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april 2012

april 2012

Beyond Security Towards Peace


The Yeongsangangs Winding History and Flowing Taste

History and Cuisine of Naju


Along Rivers and Seashores, Up Mountains, and Past Fortresses

Walk and Trek

www.korea.net

Learn korean

Whats Your name?

What do you say when you meet a person for the first time? Lets ask others about their names and professions in the Korean language.
In Korea, a surname is placed before a first name. In general, a person calls another by his/ her full name, but among close friends or children, quite often, only their first name is used when they address each other. In formal speech, Koreans put (ssi) after a persons name. However, sometimes it sounds impolite to use (ssi) after the name of someone older than yourself.

A : ?

(Whats your name?)

B : .

seonghami eotteoke doeseyo?

(My name is kim Junseon.)

Kim Junseon-ieyo.

A : ?

(What do you do?)

B : .

Junseon ssineun museun ireul haseyo?

(I am a police officer.)

gyeongchalgwan-ieyo.

Lets practice Try to make a conversation as suggested by the following


example and vocabulary.

doctor

student

company worker

police officer

uisa

haksaeng

hoesawon

gyeongchalgwan

A: ? B: . A: ? B: .

contents
april 2012 Vol.8 no.4

2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit


Special Report Fruitful Nuclear Summit brings Vibrancy to Seoul Communiqu The Seoul Communiqu of the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit Interview Beyond Security and Towards Lasting Peace Opinion Koreas Role in Advancing 21st Century Nuclear Material Security Governance Hot Issue Industry Experts Discuss Nuclear Security and Nuclear Power Safety

Cover Story

02

12 Pen & brush Kim Yeon-su, a novelist Who aspires to do Something new

16 People dr. Young Woo Kang, my disability is Gods ability

20 Great Korean Kim Koo, a Great Leader of Korea

22 Seoul Galleries in tongui-dong

26 Travel history and Cuisine of naju

30 festival Jinhae Gunhang Cherry blossom Festival

32 Now in Korea Walk and trek in Korea

36 Entertainment manhwa-based dramas

38 Sports South Korean Judokas are ready

40 Global Korea Korea extends education aid in Science and technology

42 Special Issue expo 2012 Yeosu Korea

45 flavor bom namul, Spring Seasoned Vegetables

46 My Korea Korean hypermarts Whats the hype?

49 Learn Korean Whats Your name?

publisher Woo Jin-Yung, Korean Culture and Information Service editing the booK CompanY e-mail webmaster@korea.net printing Jeonkwang printing&Information all rights reserved. no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOrea and the Korean Culture and Information Service. the articles published in KOrea do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. the publisher is not liable for errors or omissions. If you want to receive a free copy of KOrea or wish to cancel a subscription, please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF file of KOrea and a map and glossary with common Korean words appearing in our text are available by clicking on the thumbnail of KOrea on the homepage of www.korea.net.

11-1110073-000016-06

Cover story

Peace Summit for a Peaceful World without Nuclear Terrorism

The 2012 Nuclear Security Summit, which was held at Seoul COEX, came to an end on March 27 following two days of discussion between 57 leaders from states and international organizations. The Seoul Summit produced concrete and visible plans to implement an international consensus on the issue, thereby taking one step forward to realizing a world without nuclear terrorism. Leaders announced voluntary measures they have taken or plan to take, and further adopted the Seoul Communiqu which lays out comprehensive and specific measures to prevent nuclear and radiological terrorism.

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Special report

owards the end of March, the neighborhood of Samseong-dong, southern Seoul,

In a speech delivered to a plenary session on March 27, President Lee Myung-bak warned of the dangers posed by nuclear materials if nothing is done. Should nuclear materials fall into the hands of terrorists, humanity will face a most daunting threat and challenge, he said. This is because there is no effective way to deter terrorist groups from using nuclear materials once they have it. Terrorists know neither mercy nor compromise. They will not hesitate for a moment in taking innocent lives to obtain their goals. President Lee said there still exists around the world some 1,600 tons of Highly Enriched Uranium (HEU) in addition to 500 tons of plutonium. We must seek a fundamental solution

was suddenly under tight security. The area surrounding the Convention and Exhibition (COEX) Center was heavily guarded as the second Nuclear Security Summit took place from March 26 to 27. The efforts paid off, as the largest-ever global

1 President Lee Myung-bak answers questions at the press conference. 2 The First Session of the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit commences.

The two-day Seoul Nuclear Security Summit was finished with commitments to cut nuclear materials that could be used to make up to some 17,000 nuclear bombs. by Kang Hyun-kyung

photographs by YONHAP NEWS

Fruitful Nuclear Summit brings Vibrancy to Seoul

gathering which was held in South Korea not only showcased the local culture, but also resulted in important commitments to cutting down on nuclear materials. During the two-day event, leaders discussed ways to remove nuclear materials and came up with plans to reduce them to help the international community achieve the ultimate goal of a world free of nuclear weapons which was envisioned by US President Barack Obama.

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communiqu

Seoul Summit was a premier economic forum convened to come up with solutions to the economic crisis. This time, the Nuclear Security Summit will serve as a premier global security forum to deal with peace and security issues of 7 billion people around the world. The term nuclear terrorism gained global attention after the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks which killed thousands of people in New York, as the tragedy vividly showed how devastating the consequences could be from the actions of
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The Seoul Communiqu of the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit


The 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit was attended by the top leaders and representatives of 53 countries and four international organizations. It marked a major advance by the international community towards the prevention of nuclear terrorism. by Lee Seon-min

non-state actors. During the Seoul summit, the leaders focused on ways to prevent the transfer of nuclear materials to non-state actors such as terrorists. Their discussion was summarized in a communiqu, dubbed the Seoul Communiqu: 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit, which was released at the end of the summit. north Koreas nucLear issue At the press conference held shortly after the summit on March 27, President Lee Myungbak expressed concern over North Koreas plan to launch a rocket next month stating that The Chinese president has also implored

he 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit produced a specific and tangible outcome

towards freeing the world of nuclear and radiological terrorism and concluded in the afternoon of March 27 with the adoption of the Seoul Communiqu. The communiqu was announced by South Korean President Lee Myung-bak in a press conference immediately afterwards. The 2010 Washington Nuclear Security Summit had initiated the Nuclear Security Summit process and forged international determination to realize nuclear security. The attendees of the Seoul summit galvanized international cooperation by unanimously adopting the Seoul Communiqu, which lays out comprehensive and specific actions to improve nuclear security, reduce the threat of nuclear and radiological terrorism, and prevent unauthorized acquisition of nuclear materials. The communiqu encourages universal adherence to relevant international conventions agenda of the Washington summit, which discussed the protection of nuclear materials and facilities and possible responses to nuclear smuggling. The Seoul summit saw not only individual national commitments made but also voluntary joint proposals announced on nuclear smuggling, sensitive nuclear information, and nuclear materials in transit. It effectively presented a new cooperative model on nuclear security for the international community. The leaders and representatives who attended the Seoul Summit agreed to meet again at the third Nuclear Security Summit in the Netherlands in 2014 in order to have even more in-depth discussions on nuclear security and review the progress of fulfillment of the commitments made in Seoul. With the third summit confirmed, the international community will build on the momentum generated by the summit process towards a safer world for all.
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Pyongyang to give up its satellite launch next month and focus on peoples livelihood rather than spending billions of dollars in a satellite launch. President Lee reemphasized Chinese President Hu Jintaos comment that was made at the Korea-China talks held the day before. Summit, which leaders of all the nations of the six-party talks attended except for North Korea, the biggest issue at hand was the North Korean problem. From March 24 to 27, President Lee met the leaders of 16 nations and organizations including the US, China, Russia, Australia, Italy, India, and Thailand, out of which 11 leaders and U.N. Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon all urged in one voice for North Korea to halt its rocket launch. The leaders of the US, China, and Russia all agreed on stopping the launch plan which is widely seen as a test of long-range missile technology.
photographs by YONHAP NEWS in cooperation with the Preparatory Secretariat 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit

1 President Barack Obama, third from left, sits across the table from Chinese President Hu Jintao, third from right, at the start of their bilateral meeting in Seoul, South Korea. 2 South Korean First Lady Kim Yoon-ok (center) poses for a group photo with the spouses of world leaders at a luncheon.

and the most optimal way to prevent nuclear terrorism is to promptly minimize and eventually eliminate excess nuclear materials which can be used as ingredients for nuclear weapons, President Lee said. During the gathering participating nations agreed to eliminate HEU, which can make thousands of nuclear bombs. Largest gathering The Seoul summit set forth the idea that its goal is not a far-fetched dream. On March 19, President Lee said the ultimate goal of the meeting was a world free of nuclear weapons. In a biweekly radio and Internet address, Lee said, Leaders from all around the world will meet together in Seoul to discuss how to make a world free of nuclear weapons. The last G20

US President Barack Obama covers the mricrophone as he speaks with President Lee Myung-bak and Russian President Dmitry Medvedev.

During the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security

including the Convention on the Physical Protection of Nuclear Material (CPPNM) and seeks to bring the 2005 Amendment to the CPPNM into force by 2014. It underlines the importance of appropriate handling of nuclear materials including highly enriched uranium (HEU) and encourages countries to announce voluntary specific actions intended to minimize the use of HEU by the end of 2013. The Seoul Communiqu widens the horizon of international discussion on nuclear security by taking a comprehensive approach and adding new issues such as the protection of radioactive sources and the nexus between nuclear security and nuclear safety to the

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interview

opinion

Beyond Security and Towards Lasting Peace


Deputy Minister for Multilateral and Global Affairs Kim Bong-hyun, a Korean Sherpa for the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit, tells KOREA about the background and implications of the Nuclear Security Summit hosted by Seoul and how it built on the 2010 Washington Nuclear Security Summit. by Lee Jeong-eun

Koreas Role in Advancing 21st Century Nuclear Material Security Governance


President of the Partnership for Global Security Kenneth N. Luongo gives insight into global nuclear security and South Koreas role and responsibilities. by Kenneth N. Luongo

Why was the Republic of Korea selected to host the 2012 Nuclear Security Summit? Korea was chosen in comprehensive consideration of many factors such as its firm determination to realize nonproliferation, its superb capability to operate nuclear power plants as the worlds fifth largest nuclear power producer, its extensive experience in hosting international conferences, and its diplomatic capacity to broker
Kim Bong-hyun is Deputy Minister for Multilateral and Global Affairs, and Korean Sherpa for the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit.

reaching an agreement on such a matter is always a challenge. As the summit chair, South Korea was responsible for hammering out an agreement supported by all participants by reconciling their different stances. How did the Seoul Summit build on the Washington Summit? The 2010 Washington Nuclear Security Summit was meaningful in that it put on the table the threat of nuclear terrorism and international cooperation for discussion by the international community. The 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit was more focused on taking practical action on those issues at the summit level. What is the most important outcome of the Seoul Nuclear Security Summit? The Seoul Summit produced practical measures to prevent nuclear terrorism. The participating countries announced such visible outcomes as (i) the removal of nuclear materials, (ii) the ratification of an international treaty on nuclear security, (iii) the expansion of financial support for the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA), and (iv) the founding of nuclear security education centers. Another outcome of the Seoul Summit is the upgrading of South Koreas status as the chair country of major international conferences. South Koreas successful hosting of both the 2010 G20 Seoul Summit and the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit demonstrate that Korea has indeed emerged as an important player on the global stage.

n March 26-27, more than 50 world leaders gathered in Seoul for the second

nuclear responsibilities seriously and its decision to host the 2012 NSS positions the country to become a global leader in nuclear security. Korea occupies a unique position in the nuclear spectrum. It is a significant domestic consumer of nuclear energy, and a rising exporter of nuclear technology. It is a nonnuclear weapons state with a nuclear armed neighbor. And, as a member of the G20 and contributor to the G-8 Global Partnership Against the Spread of Weapons and Materials of Mass Destruction, Korea can act as a bridge between the developed and developing world on nuclear security issues. In particular it can explain to skeptical nations why the nuclear terrorism threat is real, how they can and should help to prevent this danger, and why it is in their interest to do so. South Korea can also play a vital role in the development of improved nuclear governance after the 2012 summit. Korean government officials have made public statements about the need to better address the gaps in todays global nuclear security governance structures. The theme of Koreas experts symposium that took place a few days prior to the official summit was Innovating Nuclear Security Governance. Korea should use the Seoul Summit as an opportunity to launch an initiative to build a regime for nuclear security governance that meets the realities of the 21st century threat environment.
Kenneth N. Luongo is the president and founder of the Partnership for Global Security (PGS). From 1994 to 1997 he served as the senior advisor to the Secretary of Energy for Nonproliferation Policy and as the director of the Department of Energys Russia and Newly Independent States Nuclear Material Security Task Force and as the Director of DoEs North Korea Task Force.

Nuclear Security Summit (NSS). Their objective was to prevent acts of nuclear terrorism by strengthening the global protection system for nuclear and radiological materials. This is a very important international event that was first held in Washington in 2010 after US President Barack Obamas speech about his nuclear objectives in Prague in 2009. nucLear security, nonProLFeration, saFety

agreements in international matters. What are the implications of Seouls hosting of the 2012 Nuclear Security Summit? The Nuclear Security Summit is an extremely important forum for the prevention of nuclear terrorism, which is a grave international security threat in the 21st century. Seouls hosting of a peace summit to discuss world peace and safety highlights its active participation in the mainstream of international security. It is also now in a better position to pursue its vision of a Global Korea. What is the role of the Republic of Korea as the summit chair? The participating countries of the Nuclear Security Summit are varied. They include nuclear weapon states (NWS) and non-nuclearweapon states (NNWS), parties and non-parties to the Non-Proliferation Treaty (NPT), and advanced and developing countries. They all share the common goal of devising effective means of responding to nuclear terrorism, but

Nuclear material security is sometimes misunderstood. It is focused on securing highly enriched uranium, plutonium, and high intensity radiological sources from terrorists and other non-state actors. Nuclear security is related to the other nuclear regimes including nonproliferation, arms control, and safety but it is different from them. Nuclear nonproliferation is about preventing countries from using their civilian nuclear infrastructure to produce nuclear weapons. Arms control involves the reduction of existing stockpiles of nuclear warheads and delivery vehicles (e.g. US-Russia START agreements). Nuclear safety focuses on the safe operation of nuclear reactors and other nuclear facilities so that there is no unauthorized release of radiation. While nuclear security is not among the three pillars of the Nuclear Non-Proliferation Treaty nonproliferation, disarmament, and peaceful use of nuclear energy it is a key element that underpins all three. The South Korean government takes its

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hot iSSue

Industry Experts Discuss Nuclear Security and Nuclear Power Safety


Nuclear experts gathered in Seoul, the capital of the Republic of Korea, to discuss the role of the nuclear industry in improving nuclear security and safety at the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Industry Summit held as a pre-summit event of the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit. by Lee Seon-min

he Republic of Korea has over 20 nuclear power plants and is ranked fifth in nuclear

the private sector can help improve nuclear security. The Nuclear Industry Summit was especially meaningful to those engaged in the nuclear industry. They acknowledged their share of responsibility for nuclear security and nuclear power safety and demonstrated their determination to take practical action accordingly. The nuclear industrys role in nuclear security is critical since it is the industry players that deal with nuclear and radioactive materials and facilities. This was fully emphasized not only at the Nuclear Security Summit in Washington DC in April 2010 but also at the industry meeting held in connection with the Sherpas Meeting in Buenos Aires, Argentina in November 2010 about the role of the private sector in securing nuclear materials. The industry players themselves share the understanding that nuclear security and nuclear power safety are the very

foundation of peaceful use of nuclear power and that they must assume their share of the responsibility. Natural disasters and terrorist attacks are very much the same in that they threaten nuclear power safety. They can both tremendously affect the environment and huge populations as we witnessed in the Fukushima disaster. restoring trust in nucLear Power aFter the FuKushima Disaster Present at the meetings were South Korean Prime Minister Kim Hwang-sik representatives of intergovernmental organizations such as the International Atomic Energy Agency (IAEA) and the Nuclear Energy Agency (NEA) of the OECD influential CEOs and other industry leaders and representatives of international nongovernmental organizations such as the World Nuclear Association (WNA), the World Institute for Nuclear Security (WINS), and the World Association of Nuclear Operators (WANO). The intense interest in the issue in both the public
cooperation with KOREA of the HYDRO & NUCLEAR POWER and Preparatory Secretariat 2012 Seoul Nuclear Industry Summit

technology. US President Barack Obama attended the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit and recognized that South Korea is indeed becoming a leader in nuclear technology. The 2012 Seoul Nuclear Industry Summit (NIS) was held on March 23-24 as an official pre-event of the 2012 Seoul Nuclear Security Summit. The talks were attended by CEOs and other representatives of the nuclear industry and organizations from around the world. The Nuclear Security Summit was an intergovernmental forum where the top leaders of countries and international organizations discussed nuclear security cooperation, and the Nuclear Industry Summit was a nongovernmental forum where leaders of the international nuclear industry and privatesector organizations discussed ways by which

approaches to security and safety, facilitation of international consultations, and infrastructure support for countries building their first nuclear power plants. On March 24, more than 130 summit attendees were given the opportunity to visit South Korean nuclear power sites including power plants, main equipment manufacturing facilities, and research institutes. Historic sites including Bulguksa (dates to 528 AD) and Tongdosa (datly to 646 AD) were also on the itinerary. The visitors came away from the experience impressed with the technology and culture of South Korea. The 2012 Seoul Nuclear Industry Summit is expected to yield tangible results in nuclear security and atomic power safety since businesses that are primarily responsibile for the two issues were involved. They demonstrated to the world their determination to work together to improve international systems for nuclear security and nuclear power safety. This will go far towards restoring public trust in nuclear power. South Korean leadership in the nuclear power industry greatly facilitated the hammering out of the communiqu, which in turn further consolidated the position of the South Korean nuclear power industry at home and abroad.
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1 South Korean Prime Minister Kim Hwang-sik gives the opening address at the Nuclear Industry Summit. 2 Uljin Nuclear Power Plant

and private sectors was readily apparent. The summit adopted a communiqu at the end of the meeting on March 23. detailing actions for the industry to take to assume a greater role in improving nuclear security, and it calls for the establishment of a culture conducive to nuclear security, minimum use of highly enriched uranium (HEU), cooperative R&D to reduce the use of HEU, support for IAEA recommendations, more effective response to cyber terrorism, sharing of the best practices in nuclear security, comprehensive

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PEN & BRUSH

Kim Yeon-su
by Im Sang-beom / photographs by Lee Jin-ha

A Novelist Who Aspires to do Something New


As a poet once quipped, novelist Kim Yeon-su is a major figure in Korean literature today. This novelist has fascinated readers with his versatile narratives and elegant style. He recently released a new novel entitled Wonder Boy. Lets meet this born novelist, who will soon mark the 20th anniversary of his debut in the literary world.

ould you introduce yourself for the readers of KOREA? Your reporter

literary magazine Jakga Segye (lit. Writers World). The following year, he put forth a novel entitled Gamyeon-eul Gariki-myeo Geotgi (Larvatus Prodeo). He worked at an office by day and translated by night for 15 years, and he invested all his earnings into writing novels. In order to share his joy from the excruciating time of patient creation, you need to first understand how he completes a novel. Writing a novel is unlike writing an interview or an essay; when you produce a draft, you have to create the lives of your protagonists out of nothing using your imagination, and then you have to live their lives in your imagination. For this reason, drafting is the most unbearable, painful part of the process. I realized that this process was comparable to dictating an audio interview only ten years after Id started writing my first novel. Only after that is a real novel created. According to Kim, the novelists job is to edit the draft. Once a story is established, he revises it over and over again and refuses to leave home until he is finished. In his epilogue to Seumu Sal (lit. Being 20), a collection of his short stories published in 2000, Kim wrote the following when he was feeling dispirited while thinking of the great French novelist, Patrick Modiano, who does not allow the publication of different versions of his novels: Immediately before leaving for Italy like a runaway, Goethe wrote to Charlotte von
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immediately poses a blunt question to the novelist, Kim Yeon-su. He looks fazed for a moment, but soon starts relating his story with composure, saying, I want to be a novelist who continues to write what he wants to write and in the course of doing so produces increasingly better works. He is the kind of novelist who displays strong determination to venture down un-trodden paths. He cannot bear anything tritewhether it be the form or content of a story. When he was in his 30s, he decided to do something considered very offbeat and write novels that other people could not read. Doing so, he assumed, would make it easier for him to write novels in his 40s. Im in my 40s, but still cannot write a novel that is easy and fun. If a novel is fun to read, it has a powerful story, Kim says. I used to ignore stories on purpose, but focus on words, expressions, and depictions. He now has his own definition of the novel and, therefore, knows better with every passing day what kind of novels he can write. SEEKING THE BEAUTY OF FOOTSTEPS OF THE PAST Kim Yeon-su made his literary debut in 1993. His poem was published by the publisher Segyesa in the summer issue of the seasonal

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Stein, his lover:I am revising my Werther and find that the writer was wrong in not shooting himself when he had finished writing it. [English translation from Goethe and Anna Amalia: a forbidden love? by Ettore Ghibellino and Daniel J. Farrelly; p. 166] Thanks to Goethe, my heart, which had been weighing heavily with thoughts of Modiano, could finally find comfort. When he stops revising a novel, it isnt because he is satisfied with it, but because he feels that there is nothing left he can do. Kim does not use the present tense and tells his stories in the first person. He believes that the beauty of narratives reveals itself only after the entire story of a novel is told, but is seldom found when it is being told. Since the stories of his novels are recounted in retrospect, he describes his novels as love stories. The beauty of a novel is that it covers a long period of time, so if we write it in retrospect of what happened in the past, every sentence without exception becomes beautiful. He also has a clear idea of narrative modes. A third-person omniscient narrator may use irony, but he by nature does not like irony very much. Its like sifting out failures from successes. Since it is a perspective of history, I dont buy it. It is a perspective of violence like those of autobiographies of successful people. He categorically states that there is no
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Called the Name K.K.), in which I go to the motherland of my deceased lover and say to Happy, I hired you as my translator, but you dont understand anything I say at all. Here, you can see two people who sit tte--tte, chatting, but do not understand each other, who talk with each other but fail to communicate. Thus they are dissatisfied, feeling empty and hungry. I have a pessimistic view of the possibility of mutual understanding. I recently ordered a bookshelf to accommodate old and new editions of books which are different sizes, but what arrived was not at all what Id expected. I had to make several attempts to communicate precisely to the retailer what I wanted. It was about something tangible and visible. Then, what likely happens in communication about something abstract? Shared understanding is almost impossible. However, feelings seem to be shared: for instance, the emotional pains my daughter goes through. I think I understand them because I have gone through the same stages of life shes gone through. However, it is still difficult for me to understand my father. Thats why we need to talk. Kim says that the matter is not about character, but conversation, so theres no need to be angry or surprised. What is needed is conversation. When he sees people who are anxious due to issues of understanding and communication, he suspects loneliness is at the root of the problem. In the novel Wonder Boy, which came out last February, the author again raised the issue of understanding by means of the supernatural power of the protagonist. The story goes like this: Jeong Hun, 15, is in a car accident with his father in 1984 and gains the ability to read other peoples minds. His power is used to identify North Korean spies or filter out innocent suspects in criminal cases, but this ability disappears the moment he falls in love. True understanding about somebody cannot be attained simply by reading his or her mind, but starts with efforts to share his or her sorrows and pains. rEPrESENTATIvE WOrKS Foreign readers will soon have opportunities to read Kim Yeon-sus novels. Many of his works are being translated into different languages. For example, Ne-ga Nugu-deun, Eolmana Oeropdeun (Whoever You are, No matter how lonely you are) is being translated into Japanese, Chinese, and Russian, while Saranghae, Seonnyeong-a (lit. I Love You, Seonnyeong) into French. The French translation of his 2005 collection of short stories Na-neun Yuryeong Jakga Imnida (lit. Im a Ghost Writer) has been completed and is waiting to be published by the French publisher Zulma. This collection is also being translated into German and English. Another gale of Hallyu whipped by a representative novelist of the Republic of Korea who tells stories of human lives with elegant style may be in sight.
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He is currently writing a novel entitled Bada Jjogeuro Se Georeum (lit. Three Steps Toward the Sea). The novel features a man called second son. When Kim tells your reporter that the second son is the loveliest and most fascinating character he has ever created, his eyes sparkle with joy and enthusiasm. When the novel comes out, we will be able to meet Kim Yeon-su again, as a better storyteller as he expects to have even more beautiful stories of life to tell.

possibility that he will write a novel with a third-person omniscient narrator, which makes human efforts seem in vain. UNATTAINABlE GOAlS OF SHArEd UNdErSTANdING ANd COmmUNICATION Each protagonist is put into different circumstances, but Kim Yeon-su invariably talks about mutual understanding and communication. One of the nine stories of his novel collection Segye-ui Kkeut, Yeoja Chingu (This title is known to be a Korean translation of the Japanese band Worlds End Girlfriend.) is Keikei-ui Ireum-eul Bulleo Bwaseo (lit. I

1 He is the kind of novelist who displays strong determination to venture down un-trodden paths. 2 In the novel Wonder Boy , the author raised the issue of understanding by means of the supernatural power of the protagonist.

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PEOPLE

my disability Is Gods Ability

Dr. Young Woo Kang


Dr. Young Woo Kang was the first Korean-American policy advisor to the U.S. White House. He was blind for most of his life, but before finally succumbing to pancreatic cancer this past February, he recalled on his deathbed that he had lived a blessed life.
by Lee Jeong-eun

hope you wont feel sorry for me or sorrowful because of me. You know I have

She dropped out of high school worked as a seamstress at a sweatshop in downtown Seoul and died as a result of overwork only about a year and a half later. His younger sister, then 9, was sent to an orphanage and his younger brother, 13, to a hardware store to work as a clerk. Young Woo was sent to an education and training center for persons with visual disabilities. Back then, Korea was very inhospitable for persons with disabilities, especially the blind. They were condemned not only to physical darkness but also to hopelessness. The situation was truly grim, but Young Woo refused to give up hope. He mustered all of his determination to study and managed to gain admission into the Education Department of Yonsei University in 1968, becoming the first blind person ever accepted into that prestigious university. When he graduated from Yonsei in 1972, he ranked second in academic achievement in the College of Education. Kang didnt stop there. He soon went on to the University of Pittsburgh School of Education in Pennsylvania on a Rotary Foundation Ambassadorial Scholarship. At that time, very few Koreans, even without disabilities, were able to study abroad, unlike the tens of thousands studying in the U.S. today. In 1976, he recorded another first by earning a doctorate in education philosophy. He was now the first visually impaired Korean with a doctors degree.
materials provided by Duranno Press, Munhakdongne Press (Happy Life) / references:My Eyes Could See Only Hope (Duranno Press) and A Father and Sons:Their Dreams (The Word of Life Press)

lived a happy and blessed life. Im also blessed to have the time to say goodbye to the people I love and put matters in order before I leave this world. Please understand that I cannot visit each and every one of you in person to say goodbye, and know that you all filled my life with love and grace. Thank you. Dr. Young Woo Kang was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer last October and passed away on February 23 this year after four months of treatment. Before his death, he emailed his friends and acquaintances to say goodbye and thank everyone while reflecting on his life, a life lived mainly with visual disability, a life marked by many honorable firsts, and a life that inspired and healed many souls in the world. CHIldHOOd BESET BY mISFOrTUNE Young Woo Kang was born near Seoul in 1944. He lost his sight in a sporting accident when he was only 14. He was playing soccer with friends, and the ball struck him hard in the face. His mother suffered a stroke eight hours later at the news that her son would never be able to see again, and she passed away. His father had already been deceased for some time. The overwhelming burden of supporting the family suddenly and inexorably fell on his older sister. She had no time to grieve, regardless of the sorrow she herself was experiencing.

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1 Family photo taken with President Bush. 2 Dr. Kang with Jean Kennedy Smith, sister to President John F. Kennedy. 3 Meeting Superman (Christoper Reeve) at the UN. 4 His wife Seok Eun-ok was his soul mate for life.

Kang depended on her as he would his older sister. Before he left Korea to study in the U.S., he proposed to her. He recalls his proposal in his posthumously published book My Eyes Could See Only Hope (Duranno Press) as follows: Instead of giving her a large sparkling diamond, I shared with her my hopes and dreams for the future using the three syllables of her name: Seok Eun-ok. I said, Seok! The first decade with me will be an era of seok (stone). It will be like walking on a gravel path for I will have to study. Eun! The second decade with me will be an era of eun

Democratic leader. He now serves as Special Assistant to the White House for legislative affairs. lOvE FOr KOrEA Dr. Kang recalled, The moment I felt the most rewarded as senior advisor to the Roosevelt Institute was probably when South Korea became the first recipient of the Roosevelt International Disability Award. He proposed the establishment of the Franklin D. Roosevelt International Disability Award while serving as senior advisor to the Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt Institute and vice chair of the World Committee on Disability. He hoped that the Republic of Korea would be its first recipient. He persuaded the panel to choose South Korea by citing his own case as proof of how the status of persons with disabilities had changed for the better in the country. Thanks to his efforts, the panel duly selected Korea as the first recipient by unanimous consent. Since being honored with the award, the Korean government has made a number of improvements in its policy toward persons with disabilities. Among these, it established a government agency to handle affairs of persons with challenges, increased the budget for their welfare by 40 percent, and devised a five-year plan for the improvement of their welfare. Dr. Kangs love of Korea was not only expressed in his efforts to advance the rights of persons with disabilities in South Korea. He donated USD 10,000 for the construction of the Korea Heritage Room, soon to be established within the Cathedral of Learning on the main campus of the University of Pittsburgh. ONE SPACE CAN mAKE A TrEmENdOUS dIFFErENCE One saying that was almost always on the lips of Dr. Kang was this: If you add a space in the word nowhere, you get now here. One mere press of the space bar changes nowhere (Nowhere is there a breakthrough.) to now here (It is now here.). You are done for if you have lost all hope, but
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if you think hope is now here, youll see a new opportunity. Giving up hope is more serious than contracting cancer. There is nothing worse than yielding to negative thinking and giving up. On his deathbed, Dr. Kang wrote a letter to his sons, who had followed his belief and vision well. The letter states, I thank you for adhering to my advice, Never give up anything before you try it, and for growing up so well. It was a blessing for me to have been your father for half of my life. He did not forget to leave a message to those facing hardship and trials: I have lived a more difficult life than most people, but as a result, many more good things than bad ones happened in my life. So, dont give up.

(silver) for we will raise children, settle in the workplace, and grow as members of society. Ok! The third decade with me will be an era of ok (jade) for we will live a life of service to others to repay the love and generosity we will have received. In the book quoted above, he also adds, My wife was the furnace of our family. She filled my life and my childrens lives with her warmth. Under a father who was blind and had
2

overcome all sorts of hardships and a mother who embraced and supported her family with complete devotion, Dr. Kangs two sons grew up to become fine, upstanding gentlemen. He wrote in another book A Father and Sons: Their Dreams (The Word of Life Press): My disability was not an obstacle for my sons. It was a reason for them to dream of changing the world and assume new challenges with courage. His older son, Paul Kang, dreamed as a child of restoring his fathers eyesight. He studied at Harvard University and became an assistant clinical professor at the Department of Ophthalmology at Georgetown University. He is also one of the eight members of the Eye Doctors of Washington and was dubbed one of the Super Doctors of 2011 by the magazine of the Washington Post. His second son, Christopher Kang, always had a flair for writing and made an excellent writing partner to his father. He is a lawyer and was a Senate floor counsel to an assistant U.S. Senate

Dr. Young Woo Kang served as Supervisor of Special Education in Indiana and as an adjunct professor in special education at Northeastern Illinois University in Chicago before he became a policy advisor of the National Council on Disability to the White House in 2011, achieving yet another first. He remained active after retiring as a policy advisor and founded and managed the Education and Rehabilitation Exchange Foundation (EREF). He also served as Vice Chairman of the World Committee on Disability, and in so doing, helped establish the Franklin D. Roosevelt International Disability Award. mY dISABIlITY WAS A rEASON TO drEAm FOr mY CHIldrEN Kang would not have been able to achieve so much without his familys support. His wife had been a college student volunteer at the education and training center for persons with visual disabilities that he attended. At first,
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19

GREAT KOREAN

I want our nation to become the most beautiful nation in the world. I do not want our nation to become the richest and most powerful nation in the world. Because I have felt the pain of being invaded by another nation, I do not want my nation to invade others. It is sufficient that our wealth makes our lives abundant and our military strength is adequate to repel invaders. The only thing that I desire infinitely is the power of a highly-developed culture. This is because the power of culture both makes us happy and gives happiness to others.

collaborate with communists, socialists, and anarchists in the interests of nationalism. After being elected president of the provisional government in 1940, he formed Korean Independence Army that the Koreans may reclaim national independence on their own. In 1944, his provisional government absorbed many different independence movement organizations. After Korea was set free from Japanese
Kim Koo making a speech at the South-North negotiations.

colonial rule, Kim Koo returned home and opposed the founding of a South Korean government, instead advocated the founding of a unified Korean government. He even sat at the negotiation table in Pyongyang. This great visionary, activist, and leader of the Korean nation was shot to death by Ahn Du-hui, a second lieutenant of the South Korean army. He never saw his vision for his nation come true, but he is still admired by his compatriots as a leading independence activist who advocated independent nationalism and as a great leader who directed the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea.

a firm foundation for a united Korea after the nations liberation. When the nation lost its sovereignty and suffered ideological conflict, he underscored the power of culture as a means of creating a bright future for the nation. A lIFE dEvOTEd TO NATIONAl

he quotation above was taken from Baekbeom Ilji (Journal of Baekbeom) by Kim

INdEPENdENCE Kim Koo was born in Haeju, Hwanghaedo (Hwanghae Province) in 1876. In 1907, he organized Sinminhoe (The New Peoples Association), an underground organization aimed at national independence, together with such great patriots as Ahn Chang-ho and Lee Seung-hun. In 1911, he was arrested on charges of involvement in an attempted assassination of Governor-General Terauchi Masatake and was sentenced to 15 years in prison. (The Japanese arrested over 600 Korean patriots and indicted 105. Thus, this prosecution of Korean independence activists is called the 105-Person Case.) He was released on parole in 1915. Immediately after the Samil Independence Movement (March 1st Movement), which broke
based on materials provided by the Association of Commemorative Services for Patriot Kim Koo

Koo (also spelled Kim Gu; 1876-1949), a widely respected Korean patriot whose pen name was Baekbeom. Readily apparent is his yearning for Korea to become the most beautiful country in the world by leveraging the power of its culture. Kim Koo was an independence movement activist and leader of the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea, headquartered in Shanghai, China (1919-1948). He headed the government for 27 years when Korea was under Japanese occupation. He was also a national leader who endeavored to lay

BaekBeom IljI (lit. journal of BaekBeom)


The journal has come out in many versions by different publishers. No one who reads it will fail to be impressed by Kim Koos yearning for national independence. His nationalistic philosophy is also well expressed in the journal. He wrote the first volume of his journal so that his two sons back home could know what their father was doing at the risk of losing his life as president of the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea in a foreign country. The first volume is effectively his will to his children. He wrote the second volume of the journal primarily for Koreans living abroad, especially in Hawaii and the mainland US It records his experience and insights as a national independence leader. When he was writing, he never dreamed that his journal would one day be published in his fatherland. When the decision was made in 1947 to go ahead with its publication, he was overwhelmed with emotion and added a short essay entitled My Wishes at the end of the journal. The original copy of Baekbeom Ilji is displayed at the Kim Koo Museum & Library in Hyochang, Yongsan-gu, Seoul. This history museum about the life and thinking of Kim Koo displays a wealth of materials and artifacts related to Kim Koo and the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea. English brochures and audio books are available for foreigners. For more information, visit the museums website at www.kimkoomuseum.org.

Kim Koo

out on March 1, 1919, he went into exile in China to join the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea, which was founded on April 13, 1919. He led the provisional governments independence movement for the next 27 years until he came back to his fatherland in November 1945 at the age of 69. Kim Koo held fast to a nationalist ideology during those 27 years. He explored ways to

A Great leader of Korea who Emphasized the Power of Culture


Kim Koo led the Korean independence movement as president of the Provisional Government of the Republic of Korea during the Japanese occupation. He was a mentor and pathfinder for Korea who envisioned a beautiful country and emphasized the power of culture. by Kim Min-seon
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21

SEOUL

procuring meats, salts, and firewood for the palace. High court officials walked through this neighborhood to go to work, and middle-class merchants and craftsmen set up shops there. The air of authority lingers to this day, for Cheong Wa Dae was built in the 1970s just beyond the palace. For security reasons, buildings within this area cannot exceed four stories, and windows cannot face the presidential residence. Commercial businesses are reluctant to establish their presence in this area because of the lack of pedestrian traffic and the strict building code, but these are precisely the reasons that the area has attracted galleries, achieving a classy and peaceful ambience like no other. One of the first galleries to come to Tonguidong was Jean Art Gallery in the late 1970s. It was a pioneer in shaping the Tongui-dong gallery scene at a time when art galleries were relatively new in Korea. In the more than 30 years since, more galleries such as Daelim is a studio and gallery that specializes in photography. Situated in a small alley between residential houses, Ryugaheon is actually an original Hanok that was remodeled to house the gallery and a caf. Like most galleries in this area, visitors are free to walk into the Hanok without paying any admission fee and view the latest exhibit or just rest on the wooden porch. Tongui-dong Boan Yeogwan used to be an he old city of Seoul clustered around Gyeongbokgung, the main royal palace of JUST BEYONd THE PAlACE WAllS The best way to explore Tongui-dong is on foot, starting from Gyeongbokgung Station. Do not be alarmed by the uniformed policemen strolling through the neighborhood. They are on patrol as the area is in close proximity to Cheong Wa Dae, the South Korean presidential residence. From the main street of Tongui-dong, the blue roof of Cheong Wa Dae can be seen over the western wall of Gyeongbokgung. The close proximity to the palace and the presidential residence is what gives Tongui-dong its unique historical and tranquil character. During the Joseon Dynasty, Tongui-dong was home to government offices in charge of
3 2 1 Artside Gallery is one of the galleries that has taken space in Tonguidong. 2 The latest exhibition of Daelim Contemporary Art Museum. 3 The Hanok exterior of Ryugaheon. 1

galleries in tongui-Dong
The quaint neighborhood of Tongui-dong beckons visitors looking for art, culture, and reminiscences of the past. by Chung Da-young / photographs by Ha Ji-young

Contemporary Art Museum, Brain Factory, and Ryugaheon have moved into the neighborhood and created a new identity for Tongui-dong as a gallery district. The neighborhood is dotted by some 20 galleries, each with its own unique character reflected even on the exterior. Ryugaheon

the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910), attracts people for its many charms. Samcheong-dong, to the east of Gyeongbokgung, is a trendy hotspot for restaurants and boutiques. Insadong is famous for its streets filled with Korean tradition and style. Between these two areas is Gahoe-dong, where the small alleys are lined with Hanok houses. Aside from the popular destinations east of Gyeongbokgung, there is a serene area west of the palace with its own special charm: Tonguidong. It is a small neighborhood frequented mostly by art lovers and city adventurers for its many art galleries along the alleys.
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actual inn, as indicated by its name Yeogwan, which means inn. It opened in the 1930s, and in the 1950s young aspiring writers and poets, including the famous poet Seo Jeong-ju, stayed at the inn before settling in the city. Even after it was turned into a gallery in 2007, the building faade and the original name were left unchanged, carrying on the history of the building. While walking along the alleys of Tonguidong, visitors can feel the history and lives of the locals quietly mingling with modern art. This is a truly unique part of Seoul. A day spent in Tongui-dong is sure to end with pleasant surprises and perhaps a new flare for art.
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dAElIm CONTEmPOrArY ArT mUSEUm Founded in 1996, Daelim Contemporary Art Museum was Koreas first museum that specialized in photography. It moved to Tongui-dong in 2002 and reopened as a modern art museum for design, photography, and fashion. It is one of the major museums in Seoul where people go to learn about the latest trends and styles or to enjoy pop art. Visitors may also join guided tours led by the museums trained docents, which are scheduled three times a day.

Exhibit in April Finn Juhls 100 th Birthday


Daelim Museum will hold an exhibit to commemorate the 100th birthday of Finn Juhl, one of Scandinavias leading designers of modern furniture. Also an architect and interior and industrial designer, the Dane is best known for his revolutionary furniture designs that set him apart from other designers at a time when mass production was the norm.
Hours Tuesday to Sunday, 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Entrance fee KRW 5,000 for adults (approx. USD 5) / KRW 3,000 for students (approx. USD 3) / KRW 2,000 for young children (approx. USD 2) Tel 82-2-720-0667 Website www.daelimmuseum.org

tongui-Dong gallerY guiDe

Gallery Zein Xeno


Gallery Zein Xeno is popular in Tonguidong for its innovative exhibits and bright red gallery walls.

Palais de Seoul
Palais de Seoul opened in 2010 and is one of the largest galleries in Tongui-dong. It has seven exhibit halls, a rooftop terrace for events, and an art shop on the first floor.

Brain Factory
Brain Factory is a non-profit exhibition venue that encourages emerging artists to present their works of contemporary visual art.

Tongui-dong Boan Yeogwan


Dont be fooled by the name of the gallery, which ends with Yeogwan (lit. inn). The gallery displays works of local artists and rents out space for private art exhibits.

Palais de Seoul Gallery Zein Xeno Kunstdoc Gallery Brain Factory Tongui-dong Boan Yeogwan Ryugaheon
Tucked inside a quaint residential alley, Ryugaheon is a Hanok renovated as a gallery where visitors can enjoy photography exhibits and grab a cup of coffee from the gallery caf.

JEAN ArT GAllErY Opened in 1972, Jean Art Gallery is one of Koreas oldest galleries. It was also the first to set up shop in Tongui-dong when it moved there in 1977. It has since introduced young artists from home and abroad. The metallic butterfly sculpture between its two red brick buildings makes the gallery easy to spot from the main road. The two-meter dotted pumpkin sculpture by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama is also hard to miss.

Exhibit in April Classy Lifestyle with Artwork of Park Hyun-su


Jean Art Gallery has arranged a special exhibit of contemporary abstract paintings by Park Hyun-su. His works are infused with modern interior concepts. They are displayed along with various kinds of furniture that represent living spaces at home, like a bedroom, giving insight to the type of abstract art that can be part of everyday life.
Hours Monday to Saturday, 10:00 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. Tel 82-2-738-7570 Website www.jeanart.net

Ryugaheon

Artside Gallery

Jean Art Gallery

Gallery Simon

Daelim Contemporary Art Museum


cooperation with Daelim Contemporary Art Museum and Jean Art Gallery

Gallery Cha Gallery Simon


This gallery showcases prominent artwork of contemporary Korean artists and discovers promising new artists.

National Palace Museum of Korea

Gyeongbokgung Station

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25

TRAvEL

HistorY anD Cuisine of naju


by Lee Jeong-eun / photographs by Moon Duk-gwan

The Yeongsangangs Winding History and Flowing Taste

Naju in Jeollanam-do is a city full of history, a city where you feel the spirit of 2,000 years of abundance and prosperity brought to life on the fertile Naju Plain.

do (South Jeolla Province), passes by Gwangju, Naju, and Yeongam, and runs through Mokpo, where it empties into the Yellow Sea. Whenever it meets a tributary, the river meanders with even more fluent curves and bears an even greater load of fertile soil to Naju. In fact, the name of the province, Jeolla, is taken from the first syllables of the names of two cities, Jeonju and Naju, with some Korean pronunciation rules applied. This indicates how
26 korea 2012 april

he Yeongsangang is a river that originates in Yong-myeon, Damyang-gun, Jeollanam-

important the city of Naju has been throughout history. The city was long a commercial center; it attracted specia foods of all kinds from all over the Jeolla and Gyeongsang regions. Every kind of seafood was carried up the Yeongsangang, and grains produced on the Naju Plain filled the granaries and marketplace of Naju.
cooperation with Naju City

Hence the old saying, Jeonju is for beauty; Naju is for flavor. UNFOrGETTABlE, AddICTIvE TASTE BY FErmENTATION Naju is especially renowned for Yeongsanpo hongeo and Naju gomtang. The latter is the premiere meat dish of Jeollanam-do. This soup originated from janggukbap, which was made by simmering beef brawn, intestines, and so forth for a long time. It was served on the day of oiljang, which was a market that opened

once every five days. It can be found at many restaurants in downtown Naju. The soup is clear and has a lot of meat. These two dishes are outshined by Yeongsanpo hongeo (fermented skate). Its pungent scent and taste are unmistakable and truly unique. Some people say it has aesthetics of fermentation in allusion to this specialty. The fish contains ten times more urine than other fish, which transforms into ammonia through fermentation, making the fish an extremely alkaline food.

Yeongsangang flowing through Naju brought many specialties to the city.

A wonderful style of cuisine naturally flourished here, and the city became famous for such delicacies as Yeongsanpo hongeo (fermented skate), Naju gomtang (beef bone soup), Naju jangeo-gui (broiled eel), and Songhyeon bulgogi.

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The piercing, stimulating scent and taste of ammonia may at first be repulsive to the uninitiated but have a powerful addictive effect. Korea is the only country in the world where skate is served. 2,000 YEArS OF HISTOrY IN NAJU Naju has many clusters of tumuli. Some are as old as 2,000 years. A group of ancient tumuli in Bannam dates to Mahan, a confederacy of 54 small chiefdoms that thrived from around the 1st century BCE to the 3rd century CE. The cluster includes tumuli big and small over a vast area and is believed to have been formed over a period of 200 years. Some of the hidden treasures of the tumuli have been excavated. Notably, in Tumulus No. 9 in Sinchon, archeologists discovered a gilt-bronze crown (National Treasure No. 295), gilt-bronze shoes, and a decorated Korean sword called hwandudae-do, among other artifacts. The presence of some 35 tumuli in Bannam and nearby Bogam indicates that the ruling class of the Mahan Confederacy established itself along the Yeongsangang, which was the source of their power. Naju Eupseong, through which a creek
1 Visitors can stay at a traditional Hanok house at Geumhak Heon. 2 Foreign visitors are taking part in the citys cooking event. 3 One of the best ways to enjoy the Yeongsangang is to sail on a hwangpo dotbae. 1

called Najucheon flows, became an important administrative unit called Naju-mok in 983. Numerous remains from the Goryeo Dynasty (918-1392) stand along its banks including many ramparts. Two big gates called Namgomun and Dongjeommun were restored in 1993 and 2006, giving us some insight as to what Naju Eupseong may have looked like as a castle area during the Goryeo period. Back then, Geumseong Gwan was the largest lodging facility in the nation, and Geumhak Heon was the main building of the residence of the chief of Naju-mok. Both are now open as accommodations. At the center of the campus of Naju Hyanggyo, a government-run provincial academy, stands Daeseong Jeon. It was designated as Treasure No. 394 for its uncommon architectural beauty and historical value. The Yeongsangang has long been the lifeblood of the Naju Plain, which is the breadbasket of the Jeolla region. The river has provided livelihoods and a variety of foods and attractions. One of the best ways to enjoy the Yeongsangang is to sail on a hwangpo dotbae, a traditional wooden boat with yellowish sail. The boat plies the waters for about two kilometers between the port of Dahae and Seokgwan Jeong, a breathtakingly beautiful pavilion. The ride takes about 40 minutes, and the full panoply of scenic views of Naju will be yours, including another pavilion named
2 3

TRAvEL DATALOGUE
How To GET THERE

Bus Take a bus for Yeongsanpo or Naju from Gangnam Express Bus Terminal in Seoul

Seoul

Train Take the train running from Yongsan Station in Seoul to Naju Station. Car 1. Take the Seohaean Expressway and follow the signs for Muan Interchange (Route 1), Hampyeong, Naju, and Yeongsanpo in order. 2. Take the Honam Expressway and follow the signs for Gwangsan Interchange (Route 13), Songjeong, Naju, and Yeongsanpo in order.

Naju

wHAT To EAT

Geumgang Jeong.

A restaurant serving delicious Naju gomtang Noan Jip stands on the street passing in front of Geumseong Gwan. It is 50 years old and has been run by the same family for three generations. The soup tastes especially light and clear because it is made from lean meat instead of the bones which are normally used for gomtang in other areas of the country. Side dishes include a bowl of rice, mugeunji (special kimchi), and kkakdugi (cubed daikon radish kimchi). (Tel.: 82-61-333-2053)

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29

fESTivAL

The scene under the flagging branches heavily laden with cherry blossoms bursting forth is otherworldly. More and more spring picnickers come out to experience the cherry blossoms with each passing year. In response, more local and municipal governments throughout the country are planting cherry trees in preparation for cherry blossom festivals. The best one of all is Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival, which started half a century ago. Cherry trees lining the streets of the Jungwon Intersection and other parts of Jinhae are readying themselves to welcome visitors from home and abroad from April 1 to 10 and celebrate the 50th anniversary of this unrivaled cherry blossom festival. At 6 p.m. on March 31, the eve of the festival, there will be a K-pop concert in the green square of the Jungwon Intersection. At 8 p.m. the next day, the festival will begin in spectacular fashion with a multimedia fireworks show over the sea off Jinhaeru, a pavilion built in 2006. During the festival, special lighting will be set up along the banks of Yeojwacheon, a brook that is called the Cherry Blossom Tunnel in spring, so that
1 3 1 Visitors arriving by train are greeted by a tunnel of cherry blossom trees. 2 On April 1, the festival will begin in spectacular fashion with a multimedia fireworks show over the sea off Jinhaeru. 3 There are many programs for foreign tourists at the Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival. 2

herry blossoms must be one of the most beautiful and alluring of spring flowers.

of Romance. It starts at Jinhae Parkland (the amusement park at the end of the tunnel into Jinhae) and ends at Jinhae Girls High School.
How To GET THERE
Car Take the Gyeongbu Expressway. Exit at the Gimcheon Interchange to get on the Jungbu Naeryuk Expressway toward Masan. Follow the signs for Machang Grand Bridge, the Yanggok Interchange, Jangbok Tunnel, and finally Jinhae. You may get off near the Jinhae Post Office or the Jungwon Intersection. Train Catch the KTX at Seoul Station and get off at Jinyeong Station. The train runs seven times a day. Bus Take the bus for Jinhae at Seoul Nambu Bus Terminal and get off at Jinhae Intercity Bus Terminal. The buses run 12 times a day.

people can enjoy the dazzling beauty of these messengers of spring. The City of Changwon, which was formed in July 2010 by the consolidation of the three neighboring cities of Changwon, Masan, and Jinhae, has arranged numerous events specifically for foreign tourists. The city seeks nothing less than to make Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival a global festival. There will even be activities to experience Korean culture and try Korean health foods. CHErrY BlOSSOmS, AlWAYS BEAUTIFUl Jinhae is small enough that you can reach
cooperation with Changwon City

If you want to take in the entire view of Jinhae, go to Jinhae Tower at the top of Jehwangsan Park. Located in the heart of Jinhae, the park has 365 steps, called one-year stairs. From Jinhae Tower, you will see Jinhae covered in light pink hues ensconced between the blue sea to the south and the hills and mountains to the north, east, and west. Cherry blossoms are beautiful not only on the branches, but also when they fall, elegantly dancing on the breeze until alighting on the soil below. Like spring, they burst into full bloom, creating a breathtaking scene, but they are soon gone. By the time the Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival ends on a festive note, the cherry trees will have shed all their intoxicating light pink glory and begin to put forth light green buds. Only then will we break the spell of springs charm and prepare to greet summer.
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Cherry Blossoms in Their Full Glory

Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival


The Jinhae Gunhang Cherry Blossom Festival marks its 50 th anniversary this spring as some 300,000 cherry trees come out in full bloom.
by Lee Jeong-eun / photographs by Moon Duck-gwan

almost every corner of it by foot. The beautiful bridge over Yeojwacheon, dubbed the Bridge of Romance since it was featured in the TV drama Romance, is also near downtown Jinhae. In fact, the entire 1.5-kilometer stretch of the Cherry Blossom Tunnel is also called the Bridge

30 korea 2012 april

NOW iN KOREA

WalK anD treK


by Kim Min-seon / photographs by Moon Duck-gwan

Along rivers and Seashores, Up mountains, and Past Fortresses


Of Koreas was four distinct seasons, spring may be the best season for walking and hiking, and the country is crisscrossed with wonderful footpaths and trails.

Jeju Olle Gil is especially attractive for its routes along the sea coast.

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33

apartment and goes up this hill. The view up there is really nice. After walking two to three hours, my mind and body feel lighter. It was on Bukhansan Dulle Gil, a series of hiking routes going around Bukhansan (Mt. Bukhan), where we encountered these two ladies, who were walking hard decked out in hiking clothing. It is not difficult to spot walkers like these in Seoul whether early in the morning or even late at night. Many people enjoy walking along the banks of the Hangang (the Han River, flowing through the heart of Seoul), or Namsan Ring Road (a circular route on Mt. Nam), or in
1 In the spring, the Slow Gil of Cheongsando is stunning with fields of barley and rape flowers. 2 Sign posts on the routes makes trekking easy.

walk this path with my daughter at least once a week. It passes behind my

of exercise. You dont need special skills or equipment. You only have to walk properly for an adequate amount of time. Simple though it may be, it effectively relieves daily stress and anxiety. JEJU OllE GIl, A WAlK AlONG COASTAl rOAdS ON JEJU ISlANd It was Jeju Olle Gil that made the Republic of Korea a nation of walkers. Jeju Olle Gil was formed in 2007 and has 18 routes. In the Jeju dialect, the term olle means a narrow path from your doorstep to the street. Walking Jeju Olle Gil is extremely romantic and inspirational as the routes generally run along the coast and pass close to tourist destinations near the seashore. The trails have few artificial touches and give you many different views of the exotic volcanic landscape of the island. There is also the unique local culture at every turndaily lives of the general public, the diving of the haenyeo (Jejus incredibly skilled female drivers with a long history), oreum (Jejus volcanic hills), and porous walls of natural basalt bricks. No wonder the Jeju Olle Gil paths have become a must-see (or must-walk, you could say) destination for tourists to Jeju. Some of them come to Jeju only to walk on the Jeju Olle Gil paths, and are hence called olle kkun (lit. maniac Olle walkers). The 18 routes of Jeju Olle Gil are connected as a single long trail that brings you around the entire island except some parts in the north. Walking one route takes five to seven hours, so it is recommended that you take only one route a day. Visitors need to be cautious of the weather in Jeju, however. Hallasan, which rises at the center of the island, and the surrounding sea together make the weather especially unpredictable, and it can be different in all four cardinal directions simultaneously. Keep an eye on the weather forecast for the parts of Jeju you want to explore every morning before you set out. For inquiries, you may contact the Jeju Olle Office at 82-64-762-2190 or visit its website at
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BUKHANSAN dUllE GIl OF SEOUl Bukhansan Dulle Gil goes around Bukhansan (Mt. Bukhan) and Dobongsan (Mt. Dobong) and runs a total distance of 71.8 kilometers over 21 sections. Walking each section generally takes one to two hours, and most of the walk is and at low elevation. Despite the low elevation, there are a number of lookouts that offer sweeping views of Seoul. Bukhansan Dulle Gil is connected here and there to climbing paths that lead to the top of Bukhansan. All are rather challenging, especially just below the peak. Sections 3, 4, and 21 are the most popular among walkers. Section 3 is called Huin Gureum Gil (lit. Path of White Clouds) and boasts fine views. Section 4, dubbed Solsaem Gil (lit. Path of Pine Springs), passes through clusters of wild flowers. There is a daily limit to the number of walkers allowed on Section 21, named Uiryeong Gil (lit. Path of Ui Hill). Uiryeong Gil of Section 21 is the only section of Bukhansan Dulle Gil that has a limit on the number of walkers permitted each day, which is 1,000. It runs for a total length of 6.8 kilometers, and the typical walking time is three and a half hours. The difficulty level is intermediate. It opened to the general public in July 2009. Access to the section had previously been restricted for more than 40 years, so the ecosystem is intact. The path is covered with sandy loam soil from weathered granite, so it is safe for walking even barefoot. It is recommended that you visit the information center before you take up the exciting challenge of trekking Bukhansan Dulle Gil. The Korea National Park Service offers a leaflet containing a map that indicates in detail what transportation is available, how difficult the sections are, and what each section is like. For more information, you may contact Eco Tours information center in Suyu at 82-2-9008086.
2

their neighborhoods. When spring arrives, the population becomes restless and yearns to go outside and walk again. Walking has its benefits as a form

popular reCommenDations
Slow Gil on Cheongsando
On Cheongsando, an island near the famous island of Wando in Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province), are walks lined by stone walls that are connected to form a single long trail. The island is the first place in Asia to be included on the list of slow cities by Cittaslow International. Slow Gil stretches 42.195 kilometers across 11 sections. The island will hold the 2012 Cheongsando Slow Walk Festival for the entire month of April. The island of Cheongsando is stunningly beautiful with its fields of sprouting green barley and blooming golden rape flowers.
For more information please call 82-61-550-5407 or visit the festival website at http://www.slowcitywando.com/eng/program.php or the official blog of Cheongsando at www.slowcitycheongsando.co.kr.

Dulle Gil of Jirisan


Jirisan (Mt. Jiri) is the most rugged mountain in South Korea, but the landscape of villages far down the ridge look more calm and peaceful than anywhere else in the country. Jirisan Dulle Gil at the base of the mountain runs more than 300 kilometers. It has 16 sections and connects over 80 villages of such cities as Namwon, Gurye, Hadong, Sancheong, and Hamyang in the three provinces of Jeollanamdo (South Jeolla Province), Jeollabuk-do (North Jeolla Province), and Gyeongsangnamdo (South Gyeongsang Province). The walk sometimes climbs up a slow ridge of Jirisan, passes by chili fields, and goes through the front yards of farmers houses.
For more information please contact the Inwol Center at 82-63-635-0850 or go to www.trail.or.kr.

Dasan olle Gil in Namyangju


Dasan Olle Gil in Namyangju is a path where history meets nature. You can find out-ofuse railroads, the banks of the Hangang (Han River), and villages all along Dasan Gil. It has eight sections now but will soon expand to 13. The most popular courses are Sections 1 and 2, called Hangang Naru Gil (lit. Hangang River Port Path) and Dasan Gil. To reach Hangang Naru Gil from Seoul, take Subway Line K1 and get off at Paldang Station. It is walking distance from the station. While hiking along Hangang Naru Gil, you can enjoy the scenery of the Hangang and pass through a railway tunnel that is now out of use.
For more information contact the Namyangju City Office at 82-31-590-2114.

www.jejuolle.org.

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35

ENTERTAiNMENT

Stars of the drama Full House became Hallyu stars after the dramas success.

One of the first romance comic-based television dramas was Full House. It was an adaption of the popular manhwa of the same title by Won Sooyeon. KBS aired the 16-episode drama series in the summer of 2004, and it was one of the mostviewed dramas that year. The original manhwa story is set in London where an aspiring script writer, Ellie Ji, meets the famous film actor, Ryder Bay, and stumbles into living together with him in a house called Full House built by Ellies late father. The drama was remade in a Korean setting where the heroine, Jieun, is played by actress Song Hye-kyo and the dashing movie star hero, Young-jae, is
Producers of Goong stayed true to the original characters of the comic book.

performed by actor and singer Rain. The casting of Koreas top stars, Song Hye-kyo and Rain, along with the popular source material caused a stir even before the first episode aired. After the dramas big success in Korea, it aired in China and Southeast Asia, and the two leading actors became Hallyu stars nearly overnight. Full House was remade into a drama in the Philippines also titled Full House, and there is also a remake in Vietnam. drAmAS WITH mESSAGES Television producers saw the potential of manhwa-based dramas, and they moved onto other genres of manhwa that were already established. Pretty soon, dramas started appearing on TV based on adult manhwa targeting men in their 30s, such as War of Money written and illustrated by Park In-kwon. The story is about a credit delinquent-turnedmoneylender who goes after the bank and loan sharks who killed his father. All ends well as he gets his revenge and the girl. The dark social issue addressed by the story is hardly the normal boy-meets-girl plot of previous popular manhwa-based dramas, but the high viewership ratings of War of Money proved to critics and audiences alike that manhwa with social messages can be great sources for television production, and paved the way for more socially conscious dramas onto television. A major advantage of manhwa is that it is a genre that is free from restrictions of time, place, and reality. Goong, also known as Princess Hours, is a popular manhwa made into a drama that led readers and audiences into a fantasy world of a

manHWa-BaseD Dramas

From Comic Book Pages to live-Action dramas


South Korean comic books, or manhwa, are becoming a popular source for new television dramas. The characters and stories are just too good to stay on the page. by Chung Da-young

Manwha illustration of Goong (left) and the dramas main casting (right).

plots and lively characters, and many were then adapted for live-action television dramas. When the dramas became hits, the stories even crossed over into movies and musicals. Manhwa no longer stays on the pages of comic books; it has become a celebrated source for Koreas pop culture. mANWHA, drAmA, ANd HAllYU So, why are drama adaptations of manhwa so popular? They are extremely promising
36 korea 2012 april

n the last ten years, popular manhwa have been increasingly recognized for their strong

since most of the original manhwa are popular romance comics. The typical manhwa love story involves a rich, handsome hero and a poor yet spirited heroine, and such a story has always been a popular setting for romance comics ever
cooperation with KBS and YBMedia

modern Korea still ruled by the constitutional


Sikgaek , or The Grand Chef , was another popular manhwa-based drama.

monarchy of the Joseon Dynasty. This manhwa combined the past and the future through fictional characters and plots, and the drama realized this fantasy into a live-action television opera that stayed true to the original work. The continued production of dramas based on manhwa proves their enduring popularity. In other words, drama is not created for the sake of drama; it is based on stories from novels or manhwa, which will eventually lead to the production of well-made television programs.
37

since the beloved Japanese manga Candy Candy series touched the hearts of young girls when it was first printed in 1975. Romance comics became a separate genre of manhwa, quickly gathering a huge following of teenage girls, and they have retained their enormous popularity through the years.

SPORTS

juDo

South Korean Judokas ready to Compete for Olympic Gold


The South Korean mens national judo team is perfecting their throwing techniques to win Olympic gold. by Chung Da-young / photographs by Kang Min-gu

udo made its very first appearance at the Summer Olympic Games in Tokyo in 1964.

Except for the 1968 Summer Olympic Games in Mexico City, it has been a competition sport in every Summer Olympics since. Korea won its first Olympic medal for judo in 1964, when Kim Eui-tae took the bronze medal in the mens 80kilogram middleweight division. Since then, Korea has clinched nine gold, 14 silver, and 14 bronze medals, ranking third in the Olympic medal standings. Following taekwondo, judo is one of the most popular martial arts in Korea. Olympic judo competitions always attract huge crowds of spectators anywhere throughout the world. Matches won by a last-minute throw send the crowd into rapturous excitement and are the most thrilling of dramas. KOREA met the South Korean mens national team and watched the next aspiring Olympic judoka stars in training. YOUNG JUdOKAS OF SOUTH KOrEA keeping the national team among the top competitors in the world of judo. The team is currently ranked number three after Japan and France. Japanese judokas have the skill, and French judokas are renowned for their strength. South Korean judokas do not match their skills or strength, but have managed to stay near the top of the rankings by sheer determination. We have devised new training tactics and practices over the last few years, adds Coach Jung. Since the 2008 Beijing Olympic Games, the South Korean mens national team has won 70 percent of the international tournaments they have competed in. Based on the world rankings, which were updated after the Judo World Cup in Budapest last February, the mens national team secured slots in all seven weight divisions for the London Olympics. The team no longer feels the pressure of having to qualify for the Olympic Games. Instead, individual team members must now face the challenge of having to compete against fellow teammates in the upcoming national trials to win a ticket to the London Olympic Games. Two Olympic gold medalist prospects in mens judo are former world champion Wang Ki-chun in the 73-kilogram division and current world number one Kim Jae-bum in the 81kilogram division. They both won silver medals in the 2008 Olympics, but they are resolved to bring home Olympic gold this year.
OUR JUDOKAS ARE READY
Coach Jung Hun of the Korean mens national judo team The team is going to Japan for spring training in early April. The members will hopefully be in top shape to fight in the national trials later this month so that we will see new stars. Wang Ki-chun (left) practices new moves with a student.

KOREA visited Yong In University in Gyeonggido (Gyeonggi Province), south of Seoul, where the mens national team was training. The judo training center at the College of Martial Arts was already filled with an army of students from the Judo Department dressed in blue judo uniforms, warming up for the days practice. Among the sea of blue, the national team athletes were readily visible in their white uniforms partnering up with the students. Yong In University is the only South Korean university that has an undergraduate judo department. Among the alumni are Olympic medalists and other international competition winners, making the university the most prestigious institution for Korean judo. Every day, the national team comes here to practice break falls and throwing skills with the students, says Coach Jung Hun. These Yong In University students are among the best judokas in Korea, and they make good partners for our national team. Some of the students here may be future judo stars. Coach Jung says the rigorous training and national tournaments are a major factor in
38 korea 2012 april

39

GLOBAL KOREA

support projects in 13 countries in 2009, another 15 projects in ten countries in 2010, and ten projects in ten countries in 2011. More than 190 experts were sent to over 20 organizations such as international agencies, colleges, and research institutes in 15 countries including Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia. AId IN SCIENCE ANd TECHNOlOGY FOr TEN COUNTrIES IN 2011 In 2009, the South Korean government provided support for a preliminary feasibility study for the construction of a new college complex jointly being pursued by Sungkyunkwan University of South Korea and Hanoi University of Pharmacy of Vietnam. Based on the outcome of the research, they were able to receive financial support from the Economic Development Cooperation Fund (EDCF), which was founded
1

of South Korea leads the project, sending seven professors and two teaching assistants in physics, chemistry, and life sciences to teach students in eight subjects and train Cambodian professors in teaching methods. Mongolia is one of the few countries in the world where nature and natural resources are especially well preserved. However, the country seriously lacks the water required to build and improve social infrastructure. This situation prompted
3 1 Sogang University sent seven professors to the Royal University of Phnom Penh in Cambodia. 2 Participants at the KoreaMongolia International Cooperation Seminar 3 Researchers are tasting for underground water in Africa. 2

in 1987 by the South Korean government to bolster the economic growth of less developed countries around the world. In 2011, the BEAR (Better Education for Africas Rise) project was initiated for the five Sub-Saharan countries of Malawi, Zambia, Botswana, Namibia, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. It provides Korean-style secondary technical and vocational training and education. This is an official development assistance (ODA) program implemented using a special fund provided by South Korea to UNESCO for training and education in less developed countries since 2003. Tapping into the

Korea Extends Education Aid in Science and Technology


The Republic of Korea may lack much in the way of natural resources, but it has still managed to achieve phenomenal economic growth in a short period of time. The country joined the OECD Development Assistance Committee (DAC) in 2009 and has since assumed leadership in science and technology for less developed countries. by Kim Min-seon

Yonsei University to participate in Mongolias project to train professionals to better secure and manage water resources. The Korea National Research Resource Center (KNRRC) signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) for cooperation in biological resources with the Tanzania Wildlife Research Institute (TAWIRI). Under the MOU, researchers from TAWIRI come to Korea to learn techniques for collecting and preserving parasites while researchers from the KNRRC go to Tanzania where they develop techniques to fight diseases spread by germs and parasites using biological resources that do not exist in Korea. The South Korean government recently decided to increase the countrys ODA from 0.13 percent of the gross national income (GNI) to 0.25 percent. The Ministry of Education, Science and Technology set a strategy for international cooperation in education and science and technology and hammered out a plan to provide better ODA in those fields. The superb human resources of the country will continue to serve at colleges and research institutes as faculty members and researchers to help the seeds of science and technology take firm root there.

in science and technology. The International Institute for Management and Development in Geneva, Switzerland (better known as IMD), ranked South Korea fifth in scientific infrastructure, 11th in paper publication in

countries in the world back in 1950, when the Korean War broke out, but only 60 years later, it has already become a major donor of foreign aid. One of the key factors in the countrys success has certainly been education. This explains why so many less developed countries around the world intend to study South Koreas effective educational system along with its experience in economic development. The South Korean Ministry of Education, Science and Technology has provided support for less developed countries, carrying out 15

photographs provided by Ministry of Education, Science and Technology

he Republic of Korea is considered to be on equal footing with advanced countries

OECD Development Assistance Committee (DAC) in 2009. It was one of the poorest

expertise of international organizations as well as Koreas, the project has garnered good results and has been well received by the African countries. Last February, two laboratories were established in Cambodia at the Royal University of Phnom Penh, where Korean-style physics and biology education programs were implemented. For these laboratories, dubbed Friendship Laboratories, the South Korean Ministry of Education, Science and Technology provides support through the Korea Techno Peace Corps (TPC) program, which is the countrys representative ODA business. Sogang University

journals, and fourth in patent registration. In addition, South Korea is ranked fifth in nuclear technology, and it developed the KSTAR (Korea Superconducting Tokamak Advanced Research), the worlds first superconducting magnetic fusion facility. South Korea became the
40 korea 2012 april

24th

member of the

41

SPECiAL iSSUE

expo 2012 Yeosu Korea


A Truly Global Festival
by Kim Min-seon

Yeosu, a city on a peninsula and archipelago of 365 islets in Jeollanam-do, will host the 2012 World Expo from May 12 to August 12. The International Exposition Yeosu Korea 2012, abbreviated as Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea, will be a global festival of 106 countries. The expo will not only be about the sea but will also take place directly on the sea.

he Living Ocean and Coast! This is the main theme of Expo

What makes Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea unique? There have been other world expos about the sea including the 1998 Lisbon World Exposition in Portugal and Expo Zaragoza 2008 in Spain, but Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea will be the first one that is not only about the sea, but it also takes place on the sea. The entire expo site is on and along the sea, Odongdo (Odong Island), and a long stretch of seashore. The Theme Pavilion will help you develop affinity for the sea through a story about a dugong (a large sea
Chairman Kang Dong-suk of the Organizing Committee of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea 1 Aerial view of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea. 2 Outside the 57-meter Sky Tower is an enormous pipe organ shaped like a harp. 3 The EXPOs world-class, cutting-edge integrated information system provides services in real time and helps visitors enjoy each program with speed and comfort. 4 Digital Gallery of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea. 1

2012 Yeosu Korea. It will run for 93 days in and around the new Port of Yeosu in Jeollanam-do (South Jeolla Province). Visitors will learn a great deal about the sea from many different kinds of exhibits including those of the Theme Pavilion (the worlds firstever offshore exhibition facility) and the International Pavilions (that is, individual national and joint national pavilions of 106 countries), as well as a variety of experiential facilities, and Koreas largest aquarium. Fifty countries including the US, France, China, and Japan will have their own individual exhibits, and each of the other 56 countries will participate in one of three joint exhibitions about the ocean they belong to: the Atlantic, Pacific, or Indian Ocean. A crew from KOREA met Chairman Kang Dong-suk of the Organizing Committee of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea amid the rush of final preparations before the opening of the expo, now less than 50 days away. Please tell us about the meaning of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea. Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea will be one of the largest international events ever hosted by the Republic of Korea. It will be comparable to the 1988 Seoul Olympic Games, the 2002 FIFA World Cup, and the 1993 Daejeon World Expo. It is essential to preserve the sea and coasts for posteritynear or farthat everyone may lead pleasant and affluent lives. Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea is going to help the world understand the importance and roles of the sea and coasts and the need to preserve them, call on the international community to use the sea more wisely, and provide a new paradigm regarding the sea.

mammal) and a boy. At the Climate and Environment Pavilion, you will experience how it would feel five minutes before the Earth meets its glaciers. Facilities using new and renewable energy sources including the Energy Park (online electronic buses) and the Korea Pavilion (hydrogen fuel cells) will also be very notable as they employ cutting-edge technology. Academic conferences by such international organizations as the FAO and the OECD, as well as the Yeosu Declaration adopted by the participating countries, will help the international community form a shared understanding about the
photographs provided by the Organizing Committee of Expo 2012 Yeosu Korea

final moment due to the thawing of the

42 korea 2012 april

43

fLAvOR

effective preservation and wise use of the sea. What are some must-see facilities that you recommend for our foreign tourists? There are many fascinating facilities. They can be broadly divided into two groups: the four special facilities of the Big-O (a waterfront stage),

Expo Digital Gallery, Sky Tower, and Marine Life Pavilion (an aquarium) and 76 exhibition facilities (six of the host country, 67 interactive exhibition facilities, and three experiential exhibition facilities). The four special facilities will be maintained permanently, and I consider them must-see places for foreign tourists. The Big-O is a facility on the

sea. It was built by connecting the breakwater off the new Port of Yeosu to the peninsula. It looks like the letter O, and it is 43 meters in diameter. It has a gigantic offshore fountain and an offshore stage called Ieodo that submerges and resurfaces during performances. The Expo Digital Gallery is a huge LED panel display of marine culture on the ceiling that goes across the International Pavilions. It has the worlds highest resolution. At 57 meters, Sky Tower is the tallest structure at the expo site. It is a cultural space made out of used silos. Outside the tower is an enormous pipe organ in the shape of a harp. In the Marine Life Pavilion, Koreas largest aquarium, you can see more than 34,000 marine creatures. Yeosu is the southernmost port city of the Korean Peninsula. Tell us whats so special about Yeosu. Yeosu is the heart of the southern coast of the Korean Peninsula. For a long time, it was a cultural center where continental civilization and marine civilizationrepresented by Korea, China, Japan, and Taiwanmet. It has world famous mud flats, excellent port facilities, and a major industrial complex and it is part of Dadohae Haesang National Park (an offshore national park with many beautiful islets and islands). Its coastline beautifully meanders, and the waters are dotted by the archipelago of 365 islets. Odongdo (an islet connected to the expo site), Hyangiram (lit. Hermitage Facing the Rising Sun; built by Great Monk Wonhyo in 644), and Yeojaman Gaetbeol (lit. Yeoja Bay Mud Flat) are also famous. Id also like to recommend the fresh seafood that we have to offer.
45

Bom Namul,

tourist information
Attractions of Yeosu
Detailed information on tourist destinations, transportation, accommodations, and restaurants is available at ystour.kr, a site run by Yeosu City, in Korean, English, Chinese, Japanese, and French.

Spring Seasoned vegetables


Bom namul, or seasoned spring vegetables and herbs, is a popular Korean side dish during the early months of the year. The main ingredients are edible wild greens, herbs, and roots. They are full of vitamins and minerals including calcium and ironeverything the body needs to revitalize after the long, cold winter. From top to bottom: naengi namul (shepherds purse greens), bangpung namul (Saposhnikovia divaricata), dureup namul (fatsia shoots), chwi namul (aster scaber)
by Chung Da-young photographs by Moon Duk-gwan food & styling by Kim Young-bin assistance by Noh Shin-young

odongdo (odong Island)


Odongdo is an island that is almost synonymous with Yeosu. It is connected to the peninsula by a long breakwater. From a distance, this islet looks like a leaf of the Paulownia coreana , called odong in Korean, hence its name is Odongdo. On the island is a square where you can see reconstructions of the famed warships called Geobukseon (turtle ship) and Panokseon (a board roofed warship), which were used by Admiral Yi Sun-sin (1545-1598) in a series of stunning naval victories. There are four paths leading to the lighthouse of Odongdo, each of which has its own character and ambiance.

Jinnam Gwan
Jinnam Gwan was built in 1599 (rebuilt in 1718 after a fire) as a guesthouse of the navy command of western Jeolla during the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910). It is the largest extant local government building from the period. It has special historical meaning in that it was used as the headquarters of the naval force under the command of Admiral Yi Sun-sin during the Imjin Waeran (Japanese invasions of Korea from 1592 to 1598). A stone statue in the form of a seal stands in the yard of Jinnam Gwan. It was meant to be a decoy to make the enemy believe that a person was standing there.

Transportation
Train Take the KTX Jeolla Line train at Yongsan Station in Seoul and get off at Yeosu Expo Station. It runs five times a day and takes roughly two hours and 57 minutes. Bus A bus runs between Seoul and Yeosu every 50 minutes and takes approximately four hours and ten minutes. Air Flights are available to Yeosu from Gimpo near Seoul, as well as Pohang and Jeju. The Flights from Gimpo to Yeosu take about 55 minutes, and the first flight of the day departs Gimpo at 7:55 a.m. Car If you depart from Seoul City Hall, it will take three hours and 55 minutes. Follow the signs for Cheonan, Nonsan, Iksan, Wanju, and Dongsuncheon Interchange in that order.

Ticket Reservation
Expo tickets can be purchased from www.expo2012.kr at a five-percent discount until the end of April (Adult: KRW 31,500 or approx. USD 30). Tickets are also sold by Interpark at www.interpark.com and the call center of the Industrial Bank of Korea at 82-1566-2566. It is strongly recommended to book tickets in advance.

44 korea 2012 april

MY KOREA

Korean HYpermarts
Whats the Hype?
by Lisa Puckett / illustrations by Mira Park

A trip to South Koreas hypermart is more than just your average grocery shopping trip. You will be pleasantly surprised to find quality Chilean wine, delicious ready-made pizzas, and plush duvets all for a great deal.

loud, military-esque voice was yelling firmly through a loud speaker connected to a moving vehicle. Having little to no knowledge of Korean vocabulary or the current state of affairs, my imagination was left to its worst. I thought I was caught in the middle of a military drill and felt completely ignorant lying in bed in my fuzzy white pajamas. Stunned, I quickly dialed the Korean employee who had the unfortunate responsibility of being at my beck and call for any emergencies. In a solemn manner I explained to her the situation only to be disappointed by the silence on the other end, followed by giggles. In the midst of my mental chaos, I was actually considering what I would do if explosions suddenly appeared in the sky.
. . What did

remember one of the first mornings in Seoul waking up completely terrified. A

journey began. All in all, I can summarize five things that impressed or surprised me specific to Korean hypermarts. My first impression was how convenient everything was. Right before the entrance was a set of lockers to store extra bags, coats, and dogs? Its true. There were even dog lockers with air slots and gridded floors for doggie bathroom breaks. GeniUS Would I like a place to store my heavy bags (or dog) from hours of previous shopping? Yes, please! Even shopping carts were more convenient. After popping in a 100 won coin to get a cart, you are free to push it right up to the street to grab a cab or to return it to the cart rack for a 100 won refund. I love the bowing greeting of Koreans so I had high hopes as two well-groomed employees greeted me upon entrance. I sighed with relief as I was far from loud speakers and drive-bys, but I sighed too soon. On a Saturday, E-mart is practically synonymous to a warzone. Go during the week. Tip: remain firm on your goal and do not get visually distracted. If you do, soon a whole club of housewives will be eating up the delicious fried dumplings and, well, who wouldnt take that personally? That leads us to the second great quality of hypermarts: food samples.
47

that mean? Air drill? Is someone coming? To my embarrassment, the employee answered, The sweet potatoes have come. That day, I suppose a bomb of sorts did explode after all. Is that how Koreans buy ALL produce? Soon after, I was explained to about the existence of Korean supermarket-department stores, or hypermarts, and was I relieved. They were described to be much like the one-stop shops we have in the States like Walmart and Target, except with names like Homeplus, Lotte Mart, or E-mart. Most hypermarts are within walking distance of a subway station, but there are a few, such as the one near me that is best accessed by cab or local bUS I chose the one closest to my vicinity and the grocery-shopping
46 korea 2012 april

what you are looking for at very decent prices. The fourth great quality about Korean hypermarts is for the ladies. The beauty section is a lovely time. You will find that many of the major Korean brands have set up little stands with employees eager to help and give out tons of samples. If anything, you may need to smile and say No, thank you, as Korean employees have a tendency to follow their customers. If you are in no rush, take a wander through the aisles and freely try the newest products. The sales are also really great as there are many 1+1 deals and packaged sets for even more savings. Maybe you dont need that extra sun lotion or BB cream now, but it was such a great deal and will for sure come in handy later! Similar to a trip to Costco, it is best to leave a bit of room in your stomach for some sample tasting. As a foreigner, this is especially helpful as there are many unfamiliar dishes with unheard of ingredients. If anything were to tickle the taste buds, the samples are usually part of a promotion, which includes a special deal. More hungry than you thought? Thankfully, there is a ready-made food section where shoppers can pull over for an order of tteokbokki (a spicy rice cake dish), which I recommend washing down with sikhye (a sweet, chilled rice drink). Of course, there are ready-made pizza, chicken, and other foreign dishes, in case you are not up for the challenge. Tip: if you go late in the evening, past dinner time, almost everything is discounted. The next point highlights products of another taste. When looking for dcor or home goods, hypermarts have incredible deals and, very important, good design. It is fun to stop by a local store or market to pick up a blanket, a table, or some stove ware, and I do encourage
ABOUT THE WRiTER LiSA PUCKETT
Lisa Puckett is an American from Washington DC who has spent four life-changing years in South Korea. When she isnt teaching parttime, you can catch her at the studio or on stage as a back-up singer. She enjoys drinking tea, going on walks, and living up every moment of her Korean experience.

Leading up to the final impressive point about Korean marts, I adore the foreign foods section, and not just because it reminds me of home. Being from the States, my mental picture of the foreign foods section was strictly Asian, but being in Asia, the foreign foods section is a palette opener. You will surely find a random plethora of North American products, but to my delight, you will also find chocolates and gummies from Germany, spices and sauces from India, coffee from South Africa, and the list goes on. Just the other day, I picked up a frozen bag of authentic Italian gnocchi for just 4,000 won. Not bad at all. To top it all off, the wine selection is remarkable. You could easily spend 30 minutes in the wine section alone, finding a bottle from practically every wine-producing country on the racks. If you have no idea what will go delightfully with your dinner plans, there is usually a trained staff member nearby who will gladly recommend a bottle or two. Adding up the time it takes to make your way around the store, hypermart shopping is a commitment. In fact, it could easily be the event of the day. For this reason, I recommend going with a friend. Make sure you go with energy to spare and room for surprises. You are bound to have a bad shopping day when you cant seem to find what you want, but just keep smiling and take a look around. Things are constantly changing and it is always for the better.

supporting local businesses, but unfortunately, chances are the colors and patterns will blind your foreign eyes with hot pinks and gigantic flowers. I remember spending three months trying to find a simple white down comforter. Let me save you some time: start your search at a hypermart. If you want simple, modern, elegant, even organic, the hypermarts will have

48 korea 2012 april

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