FFT Spring 2008

danger lurks!
Make your garden a safer place this spring

www.growingalberta.com
Cater to
Your guests
Backcountry Bounty
9 Hot stops
Cater to
Your guests
do it yourself or
hire some help
Backcountry Bounty
Visit skoki lodge for
a rustic gourmet spread
9 Hot stops
Check out some weekend
country getaways
Hey, kids!
Cow jokes,
an experiment,
a puzzle
Off tHe
PatH
Find out about
Albertas
exotic meats
Eaten
000.ABBeef_FP_nBL.indd 1 2/4/08 12:33:01 PM
C
ontent s
C
ontent s
Spring 2008
features
10 Off the eaten Path
try something diferent for dinner. Find out
what the new white meat is
by No mi L oPi nt o
16 Revisit the faRm
Follow the country call and head to the farm
for fun. Start planning now
by Ri c k Ov e r wa t e r
23 backcOuntRy best
Katie mitzel whips up Skoki lodge gourmet
food without running water or electricity
by Ewa n Ni c hol s on
28 a cateRed affaiR
Your small party ballooned. is it time to call
in the pros?
by J u l i e Va n Ros e nd a a l
42 dinneR takes all
gamble on albertas expertise. researchers
coax the best from functional foods
by Ca i t l i n Cr a ws ha w
department s
4 a message fROm gROwing
albeRta
6 Quick bites
From your backyard; new suds: soap and
beer; How to brew the perfect cup of
alberta-roasted cofee; mac & cheese
dreams; PlUS: my secret ingredient
22 new! fOOd studies
the U of a studies organics
27 since yOu asked
a dietician explains how to feed to win
32 a day in the life
at mo-na Food mushroom wholesalers, they
put the fun in fungus
34 tRavel
look south and east, to a veritable veggie
paradise, but bring your sunglasses
36 city slickeR
Jenn hits the road for dairy farm
bles-wold. Hint: Just look for the cows
40 health and safety
Dangers lurk in your backyard!
Find out what they are and fx em
46 Just fOR kids
a big frosty glass of moo-juice puts
you right. PlUS: Puzzles and jokes
48 whats Online
a preview of whats coming at
50 PictuRe PeRfect
28
23
PHotograPHY tHiS Page top to bottom, John gaucher,
ewan nicholson
onthe cover:
ostrich steak with
coriander and pepper crust
eiSing/ maXXimageS.com
foodforthoughtspring 2008
Publisher Growing Alberta
associatePublisher daskadavis
editors Maureenosadchuk,
MifPurvis
artdirector K.PaigeWeir
assistantartdirector CatherineLizotte
ProductionManager VanleeRobblee
Productiontechnician Betty-LouSmith
distributionManager KerriByers
circulation Amandadammann
advertisingaccount taraKochan
executive
AfSC,AtBfinancial,AlbertaCanolaProducersCommission,
AlbertasCreditunions,BayerCropScience,CalgaryCo-op,
CanadaSafeway,CIBC,CountiesofAthabasca,Cypress,Lamont,
Leduc,Newell,Saddlehills,Starland,VulcanandYellowhead,
grafkom.Speedfast,MdsofAcadia,greenview,Peace,Ranchland,
RockyviewandWainwright,MeyersNorrisPenny,RBCRoyalBank,
Save-on-foods,SunterraMarkets,SyngentaCropProtection
Canada,theRealCanadianSuperstore,Extrafoods,
ufACo-operativeLimited
Food for Thought is published quarterly by growing Alberta.
If you would like more information on agriculture and food in Alberta, please
visit our website at www.growingalberta.com
If you would like to contact Food for Thought,
send an e-mail to info@growingalberta.com, or write to us at
#201, 8704 51 Avenue,
Edmonton, AB t6E 5E8
780-466-7905
You are welcome to reprint articles fromFood for Thought,
but please credit Food for Thought and growing Alberta.
Food for Thought is printed on recycled paper, using
canola-based ink and water-soluble varnish on the cover.
Copyright 2008 growing Alberta
growing Albertais a trademark of growing Alberta.
Food for Thought is published by Venture Publishing Inc.
for growing Alberta.
undeliverable mail should be directed to the Edmonton ofce.
10259-105 Street, Edmonton, AB t5J 1E3 or by e-mail to
circulation@venturepublishing.ca
Canadian Publications Mail Product Sales Agreement #40020055
Supporters of Growing Alberta
pringAhead? The great thing about magazine publishing is that you
generally get to work a season in advance. So, while there is a severe
wind-chill factor and the temperature is in the minus double-digits
outside my window, our thoughts inside the offce are focused on the
excitement that spring brings.
In our health and safety column this issue, this time titled Backyard
Bogeys, Lisa Ostrowski is making a list and checking it twice only her
list has to do with garden safety.
Planning for spring seems to make it
come a little quicker.
And the season also brings
thoughts about planning pretty
parties. In Julie Van Rosendaals
feature, A Catered Affair, she gets
you started with a list of tips and a
delectable fnger-food menu. Her
feature guides you, advising when its time to hang up your apron and
call in the pros.
Caitlin Crawshaw takes off her apron and dons a lab coat as she ven-
tures into the world of Albertas nutraceuticals and functional foods.
Shell explain what they are and why they should matter to you. You
may be making different decisions at your grocery check-out.
Precious warm-weather weekends and short getaways are always
popular. Rick Overwater pens a listing and some tips to get you started
exploring some of Albertas great agriculture tourism destinations.
Id like to issue a challenge to our readers! Agriculture tourism desti-
nations are becoming very popular with many of our urban consumers
and Growing Alberta would like to learn more about your adventures.
Send us a photo, along with a letter describing your Alberta getaway,
and share your experience. Your story may be published and, if so, well
award you a unique Alberta prize basket. Send your submissions to
Editor, Food For Thought, 10259-105 St., Edmonton, AB, T5J 1E3 or via
e-mail to mpurvis@venturepublishing.ca.
Watch for our Summer issue coming to you in May!
Maureen Osadchuk
gRoWINg ALBERtA
Editors Message
S
Contributors
WRITERSCaitlinCrawshaw,Lisa Ostrowski,NomiLoPinto,Rick Overwater,
daviddiCenzo,Ewan Nicholson,WesLafortune,Teri McKinnon,JulieVanRosendaal,
Isabela C. Varela,Andreaholwegner
phOTOGRAphERSKellyRedinger,Dustin Delfs,MichaelWoolley,
Brian Buchsdruecker,Johngaucher,Colin Way
Food for Thought, published by growing Alberta, communicates with consumers about agriculture and food
in Alberta. We knowthat food, the environment and your health and wellness are very important to you. With
support fromgovernment and industry partners, growing Alberta and Food for Thought magazine seek to
provide recipes and tips using Alberta food products, profle the people working to bring safe and nutritious
food to your table, and informyou about issues like food safety and quality, agricultures role in caring for the
environment and animals, and the heritage and future of the industry in Alberta.
But every homeowner should know that when it comes to safe, reliable delivery of natural gas, hundreds of ATCO Gas
employees in 62 offices across Alberta go the distance - and then some - every day. Because while knowing what to
do in an outage is important, it's also worth knowing that if it does happen, the people working for us will do what it
safely takes to keep ATCO Gas working for you.
True, not every homeowner needs to know what to do in the event of a gas outage.
F|od o0t more abo0t how AT00 6as works at atcogas.com
Report gas outages immediatel] o] calling ATC0 0as Emergenc] 8ervices.
dmootoo & area: 780-420-5585 0a|gary & area: 403-245-7222 A|| other areas 1-800-511-3447
000.AtcoBlue_1-2H_nBL.indd 1 1/28/08 5:28:12 PM
Whos serving what?
Fresh
Events
Tours
Tasty yum!
Hungry to know where Albertas fnest home-grown fresh foods can be
found near you? Check out ChompAroundAlberta.com for the latest in
whats in season, fabulous recipes, u-picks, farmers markets, Dine Alberta
locations and sample food itineraries all through the growing season!
All the News thats Fit to Chomp!
www.chomparoundalberta.com
Feed your passion!
Seasons eatings!
Family time.
000.TravelAlberta_1-2H_nBL.indd 1 1/28/08 1:31:32 PM
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Edmonton owner and webmaster of Ambers
Brewing Company, Jim Gibbon, seeks to ofer
deliciously unique beers that appeal to malt
mavens. His company is the culmination of his
travels, history, food and drink. A virtual trunk
full of black and white pictures, www.ambers-
brewing.com is a brilliant album of nostalgia,
news and information that defnes the brewery.
As much care and history goes into the brew, too.
for spring, Ambers is launching two new
beer favours: a robust stout and a wheat beer.
Gibbons Stout, is a dark beer with black malt
and roasted barley, giving a caramel favour up
front with a distinctive dry-roasted bitterness in
the fnish. The word stout means strong or
brave, positive associations for this strong,
dark and delicious beer.
Wheat beers are also known as white beers
or weissbeir, because before the invention of
pale lagers and pale ales, most beers were dark.
Wheat beers were the exception, as the wheat
content lightened the colour of the beer.
Ambers wheat beer is light and crisp with citral
and clove aromas. The name of the wheat beer,
not yet released, is still a mystery, but in keeping
with the history and personalities involved in the
brewing company, it will most likely refect the
Newfoundland roots of brewer Joe Parrell.
Ambers Brewing Company uses water from
the North Saskatchewan river and purchases as
many of its ingredients as possible in Alberta.
We are trying to strengthen our Alberta rela-
tionships and get an even higher percentage of
local products in our ingredients, says Gibbon.
This is all about Alberta and our partnerships.
By Teri McKinnon
Bubs Lunch
Pail Ale
Take it from the
worlds only water-
fall maintenance
man, Bub: you will
love this beer.
Strong, Dark
and Handsome
My secret ingredient? Hmm, thats tough.
I guess Id have to say its bison. Its really
become a passion. Nine years ago, I had
never worked with it, and now its a staple
at Wildwood. Im part owner here, along
with my partner Stephen reid. We source
a lot of our products locally like beef
from Spring Creek ranch, cheese from
Sylvan Star and canola from Highwood
Crossing. of course, the bison is no difer-
ent. We get it from Carmen Creek Bison.
Some cuts of bison, such as steak,
need a shorter cooking time than beef.
You have to cook with more caution,
because it has about 30 per cent less fat.
But with briskets or short ribs, you need
to cook it a little longer, at a lower temper-
ature, so it doesnt dry out its a very
dense meat. Being from Germany (I came
here in 86) thats my favourite bison dish,
short ribs, and I like it with a nice berry,
vanilla and chipotle sauce.
Australian
Mountain
Pepper Berry
A crisp, simple
beer with a slight
blueberry nose and
a wonderful tinge
of pepper on the
back of your tongue.
Pale Ale
Simple, smooth,
complete. Three
diferent malts, four
diferent hops and
the King of the
Yeasts.
GROG (Coolers)
Pure and natural.
Caribbean lime,
sugar and alcohol,
with a touch of rum.
No preservatives,
no boiling of the
favour. A craft
brewed cooler.
Ambers Brewed Beauties
Josef Wiewer,
CorPorATE CHEf
ANdPArT oWNEr,
WIldWoodGrIll
ANdBrEWING
CoMPANY
My Secret Ingredient
Quick Bites
Soap of Hope
With spring comes run-of, street cleaning
and, for some, the fertilizing of lawns and
trees. How do we minimize the number of
chemicals being put into the water system
and, ultimately, our bodies? Taking control
of our health includes both our bodies and
the environment, says Tanya Zurlock,
President of Wild Prairie Soap Company.
Based in Edmonton, Wild Prairie is an eco-
friendly manufacturer of handcrafted bath
and body products committed to reducing
the number of chemicals coming in contact
with the environment and our bodies.
Zurlock says its good for the planet and the
skin. our high-quality, made-from-scratch
soaps and lotions are non-drying, good for
sensitive skin and biodegradable.
Strong, Dark
and Handsome
It used to be, wed defrost a slab of beef, slap it
on the grill and chow down without thinking
too hard about it. But consumers today are
interested not just in new ways to prepare their
food, but also in where it came from, and what
its food was. The Alberta livestock industry has
responded.
for the past couple of years, industry has
been communicating with consumers to raise
their confdence in, and awareness of, the
starring attractions on their dinner plates. Its
a campaign called Whats on Your Plate?
The campaign includes an engaging,
sponsored section in the Edmonton Journal
and Calgary Herald (every second Sunday) that
features articles, frequently asked questions and
quick facts. Whats on Your Plate addresses
issues such as BSE, antibiotics in food and
even introduces readers to producers.
An archive of the articles, plus interactive
segments and pod casts are available on the
website. Want to check out some celebrity
kitchens or enter a contest? Then visit
www.whatsonyourplate.ca.
Here are a couple of great
Alberta food events
happening this spring:
Slow Food Calgary is hosting
its annual salute to spring, roots
and Shoots, at The river Caf
on March 9. dinner and a special
guest chef mark the transition to
warmer seasons. Slow foodies and
other gourmands can buy tickets
at the Cookbook Company Cooks,
(403)265-6006, or Janice Beaton
fine Cheese, (403)229-0900.
Tickets are $110 for members;
$135 non-members.
The Inner City Agencies
Foundation is holding its 13th
annual Mac+Cheese luncheon
on Thursday, March 20, 2008
at Edmontons Shaw Conference
Centre. Businesses and individual
lunchers gather to dine on the
perennial favourite at $150 a
plate. If it seems a little steep,
the proceeds go to the foundation
to funds its programs. Businesses
can reserve a table for $1,200.
for more information, call
(780)990-1000 or email
macandcheese@uway.ab.ca
Whats on
Your Plate?
Wild Prairie aims to use all-natural, and
some locally-sourced ingredients, to create
products that are manufactured in an envi-
ronmentally safe manner. The essential oils
we use are mostly derived from plants, not
synthetically, says Zurlock.
for spring, the signature product, Prairie
Sunfower Soap, will expand its line to include
hand and body therapy, a lotion bar, and a body
polish (exfoliating scrub). As we get into
spring sandal weather, the array of natural
foot care products entices many custom-
ers, Zurlock says. And being conscious of
the body and the environment keeps clients
running back to us. Wild Prairie distributes
across Canada and world-wide. for more
information, visit www.wildprairiesoap.ca.
By Teri McKinnon
Eat n Greet
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The gear: Use paper
flters, if you like, Semograd
says, but gold mesh flters
make for better cofee.
Try a side-by-side taste test
and you be the judge. Choose
an insulated carafe, rather
than a pot with a hot plate
under it. The constant heat
burns the cofee.
Home Brew
Theres nothing more irritating than a lousy cup of cofee. So invest a little time, and
maybe a little money, slow down and learn to brew the perfect cup, thanks to the great
advice from Wade Semograd of Calgarys Big Mountain Cofee Roasters. The beans
arent grown here, but Semograd imports and roasts them, making
them far less travelled than the typical bean.
Bean there: Buy good-quality, whole
beans, the kind that come out of the bag
aromatic and medium-dark. Use a burr grinder
(for uniform grounds) at home and grind
beans in small batches, as needed. If you cant
be bothered, buy whole beans and have the
barrista grind them. The shorter the time span
between grinding and brewing, the better the joe.
House blend: Buy
bean from a local craft roaster,
specializing in small batches.
At Big Mountain, customers
know that their beans have been
roasted relatively recently and
wont sufer the blows of time.
Fridge or shelf? Its a long-running
controversy. do cofee grounds or beans stay
fresher on the inside or outside of your fridge?
Wade Semograd, owner and roaster at Big
Mountain is frm: keep cofee anywhere but in
the fridge. Some of his customers say freezing
works well. In the cupboard, its good for a
couple of weeks, he says. But just buy enough
for a week for maximum favour.
Back to the grind: If you have
a cone-shaped flter, grind your cofee fne,
about 20 seconds in a home grinder, so its
uniform and granulated. for a bodum-style
press, use your grinder for about 10 seconds,
for a coarser grind. Pour over the water, and
let it sit for about three to four minutes
before you press.
Waterworld: You dont
need more bean for any particular
method. Big Mountain advises
you use one heaping tablespoon
of ground for about 200 ml (six
ounces) of water. Use fresh, clean,
cool water and heat it to just shy
of the boiling point.
Quick Bites
For delicious recipes and
information visit our website:
www.albertalamb.com
Alberta Lamb is a nutritious,
delicious, lean meat that can be
prepared in a variety of ways.
It is easy to cook, and is locally
available either from select retailers
or directly from a producer.
From a backyard barbecue to a
fancy gourmet dinner, Alberta lamb
delivers great taste every time.
000.ABSheep_1-6V_nBL.indd 1 1/30/08 4:28:09 PM
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local food, the 100-mile diet
and the slow-food movement are
gaining popularity. Consumers
and customers are increasingly
aware of the advantages to
sustaining regional food
production and supporting the
entrepreneurial producer.
This expectation of consum-
ers to see direct links to identif-
able producers and farms near
their cities is the focus of a new
program at the Calgary
Stampede called from Your
Backyard.
Agriculture and food are
an integral part of the Calgary
Stampede events, programming
and identity, says Kerrie Blizard,
sales and events customer
service manager. We have
nurtured valuable relationships
with commodity groups and agri-
culture stakeholders that con-
nect us directly to the producer.
To research the concept of
from Your Backyard, the Calgary
Stampede partnered with local
producers to showcase their
passion and entrepreneurial
spirit, as well as their products.
Meeting the producer was
essential, says Blizard. We went
directly to their farms and green-
houses to experience the com-
mitment and dedication in their
production practices, safety, and
efciencies. We have never been
dissatisfed with the quality of
product from any of the local
suppliers or producers we have
dealt with.
As executive chef with the
Calgary Stampede, derek dales
reputation is based on quality.
I want the best, freshest ingredi-
ents to prepare the best meal,
says dale, but just understand-
ing the food isnt enough. Its
important to have a relationship
with the producer and be able
to fully appreciate the detail,
care and attention paid to
producing safe, healthy and
delicious products.
Interest in the from Your
Backyard program runs across
the Stampede organization, but
the demand from the corporate
world is what drives it. There
is a sophisticated, educated
consumer who understands
the importance of supporting
the local producer, Blizard says.
These consumers seek out busi-
nesses that demonstrate a similar
philosophy of service. The expec-
tation and social accountability
of the customer is increasing.
All of the producers go out
of their way to educate our staf
on the background of the food,
she says. This is about being able
to add another level of stellar
service to a frst-class venue.
By Teri McKinnon
From Your Backyard
10 foodforthoughtspring 2008
Off the
Albertans love meat. But you may not have known just
how many different kinds
of it we consume. Check out the new meat alternatives
story By nomi lopinto
eAten PAth
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DARREN WOLF
www.growingalBerta.com 11
Albertans love meat. But you may not have known just
how many different kinds
of it we consume. Check out the new meat alternatives
eAten PAth
hen Terry Church wanted to lose
weight he looked no further than the
cuts of meat already sitting in his fridge.
As the manager of the Calgary Rocky
Mountain Ranch, Church is never far
from a supply of healthy, low-fat game
meat. This was the ideal fare for the 67-
year-old, who wanted to shed some
pounds without sacrifcing red meat in
his diet.
The nice thing was, I could eat a
moderate serving of protein a few times
a day, Church says. It goes a long way
towards satisfying your hunger, without
worrying about the calories. Three
months into a new, and very healthful, diet
that incorporated elk, bison meat and lots
of veggies, Church had lost 60 pounds.
Of course, the regular meats that
W
>>
consumers are more familiar with are still good
choices when it comes to healthy eating and sen-
sible dieting, especially when diners choose the
leaner cuts. But adding exotics to the mix offers
some more options. And, in todays weight
conscious times, game meat is an increasingly
popular choice that helps counter diet fatigue.
Typically, dieters want to eat low-fat meat,
says Church. Elk and bison fall right into that
category quite nicely. Apart from being good for
weight loss, its also a favourful meat that pres-
ents people with a nice alternative when theyre
looking for a change.
With some game meats, you also have the
added advantage of being able to visit and
choose your game. Ranchers are accessible; you
can drive up to many of their doors and see their
operations in action, view the animals and fnd
out about the meat before you buy.
As a market, game meat is growing in
Alberta. The fastest growing segment is what
Church calls the white tablecloth market the
restaurants. Bison meat, in particular, is increas-
ingly popular with local chefs, and its a staple at
most fne dining establishments. It has also
penetrated the retail market and is now consis-
tently available in most large supermarkets and
discount stores. Similar to its cousin, beef, bison
meat is a nutrient-dense food with a high pro-
portion of protein, minerals, iron, zinc and
essential fatty acids (omega-3 and 6).
Elk is also increasingly popular in the west-
ern provinces. More commonly consumed in
Europe, it has seen tremendous growth in the
last fve years, mostly in fne dining or gourmet
cuisine establishments. There are about 375 elk
producers in the province, and about 35,000
animals, which may sound like a lot but is actu-
ally a pretty small population, especially when
you compare it to beef. The most commonly
raised varieties of elk are Rocky Mountain,
Manitoban and Roosevelt, all of which are
indigenous to Canada. A mature bull can weigh
as much as 500 kilograms (1,100 pounds), with a
female weighing in at 250 to 350 kilograms (550
to 660 pounds). In Canada, the main purpose of
farming elk has been the sale of antler velvet and
ivory, but industry research has shown that meat
quality is not compromised as the animal ages.
Even a mature animal as old as eight can still be
harvested, which is good news for both produc-
ers and consumers. It is one of the leanest meats
out there, high in protein, iron and B vitamins,
and has a distinct favour. It is well suited to light
cuisine, such as broiling, grilling, and stir-fries.
As versatile as beef, it can be prepared by the
The way he tells it, Don Bamber bought his
frst bull elk because he wanted to be able to
admire the animal at close range every day.
I saw a two-minute blurb on television
saying that the rules for raising elk had
changed, making them easier to farm,
says Bamber. The idea was so exciting.
I wanted to see those great big racks outside
my window.
Don and Holly Bamber started out with a
herd of fve on their land near Sangudo,
Alberta. What started out as a whimsical
purchase quickly turned into a solid busi-
ness. A passing comment from a neighbor on
the high monetary value of elk antler led the
couple to study the development of a pro-
cess to freeze dry and encapsulate organic
antler on their property. The Bambers har-
vest the antler in its velvet stage, in early
summer, before it has hardened. Contrary to
popular notions, its not the velvet they use,
its the slightly soft antler underneath.
Harvested at this stage, the antlers have
eight essential amino acids, pancreatine and
chondroitin sulphate. Antler has been used
in Asia to treat conditions ranging from
arthritis to multiple sclerosis. Since 1994, the
Bambers have built four processing plants.
By 1996, Royal Elk Products was producing
two kinds of health capsules, pure elk antler,
and elk antler and ginseng.
Elk: A royal idea
same methods, although cooking times are
usually reduced by as much as one third. Its
leanness makes it easier to overcook. Elk has
gone from being a nearly invisible presence to
being on many menus in Edmonton and
Calgary restaurants, but its a little harder for
a shopper to fnd it on an everyday basis.
But if youre bored by bison, easy on elk and
wont be coy with caribou, why not try some
ostrich? A handful of ostrich farmers in Alberta
produce a delicious red meat that is also low in
cholesterol, fat and calories. Ostrich meat is a
deep red, a littler darker red than beef. Most of
the lean meat will come from the large muscles
in the legs and the back, which can be sold as
steaks and roasts. With a veal-like texture and
taste, ostrich meat can replace beef in all your
traditional recipes. Patsy Clark, of Patsy Clark
Farms, has been raising the giant birds for nine
years. Her sausages, ground meat patties, pep-
peroni, and other cuts of meat can be found
year-round at the Calgary Farmers Market.
The meat is very beef-like in favour but has
almost no fat in it, she says. It cooks very
quickly and is easy to digest. She adds that con-
sumers might be surprised that the cost is com-
parable to that of good cuts of beef.
Ostriches are the largest living birds in the
world. Native to Africa, they seem able to adapt
to almost any climate. Adult males, called roost-
ers, can reach two and a half metres (seven or
eight feet) tall and weigh 160 to 180 kilograms
(350 to 400 pounds). One ostrich egg is equiva-
lent in mass to two dozen chicken eggs; to soft
boil one egg takes about an hour. An ostrich hen
can lay between 40 and 100 eggs a year.
Patsy and her husband Bob raise about 100
birds a year. They also sell everything related to
the bird, including broken and whole egg shells
(valued by some painters as a unique work sur-
face), hides and feathers. Patsy has also created
her own line of ostrich oil-based soaps, face and
body creams.
Ostrich meat contains little fat, which means
it does cook differently than beef. Tender cuts
should be grilled, broiled or barbecued. Steaks
should not be cooked to more than medium or
medium-rare. Steaming, sauting or cooking
the meat with vegetables is the best method for
people who like their meat well done, otherwise
the meat may end up dry and tough. Most cuts
will cook faster than an equivalent cut of beef,
and less is defnitely more in the spice depart-
ment because the meat picks up favour easily
and quickly. Patsy likes to make roasts, because
they are so quick and easy, she says. The Clarks
At one time, the
farm had as many as
600 animals, all bulls
maintained on organ-
ic pasture. The
Bambers diversifed
their products to
include elk sausage
and prime cuts of
meat for human con-
sumption, and treats for household pets. In
1999, the couple reduced the size of their
operation due to drought to a smaller herd
and invested in their then 10-year-old daugh-
ters fedgling business venture: Super Dog
Treats, a high-end holistic treat enriched
with, you guessed it, elk antler. The treats are
designed to maintain the health of mans
best friend, as well as help protect them
from the efects of old age: arthritis and stif
joints, as well as alleviating allergies and
stomach ailments. Ingredients include soy
protein concentrate, brown rice, dried
ground apple and saskatoon berries, among
others.
Even after 20 years, Don still loves seeing
the elk outside his kitchen window. Luckily
for him, what began as a calling became a liv-
ing. Ive always been the kind of person who
does what he wanted to do, he says. Some
people study it. I just went ahead and did it.
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i n thE rAw: Ostrich meat is a good, lean alternative for use in beef recipes. To fnd the
recipe for Ostrich steak with pepper crust pictured on the cover, go to www.growingalberta.com
1 rabbit skinned, cleaned
(about 2.5 lb/1.2 kg) and boned
4-6 Tbsp (60-90 mL) canola oil
2 medium onions,
peeled and cut
into wedges
4 cloves garlic,
fnely chopped
1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) salt
3/4-1 cup (185-250 mL) dry white wine
1-2 sprigs fresh thyme
BRAISEd MEdITERRANEAN AlBERTA RABBIT
have established relationships with some
Calgary-based eateries, such as gourmet restau-
rants Fleur de Sel and Rouge, which serve ostrich
on their dinner menus every day. But Patsy hasnt
tasted it. We eat so much ostrich at home, when
we go out I want something different, she says.
If youre intimidated by ostrich you can
always do as people from Mediterranean,
southern European, Middle Eastern, African,
southeastern Asian, South and Central Ameri-
can and the West Indies do and buy yourself
some chevron, also known as goats meat.
According to the Alberta Goat Breeders Associa-
tion, some 63 per cent of red meat consumed in
the rest of the world is goat. Immigrants from
these countries celebrate Ramadan, Greek
Easter, and Hindu holidays with traditional goat
meat dishes. People of Jamaican descent also
like to celebrate Carnival, Carifest, and Jamai-
can Independence day with traditional dishes
such as goat curry, a favourite at the home Mau-
reen lewis, whose Jamaican-born husband
loves both the animal and the dish. The couple
raises a small herd of Boer, Boer cross and la
Mancha goats on Balmaur Farms in Three Hills.
We thought we could raise goats for meat
and have the pleasure of having the animals
around, says Maureen. That got us into it. No
sooner were we in it than we realized we should
stay involved.
There are nearly 300 breeds of goats world-
wide, but in Canada, youll fnd only about a
dozen breeds. Female goats are called does,
males are bucks, and baby goats are known as
kids. Wethers is the term used to describe
castrated males. All of them can be harvested.
The Boer goat is one of the more commonly
used for meat production.
They are perfect acreage animals, she says.
About fve goats can be raised where one cow can.
Your herd grows quickly because generally speak-
ing they have multiple births, twins or triplets.
Chevrons favour can be likened to venison
or lamb but it has a mild taste. You can use the
same cuts of meat in the same recipes as you
would beef or venison. Its comparable to a lean
beef in cholesterol and fat levels. An 85-gram
(three-ounce) serving of cooked chevron con-
tains 122 calories, 2.58 g fat, 0.79 g saturated fat,
23 g protein, and 3.2 mg iron. Maureen prepares
spaghetti and meatballs, chops, steaks, roasts,
and a lot of curry with the meat.
Its grown in leaps and bounds, she says of
Albertas goat consumption. Every year we have
kidded out more young goats and at the end of
the year we still dont have enough to fll
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cut the rabbit into four equal-sized
pieces, removing any fat and sinew, then
wash and pat dry. In a large oven-proof
skillet or roasting tin, heat a few table-
spoons of oil over medium-high heat and
brown the rabbit pieces, working in
batches so that you dont crowd the
skillet. transfer to a plate and set aside.
Add a little more oil and saut the
onions for about 5 minutes, until soft-
ened and starting to turn golden. Add
the garlic and salt and cook for another
minute. deglaze the pan with the wine,
stirring to scrape up any browned bits
on the bottom of the pan.
return the browned meat to the pan,
along with sprigs of rosemary and thyme.
the liquid should come a quarter to
halfway up the sides of the meat. If it
doesnt, add some stock.
1-2 whole sprigs
of fresh rosemary
1 cup (250 mL) chicken stock
1/3 cup (80 mL) pitted black olives,
left whole or
coarsely chopped
1/3 cup (80 mL) pitted green olives,
left whole or
coarsely chopped
1 lemon, cut in half
Freshly ground
pepper
turn the heat down to low, cover
and cook for about 30 minutes, adding
stock as necessary if the liquid evapo-
rates. Baste the meat with the juices in
the pan and continue to cook for
another 20 minutes. Add the olives
and cook for another 10-15 minutes.
Squeeze the juice of the lemon over
top. Add salt and pepper to taste.
Serve in shallow bowls, with rosemary
potatoes, risotto or bread. Serves 4.
pEr SErVING:658 cALorIES, 34 G fAt (6.5 G
SAturAtEd, 15 G MoNouNSAturAtEd, 7.7 G
poLYuNSAturAtEd), 63. 4 G protEIN, 12.5 G
cArBoHYdrAtE, 171 MG cHoLEStEroL, 3.1 G
fIBEr. 50% cALorIES froM fAt.
An InstItute of technology commItted to student success
72 - 0 St. Edmonton Albertu Cunudu g_ 780.47.248
www.nait.ca/continuingeducation
cAllIng All foodIes
report for gourmet duty.
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Love to entertuin? Leurn to prepure multi-course meuls using udvunced techniques.
Aug 11 to 15, 2008 | $2,195
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phone 780.378.S04
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000.NAIT_1-2M-nBL.indd 1 1/28/08 12:48:00 PM
ALBERTA GOAT BREEDERS ASSOCIATION
Learn about the provinces great goats.
Visit www.albertagoatbreeders.ca or call
(780) 878-3814.
J & M RABBIT FARMS Contact the Oosterhofs
of Lethbridge, AB. Find out about rabbit meat
and rabbit manure compost. Call (403) 317-0330
or e-mail jim.margaret.oosterhof@gmail.com.
demand. We also help people set up their own
focks and we commit to working with them.
We promise that if any these farmers have goats
left over at the end of the year, well help sell
them, but none has returned a goat yet.
You can fnd just about any exotic meat at
your local farmers markets. If white meat is
your preference, sample some rabbit in leth-
bridge from Jim and Margaret Oosterhof s
stand at the local farmers market. J&M Rabbit
Farms sells ground whole rabbit and cut-up rab-
bit. They also sell their own line of meat patties
for Fido, if commercial foods dont agree with
your dog.
Its really good and pleasant to work with,
says Margaret Oosterhof. The favour is what
actually draws people to it.
The Oosterhofs had been raising pet rabbits
for decades when they decided to expand their
operation in 2000 to include meat for human
consumption, hawk and dog food. For garden-
ers, their focks produce lots of bunny manure,
great for a nutrient-rich soil. The Oosterhofs
invested in two varieties; the New Zealand,
which are large animals with pure white fur and
red eyes and the Californian, with black patches.
As the only rabbit meat producers in the prov-
ince, they quickly found a niche market.
If you have diabetes, heart disease or obesity,
rabbit meat makes good dietary sense. It has
only 795 calories per pound. Its easy to digest,
high in protein and low in cholesterol. Its also a
tender and juicy dish with a light favour. People
buy direct from the farm, or sample rabbit at a
variety of high-end restaurants in both leth-
bridge and Calgary. The Guesthouse Restaurant
in lethbridge served; restaurant owner and chef
Al Scherer created a rabbit dish with wine sauce,
and another with honey garlic. The dishes sell,
he says.
luckily, people like to try new things, says
Scherer. Its totally unique, and its always nice
to have new dishes.
Find out more
Dont take our word for it; visit some of the Alberta producers of exotic meats yourself.
Hit the farmers markets, hit the road or start online to learn more.
BALMAuR FARMS Contact Barry and Maureen
Lewis in Three Hills to fnd out about what the
rest of the world considers red meat. Call (403)
443-2874 or e-mail balmaur@xplornet.com.
PATSY CLARk FARMS AND ESSENCE OF
THE NILE Patricia and Bob Clark can talk
ostrich with you. Call (403) 285-1624 or visit
www.patsyclarkfarms.ca or www.ostrich.ca.
CANADIAN ROCkY MOuNTAIN RANCH Terry
Church can tell you how to bust out of dieting
doldrums with his great Alberta game meats.
Call (403) 256-1350 or visit www.crmranch.com.
ROYAL ELk PRODuCTS The Bambers of
Sangudo can talk about the benefts of elk
antler and velvet for you and Fido. Call (780)
785-3558.
Revisit
the farm
Scratch the surface and many Alberta families are a little bit country.
Heres the chance to get back to your roots
story By rick overwater
F
or Mike Semenchuk, it started out as a reluctant
discharge of husbandly duties, accompanying his wife
to a U-pick berry operation near Okotoks, to pick fresh
currants for jam making. There were other ways I wanted
to kill the afternoon, he says. But once they escaped Calgary,
his perspective quickly shifted.
I really did enjoy being out of town for a change,
Semenchuk says. And it was great watching our boy run
around in the dirt. Unfortunately, he learned the hard way
why we were trying to keep him from playing in this anthill
hed found.
A mild sunburn and some ant bites later, Semenchuk
and his family were among the growing number of Albertans
embracing agriculture tourism. Ag tourism, as its known,
can mean mixing a pleasant day of with a trip to the country
to shop for and eat fresh food. Or it can mean staying a few
days at a working cattle ranch to help round up cows on
horseback. And theres a defnite educational aspect to ag
tourism. I didnt know what a currant actually tasted like
until that day, Semenchuk says.
Whether youre a day tripper or have a secret hankering
to be a cowboy, make this the summer you enjoy Albertas
countryside. Youll eat well, feel great and you may not want
to go back. Heres a roundup of a few great places to start.
16 foodforthought spring 2008
rangeview ranch, Cardston
Aptly named, Rangeview Ranch sits astride the Milk River
Ridge in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, just southeast
of Cardston. The prairies stretch eastward, seemingly to
infnity, while magnifcent rangeland undeniably perfect
cattle country sprawls west. Visitors can jump neck-deep
into the life of a working ranch hand, assisting with brand-
ing, calving, tagging and the numerous other tasks that ulti-
mately put beef on our tables. Whether you adopt the cowboy
life or simply soak up more common tourist pleasures, such
as riding down the Milk River on an inner tube, you will def-
nitely be involved in Rangeview Ranchs primary activity,
horseback riding.
In addition to the charms of Rangeview Ranch, youll be
near other attractions such as Head-Smashed-In Buffalo
Jump, offering an incomparable look at First Nations history,
and Waterton Lakes National Park, recognized as a World
Heritage Site. Rangeview Ranch provides three delicious
home-cooked meals, lodging, horses, tack, guide, entertain-
ment on the ranch, and many other extras. Alcohol beverages
are not supplied, so if you want one after a hard days riding,
youll need to bring your own.
ohlers acres, Sangudo
Now located just northwest of Edmonton, the Ohlers got their start in
agriculture much further south in Stavely. At the time, the concept of
ag tourism had yet to become as widespread as it is today, but for Carol
Ohler, it was experiences in Stavely that frst planted the seed.
We ran a mixed farm, and wed get calls from people in town saying
My grandchildren are visiting from the city and theyve never seen a real
farm or We have friends from out of the country who are interested in
local agriculture, recalls Ohler.
Inevitably, the Ohlers would end up playing host and showing people
around their farm.
Today, showing people the farming lifestyle is a full-time occupation.
Though Ohlers Acres is more of a tourists bed and breakfast these days,
the family still raises grass-fed beef in the summer and offers visitors
an insiders glimpse of beef production. But the true attraction to this
quarter-section (160 acres) just west of Edmonton is the Ohlers boreal
forest, teeming with deer, moose, owls, eagles and more. Check out
Alberta spruce, willows, hazelnut trees and other abundant vegetation.
Weekend stays include the chance to cook great food (including
homegrown organic vegetables) over a campfre, while on the lookout
for the Northern Lights. Desperately looking to incorporate some variety
into your next business event? Also note that Ohlers Acres specializes
in hosting retreats and workshops.
contact: (780) 785-3700 or info@ohlersacres.com
research: www.ohlersacres.com
cost: About $500 gets two people a weekend
at Ohlers.
Field notes: If youve never fed a pail of milk to
a calf before, at Ohlers be prepared to witness the
defnition of cute.
contact: (403) 653-1650
or vacations@rangeviewranch.com
research: www.abworkranch.com
cost: About $175 per day, per person.
Field notes: At Rangeview, youll develop skills
well beyond standard nose to tail trail riding.
Prairie Gardens and
Greenhouses, Bon Accord
One of the more ambitious operations dotting
Albertas landscape, Prairie Gardens and Green-
houses has an abundance of attractions
throughout the year. Gardeners visit to learn
about perennials and purchase plants and seeds.
Gourmands drop in to buy fruit and vegetables.
Families opt for Prairie Gardens to get the kids
away from the Xbox for a day. No one is disap-
pointed. Tam Anderson, owner and Director
of Fun says children in particular fnd the trip
to be magical.
Its a really great frst-hand opportunity to
be in the feld, to have their feet on the soil and
learn how to pick a pea, says Anderson. Youd
be surprised how many children havent had
the opportunity and have no concept how to
correctly go about it. And when they dig a potato
out of the ground, its just like they found real
gold down there.
And potatoes and peas are just the begin-
ning. Besides learning about, picking, buying
and eating great fresh food, the farm is home to
other such cool family events as the corn maze
in late summer and early fall, and the Haunted
Pumpkin Festival in October.
Fruitland Getaway, Thorsby
As with many farms, Fruitland Getaway, near
Thorsby, offers a chance to witness how live-
stock is raised and handled, along with other
aspects of everyday farming. With an Alberta
government-sanctioned Environmental Farm
Plan in place, its clear Fruitland operates
according to environmentally sustainable
farming methods. What sets it apart is that
Fruitland Getaway is as much a museum as a
farm. Visitors can witness old-time threshing
demonstrations, check out an old-time black-
smiths shop or schoolhouse, take a buggy ride,
stay overnight in a 1930s-era tea house (limit
one couple at a time) and view countless arti-
facts from a bygone era.
People are just overwhelmed with what we
do out here, says Charlene Gitzel, co-owner of
Fruitland Getaway. Weve been given so many
donations of antique equipment because we
try to keep a lot of the history and old methods
alive.
Sometimes youll see a hybrid of the past
and present. Guests are welcome to help feed
the cattle in the feld by hitching the Gitzels
horse-drawn wagon to a hand-built round
bale spreader, which is a decidedly more
modern device. School groups are welcome,
but tour organizers need to call ahead.
contact: (780) 921-2272 or info@prairiegardens.org
research: www.prairiegardens.org
cost: Festival admission averages between $8 to $10
per person. Produce prices from the U-pick or the
counter vary.
Field notes: Prairie Gardens is strictly a day trip.
Start out early and call ahead for a guarantee of ripe
produce availability.
contact: (780) 789-4010,
cell (780) 991-0717 or gitzel@telus.net
research: No website
cost: Day visitors are encouraged
to make a donation of $7.50 per person.
An overnight stay in the tea house costs
$65 per couple.
Field notes: Fruitlands complete
wedding package has proven popular
at a mere $145.
red deer river ranches, Sundre
Ford rivers on horseback, just like in the movies, at Red Deer River
Ranches. This 50,000-acre ranch comprises properties once held
by several different ranchers. Youll fnd a true cowboy experience
here. And you can fsh, heli-picnic, whitewater raft and view wildlife,
such as large bands of wild Alberta horses.
The ranch, about an hour and a half northwest of Calgary, also
welcomes hunters from Alberta and abroad, co-ordinating guides
and licensing for the latter. It offers a variety of rustic bunkhouses
and cabins that sleep from two to eight people.
contact: 1-866-638-4226 or info@reddeerriverranches.com
research: www.reddeerriverranches.com
cost: Prices vary according to the cabin, from $62 per night for
a smaller, more rustic place, to $265 per night for something that
sleeps more bodies and has a toilet.
Field notes: Guests must supply their own food, but most
quarters have kitchens.
Mcleod creek Farm, Gibbons
Like most working farms, theres plenty of livestock at
McLeod Creek Farm. But this 25-year-old operation is
notable for its specialization in rare breeds. Current rare
and endangered species, now found at the farm, include:
Guinea fowl, pilgrim geese, production rouen ducks,
Indian runner ducks, utility Embden geese, Shetland sheep,
Jacobs sheep, Lac La Croix Indian ponies, and
Dexter (miniature) Cattle. The farm also breeds, trains
and sells Shetland ponies. Visitors can get close to many
of these animals, but this is no mere petting zoo. Depend-
ing on when you drop by, youll witness the work going
into the day-to-day operation of this farm.
If youre there on the right day it could be the birthing
of an animal, shearing, hoof trimming or any of the basic
maintenance a livestock operation requires, says owner
Rick Milligan.
Visitors have the option of making their foray to McLeod
Creek Farm a day trip or an overnight stay providing
theyre prepared to camp. The farms fully functional
creek-side campground is RV-friendly with electricity,
private showers, picnic shelters, a meeting hall and many
other features. As the farm is a popular destination for
school and bus tours, Milligan strongly advises pre-booking.
contact: (780) 921-2490
or mcfarm@albertacom.com
research: www.mcleodcreekfarm.com
cost: Rates range from $5 per person for
day trips to $20 for overnight camping.
Field notes: The farm is a popular desti-
nation for school and bus tours, so Milligan
strongly advises booking ahead.
contact: (403) 224-3082
or info@redlodgeoutftters.com
research: New website
in the making
cost: From $45 to $85 per
night, per cabin. Best deal
is the Guest Ranch Package,
including accommodation,
meals, horses and (assuming
you want it) genuine cattle
ranching work experience
for $150 day per person.
RV parking is $20.
red lodge Guest
ranch, Bowden
Harnessing a team of horses and
learning to rope from horseback
are just many of the typical ranch
duties you can try at Red Lodge
Working Ranch.
Guests come to ride horses,
mainly, but they dont have to ride.
Some of them help with the feed-
ing, or just hang out, watch and
enjoy themselves, says Wendy
Bradshaw, who owns the ranch
with husband Dale.
The ranch is fully equipped
with a hall and a kitchen to handle
large gatherings, such as family
reunions or weddings, and a res-
taurant on site. Sixteen cabins sleep
three to eight people, with separate
fully equipped shower and bath-
room facilities. Large groups are
asked to bring their own bedding,
but Bradshaw adds that she has
bedding for travellers who happen
along or come from abroad. And
they come from such countries as
New Zealand, Japan, Sweden and
elsewhere.
contact: (403) 335-8264
or info@thebloomingfelds.com
research: www.thebloomingfelds.com
cost: Course calendars are available online and
courses cost about $25 to $35 per person.
Field notes: The farm opens on May 2, but you can
book the teahouse year-round for private functions for
as many as 45 people.
contact: (403) 625-4032 or shaunere@telus.net
research: www.browncreekranchvacations.com
cost: A simple bed-and-breakfast package costs
$145 for two. A full weekend package is $980 for two.
Field notes: For dinner, expect plenty of beef,
some wine and organically grown vegetables right
from the Lanes garden.
the Blooming Fields, Didsbury
Making for an excellent day trip, the Blooming Fields has
plenty to offer. Whether youre after U-pick treats, such as
carrots, lettuce, beans, strawberries and currants (to name
just a few), your own personal harvest awaits. Other visitors
come to select trees and shrubs from the nursery.
Owned and operated by a certifed forist and a certifed
landscaper Mary-Ann and Pim van Oeveren, The Blooming
Fields offers courses in fower arrangement and acreage man-
agement, easily accessible to Calgary residents. When youre
done, have lunch or a snack in the tea house. Or drop by just
to dine on hearty, homegrown, home-cooked fare. The van
Oeverens offer meals made from local produce and meat.
Tours and lectures generally come free with your visit.
Group packages, including weddings, can be arranged.
Costs vary depending on what you pick or purchase,
so phone in advance.
Meet the lane family
Brown Creek Ranch is the kind of ranchland you normally
only see in movies such as Brad Pitts Legends of the Fall
or Kevin Costners Open Range. Until youve actually
set foot in a place like this one, nestled in the Porcupine
Hills just west of Claresholm, youre not sure if it really,
truly exists. Shaunere (pronounced SHAWN-a-ree)
Lane, knows what a jaw-dropper her home is.
More than once Ive literally seen people get out
of their cars, stand in the driveway, do a three-sixty turn with
their arms held out, and just smile, says Lane, adding
that guests from more congested countries, such as the
UK and Holland, are the ones most taken with the wide
open spaces that surround them.
In the last two years, Brown Creek Ranch has won
both the provincial and national Environmental Steward-
ship Awards from Alberta Beef Producers and the Canadian
Cattlemens Association respectively. Credit for the currently
pristine, self-replenishing grassland and lush, tree-lined
waterways snaking across the 1,360-acre ranch, not to
mention the naturally-raised, grass-fed cattle dotting the
rolling hillsides, belongs at least in part to the Lanes.
Canadian media have been quick to hold the Lanes up
as a shining example of environmentally friendly ranching
methods and its charming the way husband, Brian Lane,
responds in true, soft-spoken shucks, it werent nothing
cowboy style. But when it comes to the international reputa-
tion of Albertas cattle industry and the food it provides,
Shauneres hand-built log guesthouse is likely just as
important in spreading the word. Sure, guests inevitably
return home as emissaries of Alberta beef. But when they
frst arrive, theyre simply in need of a great vacation and,
on that front, Brown Creek Ranch delivers.
Although the guesthouse holds as many as seven
people, its plenty cozy for a couple wanting a weekend
stay. This could mean a simple B&B visit or a full-weekend
package, including range riding, three meals and plenty
of extras, such as local tours. Shaunere looks after all the
meals herself. And theres plenty of food, she says.
I dont let anyone leave the table hungry.
000.ABMilk_FP_wBL.indd 1 1/30/08 5:00:25 PM
H
ow attracted are you to the organic aisle at
your local grocery store? If youre like other
Alberta consumers, youre venturing down it more often
than ever. Organic food consumption is on the rise. Thats
the message coming out of research from the Department
of Rural Economy, Faculty of Agricultural, Life and Environ-
mental Sciences, University of Alberta. The university, in
conjunction with Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada
Consumer and Market Demand Agriculture Policy
Research Network, has recently looked at why shoppers
are increasingly opting for organic.
How many organic producers are there in Canada?
A 2004 report by Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada (AAFC)
identifed 3,134 certifed organic producers, representing
a little over one per cent of all farms. Saskatchewan has the
highest number of certifed producers (1,049), followed by
Quebec (610), Ontario (487) and British Columbia (420).
How big is the organics market?
In 2007, the Canadian certifed organic food market was
worth approximately $1 billion. Grocery stores sales account-
ed for $586 million, smaller stores for $175 million, large nat-
ural food stores for $330 million, delivery for $20 million,
direct sales (farmers market) for $50-65 million, and restau-
rants and food service for $10 million.
The organics industry is growing fast in Calgary, agrees
Shawn Peters, grocery manager at the Calgary Shaganappi
outlet of Planet Organic. Its not just the green movement,
but the emergence of allergies and other health concerns, that
may be drawing people to stores like ours.
Are organic products becoming mainstream?
Most stores are realizing the potential of organics and are
developing their own lines, says Peters. Organics is not
going away. The research supports him. According to a 2007
survey, a quarter of all members in most age groups have
tried organic foods. Moreover, about 30 per cent, of people
with post-secondary degrees have tried organic foods. People
in British Columbia have tried an organic product more
often than other Canadians: 33 per cent compared to 20 per
cent in other regions.
Organic
Goes MAinstreAM
What are the most popular organic products?
Produce is number one, along with dairy, says Peters, of
his experience at Planet Organic. And nearly a quarter of
Canadians have purchased organic produce. Fresh produce
accounted for $157 million or 38 per cent of all the certifed
organic foods sold through the grocery channel of supermar-
kets. Soya drinks, yogurt and milk are important categories.
Although raw meat is a relatively small market ($3 million),
its growing, showing gains of 81 per cent from 2005 to 2006.
Organic poultry accounts for more than 60 per cent and beef
for nearly 40 per cent of the total organic raw meat.
And organic grains are also becoming more important,
says Peters. We have a signifcant base of shoppers in Alberta
with food sensitivities or allergies, such as people with Celiac
disease.
Why are Albertans eating organic foods?
It depends who you talk to. One study examined how willing
Edmonton area consumers were to pay premium prices for
organic wheat bread. If they werent able to taste the bread,
respondents willingness to pay increased when environmen-
tal information was provided, more so than when they
looked at health information. However, when consumers
could actually taste the product, the health information
became more important.
That means that successful marketing of organic products
depends on circumstances. Health claims for organic prod-
ucts became more important when the product could be
tasted. It doesnt surprise Peters. Health is closer at hand,
and tackling the environment may seem more like a philo-
sophical issue. So when shoppers can taste a product, theyd
be more apt to make that health connection.
Funding is made available through the Agriculture and Food
Council, which is responsible for delivering Agriculture and
Agri-Food Canadas Advancing Canadian Agriculture and
Agri-Food (ACAAF) Program in Alberta
Stores specializing in organics are everywhere, and most large chains
are coming out with their own lines. Whats in Albertas shopping cart?
Readtheoriginalpapersonlineat
www.growingalberta.com.
www.growingalberta.com 23
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Backcountry Best
Welcome to Skoki Lodge, a view with a room and a kitchen. Only this one has
no electricity or running water Story and Photography by Ewan Nicholson
Skoki Lodge and Katie Mitzel are a rather delicious com-
bination. Katie is Skokis chef and her kitchen wizardry in
this backcountry haven is adding to the lodges legend. Skoki,
constructed in 1930, was the frst backcountry ski lodge in
the Rockies and has been linked to many of the Rockies
renowned pioneers.
Katie has worked at Skoki since 1998, and was promoted
to chef in 1999 after winning a cook-off: her competition
cooked the frst night and she cooked to victory on the sec-
ond. It was my bread that clinched it for me, she confdes,
a wry smile breaking across her face. Lodge managers since
2003, Katie and her husband, Leo, clearly relish the responsi-
bility of taking over the reins at Skoki. Their philosophy, that
guests deserve to have the best of the best, is wowing new
visitors and inspiring others to return.
Katies genius in the kitchen is important to Skoki Lodges
clients, as they typically arrive very hungry. They access the
lodge by crossing the 11 kilometres, two passes and 500 verti-
cal metres that lie between Skoki and the shuttle bus drop-off
at Lake Louise Mountain Resorts Temple Lodge. Summer
hikers and winter snowshoers or skiers arrive at Skoki tired
and hungry from their three- to fve-hour trek. Katie and her
staff make a point of rewarding their guests investment in
calories, perspiration and the occasional blister. Its a reward
that I had the opportunity to appreciate.
Standing on top of Deception Pass, with Skoki Lodge
nestling in the valley below, Im tired and defnitely peckish.
With my 60-pound pack pressing me on, I zoom scarily
down to the lodge. Im greeted by a cheery Katie, who pro-
vides me with a fantastic mid-afternoon tea of hearty Alberta
butternut squash soup, bread and baked goodies. I dive in,
24 foodfOrthoughtspring 2008
confdent that after my 2,530 calorie, 225-min-
ute odyssey I neednt worry about spoiling my
appetite for dinner.
At 7 p.m., the food bell rings and I join 14
other guests, assembling in the rustic dining
room for dinner. Katies description of the meal
elicits a spontaneous round of applause two
thirds of our group ate here last night and so
have an inkling of whats to come.
Each Katie Mitzel dinner follows a basic
menu of meat, two vegetable dishes, a starch, a
large salad, fancy bread and a dessert. But theres
nothing basic about the food. Katie prefers not
to follow recipes and is constantly recreating her
dishes; her meals are truly original and mouth-
wateringly exquisite. Our tarragon chicken with
oven-roasted vegetables, rosemary potatoes,
Katies squashakopitas, coarse salt and hearty
caraway bread meets with universal approval.
Dessert is chocolate cake, a confection of
whipped cream, sugar and Bernard Callebaut
chocolate.
After dinner, Leo introduces three other
staff members and recounts stories of the lodges
history and colourful characters. Then he intro-
duces Katie, and shes met by standing ovation.
Later in the evening, a fellow guest remarks,
I dont know that Ive had a restaurant meal that
was better.
Comments like these dont go to Katies head.
I just believe people deserve the best, she says.
And thats what I try to accomplish every day.
Katies culinary achievements are more
remarkable when you consider that shes the sole
chef in a kitchen 11 kilometres from the nearest
road. There is no running water here, and only
occasional electricity. An emergency trip for
supplies is a minimum three-hour round trip.
If the weathers bad, the journey can take eight
hours or not happen at all. In the winter, Katie
does her grocery shopping every Sunday by call-
ing Sysco, the Resorts of the Canadian Rockies
food supplier. Her order is delivered to Lake
Louise Mountain Resort on Monday morning,
and loaded into insulated containers for the
snowmobile trip to Skoki. In summer it takes
longer; the groceries arrive by horse.
Its planning, she explains. I have to stay
one step ahead. Water is supplied the tradition-
al way hauled from the river, 20 gallons at a
time. Before work, Katie prepares wash water,
as she cant turn a tap to clean her hands. She
whips, whisks, blends and dices by hand. The
supply of solar electricity is limited, and she
avoids using the generator for fear of disturbing
Photo aLbuM:
Katie Mitzels meals
are gourmet and
heavy on the Alberta
ingredients. Sitting
down to dinner in the
lodge is unforgettable
2 large butternut
squash, peeled and
cubed
3 Tbsp garam masala
3/4 (180 mL) cup butter, melted
salt and pepper
to taste
1 package phyllo pastry,
thawed if frozen
liquid Alberta
honey, to taste
Preheat oven to 350f (175C). Peel and
cube squash; roast on a cookie sheet for
45 minutes to 1 hour, until tender. In a
large bowl, toss roasted cubes with 1/4
cup (125 mL) of the butter, garam masala,
and salt and pepper to taste. Mash by
hand using a potato masher or use an
electric mixer to blend until well com-
bined, but still slightly lumpy. Set aside.
Unwrap the phyllo on a clean, dry work
surface and cut the whole stack length-
wise into thirds. Keep the phyllo covered
with a barely damp tea towel as you
remove one strip at a time and brush
each side lightly with butter. Place about
1 Tbsp (30 mL) of the squash mixture at
one end of the phyllo strip, and fold one
corner over, creating a triangle. Continue
folding the strip, maintaining the triangle
shape, as if you were folding a flag.
Place each filled triangle on a cookie
sheet lined with parchment paper and
bake for 25-30 minutes, until golden
brown. Drizzle with honey and serve
immediately. Makes about 4 dozen.
Per SqUaShaKOPITa: 58 CaLOrIeS, 3. 4 g faT
(1.9 g SaTUraTeD, 0.9 g MOnOUnSaTUraTeD,
0. 4 g POLyUnSaTUraTeD), 0. 8 g PrOTeIn, 6.3 g
CarbOhyDraTe, 7. 8 Mg ChOLeSTerOL, 0. 2 g
fIber. 52% CaLOrIeS frOM faT.
Skoki SquaShakopitaS
Katie Mitzel uses sweet alberta butternut squash for her star
creation. She says theyre easy and a definite crowd pleaser. Try them
at your place, with salad for dinner, or as finger food appetizers.
b
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u
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!
!
d
p
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t
f rom
our hands to yours
Print Copy
$
15
.00
(inc. GST)
or CD Copy
$
10
.00
(inc. GST)
Call toll-free 1-877-682-2153
email: foundation@4hab.com website: www.4h.ab.ca
Growing Alberta is proud to partner with Alberta 4-H in
the release of the first edition Cookbook
ALBERTA COOKS
from our hands to yours
We salute all of the agriculture organizations that contributed
so willingly to our project and have provided these taste-
tempting recipes for you to try! We encourage you to seek
out Albertas local products as you fill your kitchens with the
aroma of home-cooked meals!
#
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Celebrating Albertas
Agriculture & Food Industry
000.4HCookbook_1-2H_nBL.indd 1 1/30/08 4:55:13 PM
Skokis get-away-from-it-all atmosphere.
Even 33 days into what will be a 40-day stint,
Katie is endlessly upbeat and full of energy, keen
to ski and play with her children (Grayson, 4,
and Isabella, 2) on her afternoon break. It seems
she never tires.
Later that night, at 10 p.m., I fnd her in the
kitchen. Shes chatting and laughing with her
staff and a couple of guests whove poked their
heads in, and theres music playing. Cooking
music is important, she says. She pauses, and
surveying the kitchen around her, says, I prefer to
cook here and adapt, than to be anywhere else.
Maybe on her days off shell get a chance to
start work on that cookbook shes been contem-
plating with encouragement from Skokis
guests. While Katie rarely follows a recipe, the
rest of us could learn a lot from her inspiration.
When it comes to baking, she says, Always obey
the golden rule of bread: love your bread and it
will love you back.
After contemplative whiskies by the fre, I walk
up the creakiest stairs in lodge history to the haven
of my simple room. It has a small window and bat-
tery-powered lantern. The skiing, food, nightcap
and quiet ensure a deep sleep.
The remainder of my stay is a blur of won-
derful food, skiing and freside banter. High-
lights: triple-A Alberta beef tenderloin and an
exhausting ski tour to Merlin Ridge.
After an extraordinary egg souff for break-
fast, its almost time to pack up. I fnd Katie in
the kitchen, of course, starting prep for dinner.
A bunch of hungry skiers is scheduled to arrive
this afternoon.
Pushing some errant dark blonde hair from
her forehead with the back of her wrist, she tells
me shes making pork tenderloin, the very dish
that she prepared for the head-to-head cook-off
to become Skokis chef.
After Ive readied my gear, Katie comes out to
say goodbye, standing in the snowy entrance of
the lodge. I ski off and, looking back, I catch a
last glimpse of Skoki Lodge and Katie Mitzel,
a delicious combination.

Skoki Lodges trailhead is located
just east of the village of Lake
Louise, in Banf National Park. Its
about 184 kilometres (115 miles)
west of Calgary and 60 kilometres
(36 miles) west of the town of
Banf. To book your getaway call
Resorts of the Canadian Rockies
at 1-877-822-7669 or e-mail
info@skircr.com, or www.
skoki.com
Gear guide: If you need equip-
ment for your trip, contact Wilson
Mountain Sports in Lake Louise at
1-866-929-3636 or visit www.lake-
louisewilsons.com
time out: It takes about three
to fve hours to walk, ski or snow-
shoe in to Skoki, so pack a lunch.
The trip is not guided but the
route is well marked in winter and
has a very clear path in summer.
Winter activities: The trails
and slopes around Skoki provide
lots of opportunity for Nordic
touring, snowshoeing, telemark-
ing and alpine touring. The latest
avalanche conditions can be
found at www.avalanche.ca.
Relaxing by the fre is always a
good idea and there are plenty of
books and board games to keep
you occupied.
Summer activities: Many of
the peaks around Skoki can be
easily scrambled and there are
many trails, lakes and alpine
meadows to explore. A National
Park Fishing Permit is required
before you can fsh in the park.
Check the Parks Canada site at
www.pc.gc.ca to fnd out all the
details. No mountain biking is
allowed near Skoki.
If you go
As a consulting dietician at the Alberta Winter Games
in February, I did my best to help shift the dietary focus of
the 2,800 developing athletes, coaches and offcials working
in 24 sports. In the months leading up to the games, I spoke
to Canadian Olympic Speed Skater, Jeremy Wotherspoon,
about the dietary keys to his success. I developed nutrition
plans and menus and I felded questions from young athletes.
Here are some of their most common questions.
Q: Does food choice really matter?
A: Nutrition is critical to the optimal energy you need to
keep up with high training volumes, achieve and maintain
a healthy body composition and reduce the risk of injury
and illness. Healthy eating has had a signifcant role in
my success, agrees skater Wotherspoon. It affects how
you feel each day for training, competition and especially
in how quickly you recover.
Q: Why all the hype about hydration?
A: The body is made up of as much as 60 per cent water,
and muscles are more 70 per cent water. Athletes, along
with everyone else, need water for digestion, absorption
of nutrients along with elimination of waste. Water lubricates
joints, eyes and air passages as well as cooling you off as
you sweat. Keeping well hydrated is important, no matter
what sport you do, Wotherspoon says. Your muscles work
better. Pack a water bottle, otherwise you wont remember
to drink enough.
Q: Why is the recovery meal so important?
A: If you dont eat enough, says Wotherspoon, youll
recover slowly and have more muscle breakdown. Hes right.
The recovery meal is critical, especially after a long, intense
workout. Rest and eat to restock muscles with carbohydrates,
repair muscle tissue with protein, re-hydrate and top up
needed vitamins and minerals. Within 15 minutes post-
sport, reach for a source of carbs, such as a juice box, fruit,
granola bar or chocolate milk. Then follow it up with
a balanced meal later.
Q: What are some good bets for recovery meals?
A: Eat within two hours after working out. Try these meals:
1. A baked potato, chili, salad, with yogurt and berries for
dessert. 2. A stir-fry with veggies, and lean beef or tofu, glass
of milk and fruit. 3. A bagel with peanut butter, raw carrots,
protein shake with a banana. 4. Pasta and meat (or ground
turkey) sauce and raw veggies and dip. 5. An omelet with
veggies and cheese, orange juice and a muffn. 6. A sub with
sliced chicken, veggies and cheese, followed by dried berries
and chocolate milk.
Q: What should you eat before training or competing?
A: The timing and type of food varies depending on the
sport and individual tolerance. Generally, eat a meal between
two and four hours before training or competing. Carbohy-
drates found in foods such as grains, cereals, breads, fruits
and veggies should supply the main part of a pre-sport meal.
Theyre quick to digest, and provide energy for working
muscles. Eat a small amount of protein at the same time
to sustain energy and fullness. High-protein foods include
meat, peanut butter, dairy, and eggs. But limit high fat
and high fbre foods before a workout they may cause
stomach upset.
For more sports nutrition information, visit the Alberta
Winter Games site at www.2008albertawintergames.com.
Premium Fuel
Whether you are an elite athlete, recreational runner or new to exercise, the way
you eat can help you succeed Story by Andrea Holwegner Photograph by Colin Way
Juggling ACt: Jeremy Wotherspoon gets ready to fuel up
S
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ki tchen: Nicole
Kammerer, here making
mini burgers, says you
dont have to sweat the
small stuf. See page
50 for her Asparagus
Risotto recipe
A Catered Affair
t
Ask yourself some honest questions to find out when you
should DIY and when to seek professional help
StoRy By Julie VAn RosendAAl
PhotograPhyby John GAucheR
he spring thaw does more than draw us
out of our parkas. Its warmth defrosts our social
lives, which have been in hibernation since the
holidays. Spring is the time to plan parties.
Showers and weddings are especially popular at
this time of year, and patio season is not far off.
As your guest list grows, you might feel nervous
about prepping and serving food and drinks for
so many. So what to do take on the sometimes
complicated coordination and preparation
yourself, or call in a professional?
Its a Saturday afternoon and I fnd myself
perched on a stool in the corner of the commer-
cial kitchen that professional chef Nicole Kam-
merer recently built for her successful catering
business, called Nicole Gourmet. Shes multi-
tasking assembling hors doeuvres for a
cocktail party and showing an assistant how to
make a creamy horseradish sauce.
In terms of job stress, catering is up there
with air traffc controller and kindergarten
teacher. Id be a tad more anxious if I was pre-
paring exotic fnger foods for 40, but Kammerer
is unruffed and chats easily, even though she
has been prepping since 8:30 a.m. and was up
until 10 p.m. last night, seamlessly pulling off a
plated sit-down dinner for 22.
No big deal, she says nonchalantly. Sit
down meals arent as fnicky as hors doeuvres.
The thought of timing a multi-course meal for
22 makes me feel dizzy, but this is exactly why
people like me hire caterers. After all, pros such
as Kammerer do this every day.
Classically trained at Vancouvers Dubrulle
Culinary School, she apprenticed in Paris. Upon
returning to Canada, she was the frst female
chef hired by chef David Hawksworth at the
high-end restaurant West, in Vancouver. After
West, she worked her way up to sous-chef at
Catch, a chic downtown Calgary restaurant.
Most recently, she held the position of executive
chef at Calgarys Mercato Italian Market. So,
unlike some of us, Kammerer isnt about to
scorch her bchamel because shes trying to vac-
uum the living room while attempting to coax a
toddler off her leg and simultaneously get
dressed before the company arrives.
Unlike those charged with actually hosting a
party, caterers like Kammerer focus solely on
the menu, food service and sometimes bartend-
ing. Having an enormous kitchen with walk-in
fridges, stainless steel tables and a fancy steam-
injected oven that will cook a 12-pound turkey
in an hour doesnt hurt either. Kammerer stops
assembling her Peking duck salad rolls to give
me a quick demo of her new toy.
What it does to the meat I cant tell you, she
says, as eager a carnivore as I am. The oven
>>
continuously measures its cabin environment,
adjusting temperature and humidity.
On the stainless steel table beside her are
trays of miniature buns, baked to a buttery gold,
destined to be stuffed with Thai pork burger
patties.
I like to make everything myself, from
scratch, Kammerer says as she deftly soaks rice
paper wrappers and flls four at a time with ten-
der shredded duck, slivered cucumber, spring
onions and rice noodles. She spoons hoisin
sauce over one and hands it to me, most likely in
an attempt to slow down my barrage of ques-
tions. That way I can be sure everything is fresh
and just right.
This attention to detail extends even to the
tiny tomatoes, still on the vine, that she has
oven-dried herself, and which occupy an entire
shelf in one of several fridges. When it comes to
ingredients, Kammerer sources it all out herself,
hand-picking produce at Crossroads Market just
down the street in Ramsay, one of Calgarys old-
est neighbourhoods. Her walk-in fridge is load-
ed with local goods: goat Gouda from Sylvan
Star, Valta bison, Spring Creek Ranch beef, and
chicken and pork from Rocky Mountain Game
Meats. Most of my meat comes from local pro-
ducers. She hands me a bag of small, frm Agria
potatoes from Poplar Bluff Farms. You have
Caterers can deliver the
inside scoop on the good
stuff produce and
products that may not
have reached the masses.
to try these, theyre amazing. Take them home
for dinner.
Besides being an enthusiastic supporter of
local products, Kammerer is a savvy entrepre-
neur, extending her culinary services beyond
the parties that keep most caterers in business.
She offers in-house cooking classes, which often
end in a sit-down dinner.
Her newest endeavour caters to the same
busy Calgarians who have made gourmet-to-go
a booming business. Nicole Gourmets Deliv-
ered Dinners take convenience a step further
right to a clients door. Theres no need to wait
for a special occasion to hire a caterer. Her
clients can have a meal of, say, silky asparagus
soup with lemon mascarpone cream ($6 per
person) and 12-hour wine-braised Spring Creek
beef short ribs, served with caulifower gratin
and roasted garlic potato pure ($16 per person)
on a regular weeknight.
Its simple Kammerer sends a weekly menu
by e-mail, her clients place an order by noon
Sunday, and by Monday afternoon their meals
are delivered, labelled with reheating instruc-
tions. Every Delivered Dinner arrives in appli-
ance-safe Pyrex; all clients have to do is throw it
back in the bin she provides, and shell pick it
up. Delivered Dinner clients receive a weekly
logbook with space to comment on food prefer-
ences and dietary needs.
Most of my clients are regulars, and many are
elderly or ill, she told me. Others are just busy.
Whether planning weekly meals, an intimate
gathering or full-blown event, when hiring a
caterer you generally have the freedom to cus-
tomize your menu. Edmonton chef and caterer
Brad Smoliak agrees. Every menu is different,
he says. I like my guests to feel that Im cooking
just for them. That personal service is not a
stretch, when event circumstances vary so
greatly. Some people might consider such an
inconsistent working environment stressful,
but Smoliak sees the constant fux as exciting
opportunities for culinary creativity.
I have the best job in Edmonton. I get to
witness anniversaries, engagements, milestone
birthday parties, and everyones always happy.
Its a great working environment, Smoliak says.
One of the most familiar chefs in the city, Smo-
liak has cooked for hockey players, celebrities,
and even royalty, including Prince Albert of
Monaco and Queen Elizabeth.
He served Prince Albert a brunch of New
Orleans Eggs Benedict crab cakes topped with
poached eggs and cayenne-spiked hollandaise,
with potato-andouille sausage hash. The Queen
dined on mixed feld greens with a wild berry
vinaigrette, lamb loin, mushroom ragout,
seven-vegetable saut, and roasted potato. And
Smoliak treated her like, well, royalty when he
served honey mousse in a Bernard Callebeaut
chocolate cup for dessert.
Theyve all been great experiences, Smoliak
reminisces, but my most memorable story is of
cooking for a lady who planned her own 40th
birthday party. As a surprise, her husband had
her mother fy over from England. And then
her brother, who was in the British Military,
stationed in Iraq, few in to surprise her as well.
It was truly a great evening.
Kammerers most memorable gig differs.
Once, she was asked to cook a full-on medieval
dinner, for which she had to do some back-
ground research in order to accurately represent
the theme. Dinner luckily consisted of more
than potatoes, was heady with spices such as
cardamom and fennel, and she was required to
dress up as a serving wench to dish it out.
Flexibility, paired with an understanding of
what works and what doesnt, is one of the bene-
fts of hiring a caterer. With their experience,
professionals can recommend appropriate menu
ideas or themes you may not have considered.
I suggested to one client that we do tapas
(the Spanish term for a series of fnger foods or
small plates) instead of having a formal sit-down
dinner, to create a more informal, social eve-
ning, says Smoliak. It was a huge success.
Likewise, Kammerers hors doeuvres menu fea-
tures such delicacies as warm Forest Mushroom
Cappuccino Shooters (latte foam, porcini dust),
Caprese Platters and Beef Carpaccio Pita Chips
with pine nut pesto and baby arugula not
menu items youd attempt yourself or fnd in the
freezer section of a grocery store.
Besides original menu ideas, caterers can
deliver the inside scoop on the good stuff pro-
duce and products that may not have reached
the masses. At Kuhlmanns Market Gardens,
Mrs. K makes the best sauerkraut known to
man, Smoliak says. He is also a fan of Lola
Canola Honey in Bon Accord, Greens Eggs and
Ham (Leduc suppliers of produce and poultry)
hiRe A cAteReR: Make the
call if youre at risk of not enjoy-
ing your own event because
youre too stressed about
preparing and serving all that
food, keeping it warm, and
cleaning up afterward.
If your event will involve
more guests than you have
plates, cutlery or serving dishes,
or you will require an outdoor
tent, additional tables or other
extras, a full service caterer will
handle it all for you.
Do it yourself: there
are techniques to make self-
catering easier. Many foods can
be prepared ahead of time and
frozen or stored in the fridge.
the favours of most dips and
sauces actually improve
overnight. Meats such as pork,
chicken and beef can be sliced
into strips and frozen in
marinade for three months,
then thawed, threaded onto
bamboo skewers and quickly
grilled or broiled for satay.
Chef Brad Smoliak suggests
chopping and dicing the day
before a big event. I like to
blanch my vegetables the day
before, and then its just a
simple reheat.
dont AVoid
pRe-pRepped: Some things
can be purchased already made,
such as tubs of bruschetta,
sliced salami and prosciutto
and dried fgs from an Italian
market, hummus, pita and pista-
chios from a Mediterranean
market, or desserts from a good
bakery. Buying ready-made is
not an admission of defeat.
Pita chips and crostini can
be baked a day in advance and
kept in an airtight container.
other breads, such as buns or
baguettes, should be purchased
the morning of an event.
dont oVeR oR undeR
pRepARe: For a cocktail party,
Chef Nicole Kammerer
plan ahead
continued opposite
sign-up online: www.eggs.ab.ca
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Discover the VERSATILITY of eggs with two new newsleters from the Alberta
Egg Producers. Each newsleter features seasonal recipes, crafs, and more!
000.ABEggs_1-3H_nBL.indd 1 1/30/08 9:38:37 AM
and Sparrows Nest produce of Edmonton.
Smoliaks catering advice mirrors Kammer-
ers: for a stress-free event, make like a Girl
Guide and Be Prepared. Its important to be
detail-oriented, so that you dont forget any-
thing, he says. Full service caterers, such as
Smoliak and Kammerer, take care of details you
may not have considered: dishes, serving plat-
ters, glasses and cutlery, for example, or bar sup-
plies and a bartender to mix and serve drinks.
I do a lot of the cooking for clients in their
homes, as opposed to coming with food already
prepared, ready to be reheated, Smoliak says.
6 lbs (2.75 kg) baby back pork ribs
1 head garlic
1/3 cup (80 mL) sweet paprika
1/4 cup (60 mL) ground cumin
2 tbsp (30 mL) dried oregano
1 1/3 cups (330 mL) red wine vinegar
1/2 cup(125 mL) canola oil
1/4 cup (60 mL) honey
3 cups (750 mL) water
Preheat the oven or barbecue to 300f
(150C). Season the ribs with salt and pepper
and either grill or roast in the oven until golden
brown on each side, about 10 minutes. Set
aside in a roasting pan.
In the bowl of a food processor, process the
garlic, paprika, cumin, oregano and 1/3 cup of
the vinegar until smooth. Add the remaining
vinegar and process to a smooth paste.
Pork ribs Adobo
Transfer the mixture to a saucepan set over
medium-high heat and add the oil, honey and
water. Bring to a rolling boil and then pour the
mixture over the ribs. Cover with a lid or foil,
return to the oven or place in the barbecue and
braise for 2 hours.
Check the ribs to ensure they are tender.
Drain braising liquid and reserve, removing as
much fat from the liquid as possible. Place the
ribs directly on the barbecue and grill to warm
through and caramelize the outside, brushing
with the braising sauce. If youd like the braising
sauce to be thicker, reduce it, simmering on the
stovetop. Serve alongside the ribs, for dipping.
Serves 15.
Per ServIng: 775 CAlorIeS, 62 g fAT (20.5 g
SATurATeD fAT, 28.7 g monounSATurATeD fAT,
6.6 g PolyunSATurATeD fAT), 45 g ProTeIn, 9.5 g
CArBohyDrATe, 214 g CholeSTerol, 0. 8 g fIBre.
72% CAlorIeS from fAT.
I like to show up at the house at least an hour
and a half before the guests are scheduled to
arrive in order to get comfortable with the
environment and with any new equipment
I will be working with.
So if organizational skills are essential for
any caterer, theyll come in handy when han-
dling your own function. When youre hosting
the party, the same is true, Smoliak says. Plan
ahead. Have a list, assign specifc tasks such as
setting up the bar, arranging fowers and such.
And dont try to be Martha, he quickly
adds. Remember, she does this for a living!
Chef Brad Smoliak makes these no-fail
treats for customers and friends.
estimates eight to 10 pieces per
person later in the evening;
10 to 15 pieces if guests arrive
between 5 p.m. and 6 p.m., when
theyre hungrier. Smoliaks
estimates are similar; eight to 10
over the dinner hour (between
6 p.m. and 8 p.m.), and six to
eight items per person before
or after.
Make sure you have at least
one vegetarian option, a few
low-fat choices and one wheat-
or dairy-free dish to cover any
dietary restrictions. Make sure
all but a couple of items can be
served cold or at room tempera-
ture, to save yourself running
back and forth from the oven in
an efort to keep things hot.
MAke A toAst: Its not
necessary to stock a full bar.
Plan for two or three drinks per
person, and fll a cooler or tub
with ice and bottles of beer,
sparkling water and white wine.
the red wine can stay on the
countertop. If you want to add
extras, slice lemons and limes,
and mix a batch of sangria,
martinis or another cocktail
thats easy to serve.
If youre having trouble
choosing wines, ask for advice at
your local wine store. Most staf
members are very knowledge-
able and will be able to suggest
suitable food-wine pairings.
The Fun in
Fungus
You may not have heard of it, but Mo-Na food is a
veritable Edmonton culinary institution, and business
is mushrooming
Story by Isabela C. Varela Photography by Kelly Redinger
Michael Avenati has a vivid memory of a trip he took
with family to Italy, decades ago. They were in Cuneo, in the
Piedmont region of Italy, and then-15-year-old Avenati was
in the countryside on the hunt for something exotic and
elusive and he remembers the thrill of the chase.
The object of his pursuit was mushrooms. More specif-
cally, the highly prized porcini mushroom, also known by
the regal name of King Bolete.
We didnt fnd any mushrooms that day, but I remember
going back to the house with my aunts and cousins and eat-
ing a great Italian meal that included dried and preserved
mushrooms, says Avenati, now 45. Later, in my 30s, I was a
member of the Edmonton Mycological Society, and theyd
organize forays around Alberta looking for wild mushrooms.
Whip-thin and boyish, Avenati has the high energy neces-
sary for running a small business. From amateur teen mush-
room hunter to mushroom hobbyist in his 30s, it makes
sense that Avenati, along with partner Rachel Viszmeg, is
now the proud co-owner of Mo-Na Food. The Edmonton-
based business distributes a wide selection of fresh, frozen
and dried wild and domestic mushrooms to restaurants and
food manufacturers.
The Red Ox Inn, Unheardof, Sorrentinos if youve dined
at any of Edmontons most celebrated restaurants, chances
are you have enjoyed Mo-Nas mushrooms. The company has
been around since the mid-1980s, established by Rita and
Otto Holzbauer. They built relationships with restaurants
and food manufacturers that continued through a second set
of owners and are now fourishing under Avenati and
Viszmeg, who bought the business two years ago. And it helps
that the two are committed foodies.
When Mike and Rachel purchased Mo-Na Food, it took
little time for me to discover they were in it because they liked
it, because they had a passion for mushrooms and the food
business, says Lynn Heard, owner of Edmontons Unheardof
Restaurant. They have the attitude people need when theyre
in small business, meaning that they go the extra mile.
Unheardof gets a variety of product from Mo-Na Food,
including wild mushrooms, dried mushrooms and more com-
mon cultivated mushrooms, such as shiitake and crimini.
Heard also turns to Mo-Na for specialty produce, such as
wild berries, fddleheads, sea asparagus and Alberta wild rice.
Many of Mo-Nas mushrooms come from Prairie Mush-
rooms, a family-owned business with a state-of-the art grow-
ing facility in Sherwood Park. It supplies fresh, cultivated
mushrooms such as portabella and crimini to the company.
And Mo-Na also imports mushrooms.
Freshness, quality and diversity are key to Mo-Na Foods
success. Because it supplies restaurants and food manufac-
turers theres no retail side it has to carry the best. It
increased my interest in buying this business when I saw it
was specialty wholesale. It motivates me when Im working
with culinary experts, he explains. And it helps that Rachel
has a long history in virtually all aspects of food service.
Were inspired by the close contact with the restaurant
industry and the food processing and manufacturing indus-
try. The processors are as passionate as the chefs.
Frank Olson, chef and owner of the Red Ox Inn, is
impressed with Mo-Na Foods high standards. Their quality
control is great. They make sure the product they bring in is
in good shape, or else they dont bother passing it on to the
customer.
For the consumer, the best opportunity to sample a range
of Mo-Na Foods farmed and wild mushrooms comes in Sep-
tember, with Sorrentinos Annual Mushroom Harvest. That
month every one of Sorrentinos seven Alberta locations fea-
tures a different signature menu showcasing mushrooms.
In 2007, the Mushroom Harvest tempted palates in
Edmonton, St. Albert, Sherwood Park and Calgary with
more than 100 delectable fungi creations. And most of those
dishes, such as baked macaroni with wild mushrooms and
truffe-infused sea scallops with chanterelle mushrooms,
were made with Mo-Na mushrooms.
We supplied most of their mushrooms, including truffes
from Italy, for their wine and truffe night. To be able to meet
all their needs in 2007 was pretty gratifying, says Avenati.
And what was his favourite dish among the bounty of
tasty concoctions at last years Mushroom Harvest? It was a
mushroom torte, just a nice, simple puff pastry with a wild
mushroom flling. It was stylish in its preparation.
Avenati hopes to be a big part of Sorrentinos Mushroom
Harvest this coming fall, but in the meantime, he and
Viszmeg have plenty to keep them busy. Renovations at the
Must eat mushrooms
Whether you prefer a dark and meaty
portabella mushroom or a white button
mushroom, youll be happy to know
these edible fungi pack some nutritional
punch. Mushrooms add:
Vitamins, such as ribofavin, niacin,
folate, thiamin and vitamin B6
Minerals, including potassium, copper,
phosphorus and selenium
Depth of favour to your cooking, they
are also very low in cholesterol and
carbohydrates, so indulge!
Virtually no calories, fat or sodium
A feeling of satiety (or fullness)
for dieters
Source: www.mushrooms.ca
current location, which dates back to the days of Rita and
Otto Holzbauer, will allow them to have a separate area for
sorting and packaging. This will help us look at new
packaging concepts, right now for the restaurants and the
food service industry, but with the possibility of a retail-type
product line in the future.
The busy mushroom season begins as early as May, once
the wild mushroom harvest gets going, and it lasts into late
summer, when mushroom production, tourism and
increased restaurant activity collide. In late fall and early
winter, theres another peak of wild product sourced in
British Columbia. Mo-Na counts on farmed mushrooms
year-round, but wild mushrooms are unpredictable.
Thats whats so mysterious about the wild mushroom,
says Avenati. Mushrooms have grown to be kind of a
mystical product for me. Wild
mushrooms have an allure
because they can be so elusive.
You never know when or even if
youll fnd them.
But as long as Mo-Na Food
is supplying regional restaurants,
Albertans can count on the prov-
inces best mushrooms being just
a dinner reservation away.
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tI Me to gRoW: Rahel Viszmeg
and Mike Aventai are renovating in
anticipation of new opportunities
Its 10:10 a.m. as I enter a part of Alberta that literally
shines. This is Redcliff, a town that calls itself the Green-
house Capital of the Prairies, located just outside of Medi-
cine Hat in the southeast corner of the province. In an
otherwise typical Alberta town, Redcliff has hundreds
of glass structures, gleaming in the sunlight.
My frst stop is a visit to Red Hat Co-operative Ltd. where
I meet Lyle Aleman, general manager. Red Hat is a venture
that, in 2006, supplied 18 million cucumbers, fve million
kilograms of tomatoes and 1.3 million kilograms of sweet
bell peppers to major grocery stores across Western Canada.
We have cheap natural gas and high levels of sunlight,
says Aleman, explaining how Redcliff has been transformed
into a major hub for fresh, hothouse vegetables. Curious
about how local restaurants take advantage of this bounty,
I ask Aleman to recommend a place to eat. He tells me about
a spot on Main Street where a friend of his stops for a bowl
of soup as a matter of routine.
The frst thing I notice when I walk through the doors
of Cocoa Bean Caf is two teenage boys munching on large
garden salads. This is indeed a strange and wonderful land,
I think. Soon, the owner of the caf, Jeanine Wilson, is at my
table tempting me with a steamy bowl of tomato, tortellini
and meatball soup.
Its all made from scratch, says Wilson. We get the
vegetables from local greenhouses. As I slurp the lovingly
prepared bowl of goodness, Wilson informs me that the
Redcliff/Medicine Hat area is known as a banana belt
because of the abundance of sunlight. Environment Canada
agrees with her, calling Medicine Hat Canadas sunniest
city with more than 2,500 hours of sunshine per year.
Today, like most days, the sun beams brightly as I fnish
my soup and wave goodbye to Wilson before taking the short
drive east to The Hat, a city with a population of more
than 57,000. Inspired by the story of Redcliffs greenhouses
Im ready to discover more local food. A stop at the Zucchini
Blossom Market and Caf does not disappoint. Contem-
porary music plays overhead as customers sip on lattes.
The ambiance is chic bistro. A chalkboard above the service
counter announces that back by popular demand is the
smokin chipotle sandwich.
In addition to a fresh twist on soups and sandwiches,
Zucchini Blossom offers a ready-to-take-home line of foods
including creamy tomato and spinach soup, basil pesto
and Genevieves Hummus, named after a former employee.
Owners Kristine and Jim Dalzell arent in today. No matter,
I am already thoroughly convinced that this region of the
province, better known for natural gas than peppers, has
Never mind the natural gas, the sunny southeastern corner
of Alberta is hothouse heaven for veggie lovers Storyby Wes Lafortune
Take a Shine
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Lush LI fe: Broxburn Gardens is a place of plenty
In 1989, the Alberta and Saskatchewan gov
ernments signed an agreement designating
the Cypress Hills Provincial Parks the frst
Interprovincial park in Canada. Home to
200 species of birds in addition to coyotes,
moose, deer and elk, humans have also been
visiting the Cypress Hills for more than 9,000
years, making this one of the most historically
signifcant locations in the entire country.
The area is also closely linked with the
North West Mounted Police. Formed in 1873,
the NWMP was created partly in response to
the murder of 20 Assiniboine in the Cypress
Hills. They had been targeted by wolf hunters
who blamed them for stealing their horses.
Today, visitors to this unique 2,500
squarekilometre park can experience its
powerful beauty by staying overnight at one
of 11 campgrounds within its boundaries.
For more information about Cypress Hills
Interprovincial Park visit online at www.tprc.
alberta.ca/parks/cypresshills/fndex.asp.
Pretty plateau
T
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somehow been overlooked by the majority of Albertans,
who, like me, travel seeking culinary fulfllment in addition
to spectacular scenery.
In Medicine Hat, even flling up the car at the local Tempo
station, just outside the eastern boundary of the city, can be
an opportunity to indulge in the regions food items. Frozen
fruit pies by nearby Kirschenman Farms and a line of jarred
products, such as dill pickles, spice beets and gourmet salsa,
from Saucy Ladies of Lethbridge compete for my attention
against more mundane convenience store items.
I hit the road again, eastward on the Trans-Canada High-
way for approximately 30 minutes and then turn at Highway
41 for a scenic 32-kilometre trip to Cypress Hills Interprovin-
cial Park. Still frosted by snow on this postcard-perfect day,
the undulating hills stretch across the border of Alberta
and Saskatchewan. The parks campgrounds are flled
on summer weekends by outdoor enthusiasts eager to
hike its extensive trail system, which leads to an impressive
plateau overlooking the town of Elkwater and well beyond.
Returning to Medicine Hat, I decide to take one more
side journey, driving for 90 minutes following a section
of Highway 3, (better known as the Crowsnest Pass) past
Bow Island. A major bean producing area, Bow Island
is marked by civic mascot Pinto McBean, the towns statue,
which waves to me as I drive towards Lethbridge.
Just fve kilometres east of Lethbridge, I spot a green
sign announcing Broxburn Vegetables. Ive been tipped
off that this is a destination not to miss, so I pull off of
the highway for the short drive down Broxburn Road.
Owner Paul de Jonge greets me. He arrived from Holland
in 1994 and since then has become an entrepreneurial force
to be reckoned with.
Starting out growing onions, Broxburn Vegetables has
blossomed into a vertically integrated business that any CEO
would be proud of. The greenhouse part of the operation
supplies vegetables to Red Hat Co-op in Redcliff. Its also a
valued source of Boston lettuce, beef steak tomatoes, onions,
peppers and micro greens for many of Calgarys best culinary
establishments.
For tourists and the local population who stop in at this
32-hectare nexus of fresh food, de Jonge runs a retail store
and caf where the same wholesome veggies are the star
attraction. The U-pick strawberry felds are a magnet for
summer visitors.
A signature item at the Broxburn Caf is a bowl of roasted
red pepper soup made from peppers picked fresh in the
greenhouse earlier that day. Its accompanied by a thick piece
of homemade bread and can be enjoyed as a tasty metaphor
for this region of Alberta, which is responsible for some of
the most delicious produce in the province.
This is who we are, says de Jonge.
And for that I am so grateful.
Abee
Alberta Beach
Albright
Alcomdale
Alhambra
Alix
Alliance
Altario
Amesbury
Amisk
Andrew
Anthracite
Anzac
Arcadia
Ardley
Ardmore
Ardrossan
Arvilla
Ashmont
Athabasca
Atikameg
Atmore
Banff
Barrhead
Bashaw
Bawlf
Bay Tree
Beach Corner
Beauvallon
Beaverlodge
Bellis
Belloy
Benalto
Bentley
Bergen
Bezanson
Big Valley
Bittern Lake
Bitumount
Blackfalds
Bloomsbury
Blue Ridge
Blueberry Mountain
Bluffton
Bonanza
Botha
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Bowden
Boyle
Breton
Breynat
Brosseau
Brownvale
Buck Creek
Busby
Byemoor
Cadomin
Calais
Calling Lake
Canyon Creek
Carcajou
Carlson Landing
Caroline
Carvel
Castor
Cherhill
Cherry Point
Chigwell
Chipewyan Lake
Chipman
Chisholm
Clairmont
Clandonald
Clear Prairie
Clive
Clyde
Cochrane
Codesa
Cold Lake
Colinton
Compeer
Condor
Conklin
Consort
Cooking Lake
Coronation
Crooked Creek
Crossfield
Czar
Dapp
Darwell
Daysland
Deadwood
Debolt
Delburne
Demmitt
Derwent
Devona
Dewberry
Didsbury
Dixonville
Dogpound
Donnelly
Drayton Valley
Drinnan
Duffield
Dunstable
Duvernay
Eaglesham
Eckville
Edberg
Egremont
Elk Point
Elkton
Elmworth
Elnora
Embarras
Embarras Portage
Endiang
Enilda
Entrance
Entwistle
Erith
Exshaw
Fairview
Fallis
Faust
Fawcett
Ferintosh
Ferrier
Fifth Meridian
Flatbush
Forshee
Fort Assiniboine
Fort Mackay
Fort Saskatchewan
Fort Vermilion
Fox Creek
Fox Lake
Gadsby
Gage
Gainford
Galahad
Garden Creek
Genesee
Gibbons
Gift Lake
Girouxville
Glendon
Glenevis
Gordondale
Grand Centre
Grande Cache
Grassland
Green Court
Grimshaw
Grouard Mission
Gull Lake
Gunn
Guy
Habay
Halkirk
Hardisty
Harmattan
Harmon Valley
Hay Camp
Hay Lakes
Haynes
Heinsburg
Hespero
High Level
High Prairie
Highland Park
Hilliard
Hines Creek
Hoadley
Hobbema
Holden
Hondo
Hornbeck
Hotchkiss
Hughenden
Huxley
Hylo
Hythe
Innisfall
Innisfree
Irma
Islay
Jackfish
Jarvie
Jasper
Jean Cote
Joffre
Joussard
Kananaskis
Kathleen
Kavanagh
Keephills
Kenzie
Killam
Kinsella
Kitscoty
La Glace
Lac La Biche
Lac La Nonne
Lac Ste Anne
Lacorey
Lake Louise
Lamont
Lavoy
Leduc
Leedale
Legal
Leslieville
Lindale
Linden
Lisburn
Little Fishery
Little Red River
Little Smoky
Loon Lake
Lousana
Luscar
Lymburn
Ma-me-o Beach
Mackay
Madden
Mallaig
Mannville
Marwayne
Mclennan
Meander River
Meanook
Mearns
Meeting Creek
Mercoal
Metiskow
Mildred Lake
Millet
Minburn
Mirror
Monitor
Morinville
Morley
Morningside
Mundare
Muskeg River
Myrnam
Nestow
New Norway
New Sarepta
Niton
Niton Junction Nojack
North Star
North Vermilion Settlemen
Northville
Notikewin
Obed
Ohaton
Olds
Onoway
Opal
Paddle Prairie
Paradise Valley
Peace Point
Peerless Lake
Peers
Pembridge
Pemukan
Penhold
Perryvale
Pibroch
Pickardville
Plamondon
Ponoka
Prestville
Priddis
Provost
Quatre Fourches
Radway
Rainbow Lake
Ranch
Ranfurly
Red Earth Creek
Redwater
Reno
Rich Lake
Rich Valley
Rimbey
Rivercourse
Rochester
Rochfort Bridge
Rocky Lane
Rocky Mountain House
Rolly View
Rosalind
Rosevear
Round Hill
Royce
Rumsey
Rycroft
Ryley
Saddle Lake
Saint Paul
Sangudo
Saulteaux Spurfield
Saunders
Scapa
Sedgewick
Sexsmith
Shoal Creek
Silverwood
Slave Lake
Smith
Smoky Lake
Solomon
Spedden
Spirit River
Springburn
Spruce Grove
Sputinow
St. Lina
St. Michael
St. Vincent
Stanger
Steen River
Steeper
Stettler
Stony Plain
Strome
Styal
Sundre
Sunnybrook
Sunnyslope
Sunset House
Swan Hills
Sweet Grass Landing
Sylvan Lake
Tangent
Tawatinaw
Tees
Thorhild
Thorsby
Three Creeks
Three Hills
Tiger Lily
Tofield
Tomahawk
Torrington
Triangle
Trochu
Trout Lake
Two Creeks
Two Hills
Uncas
Valhalla Centre
Valleyview
Vegreville
Vermilion
Vermilion Chutes
Viking
Vilna
Violet Grove
Wabamun
Wabasca-desmarais
Wainwright
Wandering River
Wanham
Warburg
Warden
Warrensville
Waskatenau
Water Valley
Watino
Webster
Wembley
Westlock
Whitecourt
Wild Hay Wildwood
Willingdon
Wimborne
Windfall
Winfield
Woking
Wolf Creek
Bonnyville
Bremner
Camrose
Edson
Hinton
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Wetaskiwin
Fort McMurray
Grande Prairie
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Edmonton
Wood Buffalo
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Jasper
National Park
Banff
National Park
Peter
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Elk Island
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Im an hour south of Edmonton, and the rolling farm-
land is just acquiring the rosy glow of sunrise. Horses stand at
their fences and snort great columns of steam as they survey
the busy humans zipping north and south. Ive driven the
QE 2 several hundred times, and Ive passed the colourful
Bles-Wold Dairy and Yogurt sign so often, I can see it in my
mind. Theres a curve and a then a dip in the road. Or it is a
rise and a straightening of the highway? Never mind. Ill
know it when I get there.
Besides, on this clear, chilly morning, Im enjoying the
drive to Albertas only on-farm yogurt production facility.
Bles-Wold is a premium product. It travels from the farms
cows in the milking barn to the yogurt production facility in
a matter of hours, and arrives on grocery shelves in a matter
of days. This freshness and a tight control over production
has meant business is booming.
Just as I start to second-guess my memory, I round a cor-
ner and the sign appears. I turn off the highway and I fnd
myself scanning farms and driveways for signs of Bles-Wold.
City girl that I am, I drive past the farm a couple of times
before I admit defeat and call them on my cell. I get a few
clues: its the only dairy farm on that stretch of road, so Im
told to look for cows and a dairy barn. Im practically staring
right at it. Embarrassed, I pull into the farmyard.
Just then, Tinie Eilers comes round the side of the farms
red and white-trimmed wooden barn. This is where Tinie
(pronounced TEE-ny) runs the yogurt business. Her hus-
band Hennie Bos is in charge of the dairy a few steps away.
Today I get to see two thriving businesses in one stop.
Tinie shows me into the barn and up to the coffee room,
a second-storey perch where the more than half a dozen Bles-
Wold staff come and go as their duties allow. In her soft
Dutch accent, Tinie begins to explain how she, Hennie and
their two kids ended up in central Alberta. Just then, Hennie
joins us. Hes surprisingly perky for a guy who gets up every
day at 5 a.m., but I guess thats part of the business. Tinie and
Hennie grew up on farms in Holland, and together had a
dairy farm there for 20 years. But then Tinie puts it in terms
that are easy to understand. There are 16 million people in a
country that fts between Edmonton and Calgary, she says.
Land in Holland is at a premium, and theres little room for
entrepreneurship. Lacombe, by contrast, had the right com-
bination of fertile farmland, wide-open spaces and wide-
open opportunities for an ambitious family farm.
In 1994, Tinie and Hennie, and their 13-year old
daughter and their nine-year-old son arrived in Canada,
and by February 1995, their new farm had a brand-new
Culture Club
Theres more to Bles-Wold Dairys ultra creamy estate yogurt
than a handful of bacteria and a timer. Theres also the artistry
Story By Jennifer Cockrall-King Photography By Bookstrucker
dairy facility and 60 Holsteins. They named the farm
Bles-Wold, a hybrid of Hennies hometown, Blesdijke,
and Tinies hometown, Steenwijkerwold.
Tinie credits Hennie with being the entrepreneur, but her
yogurt business, which started as a hobby in 1996, has gained
momentum. Im not a planner, Tinie admits when I ask her if
yogurt production was always part of the Bles-Wold vision.
Instead, it was just a way for her to give her teenage diabetic
daughter a nutritious breakfast that didnt contain extra sugars.
Tinie would whip up batches of mild-tasting yogurt in the
kitchen. Id give some to friends and neighbours and they
seemed to like it, continues Tinie. She also learned that
Albertans like their yogurt sweeter and thicker than that
found in Europe. Her taste testers also expressed a desire for
fruit favours. She obliged. Hennie encouraged her to think
about making yogurt as a business. Since Tinies brother had
a small commercial yogurt business on his farm in Holland,
she asked him to send her a small (400-litre) pasteurizer and
a recipe. In 1996, she took her farm-fresh yogurt to the
Lacombe and Ponoka farmers markets, where it was a hit.
Then the manager from the local Coop store, Keith
Meyers, came to us, recalls Tinie. Thats how it all started.
Bles-Wold yogurt made the leap from farmers markets to
grocery stores. Tinie and Hennie took the growing pains in
their stride. Tinie made her way through the dizzying label-
ling regulations with the help of agriculture advisors from
Government of Alberta. These days, Bles-Wold yogurt, and
now sour cream, is sold at 90 different locations across
Alberta. The farm has a federally inspected facility, and the
Bos-Eilers are working on expanding their territory to other
provinces.
Anxious to see where this product is made, I ask for a tour.
Tinie furrows her brow and tells me that due to the strict
Hazard Analysis Critical Control Points (HACCP) guidelines
and biological controls, she cant allow me into the produc-
tion plant. I could inadvertently bring in a bacteria or
something that could spoil an entire 2,000-litre batch. (Yes,
the initial pasteurizer has long-since been up-sized.) The
culturing of the yogurt is a precise undertaking and theres
just no room for tourists.
There is, however, a window into the yogurt-making
room and I peer into the space; its hospital-clean. The tile
foor is gleaming white and the stainless steel pasteurizing
tank and small flling line are also spotless. The milk from
the nearby dairy arrives at the yogurt-processing plant via
an underground pipe system. Because Bles-Wolds dairy
is commercial, certifed under The Canadian Quality Milk
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Tinie Eilers, left, and
Hennie Bos have
diversifed their dairy
Program, the products quality and the freshness are givens.
Cows milk starts out with close to four per cent fat, so
Tinies next step is to separate the milk. Bles-Wolds plain
yogurt is made with two per cent milk, and the favoured
yogurts are made with 1.7 per cent. At 4,000 to 5,000 litres
a week of yogurt, Tinie is using less than a days worth of the
farms milk production. (Most Bles-Wold milk is sold into
the provinces milk system.)
The milk is pasteurized (heated to a certain temperature
under its boiling point for long enough to kill off undesirable
bacteria) and then rapidly cooled. Then, says Tinie, the milk
is incubated with cultures. Cultures are human-friendly, live
bacteria that cause the milk to thicken and ferment some-
what. I naively ask how long Tinie allows the cultures to
ferment. Sorry, thats a secret, she blushes. Apparently, the
length of the fermentation is what gives her yogurt a creamy,
almost syrupy texture, while still being relatively low in fat.
Instead, she shows off the brand new packaging. Heat-
sealed foil lids have replaced the plastic lids. And the labelling
refects a new feeding program that Hennie has started with
the herd. He feeds the cows a mixed diet of alfalfa hay, barley
silage, haylage, ground corn and, most recently, sunfower
seeds. This latest nutritional addition results in milk that
contains higher levels of conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), a
fatty acid that, like omega-3 and omega-6, is being touted as a
nutritionally important element, possibly warding off chron-
ic diseases and obesity, while promoting heart and bone
health. And this neatly illustrates a beneft of sourcing milk
from a single farms herd. The milk isnt pooled with other
farms milk, so interested consumers can fnd out about a
particular dairys feeding program.
Hennie invites me to meet the herd. His 230 cows are
primarily Holsteins that produce 6,500 litres of milk per day,
and it keeps Hennie and his staff busy with three milkings
every 24 hours. Bles-Wold takes pains to keep the cows happy
and healthy. The animals are taken to an exercise lot as often
as possible, and only natural fertilizer cow manure is what
he uses at this 450-acre farm to produce the hay and silage for
the cows feed. Bles-Wold doesnt use pesticides, insecticides
or chemical fertilizers.
We walk over to the dairy barn, where theres some
activity. A calf has just been born, and one of the Hennies
helpers is making sure that mom and baby are doing OK. The
trembling little calf looks around, dazed and wet, but seems
happy with the cleaning its getting from mom. Other young
calves crane their necks in my direction, so I bravely ask if I can
pet one. Several of them compete for a scratch on their forehead,
and I even brave the kisses of one seriously affectionate little
miss. We walk up the middle of the main barn, where the pro-
ducing herd is currently located; I decline the invitations from
the full-sized cows for a head scratch. My bravery has evaporated
in the presence of these 700-kilogram (1,500-pound) animals,
but I manage a quick moment with one friendly cow, numbered
996, a breakthrough for someone who couldnt recognize a dairy
farm a few hours ago.
Maybe its their easy-going Dutch demeanor, but Tinie
and Hennie make running two steadily expanding business-
es look easy. They credit their supportive and dependable
staff. Whatever the reason, they seem to have struck a balance
between an Old World, back-to-basics approach to natural
farming practices with a New World business savvy. This
estate-produced yogurt is in synch with the renewed interest
many Albertans have in a farm-to-table connection. Lucky
for us, the Bos-Eilers picked central Alberta.
tEEny but
growI ng:
Tinie started making
yogurt, from the
farms Holsteins,
in her kitchen
Thats what AVAC recognized when we
helped establish the innovative Bioactive
Oils Program thats investigating how to
create healthier, commercially-relevant
canola and fax oils
AVAC is an Alberta-based, private, not-for-proft company that
invests in businesses and research that support our provinces
growing value-added industry. We see potential where others
might not, and recognize possibilities traditional investors may
overlook. To date, weve helped our clients generate sales of
$216.7 million on new products and attract more than $349
million in additional investment. Imagine what we can do for you.
Show us your ideas and well show you whats possible.
To learn more, visit us at www.avacltd.com.
possibility
Chris Kazala,
Program Manager
Bioactive Oils Program
Thats what AVAC recognized when we
000.AVAC_FP_nBL.indd 1 1/21/08 10:08:53 AM
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Backyard Bogeys
You cant tell as you gaze out over your patch of green, but the
grounds can harbour a multitude of dangers Story by Lisa Ostrowski
The short, sweet summer makes gardening a favourite
pastime of many Albertans. Growing your own fruits and
vegetables can encourage a healthier lifestyle for your family,
not only by convincing them to eat garden-fresh goods, but
by promoting more active, outdoor activities. Yet your garden
can carry more risks than you may imagine. This spring,
prep your garden for safety.
Some of the biggest threats in your backyard are from
everyday objects. Tools and machinery in your garden, when
used improperly, can be sources of injury.
Using a riding lawnmower improperly can result in seri-
ous injuries to the driver or to unsuspecting children.
According to the Canadian Institute for Health Information,
there tends to be fewer per capita lawnmower injuries in
Canada than in the United States, but these accidents are
preventable. The driver should be the only one on the mower
and should ensure there are no children playing outside
before he starts. People under 16 shouldnt operate these
mowers. Most of us have gas or electric push mowers, but
these can pick up and throw objects hidden in the grass,
so check the lawn before you mow. If either kind of lawn-
mower needs maintenance, shut the motor off, and unplug
electrical mowers, before attempting repairs.
Lawnmowers arent the only dangerous equipment in
your backyard. Just using a spade or trowel for long periods
can harm muscles that are more accustomed to snow shovels.
But using the wrong tools, such as a hoe when you really need
a spade, can be just as dangerous. Fortunately these dangers
are easily minimized.
There are things you should look for in buying tools,
says Jim Hole of Holes Greenhouses, quality, well designed,
ergonomic tools. You should also make sure that youre using
the right tool for the job. If youre up on a ladder, stretching
to cut branches with a saw that wasnt built to cut branches,
theres a higher chance youre going to get hurt.
There are a wide variety of ergonomic tools available from
most garden centers and websites, such as www.gardenscape.
ca, which can reduce muscle strain. But any tool can be dan-
gerous if used improperly. Before buying tools, check with
the staff of the garden center to make sure the tool you are
buying is appropriate for the job you have in mind. And,
before and after using any hand tools, try doing some simple
stretches, similar to those youd do after sitting at a computer
for a long period.
Chemical pesticides and herbicides are also dangerous
when used improperly. Although Health Canada has
approved most chemicals intended for backyard use,
some experts say to avoid the use of chemicals altogether.
Weed killers are known as cosmetic pesticides and are
not actually necessary for gardens or lawns.
The fewer concentrations of toxic chemicals that you
apply or store around the house or garden, the safer it is for
children and pets. The instructions on most commercial
products indicate how and when to apply the chemicals and
the margin of time and the safe methods to use in harvesting
the produce, says Norm Carlson, Environmental Health
Manager of Calgary Regional Health. There are no chemi-
cals that should be used carelessly.
Other options besides chemical pesticides include horti-
cultural oils and soaps, which may seem slightly less effective
at frst, but are actually more effective in the long run.
Keep in mind that pesticides often kill the good insects at
the same time as taking out the bad ones. Many pests dont
require a harsh chemical spray, says Jim Hole. Instead,
you can use softer products, such as soaps and oils that wont
harm the benefcial insects. These softer products work bet-
ter over the long term; its as if youre teaming up with the
benefcial insects.
Besides tools and chemicals, another danger in your back-
yard may be the very plants in it. When you choose plants for
a fower or vegetable garden, make sure to do your homework
frst. Certain plants, such as monkshood, may have poison-
ous leaves or fowers and shouldnt be planted where pets can
get at them. Other plants, such as parsnips, have leaves that
may cause blistering and allergic reactions in some people
and animals. To choose the best plants for your family,
ask the staff of your local greenhouse or garden center.
Theyre likely to know what plants are suitable for you
if you have kids, curious pets or allergies.
A good rule of (green) thumb is to do your research.
If you use the right tool or chemical for the job you should
be in no danger in your backyard this season.
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Avoid the pitchfork perils and tilling tales of woe.
Keep yourself and your family safe in the garden
this summer.
Cover up with sunscreen and a brimmed hat
to prevent sunburn and sunstroke.
Have a fle on hand for minor sharpening jobs. Itll
help keep your tools in good condition, and minimize
the strain on your body.
Wear gloves, especially when you handle plants
that may cause reactions.
Protect your hearing with proper ear gear when
you use loud machinery, such as a lawnmower
or hedge trimmer.
Before you mow, walk around the yard, looking
for hidden objects that your mower may pick up.
Safety checklist
for the garden
Some hungry consumers are gambling that functional foods
and nutraceuticals may improve health and reduce disease
WrittenBy Caitlin Crawshaw
At Any plAin-JAne grocery story in Alberta
the type where you wont fnd yoga supplies or
Swiss chard a dozen kinds of juice taunt you
from a cooler.
Scan the row: orange juice with calcium,
reduced-acid OJ, vegetable juice, organic straw-
berry juice. your eye wanders to a blood-red
beverage in a curvaceous, plastic bottle. pome-
granate juice. A decorative label claims the juice
is rich in antioxidants, which fght cancer and
aging. At $6 for a half litre bottle, you might
raise an eyebrow and leave it on the shelf. But
a growing number of Albertans are tossing it
into their carts. Whats a few extra dollars to
reduce your cancer risk?
While Albertans arent known for being
overly analytical in the grocery store, theyre
becoming increasingly open to purchasing
functional foods even if it means spending
more. in fact, its a trend thats boosting research
in Albertas growing functional food and nutra-
ceuticals sector.
And while some consumers are getting on
board, most arent identifying the products in
their cart as functional foods or nutraceuticals.
in fact, many consumers might never have
heard the terms.
Functional foods are those which have
been shown to offer certain health benefts
to consumers. this includes simple foods such
as carrots, which naturally contain the antioxi-
dant beta-carotene. processed foods can be
functional too. yogurt, for example, includes
digestion-enhancing bacteria. Also in this cate-
gory are foods with added ingredients, such as
milk with added vitamin D or enhanced foods,
such as omega-3-enriched pork.
the term nutraceuticals is actually an
amalgamation of nutritional and pharma-
ceutical and refers to products isolated
from food and generally sold in medicinal P
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WWW.groWingalBerta.com 43
form. think of fbre supplements or iron-rich
spirulina, made from blue-green algae.
i think consumers today are looking
for healthier products overall, and healthier
food products, says Kristina Williams, vice
president of marketing and sales for edmontons
natraceuticals Canada (formerly Cevena Bio-
products), creator of Viscofber.
theyre looking for healthier food products
that taste good, because at the end of the day,
they have to taste good or people wont buy them
again. Consumers are willing to pay a little bit of
a premium for high-quality products.
Both functional foods and nutraceuticals pro-
vide a non-pharmaceutical means of promoting
health, decreasing dangers such as
adverse drug interactions. But Williams
is quick to caution that Health Canada
regulations prevent most products
including Viscofber from legally
claiming to prevent disease. Rather,
they are products that promote health.
While no product is a cure-all,
some of Albertas nutraceuticals offer
notable health benefts.
Created by two University of Alberta agricul-
ture professors, Viscofber is a very concentrated
version of the soluble fbre in barley and oats.
through a proprietary process, the soluble fbre
is removed, and separated from the starch and
protein.
theres been a lot of talk lately about the
benefts of fbre and its ability to improve heart
health. Viscofber claims to do this better than
other fbre supplements. Williams explains that
during extraction from the grain, soluble fbre
can lose some of the molecular properties that
give it viscosity (the ability to bind with water).
Viscofber uses a method that maintains its
structure, on a molecular level.
Viscosity is key to fbre, since the fbre must
attach well to water molecules in your gut to
create a soft gel. its not an appetizing image,
but the creation of the gel slows your glycemic
response (keeps your blood sugar levels steadi-
er), makes you feel fuller, and removes bile acids
from your body. this last process removes
harmful cholesterol from your bloodstream,
suggesting benefts for heart health.
While not exactly a dispassionate third party,
the company has tested the health benefts of the
product, and found favourable results, including
a small study that even connected Viscofber to
weight loss. Sold as both a supplement and food
additive, Viscofber is available to consumers
in the U.S. and in Canada.
Another nutraceutical being developed
in Alberta may offer a treatment of sorts for a
disease thats evaded both treatment and cure.
Celiac disease, which affects about one per
cent of the north American population, is an
immune response to the presence of gluten,
found in grains such as rye, barley, wheat and
oats. ingesting foods with even traces of gluten
can cause enormous pain to those afficted,
as well as damage their intestines.
A research scientist at the University of
Albertas Faculty of pharmacy is trying to
make life easier for celiac patients. But rather
than looking to a drug treatment, Dr. Hoon
Sunwoo is investigating a miracle food: eggs.
For thousands of years, people have been
eating eggs, but nobody has had harmful
effects, he says. the egg is a very natural
and safe product.
Sunwoo is creating a compound containing
antibodies found in egg yolk immunoglobu-
lin-y to be specifc which will bind with the
gluten to prevent it from being absorbed in the
intestine, where it can harm celiac suffers. For
these people, this could be a godsend. By adding
the supplement to food (or taking it as a capsule
or tablet), celiac patients could avoid accidentally
digesting gluten, in restaurant food, for instance.
the four-year project is presently in its frst
year, and will have to undergo much testing by
Health Canada before it can be ready for com-
mercialization. But Sunwoo is hopeful that the
research can beneft both celiac
patients and Albertas egg producers.
Hopefully the tests will be okay, so
we will produce large amounts of the
value-added agri-products to help our
poultry people, producers, food pro-
cessors and celiac patients, he says.
Sunwoo isnt the only scientist
with an interest in eggs. theyre also
a research target for Jianping Wu, an assistant
professor in the University of Albertas depart-
ment of agricultural, food and nutritional
science. people are using eggs for so many
interesting innovations. We are trying to explore
more and see how we can beneft and improve
peoples health and quality of life, he says.
Wu is working on a new way to extract
protein and lipids from processed egg yolk
without using harmful solvents. these proteins
and lipids have many different uses in the
pharmaceutical, cosmetic and food industries
as emulsifers or nutraceutical ingredients,
Wu explains. For example, a kind of fat pulled
from the egg yolk (called phospholipids) is a
good source of a chemical called choline, which
is important to human brain development.
The term nutraceuticals is an
amalgamation of nutritional and
pharmaceutical and refers to
products isolated from food.
Wu is also studying other elements in
egg proteins that can help prevent diseases.
the benefcial effects of these disease-fghting
proteins arent always gained by simply eating
eggs. the proteins Wu is studying are small
and rendered unusable by the digestion process.
But they can, perhaps, be added to food or as
taken as a nutraceutical. We are (trying) to
mine the proteins in a sequence that can be
used for prevention of cardiovascular disease,
or even cancer. Such a sequence could not
occur without some processing.
For Wu, the growth of Albertas functional
food and nutraceutical sector is the result of both
government support and consumer demand.
its a needed trend, he says. in Canada, the U.S.
and many countries, the aging population
is increasing. With it, chronic diseases like
cardiovascular disease and cancer are getting
higher and higher. And i dont think that phar-
maceuticals can treat all of these diseases, he
says. people realize that a lot of these chronic
diseases relate to peoples lifestyles and the
food they eat is a major part.
Ruurd Zijlstra, an associate professor and
feed industry research chair in the University
of Albertas department of agricultural, food
and nutritional science, is optimistic that con-
sumers growing interest in functional foods
will help the suffering pork industry. While
demand for pork is good, producers are strug-
gling due to increased costs, he explains.
theres a lot of pressure on the producer
relative to feed costs and relative to the prices
that they can get for their commodity products
in the marketplace, he says. As a result,
researchers like Zijlstra are looking for ways
to add value to pork. His research focuses
on pork that contains omega-3 fatty acids.
these are considered essential fatty acids,
and are associated with brain development
and heart health. Omega-3 is normally found
in fax seed, fsh and some other sources.
Zijlstra is investigating feeding fax to pigs
to increase their omega-3 profle. His work
involves determining how much fax pigs must
eat, as well as how omega-3 pork benefts both
consumer health and the health of the animals,
which may in turn reduce animal care costs.
it seems like its shaping up to be a win-
win-win situation for the pigs, consumers and
producers, who can fetch a higher price for
their commodity by selling to a niche market.
the majority of the people, or certainly half
of the people, (purchase by) price strictly, but
theres also a category of people out there who
are willing to pay more than the average price
if it is animal welfare friendly, antibiotic free,
omega-3 containing, he says.
those on the other side of the fence, vegetari-
ans, are also benefting from the functional food
boom. in Barrhead, natural Farmworks has
developed Rubisco, a vegetable protein product
that hit the shelves of health-food stores late
December, 2007. the product, made from the
leaves of plants before theyve gone to seed,
contains a high level of protein, explains Brad
Mcnish, company president and co-owner.
He explains that since the 1700s, scientists
have recognized the protein contained in green
leaves. every advanced species needs protein
in its diet, and its amazing how many species
on earth are supported by protein that comes
exclusively from the leaves of a plant, he says.
this is the most abundant protein on the face
of the earth, but since people cant possibly eat
enough green leaves to get most of their protein
(leaves are primarily fbre and water, after all),
its never been a major source for humans.
Mcnish and his business partner, lori
Wheeler, say theyve discovered a process for
concentrating plant leaf protein, in a way that
preserves its vitamin and mineral content.
While people have known that heating
the juice from leaves can create a protein-rich
coagulate (the non-governmental organization
called leaf for life has long taught African
women how to improve their familys nutrition
this way), natural Farmworks preserves the
vitamin content, which degrades at high
temperatures.
Rubisco is well tolerated by the body, and
comprises leaf protein from a number of plants
including spinach, pea, barley, wheat and Alfalfa
all grown by the company and shipped into a
Barrhead manufacturing plant by the truckload.
Mcnish points out that most of the world
gets the majority of their protein from plant
sources, while north Americans get 65 per cent
of their protein from meat. Hes not a vegetarian
himself, but believes in the benefts of plant-
based protein and the harm caused by poor
north American diets.
Mcnish recalls people-watching and
noting the abundance of corpulent travellers
on his most recent airline journey. All you
have to do is stand in any airport and you can
see what its is doing to our population.
Food adds value
Canada is a global hotspot for the development of nutraceuticals and functional foods. Meet
a few of Albertas up-and-coming examples, fnding their way to grocery shelves near you.
Dr. sims Designer Eggs By feeding chickens a special diet, University of Alberta profes-
sor and IGY Inc. member Dr. Jeong Sim created The Canadian Designer egg, which is high
in omega-3 fatty acids, and now sold across the world.
spiceGuard Another product by Dr. Jeong Sim. Derived from eggs, this food additive/food
preservative keeps bacteria from growing on the surface of food. www.igybiotech.com
Viscofber Using techniques that dont damage the molecular structure of the fbre,
Natraceutical Canada produces a highly concentrated, soluble fbre that decreases glycemic
response and lowers cholesterol. www.cevena.com
rubisco Made from the green leaves of plants, Rubisco is highly concentrated
leaf protein. Its high in vitamin D and iron, contains a full complement of amino acids
and ofers an alternative to soy protein for vegetarians and health-conscious Albertans.
www.naturalfarmworks.net
sinoveda herbal supplements Local company Sinoveda applies a pharmaceutical
approach to nutraceuticals, claiming to ofer more potent varieties of ginseng, ginko
biloba and echinacea. www.naturesnutraoils.com
natures nutraceuticals This Brooks, Alberta, operation sells a variety of cold-pressed
fax seed products. www.naturesnutraoils.com
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Cool Cow Corner
Cows are the wonders of the farming world. They are kind
of like natural, walking vending machines. Some scientists
even say that when humans evolved the ability to digest
cows milk, it was the first step on the road to civilization.
Did you ever wonder how a cow makes milk? Well,
pour yourself a frosty glass of moo-juice and
sit down. Its time to find out about udderly
awesome cows.
story Bymifi purvis
illustrations Bycindy revell
Q: doesnt the baby calf need all that milk?
A: A cow makes 20 times more milk than the calf needs.
Holsteins make more milk than any other cow, about
40,000 glasses of milk per year. How many glasses of
milk can you drink in a year?
Q: do cows really have four stomach compartments?
A: You bet. First, the cow chows down, and food goes into
the largest of four compartments, the rumen, where its is
churned, moistened and softened. (Thats why some people
call cows and other animals with this stomach ruminants.)
If you had four stomachs, would they all be for pizza?
Q: Then where does the food go?
A: It moves into the second compartment, called the
reticulum, which turns it into tennis-ball sized wads called
cuds. The cow burps the cuds back into its mouth to be
re-chewed. Cows spend up to eight hours a day chewing
their cud. Think of it as cow bubble gum.
Q: Thats two stomach compartments whats next?
A: Well chewed, cuds go into to the omasum theyre ground
up more. Then, fnally, to the fourth compartment, the
abomasum, sometimes called the true stomach because
there, acids digest the food. Say omasum, abomasum
fve times fast!
Q: How does this help cows make milk?
A: Nutrients from the food are carried by the blood to
the udder. It takes a cow between 50 and 70 hours to turn
green grass into white milk. How long does it take you
to turn white milk into chocolate?
Science tastes great
If you were ever curious about how ice cream
is made, heres a chance to try it for yourself.
Think of it as an experiment you can eat.
1 cup (250 ml) whole milk or
Half & Half cream
1/2 tsp (2 ml) vanilla
1/4 cup (65 ml) sugar
3 to 4 cups crushed ice
(750 to 1,000 ml)
1/4 cup (65 ml) salt (or rock salt)
2, one-quart size resealable
(2, one-litre) freezer bags
a one-gallon size resealable
(four-litre) freezer bag
hand towels, newspapers and
duct tape for insulation
thermometer that reads -10
C
Mix the milk, vanilla and sugar together
in one of the quart-size bags. Seal tightly,
pressing most or all of the air out of the bag.
To minimize chance of leaks, place this bag
inside the other quart-size bag, again leaving
as little air inside as possible and sealing well.
Put the double-bagged mixture inside the
gallon-size bag and fill the bag with 3 to 4
cups of crushed ice, then sprinkle salt on
top. Again, remove as much air as possible
and seal the bag well.
Wrap the bag in the towel, or like a present
with sheets of newspaper, and secure with
duct tape. Play some fast music and shake
and massage the bag, making sure the
ice surrounds the cream mixture. In 5 to 8
minutes, youll have ice cream. If you take
a temperature reading of the ice and salt
mixture, it will be between -5
C and -10
C.
Serves 1 hungry kid.
FArmer
dAIrY
mIlk
boNeS
CoTTAge
CHeeSe
ICe CreAm
YogurT
udder
HolSTeIN
CoW
mooN
CulTure
rumINANT
pIzzA
Why shouldnt you
pamper a cow?
You get spoiled milk.
What did the cow say
to his chess partner?
Your moooove.
Udderly funny
High-ho, the dairy-o!
Who invented ice cream?
It might just be a legend, but some
sources say that the roman emperor,
Nero, discovered ice cream. runners
brought snow from the mountains
to make the frst frosty treats.
What about the cone?
At the St. louis World exposition
in 1904, an ice cream vendor ran out
of dishes and improvised by rolling
up some wafes to make cones.
No more dirty dishes!
e e u
g
r d
r

o
e
S

e

N

S
u I T r u
g

o
Y
d
d l

e

N

d
r

u

Y

u

T

l
A e I

e
N r A m
A
b T e o A C
H A z z I
p d

d

W
m u e
C o
r T

N r

m

C

m
r

F I
e I l
l A

e

Y

r S

m

A

C
g e e
S
N

C u
l

T

u

r

e

A W

m N T

m u r

e m m
C

T

e
b o N e S u
d d e
r
T H W
o k l I
m
W

p

r

e
o
o
I m T e
e

N

C
A C A
C I r u N e N S l C o m
What does the salt do?
When salt comes into contact with ice,
the freezing point of the ice is lowered.
That way, you create an environment
in which the milk mixture can freeze
at a temperature below 0
C/32
F,
into ice cream.
Who made it easy?
In 1846, Nancy Johnson invented the
hand-cranked ice cream churn and
ice cream surged in popularity.
Cool, creamy facts
Why did the cow jump
over the moon?
The farmer had cold hands.
whats online?
formoregreatideasandrecipesfromthe
storiescoveredinthisissue,ofFood for
Thoughtvisit www.growingalberta.com
Subscribe online at
info@growingalberta.com
or call (780) 466-7905.
Jean Par: She chats about being Albertas frst lady of food
Settle into homey
recipes from
around the globe
Comfort
From Afar
Find out how
you beneft
HighTech
Farms
Pack a healthy lunch
with a tasty punch
School Bells
Ring
Your free
guide to
dining
in Alberta
Inside!
Agriculture and Food is GROWING ALBERTA
Fall 2007 FREE
H
om
e Turf
the 100-Mile Diet
FFT-Fall07_01.indd 1
8/8/07 1:50:01 PM
Agriculture and Food is GROWING ALBERTA Winter 2007 FREE
Bakers Dozen: Helpful hints from a young mufn master
Swell Soups
Get warm
from the inside out
The Gloves Come Off
Cook with pro hockeys nutritional experts
PLUS!
Top tips for a
pretty party
platter
Feed the Many
HowAlbertas soup kitchens do it
FFT-Cover-Final.indd 1 11/7/07 10:41:21
subscribe!
Subscribe today to have Food
For Thought delivered to your
door and never worry about
missing an issue again. Get four
issues for $15 (plus GST) or eight
issues for $25 (plus GST). Cost
covers postage, delivery and
some delicious reading.
party planner
Let writer Julie Van Rosendaal help you plan a little
party this spring. All you need is a bit of prep time,
some inspiration and a stack of cocktail napkins.
No forks or knives required. Check out some of the
recipes that accompany her feature on page 28.
the reading room
David DiCenzo introduced you to some new
research into food and agriculture at the University
of Alberta on page 22. Visit the website as a jumping
of point to fnd out more about the latest from the
lab to the feld to the plate.
recipes
Katie Mitzel of the historic Skoki Lodge cooks without run-
ning water or electricity (see page 23), but you dont have
to. If you are eager to try out some mouthwatering Alberta
butternut squash soup, head to the website and check it
out. While youre there, look for some hits from past issues
of Food For Thought magazine.
W
ho says stew isnt for company?
And what rule book says you cant
serve soup to friends as a main course?
In the winter, after they shake the snowoff their
parkas and doff the clunky boots, theyll be
delighted to cozy around a table laden with
steaming bowls of hearty winter fare. Here are
some winter comfort recipes, easy enough for a
weekdaymeal, towarmyouandyour friends.
Stewonit - Gail Hall
Its 1997 and Im in Santa Fe, New Mexico.
Imstanding ina busy farmers market drinking
inthefall colours. Vendors areroastingpeppers in
large,hand-crankedroastersoveropenfames.The
wonderfulsmellofroastedpepperskinsintheafter-
noonsunclings tomy hair andclothes. I canhear
thesnapandpopofchiliseedsastheyburstfromthe
pepperandhit theground. Themarket ismesmer-
izing for its sounds and smells. A few days later,
whenI unpackmysuitcaseinEdmonton, I catcha
faintscentofroastedpeppers.
When I want to relive that trip, I make a stew
that takes standard Prairie ingredients and
update them with a Southwestern twist. The
memory of my trip to the market in Santa Fe
becomes part of this stewevery time I make it. I
truly believe that to understand a culture is to
understand its food. Theres no better way to do
this thantotravel toa regionor country toexpe-
riencethecuisine, learnhowtocreatetheirdishes
with signature ingredients and recreate them
backhome.
DidI say I love stews? I cancreate a dishthats
hearty and inviting, not difficult to prepare
and easily balanced into a complete meal with
grilled cornbread and perhaps a salad. I love
stewsthat incorporatearangeof local ingredients
toshowcasethebountyof foodsthat areavailable
inAlberta.
For me, stews are the quintessential dish of
winter on the Prairies. Chances are, stews were
some of the frst dishes created by the settlers to
provide sustenance and warmth through long,
coldwinters. I love the sight of a pot of stewsim-
mering on the back of a stove, favours blending
together providing aroma and warmth in my
home as well as hearty food for friends. On cold
days, I bringthisimagetolifewithasteamingpot
of myfavouriteGreenChili Stew.
My stewinvolves the ingredients that I love to
shopforinEdmonton. Forme, theshoppingisan
important frst chapter in the preparation of the
dish. So this coldmorning, I headout to the Old
Strathcona Farmers Market. (My neighbour-
hoodhaunt, the EdmontonDowntownFarmers
Market, is closedafter Thanksgiving until May.)
Forme, chattingwiththevendorsisjust asimpor-
tant as buying their products. I canfndout how
they are doing and, most importantly, what was
involvedingrowingtheir produce.
Peas on Earth is my frst stop for fresh garlic,
onions andcarrots. Next, its Doefs Greenhouses
for red bell peppers and Ramiro peppers (also
called long pointed sweet peppers). Ill use the
latter androast themtobecome the greenchilies
that this dish requires. When theyre out of sea-
son, I substitute fresh with canned green chilies
that are available at the Italian Centre stores, Il
Paradisoas well the ethnic sections of most gro-
cerystores.
My last stop on my shopping journey is the
grocerystoreforLittlePotatoCompanypotatoes,
organic chicken stock and the featured ingredi-
ent, Alberta pork. I use tenderloin for this dish,
although any boneless cut can be used. Alberta
pork is among the best pork in the world fa-
vourful and low in saturated fat. (Ounce for
ounce, porktenderloinhaslesssaturatedfat than
chickenbreast.)
Iheadhome. Ihavedecidedthat tonightsmeal
will be prepared as a joint cooking experience
with several friends. Ill have the mise en place
ready (all the ingredients assembled and ready
for themto cook) whenthey arrive. Ive decided
that while the stew is simmering well prepare
andbakethecornbread, sothat itsreadyforgrill-
ing just before the simmering stewis ladled into
individual crocks. I know that by having my
friends involvedinthe cooking, well create new
memories and favours together . Now, the big
question: shouldI servebeer or wine?
10 food for thought winter 2007 www.growingalberta.com 11
Chase the Chill
The weather outside is frightful, and company is
coming. Put on a pot of stew or soup and theyll thank you
ByCarlaAlexander, Deepti BabuandGail Hall photographyBy3TenPhoto

FOODIE SPEAKS:iamafoodie,soilove
yourmagazine.also,iliketosupportlocal
agricultureandindustry.thefeaturearticle,
chasethechill,caughtmyeye.iread
feedthemany,andhintsforSt.nick
becausechristmaswasaroundthecorner.
ilearnedaboutmakinggravy,andabout
locally-producedcheeses.ilovedthearticles
onlocalbusinesses.idliketoreadmore
aboutchicken,peabutter,locally-produced
cookingoilsandveggiefarms.also,iminter-
estedinhealthandsafety.
Beverly Robinson,
Edmonton, Alberta
COVER TO COVER:ireallyenjoyedSally
Johnsonsstoryinthewinter2007issue,
feedthemany.itmademewanttohelp
outmore.ireadtheentiremagazineand
foundeverythingtobeinformative.ilearned
somethingabouthealthandsafetyregula-
tions,too.idliketoseemorestoriesabout
bisonfarmsinthefuture.
Joyce Pynoo,
Calgary, Alberta
your thoughts
Watch for our next issue
coming out in June, 2008!
!
Enter our contest. Send in a reader
reply card or enter online at
for your chance to win a
great Alberta Canola salad kit.
you could win
...
onceyouveturnedoverthesoil,plantedthegardenand
watchedthegreenshootstransformintofowersandveggies,
theresnothingleftbuttodiginpreparefortheheattocome.
hereswhatsinstoreatFood For Thought:
SweetSummer SaladS:Springdeepens
intosummer,andyourtastebudswillbeitching
forsomecrispveggies,freshfromalbertas
felds.Saynotoblandmixesoficeberg/tomato/
cucumber.instead,tryoutsomeofoursummer
saladsthataresuretopleasethepotluckers.
maximizethefreshnessoftheseasonandmini-
mizethegriefofside-dish-as-afterthought.here
aresaladsthatyoucanmakeaheadoftimeand
willonlyimprovewithanightinthefridge.
barbecuebeautY:Planahassle-freesummer
barbecuepartythatwillhaveyouhobnobbing
insteadofsweatingitoutbetweenthebarbecue
andthebufettable.takesometipsandsome
sure-frepartyplanningfromourexperts.Your
partywillshine,rainorshine.
HAPPY CAMPING: thesuccessofyournext
campingtripisdependantonplanning.Youcan
makebeefchiliandshepherdspieaheadoftime,
dehydrateitandhavereadymeals.also,prep
somegranolatrailmixthatssuretoplease,both
ontrailandof.capitallofwithsomecampers
energycookies.followourtwo-weekcamping
prepcourseandgetitallinplacesoyoucanhit
theroad,fridayat5p.m.,totallyprepared.
whats coming
Subscribe online at
info@growingalberta.com
or call (780) 466-7905.
1Tbsp(15mL) unsaltedbutter
2Tbsp(30mL) canolaoil
11/2cups(375mL) carnarolior
arboriorice
1 smallonion,
fnelydiced
1/4cup(60mL) drywhitewine
8cups(2L) chickenstock,
warmed
8 mediumasparagus
spears,cutinto
1-cmlengths
1/4cup(60mL) freshlygrated
parmesancheese
2Tbsp(30mL) mascarpone
cheese(optional)
salt
Backyard beauty:
April Demes captured
this image in her back-
yard asparagus patch in
Hillspring, near
Waterton Provincial
Park. Asparagus takes a
few years to establish
itself and Demes is look-
ing forward to a serious
harvest this year.
Nicoles AspArAgus risotto
Chef Nicole Kammerer (page 28) provided us with this little
winner of a recipe. A favourite among her catering clients,
you can make it at home to rave reviews, too.
In a 10 to 12 saut pan, heat oil and butter
over medium heat. Once the foam from the
melting butter subsides, add onions and cook
until softened and translucent, but not
browned, 5- 6 minutes. Add the rice and stir
until opaque (grains are translucent on the
outside with a speck of white on the inside)
3 - 4 minutes. Lightly season with salt.
Add the wine and cook, stirring, until evapo-
rated. Add a cup of stock and cook, stirring,
until all the liquid is absorbed. Repeat this
process, adding one cup of stock at a time, until
rice is al dente, about 17 minutes. You may have
stock left over. Add the asparagus, and stir in
another 1/2 cup (125 mL) stock. Add the mascar-
pone and Parmesan cheeses and stir until well
blended. It should be creamy, with the consis-
tency of moist porridge. Adjust seasoning with
salt. Serve immediately. Serves 4- 6.
PeR SeRvINg (bASed ON 6 SeRvINgS): 322 CALORIeS,
10 g fAt (2.9 g SAtuRAted fAt, 4.5 g mONOuNSAtu-
RAted fAt, 1.9 g POLYuNSAtuRAted fAt), 12.5 g
PROteIN, 42. 4 g CARbOhYdRAte, 8.5 g ChOLeSteROL,
1.3 g fIbeR. 29% CALORIeS fROm fAt.
50 fooDfORtHougHt spring 2008
Picture Perfect
send us your
best food or
farm photo*
for a chance to
win
$300!
* Photographs are judgedon technical quality,
composition andoverall impact. E-mail entries
tocontest@venturepublishing.ca or mail them
toFoodFor Thought Contest, Venture Publishing,
10259-105 Street, Edmonton, AB, T5J 1E3. For full
contest details, visit www.growingalberta.com.
000.ABChicken_FP_wBL.indd 1 1/30/08 12:15:51 PM
UNSHINE, FRESHAIRAND WHOLE GRAIN
3
#
OMPLIMENTS TO THE COOK
the exceptional avour and tenderness
the richness of the gravy
the moistness of the meat
the heartiness of the soup stock
the purity of the product
#
3
Ingredients
1/4 cup Co-op GOLD Olive Oil
2 tbsps Country Morning GOLD Butter
4 halibut steaks (about 6 oz each)
Sea salt & white pepper
1/2 cup Co-op Enriched Flour
Directions
1. Preheat a large saute pan over medium-high heat.
2. Add olive oil and butter to pan.
3. Season halibut liberally with salt and pepper and
4. When the butter starts to brown, gently lay each
steak into the pan.
5. Allow to cook until golden brown and slightly crusty
on each side (about 3-5 minutes per side.)
Pan-Seared Halibut Steaks
Fresh Wild Halibut is one of the most popular and
frying, poaching or barbecuing.
COMPLIMENTS OF THE CHEF COMPLIMENTS OF THE CHEF
Calgary Co-op
has gone Wild over
Fresh Halibut
We custom cut fresh whole halibut
000.CalgaryCoop_FP_wBL.indd 1 1/28/08 1:47:53 PM

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danger lurks!

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