DUTCH-INFLUENCED BATIK IN

NORTH COAST JAVA

1840-1940
NORTH COAST OF JAVA

Cirebon Pekalongan Semarang

 Traditional Division

1. Kepala (HEAD)
2. Badan (BODY)
3. Tumpal (triangle teeth shape)
4. Papan ( board)
5. Pinggir (edge)
 What is BATIK
BELANDA?

“ BATIK made by Indo-european manufacturesses

adapting European Pattern and motifs that made
to be sold for the INDO-EUROPEAN and european
client”
 NONNA

“MRS. VAN OUDIJK HAD GONE

TO TAKE OFF HER THINGS AND
TO PUT ON SARUNG AND KABAAI FOR LUNCH”
(THE SILENT FORCE, COUPEROUS)
The Economical Factor
“ Source of income for European widow”
“Form of emancipation for girls of marriageable age
in European Communities”
The rising demands from Indo-
European communities
Timeline
 Influential BATIKKERIJS

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C J Von Franquemont Eliza Van Zuylen

SEMARANG PEKALONGAN

L METZELAAR
PEKALONGAN
 Batik Prankemon

Fairytale pattern
( Bouquet)

VON FRANQUEMONT

(battle of lombok/ war of java)

Batik wayang

VON FRANQUEMONT
Lace Border

VON FRANQUEMONT
CHANGES IN DIVISION

L METZELAAR
Terang bulan “ was considered to
be as form of coquettry”
 BUKETAN

E. V. ZUYLEN
EARLY VAN ZUYLEN “HALLMARKS ARE
CLEAN BACKGROUND ACCENTUATED WITH SIMPLE
DIAGONAL LINE”
 MIRROR
E. V. ZUYLEN

THIS DESIGN IS STILL KNOWN TODAY AS BATIK “Pansellen”

 PAGI SORE “are among the most
expensive kains, clearly not made for the less
well off”

E VAN ZUYLEN
SYNTHETIC DYES

E. VAN ZUYLEN
 Criticism on
Multi colored batik
“instead of having aristocratic taste to
consider quite color of principality
more superior,
the majority of the dutch, have given
preference to the gaudy clothes
produced in the north coast”
(rouffaer, 1914)
SIGNATURES
 Status symbols

“It was customary during a visit, the

woman guest would be shown the
cabinet where the sarong lay
folded.”

“the name of the batik

manufacturer are mentioned and
the signature on the sarong were
shown”
 SERial NumBEr

“from 1937, all pattern got a number and

This was applied directly with the canting
on batik “
Kedungwuni competitor
 Chinese Forgeries
“M.d van zuylen “ Model Dari Van Zuylen
MD. E. v. Zeylen, Mb pansellen,
VAN ZIELEN PEKALONGAN
E.V ZIJLEN....ETC

AFTER 1912.
ON SIGNED BATIK FROM CHINESE BATIK MANUFACTORIES
OFTEN APPEARS
“DILARANG MENIROE”,AUTHOR LAW 1912”
(FORBIDDEN TO COPY, COPYRIGHT 1912)

After 1940, van zuylen dropped the signature

and only use the serial number
 The Decline

World War I (1914-1918)

After 1920,
the pattern on the Batik become more simple
THE DECLINE OF BATIK BELANDA

“MODERN LOOK”
JAPANESE OCCUPATION
FIN