Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Barel Machine
by Gerald R. Hunter
Georgia
There are several gunshops in this country which can
turn out an excellent rifle barrel or rechoke a shotgun
tube to your preferred percentage, but for many muzzle
loaders this is not enough. It wasn't enough for me, when
I bought bucketful of flintlock parts from Dixie Gun
Works, induding an unrifled barrel blank.
Of course, many a muzzleloader who would give his
eyeteeth to be shooting a rifle barrel he had built himself,
may be well heeled, but there are also many poverty
stricken ones who cannot afford such custom work. The
barrel machine described and pictured here, of my own
design, is versatile, accurate, minimal in cost, and small
enough to fit into the tiniest home workshop.
Among the many operations which can be performed
on the device are rifling, overboring, finish reaming to
land size, chambering, throating and muzzle-relieving of
rifle barrels, as well as choke cutting, chambering, lap
ping and polishing of shotgun bores.
The rifling rig cuts any number of grooves from I to 12
(including the awkward 7 and II) and any pitch from I
turn in I foot to infinity in a straight twist (and with U
arched cam bar, the gain twist).
While the device could be used for deep-hole drlg in
solid blanks, it is intended for overboring shot-out rifle bar
rels, or increasing the bore size of useless calibers to larger
conversions like . 357 and .4 magnum, or muz eloaders.
The same unit that does the borng is utilized also for finish
reaming after the borng, preparator to rifljng. In smooth
bore barrels it can be used to remove pitting when thickness
of barrel walls allows, to ream out choke, and to rechamber.
This same unit is used for all work on rifle barrels except for
lapping and cutting the liOing. Shotgun bore work is done
on the third unit of the device.
A single motor transmits power through a series of V-belts
and pulleys to operate the devices at proper relative speeds.
the rifling head is hand-operated, as is the shotgun barrel
carriage_ The barrel boring carriage may be hand-operated
or powered by cables, pulleys and weights.
Overall size of the composite machine is only 24 I wide
by 42' high by 96" long, but it could be smaUer. The ri
fling platform may be swung out about 450 during the
brief time when actual ri fling is being done, to make it
more comfortable for the operator, and also so the cam
bar (which determines twist) has additional room when
severe rates of twist are being cut.
Expense "f the machine can vary widely. For instance,
the .frame can be made of welded I-beams; expensive
thrust bearings can take the loads; highly tempered rack
and pinion gears can turn the cutter rod, and so on, to a
very staggering figure. To shave costs severely without
sacrificing efficiency, my machine is constructed from
materials you would classify as junk. It cost less than $50,
excluding the motor.
The most important ingredient is the entire operation is
that of proper perspective. You must first understand
just what you are doing, what the parts of the machine
are to do, and how you are going to make the machine do
them. Once you have this' 'big picture" you are in a posi
tion to economize most on construction.
Few of the tolerances are critical. You can vary the di
meions of the parts to fit whatever supply of materials
you can acquire at least cost. If you can find a cam bar of
somewhat different thickness than specified, for in
stance, at a substantially cheaper cost, by all means sub
stitute it. Further savings can be effected by utilizing used
materials. Superficial rust on a rail or bar from a scrap
yard may make that material available for JO per pound
instead of several dollars per pound for some newly al
loyed metals, either of which would do the job. In the
case of rods, use hot or cold rolled steel instead of drill
rod, at vast savings. For the hollow boring rods, use
seamless steel tubing instead of the more expensive air
craft qUality. For chucks, borrow those already on hand
fr
c.
m some of your other appliances or machines.
To begin a[ual construction of the machine, cut the
Act;urau indexing of the r barrd vcm be done by using
a compo
llnd
bubble protractor temporaily ci1ped to pipe that w
be the vise,
Compltlld r/ling barrel vlst. insldt Induing head.
4x4's to Ingth for the main frame, then the 2x2's for the
scondary part. Mortise the joints Or half-lap them. and
as you join the parts apply glue, true them with a square,
clamp them, drill pilot holes, and bolt or screw them to
gether. Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before proceed
ing farther. The machine will be subject to vibration,
which will wreck your structure unless it is soundly made.
Do not permanently install th bed for the lapping!
choking device until you have found, by actual xperi
ment, where it must go to align properly with the chuck.
Rifling
Rig
B
e
gn with the platform, a 2 7 10 7 96 inch straight,
we
ll
seasoned plank, and bolt or screw the tracks on one end of
it. Any track that is substantial and reasonably true wldo.
Make up the carriage block; and rabbet, dado, or oth
erwise, make it a clean sliding fit in the channels of the
track. Length must be provided to give room for the pi
nion gear, rack gear bar, bearings and hand grip.
The ball bearings (roIler skate wheels) must be firmly
bolted to the carriage with V-straps, or something simi
lar. Between the bearings, at right angle, bolt the chan
nel iron guide for the rck gear. The rack gear isa bicycle
chain bolted to a flat steel bar that will slide snugly in the
greased guide channel.
Anchor the rack gear to the rack gear bar with a stout
machine screw at either end, for the bicycle chain must be
very taut. The rack should be long enough to all ow two
! more complete revolutions of the pinion gear (a bicycle
rear sprocket) when assembled and meshed.
The largest rod that will pass through the hole in the
sprocket acts as the pinion axle. Turn down ends of the
rod to fit through each bearing (the skate wheels), leaving
shoulders turned on the rod as natural end stops, and
braze the rod true in the sprocket. Before assembling the
ale, adapt the longer end of it to hold the rifling rod. A
common threaded joint, which allows twisting, wiII not
suffice. You can cut a lap-and-hook joint, held together
with a movable sleeve. or a small chuck.
Assemble the sprocket-mounted axle into the bearings,
mesh sprocket with the rack gear, then bolt down the
bearing housings.
Camming
The cam bar, by the angle it forms with the spacing bar,
determines the bore distance per revolution of pitch to be
cut, and must be four feet long if you want to cut barrels up
to 42". This proportion may be used for shorter lengths. The
pivot end is attached to the platform with a bolt; the opera
tor's end is anchored to the spacing bar with any movable
device which wlsecurely hold it to the index. Dogleg bends
raise the cam and spacing bars up to the level of the rack gear
guide so they'll operate in the same plane.
The cam end of the rack is drilled to accept two bolts.
A short under bar, 8" long, is drilled and mated to that
end of the cam bar, and a ball bearing skate wheel i s per
manently bolted under the rack bar and inside the cam
bar. The outer holes are elongated to allow adjustment
(fast twists cramp the cam), and a second skate wheel is
mounted on a wing nut adjustment bolt through the
routed holes. The skate wheels must embrace and snugly
roll along the cam bar; the wing nut adjustment is neces
sary because the space between the wheels increases as the
. .. OilLinc
::
-
_
.
O
il
S
e
a
!
Healing
TranSrerpulle)
.
___
_
I
f --_." DrivcPulley
Drive. ______ " .
-
Mandrel. ______ __
Chuck. ___________ --
Track. ____ ____ ---
Skate Whed ___ _ _
Carriage_________
-3"
Frame _________ ._
. _ . __ Chuck
_. __ Track
____ , ... Oil Pan
_ _ ___ .. Barre
l
Vise
___ ._Ca
riage
BORE RA LAP
R0nRod_
` .
3mct
.
_
_
Chuck.
Skate WhcI
Pinion Gear
,
,
:, :.
Handle PuIl
,
,
Lzrtiayc
`
Handle "
`~-
.^
Pict
Bolt
*
Platrorm
Ballc\Vis
.
*
,5:opCcIIat
_~,
'
. lode.ingHead
..
,/:.
Inde.
Pn
<:
^
M
ount
H1LH
SetScrews
Cam 83r Pvct
CamTar
5katcWhccI
AdJutment
stop collar for
s with
_
the cutter, and so on.
In iing, after you cfamp the barrel in the vise, you
damp the cuUer rod in the chuck, run it through the bar
rel so it comes out the far side, screw the cutter head to it
and crosspin the cutter so t won't unscrew. Put a shim
(common brown paper is about .UU3" under the elev, tor,
squirt culting oil in the bore, and pull one pass. Rem' ove
the shim, push the rod back through the bore, rotate the
barrel one hole, and rcpeat. When you have finished all
grooves (or however many you wish to index), add an
other thickness of papcr (or whatever) under the first
shim, and repeat the cutting process. Usually this is done
four times, for a groove depth of .Oll". Push a tight
patch through the finished rined bore; if it i s too rough,
lap it smooth with a poured lead slug and valve grinding
compound, or a grit of your choice.
To operate the lapping/polishing devce, clamp the gun
barrel flT y in the carriage, so the bore lines up with the rod
held in the chuck. Hold the carriagejirmly .. . . ith both hands
or the torque may take I! away from you and make a gand
mes. To leave both hands free, it Vbest to install a motor
s"itth that you can K with a motion o your X=. T Y
diameter longer than the n Dattc should be hacksawed
sptit about thIee inches at the working end to accept a wind
D of emery cloth. T more slender rod may whip and be
dangerous - even fatal -- as it revolves without a center rest.
The emery cloth should be wound to follow the diection of
the turg rod. It should be as tight as you can comfortably
control; a backing of a piece of bicycle inner tube W pro
vide the fit and also allow nexibility. Cutting oil should 0
squirted into the bore and onto the emery cloth, and the
emery slowly fitted to start into the bore. With hand pre
sure, the cloth is passed back and forth slowly through the
bore. Tfiner grit should be used lofinish the job. Never Jet
the turg rod stop with the emery doth in the DCIc.
In using the drilling device, or the reamer, also do not
let the culler stop in the Dutc.hcdrill or reamer is Qf0
Detail of all comer joints. Frame is of finished 2x4's, which of course
actually measure q 0 I, Longitudinal members are through boiled to
upright Unon; cross members extend across tenon and upright and are
0screwed
into logitudinal member. All joints, before fnal
takeup of
the bolts and screws, are glued with eXlerlor Weldwood glue, available
i small amounts/rom almost any hardware store or craft shop.
All other wooden connections are simple lap joints secured with double
through bolts and glue.
No'e of the dimensions aTe critical. They may be varied, depending
upon materials a'ailabJe to whomever is constructing the machine.
pelled by a gravi!y weight, through a pulley; l it balks
add a DIof propulsion by hand but never force it rapi0ly:
Barrel Machine--Materials required
Frame
lineal feet 4 x 4" lumber (mlin frame); 28 lineal feet
2" x 2" lumber (secondary frame); 24 !\Bc t0I Z"Xb"
lumber (main platforms); 1V square feet of flooring; 4
square feel of Zmaterial (for motor mount) I pint glue;
machine bolts, or lagscrews, with washers, to pin joints.
Rifling Rig
Jmk
8|Otm- WC00XZX (included in frame above);
Tracks - preferably steel, two 5 ' sections of channel iron
(old garage door hanger tracks will do).
u06u_Head
Indexing sleeve - iron p;pe "to Ilong, Z Y" , Stop
collars - 2" sections of above piece of pipe; Stop collar set
screws - 1 ar setscrews in each collar; Induing sleeve
mount-wood, l' x 4" x 4"; Barrel vise - iron pipe longer
than sleeve, 2 7 LL, Barrel vise lock screws - two sets
of Out opposed machine screws; Indexing stop - sma!!
tapered eel pin to match index holes.
l0Inuex
Cam bar - iron, 54" x I Y" x */t, L3 bar pivot - short'
V`section cut from same stock, plus bolI; Spacing bar -
iron, 42", cuI from same stock; Spacing bar pivot - bolt,
through DatinlO platform.
RifiiD&Head
Rifling rod(s) - slightly under bore size(s); Riins rod
chuck - simple lap CuIjoint plus steel sleeve Jock; Rifling
rod cutter * steel rod, length and diameter to suit; Rifling
CuItct
-
"7t" piece of old file, lathe Dit, elc.
Carriage
Carriage block - wood, 12" x 6" x 2";
Carage gips - wood, 20" x 3" X I";
Thrust bearings - two ball bearing
roller skate wheels; Bearings mounts -
bent iron straps, bolted down; Rack
gear - bicycle chain securely screwed to
rack gear bar; Rack gear ba - iron,
42" x 1 Y" x Y 1; Ca roller bar - 8"
section of same stock; Ca roller
bolts - short bolts to fasten skate
wheel s to ca bar; Rack gear bar
guide - channel iron, slip fit for bar;
Pinion geai - rear sprocket from bicy
cle, matched to chain; Pinion gear
shaft - shaft through pinion and bear
ings, 6" long.
M0IB@~ M88D1D@
Power pulley - standard V, 10 di
ameter, ! II bore; Drive belt - stan
dard V to match, 40 I length; Shaft
hollow seamless steel tube ! NOD,
12" long; Bearings - matches pair
standard mounted ball bearings, YII
bore; Oil tank - I, 3, or 5 gallon can
(for cutting oil); Oil feeder line -
standard
t
/8" copper tubing 36"
long, with cock; Oil seal - neoprene
or vinyl button between shaft and
line; Oil pan - strip of galvanized
roofing (flashing) 96" X 12 "; Oil
sump - small tin cup, plus filter ma
terial; Track - inverted channel iron
60" x 2"; Track bolts - four anchor
bolts hold track to bed.
Carriage
Barrel vise - iron pipe 24" X 2" 1,
plus lock machine screws; Carriage
block - wood, 18" X 2 VI" 7, Car
riage guide - iron straps, screwed to
block
-
; Boring bars - hollow steel,
length and diameter to suit; Cutters
_ bits, reamers to suit, machine or
handmade; Chuck - stout 3-jaw,
centerless, to accept t" slock; Oil
seal- neoprene or vinyl washer to fit
inside chuck against heel.
pggn_- 1D0XD@
Power pulley - standard V, 6", with
y"D0f8, Transmission pulley - stan
dard V, 2", Ybore; Main drive belt
standard V, , Bearing unit -
standard bal bearing mandrel, DE
V " shaft; Chuck - cheap hand tight
3-jaw to take VI" stock; Track - wood,
84" X2" X 7; Carriage - two wooden
boards 16 I x 4 ; clamp bolts to grp
barrel between boards, 9 skate wheels;
Carrage stops - wooden pegs, spaced
Htrack as work requires; Lapping rod
- steel, maximum diameter to suit bore
and job; Cutters - wound emery cloth,
abrasive coated felt bobs, or automo
tive brake cylinder hone.
Power
. Motor - heavy duty 3/ or 1 h.p., 220
volts, 1750 RPM preferred; Motor
pulley - standard V. 3 ' diameter, to ft
motor shaft; Motor mount - wood (in
cluded in frame materals); Motor
switch - foot or knee switch, for emer
gency cutoff.
Miscellaneous
Cutting oil - at least 1 @alon; Do not
Uf lubrcating oil to cut; Hardware -
asorment of bolts. Jag screws, D
chine screws as neeed; Pat - vyl,
epoxy or
p
olyeurethane enamel wil
hel
p
keep machine easy to clean, and
wl
p
rotect against oi l rot; Solder - for
oil
p
an and sump.
`''=9^".i,, Ih. -0'1'''1' f"r r;rIi,, II ,.,,,,,, \,,,,I
h
., _,,, ,
"
II". b:..l:."hid"II,,.II
'
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h
Il
n".r "r,;.", .
.
i tI. .,,t,..(,(; . ,I . -,.
,
. i_ 1'"II,oJ ,,
1
""1'
L |. Kuehn, obcve, rifling 0 muule.loodu, borrel with equipment
and tool. of hi. Own de.ign ond moovtoct,, righ', onorher viow
|'he home'mode rifling equipmen'. Skill olld pu'ie"ce o-
o 'equired
on atloching 'he wooden .plin". '0 'he cylinde . It 'qu"e teom
ing
ond
bending
:bio .triPI o( o, oo@ ollaching
wi,h ,crew .
At top, above, two views of rifing heads.
Under the scale is a wedge for adjust
Ing the cutters; second from the bottom
Is a foat used for clearing the barrel of
the old rifing; at bottom is an adjust
ing device. Right, close-up view of the
head of the rifling guide, the index
boards and their method of attachment.
Uniform TwIst Rllllng
Study the diagra on lhe lefl Jfyou want to
make a rifling cyUnder that has one tum
36, you c start with a cylinder that m36
long where lhe grooves a to be cut. A0c-
Ible metal wire Is attachcd to one end of the
wooden cylinder at poInt l. It Is then stretched
Sllnght away from the cylinder to a point tmt
Is equal to the circumference {dIstance around
lhe cylinder!. poim2 From point 2the WIre
Is stretched to i poInt l3mathe other end
of tie cylinder mat Ise.nctly 36from point .
It Is best 1the cyUnder tslying flat on atable
or workbench. Point 2 shouldbe stapled or
lacked to lhe nch so U:utIt do<:s nOI move. Now roll the cylinder toward poInt 2. ^the cyllnder
Is rolled. the wIre from pOUl I Will roll around one ndoIthe cylinder. When you have fnished
rolling the cylinder POints I an(t 2ltouIucome together Now the wire from po:nt2. 3 make one
spiral arou.nd t he cylll1der ii+|ic36"length.
DEEP HOLE DRILLS
Li us wlk 11iltlc <hcml the Deep HIlle Drill. Sizes. and thl' Grimling
of the orill. What U Deep Hole Drill look like. and "111111 of the
terminology of Ihe rarhitlc drill.
I will nUl
g
(1 inlt) thcgrimJing ttl much of the Deep 1-1t)1t; Bils. as m{l1
will buy lhe sizes that they need. When you have III huy the 'V' luhe.
am Ihclirililips, plus insHllIlhc tlrilillrivcr, ind tip. il isjll1 a"uul as
cheap to huy the completed drill. Ifyuu want tll griml your tlrililips.
the various makers if Glrhidc lools will he able tll supply ynu wilh Ihe
scvcrotl izcs (If Carhide deep helle drill tips Ihal you \\ill ncell. Te
gnuJc()f t.:;lrhidc u!.ua IlyslIp*
plied ror deep hole lip:. is
IK1.
GRINDING TIPS
Tu set up for grinding the
deep hole tips. all Ihal is
necessary is 1 tur 2 short
pieces of drill rod, ahoul I
inch long, center one end of
Deep Hole Drill Tips
each piece, The drill rod
shuuld be the same size as
the drill tip that you are
planning to grind. Gel a
small V way, or'a piece of
finish angle. Lay the tip and the 2 pieces of drill rod, with the cenlers
out Uclh end of tile lip. Get some low melting silvcrs()ldcr and j()in
the 3 picces.
and
C
D
E
IIVEl
AS DEG.
0
I'OEG.
_ -
FL
20 DEG.
0
20DEG.
PosnON CHISLE
PRIMARY CLEARANCE
POINT AT
' ` |
.19JXDIA.
' I
SECON?
?
J
--\ :SS
CLEARANCE THAN ,020
i-
L-
DRILL TIP CLEARANCE
Usc Ihe lowesl name possihlc 10 melt I he silver solder, as 10 much heat
will OGin (ra(k Ihe GHhillc lip. Whcn donc lei (001 in the fixture.
When cool set up hetwccn centers of the lathe. set tail stock over so
u1Ove1CeLL*
g
o
o
e'
rt1uF
NO"rNCL . Tunr or cuN .. .. ,
you wi l l have U I lkgrcc i ndudcu taper per inch rrom the front or
(ulling edge or t i p t o t he hark.
After this. grind the primary land. This will have to he ground U
ahsolutcrcntl'r. AJkr lhi s is done. hcaL Ihedri ll t i p lip and remove the
:
l
DRILL
TUBING
CUTG EDGE
.
.
HOLE
DRILL liP
THROGH
TP
k 1 1Ubb
ceOiered ends. Grind lhe remainingsilvcr solder from lhecarbidc li
p
.
iflheholc>are pl ugged, dri l l lhcm oul. I have found lhal welders chalk
rubbed inlO Ihe holes of I he l i p will help H keep the solder from
plugging i l . The drill can now be moun led O the drill lubing.
IMfLL lf #M$5 lN CNWCWM
The V luhing can he purchase from High Sianoun!. l Donjon.
address arc in the hack of the hook under suppliers. 1 would rCllffi
mend Ihal Y()U huy Ihe firsl (ie from Ihe suppliers. This will save you
some head aches on your first harre!. The urill will last for several
humlrcd harrcls if you have no m.dtlcn(, ami you take (arc of them.
DRILLING THE RI FLE BARREL
In Ihi. dmp't'rwc \\ i l l cm'(:r I he pron: Suf makin)! lhl' I i l ll: 11;1 1 ' 1: 1 . 1y
II\IWyou kIll 1\\ III 1\\ 1 hI. ' 1< II\: l l l' !'II' lUIIU. 0UU ha\'t' " l'!`ilka of
hnw t he ri l l e har l c! l
lt1111 01 1 l' .:nd. and (cnlel dri l l l . On Ihl' , . , h, ' , l"lld i . I bl:sl
In lact" i. ni l :thl '
rj akcsl l I t I hal I l i e ' , ' nd I hal \IHI 1 1. 111(' 1 d I i l l ed J1 1 : 1 1 : 1 1 1 0 1 "1 1 1 1 " I I li AI I !f
I I H' 1I:l I l d I I.ItUI . 1 1 . IVii l l':-ll' ndl'll. I rtlJ l l l hl: clwd; : 1 1 ' 1 ' 1 1 1 !
,
i mhc'i.
If lIlhand i" .1 i{'k i Illl l I (1111 I hl' cnd (l r I hl' 1<11 lie. 111:1 kl a wllar. \\ il
h
SCi Sl'rl\' . lilt' hanl'l clIl he l'l'!Hl'ICUHI lU I i,!i d. Al lhl' l1ieh ~pccl
1 11;1 1 I iiI. 11;1 I 1 tl I til i lled. I he end ni l he harTl'1 wi l l ... 1 : 1 1 1 1 1 1 r1l1l 1 1 1 1 1 and
vihr;I1t.'
.
The rhi p box i S in' ,Jalled wi r l l r he sr arh :r hll"ihill! ill pla(,l', ;11111 r he
slarlel' hll:hill i ~ H'I
.
(" ; udul l y nusIil'u lIJl H!ainSI I lll' h:l l i d hl ank.
(:Ol1I1CCI :111 1 (shields
,
UIIII'I I"I IrLCI :
t
hOUl l ht: C lIH' Pll lhc: t' nd nr , hc
l.l lhe Ihal wi ll rCll1 l l1 l ilt: Clil whel; you ,!o IIHOII!,h th(' haHt'1 \'jlll the
lIrill. 8011 ihe II i 1 l 1lrivcI holder.ccntering it ViI h Ihe renter I I I he lail
stuck. 11 would he 111111(' fll:llr<lIC if II would he dnll<` \\Oh a 5han
dlUdcc ill till: II.!ad tuLk, t hrough t he opening t hat hullis the drill
drivJ:f,
Sct lhl: lle(p lit Ill' drill ill I he dril l drivlr (11 11) Iilrriage, l(mnel:l the
hylll allli, huse I n I Ill! l i l l illg. IIW\,try c.iHcfully Iafl I he drill I ip illio
the l ul l Il hll!hing. I kI t H'c. yllil 1111"11 1111 Ihe I i l lll Il!sl II (1I I l , lIllUhlc
dld Ihe !et Llew that hilids Ille drill ill, I fYlll l l ur 1I11 1hc oil iIHI
m1 6cw6 1OR
cn1mINu Bumt.
lATHE WITII COLLETS
FOR 1I0LDlNG BARREl,
t ur II p r I l l: P 1"(. "'.' U!v, Y It, wi l l llIW Ol l r 1 1 1.: OI i l l ili ld
I
' 1
.
n
.
"
.
Ca
.
ry was for Ihe uperalurs WIu8cIup Ihe ma..hine. lurn it on.
They had 10 walch so Ihe drill wouldn'l plug up with chip shul il of
when done, and Ihen reload i t and slarl again. When you gel
everylhing sel up righl. you will be able U turn oul 3-4 compleled
barrels a day with no problem on ONE lalhe. This is a compleled
harrel lhal is drilled. reamed and rilled.
Now aboul lhe laSl lhing lhal will be needed is a special Sleady R1
SUPPOI lhe drill lubing as il drills. This will help CU down tile
vlhrauons thai will some ti mes start in the tlrill.
You CAN NOT allow t hese vihrations to slart. If it uocs it l:an l::use
the carhide drill tip l1chip. and if you do not catch it in time it can also
cause the drill to plug upand twiSi the ti poff. Will give you a good idea
ofwhal " Deep Hole Drill looks like.
I want to point out Ih:l this drilling setup is not li mi lcd lo just barrels.
It ('n he uscll for 4uitc a hit df other imJuslriul opcral ions. where
extremely accurate holes arc neeued. Also with carhide drill tips. ver
hard sleel can he drilled. Fo odd shaped items whereyuu are unohle
PRESSURE AND VSCOSIT
MATEIUAL .156 .250
.500
LOW
VIS. - I'.S.1. IIH. - HlHl 100 - 800 125 - 7lN'
ALI.OY
1111; II
VIS. - 1'.S.1. 1110 - 8lH. 100 - 8lN. 125 - IMHI
AI.LY
111(;11
VIS. - I'.S.I. 1 110 - 800
11". - 8lH.
125 - IMH'
SI'I':":1l
:N.
VIS - I'.S.I. I OO - 8lH'
STAIN I.I'"S
OrOlale the drill. you can set u
p
the operation where the drill can l
rotatcd using special tooling.
PRESSURE AND VISCOSITY CHART.
Thcscwill givc)uu thc prc.sureand Visl;osily ("fYl/urOH Cuolarll !Il
dilferent Iypes of materials. Do nut furget luput the shield liver the
end uf the harrel, so when you tlr[ll lhruugh Ihe harrcl the nil will nul
he sprayed uver the enlire shup.
TOOL F OR G U N SMI T HS - AN D OTH ERS
W. o. MEK oullincs an old mClhod of drilling barrels
.Host readers are familiar with
D-bits, which are used as substitutes
for reamers in many model workshops,
alld hare been referred to in several
}'1E constructional articles. But recent
qlleries suggest that the D-bit is not
as well known as it should be, even to
professional engineers. This article
describes one of the first and most
important applications of D-bits in
deep drilling and boring operations.
Dcc !um $oIder !obl!
t
<",II" ....
! .
0 W
W
HILE the Dbit is pr!marily
a gunsmith's 1001. l could
be very useful to model
and general engineers if its mcthod
were more generally known. It is
often confused wi t h the nat bil for
opening out cored holes !H iron
castings.
When guns were firsl iDt rOduLed.the
nalUm1 cOlc to build them Wcre the
armourers and sword-l1l;lkcrs. They
had developed a high St0nUurU of skill
in smith's work. but they did not lise
lHc laIht to any extent. 1 was found
possi blC to make serviceable gun
barrel s by hammer-welding bundles of
wrought iron wires and ! \isling them
at the same time. When the barrels
were fnish fled. they had a DC0U1I!U
I8!D, running in spirals like a wire
IO. They were morc resistant to
bursting than an ordinary bnr.
At frst thC bore was rormed by
oIin on B mandrel. By 1 60 , gooU
quality bOIes VcIC |IOUuLcU WH!LH
must have beCn dr!lled. The UD
drill, as we know it. has the advantage
of beiDg able to drill u HOle accurately
without the need lOt an accurate beU.
The drill bit i1selis the accurate part.
!course, moder deephole UIlS are
highly accurate, multi-s
.
indle, DODt-
0tlV6D,highspemachUlcs-but they
I MRL l96{
are stil l the linear descendants of these
old devices.
Before Hitler alterd th,e 5
CUDC]