Establishing Contouring Incremental

Growth Between Varied Bust Sizes

Presented by
Riti Mehrotra
B.F Tech (sem-VIII)
Objective
Formulating contouring incremental growth between varied bust sizes

Sub objectives:
Understanding of all contouring principles and its applications
Understanding current practices of contouring in apparel industry

Scope:
The research is done with the help of-
a. dress forms of different sizes,
b. lingerie of various established brands,
c. brassier making-pattern making techniques,
d. secondary research and papers released.

Methodology
Development of prototype samples(halter neck) basis the establishment of
incremental growth and test fitting.
Comparison of finding of all three experiments to achieve contouring increments
growth between adjacent cup sizes
Experimentation
Ex-1: Actual data collection by
measuring contouring
increments from various dress
forms and development of
patterns and test fit
Ex-2: Dismantling the brassier
to calculate the total contouring
increments & bust spread
Ex-3 Drafting patterns from
brassier text books to calculate
total contouring increments &
bust spread
Literature survey
Justification of the topic i.e.
trade stats & fit problems
with contoured garments.
Current practices in apparel
sector for manufacturing
contoured garment.
Understanding the contouring
techniques- Textbook

Fit is appearance probably the most critical issue in a garment for its visual and
functional (Annie Brumbaugh, a New York-based wardrobe stylist who specializes
in personal wardrobe consulting).

According to secondary research, major fitting areas in upper torso are:
Neckline,
Armhole,
Under-bust, and
In-between Bust
Source: http://www.pattythesnugbug.com/2010_08_01_archive.html
http://deofsf.com/category/fitting-issues



Gap in Front Armhole
Excess in neckline,
underarm
Bulge of fabric near under
bust
Major fitting areas in upper torso - Neckline, armhole,
under-bust
Source: http://www.pattythesnugbug.com/2010_08_01_archive.html
Data Collection

A study included a sample of 321 women, ranged in age from 18-35, were asked
about their own style of dressing, and preference for body revealing dresses and
their motivations for choosing this look.
Results showed that 63% of the sample participants reported an inclination to body
fitted dresses in this fashion. They were asked about their intentions in doing so.
The majority of these women, 82.1%, identified a liking for this look as their
primary motive for adopting it. A wish to look attractive was endorsed by 72% of
the women as their second reason.
( Journal of International Womens Studies Vol. 11 #4 May 2010)
http://www.bridgew.edu/soas/jiws/May10/Avigail.pdf




Current Practices in Apparel Sector for Manufacturing
Contoured Garment

Mass marketers have narrowed size ranges and style selection to the most popular
sizes. Most of the designer clothes are sized to fit a woman with a sized B cup. As a
result, most women have never had optimal fit and optimal style from their
wardrobe and always need alterations for a perfect fit.

(Article:Large Breasts and Clothing I ssues, Large Chested Women Need Hollywood Fashion Tape)
http://www.4prom.com/sizandmeas.html

Triumph Survey
Country D C B A
UK 57% 18% 19% 6%
Denmark 50% 19% 24% 7%
Netherlands 36% 27% 29% 8%
Belgium 28% 28% 35% 9%
France 26% 29% 38% 7%
Sweden 24% 30% 33% 14%
Greece 23% 28% 40% 9%
Switzerland 19% 24% 43% 14%
Austria 11% 27% 51% 10%
Italy 10% 21% 68% 1%

Bra maker Triumph conducted a survey in 2007 to determine the percentage
of women wearing four cup size, and found that 57% of British women,
more than any other country, need a D cup.
Source- http:///wiki/Brassiere#Bra_sizes

Average Breast Size
In the U.S., the average bust size is a 36D, a sharp increase from a 36C -- the average size 10
years ago.
Source: Daily News Article; Friday, January 21, 2011
Contour Garments & Principles of Contouring
Contour Garments: Garments which follow the contour of the
body rather than hanging loosely over the hollow areas around
the bust and shoulder blade.



Principle: To fit the contours of the upper torso closer than
does the basic garment, the pattern must be reduced within its
frame to fit the dimensions of the body above, below and in
between the bust mounds and shoulder blades.
(Source: Patternmaking for Fashion Design, Helen Joseph
Armstrong)
Cont.
Deep Neckline Principle-To
eliminate gapping of cut-out
necklines.
Deep Armhole Principle - To
eliminate gapping for designs
with cut-out armholes.
Cont.
Under Bust Principle
To contour style lines under the bust
In Between Bust Principle
To eliminate excess between the bust
Experiment 1
Actual data collection by measuring contouring increments from various
dress forms (size-34 & size-36)
Determining Bust Base
Spread
Locate the bust point
Measure the area where
curve ends
Mark bust base spread

Under Bust Principle
In Between Bust Principle
Deep Neckline Principle
Deep Armhole Principle
Data Collection
Final Outcome of 34 ABC D& 36ABCD
Contouring Principles
Summary of Contouring Incremental
Growth in Adjacent Cup Sizes
Size:36 / Size:34
A to B B to C C to D
Bust Base Spread 3/8 3/8 3/8
Deep Neckline 1/8 1/8 1/8
Deep Armhole 1/8 1/8 1/8
Under Bust 1/8 1/8 1/8
In between Bust 1/4 1/4 1/4
Total contouring
incremental growth
between adjacent cup
sizes
5/8

5/8


5/8

Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement in the following
contouring principles:

Data
Collection

Data Collection





Dismantling the brassier to calculate the total contouring increments & bust
spread:



Experiment 2
Total Dart Intake Bust Base Spread
Data Collection
Size- 34 Size-36
A B C A B C
Bust Base Spread
(brassieres)
3 3 3/8 3 3/4 3 1/8 3 5/8 4
Bust Base Spread
(Actual Readings)
3 3 3/8 3 3/4 3 1/8 3 1/2 3 7/8
Difference
(brassiere - Actual)
0 0 0 0 0 0
Total Contouring
Increments
(brassieres)
2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4 2 3/4 3 3/8 4
Total Contouring
Increments (Actual
Readings)
2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4 2 3/4 3 3/8 4
Difference
(brassiere - Actual)
0 0 0 0 0 0
Comparison Between Experiment 1 & Experiment 2
Drafting patterns from brassier text books to calculate total contouring
increments & bust spread


Experiment 3
Cont.
Data Collection
Comparison Between Experiment 1 & Experiment 3

Size- 34 Size-36
A B C A B C
Bust Base Spread
(pattern)
3 3 3/8 3 3/4 3 1/8 3 1/2 3 7/8
Bust Base Spread
(Actual Readings)
3 3 3/8 3 3/4 3 1/8 3 1/2 3 7/8
Difference (pattern -
Actual)
0 0 0 0 0 0
Total Contouring
Increments (pattern)
2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4 2 3/4 3 3/8 3 7/8
Total Contouring
Increments (Actual
Readings)
2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4 2 3/4 3 3/8 4
Difference (pattern -
Actual)
0 0 0 0 0 -1/8

Total Contouring Increments (size-34)
Experiments A B C
1 2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4
2 2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4
3 2 1/2 31/8 3 3/4
Total Contouring Increments (size-36)
Experiments A B C
1 2 3/4 3 3/8 4
2 2 3/4 3 3/8 4
3 2 3/4 3 3/8 3 7/8
Analysis
Individual Contouring Incremental Growth Between
Adjacent Cup Sizes
Contouring
Principles
A to B B to C C to D
Deep Neckline +1/8 +1/8 +1/8
Deep Armhole +1/8 +1/8 +1/8
Under Bust +1/8 +1/8 +1/8
In between Bust +1/4 +1/4 +1/4
Total Contouring
Increments
+5/8 +5/8

+5/8

Between Bust Base Spread Growth Between Adjacent
Cup Sizes
Experiments A to B B to C C to D
1 +3/8 +3/8 +3/8
2 +3/8 +3/8 +3/8
3 +3/8 +3/8 +3/8
Total incremental growth
between bust spread is 3/8 &
total contouring incremental
growth is 5/8 between
adjacent cup size
Prototype Development
Garments for size 38 A, B, C and D were made and its fit was checked to
prove the earlier analysis:
Data Collection

Data Collection
Perfect Fit- when worn correct garment on correct size:

Incremental Growth
Deep Neckline
+1/8
Deep Armhole
+1/8
Under Bust
+1/8
In between Bust

+1/4
Bust Base Spread
+3/8
Incremental Growth Between Adjacent Cup Sizes:
Thank You
Outcome
Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement in the following
contouring principles:
Contouring
Principles
Contouring Increments
Size- 34
A Increment
(A to B)
B Increment
(B to C)

C Increment
(C to D)
D
Bust Base Spread 3 3/8 3 3/8 3/8 3 3/4 3/8 4 1/8
Deep Neckline 3/8 1/8 1/2 1/8 5/8 1/8 3/4
Deep Armhole 1/2 1/8 5/8 1/8 3/4 1/8 7/8
Under Bust 3/4 1/8 7/8 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8
In between Bust 7/8 1/4 1 1/8 1/4 1 3/8 1/4 1 5/8
Total Contouring
Increments (Actual
Readings) 2 1/2 5/8


3 1/8


5/8

3 3/4

5/8
4 3/8
Data Collection
Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement in the following
contouring principles:
Contouring
Principles
Contouring Increments
Size- 36
A Increment
(A to B)
B Increment
(B to C)

C Increment
(C to D)
D
Bust Base Spread 3 1/8 3/8 3 1/2 3/8 3 7/8 3/8 4 1/4
Deep Neckline 3/8 1/8 1/2 1/8 5/8 1/8 3/4
Deep Armhole 5/8 1/8 3/4 1/8 7/8 1/8 1
Under Bust 3/4 1/8 7/8 1/8 1 1/8 1 1/8
In between Bust 1 1/4 1 1/4 1/4 1 1/2 1/4 1 3/4
Total Contouring
Increments
(Actual
Readings)
2 3/4 5/8

3 3/8

5/8 4 5/8 4 5/8
Outcome
Data Collection
Outcome

Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement by dismantling
the brassieres of size 34 & size 36

Size- 34
A B C
Bust Base
Spread
(brassiere)
3 1/8 3 1/2 3 7/8
Total Dart
Intake
(brassiere)
4 1/2 5 1/4 6
Total Dart
Intake(basic
bodice)
2 2 1/8 2 1/4
Total
Contouring
Increments
2 1/2 3 1/8 3 3/4
Size- 36
A B C
Bust Base
Spread
(brassiere)
3 1/4 3 5/8 4
Total Dart
Intake
(brassiere)
4 3/4 5 1/2 6 1/4
Total Dart
Intake (basic
bodice)
2 1/8 2 1/4 2 3/8
Total
Contouring
Increments
2 5/8 3 1/4 3 7/8
Data Collection
Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement by drafting
patterns from brassier text books
Size- 34
A B C
Bust Base Spread 3 3 3/8 3 3/4
Total Contouring
Increments
2 1/2 31/8 3 3/4
Size- 36
A B C
Bust Base Spread 3 1/8 3 1/2 3 7/8
Total Contouring
Increments
2 3/4 3 3/8 3 7/8
Outcome
Data
Collection
Contouring increments & bust base spread measurement for the projected
sizes in the following contouring principles :
Contouring
Principles
Contouring Increments
Size- 38
A B C
Bust Base Spread 3 2/8 3 5/8 4
Deep Neckline 3/8 1/2 5/8
Deep Armhole 3/4 7/8 1
Under Bust 3/4 7/8 1
In between Bust 1 1/8 1 3/8 1 5/8
Contouring
Principles
Contouring Increments
Size- 32
A B C
Bust Base Spread 2 7/8 3 1/4 3 5/8
Deep Neckline 3/8 1/2 5/8
Deep Armhole 3/8 1/2 5/8
Under Bust 3/4 7/8 1
In between Bust 3/4 1 1 1/4 Data Collection
Fitting Problems with Contoured Garment

Data Collection
Pull marks near bust area when smaller size
garment is worn by bigger cup size
Bulge of fabric when bigger size
garment is worn by smaller bust size
Bulge of fabric when bigger size garment is
worn by smaller bust size
Fitting Problems with Contoured Garment
(Cont.)

Data Collection