Development of quality and safety manual for infant essential garments

OBJECTIVES
To develop a quality and safety manual for infant essential garment and to study the products catered by different brands in the same segment.

OBJECTIVES
SECONDARY OBJECTIVES To study and standardize the elements, laws associated and Safety of the garments according to the govt. set safety codes and parameters. To understand the infant garment , product available in the market and best practices for infant essential wear. To develop the quality and safety manual and make recommendations on products studied.

NEED OF PROJECT
With the increase in demand of branded Kids apparels in the market, the infant wear segment has seen a boom in past 3 yrs.[1] Though there is a hike in terms of sales and awareness, the market for infants wear remain mostly unorganized and fragmented.[2] Few big names have entered in India in past six years catering to organized infant wear.[3]

NEED OF PROJECT
There are few Indian brands which offers infants wear, Mom n me, Cucumber, Karrot ,Zero to name a few.[1] With the increase in disposable income of India*, new parents want to up bring their child with best they can provide.[2] Clothing is one of the main attribute of infants care and should comply to various laws and regulations.[3]

NEED OF PROJECT
An infant essential wear requires lot of attention, as the end-user is a baby, the garments are intended for daily use and comfort and functionality is most important aspect of infant essential wear.[1]

The need arises is to standardize the quality and safety of the product while taking care of maximizing the functionality of the garment.[]

COMPANY PROFILE
SHOPPERS STOP Setting up its first shop in 1991 with its flagship store in Andheri, Mumbai, Shoppers Stop is a member of the K. Raheja Corp. of Companies. Shoppers Stop is the first retail venture by the K. Raheja Corp. Expanding its operations to Bangalore, Hyderabad, Jaipur, Delhi, Chennai, Mumbai (Andheri, Bandra, Chembur, Kandivli, Mulund), Pune, Gurgaon and Kolkata, Shoppers Stop is today recognized as Indias premier shopping destination.[1]

COMPANY PROFILE
Customer Profile: Shoppers Stops customers fall between the age group of 0 years to 35 years.

Range of merchandise: The stores offer a complete range of apparel and lifestyle accessories for the entire family. From apparel brands for kids like UCB, Nauti Nati, Ruff, Mothercare, Gini n Jony, for adults like Provogue, Color Plus, Arrow, Levis, Van Huesen, Zodiac to cosmetic brands like Lakme, Chambor, Le Teint Ricci etc, Shoppers Stop caters to every lifestyle need. [1]

COMPANY PROFILE
Shoppers' Stop retails its own line of clothing namely Stop, Life , Karrot(INFANT WEAR) Kashish, Vettorio Fratini, Mario Zegnoti, life, Ijeans.[1]

KARROT
This is an inhouse brand of Shoppers stop. It was launched in 2011. Its targeted customer are those who are well known and are ready to pay for the good quality they are getting. This brand deals in essential wear for infants and toddlers.[1]

INDIAN KIDS WEAR MARKET

According to the India Apparel Report, 2012 (Images Year Book, Vol IV), the size of Indian kidswear market is estimated to be at Rs. 45, 000 crore.
Market Share
34.8 % 25% Kids Wear Mens Wear Women s Wear

The volume of market share of kids apparels in the total 40.2 % apparel market is at 24.9%, as against a 15% share in Figures by India Apparel Report, 2005. [1] 2012

GROWTH OF KIDS AND INFANT WEAR MARKET

Kids segment is considered by industry analysts as one of the fastest growing segment, due to increase in child population. A research states that more than 30% of the countrys population is below 15 years of age. The density of population makes kids wear to be one of the fastest growing segments in the Indian market scenario.[1]

OVERVIEW OF UNORGANISED AND ORGANISED RETAIL MARKET

According to the National Accounts Statistics of India the unorganised sector includes units whose activity is not regulated by any statute or legal provision and/or those, which do not maintain regular accounts. [1] Thus, unorganised retailing refers to the traditional formats of low-cost retailing, for example, the local kirana shops, owner managed general stores etc.[2]

Unorganised retailing is characterized as unstructured and high degree of fragmentation with street markets constitutes form peddlers, street vendors, neighbourhood stores and consumer durable stores to manufacturer owned retail outlets.

OVERVIEW OF UNORGANISED AND ORGANISED RETAIL MARKET

Organised retailing refers to trading activities undertaken by licensed retailers, that is, those who are registered for sales tax, income tax, etc. These include the corporate-backed hypermarkets and retail chains, and also the privately owned large retail businesses. In other words, it is a network of similarly branded stores with an element of self-service.[1]

UNORGANISED TO ORGANISED MARKET

Unorganised players have always dominated the market. Manufacturing cheap, big volumes of products in a myriad of styles, these players have spread their distribution across the country, reaching every nook and cranny. Branded apparel sector in India is still in its nascent stage and larger part of the market is still unorganised. But, with more and more companies diverting their revenues towards branded kids wear sector, branded category will supercede the unorganised sector in coming days.[1]

REASON BEING
Rising disposable income of Indian middle-class: The Indian middle-class is the consuming class and the prime target segment for retailers in India. In 2005, it constituted around 6.4 per cent of total households in India but accounted for 20 per cent of the disposable income.

REASON BEING
By 2015, the middle class is expected to constitute around 25 percent of total households and account for 44 per cent of the total disposable income, and by 2025, the respective figures are likely to go up to 46 per cent and 58 per cent. The Indian middle-class population and their growing disposable income levels will drive the future growth of organised retail for infants in India. Current Disposable income of India is $1,577,692.1 US million.[3]

REASON BEING
Increase in working population: India is the secondlargest country in the world in terms of population, and is the largest consumer markets in the world owing to its favourable demographics. In 2012 Indias working population (in the 15-49 years age group) constituted around 63 per cent of the population as compared with 48.6 per cent in the UK, 49 per cent in the US, and 53 per cent in Russia. Further, the increase in the number of working women has fuelled the growth in sales of infant and kids products. There has been a 20 per cent increase in the number of working women in the last decade.[1]

REASON BEING
Branded kids wear players have entered the market and shown their worth. Raymond has ventured in with its kid's brand Zapp. Gini & Jony was brought in by the country's biggest corporate houses. Shoppers Stop has brought Mothercare UK to the country. Amongst international brands, Walt Disney, Barbie, Hot wheels, Okaidi have already set up their base and are happy to be in India. Refreshingly new is Oyo by Spykar. [1]

REASON BEING
As government has allowed 51 per cent FDI in Indian industry, there are many international players entering the junior wear market. Entry of these international brands has accelerated national brands in producing better products at best prices to beat the competition. Today, international firms are striving hard to survive for Indian junior wear industry is complex. Only brands that know minds of Indian consumers well can win. Thus, this is creating healthy competition between national and international brands by making national brands more powerful.[1]

REASON BEING
Nowadays, people prefer to shop at family stores, rather than going to three different stores for purchasing men's wear, women's wear and kids wear. The reason why brands are getting into line extensions can be need for grasping a larger market share and increasing their revenues. [1]

Classification of children on the basis of age.

The market for kids wear is classified as follows:[1]
Infants (0 - 6 months) Toddlers (7 months - 2 years) Kids (3 - 8 Years) Pre-teens (9 - 12 Years) Teens (13-19 years)

Infant Essential Garments

Essential wear as name defines is a necessary minimum clothing which is required to cover ones body to keep it warm, safe from external environment and temperature. Essential wears are generally daily wears which are meant to be more functional and comforting rather than being fashionable and attractive. Essential wear generally fit snugly to body and takes the shape of the body part.

Products in infant essential garment

The products which fall in this category are Body suits, Rompers, Sleeping suit, Front open tee, tee, slips, UGs, Shorts, pyjama, Bibs, booties, mittens, Jhabla, caps, Vest, Body wraps, Beddings, Pyjama with booties of various brands. [1]

BRAND OFFERINGS FOR KIDS APPARELS

Market of infants wear is increasing day by day, many players have entered the market and offering variety of products in essential wear range. The major players in this field are Mothercare, Mom n me, Shoppers stop, Ruff, Westside, Disney, Fisher Price, Zara, Gini n jony , Naughty Nati, Tommy Hilfiger , Me n moms, mee mee, Baby Oye, UCB kids.[1]

Differentiation of brands

Brand offering product for 0-2 yrs. Mothercare , Mom and me , Karrot , Disney , Zara , Zero , Local and online Brands, UCB kids, Nauti Nati westside, little kangaroos , little, moms pet

Brand not offering products for 0-2 yrs. Pantaloons, Ruff, gini and jony, catmoss, Zapp, liliput, Weekender, Tommy hilfiger, Stop, life,

Differentiation based on fashion and essential garment in the above age group
Essential Mothercare , Mom and me , Karrot , Disney , Zara , Zero , Local and online Brands Fashion Mothercare , Mom and me , Stop , UCB , Zara , Nauti nati , little kangaroos.

Product offering by different Brands in essential section

Product offering Price list [1]

PRODUCTS OFFERED IN MARKET AS A WHOLE

The major offering in Infants essential wear are Body suits, Rompers, Sleeping suit, Front open tee, tee, slips, UGs, Shorts, pyjama, Bibs, booties, mittens, Jhabla, caps, Vest, Body wraps, Beddings, Pyjama with booties.

Garment required to study

Sleeping suit T shirt with full sleeve Bibs Pajama

PRODUCT OFFERING BY BRANDS STUDIED

PRICE RANGE

Analysis of Testing Reports

BIBS Fibre Content of all the Four Brands (Zero, karrot, Mom n Me, Disney)*is 100% cotton except mothercare.

Mothercare has used blend of Cotton-Polyester in two different ratio i.e (80.6% Cotton-19.4% Polyester and 77.2 % Cotton-22.8 % Polyester).

 Varied construction has been used for making the Bibs, Mothercare has used French Terry Disney, Mom n me and karrot has Double jersey Construction while Zero has single jersey construction. Yarn count for cotton in mothercare Bibs are 43 Ne and 20.6 Ne , For disney it is 41.3 Ne, 41.8 Ne and 42.2 Ne, for Zero it is 51.9 Ne, For Karrot it is 50.9 Ne and Mom n me it is 44.4 Ne.

 The wales and courses per inch have considerable variations from brand to brand. All the bibs meet the standards for minimum bursting strength with mothercare having the least bursting strength of 60 psi. Disney bib crosses the limit of Accepted pH value.

Analysis of Testing Reports

Sleeping Suit Fibre Content of all the Five Brands (Zero, Mom n Me, Disney, Zara, Mothercare)* is 100% cotton. The bursting Strength is more than the required minimum strength.[1] All sleeping suits have interlock structure with count varying from 40.5 Ne[2] to 46.3 Ne.[3]

 Density of fabric is similar as wales and courses per inch does not vary much. The GSM of the fabric varies from 172.6[1] to 218.8[2].

The ph according to standards should be acidic but mothercare crosses the limit with the ph of 7.5.

Analysis of Testing Reports

PYJAMAS Cotton dominates the fibre content with 3-4 percent of Elastane and Spandex in Mom n me and Mothercare pyjamas respectively. Type of construction used are Single Jersey nad interlock fabrics. The count for interlock fabrics is 30s , 40s and 50s

 The count for single jersey fabrics are 20s. The variations in wales and courses per inch are quite evident. The lowest GSM being 143.5[1] and highest being 199.7[2] of the same brand. The lead content was detected in Mom n me Pyjama. The pH of the Zero, Mom n me and karrot pyjamas exceeds the limit and fall in alkaline pH.

 T-Shirt The only fiber used in making of T-shirts is 100% Cotton. The two constructions used for knitting are Interlock and Single jersey. Wales and Courses per inch vary considerably from brand to brand.

 The bursting strength meets the standard requirement of 55 psi. Formaldehyde is not detected . Except two pyjamas of mothercare and zero all other pyjamas exceed the limits of standard pH.

Recommendations

FABRIC
PRODUCT T-shirts PROBLEM - Fabric used is mostly 100% cotton, with traces of lycra and spandex in some RECOMMEND ATION - T-shirt with sna p button should be replaced with the one having more neck girth so there is no need of Snap Buttons. - Velcro used in some of the bibs should be upgraded to Satin Velcro. REASON - Extra cloth on one of shoulder makes it difficult for infant to wear it for long time and one of the side is always heavy.[1] - Soft satin Velcro should be used because the hooks in it are very small and Smooth as compared to normal Velcro.

Bibs

- Velcro Should not be used

PRODUCT T-shirts

PROBLEM - One-side Opening at the shoulder with attached snap button is bulky and uneven in thickness.

RECOMMEND ATION - T-shirt with sna p button should be replaced with the one having more neck girth so there is no need of Snap Buttons. - Velcro used in some of the bibs should be upgraded to Satin Velcro.

REASON - Extra cloth on one of shoulder makes it difficult for infant to wear it for long time and one of the side is always heavy.[1] - Soft satin Velcro should be used because the hooks in it are very small and Smooth as compared to normal Velcro.

Bibs

- Velcro Should not be used

PRODUCT Sleeping suit

PROBLEM -Side opening should not be used much.[1]

RECOMMEND ATION -Front opening should be used replacing the side opening.

REASON

- Sleeping Suit meant for children above 1 yr doesnt have grip at feet.

-Ease of Diaper changing and Comfort to a Baby are two important reasons for it.[2] - Rubber grip - Grips are should be given at required above 1 the feet for infant yr because a child above 1 yr. tries to stand from this age and thus need an grip to stand without slipping.[3]

Pyjamas

- All pyjamas does not have enough space to accumalate a diaper comfortably.

- An extra panel should be added at crotch area so that diaper can fit in comfortably.

- Addition of such

Seam Analysis
Seam is defined as the application of series of stitches or stitch type to one or several thickness of material.(BS: 3890) Seam Strength depends on: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Fabric type and weight Thread type and size Stitch and seam construction Stitches per inch Stitch balance

Significance in Infants Garments

Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam, and thread type which should be used for particular assembly, requires through knowledge of many variables. The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security and appearance. All of these parameters are to be taken care of while selecting the proper seams for the garments studied.

Requirements for Infant Essentials

Seam strength is and important factor which has to be taken care of while selecting the seam for the products. Essential wear requires good seam strength as they are daily wear garments and are thoroughly washed. The strength of the seam should depend on the strength of the fabric as it should be less than fabrics bursting strength.

Requirements for Infant Essentials

Elasticity is the most important factor and it has to be taken care due to following reasons: With the growth of baby, its movement starts to get rigorous and rapid. The seam should be such that it provides the maximum elasticity so that no movement of an infant be restricted because of the rigidness in the seam configuration.

Elasticity
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Elasticity of any seam depends on the following factors: Fabric type and strength Seam type Stitch type Thread tension Thread elasticity Elasticity involves two factors, elongation and recovery. Seam elasticity is the degree that a seam recovers to its original length immediately after elongation. If seam does not elongate as much as fabric the thread and stitches usually break.

Elasticity
Highly elastic stitches include 103, 401, 406, 503, 504, 512, 514 and 516. The 504 three thread over-edge stitch provides maximum attainable extendibility.(Carr & Latham)

Security of Seams
Security of the seam is must in infants garment as unravelling may pose threat to their life. Many a times poorly secured seam get tangled in fingers of a baby thus restricting the blood circulation and leading to fatal injuries.

Flexibility
Seam flexibility affects the comfort and abrasion resistance of apparel. Flexible seams allow for more body conformity and movement. Rigid seams can cause body discomfort and irritation. A flexible seam is able to bend, shift and fold without damage to the seam or distortion to the silhouette of the garment.

Type of Seams Recommended for the products studied

BIBS: Bibs are the essential garments which are hung from the neck of the baby. It generally has two ply of fabric which is stitched together. Front part of the bib should be over-locked with 3-thread over-lock, preferably 504. A binding must be given through out edge which should be stitched with chain cover-stitch, 406.

 The satin velcros attached should be stitched with SNLS, 301 and should be rounded in shape.

Sleeping Suit
Sleeping suit is meant to be worn at night but mothers sometimes use it as a body suit to cover their babies. The best sleeping suit is one with minimum seams. Since the fabric used is knitted fabric, seams are done by sergers.

Sleeping Suit
514 for the side seams, shoulder, sleeve and booties attachment and using the multi needle chainstitch i.e. coverstitch for hemmings and sewing the binding all over the raw edges, preferably 406.

BIBS
Fabric : Knit terry, 80% cotton 20% polyester. 100% PEVA (polyethylene vinyl acetate)waterproof sheet should be used

Bibs, an indispensable part of babies' and toddlers' wardrobes, keep the clothing clean when feeding. The best fabrics for bibs are soft, absorbent types, including terrycloth, flannel and medium to heavy cotton. Fabrics used in bibs need to be easy to wash and dry. Shoulder strap should be wide to make it stand on the shoulder.

BIBS
Knit terry cloth is similar to French terry cloth, but French terry cloth can be knit or woven. To make knit terry cloth, interlocking loops of one or more strands of yarn are bound together. That being said, knit terry is otherwise identical in its properties to French terry.

It is soft, stretchy and absorbent.

Typically, it is made of 100 percent cotton. However, it can also be made of bamboo, polyester or linen, or have an element of added stretch with a Lycra or spandex blend.

Reasons for choosing Terry Cloth

Terry cloth is more absorbent than other knitted clothes. It is easy to wash and dry. One of its sides is flat, while the other side is with cross loops. It is either 100% cotton or contains polyester with elastaine (lycra). It is often warp knitted, and the term French Terry is colloquially used for all warp knitted Terry. It is the length of loops that determines how much fluid is absorbed by the cloth as longer loops provide more surface area to absorb and come in contact with the fluid.

Bibs
Trim : Thread: Velcro : Rib 1*1 T 24 Satin , soft hook and loop fastner ( satin velcro).

Sleeping suit
Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose. The booties attached should be made with single jersey fabric -Interlock have an identical appearance on front and rear surface they are double surfaced. -It provides a better heat insulation since there is a layer of air between front and rear surfaces. It keeps warmer compared to other single yarn knitted fabrics.

Sleeping Suit
-Humidity removal property of interlock knitted fabrics is higher since it has a bulk structure. -Along with this, binding on the neck should be given. - Grips on the booties for the size above 1year

Sleeping suit
Trim :
Thread:

Rib 1*1 or interlock for binding

T 24 (for overlock and for flatlock textured monofilament thread

Snap Button:

Mobilon tape:

Nickel free snap fastners from ykk for shoulder support

Pyjama
Fabric : 65-35 cotton viscose blend, Single jersey. Stretch value is highest in single jerseys which is required in pyjamas for infants because of their rigorous movements. Cost effective

Pyjamas
Trim : Thread: Perma Kool T 24 (for overlock and flatlock monofilament thread and for snls z twisted thread) Elastics : Shrink Resistant, BHT free

T-shirts
Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose.

- Interlock have an identical appearance on front and rear surface they are double surfaced.

- Humidity removal property of interlock knitted fabrics is higher since it has a bulk structure. - Binding on the neck should be given.

Pyjama
Fabric : 65-35 cotton viscose blend, Single jersey. Stretch value is highest in single jerseys which is required in pyjamas for infants because of their rigorous movements. Cost effective

Pyjamas
Trim : Thread: Elastics : Perma Kool T 24 Shrink Resistant, BHT free

T-shirts
Fabric : Interlock fabric, 70% cotton 30% viscose. - Interlock have an identical appearance on front and rear surface they are double surfaced. - Humidity removal property of interlock knitted fabrics is higher since it has a bulk structure. - Binding on the neck should be given.

T-shirts
Trim : Thread: Rib 1*1 or interlock for binding Perma Kool T 24 for shoulder support

Mobilon tape:

STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS

Each and every product made in most of the western countries has to comply with the countries laws. Adherence to meet the standards for that particular product is strictly regulated and many recalls of products had been there for the products not meeting the standards or posing any safety hazard.

STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS

In India, there are no such laws made for apparels excluding the few such as size designations for infant and child clothing, Guideliness on care labelling etc. Safety issue is of high importance in infants garment and their have to be some sorts of laws taking care of the subject.

STUDY OF FEDERAL LAWS

In absence of Indian standard we have thoroughly gone through the standards and guidelines by the British Government, CPSC, and have used it as a basis of the Safety/Quality manual developed.

Some laws which are studied are directly related to infants and childrens apparels while some are in general.

THANK YOU