar with, spinning for sea trout, bass, pollack and mackerel with these lures is commonplace and widespread in Ireland. Anglers use medium to heavy spinning rods of various lengths and spinning reels loaded with monofilament line. The spinners are attached to the line with a simple swivel. The activity of spinning is relatively straightforward when the angler is fishing over clean ground. The spinner is simply cast out and retrieved and then re-cast. Varying the speed of retrieve allows the angler to speed up or slow down the lure and hence change its position in the water table. When fishing over rough, rocky or broken ground with a metal spinner, things often become more difficult. There is often a subconscious fear that the spinner is fishing too deep and close to the rocks and the angler may be apprehensive about loosing the spinner by getting it caught. As a result the spinner will be retrieved rather quickly and higher in the water table where fish may fail to react to it. Fish are often secure closer to the cover of rocks and weed. In order to improve your catch rate if you are fishing with a metal spinner I would recommend that you try and fish as close to the submerged rocks as possible quite frequently during your fishing session. To avoid or at least reduce possible tackle losses reduce your treble hook to a single. If you are fishing over an area that is covered by high tide then it is often possible to retrieve lost spinners at low water. My grandfather showed
19
me a trick I used as a young angler whilst fishing the Forlorn Point in Kilmore Co.Wexford. Take your spinner then attach your swivel, then attach about fifteen feet of 20-pound test monofilament to your mainline which should be about 12-14 pounds test, you can use a double blood or uni-knot. When you are fishing and then find you are stuck simply pull for a break after making valid attempts to free your spinner. The line will generally break at the knot. When the tide retreats its very easy to locate the leader of heavy line which will lead you to your spinner. I once as a boy spent an entire months summer holiday bass fishing in Kilmore with two Jensen Jigs. I lost and retrieved them several times and I fished them until their coatings disappeared. As I mentioned in part one, most angling shops have a wide stock of what I like to call Lures. These are different from the metal spoons, spinners and jigs, which we spoke about above, and they also have very different fishing methods. Some of most popular range within this modern type of lure is Rapala, Storm and Duel. There are many others like lucky craft, Smith and Jackson too. The Rapala J13, J9 and J7 are very famous bass lures. They are often called jerk baits. The jointed body allows the lure to swim with a unique action that has been imitated by several other lure manufacturers. The main features you will notice about this type of lure are 1. Its fuller profile it has a more realistic shape, colour and form than a metal jig 2. It may well have a diving vane at the front 3. It may have a rattle inside and you may feel or hear objects moving inside 4. It will feel light 5. It will be indicated on the packaging as to whether it is a floating, or sinking lure. Lets take a closer look at each point. The fuller profile of the Rapala type lure is different to your metal jigs. Its form suggests a fishy presence in the water and its colour will be completely different than a spinner. The vast amounts of colours available within a lure range should not put you off and we will discuss this later. The second thing on our list is the diving vane of clear plastic situated at the front of the lure. This vane forces the lure to dive when retrieved and it also causes eddies around the lure causing it to swim actively. The deeper the angle and the longer the vane the deeper the lure will swim, a shallow swimming lure will not have as steep an angled vane. It is important to mention that on the lure packaging the lure diving depth is often indicated. When you are examining the lure closer you will often hear objects moving about inside. These generally serve two or three purposes. Take a storm chug bug for instance, which is a floating lure and shake it. It has a very loud and distinctive rattle that can be heard very easily. This is caused by several ball bearings inside. This rattle acts as a fish attractor. The other purpose these ball bearings serve is in casting. When the lure is suspended in the cast the ball bearings drop to the bottom of the lure. This creates a weight distribution, which is far easier to cast. With more complex lures like the Aile Magnet the distribution of weight is a key factor in maintaining the balance of the lure and hence a natural appearance when it is been fished. On the packaging of the lure it is generally indicated as to whether the lure is a diving or suspending version. This is an important factor in your fishing decisions. By been able to make several different presentations with your lure at various depths you can fish very, very effectively. Take a Rapala J13 floater for instance. You cast the lure and it floats on top of the water, when you retrieve it, it swims and dives to its indicated depth usually one or two metres. When you stop retrieving it will return to the surface if its a floating version. If its a suspending version it will simply remain at rest moving slowly in the currents until you begin to retrieve it again. Deadly effective. 20
These lures will feel light in the hand when held, especially in comparison to your metal jigs. Fishing with heavy mono will not be effective for your fishing. It will restrict your ability to cast any distance and it will have adverse effects on your lures swimming action. I would suggest that you fish with a high quality monofilament of about 10-14 pounds test or if you can afford to I would strongly recommend fishing with braid. A braided line of 30 pounds test has the equivalent diameter of 8 pounds test monofilament. If you do invest in some lures and lure fishing equipment please bear in mind the following. When using braid always purchase a good quality reel that has a slow oscillating feature. This will improve line lay and helps resist burying of the braid on the spool during retrieves. Without this feature especially with less modern braids you will experience tangles that the devil himself would be proud of. Always attach a leader length of fluorocarbon or monofilament to the end of your braid. This should be about one metre in length and be of around 20 pounds test. Join the braid to the leader using the allbright or reverse allbright knot. This leader will ensure a number of things. Firstly the multiple hook points on your lure will not pierce the braid and get tangled whilst tumbling through the cast. Also sometimes whilst playing or striking a fish line can be drawn across a hook barb braid can be deteriorated by this quite quickly and show no visible signs of wear. This leader will also allow a little shock absorption (as well as your rod) as remember braid has zero stretch. So what range do you need to carry from a beginners point of view? To allow effective presentation of baits and lures across the widest range to predatory fish I would recommend the following Spinners and spoons The Kilty lure The ABU krill The ABU Toby Jerk Baits Rapala J13, J11 Floating Lucky craft flash minnow Storm thundersticks, yo zuri's or similar Surface Lures Storm chug bug Rapala skitter walk Duel Aile Magnet While colour is important I would concentrate at the beginning on buying two fishy type colours of each lure and one bright type like yellow and white or a red and white combination. You should have a compact yet comprehensive range with this selection
21
allowing you to fish effectively for all major saltwater predatory species in Ireland. In the next issue we will address effective methods and the various techniques required to fish your lures more effectively. We will concentrate on selection; colour and how to target you preferred species. A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim

Saturday, May 02, 2009
Saltwater Lure Fishing Series - First Published Irish Angler 2004 1. Improve your saltwater lure fishing introduction. 2. Lure and tackle choices. 3. On the big blue. Part three So here we are at part three already. Lets talk a little about techniques. Remember from part two that we said traditional metal spinners like the Abu Toby are simply cast and then retrieved at various speeds. This is an effective way of catching fish no doubt. With a lure you can achieve so much more. By using the correct techniques you can impart more life into a lure that a metal jig simply doesnt have. To be really effective at lure fishing you need to develop two things understanding how to locate the fish and ensuring you are using the right bait and techniques. There are times during the day that are better than others, in fact there are two times, which are generally considered to be early morning before the sun rises, and evening time, just before and after sun down. There is also a number of tidal factors to consider that may or may not correspond to this timing but from a beginners point of view I would advise you to try and determine the dates when rising tides coincide with a rising sun (not exactly of course) or, when rising tides coincide with a setting sun. These two coincidences are proven times for fish catching, the change of light creates a hunting instinct in most predators. But dont become restricted to these times only there are other hours in the day too! Regarding your search tactics for locations its up to you to put in the hard work and slog it out Im afraid. It can take some time and effort. Getting up early, travelling long distances, trying various states of the tides. Expenditure on equipment and lures can run high. Sometimes it can be frustrating but eventually you will be rewarded. After your hard work you will have determined the patterns and success is yours to enjoy. Ok so lets get to the serious stuff. This could take some time Im afraid but lets begin. The equipment jigsaw consists of three main pieces, lets start with the reel. You will more likely than not be using a fixed spool reel. The activity of lure fishing means your reel will be in constant use during your fishing sessions. This is not like bait fishing where you cast and retrieve maybe every fifteen to twenty minutes, sixteen to twenty times in a session. When you are lure fishing you could probably be casting and retrieving as much as forty to fifty times and hour or two hundred times a session. This means your reel needs to be of good quality. Its internal workings need to be tough and smooth with
22
correct bearing placement. The outer coating needs to be saltwater resistant and able to withstand the odd knock on rocks. There is also one factor worth bearing in mind especially if you choose to use braid as your mainline, which I would recommend. When you retrieve braid onto your spool the line needs to be placed in neat parallel coils, this is achieved by a slow oscillating mechanism within the reel. If you are purchasing a fixed spool reel for lure fishing look to for this or similar methods of line lay. The Shimano range is particularly suitable for this. Your choice of mainline is one of two traditional monofilament which is not too expensive or the more expensive option which is braid. Im afraid I favour the latter for a number of reasons. Despite the initial outlay, if looked after properly braid will last three or four seasons. It has a much thinner profile than monofilament and hence will cast a lot further, there is another added benefit to this thin profile, it will help in the lifelike action of your lure. Braid has no stretch so there is a unique experience in fish and lure contact. This allows you to control your lure in ways that monofilament never can. When fishing with braid I would recommend that you use a short length of clear mono of fluorocarbon of about one metre at the end of your line. This allows for a little shock absorption when striking fish and prevents wear and tear on the braid from a lure or when fishing in rocky areas. Powerpro, spiderwire, Dynacable are all good brands that work really well. When using new braid take it easy with casting at first until you break it in over one or two sessions. It is prone to wind knots at first but these will soon disappear. The last piece of the jigsaw is your rod. A much talked about, and hotly debated topic. Lets look at the fish we are aiming to catch, sea trout, bass, mackerel, pollack. Not exactly huge fish are they. Ok so each has its particular strengths but these are not the hard fighting toothy species of the tropics. So matching your rod to the species you intend to catch will enhance your sporting experience. I have spent a considerable amount of time looking for suitable lure rods that fit the species to be caught in Ireland and generally I use two very light specialised saltwater rods. They are both of the same make. The first rod is an eight footer that casts lures between 10g and 30g, the second rod is just over nine feet and casts lures between 30g and 75g. It is important to mention that these are not classed in the traditional sense of the spinning rod. These are specifically designed saltwater lure fishing rods. Rings are Fuji sic and the carbon is of a very high modulus. Each rod has a specific line strength recommendation The reaction that most people have to these rods is a how remarkably light and somewhat stiff they are, they then follow it up with the question how can you land a big fish on one of those? And herein lies a lot of information. These lure rods are constructed to do a number of things, They allow you to control and work you lure as effectively as possible They translate the movements of the lure into your hands and arms They allow you to cast a long way when required They allow you to apply power to a big fish when you need to avoid an obstruction and when you need to land the fish quickly 5. Is sensitive and balanced enough to allow you feel the power of the fish You dont need a heavy spinning rod for fishing saltwater in Ireland. Travel light and enjoy the sense of freedom rather than becoming bogged down under the weight of your equipment. Enjoy the feeling of being in touch with your quarry and the sense that your effective equipment will put you closer to the fish and your fishing. This will allow you to enjoy your surroundings and learn from what you are witnessing in a more intimate and
1. 2. 3. 4.
23
productive way. I think we couldnt finish this series without returning to the lures and some techniques. Im afraid that in a short series like this it is simply not possible to cover every tactic or technique. The choice of lures facing the angler is huge so how does he select the correct one. Understanding the feeding habits of the target species will help, for instance sea trout are known to feed on sand eels at sea and in our estuaries. They are very wary of artificials so a small light lure that resembles a sand eel closely and one that is fished n the correct manner will give you a lot of success. There is no point in targeting sea trout with large red lures that are designed for toothy critters. Sea bass on the other hand are often aggressive and voracious hunters. They will respond to a number of stimuli and the trigger points in many lures take advantage of this. Lures that splash and pop on the surface will attract bass, lures that flash and dive under cover will attract bass, and lures that bounce and crash into rocks will attract bass. Bass generally have no problems attacking large lures with big eyes that make lots of noise. If you have experienced a surface smash take by a big bass then you have experienced what makes this sport so addictive. Learn to make you lure move realistically by watching bait fish in their natural environment. They dont swim constantly in a straight line now do they? What colours of natural bait do you see watched up after the mackerel have attacked them? What kind of fish live under or close to the rocks where you are fishing, what colour are these guys, how do they behave, what does an injured fish look like in the water? What are the terns feeding on? Its a case of constant observation and a applying what you see to your fishing. Ensure you have a deep diving lure, a mid-water lure and a surface lure at all times. Animate your lure to enhance its swimming motion. Be confident in your lure choice and concentrate on what nature is telling you. Fish with a frame of mind that tells you - you will catch a fish on the next cast or the next or the next. Dont mind the guy up the beach screaming at the bass he missed its now swimming in your direction! I must warn you that, and Im sure you probably dont need to be reminded of this that lures are an obsession. I have a few lures here at my house might I say, when I say a few I mean a large number. The fact is I only ever fish with about six or seven. The few that I fish with are firm favourites. They have all caught me a lot of fish, and they all have hundreds of fishing hours on them. On the odd occasion that I might loose one of them its a tragedy. There follows a little ceremony and a period of mourning whilst I decide how and with what I will replace my lost friend! Sad I know, but it will happen to you too! SEAi does provide counselling services for loss of loved lures!! A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
24
Saltwater Lure fishing Tips - Part 12 of 21 splash, bubble and PO...

Sunday, June 21, 2009
Theres more to poppers than you might think! Certainly casting a popper and working it back in the much described 'erratic fashion' does work, but do you find yourself wondering why some days are better than others?
Traditional technique - simpy cast you popper and let it land. Tighten down to your lure by winding a little line and when you see your lure moving a little then simply move your rod tip in a sharp pull - provided you are using braid and a reasonably stiffish rod you lure will generate a 'bow wave'. This bow wave is related to the type of movement you make with your rod arm and the size and shape of the concave face of your lure. Shorter snappier movements make different waves than longer strokes. Experiment with movements and lure shapes. Often an exaggerated or uncontrolled motion will see you lure turning end over end and fouling upon the mainline, with braid minimal movements create the most effective fishing. Stop and go - Combining these movements above with periods of stopping the lure give the fish the opportunity to locate the source of all this disturbance. Constant popping with constant retriving whilst on occassion does produce fish will also cause you to miss many opportunities. Adding a stop creates a longer retrieve time and hence your lure is fishing for a longer period - time for fish to find it! Add stops for as long as twenty seconds if you can stand the suspense! Bubble stream generation - Creating a bubble stream can often produce results where popping wont. A buuble stream is simply a long pull of the lure through the water causing a 'whoooshh' followed by a stop often just subsuface. Bass locate the lures through their well tuned senses and this technique creates both longer and different sounds coupled to a visual stream of bubbles. Can you 'walk' a popper? - If you own the new generation of poppers then not only can you perform all of the above but you can also combine it with the 'walk the dog' technique. Some poppers are more difficult to walk than others, some are downright impossible but when you can achieve the combination of walk and pop its
25
often unbeatable. Not all poppers are created equal - The concave face of your popper is unique to the particular model. The angle that this face is presented at is also different across ranges of lures. Owning one popper doesnt mean 'you have a popper and dont need any more'. Sounds, shapes, splash types, even static presentations all make differences to your fishing on the day. A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
the best
Thursday, January 14, 2010
A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater Lure Fishing - Part 13 of 21 My Spring setup

Friday, April 16, 2010
Since my posting about my basic set up for bass fly fishing in Wexford -What do I bring and what do I fish with? I have had lots of questions regarding my Lure fishing set up. So in answer to your queries the following is a list of my basic personal Lure Fishing Bass Setup - Please click on the links for more details and diagrams/animations/help If all of this is new to you why not consider attending a dedicated Lure Fishing Workshop The Basics The Reel Shimano Twin Power 3500 The Rods From SMITH BS-90RS 9' 650mm 820lb 1040g 245g 2 pieces - 141cm BS-86SPL 8'6" 500mm 616lb 415g 173g 2 pieces - 134cm The Line Power pro 9kgs and 5kgs with Rio Fluoroflex tippet The Detail I have pre-loaded 20 lbs BS Dacron fly fishing backing on both spools of the Shimano as I only carry 135 metres of braid (both spools loaded with different BS) Bimini twist on the line end of the backing with a doubled over closing knot to provide double loops Mainline powerpro braid tied to the backing using an Allbright knot to the double loops of the bimini 14lbs Fluoroflex is tied at the end of the mainline braid using a Reverse Allbright Knot The leader BS and mainline BS depends on the rod / lure/ presentation I am making to 26
the fish I will place a rapala knot at the end of a one meter (varies) leader of Fluoroflex to attach to my lure My go-to hard lure on a typical Spring day (depending on water clarity) would be a Lucky Craft pointer 78SP - view in full screen mode for best effect I will fish with the BS-86 at this time of year (spring) with small soft lures and smaller subsurface or surface lures and change up to the BS-90 only when necessary
The Gear One small Fishpond waist Pack containing ALL of the following Two small lure boxes one containing surface lures the other containing sub surface lures One small lure box containing soft lures and various jig heads One Fishpond nippers One Stream works forceps Spare tippet material One spare spool loaded with alternate braided line One pair of Polartec Sunglasses Tan or yellow - NEVER leave without them Small tube of sun factor One waterproof camera Under / Wader Wear all the following are breathable Hellyhansen base layer - warm for this time of year Patagonia insulator pants (maybe) and Redington Fleece Vision Extreme Waders and Jacket Vision felt/stud boots A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Rigging Soft Baits for Bass

Monday, May 17, 2010
Later today and during the week - how to get the best from your soft baits for bass. Rigging Jig Heads Weedless Tactics and techniques - A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
27
Saltwater lure fishing - Part 14.1 of 21 - Rigging Softies

Tuesday, May 18, 2010
Tools for rigging soft baits Senko worm or wave worm Split rings Nail weights Worm Hooks Jig Heads AR Rigs Acoustic barrels A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater lure fishing - Part 14.2 of 21 - Rigging Softies - Wacky ...

Thursday, May 20, 2010
The Wacky Worm Rig Senko worm Nail weights (optional) Gamakatsu circle Alternative rig Place a split ring over worm (smaller diameter) Move to mid point of worm Place hook under split ring
28
Imafraidnot !
Thursday, May 20, 2010
I cannot recommend this knot highly enough HERE A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater Lure Fishing - Part 14.3 of 21 - Rigging softies - Weight...

Friday, May 21, 2010
29
NEVER judge a book by its cover

Sunday, June 20, 2010
30
1. Older lures in your box dont just stop catching fish 2. Newer lures dont catch more fish 3. Loss of a lure 'finish' doesnt affect a lures catch rate 4. Loss of a lure 'finish' may in fact, enhance a lures catch rate 5. Expensive lures are not neccessarily better than cheaper lures 6. Price is not indicative of effectiveness 7. Do not confuse 'lifelike' with 'realistic' 8. Trigger points exist 9. 'If it ain't chartreuse it ain't no use'.......what colour is the sun? 10. YOU are the lure A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
Saltwater Fly and Lure - choices and decisions for bass fishing
Thursday, July 28, 2011
Bass go about their business on a day by day basis and during the time they spend close to our shores their search for food is of prime importance to their survival. They store this bounty that they catch and eat as a lipid reserve to help them survive over winter in less than ideal conditions. Lower water temperatures during wintertime causes a slow down in metabolism and other processes, whilst during late winter and early spring physiological changes in preparation for spawning further reduce appetite. They are opportunistic feeders the vast majority of the time and in a good example of the range of sources that they can consider as food a recently caught fish contained a large cuttlefish, a giant sandeel and two hard backed crabs and was also in the process of eating a 7 senko worm which he considered as another item on the menu! The capture and storing of living energy is a full time job especially if you have competition from other members in your group trying to do the same thing! Swimming along in a shoal of equally hungry fish their senses highly tuned to the capture of prey, the response to feeding opportunities is based around the following (not in any
31
particular order) 1. Movement (or behaviour) 2. Shape 3. Size 4. Colour Each of these elements trigger a possibility of food. During opportunistic feeding times which is the vast majority of the time, bass will simply eat anything that is presented correctly, i.e. moving at the correct depth! But we all know that this is not always the case how many of us have felt the frustration of fish, follow after follow with no take. In this (selective) instance fish are responsive to movement and take up positions to eat but then refuse to do so other elements in the make up of prey characteristics become part of the decision to eat or not that secondary trigger might be any one of the elements above shape size or colour. Fish see colour during daylight hours only their eyes have evolved to perceive contrast and movement in ways in which we cant detail is not perceived. I often hear anglers say I cant catch something on a hot pink lure but this is only because we are limited to this is how we see it in our world. Fish living in the multifaceted and fractured world of an underwater environment may on occasion perceive hot pink against an underwater background or light much easier than a grey or an olive. It gives you an angling colour contrast edge. During opportunistic feeding times you as an angler are not necessarily trying to present lures or flies that are naturally realistic in terms of finish, theres no harm in this but its not always necessary. During opportunistic times if fish can see something better or more obviously against an underwater background and current light conditions by virtue of contrast and you then combine this with good movement and animation you are on a winner. Remember prey is always trying to hide, be invisible, you as an angler are trying to present prey that is more obvious to predators - dont make it more difficult than it already is. Predatory fish respond to movement Predatory fish perceive contrast better than detail During opportunistic feeding times fish competing for food rely on less of the stimuli to eat your fly or lure Conditions will affect the way and where fish are feeding Behavioural movement imitation can be significant Make things easy for bass to eat your fly or lure A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
A perspective - the 'value' of locations

Thursday, August 18, 2011
'I don't mind sharing hard-won information. In fact, I relish it. So many steelheaders are tight-lipped regarding most every aspect of the sport. I am not necessarily going to tell you the exact spot to fish - that knowledge needs to be earned. But giving other anglers the tools and confidence is common, sportsman's courtesy. There is still a lot to be figured out through personal trial and error.' From - A passion for steelhead - Dec 32
Hogan A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
im a frayed knot........
Friday, September 02, 2011
An early birthday present

Saturday, December 17, 2011
A search is over. Considering that Dec 21 2012 is the speculated end of the world AND my birthday and the winter solstice, this could be the best (and last) birthday present I have ever received! A little bit of fishing in your day - Jim
33
0101050147
Non-customer created content SharedBook and its licensors. All rights reserved by their respective parties. Patents pending for the SharedBook technology. NOT FOR RESALE. For personal, noncommercial use only. LIABILITY LIMITED TO COST OF PRODUCT.

Bass Fishing Wexford - On The Lure

Uploaded by

Document Information

Original Title

Copyright

Available Formats

Share this document

Share or Embed Document

Sharing Options

Did you find this document useful?

Is this content inappropriate?

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bass Fishing Wexford - On The Lure

Uploaded by

Copyright:

Available Formats

Bass Fishing Wexford - On the lure

To Bass fishers everywhere

A perspective - the 'value' of locations im a frayed knot........ An early birthday present

Saltwater Lure Fishing P10 of 21 - Catch & Release