Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Split
Summer 2019
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to
the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. See page 34.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 5
Foreword
Foreword
With thousands of locals and visitors funneled daily through
the narrow alleys that make up its historic core, Split in sum-
mertime is one of those bustling, sweaty, vibrant Mediter-
ranean cities that becomes more addictive the longer you
stay. Indeed its take-off as a tourist destination has been so
rapid that many are beginning to question whether Split Publisher
still is the grittily authentic Dalmatian port it used to be. Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
Such fears are a little bit on the snobbish side: Split peo- ISSN 1846-856X
ple rather like foreign visitors, and the city is in any case
Company Office & Accounts
big enough to absorb the commercial aspects of tourism
Višnja Arambašić
without losing too much of its gruff personality. Squeezed Split In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
between a pungent fish market at one end and a large, Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
boisterous fruit-and-veg market at the other, Split’s ancient croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
centre is not in any immediate danger of becoming a tour- Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
ist-only zone. Locals are constantly rushing through it with Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja
their shopping bags, brushing past the fork lift-style trucks Editorial
that deliver supplies to the shops and boutiques squeezed Editor Višnja Arambašić
into its tight alleys. The palm-splashed seafront Riva is the Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan
city’s idea of a huge municipal open-air living room-cum- Bousfield, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Nikola Badovinac, Siniša Pavić
office space, filled with locals exchanging gossip, making Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
calls, doing business while sitting at a café table, or simply Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
checking out what everybody else is wearing. Design Bojan - Haron Markičević
So if there’s one city in Europe where you can simply switch Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated
off and go with the flow, it’s Split. Cover © shutterstock.com, Pakleni Islands off Hvar, pristine
beach on remote island, crystal clear water with yachts, aerial
view
COver story Maps Events Restaurants
Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević
Support Sales Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić
Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing
Shopping Hotels
distinctive vegetation, these islands CARE LESS thiS Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
SummER #boLimEpipi copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publica-
landscapes are protected. The Beaches, Festivals
& Activities tion may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the
Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher
their interesting name from a little and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
known fact...tar and resin used for license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
coating the bottoms of boats used tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Split (Croatia) In Your Pocket is not respon-
sible for any information which might change after publication.
to be cooked here. N°16 - complimentary copy
split.inyourpocket.com
Top Summer
Events
ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER
EVENTS IN split AND SURROUNDINGS
WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS...
Top Summer Events
01.05 - 01.10 » Šotobraco Splitom 15.06 - 01.10 » The Night of
For a true cultural experience, every Thursday evening, a Croatian Folklore
group of acclaimed dancers from the ‘Jedinstvo’ Folk En- Ever since 2006, 45 folk ensemble performers accompa-
semble present famous old dances and choreographies nied by a mandolin orchestra perform a 90 minute set
from the Split area as accompanied by a walking mandolin which takes place on the central stage of the main Riva.
orchestra. See the performers wear classical folk costumes The program is composed of 9 dance choreographies
considered priceless by many. The ensemble starts off a from all parts of Croatia. Dances are performed in authen-
the back entry of the Croatian National Theater and in an tic folk costumes and for each of them performers change
almost procession like fashion moves to 5 different loca- their costumes as a contribution to an unforgettable ex-
tions through the night bringing much joy to all. Qwww. perience.QI‑3, Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog prepo-
kud-jedinstvo.hr. roda, www.kud-jedinstvo.hr.
Olive Tree
This atmospheric restaurant and bar on the city centre wa-
terfront has excellent, imaginative food and warm service.
Ovčice
In the intimate Ovčica cove next to Bačvice, this café has
been a favourite meeting spot of the people of Split for
decades and is a bastion of rock music.
Kavana Procaffe
Coffee and excellent home-made cakes to the tune of the
Pipi Archives water lapping at the boats in Spinut harbour.
Žbirac The Marjan park forest has promenades and biking trails.
This legendary café has the best vantage spot on Bačvice Uphill, downhill, on gravel and tarmac, through forests,
beach and serves great coffee with a smile. along the waterside and through pines. And here you’ll find
the Museum of Senses, so you can challenge your senses to
Dvor experience what they have never experienced before while
People rave about this café and restaurant in the Firule Bay you wonder if such a thing is even possible. An open mind
for its fabulous food and drink, as well as the perfect beach- is a miraculous thing. Because it’s summer, and you don’t
side location. give a Pipi.
14 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Restaurants
All those who favor iće & piće have
the opportunity to try some fine
dining restaurants, brasseries
and bistros, as well as traditional
Dalmatian taverns
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 15
Restaurants
the inspiration that connects to me, the team I work with,
the restaurant, and of course, the demands and needs of the
guests who are growing in numbers each year and whose
demands are even greater.
It is said that you should let go of the past but restaurant Zoí
definitely doesn’t. In fact, the Emperor’s dining room was Tina Mršić - pastry chef
once right next to the restaurant, giving this place a special A pastry chef at the Zoí restaurant who is passionate about
historical feel. Zoí (Greek for “life”) offers a unique experi- her job which fills her with delight, and what makes her
ence, embedding food from the ancient trade routes from most happy is when guests feel the beauty of the desserts
Lebanon to Greece, Italy, France and the Balkans. Cultures she prepares.
and music entwine with wine and delicacies that are fine,
and the décor is all stone and modern elegance. The terrace SIYP: Where did you find inspiration in becoming a pas-
overlooking the sea is sublime with the vibe of the town just try chef?
beneath you. That this is an unforgettable and sensual ex- Tina: I found inspiration in my mother’s desserts since she
perience is now recognised by Michelin, who awarded Zoí too is a pastry chef and I have loved sweets and desserts ever
two forks and spoons denoting comfort and quality. Q J‑3, since my early childhood.
Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 23, tel. (+385-21)
63 74 91, www.zoi.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (75 - 250kn). SIYP: What are your favourite flavour combinations?
APTBJ6Wi Tina: My favourite flavour combination is vanilla and cara-
mel.
Ivica Katić - chef SIYP: What is your favourite Croatian dessert?
SIYP: What inspired you to become a chef? How did you Tina: My favourite Croatian desert is the Zagreb Chocolate
start out? Cake.
Ivica: Since my early childhood, I loved to play in the kitchen
with my family and when it was time to decide on a fu- SIYP: Which homemade ingredient do you feel is not
ture path, the answer was very clear –‘I want to be a Chef!’ being used as much but could make for a great des-
In the beginning, it was very difficult to decide on what to sert?
do, which road to take? So I did all kinds of jobs and gained Tina: The fig is little used in today’s desserts and for this rea-
various experiences across various types of restaurants and son we have decided to make a great dessert made of figs.
hotels in Croatia and abroad.
SIYP: Which desserts that encompass authentic ingre-
SIYP: What is your philosophy of food? dients from the menu would you recommend to Zoí
Ivica: My food philosophy is that there is something special guests?
in each dish, in its appearance and mostly in taste. Therefore, Tina: Certainly our new dessert with fig. A light vanilla cream
I combine Mediterranean cuisine by using primarily local with mascarpone cheese, figs with prošek and a touch of lav-
ingredients with some international influences. Every dish ender. Ingredients that represent Dalmatia have been com-
and menu that I develop is my own creation and reflects on bined into a beautiful light dessert.
16 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Reservations:
+385 21 63 74 91
www.zoi.hr
Noštromo
Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of
seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo
is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area
and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of din-
ing here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the
ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.
QI‑2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, www.
restoran-nostromo.hr. Open 06:00-24:00. (100 - 250kn).
APGB6W
Oštarija u Viđakovi
Just a few steps from Bačvice beach, this tavern contin-
ues centuries-long tradition of family Viđakovi. Traditional
recipes and distinctive atmosphere with old photographs
and exhibited artefacts evoke memories from the past.The
menu is diverse, including meals such as braised beef with
gnocchi, homemade beef tripe, various cod dishes (bian-
co, stew and baked), cold and hot starters (octopus salad,
fish carpaccio, cuttlefish black risotto, Frutti di Mare pasta)
and plenty of grilled meat and fresh fish. Pour it down with
carefully chosen Croatian red and white wines and enjoy
in live music in the garden throughout the summer sea-
son. This is the place to feel the spirit of old Split and enjoy
the original Dalmatian food.QD‑3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna
8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open
Zoí Archives
09:00-24:00. (50 - 150kn). APGXBL6W i
18 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
Uje Oil Bar name actually refers to the art of eating!QI‑2, Josipa
Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Jelačića 19, tel. (+385-21) 81 93 24. Open 08:00-24:00;
Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining closed Sun. (70 - 180kn). APGSJWK i
with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the
fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that Bistro Mazzgoon
doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round Nestled in a courtyard, the stone walls surrounding the
and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ‑2, outdoor terrace are tastefully decorated with greenery
Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar. and fresh flowers adorn the tables, offering a homey and
hr/. Open 10:00-24:00. (60 - 120kn). AP G B J calming atmosphere. Delicious gnocchi and pasta dishes
6W i are offered, such as truffle pasta or pasta with sun dried to-
matoes, as well as meat and fish dishes that will make your
Zlatna ribica mouth water.QJ‑2, Bajamontijeva 1, tel. (+385-) 098 987
Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serv- 77 80. Open 12:00-24:00. (120 - 220 kn). APGX
ing scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and E6W i
savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and
camera and you will fit right in.QI‑2, Kraj Svete Marije
8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Open
06:00-22:00. From June Open 06:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn).
NPGW
Modern European
ArtiČok
This very cosy and sleek restaurant is all about attention
to detail. Platters, soups, risottos, tuna, rabbit, mussels,
homemade macaroni, anti-pasta and so much more to of-
fer. A genuine touch of hedonism on the menu and why
not! Gluten free options are also available. FYI, the Čok in ARTiČOK Archives
ArtiČok is Dalmatian slang for a small bite, so the whole
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 19
Restaurants
Bokeria Kitchen & Wine
Simply put, this restaurant is stunning! Bokeria was in-
spired by the La Boqueira market in Barcelona. The mod-
ern and classy interior has smooth shelves lining the walls,
which are stacked with wine bottles and liquor, while a
mosaic tiled bar creates a spanish-like feel to the place. A
massive chandelier hangs from a 850 meter chain in the
middle of the room and extends over two floors. The res-
taurant offers simple Mediterranean meals and the menu
is decided based on the season and the vegetables avail-
able. It’s located near Split’s market, which ensures that
the ingredients are always fresh.QI‑2, Domaldova 8, tel.
(+385-21) 35 55 77. Open 08:00-23:30. (120 - 250kn).
APGXTBJ6W i
Brasserie on 7
Located along Split’s famous Riva waterfront overlooking
the Adriatic. French gastronomy is combined with Croa-
tian cuisine to create delicious dishes throughout the day.
Breakfast includes French toast, eggs benedict, croissants,
acai bowl, chia pudding, egg white omelette, your typi-
Ceviche, Zinfandel’s food & wine bar Archives
cal English style breakfast and homemade granola with
muesli. Early birds can waddle in from 07:30 - 11:00. Lunch
and dinner specialties include spinach and grilled octo- Dvor
pus salad, veal fillet, 300grm rib eye steak, cheese plat- Dvor is located right on the coast and is an amazing spot
ters, tuna steak and the Fruit de mer are just some of the for a delicious meal. Simply decorated with white walls
appetizing Mediterranean meals available.QI‑2, Obala and black-and-white photography, while green, pink and
hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 27 82 purple colourful chairs add splashes of colour to the place.
33, www.brasserieon7.com. Open 07:30-24:00. (70 - 190 Offering delectable Mediterranean dishes, as well as de-
kn). APGXTBJ6W i licious desserts.QE‑3, Put Firula 14, tel. (+385-21) 57 15
13. Open 08:00-24:00; Sun 09:00-24:00; Fri, Sat 08:00-
Cardo 01:00. (80 - 180kn). APGXTB6W i
A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed
by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine Marshal
that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a Located in the Marmont Hotel, this charming and pictur-
wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the esque restaurant has a modern and cozy environment all
wallet and is sure to please.QJ‑1, Domovinskog rata 49a rolled into one. They offer various types of breakfast combo
(Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel- meals, which include eggs, pastries, coffee and juice, such
atrium.hr. Open 06:00-23:00. (75 - 120kn). APG as the Continental Breakfast or Mediterranean Breakfast,
XBW i to start your morning off right. For lunch and dinner, they
offer cold and warm appetizers, soups and salads, as well
as delicious risottos or meat and fish dishes. For a perfect
end to any meal, order from a selection of homemade
cakes, desserts and ice cream.QI‑2, Zadarska 13 (Hotel
Marmont), tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60, www.marmonthotel.
com/restoran. Open 07:00-22:00. From June Open 07:00
- 23:00. (150 - 250kn). APGXBL6W i
Mistral
Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience
with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.
The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments
of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves
up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other
delicacies.QF‑3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort,
Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, www.radissonblu.com/
resort-split. Open 09:00-18:00. (80 - 200kn). AXT
Photo by Pablo Merchán, Toto’s Burger Bar Archives
BL6W
20 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer
season, it’s open until 02:00.QI‑2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel.
(+385-) 099 498 18 88, www.bistro-nostress.com. Open
08:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn). AXBEJ6W i
Zrno Soli
This restaurant, located at the ACI Marina, is stylish both
in and out. The cuisine is creative Mediterranean, with the
kitchen headed by an excellent and energetic chef. Ser-
vice is second to none and with a million dollar view over-
looking the old city of Split, the yachts and the harbour,
NoStress Bistro a relaxing meal here is a memorable experience.QC‑2,
Located on the famous Narodni trg, this ultra-chic bistro is Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 434
decorated with an abundance of flower pots that adorn the 30 50, www.zrnosoli.hr/. Open 08:00-24:00; Fri, Sat, Sun
terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. It’s a great 08:00-01:00. (80-250kn). APGXB6W i
spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion
trends walking by the square while nibbling on contempo-
rary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian re- Quick Eats
gion. For your first meal of the day, the breakfast offer (08:00 Bepa
- 11:30) consists of omelette, toast, eggs benedict and a hot Located in the heart of the Old Town in Split, this charming
cappuccino. Lunch and beyond includes wasabi tuna on street food restaurant is the perfect spot for a quick meal
diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese and beef with omelettes, poached eggs with avocado or sand-
wiches from 07:00 - 11.30. There after, they serve all kinds
of dishes, such as salads, homemade pastas, burgers, fish
ethnic and meats from the grill, or delicious vegetarian and vegan
Biser Orijenta meals. To satisfy your sweet tooth, grab a chocolate lava
Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The lo- cake or a piece of blueberry pie. The green wooden tables
cation is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on and chairs, surrounded by small potted trees decorating
the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, the outdoor terrace, give an earthy green peaceful feel
but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all to the place.QI‑2, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 55 46,
that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QF‑3, www.bepa.hr. Open 08:00-23:00. (40 - 200kn). AP
Ul. Juraja Dobrile 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76. Open GTBJ6W i
11:30-24:00. (80 - 200kn). APXB6W
Corto Maltese Freestyle Food
Bistro Samurai Enjoy a delicious Mediterranean meal set within brick
Conveniently situated in the city centre and just walls and a wooden bar that provide for an American-like
across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast setting thus juxtaposing the Mediterranean cuisine on of-
range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, fer. You can get a variety of meals here, from fruit salad
one can expect the complete Japanese experience in to fish and sandwiches. Their versatile menu will satisfy
food, dining and culture.QI‑2, Bana Josipa Jelačića everyone’s taste buds. For the biggest meal of the day
1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, www.sushibarsplit. (08:00 - 12:00) there are a variety of scrambled eggs and
wixsite.com/samurai?fbclid=IwAR3if4F_D8DaVk omelettes, as well as sandwiches, fruit and cottage cheese
dyApkVJeQamlHSW8Gd97lZcqxJ0cceGpWYSZkak and freshly squeezed juice.QI‑2, Obrov 7, tel. (+385-21)
1c4GTY. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-23:00. (25 - 58 72 01/(+385-) 092 160 10 00, www.cortomaltese.
100kn). APGW rocks. Open 08:00-23:00. (50 - 200kn). APGX
TBEJ6W i
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 21
Restaurants
Kantun Paulina
Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, name-
ly strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand
on the corner serves them up right. There’s no seating
available but you can park it on a bench at the street and
watch the night-time drama unfold.QI‑2, Matošića 1, tel.
(+385-21) 39 59 73. Open 08:00-24:00, Sun 10:00-24:00.
(20 - 40kn). NPGBW
Pikulece
For a unique and tasty meal, stop by the Dalmatian Tapas bar
and restaurant, where you can savour excellent flavours in a
variety of meat and fish dishes, such as mussels, octopus grill,
as well as tasty bruschetta and quiche. The cozy wooden at-
mosphere and beautifully presented food will leave you with
a satisfied gastronomic experience.QJ‑2, Dominisova 6, tel.
(+385-) 095 200 80 08, www.oilbar.hr. Open 18:00-24:00.
(80 - 200kn). APGTBJ6W Sardines, Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Na kantunu
Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge
Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at
least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve
picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your
arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however
is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small
square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few
Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed
Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ‑2,
Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00-
01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00-01:00. PXB6W
Noor Bar
This stunning bar packs into its small interior a fabulous
selection of quality spirits and specialises in craft cocktails.
Central the Club Archives Superbly imaginative and absolutely delicious, each cock-
tail really is hand crafted for your olfactory pleasure and
visual splendour. Cool, refined and very special.QI/J‑2, Ba-
Bars jamontijeva 2, tel. (+385-)098 987 77 80, www.noor.bar.
Academia Club Ghetto Open 06:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 06:00-02:00. APGW
Walk in and be blown away by the hundreds of bobbles
hanging off the ceiling, not to mention some super hip art ST Riva
décor on the walls and semi bohemian furniture. A bohe- Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located
mian oasis in the heart of the Diocletian Palace! The drinks along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot
menu is whacky with a great offer that covers local to summer nights. Its greatest value is the sublime views you
global liquors, cognacs, wines… Kickback to world music have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill
during the day and then the music turns electro at night. whilst sipping beverages.QI‑2, Obala hrvatskog narod-
QJ‑2, Dosud 10. Open 10:00-01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. nog preporoda 18. Open 07:00-24:00. PGBJW
NPXBEJ6W
ADDRESS
Uvala Bačvice BB
FREE DRIVE CALL
+385 (0)21 465 056
WORKING HOURS
Every day: 21:00 - 06:00
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 27
Nightlife
Gooshter Beach Club
As part of the Le Meridien Lav Hotel in Split, Gooshter is
beach club where the midday ring of the gong means the
start of a new day. Well-tuned DJs, cocktails made on the
beach, and a cuisine which fuses East and South merge.
The interior gives attention to the ubiquitous animals from
the Mediterranean. The evening programme turns up a
notch with entertainment provided throughout the night.
- S P L I T - Z A D A R - QGrljevačka 2A, Podstrana, tel. (+385-) 091 444 42 01.
From June Open 11:00 - 24:00. AXUBELW
PLACE
Zenta Club
Welcome to one of Split’s newest additions to the club
scene which is becoming a hit amongst locals. Zenta
TO
is outside the city but on the beachfront and is open as
a beach bar in the mornings and then transforms into a
nightclub when the sun sets. Zenta has multiple floors and
a terrace to dance the night away. Themed nights are part
and parcel of the event programme and it’s open ‘till 5am
every night of the week.QE‑3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-
) 098 45 55 78, www.zentasplit.com. From June Open
Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat 23:00 - 05:00. APGXB
E6W
Pub
Fabrique - FUN & BBQ Pub
Located centrally in the historical palace, the sheer interior
oozes all that is old ‘n’ new and the lighting really sets the
tone. Beer wise, there are 40 or so international beers and
top Croatian craft beers. Fabrique has DJs spinning tunes
every evening and you can stay all night or drop in for
some warm up drinks before a night out.QI‑2, Trg Franje
Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 098 175 12 71. Open 10:00-
01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00-02:00. APGXBW
Download FREE
admiral.hr APP! admiral.hr
www.mestrovic.hr
t u
Visi
MEŠTROVIĆ GALLERY / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46, 21 000 Split
MEŠTROVIĆ´S CRIKVINE-KAŠTILAC / Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 39, 21 000 Split
T: +385 (0)21 340 800 / mim@mestrovic.hr / TUE - SUN 9 am - 7 pm, MON - closed
(+385-21) 34 08 00, www.mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00- of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović in-
19:00, Closed Mon. From October Open 09:00 - 16:00, cluded. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photo-
Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission graphs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the
20kn Children, 40kn Adults, 60kn Family. chin-strokers to ponder over. The museum’s temporary ex-
hibitions blending local and international artists, site-specif-
Museum of Croatian Archaeologi- ic audio installation in the museum’s atrium, as well as Art &
cal Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih Wine workshops open for applications, all add to the highly
arheoloških spomenika) interesting and enriching experience. Current information
Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian on all the upcoming events can be viewed at the museum’s
archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian website.QJ‑2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35
Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent his- 01 17, www.galum.hr. Open 10:00-21:00. Closed Mon.
tory that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, Admission 30/20 kn Children, 60/40 kn Adults.
sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and
sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita)
museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century
chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s
of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several most respected families, built a small palace to serve as
periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA‑3, Šetalište their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the
Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced
39 09, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00-13:00, 17:00-20:00, back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and
Sat 09:00-14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has
grown in subsequent years to include various paintings
Museum of Fine Arts and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monu-
(Galerija umjetnina) ments and statues that were once parts of buildings in
Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most ab- Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numer-
sorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an ous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that
altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of help tell the historical story of Split.QJ‑2, Papalićeva 1, tel.
Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nine- (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, www.mgst.net.
teenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most Open 08:30-22:00. Admission 25/15 kn.
facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket Summer 2019 31
Sightseeing
The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
splitske katedrale)
The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and
church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and ba-
roque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from
1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the
8th century, the Supetar kartular from the 9th century
and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th
century.QJ‑2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.
Churches
Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery
(Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika)
Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint
Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it
Meštrović Gallery, Ivan Mestrovic Museums Archives
acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened
at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved
baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by
Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as
the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00,
08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. The period between
July and September there will be no mass at 11:00 .QJ‑2/3,
Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71. Open 06:30 - 12:00,
17:30 - 19:00.
Landmarks
Grgur Ninski
In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called
together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of
SPLIT
the then current church system. The Great Assembly took
place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope
Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with
the only accepted language for Mass and official Church
business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of food & historical
debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the
middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side
of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as
walking tours
Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of politi- experience this
cal and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the
cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero unique combination
and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see of gastronomy, culture
the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by
another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north and history in Split
gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for
good luck).QJ‑2.
Regulaevrertoyurs
35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed
by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for day!
the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened
by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team
who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split.
10.30am -1.30pm
Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known HISTORICAL & GASTRO
for cultivating quality football players, with several going TREASURES
on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it morning food&cultural tour
to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in
the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former 3:00pm - 6.00pm
Hajduk players. In 2015, the Poljud Stadium was declared SPLIT FOOD TOUR
as a protected cultural monument of the Republic of Croa- afternoon food&cultural tour
tia.QD/C‑2.
Priva te tours
food tour on request !
eat in split food tours
food tours
Get the ultimate gastonomic experience with fully
experienced tour guides who have a passion for food
and wine. Choose from snack, wine, history and gas-
tro tours through to cooking up a 5 course meal with booking and info:
a leading local chef. The combination of thorough www.eatinsplitfoodtours.com
city knowledge and its impact on age old recipes
gives visitors a deeper insight into typcial Dalmatian info@eatinsplitfoodtours.com
and Medittereanean cuisine. Qtel. (+385) 098 34 38 + 385 98 343 815
15, www.eatinsplitfoodtours.com. travel agency
HR-AB-21-060366326
.
Da’Mar
The restaurant at the MarvieHotel & Health
brings Mediterranean, mostly gluten-free
delicacies to the table. So if you’re looking
for a healthy, delicious, cutting-edge three
or four course gluten-free dinner menu, this
is the place to go. Why not make time for
a visit to the spa and a beauty treatment
too?QE‑3, Peričićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 27
98 00, www.marviehotel.com. Open
12:00-22:00. 115-190kn. APGU
BLW
Da’Mar Restaurant, Marvie Hotel & Health Archives
info@marviehotel.com
marviehotel.com
Split Surroundings
Musum Alka of Sinj, Sinj Tourist Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives
Split Surroundings
don’t make mistake of missing some
of these great places in split’s
surrounding areas
Regional Staples & Maybe because of its distance from the mainland, the is-
Local Delicacies land of Vis has preserved one particular snack-food special-
ity that (traditionally at least) is found here and nowhere
One of the great joys of eating out in Dalmatia is the sheer else. The famously tangy and aromatic Viška pogača (Vis
plentitude of fresh fish, seafood and gallons of good wine pie) consistsof a bready outer casing and an anchovy-and-
to wash it all down with. However there is much more to onion filling. Traditionally there are two types of pogača:
Dalmatian cooking than the standard menus of holiday- the Viška pogača from Vis Town comes with the basic fill-
resort restaurants. Combining the salty riches of the Adriatic ing described above; while the Komiška pogača from the
sea with the meats, vegetables and orchard fruits of the inte- other side of the island comes with extra tomato. Pies like
rior, Dalmatian cuisine is a many-coloured mosaic of regional these are sold by the main bakeries in both Vis Town and
specialities and local variations. Komiža and are an essential inclusion in any local picnic.
Street snacks are a good place to start: one traditional dish Variations on the anchovy-pie theme occasionally appear
that has made a sudden and welcome return to local baker- on café and restaurant menus elsewhere in Croatia al-
ies is the Soparnik, a large circular pie made from thin pastry though they can’t really compare with the original article.
and a succulent filling of blitva (Swiss chard) and onions or One Vis-pie surrogate we can heartily recommend is the
garlic. Indigenous to the region of Poljica (the coastal strip pizza-dough version produced by Pizzeria Kariola, which
that lies between Split and Omiš), it was long considered has branches in Vis Town and Zagreb.
a simple rustic dish that wouldn’t be of much interest to
gourmet sophisticates. Reinvented as a symbol of the age- When it comes to festive food and slap-up meals, it’s the
old originality of local cooking, the soparnik has enjoyed mountainous area inland from the Dalmatian coast, the
something of a renaissance in recent years and is now avail- Zagora, that offers most in the way of unique recipes. As
able from bakeries throughout Dalmatia, especially in central well as supporting a small amount of livestock, these starkly
Split. It is also a regular feature of the outdoor culinary festi- beautiful uplands are home to freshwater trout, shrimps,
vals that take place over the summer. The soparnik usually frogs and snails. Frogs used to be a peasant staple and are
takes the form of a huge disc, rather like an oversized pizza, nowadays considered a local delicacy. They are prepared in
and is cut into slices to be eaten as a delicious savoury various ways: grilled, fried in breadcrumbs or stewed in a
street snack. Be warned that fresh soparnik usually disap- big iron pot – the spicy,tomato-and-paprika-flavoured frog
pears like proverbial hot cakes – if you see it in the bakery stew (brujet od žaba) is a strong weekend favourite. Cuts
display window, grab your slice while you can. of veal and lamb are often slow-cooked under a peka or
www.dalmatia.hr • info@dalmatia.hr
Top Sights
Cetina River Canyon
Thanks to this position at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš
and the nearby villages offer many activities which can
turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure. One
of these is rafting on the Cetina. If you are a swimmer,
experienced skippers will help you negotiate the rapids
and you’ll feel as though you’re flying along in the dinghy.
Rafting trips start from the Pavić bridge, which was built
during the time of the Emperor Franz Joseph. A speciality
of this region is fried frogs’ legs wrapped in slices of pro-
sciutto and cooked in red wine with rosemary. There’s also
poljički soparnik which is a listed item of cultural heritage.
QOmiš, www.visitomis.hr.
Jakšić Gallery
Jakšić gallery is an exhibition space in Donji Humac on the
island of Brač. The artistic family Jakšić has a 115 year long
tradition in stone shaping. Their story begins in 1903 when Museum Alka of Sinj, Photo by Ilija Veselica, Sinj Tourist
their ancestor opened the first stone - carving workshop. Board, Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board Archives
Dražen Jakšić, artistically educated, inherits a stone - carv-
ing workshop from his father and modernizes it according
to time. Today Jakšić family consists of four members, all of
whom are educated in the art, so it was necessary to cre-
ate a space in which they can exhibit their works. Jakšić
gallery was built in 2008, in the yard of the family house,
where their grandfather first exhibited his works. Beside
the gallery are workshops and ateliers where it is possible
to see the artists in work, as well as the process of creating
works of art and stone shaping. In the gallery you can find:
unique jewelery from semiprecious stones and silver made
by fashion designer Ida Stipčić Jakšić, stone sculptures by
the academic sculptor Lovre Jakšić, paintings by dr.art. Dina
Jakšić Pavasović and various usable and decorative objects
made of stone.QDonji Humac 75, Nerežišća, Brač island,
tel. (+385-) 98 42 24 99, www.galerijajaksic.com. Open
09:00-20:00; Sat, Sun 10:00-19:00. A
Klis
One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessi-
ble fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on
sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view
of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with Jakšić Gallery Archives
North of Split producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this
region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured
Some might say that Trogir is the ‘mini-me’ of Split, it’s a fine area.
pit stop as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its medi-
eval stone churches, monasteries, palaces and squares. Our Marina Tourist Board
tip is the Kamerlengo Fortress which has grand views for QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, www.tz-
taking photos. For another step back in time the town of marina.hr. Open 08:00-20:00.
Solin, which is an ancient Roman settlement and happens
to be the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian still has its well
preserved amphitheatre, town gate, fortress and other his- Trogir
torical buildings. Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance
away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses
incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of
Marina which have been built upon by a progression of genera-
Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is lo- tions during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of
cated in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly half- Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic,
way in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxta-
Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surround- posed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir
ed by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from
tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid different eras.
hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the
throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region
Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by until well into the Roman era, when its importance was
Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Rivi- diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other
era consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous se-
Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear ries of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods
blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora of subservience to outside governments, with the city fi-
region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore nally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.
costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This While the former rulers of the region were interested in
area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today
42 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Split Surroundings
are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of Trogir. Okrug, located on the western side of Čiovo, is
of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the made up of two districts, the Upper and Lower. The name
churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the of this place comes from the Croatian word for “circle” since
Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and both places are distributed along a circular bay. The nu-
perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Law- merous bays and beaches have made this area one of the
rence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master most popular tourist destinations in Croatia. Along with
artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to beautiful spots for swimming, a wide range of sporting
the cathedral in 1240. activities are offered on the beaches, such as scuba diving,
The cultural and historical significance of the town and water skiing, paragliding, as well as fitness centers and ten-
its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the nis courts. After a long day spent relaxing in the sunshine,
United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organi- there are numerous restaurants and bars along the coast,
zation) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage with great music, for a fun night out.
sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s his-
tory. While traditionally an economy focused on agricul- Okrug Tourist Board
ture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will QBana Josipa Jelačića 15, Okrug Gornji, tel. (+385-21)
almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast 88 73 11, www.tzo-okrug.hr. Open 07:00-21:00.
becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists
from around the world.
Kaštela
Trogir Tourist Board Between Split and Trogir, 20 km to the south, lies a se-
QTrg Ivana Pavla II/1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, www. quence of seven small towns known collectively as
visittrogir.hr. Open 08:00-20:00; Sun 09:00-13:00. ‘Kaštela’ (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you
drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see
signs directing to (Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel
Čiovo Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel
Čiovo, a mountainous island in central Dalmatia, extends Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to
eastward and encloses the Kaštela bay. Well-known towns provide shelter from marauding pirates or Turks. It would
and villages on the island include Trogir, Arbanija and Slati- take the better part of a day to check out their interesting
na, as well as Okrug Gornji and Donji. The island is con- architectural features. Of particular interest is the newly
nected to the mainland by a small bridge in the old center built Marina Kaštela which accommodates private and
Makarska Riviera
here you’ll find some of the most
photographed, most famous and
most prized beach resorts on the
adriatic
Mountain biker riding a bike at the seaside and mountains landscape, Photo by shutterstock
Spring and autumn are the best times for cycling – which
is good news if you’re travelling as a family because ac-
commodation prices are more bearable at this time of year.
Cycling through the countryside it’s important to bear in
mind that a lot of rural inns will be closed outside the sum-
mer season – all the more reason to pack a bottle of water
and some energy-giving snacks. Bear in mind also that the
sun can shine hard from Easter right through to October, so
headgear is essential as well as plenty of fluid.
Photo by Brela Tourist Board Archives The Central Dalmatia Bike map, available for free from Ma-
karska Tourist Office, is your best guide to routes. Detailed
Whichever part of the Biokovo massif you chose to explore route descriptions and advice on where to take a break are
you’ll be treated to a fantastic range of landscape and flora, printed on the reverse side of the map. Indeed this map
with a variety of rock-hugging alpine shrubs and flowers will more than suffice if you are thinking of exploring the
totally different to the palm trees and olive groves of the coastal routes. If your heart is set on exploring the Biokovo
coastal strip. massif, however, you are well advised to supplement the
tourist office’s cycling map by purchasing a more detailed
Cycling up and down hills in a test of your all-round rug- guide to the area such as the 1:25 000 Biokovo hiking map
ged-ness is far from being the only kind of biking on offer. published by SMAND and available in local shops. Once
The less demanding coastal rides can also be exhilarating, you are out on the paths, waymarkers (consisting of a pic-
especially those heading east and west from Makarska ture of a cyclist accompanied by a number and a colour
town. With plenty of pebbly-beach stops and coastal cafes code) will let you know you’re on the right path.
offering refreshments,they are perfect for families as well
as being suitable for cyclists of medium stamina. Heading By Jonathan Bousfield
east from Makarska, the trail to Tučepi takes you across the
wooded Osejava peninsula, criss-crossed by gravel paths.
On the southern side of the peninsula is Nugal Beach, a fa-
mously beautiful pebbly cove.
Top Sights
The Antun Gojak Town Gallery
(Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka)
The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by
Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother
Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van
Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life
itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town
gallery in the building of the former grammar school.
Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the Photo by Makarska Tourist Board Archives
collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the
Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cul- The Franciscan Monastery of the
tural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, www.galerija-antun-gojak.hr. (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na
Depends on exhibitions. Admission free. nebo uznesene)
The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia build-
The Biokovo NATURE PARK ing their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were
The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and po-
range and has a number of information centres and edu- litical opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely
cational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required monastery you see today came into being. The old mon-
to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarska – Vrgorac astery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a
road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery
is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming
the terrain is rugged – wear strong shoes or hiking boots. part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks stud-
The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at ied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library
sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as jour-
Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is nals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular,
forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force. Dr. Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation
Presentation centre Makarska: phone (+385-21) 61 69 24. of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still ac-
Presentation Centre Adrion - Heart of the Mountain tive today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological
Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park. Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected
Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 institution with good links with similar museums around
- 20:00, Closed Mon. the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant spe-
cies of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put
1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-
TOURIST INFORMATION split.hr.
By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip
Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mo- don Mihovila Pavlinovića)
star (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.
and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolod- And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don
vor.com. Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who
became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival,
By train: Makarska is not served by the railway net- a political movement campaigning for the right to self-
work. Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then determination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of
transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www. Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after
hznet.hr. him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an
unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful
By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.
Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj
on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija. Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole)
hr. Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an im-
pressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the
Main Bus Station town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know
(Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who cre-
There is one desk for information and tickets. The ated the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s
manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches
same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn for sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in
the first hour, 1,50kn for each additional hour.QAnte 1999.QBaška Voda.
Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.
Open 05:30-22:30. the vepric shrine
On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set
Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to
On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook
tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Mar-
(+385-21) 67 95 15, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 ian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop
- 09:00, 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 18:30. July, August Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto
Open 07:00 - 21:00. similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young
girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the
Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has
From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the is- a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and
land of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and
need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few
and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto- moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here
taxi.com. you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February,
25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September.
54 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Top Places To Shop
Dalmacijavino
A wide variety of juices and other beverages offered, of
which the most famous is produced by the brand, ‘Pipi.’QI‑2,
Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 13, www.dalmacijavino.hr.
Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-22:00.
Dancing Bear
Dancing Bear is an exclusive record company in Croatia
that represents numerous artists, such as Zinedine Zidane,
Cold Snap, Đani Stipaničev, Meri Cetinić, Tutti Frutti and
many more. Their stores offer many records featuring lo-
cal and international artists.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel.
(+385-21) 34 43 09, www.dancingbear.hr. Open 08:30-
20:30, Sun 09:00-14:00. A
Gligora
Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag.
It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised
cheeses.QD‑3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-
21) 27 42 59, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00-20:00, Sun
08:00-13:00. A
56 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Top Places To Shop
Havana Cigar Shop workshop in 1903. The family trade was passed on from
A special shop with a wide selection of Cuban, Dominican, generation to generation and in 2008, this extraordinary
Nicaraguan and other premium cigars, pipes, lighters, hu- family turned the ancient workshop into an art gallery,
midors, cigar accessories and an admirable range of exclu- which includes both workshops and studios. Six years
sive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a wide selection of later they opened up a gallery in the center of Split. Their
men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for you. gallery contains unique silver jewelry created by Ida, sculp-
QI‑2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, www.havana- tures using white Brač stone by Lovre and oil paintings by
cigar-shop.com. Open 09:00-21:00; closed Sun. AJ Dina.QD‑2, Bribirska 10, tel. (+385-) 098 70 19 03, www.
galerijajaksic.com. Open 09:00-13:30,16:00-20:00, Sat
Jakšić Gallery 09:00-13:30. Closed Sun. A
The gallery is run by the Jakšić family, from Donji Humac, a
village located on the island of Brač. The owner and father, Jaman Art Centar
Dražen, is a known stonemasonry, the mother Ida Stipčić Danijel Jaman is an academic painter from Split. His works
Jakšić, a fashion designer, their son Lovre, an academic can be seen in his gallery in Šubićeva 3 and the JAMAN
sculptor and their daughter Dina has a doctoral degree art center at Dobrić 14. The design of the gallery brings
in arts. Their ancestors created the first stonemasonry in lots of natural light which aids in intensifying displayed
images. The approach here is based on current trends in
‘New Pop-Art’ which focuses on using heightened colours
when portraying subjects on pictures such as phones, NY
registration plates, vinyl panels, chains… Also at Šubićeva
3, I-2.QI‑2, Dobrić 14, tel. (+385-21) 28 01 28/(+385-) 098
32 27 19, www.jaman-art.com. Open 10:00-23:00. A
Koza unikati
The word koza means ‘goat’, a symbol of the Croatian re-
gion of Istria, and this family business has it as their logo.
The Zoričić family create, design and produce beautiful
and timeless male and female first-class leather bags, wal-
lets, purses and belts. All materials are natural and some of
the products are made on the classic ‘Singer sewing ma-
chine’ and without electricity. It doesn’t get much more
authentic than that!QI‑2, Zadarska ulica 6, tel. (+385-)
099 253 14 99. Open 09.30-21:30; Sun 10:00-14:00. A
Ledenko
Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail hand-
made Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be
the winning formula for that special occasion.QI‑2, Dom-
aldova 5, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00-21:00; closed
Sun. From June 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00. A
Nadalina
Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and choco-
late with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, laven-
der or almonds are what makes these so special. And deli-
58 Split In Your Pocket split.inyourpocket.com
Top Places To Shop
cious, may we add!QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385-21) Strossmayer Park (Đardin)
35 53 84/(+385-) 091 210 88 89, www.nadalina.hr. Open You never know what you can find but by attending this
08:30-20:30; Sun 08:30-14:00. A flea market it gives visitors a real atmosphere of Split’s in-
habitants and how they breathe and sleep. See from old
Namfleg Watches & Jewelry objects, coins, ornaments, books, magazines and other
Specialising in the cloisonné technique, this boutique has rare things that are up for sale. The fair becomes especially
a workshop and furnace allowing you to see how the jew- popular and lively during the summer months, when the
ellery is worked into delicate metal compartments which city is flooded with tourists from all over the world.QO-
are filled with vividly-coloured enamel powder and fired pen 08:00 - 20:00.
and polished to a glassy lustre. Split’s boutique has a spe-
cial collection featuring motifs inspired by the city.QI‑2, Think Pink
Ulica Marka Marulića 3, tel. (+385-21) 29 24 43, www. One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and
namfleg.com/pages/split. Open 09:00-22:00. AJ where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes
and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at
Nered its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 09:00 - 22:30.QI‑2,
Chic antique! Selection of wonderful decorative items Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26. Open 09:00 - 22:00.
from ceramics, jewellery, bags , greeting cards, stationery From July 15 Open 09:00 - 23:00. AJ
and hundreds of other products all made by designers
and artisans from Croatia.QJ‑2, Dominisova 2, tel. (+385- TRI store
) 099 194 92 48, www.neredshop.com. Open 09:00- TRI is a newly opened store at Zadar Street, which has
21:00. A the task of supporting young local designers. The offer
consists of hand-printed t-shirts and some of the more
Oleoteka Uje demanding tulle dresses. The emphasis is on Croatian
Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, product; simple, bearable, high quality and affordable to
jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all. Brands currently available include Levin Coco, IssaArts
all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, and Fairytulle. QI‑2, Zadarska 5, tel. (+385-) 099 253 14
‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 22:00.QJ‑2, 99. Open 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-14:00.
Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, www.uje.hr. Open
09:00 - 21:00. June Open 09:00 - 22:00. From July Open
09:00 - 23:00. A
Pipi
Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe
this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked
its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long
history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi
has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia,
and especially the Dalmatian region.QD‑2, P.I.Čajkovskog
1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 54/(+385-) 091 411 22 44,
www.dalmacijavino.hr. Open 08:00-21:00, Fri, Sat
08:00-22:00. Closed Sun. A
Spalato
The authentic store perfect for that take home memoir
souvenir! Popular items include handcrafted glass, jewel-
lery made of Brač stone, Adriatic shellfish, and Istrian bull
horns just to name a few.QJ‑2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel.
(+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45. Open 09:00 -
21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A
Promet Split
QD‑2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, www.
promet-split.hr.
Photo by Višnja Arambašić
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mon
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va
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poljana
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Pe
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dina
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Jadrolinija Pothodnik Zv o
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Church Ferry Line Ob ala Lazareta Bishop’s
Palace
Zlodri
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na
jan
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Theatre Public Toilet Ulica
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Split
ca
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lit
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ć a uli
drin
la Kn
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Radov
a po
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a no
H I J K
ljan
va
Dom
Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board
t/f: +385 (0)21 490 036
info@dalmatia.hr
www.dalmatia.hr
JABUKA
PALAGRUŽA
CY
MY
CM
CMY